Well done National Council (NSPCA)

Hi everyone. I received this letter from Louise Bennet with regards to the banning of fireworks! All I can say is hear hear and agree with her sentiments wholeheartedly - and think we should all be far more pro active in reporting unlicensed dealers, and users! We can make a difference!

Louise from Paws Abilities

 

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Morning all

 

Firstly, thank you Marcelle (from NSPCA) for your letters to the newspaper – they obviously felt them worthwhile as they printed them in every newspaper.

 

Folks, in case you didn’t see them, Marcelle’s letter highlighted another growing deadly menace i.e. the panic-stricken animals run into the road trying to escape the fireworks, thus causing accidents.

 

I quote from Marcelle’s letter:  “In Australia, the sale of fireworks to the man in the street is banned, as it should be here.  To cater for certain religious beliefs, only the sale of non lethal and pretty fireworks should be allowed.  I call on our municipality to act and keep the promises that the use of these ghastly bombs be stopped.  So far nothing has happened”

 

It would be most appreciated if we, as a body, write in and, especially if you have contacts in the Arrive Alive section, please contact them and let us know their reaction.  I will then forward to everyone.

 

Many thanks

Louise Bennett

 

 

NSPCA NEWSLETTER

RESEARCH ETHICS UNIT

The N SPCA actively encourages the development of alternative techniques for research and teaching purposes - ones that do not involve live animals! We strongly support the role of institutional Animal Ethics Committees which have both scientific and independent members to ensure that any use of animals is justified and provides for the welfare of those animals. Of paramount importance are the principles of Replacement, Reduction and Refinement (the 3Rs).

All research or teaching using live animals must be carried out in accordance with the South African National Standard for the Care and Use of Animals for Scientific Purposes. This requires a proposal to be assessed and endorsed by an Animal Ethics Committee. The N SPCA is currently represented on 36 Animal Ethics Committees or institutional bodies nationally. 117 Animal Ethics Committee meetings have been scheduled for 2010 to be attended by the N SPCA Research Ethics representatives. It will be a busy year!

 

WILDLIFE UNIT

Threatened or Protected Species Regulations and Captive Lions

Following the unsuccessful court action by the SA Predator Breeders Association against the Minister in 2009, the Department of Environmental Affairs stated that it would focus on achieving the original intention of listing lions as large predators subject to the Threatened or Protected Species Regulations. On 12 January 2010 the Supreme Court of Appeal agreed to hear the appeal by the SA Predator Breeders Association on hunting captive-bred lions in South Africa. A Supreme Court of Appeal official has indicated that the matter could be heard in September or November 2010. Further delays before regulations relating to lions are implemented are therefore anticipated and the fate of more than 3 500 lions in captivity continues to hang in the balance.

The Threatened or Protected Species Regulations initially stipulated that lions raised in captivity must be allowed to range free for two years before being hunted. The SA Predator Breeders Association argues that the clauses concerning lions would make it impossible for predator breeders to make a living and said that this would also have a negative impact on employment in some rural areas and deprive the local economies of significant revenue brought into the country by foreign hunters. The Wildlife Unit will continue in discussions with the Department of Environmental Affairs on this issue.

 

GUARDIANS OF WILDLIFE

The Wildlife Unit has been active in preparing "inspection and care" guidelines for use by SPCAs around the country. These documents will serve as working tools to assist the inspectors in assessing the welfare of various species of wildlife being held in captivity.

The SPCA movement is committed to the protection of all animals and this includes wildlife. Equipping inspectors with knowledge and the confidence to handle wildlife issues in their respective areas is a necessary part of the Wildlife Unit's functioning. It is important to monitor situations within the wildlife industry that may affect the welfare of our country's wild animals, offer advice, and step in if there is exploitation, suffering or cruelty.

Nature will bear the closest inspection. She invites us to lay our eye level with her smallest leaf, and take an insect view of its plain.
~Henry David Thoreau

WORKSHOP ATTENDED

Inspectors from the Equine and Farm Animal Units attended a "Hoof-care for Donkeys" workshop at the Ondesterpoort Faculty of Veterinary Science on 15 and 16 January. The workshop was sponsored and presented by The Donkey Sanctuary. A farrier from Mexico was present and he gave practical demonstrations before participants were taken to a local township where they were able to assist local animals by practising (under supervision) their new found skills.

The N SPCA inspectors will utilise these skills in the many outreach and community projects involving equine which are conducted throughout the country. During these projects the N SPCA donates new harnessing and bridles to the owners of donkeys. Old tack is always replaced to prevent these old and potentially harmful items from being used on donkeys or horses again.

 

EDUCATION DEPARTMENT

The education department has developed and presented two workshops to SPCA animal welfare educators on how to teach interactively. The workshops were well received.

The education department has additional portfolios which include the monitoring and evaluation of welfare standards for pigeon racing, accepting former SAPS dogs for rehoming through individual SPCAs, assessing applications for Performing Animals Protection Act licences relating to the use of dogs for safeguarding as well as monitoring and evaluating field dog trials and providing ethology guidance to SPCAs.

 

PIGEON RACING

Inspection of national lofts is in progress as well as monitoring a long distance race from Gariep Dam which starts on Saturday. Reasons why pigeon racing is a concern are illustrated below in an article from a " bird fancy" website written by racing pigeon "expert", Mr J Barkel.

"There are several tricks that are used to increase the urge to return home during these periods. When the pair have been sitting about fourteen plus days and no sign of hatching, you can hole out one end of an egg, and insert a live cricket or something similar, (jumping beans have been used) and seal the end. The parents will feel the movement and presume that the baby pigeon is about to hatch, this can produce a fast return home, for the bird has a retentive memory. If the eggs are chipping and you have babies hatched elsewhere in the loft, you can borrow that baby and slip it under the pigeon to go to the race about a half an hour before you basket. This will also bring results for a quick return".

So even parental emotions and instincts are not exempt from manipulation and exploitation by those who advocate that the only way is the winning way!

 

SANLAM TELEVISION ADVERTISEMENT

Complaints continue to be received regarding a television advertisement for Sanlam featuring an elephant. Concerns include how elephants are trained and also that it is inappropriate to touch/handle elephants or "tame" them as tourist attractions.

We agree. Contact has been made with Sanlam who were sympathetic to these issues.

 

It would add support if individuals contacted Sanlam directly too. This would add weight and convince the company that members of the public (and not just the N SPCA) felt this way.

www.sanlam.co.za carries contact details. Please note that the advertisement does not breach the Advertising Standards Authority Code. The footage was taken by a staff member of Sanlam whilst on holiday in the far east. That is, filmed in a documentary manner and outside our country.

 

HAITI

The N SPCA is a member of the World Society for the Protection of Animals (WSPA). This organisation is mindful that the earthquake tragedy in Haiti has impacted on animals as well as people. Please go to www.wspa-international.org for an overview of the "disaster liaison team" being sent to assist and for daily updates on the situation.

Until next time

With best regards

Chris Kuch

9 Tips to Help Your Older Dog Live Longer!

Hi Everyone,

Received this useful piece of common sense and thought I would pass it on.

 

Your dog may live between ten and fifteen years depending in part on the breed, with an average of twelve years longevity. Aging is a natural process and results in changes in your dog's metabolism, hormone balance, and sensory perception.

A dog is considered to be a senior at the age of seven or eight. Your aging dog will sleep more and experience degeneration of his body systems and internal organs. Expect him, as he gets older, to have less tolerance of extremes in heat or cold, decreased immunity to disease and infection, and a decline in his metabolism. Older dogs may lose their vision
and hearing.

So as you can clearly see, it takes a lot of attention and care when your family pet reaches his golden years. Below are 9 tips that will help you and your dog adjust to old age:

1. Because the older dog is generally less active, he requires fewer calories. If you have children in the house, make certain that they understand that your family dog is elderly and requires more careful and sensitive handling.

2. As your dog grows older, have your veterinarian run appropriate tests to detect any illness or degenerative condition early so he can be treated. Pay attention to any changes in your dog's habits, behavior, or appearance and report them to your veterinarian.

3. Learn the symptoms of some of the more common problems that afflict the older dog, such as diabetes, kidney and thyroid problems, and heart conditions. If you notice any symptoms, contact your veterinarian right away.

4. Discuss with your veterinarian feeding your geriatric dog a diet formulated specifically for the needs of older animals.

5. As your dog ages, look for signs of dental problems. Clean your dog's teeth regularly and have your veterinarian professionally clean them when necessary.

6. Pets become more creatures of habit as they age. If you are planning any environmental changes, do so gradually and pay special attention to your dog's needs to minimize any stress he experiences.

7. When you groom your geriatric dog, look for lumps and bumps under the skin and report them to your veterinarian.

8. Engage your older dog in moderate play to promote muscle tone, increase circulation, and aid digestion.

9. Have your dog leashed when he is outside to keep him safe and help him live longer.

 

 

Until Next Time,

 

Lou

 

 

WHAT to do if your pet has eaten any toxic foods

Found this useful advice – whilst surfing the other night – thought I would share it with you. Any veterinary input would be welcome!

 

TO YOUR VETERINARIAN. If your pet is showing signs of ingesting a poison, it is important that your veterinarian examines her and treated appropriately. Some toxins can progress and lead to severe seizures. If you suspect antifreeze poisoning, it must be treated within 4-6 hours, before irreversible kidney damage occurs.

 

PURGE THE POISON. In most cases of poisoning, getting your pet to vomit is the most important thing that you can do.

 

DO NOT INDUCE VOMITING if something caustic has been consumed (such as drain cleaner or bleach).

 

To induce vomiting, give hydrogen peroxide at 1 teaspoon per 10 lbs of body weight. If your pet doesn't vomit in 10 minutes, repeat again. NEVER do more than 2 treatments of peroxide. You can also try salt: dilute 1 teaspoon of salt in a tablespoon of water per every 10lbs of body weight.

 

NEUTRALIZE THE TOXIN. If a caustic substance has been ingested, DO NOT INDUCE VOMITING, rather give something to neutralize it. An alkaline toxin such as drain cleaner is neutralized by something acidic such as vinegar: give 1 tsp per 10 lbs of body weight. An acidic toxin, such as battery acid, is best neutralized with something alkaline such as Milk of Magnesia: give 1 tsp per 10lbs of body weight.

 

DELAY ABSORPTION. Activated charcoal is readily available at most pharmacies. It delays absorption of any toxin by binding to the toxic compound in the stomach. The easiest way is to give the capsule form. For those garbage-eating dogs (such as my own dog) it is a good idea to have hydrogen peroxide and activated charcoal always on hand.

 

TOPICAL TOXINS. If your pet is having a reaction to something on the skin, such as flea medications, or oil on the skin, then you want to remove it as soon as possible. Dish soap works well - lather  it up, then rinse your pet thoroughly. Thick tarry substances that you can't wash off can be first covered in flour, as the flour absorbs some of the oil, then washed off with dish soap.

 

PREVENTION. Ensure medications are always out of mouth's reach.

Become familiar with toxic plants (visit http://www.aspca.org/toxicplants for a complete list) and remove those from your house, if your pet is a plant-eater.

 

ALSO.  Remember to keep your compost covered.

 

 

Clicker Tips

Would non-human animals ever do something like that? KPA graduate and Certified Training Partner Dan De La Rosa asked me, “Can a punisher also be a reinforcer?”

Dan says that Shutzhund working dogs take stick hits from the target person they are attacking, and come back fighting for more. It seems that they do not see the stick hits as punishment. Some world-class trainers describe these dogs as adrenalin addicts.

Choose your words carefully

The short answer to Dan's question: don’t equate an aversive stimulus with a punishment. A punishment, technically, is anything that shortens or stops a behavior. If someone hit you or me with a stick, we might do less of whatever we did that triggered an adversary to strike at us; however, a fighter might do more. I shrink at the very thought of swimming in freezing water; Karl jumps in, once a year.

Don’t equate an aversive stimulus with a punishment.

An aversive stimulus is not necessarily punishing, it depends on circumstances and on the recipient. Rain is punishing to cats, who might respond by going inside, reinforcing to ducks, who might respond by going outside, and a matter of indifference to cows, who stay where they are. And circumstances can change one’s view of what’s punishing. We primates generally seek shelter in a downpour, but Gene Kelly, having just fallen in love, famously sang and danced in the rain.

We need to separate the “thing”—the cookie or the stick or the click or the cold water or whatever—from its outcome. What defines its function is not what it looks like to common sense, but how it changes the behavior. If that stick doesn't slow the dog down, then no matter how scary it looks to us, it's not functioning as a punisher.

It’s the same with reinforcers. If the dog won't take the treat, no matter how delicious it looks to us, then in that situation the treat is not a reinforcer. I see people petting dogs effusively, under the assumption that they are giving the dog pleasure. If you look at the dog, though, it’s showing an eye white or ducking away from the pat or shaking off the unwanted contact. At that moment, with that dog, your effusiveness is definitely not a positive experience.

Technically, a reward or a punisher has no specific definition; it’s just anything we’ve chosen that we think our learner might like or might avoid. Only the individual doing the behavior can truly tell what sort of “postcedent” or subsequent event any particular item might be.

The behaviors of seeking apparent aversives or avoiding apparent rewards illustrate the often-misunderstood subtleties of B.F. Skinner’s thinking. His vocabulary deals with processes and outcomes, not with specific items or events.

Technically, a reward or a punisher has no specific definition; it’s just anything we’ve chosen that we think our learner might like or might avoid.

Find out more

Want to delve deeper? I recommend a new textbook, Behavior Analysis for Effective Teaching, by Julie Skinner Vargas. It’s the best explication I’ve ever read of operant conditioning. It goes back to Skinner’s first discoveries. It goes forward to modern training by integrating throughout the text the uses and functions of secondary reinforcers as used in clicker training and TAGteaching (technologies that previous behavior analysis textbooks either get wrong or ignore). The book is aimed at grade school teachers, but it serves any of us who teach anyone or anything. It is a college textbook—long, complex, expensive—but worth having on your shelf and dipping into often. There’s enlightenment on every page.

Happy clicking,

 

Dog or Bitch - which to choose?

Male Or Female: Which Dog Is Better?

Which dog makes a better pet, a male dog or a female? The answer to this question depends on what you're looking for. On one level, if you care about the personality and character of the dog more than anything else, the gender shouldn't matter. Your decision will be based mainly on how the puppy behaves and acts towards you and other people when you are looking at the litter.

On another level, if you want to find out whether a male dog or a female dog would generally make an overall better pet, then you'll have to take in other factors, such as the size, temperament, and level of care.

Choosing A Female Dog

Generally speaking, female dogs are relatively smaller in size and warmer in temperaments. There are, however, some male dogs that are just as affectionate as female dogs. Many dog trainers and breeders recommend a female dog to homes with small children. Some believe that there is some type of maternal instinct that exists in female dogs, a quality that makes them amiable and ideal for a household with children.

Do not let feminine problems such as heat cycles and bleeding steer you away from getting a female dog. If you are worried that she will bleed all over your house when that time comes, consider getting her spayed, which is the ideal thing to do anyway. Once spayed, rest assured that she will not bleed a single drop. And with regards to behavior, female dogs can be just as challenging as male dogs, sometimes even more so.

Choosing A Male Dog

Male dogs are a bit more difficult to care for at times than females. For instance, they are quite good at performing a disappearing act when a nearby female dog is in heat. This can be dangerous to the dog as well as create problems for you. Many male dogs have been injured or even killed when escaping their homes to search for a female in heat. Between moving vehicles and fights with other male dogs, it makes sense to also have male dogs fixed.

Male dogs are also very territorial over their property, including any of his "stuff" inside the house, his bathroom area, or even a female dog. He tends to get very aggressive when he thinks that his property is being taken over by another dog and is willing to fight to defend it.

Male dogs also display territorial urination by lifting its leg up as high as possible while urinating. This leg-lifting behavior is not a problem unless it occurs inside the house.

On the other hand, male dogs have tons of energy and a lot of fun to play with. They are more active and have better endurance than female dogs. This is probably why male dogs are usually chosen for jobs in law enforcement.

 

 

NSPCA Newsletter

E-NEWSLETTER

13 JANUARY 2010

WILDLIFE UNIT

The Draft Norms and Standards for the Regulation of the Hunting Industry in South Africa (published in terms of the National Environmental Management: Biodiversity Act, 2004 (Act 10 of 2005) were circulated for public comment by the Department of Environmental Affairs. The Wildlife Unit has provided welfare input into these Norms and Standards as with other pieces of legislation promulgated by the Department of Environmental Affairs. This is an important part of the Unit's functioning because of the long-term impact this has on the welfare of animals.

 

WARNING - INTERNET TRADE IN ANIMALS

The N SPCA continues to receive calls from individuals who have responded to advertisements for animals on various web sites. These may involve the offer of a free animal or the sale of animals (including wildlife) at a ludicrously low price. Once an individual is in communication with the people who placed the advertisement, "unexpected expenses" suddenly appear such as customs duties, transport fees or whatever the latest excuse may be. The animals do not exist.

 

Interpol is aware of the scam and has advised us that the people involved are dangerous and have not as yet been traced. Their advertisements vary and tend to move from web site to web site.

 

The N SPCA finds it difficult to understand how anyone would order a pet over the Internet. Surely when adopting an animal, you would want to meet it, check the conditions where it was born etc. The official policy of the SPCA movement in South Africa is to oppose the trade of animals on the Internet - for good reason.

 

Please be warned for the animals' sake and also to take away the opportunities currently being taken advantage of by exploiters.

 

FAROESE WHALE HUNT/S

The N SPCA continues to receive mails regarding the Faroese pilot whale hunts. The number of whales being killed has reduced over the last decade and between August 2007 and January 2009 no hunts took place at all. But the hunts have not stopped.

 

The N SPCA is a member of the World Society for the Protection of Animals (WSPA) and we have given formal support to WSPA for a meeting with the Faroese authorities noting however that Faroese people are resistant to being told what to do by foreigners. The meeting would be between welfare organisations and the Faroese home rule government to explain to them the volume of letters and emails received on this subject, including many people who have said they would like to go on holiday there but chose not to because of the risk of seeing a hunt. Please note that this issue is ongoing and long-term.

 

JUST FOR INTEREST

The name Bernice Dyer may be familiar to you as the Chairman of the SPCA in Zimbabwe. She has now moved to South Africa and is the Society Liaison Unit's Manager at the N SPCA.

 

She's also an amateur archaeology sleuth and her most recent find is a lead dog tag dated 1899 (badge number 1313) with the old coat of arms and "Municipality Port Elizabeth" on it. The dog tag was found in the dunes in Port Elizabeth. There's a moral here too. We continue to promote identification and here is evidence that back in the 18^th century Port Elizabeth's residents were already doing just that!

SUGGESTION
Please remember that lemons make lemonade! Unwanted or unsuitable Christmas gifts can be sold or raffled by your local SPCA to raise valuable funds to help animals.

When clearing out items such as toys, clothing, household goods, CDs, gardening tools (even plants and seedlings), please don't forget your local SPCA. These items can be turned into useful income.

 

Just imagine ~ if everyone donated a single carrier bag of goods, what a difference it would make. My fussy pets turned up their spoilt noses at their pre-packaged Christmas "treats" so guess who is going to benefit from these items?

Until next time

With kind regards

Chris Kuch

 

BITCHES AGAINST BREEDING

After reading the press about the West Rand SPCA dumping dog and cat bodies at the council rubbish dump and hearing that so many people were “outraged” at this practice – realised just how naive some the public can be.

 

There is no way that any individual SPCA could waste finance on costly cremation – their merge funds should be using for the living, on prevention of suffering and cruelty. Due to the costs involved, cremation is a luxury that is reserved for much loved family pets, and even then, the choice is usually given to the owner by the practising veterinarian.

 

When a pet is euthanized by a veterinarian, if the owner does not specify what to do with the body – where do you think it goes – I am sure that most vets could not bear the brunt of the cremation cost???

 

With their limited funds, what are the SPCA supposed to do with the bodies of euthanized animals?

Who does the public think is going to pay for it???

 

Of course it was the council’s fault for not preparing the site correctly, nor covering up the bodies immediately, and I certainly agree that it is a sad and tragic end for most unwanted pets – but where does the blame really lie? Read the article I wrote below, and then think again!

 

BITCHES GAINST BREEDING

A few years ago a group of girlfriends and I started a little group. We called it BAB which stands for Bitches (that’s us), Against Breeding! We are not a registered group or anything formal, however if and when, we come across a genuine case of a pet owner who needs help, we have a little slush fund that we use.

 

Our main aim is of course, to discourage all breeding via owner education and if and where possible to strongly encourage and help (where we can) impoverished owners to have their dogs sterilised.

 

Now of course, we can’t really make a huge difference, (not even a drop in the ocean in the flood of dog “production”) and we certainly don’t make any claims to fame or saving the world! However, for every bitch or dog sterilised, that is a whole lot of offspring that are also prevented from continuing the cycle of production!

 

I once read (somewhere) that one bitch and one dog could over a period of several  years be responsible for the creation of over 1000 pups, which of course also breed every six months, all the while whilst the original pair continues to add to the numbers twice a year!                                                     

This is an extremely frightening thought.

 

 (Please if some maths genius could work it out for me I would be delighted – need approximate figures of one bitch and one dog & their offspring if all breed twice a year – average litter ½ dogs & ½ bitches to make the numbers easier I think it is a compound number as one has to take into account the original pair who continue to add numbers each year)

 

THE CRUEL FACT IN SOUTH AFRICA IS THAT THERE ARE JUST TOO MANY DOGS!

This is the harsh, cruel, cold reality.  Too many people are irresponsible and permit their dogs to reproduce, too often and with too many dogs! That is not counting the millions of pets bred for profit by unscrupulous dealers, puppy farmers and others for the “pet – trade”!

 

Now I am beginning to sound rather anal retentive, which I am sure I am. However most people don’t think twice about letting their dogs reproduce – nor do they seem to understand the implications regarding WHERE THEY OPTAIN A PUP!  They just don’t seem to get it!

 

The N SPCA prohibit the individual societies from publishing the numbers of pets euthanized  annually, however, it does not take rocket science to realise the numbers must be huge!  This is not the fault of the SPCA – what else are they to do when their kennels are overflowing at the seams.  Too many dogs and not enough homes!           

When the kennels are full, what are they supposed to do??? They certainly do some outstanding work in their attempts to re-home suitable dogs – but I REPEAT – THERE ARE TOO MANY DOGS AND NOT ENOUGH SUITABLE HOMES!

 

Whose fault is it then you might ask? Who is to blame for the annual mass slaughter of unwanted dogs?

 

 If you have let your bitch have a litter – then it is YOUR FAULT! If you have been irresponsible in purchasing a puppy from dubious sources (unintentionally promoting puppy farms – hey - where do you think most pet shops get their “stock”) it is YOUR FAULT.

 

If you have bought a puppy from a flea market, or the side of the road, through a Junk Mail type publication – THEN THE NUMBERS OF DOGS IN THE SPCA BEING HUMAINLY KILLLED EVERY WEEK IS YOUR FAULT.

 

Most people don’t give a second thought when looking for a cute puppy.

 

HOW MUCH IS THAT DOGGIE IN THE WINDOW – the cost of that “cute” puppy that you purchase from the pet shop often comes at a huge MORAL AND ETHICAL price to the mother of the “cute” pup. It is time that you spare a thought for her!

 

Even registered breeders have recently come under the spotlight.  An ethical breeder is supposed to breed for the benefit of the breed! I can count on one hand the amount of “ethical” breeders I have met in my lifetime.

 

There are many Kennel Union “Registered Dogs” not only kept in appalling conditions but also often kept for all the “wrong” reasons, including being a baby making machine, or just kept to win prizes to salve their human owners egos! Now the Kennel Union is merely a registration authority – not the puppy police!

 

Personally I will NEVER AGAIN buy a puppy from any breeder or anywhere else! Not whilst there are dogs being humanely killed because of neglect and abuse – whether intentional or not! I will not buy a puppy whilst such huge numbers are being killed every single day, due to human greed. Not whilst the shelters, foster homes, and registered animal humane society kennels are FULL! It’s time for us to open our eyes and face the truth!

 

If you MUST buy a puppy at least have the good sense and morals not to support disreputable breeder.

If we don’t buy from them, we will put them OUT OF BUSINESS!

 

WHERE TO LOOK FOR A “GOOD” PUPPY?                                                                                                                        

This is a very tough question.  The most logical answer is to find a “reputable breeder”.  On paper, this seems easy enough – a quick phone call to the Kennel Union of Southern Africa in Cape Town will provide you with a list of individuals who breed pure bred, registered dogs.  However, as “breeders” are they all likely to be “reputable”? 

 

        WHAT IS A “REPUTABLE” DOG BREEDER?

·         A reputable dog breeder breeds dogs for the betterment of the breed, not to make a fast buck! He does NOT breed a litter and then look for homes for his puppies.  He will have a waiting list of prospective (screened) owners BEFORE he even considers mating / breeding a litter.

·         Most reputable breeders concentrate on one breed of dog only.

·         A reputable breeder will not rush you into making a choice, nor will he pressure you to buy a puppy, nor would he ever permit you to take two puppies at the same time! It is a virtually impossible task to bring up two puppies from the same litter (or two pups of the same age from different litters) in one household.  When you have two puppies of similar ages in the same household, the future inter-canine relationship usually ends up with one puppy being a “bully” and the other puppy being a “victim”!    

·         A reputable breeder will let you view and interact with both the dam (mother) and sire (father) of the puppies at their own establishment.  He WOULD NOT meet you at the garage on the side of the highway and tell you that the parents are just lovely!

·         If the breeder says that you cannot have contact with either the dam or the sire,  BEWARE! If he says that either the sire or the dam is vicious, shy or nervous – get in your car and leave!  At least 65% of a puppy’s character and general nature is inherited from his parents! This means that if the “cute” puppy that you are viewing has a “nasty”, “vicious”, or “nervous” Mom or Dad, you could end up with a whole heap of trouble as the “cute” puppy grows to fill his parents’ shoes!

·         A reputable breeder does not advertise in “Junk Mail” type publications, nor does he have any need to advertise in the local newspaper.  He will already have a good reputation, and people like your local vet, dog trainer, behaviourist, or dog-grooming parlour will be able to refer you to him.

·         A reputable breeder should be able to give you valuable insight and information regarding history and actual genetics/breeding.  In other words, he should be knowledgeable about his breed, its background, characteristics and specific behaviour traits.  He should also have knowledge about the specific breed’s genetic faults and behavioural needs.

·         A reputable breeder will be able to give you contact addresses of pups that he has bred in the past and actively encourage you to interact with their owners.

·         A reputable breeder will also have lifetime contact with the animals that he has bred in the past.

·         When looking for an ideal family dog you should preferably look for a breeder who has the litter born and brought up - at least partly, inside the house.  This is so that you know that, from an early age, the puppies are used to the various sounds and “goings on” in the home, producing a more confident, well-adjusted, socialised puppy.  If you have children, then look at the behaviour of the breeder’s children!  If they are obnoxious brats – leave! If the breeder cannot control their children, the odds are that the kids will have teased the puppies and the dogs and they could well end up as highly-strung or nervous individuals due to these early poor interactions developing a fear response to all children – often resulting in fear aggression!

·         A good breeder keeps the dog’s environment, garden, and whelping area clean and free from any flies or other health hazards.  All the dogs on the premises should be in good physical condition, have clean coats, and be free of parasites (both visual, such as fleas and ticks, and internal such as worms).  Often dogs with worms have rough coats, in poor condition.  When looking for a puppy, if the premises of the breeder do not meet with your standards – leave!

 

WHERE NOT TO PURCHASE A PUPPY

·         From a flea market or pet shop.  Many of these puppies are bred by unscrupulous “Puppy Farmers” who sell them to dealers who, in turn, unload onto the unsuspecting, gullible public!

·         From the side of the road. These dealers often buy from “Mills” or puppy farms. Unscrupulous “Puppy Farmers” often keep random bred dogs and purebred dogs. They often allow the dogs to inter-breed producing “mongrels”.   

·         The Puppy Farmers’ breeding stock is often kept in appalling conditions. Filthy cages with little or no shelter, and little food. Many deny even basic veterinary care and most of these pups are sickly, small and unhealthy.

·         Most of the bitches kept by “Puppy Farmers” are bred with every time they come into “season”, thus producing as many puppies as possible in order for the puppy farmer to make the most amount of money with the least input!

·         Many pet shops and flea markets are getting bad reputations as many of the puppies sold by them come from dubious sources.

 

WHY NOT GIVE THE “POOR” PUPPY A HOME?

It is natural to want to give a puppy a home because you feel sorry for it, especially if you know it has had a “bad” beginning. Our human maternal and paternal instincts want to nurture and protect.

 

However, by purchasing a puppy that has originated from a puppy farmer, you as an individual would be actively encouraging and supporting these unscrupulous parasites of society and helping them to make money.

 

I personally consider it “DIRTY MONEY” and believe that stricter regulations should be implemented to protect both the animals and the public. Until then, it is the public who, through education and common sense, should actively be encouraged to put them out of business!

 

THERE IS ONLY ONE SURE WAY TO DO THIS, DO NOT buy puppies from dubious sources!

 

When purchasing a puppy from dubious sources, there is no way of knowing the puppy’s’ background or early influences. Therefore, behaviourally, they might not be “sound”. You could be looking at serious future behavioural problems, from fear and anxiety to aggression.

 

As most of the puppies are not inoculated, they often spread disease. Some of these pups are reported to be sold drugged! Many of them are sickly and there have been numerous reports of puppies dying after being with a new family for only a few days. This is heartbreaking for both the children and Mom and Dad. Some dealers will actually give you another puppy (rarely cash) if the one dies within a certain period of time - and this is stated in a purchase agreement!  How confident are they of their stock??????

 

Many of these puppies are bred from behaviourally “unsound” parents.  As the pup will inherit at least 65% of his parents’ character, what you see is not necessarily what you get! 

 

A large percentage of pups from these dealers end up as unsuitable pets suffering from various behavioural problems.

 

Most are breed rejects - dogs that would not be accepted by the respectable dog breeding fraternity and do not conform to registered breed standards.  They are at risk of having inherited genetic health problems such as hip displacia, eye and ear problems and various other genetic based diseases. Most of these pups are unregistered with the Kennel Union of SA, so that the genetics, both positive and negative, are completely unknown.

 

Now I am not advocating that everyone should rush out and only get purebred registered puppies. Many mixed-breed pups make wonderful companion animals and working dogs. But you must realise that it is a “pot luck” purchase. You will not even be able to judge what the pup will look like when it is a “grown-up” or accurately judge its future size!

 

The advantages of buying a registered pup, from registered stock, from a registered “ethical” breeder, is that you, as the consumer, will know exactly what you are getting in size, shape conformation and character.

 

 

If you do not necessarily want a purebred dog with papers,

then support your local SPCA or one of the Rescue Organisations,

or Shelters, and give one of their “Poor Stray’s” A Good Home!

 

In this way, you would be doing Dogdom a service,

and saving a life!

 

SERVICES AVAILABLE AT PAWS ABILITIES

“Paws Abilities”

Behaviour & Learning Centre

 

WELCOME YOU TO THE WONDERFUL WORLD OF DOGDOM!

Thank you for showing an interest in the services we offer at Paws Abilities Behaviour and Learning Centre. You and your dog are about to begin an exciting journey, where you will both grow and develop, and have an opportunity to reach your full potential through mutual co-operation and respect! Please note that proof of inoculation is required upon joining. This is for your dog’s protection and to ensure the safety of all the dogs in the school.

 

WE PROVIDE: A safe rural environment; Club house & shade areas; Toilet facilities; Fully fenced exercise and socialising areas. Regular fun events and socials; A regular informative electronic newsletter; Dog shows/fun days/charity events. We have on sale:  Gentle, non-confrontational, passive, dog training equipment; Toys; Treats; Chews; Behaviour and Training books and booklets; Refreshments, etc.

 

PLEASE NOTE:

We do not run our school like a military boot camp! Specially developed, fun exercises, make learning fun, for both owner and dog. Only positive reinforcement / reward methods are used. No CORRECTIVE training methods are allowed. No choke chains, no yelling, no punishment, and no jerking leashes - EVER!

 

                        INDEX OF CONTENTS – PAGE ONE TO EIGHT:

1.                Paws Abilities Dog Training School - School Rules

2.             Problem Pets?, Private, confidential, behaviour consultations for problem pets. Booking essential.

3.                Prepare your existing dog for the arrival of a new (human) baby - addition to the family!

4.                Early puppy education – for pups from 8 weeks of age (proof of inoculation required)

5.             Saturday Training Classes - Timetable and class information

6.             Personal Paws – Specialised, personal, individualised, private training (Not available Saturdays). 

        This is training that is tailor made for your individual needs and requirements. Booking essential.

7.             Doggy Day Care Centre – For busy dog owners. Social opportunities, entertainment & education  

                 for dogs and pups. Booking essential. Full time / part time / flexi time – reasonable rates.

8.             Gentle Paws Grooming Parlour – Your Dog in Safe Hands: The “open plan” grooming parlour with a        

difference! Owner undertakes all grooming personally – no helpers!

Special, gradual accustomisation programmes developed for difficult dogs – no force. Stress free grooming! Now taking Saturday bookings!

 

TRAINING FEES / PAYMENT

All new students are required to pay two-months training fees in advance and a nominal once off “joining/admin” fee. The joining fee includes an in-depth homework manual, monthly electronic newsletter, access to regular workshops, social events and much more!

 

Thereafter fees are payable monthly in advance.  The cost of behavioural consultations is available on enquiry, and varies according to time/location, etc. An average of two hours is needed in order to observe the dog, and obtain an adequate background / history.

 

We are very much aware of the costs charged by other schools/clubs, and can categorically state, that our cost are very nominal in comparison to other clubs/school and we still offer the most diverse training available, and generally provide the best facilities (which we continually strive to improve). In saying that, I would like to take this opportunity to thank each of our students and clients for their loyal support. Please do not hesitate to contact me should you have any further questions or queries.

082-231-3568 or 082-890-0905 louthomp@mweb.co.za

 

Kind Regards

Louise

 

JOIN US ON GOOGLE!

pawsabilitiesbehaviourandlearning.blogspot.com

Monthly Paws Abilities Newsletter;

Discussion @ Q & A Welcome.

Regular Update Posts;

News; Views; Doggy Gossip;

Behaviour & Training Articles,

A great way to keep in touch, and up to date!

(You will need to open an account – it’s easy and free!)

pawsabilitiesbehaviourandlearning.blogspot.com

 

 

Paws Abilities School Rules

õ    PLEASE, RESPECT OUR GROUNDS AND EQUIPMENT – We have all worked sooooo hard to get and maintain our school and grounds. If your dog digs ANYWHERE PLEASE fill in the hole!! If your dog destroys something – fix it or replace it! We have wonderful facilities LETS ALL LOOK AFTER THEM!

 

õ    If you use any of our training equipment, please pack it away after you have finished with it.

In addition PLEASE DON’T LET YOUR MALE DOGS URINATE ON OUR AGILITY EQUIPMENT OR ON OUR CLUB HOUSE VERHANDA!!!

 

õ    SCOOP THE POOP: Handlers must clean up after their dogs toilet!!! Packets are provided, as are bins for the disposal of waste. DON’T LET YOUR DOGS TOILET IN TRAINING AREAS – the scent is extremely distracting when the other dogs are working. This is also to encourage future good ring craft and good dog owner manners. OWNERS WHO DON’T TO “SCOOP THE POOP”

WILL BE FINED!!!

 

õ    PUNCUALITY: Handlers should arrive at the grounds at least 15 minutes prior to class. This is so that the dog can be taken for a slow stroll, can have a good sniff, can be provided with toilet opportunities (a full bowel is not conducive to learning), and a chance to settle down. Handlers arriving late will not be permitted to join a class until this has been done. If you arrive LATE (and the class is busy with an exercise) do not barge into the group, and disrupt the entire class! Be considerate of others and please show respect for the dogs who are working and trying to concentrate. Wait quietly in the background, until the particular exercise is completed.

 

õ    RESPECT OTHER DOGS PERSONAL SPACE – PLEASE Don’t crowd, or encroach on another dogs space – especially a dog/s you don’t know. REMEMBER THAT NOT ALL DOGS ARE SOCIALABLE AND FRIENDLY!!!

 

õ    SOCIALISING: Dogs are not permitted to socialise during class without instructor permission. Handlers are, however, encouraged to stay after training in order to permit their dogs to socialise (if the dogs are compatible). Dogs must learn the difference between work and play. During class, the only play that should be permitted is play learning or structured play - between handler and dog. This assists the learning process. It helps to make the handler more “valuable” and, in that matter, makes the dog more eager to please her.

 

õ    HOMEWORK: As all learning is achieved through the “building-block” approach, all handlers should prepare themselves and their dogs for the following week’s lesson by putting into practice what they have learnt in class at home. This does not have to be formal homework. It is quite sufficient for a handler to perform three to five minutes’ homework a day as part of their daily routine. There is no excuse for not being able to perform a couple of minutes’ homework a day!

 

õ    METHODOLOGY: All training methods must utilise positive reinforcement. No harsh treatment of dogs will be permitted. In addition, all training equipment must be approved by instructors. Equipment that could be considered inhumane or painful may not be used. No choke chains, pinch collars, or electric collars are permitted. With “difficult” dogs, alternative non-confrontational methods will be found. The problem could also be solved through a private behaviour consultation or private individual lessons, until such a time that the handler possesses a level of control where the dog will not disrupt a class or pose a danger to other dogs/handlers or to the public.

 

õ    CONTROL: During training class, all dogs are to be kept on leash, unless told otherwise by an instructor.

 

õ    NO BITCHES IN SEASON are permitted onto the grounds.

 

õ    When on the grounds, all Pit Bull’s shall wear a full cage muzzle at all times – NO EXCEPTIONS!

 

 

Problem Pets? 

Book NOW for a Private, Confidential

Behaviour Consultation.

Does your pet exhibit any of the following unwanted behaviours?

õ     Aggression towards people or pets.	õ     Anxiety / neurosis.
õ     Self-mutilation.	õ     Fighting or incompatibilities.
õ     Digging or destructive chewing.	õ     Escaping or gate bolting.
õ     Excessive barking or howling.	õ     Inappropriate toilet habits.
õ     Tail chasing, spinning or shadow chasing.	õ     Hyper sexuality, leg/object mounting.
õ     Disobedience, excitability, jumping up, etc.	õ     Fears or phobias

 

 

THE BEHAVIOUR CONSULTATION (Advanced booking is essential): 

õ   On the day of the appointment, the pet & family members will be seen at the consulting rooms, or occasionally, under special circumstances, the pet will be seen in the owner’s home, or for owners in outlying areas telephonic or e-mail consultations may be arranged.

õ   When seen at the Paws Abilities consulting rooms, on consultation, the pet will be placed in a secure area, where observations will be made, whilst a full background and history is taken, and all problems being experienced are fully discussed. 

õ   After an in-depth evaluation, an immediate prognosis is given, followed by a brief oral outline of what is needed for the family to achieve a successful resolution.  This is backed up with a full written report, detailing the step by step instructions needed for a successful resolution. 

õ   The cost varies according to time/location, etc, and an average of two hours is needed. 

õ   The fee includes:  the consultation, a detailed written report, and telephonic back-up. 

õ   A successful outcome depends largely on owner co-operation, compliance & consistency.

 

 

For Gentle Solutions – That Work!

For the “LOVE” of Dogs!

 

Louise Thompson – Accredited Animal Behaviour Consultant.

 Mobile 082-890-0905 (011) Consulting Rooms 969-4467

Accredited Animal Behaviour Consultant & Professional Dog Trainer:  

Accredited in 1995 with the Animal Behaviour Consultants of SA (©®™).

Certificate of Companion Animal Behaviour (Faculty of Veterinary Science,

Department of Ethology, University of Pretoria, 1996).

Certificate of Advanced Companion Animal Behaviour (Pretoria Technikon, 1997).

Member of the SA Association of Dog Obedience Instructors (SAADOI) & various similar overseas

organisations for animal trainers and animal behaviourists.

 

 

 Baby Paws

 

EXPECTING A NEW BABY?

Concerned about introductions and interactions between your “Best Friend” and your new baby? Prepare you dog for the arrival of your bundle of joy!

 

Private Consultations / Group Bookings / Antenatal classes etc.

Everyone wants their dog to be good with children. Unfortunately, as pack animals, acceptance of a new baby does not always come “naturally” to a dog, who can view this demanding noisy “newcomer” as a threat to his status and position in the human/animal pack! With all the excitement and fuss, surrounding the birth of a new baby, often the family dog is last on the list of perceived problems. Cases of young babies being mauled and even killed by a family pet are not unknown!

 

Dogs need to be gently prepared “behaviourally” (if possible up to three months in advance) for them to be able to cope with changes in routine, different focus of his owner’s attention and the many other aspects of the human animal relationship, to ensure long term, positive, human animal interactions.

 

PREPARE YOUR DOG FOR A SAFE HEALTHY INTRODUCTION AND

A POSITIVE LASTING RELATIONSHIP WITH YOUR NEW BABY.

 

All methods used are utilising positive reinforcement,

and the dog’s natural behaviour: No punishment, no force

 

 

CONTACT LOUISE THOMPSON

Accredited Animal Behaviour Consultant

Accredited with the Animal Behaviour Consultants of SA:

Certificate of Companion Animal Behaviour – University of Pretoria

Certificate of Advanced Companion Animal Behaviour – Pretoria Technikon

Member of the SA Association of Dog Obedience Instructors (SAADOI)

 

082-231-3568   082-890-0905

louthomp@mweb.co.za www.animal-behaviour.org.za

 

 

“Puppy Paws”

 

EARLY PUPPY EDUCATION GROUP! Pups may be admitted from about 7 weeks of age and remain in this group until about 5 ½ months of age. Proof of inoculation is compulsory! Puppy school is a time and place where puppies and owners are educated. The aim is to produce a well-adjusted, socially acceptable, adult companion animal. All exercises are taught as fun games and learning methods are reward-based, using the concept of positive reinforcement!

 

            What we cover in class:

Ø The principles of positive reinforcement learning.

Ø Natural bite inhibition & passive, non-confrontational human leadership skills.

Ø Leash skills – how to get your pup to walk on a loose leash.

Ø Confidence-building exercises to produce a well-adjusted pup.

Ø Inter-canine social skills.

Ø Teaching your pup to reliably “come” when she is called.

Ø Handling  and examination skills.

Ø Basic canine communication and behaviour.

Ø Puppy stages of behavioural development.

Ø Basic obedience exercises (sit, down, stand, recall, fetch, leave, wait, etc.).

Ø Teaching your pup to concentrate.

Ø Teaching the pup not to run away with your valuable possessions.

Ø Basic puppy behaviour problem solving.

Ø Basic puppy and dog care.

Ø An accompanying in-depth homework book is provided for all new students.

 

 

Classes are held each Saturday morning at 8:00. Handlers are expected to be prompt and to be at the grounds 10 minutes before class. They are also expected to clean up after their pups, i.e. to “scoop the poop”. Do not feed your pup prior to class, as food is used as a motivator/training tool.  Pups with a full tummy tend to sleep through the entire class – not conducive to learning! 

            

WHAT TO BRING TO CLASS (Please wear old clothes!)

õ   A hungry pup restrained on a light, flat collar (or harness) and soft leash.

õ   Soft yummy dog treats.

õ   A shallow water dish.

õ   Dog brush and vitamin tablets – for pill-taking & grooming practice.

õ   Toys for playtime.

õ   A large sense of humour, and a willingness to learn new things.

 

Held under the direct supervision of our accredited animal behaviourist, Louise Thompson, and our experienced, understanding instructors.  All exercises are performed individually and gentle methods are found to suit each individual puppy and handler.

We “LOVE” Puppies!

 

 

Paws Abilities School Timetable

Should you be experiencing any problems with your pet, a behaviour evaluation may be required, prior to integration into a training class. Please contact Louise for more information.

TIME	CLASS		DESCRIPTION	LEVEL
8:00 AM	Early Puppy Education Class		This class includes “Puppy One (from approximately 7 weeks of age or one week after the pups first inoculation) & Puppy Two” (from approximately 4 – 5 ½ months) levels, of early canine learning and education for pups and owners. Owners are taught leadership skills – without bully tactics!	Level One
10:00 AM	Puppy Three Class	This is the next level of progressive “building-block” approach training a follow on from the Puppy One and Two class, and is from about 5 – 6 months of age.		Level Two
10:00 AM	An introduction to Clicker Training	This group is a specialised training methodology class, using the clicker as a positive reinforcement “marker” to mark wanted or desired behaviours (operant conditioning).		Level One
12:30PM	Introduction to Dog Training	This group is for dogs and new owners who have not had the advantage of attending the early puppy education group. For dogs and owners who have not trained before.		Level One
12:30 PM	Good Companion / Social One	Handlers with problem dogs or dogs with social difficulties		Level One
12:30 PM	Good Companion / Social Two	The Next Level From Intro to Dog Training Providing non-competitive owners dogs with life skills.		Level Two
12:30 PM	Obedience – Elementary Beginners / Beginners	The Next Level From Introduction To Dog Training. Readiness for obedience competitions – However, all exercises are taught as light, fun games – no pressure!		Level Three
2:15	Social Class – Advanced Level	For non-competitive handlers – fun obedience / games and a bit of all disciplines with your dog (a reasonable level of off leash obedience is necessary).		Level Four
2:15	Advanced Formal Obedience Class (Show Standard)	For serious minded handlers and dogs – readiness for show standard. Novice to C Test Class. However, this group emphasises training as being fun for the dogs and their handlers – never a repetitive chore!		Level Four/Eight
2:15	Advanced Dog Sports Class	Fun mental exercise, games and various dogs sports (rally-obedience, ball pond scent, target recalls, fly-ball, various retrieve games (water retrieves/food retrieves) country agility, various concentration and mind stimulation games, tricks and other fun games). For dogs that are reliable off leash and have a reasonable level of obedience and social skills (most exercises are conducted off leash).		Level Four/Eight
3:30	Contact Agility	The safest form of Agility. Dogs are taught control, self discipline and concentration. With the emphasis being on safety first! A full agility / obstacle course is available		From Beginners to Advanced
	Personal Paws	Specialised, private, individual (personalised) tuition is available BOOKING IS ESSENTIAL! This service is offered for handlers who can not attend weekend classes and/or have dogs with social issues. The eventual aim is integration into a general group class.

 

Our team of specialised dog training instructors are a dedicated group of highly experienced individuals, (including a resident accredited animal behaviour consultant) and have experience in the following areas: 

 

Many years practical experience in their field. Competitive achievements within the Kennel Union / Federation organisation, in one or more disciplines. Regular attendance of training seminars/workshops. Dog “Breed” knowledge. A sound scientific knowledge of basic canine behaviour.  Knowledge of the critical stages of early canine development. Knowledge of many different, gentle, non-confrontational, positive reinforcement, training methods. People skills, the desire to learn, an open mind, and a sense of humour!

 

 

“Personal Paws”

Private, Personalised, Dog Training Lessons.

 

If you are looking for training that’s tailor made to suit you

and your dogs individual needs - THIS IS FOR YOU!

 

1/      Personal Training is “one on one”. Learning is based on the handler & his/her dog’s individual needs and capabilities.   No more having to keep up with the rest of the class! nor are you ever held back. The time is spent ONLY on you and your dog as a team!

 

2/    Handlers are able to request training aimed at any specific problems you are currently experiencing.

 

3/    Whether you have never trained before, or are currently NOT getting results and becoming frustrated – this is the method for you!

 

4/    Ideal for handlers you are unable to attend weekend training. (Most training schools only are in operation on weekends)

 

5/    The handler/dog’s age does not matter, its never to late to learn!

 

6/    Personal Paws offers - Clicker training, Agility, Obedience Training (Domestic & Show), Trick Training, Fun Games, Dog Sports, and General Good Manners.

 

7/    The training grounds are situated in a safe and secure area in the Benoni area. There is plenty of shade, and there are toilet facilities available

 

8/    Personal Paws has gentle, experienced instructors and is run under the same guidelines and ethics as Paws Abilities Behaviour & Learning Centre. No harsh methods are employed. No choke chains. No yelling. Only positive reinforcement methods of learning are employed. 

 

BOOKING IS ESSENTIAL

CONTACT:-

Louise Thompson @ 082-231-3568  or 082-890-0905

Or - Mandy Pigott @ 082 495 2050

 

 

Paws Abilities

Behaviour & Learning Centre

 

 

Paws Abilities Doggie Day Care Centre.

A specialised service for busy, working moms and dads.

 

Does your best friend have too much time on his paws?

Are you coming home each day to garden damage and more?

Is your dog or puppy alone without adequate mental and physical stimulation?

 

If you dog/pup is socially acceptable, here is the perfect answer for you!

 

Paws Abilities Doggie Day Care Centre:

ü Constant supervision.

ü A structured day of entertainment, education, and fun, for your fur kids!

ü Play time and socialising opportunities.

ü Educational games.

ü Rest Time.

ü Good manners education (including loose leash walking, and other basic manners).

ü Exposure to livestock

ü Life skills, confidence building, and much more.

ü Full time, part time, half day, and casual care available. 

 

Contact Louise on 082-231-3568  or  082-890-0905

 Or Emma at 082-923-9317

louthomp@mweb.co.za

 

 

“Gentle Paws”

A Special Grooming Experience!

 

õ   PLAYTIME: Treat your dog to an outing in the country! Grooming Becomes a treat – NOT A PUNISHMENT! All dogs are taken for a fun walk, and given the opportunity to run and play in our safe, escape proof, dog friendly, dog park, prior to grooming. This provides them with a good association with the grooming experience!

õ   ExclusiVE, INDIVIDUAL ATTENTION!: During the week, only one family’s dogs are groomed at once and only one family’s dogs are on the premises at one time!

õ   TRUST: No assistants/helpers! No stress! The owner undertakes all grooming, washing etc herself! Unhurried, gentle, dog grooming! For example: - If your dog has a hair dryer issue – no problem – no rush, he will be hand dried! We will adapt to suit the dog – on his terms – with his safety and comfort coming first!

õ   COMFORT: No cages – dogs have a paved, shade play area in which to play and dry. All dogs are washed in warm water – All year round!

õ   COMPETITIVE PRICES: No hidden costs. For badly matted or un-kept dogs, - just call for a price. No surprises!

õ   DIFFICULT DOGS: If you have a dog with GROOMING ISSUES – WE CAN HELP! Gentle, gradual accustomisation programmes undertaken for dogs with grooming issues.

õ   PREVENTION & TREATMENT: Early puppy accustomisation programme.   Get your puppy used to grooming from an early age.

 

Contact: Emma Thompson at - 082-231-3568

or 082-923-9317 Electronic address. louthomp@mweb.co.za

Gentle Paws – Your Dog In Safe Hands!