In the resonably near future we are going to have a new home - a full, interactive, more user friendly web site!
Watch this space for more details!
Cheers for now
Lou
Thursday, March 17, 2011
Monday, March 14, 2011
What to do if a dog attacks you.
What should I do if a dog attacks me?
By David Ryn
The dog is almost certainly attacking you because it considers you to be a threat in some way. There are two main priorities to ensure your own safety: firstly to physically protect yourself and secondly to reduce the threat to the dog so they stop the attack. Using strategies that combine these two priorities will afford you most protection.
Stop moving towards the dog
If you are at home, stand still (see above FAQs). If you are out walking, jogging or cycling and a dog approaches you, you have probably inadvertently entered what it considers to be its territory. If it runs towards you but is not barking or growling, it may just be checking you out and after a quick sniff to determine you are no threat may leave you alone. Stand still and let it sniff. Do not try to touch it, or make sudden movements, but speak reassuringly. Keep standing still and it will lose interest and leave. If it is barking or growling, it considers you a threat that must be dealt with and will be unlikely to leave.
Stay calm.
Indoors, or if you are walking or jogging, stand still and face the dog, slightly angling your body away from them. Keep your body relaxed and on your back foot. You want to give the impression you are leaving calmly. Do not try to shoo away, hit or kick the dog as you will be increasing the threat, and will increase the possibility of a full attack. Talk to the dog calmly in a pleasant tone of voice. Tell it you mean it no harm and that you are leaving. If you are cycling, dismount and place the bike between you and the dog. This allows you to slowly wheel it far enough away to remount. Do not try to outpace the dog as this may encourage it to chase you.
Get something as solid as possible between you and the dog.
Indoors this may be furniture, a chair, coffee table or even a cushion. If you are delivering something to the house it may be the parcel, a bag or your coat. If you are in the street or park it may be a bench, a lamppost or litter bin. If cycling, use your bicycle as above.
Watch the dog.
But do not stare into its face. Turn your head slightly to one side and downwards. Watch it very carefully out of the corner of your eye.
You may need to move, either behind something or to get away from the dog.
If the dog does not press home its attack, walk slowly backwards or sideways. Do not let the dog get round behind you; keep moving gently so that you continue to present a half side/front view of your body. Do not make sudden movements or run, just walk slowly away from the dog. It is not likely to pursue you very far. Keep walking and talking up to the point at which the dog loses interest in you. Try to place more solid objects between you if you can, for example move from table to sofa, or from lamppost to litterbin. If you must get past the dog, try to circle round, keeping at least the original distance between you.
If the dog does press home the attack.
Try to hold something between you and it, such as your briefcase, bag or coat. Fend off rather than try to fight back. Very few dogs press home a serious attack and after a snap-bite they will be content that you are leaving. Do not scream or yell. If you know there are people within hearing distance, calmly and as quietly as possible call to them for help. Stay on your feet and do not corner yourself. Continue to walk slowly away, backwards or sideways, looking down and sideways, talking reassuringly, fending off if necessary and aiming to place solid objects between you as you leave.
By David Ryn
The dog is almost certainly attacking you because it considers you to be a threat in some way. There are two main priorities to ensure your own safety: firstly to physically protect yourself and secondly to reduce the threat to the dog so they stop the attack. Using strategies that combine these two priorities will afford you most protection.
Stop moving towards the dog
If you are at home, stand still (see above FAQs). If you are out walking, jogging or cycling and a dog approaches you, you have probably inadvertently entered what it considers to be its territory. If it runs towards you but is not barking or growling, it may just be checking you out and after a quick sniff to determine you are no threat may leave you alone. Stand still and let it sniff. Do not try to touch it, or make sudden movements, but speak reassuringly. Keep standing still and it will lose interest and leave. If it is barking or growling, it considers you a threat that must be dealt with and will be unlikely to leave.
Stay calm.
Indoors, or if you are walking or jogging, stand still and face the dog, slightly angling your body away from them. Keep your body relaxed and on your back foot. You want to give the impression you are leaving calmly. Do not try to shoo away, hit or kick the dog as you will be increasing the threat, and will increase the possibility of a full attack. Talk to the dog calmly in a pleasant tone of voice. Tell it you mean it no harm and that you are leaving. If you are cycling, dismount and place the bike between you and the dog. This allows you to slowly wheel it far enough away to remount. Do not try to outpace the dog as this may encourage it to chase you.
Get something as solid as possible between you and the dog.
Indoors this may be furniture, a chair, coffee table or even a cushion. If you are delivering something to the house it may be the parcel, a bag or your coat. If you are in the street or park it may be a bench, a lamppost or litter bin. If cycling, use your bicycle as above.
Watch the dog.
But do not stare into its face. Turn your head slightly to one side and downwards. Watch it very carefully out of the corner of your eye.
You may need to move, either behind something or to get away from the dog.
If the dog does not press home its attack, walk slowly backwards or sideways. Do not let the dog get round behind you; keep moving gently so that you continue to present a half side/front view of your body. Do not make sudden movements or run, just walk slowly away from the dog. It is not likely to pursue you very far. Keep walking and talking up to the point at which the dog loses interest in you. Try to place more solid objects between you if you can, for example move from table to sofa, or from lamppost to litterbin. If you must get past the dog, try to circle round, keeping at least the original distance between you.
If the dog does press home the attack.
Try to hold something between you and it, such as your briefcase, bag or coat. Fend off rather than try to fight back. Very few dogs press home a serious attack and after a snap-bite they will be content that you are leaving. Do not scream or yell. If you know there are people within hearing distance, calmly and as quietly as possible call to them for help. Stay on your feet and do not corner yourself. Continue to walk slowly away, backwards or sideways, looking down and sideways, talking reassuringly, fending off if necessary and aiming to place solid objects between you as you leave.
Friday, March 11, 2011
Dog Obedience Training - an Overview!
DOG OBEDIENCE TRAINING – AN OVERVIEW:
Dog Training can be Divided into Three Categories.
1. Restrictive routines
2. Active routines
3. Combination routines
• The “Sit Stay”, “Down Stay”, & “Stand for Examination” are wholly “Restrictive routines.
• Dog jumping and retrieving are “Active Routines.”
• Exercises such as “Heelwork” and “Recalls” are considered “Combination routines.”
One of the problems with dog training is that in the beginning the usual sequences of exercises learnt in training are normally “restrictive routines”. As the first year of a dog’s life is the most physically active period of his life, it has two distinct disadvantages!
1. It fails to take into account, and fails to capitalise on the young dogs natural tendencies. The young dogs natural tendencies are to be active and playful. Young dogs also have very short attention spans and need constant direction of their attention.
2. It also introduces exercises that the young dog finds boring and sometimes even unpleasant, which could hinder attempts to build a positive attitude towards working with his handler.
The positive association of “play”, can form the beginning of a strong human canine bond, thus develops the positive attitude so desirable in future training. This could be called the “desire to learn” or the “will to please” without which, no learning can take place!
To too many people,
“Training” means punishment, yelling and being forceful.
It has been proved beyond a shadow of doubt, that positive reinforcement, and reward based learning methods, are far more successful than any negative methods of training!
Play and fun in training – especially in the early impressionable age is often totally neglected! By beginning with play exercises, the handler learns to relax, be happy and encourage his young dog/puppy, thus developing a positive attitude, which is so necessary when training any species of animal.
As the young pup matures and develops – the reward of play (combined with any other motivations necessary i.e. treats, toys, ball etc) becomes a wonderful habit. Learning and working is such fun the dog actively looks forward to his training sessions.
Dog Training can be Divided into Three Categories.
1. Restrictive routines
2. Active routines
3. Combination routines
• The “Sit Stay”, “Down Stay”, & “Stand for Examination” are wholly “Restrictive routines.
• Dog jumping and retrieving are “Active Routines.”
• Exercises such as “Heelwork” and “Recalls” are considered “Combination routines.”
One of the problems with dog training is that in the beginning the usual sequences of exercises learnt in training are normally “restrictive routines”. As the first year of a dog’s life is the most physically active period of his life, it has two distinct disadvantages!
1. It fails to take into account, and fails to capitalise on the young dogs natural tendencies. The young dogs natural tendencies are to be active and playful. Young dogs also have very short attention spans and need constant direction of their attention.
2. It also introduces exercises that the young dog finds boring and sometimes even unpleasant, which could hinder attempts to build a positive attitude towards working with his handler.
The positive association of “play”, can form the beginning of a strong human canine bond, thus develops the positive attitude so desirable in future training. This could be called the “desire to learn” or the “will to please” without which, no learning can take place!
To too many people,
“Training” means punishment, yelling and being forceful.
It has been proved beyond a shadow of doubt, that positive reinforcement, and reward based learning methods, are far more successful than any negative methods of training!
Play and fun in training – especially in the early impressionable age is often totally neglected! By beginning with play exercises, the handler learns to relax, be happy and encourage his young dog/puppy, thus developing a positive attitude, which is so necessary when training any species of animal.
As the young pup matures and develops – the reward of play (combined with any other motivations necessary i.e. treats, toys, ball etc) becomes a wonderful habit. Learning and working is such fun the dog actively looks forward to his training sessions.
Wednesday, March 9, 2011
Food for thought???
Found this article from a holistic vet on the net
Dr Jones author of "Veterinary Secrets".
Who Controls The Dog Food Industry?
Unfortunately primarily LARGE corporations.
Here are the BIG 5
1. Nestle is the LARGEST dog food manufacturer better known as the chocolate and candy maker Nestle owns Purina and controls over 30% of the dog food market. It just so happens that they are also a not well thought of corporate giant...they were encouraging mothers in 3rd world countries to feed formula and NOT breast feed for example.
2. Mars is the second largest, now owning, Nutro, Royal Canin, Pedigree, and even small Canadian Company Medi-Cal;they control approx 20% of the market. Mars is of course better known for making candy..
3. Then there is the MONSTROUS multinational company Proctor and Gamble- they own Iams, Eukanuba, and recently purchased Natura Pet Products making Innova, Evo, California Natural, Healthwise, Mother Nature and Karma.They now control over 15% of the market. P and G is of course better known for making ubiquitous consumer goods such as Pampers(R), Tide(R), Ariel(R), Always(R), Whisper(R), Pantene(R), Mach3(R), Bounty(R), Dawn(R), Gain(R), Pringles(R), Charmin(R), Downy(R), Lenor(R), Iams(R), Crest(R), Oral-B(R), Duracell(R), Olay(R), Head & Shoulders(R), Wella(R), Gillette(R), Braun(R) and Fusion(R)...
4. Colgate Palmolive - yes the makers of toothpaste and dish soap NOW own Hills Pet Products...think of Science Diet and their family of brands which has over 10% of the dog food market.
5. Del Monte- yes the company best known for Pineapples has nearly 10% of the Pet Food Market. They own Natures Recipe, Pounce, Meow Mix, Kibbles and Bits, 9 Lives, Jerky treats, and the well known dog treat Milk Bone..
----------------------------------------
So What's the problem?
----------------------------------------
Big companies are focused on profits, and increasing shareholder value first.
Let's use the Proctor and Gamble takeover of Iams Pet Foods as an example.
Iams and Eukanuba were very reputable brands of pet food over 10 years ago....then the company was sold to the BIG MULTINATIONAL P & G.
Shortly after this P & G. placed Iams/Eukanuba in the mass market of groceries stores, Wal Mart etc..
Dog owners started to notice changes..diarrhea, vomiting, hair loss, allergies- even though the company INSISTED there was no change in formulation.
P&G had a class action suit brought against them, and the lawsuit showed that they had reformulated the dog food ingredients substiting 'chicken by products meal' instead of real chicken, substituting bran sorghum/barley for rice, and then adjusting on its package instructions to reduce the per day servings by 25%"
The substitution of the lesser expensive ingredients and reducing the advised feeding amounts by 25% allowed them to be MORE profitable, but decreased the QUALITY of the food producing the health issues in the dogs.
Dr Jones author of "Veterinary Secrets".
Who Controls The Dog Food Industry?
Unfortunately primarily LARGE corporations.
Here are the BIG 5
1. Nestle is the LARGEST dog food manufacturer better known as the chocolate and candy maker Nestle owns Purina and controls over 30% of the dog food market. It just so happens that they are also a not well thought of corporate giant...they were encouraging mothers in 3rd world countries to feed formula and NOT breast feed for example.
2. Mars is the second largest, now owning, Nutro, Royal Canin, Pedigree, and even small Canadian Company Medi-Cal;they control approx 20% of the market. Mars is of course better known for making candy..
3. Then there is the MONSTROUS multinational company Proctor and Gamble- they own Iams, Eukanuba, and recently purchased Natura Pet Products making Innova, Evo, California Natural, Healthwise, Mother Nature and Karma.They now control over 15% of the market. P and G is of course better known for making ubiquitous consumer goods such as Pampers(R), Tide(R), Ariel(R), Always(R), Whisper(R), Pantene(R), Mach3(R), Bounty(R), Dawn(R), Gain(R), Pringles(R), Charmin(R), Downy(R), Lenor(R), Iams(R), Crest(R), Oral-B(R), Duracell(R), Olay(R), Head & Shoulders(R), Wella(R), Gillette(R), Braun(R) and Fusion(R)...
4. Colgate Palmolive - yes the makers of toothpaste and dish soap NOW own Hills Pet Products...think of Science Diet and their family of brands which has over 10% of the dog food market.
5. Del Monte- yes the company best known for Pineapples has nearly 10% of the Pet Food Market. They own Natures Recipe, Pounce, Meow Mix, Kibbles and Bits, 9 Lives, Jerky treats, and the well known dog treat Milk Bone..
----------------------------------------
So What's the problem?
----------------------------------------
Big companies are focused on profits, and increasing shareholder value first.
Let's use the Proctor and Gamble takeover of Iams Pet Foods as an example.
Iams and Eukanuba were very reputable brands of pet food over 10 years ago....then the company was sold to the BIG MULTINATIONAL P & G.
Shortly after this P & G. placed Iams/Eukanuba in the mass market of groceries stores, Wal Mart etc..
Dog owners started to notice changes..diarrhea, vomiting, hair loss, allergies- even though the company INSISTED there was no change in formulation.
P&G had a class action suit brought against them, and the lawsuit showed that they had reformulated the dog food ingredients substiting 'chicken by products meal' instead of real chicken, substituting bran sorghum/barley for rice, and then adjusting on its package instructions to reduce the per day servings by 25%"
The substitution of the lesser expensive ingredients and reducing the advised feeding amounts by 25% allowed them to be MORE profitable, but decreased the QUALITY of the food producing the health issues in the dogs.
Sunday, March 6, 2011
FREE PLAY - THE GOOD THE BAD AND THE UGLY!
This is a post by author Nancy Frensley, CPDT, CAP2, who is Manager of Behavior and Training at the Berkeley-East Bay Humane Society in Berkeley, California. She writes periodic posts about the behavioral challenges and joys of shelter dogs.
One of first things adopters from our shelter, Berkeley East Bay Humane Society, want to do is take their dogs to a dog park. It’s easy to assume that all dogs both want to play with other dogs and have the right temperament and social skills to do so. However, everyone will benefit by considering a few things before beginning this particular adventure.
Until puppies reach maturity, between the ages of eighteen months and two years, most of them enjoy playing with other dogs. Good dog play can teach young dogs valuable lessons. Play enhances bite inhibition, develops communication skills, and maintains friendly responses to other dogs. As they mature, most dogs become less universal in their desire to play.
Even though some parts of each puppy’s play style are inherited, each of them goes through distinct developmental periods during the first two years of life in which social and play styles are formed. Puppies (under four months) can be very rude but are generally tolerated by adult dogs as well as their human parents. Between the ages of about five and eighteen months, almost all puppies start to push their boundaries with both people and their own kind. In addition, puppies experience distinct “fear periods” during this time of their lives. Unsupervised play as well as harsh corrections can cause pups to develop fear as well as the inappropriate play styles of chasing, body slamming and persistent wrestling; styles that can lead to aggression problems.
Most dogs reach full maturity at about two years. After that, they are less likely to engage in play with dogs they don’t already know and may become more reserved with people as well. Most are content, at this point, to play with previously established dog friends. Sometimes, they lose their desire to play with dogs entirely. Dogs adopted as adults have often had limited social exposure and may never enjoy playing with other dogs.
From the very first day, you should carefully monitor all your dog’s playtimes. By supervising, you can shape your dog’s play style for the rest of his life. The most important part of supervision is being able to recognize when play is appropriate and when it is not. The second most important part is being able to interrupt questionable or inappropriate play and call your dog away before it goes bad.
There are three kinds of dog play—good, questionable, and totally inappropriate. Here’s how to tell them apart:
Good dog play. You don’t need to interrupt this play. The dogs are monitoring themselves.
•Play is balanced. There is a lot of give-and-take. Both dogs are clearly having fun.
•Dogs have loose, relaxed bodies, and their movements are silly and inefficient-looking.
•Chase games exhibit a sense of sharing. But, if one dog is being chased into hiding or is becoming defensive, interrupt the play.
•Both dogs are making friendly play gestures. These include play bows, turning and hitting with the hips and both dogs stopping when things get too rough.
Questionable dog play. You should always interrupt this play before it goes too far. Any of the following behaviors can lead to a fight.
• Wrestling can be appropriate but is questionable and should be interrupted if more than two dogs are involved, or if one dog is always on the bottom.
• Tug-of-war if one or both dogs become possessive.
• Stalking postures: These postures are not play behavior. A stalking posture is significantly different from play bow and is often the first stage of a body slam.
Rude and totally inappropriate dog play. This “play” is not play at all; it is aggressive behavior and must always be stopped. After you intervene you have a good opportunity to play one-on-one with your dog while he settles down. Rude behaviors are:
• Neck biting and collar grabbing.
•Excessive barking and harassing another dog. Rude puppies often do this relentlessly at adult dogs that do not want to play.
• Body slamming. This is only fun for the slammer.
• Pinning. Bull breeds do this routinely, but others do it, too.
• Mounting other dogs. Both males and females do this and it is almost guaranteed to start a fight.
• Snapping. A dog that is scared or aggravated may snap; so may a dog that is guarding a toy or a bone.
• Standing in a “T” position (head over another dog’s shoulders). This is never play; it is always a challenge. Don’t let it happen at all.
• Ganging up. Two or more dogs ganging up on one.
• General over arousal, resulting in a case of the crazies, growlies, or snappies.
If you cannot call your dog away quickly and effectively as soon as play becomes questionable use a long line (20’-30’) and practice calling your dog with rewards every day. Once you call your dog away from play, give him time to calm down before releasing him to play again. If your dog has gotten into a scuffle, stop all interactions with other dogs for the remainder of the outing.
It’s everyone’s responsibility to supervise their dogs to keep play friendly.
One of first things adopters from our shelter, Berkeley East Bay Humane Society, want to do is take their dogs to a dog park. It’s easy to assume that all dogs both want to play with other dogs and have the right temperament and social skills to do so. However, everyone will benefit by considering a few things before beginning this particular adventure.
Until puppies reach maturity, between the ages of eighteen months and two years, most of them enjoy playing with other dogs. Good dog play can teach young dogs valuable lessons. Play enhances bite inhibition, develops communication skills, and maintains friendly responses to other dogs. As they mature, most dogs become less universal in their desire to play.
Even though some parts of each puppy’s play style are inherited, each of them goes through distinct developmental periods during the first two years of life in which social and play styles are formed. Puppies (under four months) can be very rude but are generally tolerated by adult dogs as well as their human parents. Between the ages of about five and eighteen months, almost all puppies start to push their boundaries with both people and their own kind. In addition, puppies experience distinct “fear periods” during this time of their lives. Unsupervised play as well as harsh corrections can cause pups to develop fear as well as the inappropriate play styles of chasing, body slamming and persistent wrestling; styles that can lead to aggression problems.
Most dogs reach full maturity at about two years. After that, they are less likely to engage in play with dogs they don’t already know and may become more reserved with people as well. Most are content, at this point, to play with previously established dog friends. Sometimes, they lose their desire to play with dogs entirely. Dogs adopted as adults have often had limited social exposure and may never enjoy playing with other dogs.
From the very first day, you should carefully monitor all your dog’s playtimes. By supervising, you can shape your dog’s play style for the rest of his life. The most important part of supervision is being able to recognize when play is appropriate and when it is not. The second most important part is being able to interrupt questionable or inappropriate play and call your dog away before it goes bad.
There are three kinds of dog play—good, questionable, and totally inappropriate. Here’s how to tell them apart:
Good dog play. You don’t need to interrupt this play. The dogs are monitoring themselves.
•Play is balanced. There is a lot of give-and-take. Both dogs are clearly having fun.
•Dogs have loose, relaxed bodies, and their movements are silly and inefficient-looking.
•Chase games exhibit a sense of sharing. But, if one dog is being chased into hiding or is becoming defensive, interrupt the play.
•Both dogs are making friendly play gestures. These include play bows, turning and hitting with the hips and both dogs stopping when things get too rough.
Questionable dog play. You should always interrupt this play before it goes too far. Any of the following behaviors can lead to a fight.
• Wrestling can be appropriate but is questionable and should be interrupted if more than two dogs are involved, or if one dog is always on the bottom.
• Tug-of-war if one or both dogs become possessive.
• Stalking postures: These postures are not play behavior. A stalking posture is significantly different from play bow and is often the first stage of a body slam.
Rude and totally inappropriate dog play. This “play” is not play at all; it is aggressive behavior and must always be stopped. After you intervene you have a good opportunity to play one-on-one with your dog while he settles down. Rude behaviors are:
• Neck biting and collar grabbing.
•Excessive barking and harassing another dog. Rude puppies often do this relentlessly at adult dogs that do not want to play.
• Body slamming. This is only fun for the slammer.
• Pinning. Bull breeds do this routinely, but others do it, too.
• Mounting other dogs. Both males and females do this and it is almost guaranteed to start a fight.
• Snapping. A dog that is scared or aggravated may snap; so may a dog that is guarding a toy or a bone.
• Standing in a “T” position (head over another dog’s shoulders). This is never play; it is always a challenge. Don’t let it happen at all.
• Ganging up. Two or more dogs ganging up on one.
• General over arousal, resulting in a case of the crazies, growlies, or snappies.
If you cannot call your dog away quickly and effectively as soon as play becomes questionable use a long line (20’-30’) and practice calling your dog with rewards every day. Once you call your dog away from play, give him time to calm down before releasing him to play again. If your dog has gotten into a scuffle, stop all interactions with other dogs for the remainder of the outing.
It’s everyone’s responsibility to supervise their dogs to keep play friendly.
Thursday, March 3, 2011
ATTENTION SEEKING BEHAVIOUR
ATTENTION SEEKING BEHAVIOURS REVEALED:
By Louise Thompson Accredited Animal Behaviour Consultant. (ABC of SA ©®™)
From a dogs point of view, if a behaviour is successful, (which means that the dog is rewarded for exhibiting a particular behaviour), then he will repeat the behaviour.
Reward, to a dog, can be one of many things, including receiving attention from his owner or pack leader! Most dogs even perceive negative attention as rewarding. So in other words, shouting, smacking and nagging the dog is rewarding, as the dog is getting you to take notice of him = attention = reward!
Dogs that constantly demand attention from their owners have learnt that this behaviour is successful.
More often than not, the more attention they demand, the more attention the owners give – if only to sometimes just keep the peace! This tends to just perpetuate the problem which then usually tends to worsen!
Attention seeking behaviour can present in many forms such as:-
• Demanding to be stroked
• Nudging for a stroke
• Pawing
• Resting his head on your lap for a stroke
• Constantly demanding to be let in / out
• Demanding food / water
• Refusal to eat – especially in the hope of being hand fed / or provided with higher value food, in overindulged cases.
• Vocalisation / barking / howling / yapping (the reward is the owners yelling “shut up”) = owner attention
• Vocalisation when the owner is on the telephone.
• Toy control
• Demanding to play (with or without toys)
• Demanding to go for a walk (ritualised behaviours)
• Begging at the table
• Physical exhibition of neurosis – to receive a response or comfort (shivering etc)
• Jumping up and certain excitable behaviour
• Some destructive behaviours.
• Leash forging (pulling on the lead)
• Jumping up against you to be picked up or carried.
Dogs who exhibit “attention seeking” behaviours are often insecure and over-indulged. These dogs often are suffering from stress caused by a lack of leadership – thus the basic pack responsibilities are directly on their shoulders! (Shame poor dogs!)
If a human does not provide leadership, the dog will instinctively have to take over that role – that is a natural part of hierarchal pack behaviour.
Being a leader does not mean you have to be harsh or nasty to your dog, as a leader you should be calm and a bit more aloof, but most important of all, as a leader you are the protector and decision maker (never a bully!)
In this regard, dogs also often receive conflicting signals from their owners – thus adding to their confusion and indirectly encouraging the behaviour – if only to receive a response.
Attention seeking dogs often are low ranking individuals, given owner status that they have not earned – this also causes confusion and encourages negative behaviours and dissention in a pack.
The miscommunication is often caused by Anthromorphisismn (owner’s misguidedly attributing human feelings and emotions to animals) this causes insecure, unhappy, confused dogs.
WAYS TO REDUCE OR ELIMINATE ATTENTION SEEKING BEHAVIOUR:
• Ignore negative behaviour and only reward and react to “good” or positive behaviours. For many dogs, the only attention they ever seem to get is when they are misbehaving! Try to consciously make more fuss of your dog when he is being “good”. The reward for being good is then habituated as if you are ignoring “bad” behaviour – the dog will desire attention and learn to get it by displaying behaviour that gets him attention!
• Use the “doggie time out” principles – which include – If the dog wants to be included in YOUR pack he has to abide by your rules.
• Become a good leader and decision maker – do not let the dog make any decisions. This will make you more valuable, reduce much doggy stress, and make your dog feel more secure as it lifts much (decision making / high ranking) responsibilities off his shoulders.
• Ensure that you initiate any contact with the dog – for example, if your dog comes and demands to play - ignore him until he stops demanding. Wait a couple of minutes and then call him for a game. In this way you have taken control, been the decision maker and rewarded the dog be encouraging the “good” behaviour to be repeated (as when he was calm and quiet – you then called him for a game)
• Make sure you make all decisions not the dog. You need to decide when all the good things in life happen – not the dog. This will take a huge “load” off his shoulders as you bear the brunt of the leadership role! Also he should learn that you are the provider of all good things, such as a walk, food, meals, grooming, games etc. All which should be on your terms and at your invitation!
• He should also have to “earn” all the good things in life. A simple sit or compliance with any other simple command can precede a reward, or a valuable thing in his life. Nothing should be given for free!
• If the dog repeatedly jumps up against you for a stroke or to be picked up. As he starts his “routine” then without speaking or reacting, simply jump up, march out of the room, and slam the door in his face. Give it a minute or two and then return and repeat if necessary. The second the dog does not demand to be picked up, then call him to you and pick him up and give him attention. Reward only good behaviour. This principle can be followed through to reduce various attention seeking behaviours.
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DOGGY TIME OUT
By Louise Thompson Accredited Animal Behaviourist ABC of SA: (©®™)
Owning an excitable or demanding dog, or pup, can ruin your social life; make family functions and other social events a nightmare. People can even begin to look for excuses not to come around to see you! If a dog or pup has not learnt social manners – it is never too late to instil new rules and regulations in your household. It is a fallacy that you cannot teach an old dog, new tricks! Any habit can be changed if the owners are consistent and send the “right” messages!
The most important rule of all is for everyone to be CONSISTENT!
Through repetition, patience, and consistency, dogs and pups learn patterns of behaviour very quickly! Therefore, to alter their attitude, and response, is actually very easy - if you go about it the right way!
RULES AND TIPS FOR EXCITABLE AND DIFFICULT DOGS :
Never punish your dog (either verbally or physically) for excited behaviour as you will either elicit a submissive behaviour response or otherwise simply encourage the dogs to become more excitable.
Use the basic rule – ignore all negative / bad behaviour, and reward and praise positive / good behaviour.
Limit your dog’s options – do not put the dog in a position where he can misbehave, he will then learn appropriate behaviour and earn your praise and reward. Success breeds success!
VISITORS AND EXCITABLE DOGS
As your visitors arrive have the dog on a collar and leash for control. Do not permit the visitors to acknowledge or greet the dog. They must ignore the animal until he is calm!
Do not let the visitors make eye contact with the dog, nor should they speak to him. He should be completely ignored until he is behaving in an appropriate way.
Crate train your dog – see the relevant section on crate training. Let the dog decide what is rewarding! Either have a crate in the room or area where the social is taking place or make the dog a bed or put down a blanket in a corner or non- traffic area, so that he is comfortable. Keep the dog on his collar and leash and tether him to a piece of heavy furniture or the window bars and ignore him for five minutes.
You can give him his favourite natural chew or toy to give him something to do, but do not feed or give him titbits if he is not behaving in an appropriate manner. Reward and acknowledge only positive behaviour.
If he does not settle after five minutes – then very calmly, without making a fuss (and with no eye contact) put him outside or in a non-contact area for five minutes doggie time out.
If he performs at the door / window only let him in the second he is quiet
You may then go through the entire procedure again, and again, and again, as many times as it takes before the dog gives you the calm behaviour that you need for him to interact with the visitors.
He will soon work out, that if he wants to be included in the human pack, he has to behave in a particular manner. This “inclusion”, is very important (from the dogs point of view) as he is a pack animal, and inclusion into the human canine pack is the basis of his nature and where he feels most safe and secure, (as he has the pack’s back up and support!)
This will have to be continually repeated each and every time that you have visitors until you are successful! Please note: The most difficult dog I ever worked with took 14 days of daily visitors (the visits were set up with dog friendly – well trained – visitors)
Once he is calm with the visitors then you can either, un-tether him (keep his leash on, so that you can grab him if need be to ensure control and compliance to commands) or (with his leash still on) just open the door of his crate and let him decide on his next course of action.
Again give him a few minutes to settle, having the visitors ignore him.
If he does not settle, then follow the “doggie time out” rules as previously explained.
Only allow visitors to acknowledge him when he is behaving in an appropriate manner.
Once he has got used to the above and showing good house manners then the visitors may calmly greet him and even if his behaviour warrants it, give him a treat or toy.
Make sure that initially the interaction with the visitors is brief, and they don’t get him too excitable. The visitors must be very calm, with calm voice and calm slow body language, and slow hand and arm movements or he will become excitable again. If he does get excited again, then you know you have given him “triggers” or allowed the visitors to get too interesting!
If your dog has a relapse – go back to the stage where he was coping and then work forward from there. Repeat until he gets the message.
Remember to be CONSISTENT – and also to get your visitors to be CONSISTENT!
DOGS NEED GOOD ROLE MODELS – the best rule to follow is to be a good example to your dog.
CALM HOUSEHOLD = CALM DOG!
By Louise Thompson Accredited Animal Behaviour Consultant. (ABC of SA ©®™)
From a dogs point of view, if a behaviour is successful, (which means that the dog is rewarded for exhibiting a particular behaviour), then he will repeat the behaviour.
Reward, to a dog, can be one of many things, including receiving attention from his owner or pack leader! Most dogs even perceive negative attention as rewarding. So in other words, shouting, smacking and nagging the dog is rewarding, as the dog is getting you to take notice of him = attention = reward!
Dogs that constantly demand attention from their owners have learnt that this behaviour is successful.
More often than not, the more attention they demand, the more attention the owners give – if only to sometimes just keep the peace! This tends to just perpetuate the problem which then usually tends to worsen!
Attention seeking behaviour can present in many forms such as:-
• Demanding to be stroked
• Nudging for a stroke
• Pawing
• Resting his head on your lap for a stroke
• Constantly demanding to be let in / out
• Demanding food / water
• Refusal to eat – especially in the hope of being hand fed / or provided with higher value food, in overindulged cases.
• Vocalisation / barking / howling / yapping (the reward is the owners yelling “shut up”) = owner attention
• Vocalisation when the owner is on the telephone.
• Toy control
• Demanding to play (with or without toys)
• Demanding to go for a walk (ritualised behaviours)
• Begging at the table
• Physical exhibition of neurosis – to receive a response or comfort (shivering etc)
• Jumping up and certain excitable behaviour
• Some destructive behaviours.
• Leash forging (pulling on the lead)
• Jumping up against you to be picked up or carried.
Dogs who exhibit “attention seeking” behaviours are often insecure and over-indulged. These dogs often are suffering from stress caused by a lack of leadership – thus the basic pack responsibilities are directly on their shoulders! (Shame poor dogs!)
If a human does not provide leadership, the dog will instinctively have to take over that role – that is a natural part of hierarchal pack behaviour.
Being a leader does not mean you have to be harsh or nasty to your dog, as a leader you should be calm and a bit more aloof, but most important of all, as a leader you are the protector and decision maker (never a bully!)
In this regard, dogs also often receive conflicting signals from their owners – thus adding to their confusion and indirectly encouraging the behaviour – if only to receive a response.
Attention seeking dogs often are low ranking individuals, given owner status that they have not earned – this also causes confusion and encourages negative behaviours and dissention in a pack.
The miscommunication is often caused by Anthromorphisismn (owner’s misguidedly attributing human feelings and emotions to animals) this causes insecure, unhappy, confused dogs.
WAYS TO REDUCE OR ELIMINATE ATTENTION SEEKING BEHAVIOUR:
• Ignore negative behaviour and only reward and react to “good” or positive behaviours. For many dogs, the only attention they ever seem to get is when they are misbehaving! Try to consciously make more fuss of your dog when he is being “good”. The reward for being good is then habituated as if you are ignoring “bad” behaviour – the dog will desire attention and learn to get it by displaying behaviour that gets him attention!
• Use the “doggie time out” principles – which include – If the dog wants to be included in YOUR pack he has to abide by your rules.
• Become a good leader and decision maker – do not let the dog make any decisions. This will make you more valuable, reduce much doggy stress, and make your dog feel more secure as it lifts much (decision making / high ranking) responsibilities off his shoulders.
• Ensure that you initiate any contact with the dog – for example, if your dog comes and demands to play - ignore him until he stops demanding. Wait a couple of minutes and then call him for a game. In this way you have taken control, been the decision maker and rewarded the dog be encouraging the “good” behaviour to be repeated (as when he was calm and quiet – you then called him for a game)
• Make sure you make all decisions not the dog. You need to decide when all the good things in life happen – not the dog. This will take a huge “load” off his shoulders as you bear the brunt of the leadership role! Also he should learn that you are the provider of all good things, such as a walk, food, meals, grooming, games etc. All which should be on your terms and at your invitation!
• He should also have to “earn” all the good things in life. A simple sit or compliance with any other simple command can precede a reward, or a valuable thing in his life. Nothing should be given for free!
• If the dog repeatedly jumps up against you for a stroke or to be picked up. As he starts his “routine” then without speaking or reacting, simply jump up, march out of the room, and slam the door in his face. Give it a minute or two and then return and repeat if necessary. The second the dog does not demand to be picked up, then call him to you and pick him up and give him attention. Reward only good behaviour. This principle can be followed through to reduce various attention seeking behaviours.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DOGGY TIME OUT
By Louise Thompson Accredited Animal Behaviourist ABC of SA: (©®™)
Owning an excitable or demanding dog, or pup, can ruin your social life; make family functions and other social events a nightmare. People can even begin to look for excuses not to come around to see you! If a dog or pup has not learnt social manners – it is never too late to instil new rules and regulations in your household. It is a fallacy that you cannot teach an old dog, new tricks! Any habit can be changed if the owners are consistent and send the “right” messages!
The most important rule of all is for everyone to be CONSISTENT!
Through repetition, patience, and consistency, dogs and pups learn patterns of behaviour very quickly! Therefore, to alter their attitude, and response, is actually very easy - if you go about it the right way!
RULES AND TIPS FOR EXCITABLE AND DIFFICULT DOGS :
Never punish your dog (either verbally or physically) for excited behaviour as you will either elicit a submissive behaviour response or otherwise simply encourage the dogs to become more excitable.
Use the basic rule – ignore all negative / bad behaviour, and reward and praise positive / good behaviour.
Limit your dog’s options – do not put the dog in a position where he can misbehave, he will then learn appropriate behaviour and earn your praise and reward. Success breeds success!
VISITORS AND EXCITABLE DOGS
As your visitors arrive have the dog on a collar and leash for control. Do not permit the visitors to acknowledge or greet the dog. They must ignore the animal until he is calm!
Do not let the visitors make eye contact with the dog, nor should they speak to him. He should be completely ignored until he is behaving in an appropriate way.
Crate train your dog – see the relevant section on crate training. Let the dog decide what is rewarding! Either have a crate in the room or area where the social is taking place or make the dog a bed or put down a blanket in a corner or non- traffic area, so that he is comfortable. Keep the dog on his collar and leash and tether him to a piece of heavy furniture or the window bars and ignore him for five minutes.
You can give him his favourite natural chew or toy to give him something to do, but do not feed or give him titbits if he is not behaving in an appropriate manner. Reward and acknowledge only positive behaviour.
If he does not settle after five minutes – then very calmly, without making a fuss (and with no eye contact) put him outside or in a non-contact area for five minutes doggie time out.
If he performs at the door / window only let him in the second he is quiet
You may then go through the entire procedure again, and again, and again, as many times as it takes before the dog gives you the calm behaviour that you need for him to interact with the visitors.
He will soon work out, that if he wants to be included in the human pack, he has to behave in a particular manner. This “inclusion”, is very important (from the dogs point of view) as he is a pack animal, and inclusion into the human canine pack is the basis of his nature and where he feels most safe and secure, (as he has the pack’s back up and support!)
This will have to be continually repeated each and every time that you have visitors until you are successful! Please note: The most difficult dog I ever worked with took 14 days of daily visitors (the visits were set up with dog friendly – well trained – visitors)
Once he is calm with the visitors then you can either, un-tether him (keep his leash on, so that you can grab him if need be to ensure control and compliance to commands) or (with his leash still on) just open the door of his crate and let him decide on his next course of action.
Again give him a few minutes to settle, having the visitors ignore him.
If he does not settle, then follow the “doggie time out” rules as previously explained.
Only allow visitors to acknowledge him when he is behaving in an appropriate manner.
Once he has got used to the above and showing good house manners then the visitors may calmly greet him and even if his behaviour warrants it, give him a treat or toy.
Make sure that initially the interaction with the visitors is brief, and they don’t get him too excitable. The visitors must be very calm, with calm voice and calm slow body language, and slow hand and arm movements or he will become excitable again. If he does get excited again, then you know you have given him “triggers” or allowed the visitors to get too interesting!
If your dog has a relapse – go back to the stage where he was coping and then work forward from there. Repeat until he gets the message.
Remember to be CONSISTENT – and also to get your visitors to be CONSISTENT!
DOGS NEED GOOD ROLE MODELS – the best rule to follow is to be a good example to your dog.
CALM HOUSEHOLD = CALM DOG!
Monday, February 28, 2011
PIT BULL TERRIERS
Hi Everyone.
I have an apology to make. I have always made the statement "blame the deed not the breed" and I was reading through some of the literature for Paws Abilities school - in particular the school rules and I realised that I had included a really stupid rule. The rule states that "all pit bull terriers will be muzzled when on the school grounds - no exceptions". Now I must tell you that I have never enforced that rule unless a dog (of any breed) would present a danger to other dogs or people.
If I am honest - I included the rule in case I needed to muzzle a potentialy dangerous dog. Not thinking (as with me is often the case) that it could ever be an issue.
Anyway it has come to my notice that some individuals perceive that I am anti pitbull, where in fact - nothing is further from the truth! We regularly have the breed in our early puppy education group and our other group lessons and I can state that each dog is evaulated on its own merit just as I would with any dog! I find them a really handsome breed asthetically - love the build and look, and generally have found them to be fun to work with, intellegent and have really had little problems with them in the school environment.Again I reitorate - no more problems than I have had with any other breed!
So please accept my apologies if it appeared that I am anti ANY breed of dog and I am sorry if there was any kind of misunderstanding.
My motto is BLAME THE DEED - NOT THE BREED
I might add that in over 35 years of working with dogs - I have been bitten more times by toy breeds than any of the fighting breeds.
Hope that clears up any feelings that I am anti dog!
Regards
Lou
I have an apology to make. I have always made the statement "blame the deed not the breed" and I was reading through some of the literature for Paws Abilities school - in particular the school rules and I realised that I had included a really stupid rule. The rule states that "all pit bull terriers will be muzzled when on the school grounds - no exceptions". Now I must tell you that I have never enforced that rule unless a dog (of any breed) would present a danger to other dogs or people.
If I am honest - I included the rule in case I needed to muzzle a potentialy dangerous dog. Not thinking (as with me is often the case) that it could ever be an issue.
Anyway it has come to my notice that some individuals perceive that I am anti pitbull, where in fact - nothing is further from the truth! We regularly have the breed in our early puppy education group and our other group lessons and I can state that each dog is evaulated on its own merit just as I would with any dog! I find them a really handsome breed asthetically - love the build and look, and generally have found them to be fun to work with, intellegent and have really had little problems with them in the school environment.Again I reitorate - no more problems than I have had with any other breed!
So please accept my apologies if it appeared that I am anti ANY breed of dog and I am sorry if there was any kind of misunderstanding.
My motto is BLAME THE DEED - NOT THE BREED
I might add that in over 35 years of working with dogs - I have been bitten more times by toy breeds than any of the fighting breeds.
Hope that clears up any feelings that I am anti dog!
Regards
Lou
Having a dog keeps your kids healthy!
Survey Reveals Kids With Dogs Are More Active
Posted by K9 Magazine Web Editor on February 28, 2011 in Dog News
Have you often wondered if having a dog would benefit your families health, getting you outdoors and give you a more active lifestyle? A new study reported today in The Tennessean has the answer! Researchers had 618 kids ranging between the ages of 12-16 years old wear accelerometers for a week to measure their physical activity. Half the families of the kids had dogs and half did not.
The study showed the kids in families with dogs got 32.1 minutes of moderate to vigorous exercise a day, while those without dogs got 29.5 minutes. The difference isn't much, but lead author John R. Sirard of the report said it's big enough to suggest more study be done.
Parents of the teens also wore the lightweight devices, but the difference in activity levels between adults in the two groups was nonexistent, Sirard said, suggesting the kids might have been the ones taking the dogs out. The families were not asked who cared for the dogs.
The study which was undertaken at the University of Minnesota, was one of the first to examine the relationship between adolescents and dogs. Sirard, a professor at the University of Virginia in Charlottesville, said the research didn't take into account the size or breed of the dog, the safety of the neighborhoods where the families lived or the level of attachment the kids had to the pets.
It's also possible that more active families were the ones that decided to get dogs in the first place, he said.
The study was funded by the National Cancer Institute, which is part of the National Institutes of Health. Results appear in the March issue of the American Journal of Preventive Medicine.
Posted by K9 Magazine Web Editor on February 28, 2011 in Dog News
Have you often wondered if having a dog would benefit your families health, getting you outdoors and give you a more active lifestyle? A new study reported today in The Tennessean has the answer! Researchers had 618 kids ranging between the ages of 12-16 years old wear accelerometers for a week to measure their physical activity. Half the families of the kids had dogs and half did not.
The study showed the kids in families with dogs got 32.1 minutes of moderate to vigorous exercise a day, while those without dogs got 29.5 minutes. The difference isn't much, but lead author John R. Sirard of the report said it's big enough to suggest more study be done.
Parents of the teens also wore the lightweight devices, but the difference in activity levels between adults in the two groups was nonexistent, Sirard said, suggesting the kids might have been the ones taking the dogs out. The families were not asked who cared for the dogs.
The study which was undertaken at the University of Minnesota, was one of the first to examine the relationship between adolescents and dogs. Sirard, a professor at the University of Virginia in Charlottesville, said the research didn't take into account the size or breed of the dog, the safety of the neighborhoods where the families lived or the level of attachment the kids had to the pets.
It's also possible that more active families were the ones that decided to get dogs in the first place, he said.
The study was funded by the National Cancer Institute, which is part of the National Institutes of Health. Results appear in the March issue of the American Journal of Preventive Medicine.
Wednesday, February 23, 2011
PLEASE PRINT THIS - AND TAKE A COPY TO YOUR LOCAL POLICE STATION AND/OR DISTRIBUTE FAR AND WIDE!
Hi Everyone.
People often become very disolusioned with the animal welfare situation in this country. My view is that "the buck stops with each and every individual person". We CAN make a difference, all we need to do is to be a little more proactive.
Having had several conversations with some of our SAPS public servants - I was horrified to find out that most have little or no knowledge of the offences under the Animal Protection Act. So I came up with a PLAN!
If each police station has a copy on their notice board on at the front desk, it would help our officers to do their job. Now I am not expecting the police to become animal cops - Even I am not so naieve to realise that there is some other rather important crime prevention needed in SA. However, as it is an "offence" NOT to report animal abuse - in my humble opinion it then also becomes the SAPS's job to INTERVENE until an animal protection officer or inspector is informed or takes over!
So - if everyone forwards a copy of the Animal Protection Act to their entire mailing list. And everyone prints a copy and puts it up at their local police station - has a friendly chat with the charge office staff - we can make a HUGE difference within the scope of the law!
I have also attached an open letter that I wrote to the policemen of our beautiful country - and hope it does not fall on deaf ears!
So lets all be PRO-ACTIVE, take a stand and start to make a difference!
Cheers for now
Lou
OFFENCES UNDER THE ANIMAL PROTECTION ACT:
NUMBER 71 OF 1962
(Assented to 16 June 1962) (Date of Commencement: December 1962)
The term “animal” means any equine, (horse), bovine (cow or cattle), sheep, goat, pig, fowl, ostrich, dog, cat, or other domestic animal or bird, or any wild animal, wild bird or reptile which is in captivity or under the control of any person.
2. Offences in respect of animals. ---- (1) Any person who -----
a) (Obvious Cruelty) Overloads, overdrives, overrides, ill-treats, neglects, infuriates, torturers or maims, or cruelly beats, kicks, goads, or terrifies any animal; or
b) (Chaining up or confinement) Confines, chains, tethers or secures any animal unnecessarily, or under such conditions, or in such a manner or position, as to cause that animal unnecessary suffering or in any place which affords inadequate space, ventilation, light, protection, or shelter from heat, cold or weather; or
c) (Lack of food and water) Unnecessarily starves or under-feeds, or denies water or food to any animal; or
d) (Poisoning) Lays or exposes any poison or any poisoned fluid or edible matter of infectious agents, except for the destruction of vermin, or marauding domestic animals, or without taking reasonable precautions to prevent injury or disease being caused to animals ; or
e) (Neglect) Being the owner of any animal, deliberately or negligently keeps such animal in a dirty, or parasitic condition, or allows it to become infested with external parasites or fails to render, or procure, veterinary or other medical treatment or attention, whether through disease, injury, delivery of young, (pregnancy or labour) or any other cause, or fails to destroy (provide euthanasia or destroy) or cause to be destroyed, any such animal which is so seriously injured, or diseased or in such a physical condition, that to prolong its life would be cruel, and would cause such animal unnecessary suffering; or
f) (Equipment) Uses on, or attaches to any animal any equipment, appliance or vehicle, which causes, or will cause, injury to such animal, or which is loaded, used or attached in such a manner as will cause such animal to be injured, or to become diseased, or to suffer unnecessarily; or
g) (Hunting) Save for the purpose of training hounds maintained by a duly established and registered vermin club in the destruction of vermin, liberate any animal in such a manner or place as to expose it to immediate attack or danger of attack, by other animals or by wild animals, or baits or provokes any animal or incites any animal to attack another animal; or
h) Liberates any bird in such manner as to expose it to immediate attack, or danger of attack by animals, wild animals or wild birds; or
i) (Transport – including carts etc) Drives or uses any animal which is so diseased, or so injured, or in such physical condition that it is unfit to be driven, or to do any work; or
j) (Trapping) Lays any trap or other device for the purpose of capturing, or destroying, any animal, wild animal or bird, the destruction of which is not proved to be necessary, for the protection of property, or for the prevention of the spread of disease; or
k) Having laid any such trap or other device, fails either himself, or through some competent person, to inspect and clear such trap or device, at least once each day; or
l) Except under the authority of a permit issued by the magistrate of the district concerned, sells a trap, or other device, intended for the capture of any animal, including any wild animal (not being a rodent) or wild bird, to any person who is not a bona fide farmer; or
m) (Road transport) Conveys, carries, confines, secures, restrains or tethers any animal –
(i) under such conditions, or in such a manner or position, or for such a period of time, or over such a distance, as to cause that animal unnecessary suffering; or
(ii) in conditions affording inadequate shelter, light or ventilation, or in which, such animal is excessively exposed to heat, cold, weather, sun, rain, dust, exhaust gas, or noxious fumes; or
(iii) without making adequate provision for suitable food, potable water and rest, for such animal, in circumstances where it is necessary; or
n) (Poisoning) without reasonable cause administers to any animal any poisonous or injurious drug or substance; or
o) ……………….
p) (Abandonment) Being the owner of any animal, deliberately or without reasonable cause or excuse, abandons it, whether permanently or not, in circumstances likely to cause that animal unnecessary suffering; or
q) Causes, procures or assists in the commission or omission of any of the aforesaid acts or, being the owner of any animal permits the commission or omission of any such act; or
r) By wantonly or unreasonably or negligently doing or omitting to do any act or causing or procuring the commission or omission of any act, causes any unnecessary suffering to any animal; or
s) Kills any animal in contravention of a prohibition in terms of a notice published in the Gazette under section (3) three of this section,
Shall, subject to the provisions of this Act and any other law, be guilty of an offence and liable on conviction to a fine or the imprisonment for a period not exceeding twelve months or to such imprisonment without the option of a fine.
ANIMAL FIGHTS:
1) Any person who -
a) Possess, keeps, imports, buys, sells, trains, breeds or has under his control, an animal for the purpose of fighting any other animal;
b) Baits, or provokes, or incites, any animal to attack another animal, or to proceed with the fighting of another animal,
c) For financial gain or a form of amusement promotes animal fights;
d) Allows any of the acts referred to in paragraphs (a) to (c) to take place on any premises, or place in his possession, or under his charge or control
e) Owns, uses or controls any premises, or place, for the purpose or partly for the purpose, of presenting animal fights on any such premises, or place, or who acts, or assists, in the management of any such premises, or place, or who receives any consideration, for the admission of any person, to any such premises or place; or
f) Is present as a spectator, at any premises, or place, where any of the acts referred to in paragraphs (a) to (c) is taking place, or where preparations are being made for such acts.
Shall be guilty of an offence and liable on conviction to a fine or imprisonment for a period not exciding two years.
APPEAL TO ALL POLICE OFFICERS WHO ARE PROUD OF THEIR PROFESSION:
Recently there have been some horrific cases of animal abuse in the news headlines. The two that immediately come to mind are :- The case where a Sundra man slowly hacked off the head of a young Husky puppy with a petrol chain saw, because it killed his pet bird. And more recently - after a truck carrying over 150 pigs jack-knifed in the Eastern Cape, a frantic mob converged, hacking at living flesh, butchering suffering animals whilst still alive. Please see the attached report.
I have been distributing copies of the offences listed under the Animal Protection Act, to police stations throughout the country – most of which I must state, have been received with enthusiasm from officers.
The public believe that police officers are lazy, corrupt, and uncaring – I DON’T.
I believe that there are a large number of police officers who wear their uniforms with pride, and go out of their way to make a difference. I am asking you to help to make a difference in another avenue of your job. You do not have to agree with the law, or agree with the contents of the Animal Protection Act. That is your right as an individual human being, in a free country. YOU DO NOT EVEN HAVE TO LIKE ANIMALS – but please consider the following:-
If you are cut – you bleed: - So do animals! If you are beaten – you bruise – So do animals!
If you are tortured – you are traumatised – So are animals! If you don’t have shelter in the winter, or shade in the sun– you will feel the cold and the heat, and you will suffer! – So do animals! If you are starved – you will die a painful death – So do animals! Animals feel and experience pain, fear, hunger, thirst and suffering! JUST LIKE US! Therefore, even if you are NOT an animal lover – perhaps you could for one minute, just put yourself in their shoes, and as a thinking, feeling, human being, feel compassion for a creature that cannot speak for itself.
The link between animal abuse, child abuse, abuse against women and especially serial killers has been clearly documented, for many years. Many serial killers started off their sick careers, by torturing and mutilating animals. Eventually these sick people progress to committing the same abuse and torture on people (often defenceless children and woman).
If one thinks that OUR children, wives, brothers, and sisters could, at some time, fall prey to such monsters, it might make us think twice, and then consider the Animal Protection Act.
I am not expecting you to become the “animal police” – that would be foolish. What I am asking is that if, in the course of your duty, you come across abuse, or obvious cruelty, (as listed under the APA) you report it immediately to the relevant SPCA. If there is an obvious emergency such as with the recent pig case – it is your duty to intervene immediately until the animal inspectors are there to take over, and it is your duty, to assist them if, and where necessary. What I am asking you to do is to respect the law, and follow it through.
I am asking you, not only to be concerned with laws for rapists/murderers and robbers, I am asking you to consider all laws, and that includes LAWS THAT PROTECT ANIMALS.
The offences listed under the animal protection act are very simple and very clear – and it must be pointed out that it is an offence not to report contraventions of the Act to the SPCA. It is also an offence for an officer not to intervene in an emergency.
Do not forget that people who abuse animals often also abuse people. This is fact! Standing up for something that is right, gives officers another reason to be proud. I would like YOU to prove the public wrong! Prove that we can be proud of ALL officers! Prove that you are willing to uphold ALL OF THE LAWS OF THIS COUNTRY. Let all South Africans work together, and make our wonderful country proud of us. Let us not hang our heads in shame because we couldn’t be bothered, or were too busy, or in too much of a hurry to make a difference!
Louise Thompson :
Mobile - 082-890-0905
People often become very disolusioned with the animal welfare situation in this country. My view is that "the buck stops with each and every individual person". We CAN make a difference, all we need to do is to be a little more proactive.
Having had several conversations with some of our SAPS public servants - I was horrified to find out that most have little or no knowledge of the offences under the Animal Protection Act. So I came up with a PLAN!
If each police station has a copy on their notice board on at the front desk, it would help our officers to do their job. Now I am not expecting the police to become animal cops - Even I am not so naieve to realise that there is some other rather important crime prevention needed in SA. However, as it is an "offence" NOT to report animal abuse - in my humble opinion it then also becomes the SAPS's job to INTERVENE until an animal protection officer or inspector is informed or takes over!
So - if everyone forwards a copy of the Animal Protection Act to their entire mailing list. And everyone prints a copy and puts it up at their local police station - has a friendly chat with the charge office staff - we can make a HUGE difference within the scope of the law!
I have also attached an open letter that I wrote to the policemen of our beautiful country - and hope it does not fall on deaf ears!
So lets all be PRO-ACTIVE, take a stand and start to make a difference!
Cheers for now
Lou
OFFENCES UNDER THE ANIMAL PROTECTION ACT:
NUMBER 71 OF 1962
(Assented to 16 June 1962) (Date of Commencement: December 1962)
The term “animal” means any equine, (horse), bovine (cow or cattle), sheep, goat, pig, fowl, ostrich, dog, cat, or other domestic animal or bird, or any wild animal, wild bird or reptile which is in captivity or under the control of any person.
2. Offences in respect of animals. ---- (1) Any person who -----
a) (Obvious Cruelty) Overloads, overdrives, overrides, ill-treats, neglects, infuriates, torturers or maims, or cruelly beats, kicks, goads, or terrifies any animal; or
b) (Chaining up or confinement) Confines, chains, tethers or secures any animal unnecessarily, or under such conditions, or in such a manner or position, as to cause that animal unnecessary suffering or in any place which affords inadequate space, ventilation, light, protection, or shelter from heat, cold or weather; or
c) (Lack of food and water) Unnecessarily starves or under-feeds, or denies water or food to any animal; or
d) (Poisoning) Lays or exposes any poison or any poisoned fluid or edible matter of infectious agents, except for the destruction of vermin, or marauding domestic animals, or without taking reasonable precautions to prevent injury or disease being caused to animals ; or
e) (Neglect) Being the owner of any animal, deliberately or negligently keeps such animal in a dirty, or parasitic condition, or allows it to become infested with external parasites or fails to render, or procure, veterinary or other medical treatment or attention, whether through disease, injury, delivery of young, (pregnancy or labour) or any other cause, or fails to destroy (provide euthanasia or destroy) or cause to be destroyed, any such animal which is so seriously injured, or diseased or in such a physical condition, that to prolong its life would be cruel, and would cause such animal unnecessary suffering; or
f) (Equipment) Uses on, or attaches to any animal any equipment, appliance or vehicle, which causes, or will cause, injury to such animal, or which is loaded, used or attached in such a manner as will cause such animal to be injured, or to become diseased, or to suffer unnecessarily; or
g) (Hunting) Save for the purpose of training hounds maintained by a duly established and registered vermin club in the destruction of vermin, liberate any animal in such a manner or place as to expose it to immediate attack or danger of attack, by other animals or by wild animals, or baits or provokes any animal or incites any animal to attack another animal; or
h) Liberates any bird in such manner as to expose it to immediate attack, or danger of attack by animals, wild animals or wild birds; or
i) (Transport – including carts etc) Drives or uses any animal which is so diseased, or so injured, or in such physical condition that it is unfit to be driven, or to do any work; or
j) (Trapping) Lays any trap or other device for the purpose of capturing, or destroying, any animal, wild animal or bird, the destruction of which is not proved to be necessary, for the protection of property, or for the prevention of the spread of disease; or
k) Having laid any such trap or other device, fails either himself, or through some competent person, to inspect and clear such trap or device, at least once each day; or
l) Except under the authority of a permit issued by the magistrate of the district concerned, sells a trap, or other device, intended for the capture of any animal, including any wild animal (not being a rodent) or wild bird, to any person who is not a bona fide farmer; or
m) (Road transport) Conveys, carries, confines, secures, restrains or tethers any animal –
(i) under such conditions, or in such a manner or position, or for such a period of time, or over such a distance, as to cause that animal unnecessary suffering; or
(ii) in conditions affording inadequate shelter, light or ventilation, or in which, such animal is excessively exposed to heat, cold, weather, sun, rain, dust, exhaust gas, or noxious fumes; or
(iii) without making adequate provision for suitable food, potable water and rest, for such animal, in circumstances where it is necessary; or
n) (Poisoning) without reasonable cause administers to any animal any poisonous or injurious drug or substance; or
o) ……………….
p) (Abandonment) Being the owner of any animal, deliberately or without reasonable cause or excuse, abandons it, whether permanently or not, in circumstances likely to cause that animal unnecessary suffering; or
q) Causes, procures or assists in the commission or omission of any of the aforesaid acts or, being the owner of any animal permits the commission or omission of any such act; or
r) By wantonly or unreasonably or negligently doing or omitting to do any act or causing or procuring the commission or omission of any act, causes any unnecessary suffering to any animal; or
s) Kills any animal in contravention of a prohibition in terms of a notice published in the Gazette under section (3) three of this section,
Shall, subject to the provisions of this Act and any other law, be guilty of an offence and liable on conviction to a fine or the imprisonment for a period not exceeding twelve months or to such imprisonment without the option of a fine.
ANIMAL FIGHTS:
1) Any person who -
a) Possess, keeps, imports, buys, sells, trains, breeds or has under his control, an animal for the purpose of fighting any other animal;
b) Baits, or provokes, or incites, any animal to attack another animal, or to proceed with the fighting of another animal,
c) For financial gain or a form of amusement promotes animal fights;
d) Allows any of the acts referred to in paragraphs (a) to (c) to take place on any premises, or place in his possession, or under his charge or control
e) Owns, uses or controls any premises, or place, for the purpose or partly for the purpose, of presenting animal fights on any such premises, or place, or who acts, or assists, in the management of any such premises, or place, or who receives any consideration, for the admission of any person, to any such premises or place; or
f) Is present as a spectator, at any premises, or place, where any of the acts referred to in paragraphs (a) to (c) is taking place, or where preparations are being made for such acts.
Shall be guilty of an offence and liable on conviction to a fine or imprisonment for a period not exciding two years.
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APPEAL TO ALL POLICE OFFICERS WHO ARE PROUD OF THEIR PROFESSION:
Recently there have been some horrific cases of animal abuse in the news headlines. The two that immediately come to mind are :- The case where a Sundra man slowly hacked off the head of a young Husky puppy with a petrol chain saw, because it killed his pet bird. And more recently - after a truck carrying over 150 pigs jack-knifed in the Eastern Cape, a frantic mob converged, hacking at living flesh, butchering suffering animals whilst still alive. Please see the attached report.
I have been distributing copies of the offences listed under the Animal Protection Act, to police stations throughout the country – most of which I must state, have been received with enthusiasm from officers.
The public believe that police officers are lazy, corrupt, and uncaring – I DON’T.
I believe that there are a large number of police officers who wear their uniforms with pride, and go out of their way to make a difference. I am asking you to help to make a difference in another avenue of your job. You do not have to agree with the law, or agree with the contents of the Animal Protection Act. That is your right as an individual human being, in a free country. YOU DO NOT EVEN HAVE TO LIKE ANIMALS – but please consider the following:-
If you are cut – you bleed: - So do animals! If you are beaten – you bruise – So do animals!
If you are tortured – you are traumatised – So are animals! If you don’t have shelter in the winter, or shade in the sun– you will feel the cold and the heat, and you will suffer! – So do animals! If you are starved – you will die a painful death – So do animals! Animals feel and experience pain, fear, hunger, thirst and suffering! JUST LIKE US! Therefore, even if you are NOT an animal lover – perhaps you could for one minute, just put yourself in their shoes, and as a thinking, feeling, human being, feel compassion for a creature that cannot speak for itself.
The link between animal abuse, child abuse, abuse against women and especially serial killers has been clearly documented, for many years. Many serial killers started off their sick careers, by torturing and mutilating animals. Eventually these sick people progress to committing the same abuse and torture on people (often defenceless children and woman).
If one thinks that OUR children, wives, brothers, and sisters could, at some time, fall prey to such monsters, it might make us think twice, and then consider the Animal Protection Act.
I am not expecting you to become the “animal police” – that would be foolish. What I am asking is that if, in the course of your duty, you come across abuse, or obvious cruelty, (as listed under the APA) you report it immediately to the relevant SPCA. If there is an obvious emergency such as with the recent pig case – it is your duty to intervene immediately until the animal inspectors are there to take over, and it is your duty, to assist them if, and where necessary. What I am asking you to do is to respect the law, and follow it through.
I am asking you, not only to be concerned with laws for rapists/murderers and robbers, I am asking you to consider all laws, and that includes LAWS THAT PROTECT ANIMALS.
The offences listed under the animal protection act are very simple and very clear – and it must be pointed out that it is an offence not to report contraventions of the Act to the SPCA. It is also an offence for an officer not to intervene in an emergency.
Do not forget that people who abuse animals often also abuse people. This is fact! Standing up for something that is right, gives officers another reason to be proud. I would like YOU to prove the public wrong! Prove that we can be proud of ALL officers! Prove that you are willing to uphold ALL OF THE LAWS OF THIS COUNTRY. Let all South Africans work together, and make our wonderful country proud of us. Let us not hang our heads in shame because we couldn’t be bothered, or were too busy, or in too much of a hurry to make a difference!
Louise Thompson :
Mobile - 082-890-0905
Saturday, February 19, 2011
Are Dogs Pack Animals? By Jean Donaldson.
Are Dogs Pack Animals?
Written by Jean Donaldson
Tuesday, 28 April 2009 09:04
When I first got into dog training, the mantra was “dogs are pack animals.” It was never questioned: dogs were strong bonding animals and fit into human families so well, sometimes to the point of developing bona fide disorders like separation anxiety. And a lot of behavior was deconstructed with social hierarchies in mind. Nobody examined what dogs do when they are not inserted into human families, i.e. are free-ranging. So a while ago I took a look at what is known about feral or semi-feral populations of dogs around the world. It turns out there are many such populations.
During the tenure of dictator Nicolae Ceaucescu, a poorly thought out reconstruction effort in Romania resulted in the demolition of thousands of houses and the relocation of thousands of families into small apartments throughout the country. For family dogs, this meant being turned out onto the street, where they have multiplied and eked out a marginal existence ever since.
A sad situation from every possible angle, the explosion of free-ranging dogs in Romania is an unintended experiment that challenges one of the most taken for granted aphorisms in the dog behavior world: that dogs are “pack animals.” The dogs in Romania have not formed packs. Their associations with one another are brief and casual: a couple of dogs may hang out together temporarily and then part company. Dogs are often drawn together by a scarce resource like a food source or estrous female but once this magnet is gone, they go their separate ways.
This contrasts with wolves who, while a genetically identical species to dogs, live in packs. As explained by University of Minnesota biologist David Mech, each pack is a nuclear family consisting of a breeding pair and their offspring. When the offspring reach maturity around two years of age, they disperse to avoid inbreeding depression and, if they live long enough, mate up and start their own packs.
The social lives of Romanian dogs may be the exception that proves the rule, so it’s necessary to examine all free-ranging populations in order to formulate a stronger hypothesis about dog social behavior.
Significant populations of free-ranging domestic dogs exist in sub-Saharan Africa, South America, India, Mexico, Tasmania (Cook Island Dogs), Hawaii, Bangkok and, in a situation paralleling that of Romania, in Moscow. Pariah dogs on the Indian subcontinent are thought to be the longest-running continuous population of feral dogs - on the order of 14,000 years, nearly as long as archaeological evidence has existed for domestic dogs.
There are cases of dogs buddying up with one or more dogs for days at a time, and dogs being drawn into proximity to each other by food sources, however none of the above populations form packs the way wolves do. Males, in fact, do not participate in the rearing of puppies, which is the foundation of a wolf pack. And, scavenging far outpaces hunting as primary food-acquisition activity, another difference from wolves, who hunt.
By contrast, the accounts regarding the social behavior of Dingoes are much more conflicting. Often the same source will in one paragraph say that Dingoes are primarily loners that only occasionally pack up with a few others to take down a large prey item and later state that Dingoes are pack animals with stable hierarchies, a la Gray Wolf. Recent genetics research has allowed for the teasing out of pure Dingoes from Dingo-dog hybrids most of the time. Interestingly, hybrids are often outwardly indistinguishable from pure Dingoes to an untrained eye. So to be generous, it could be that the disagreement between (and within) sources is partially due to some observations being of mixed ancestry animals and some of pure Dingoes.
A colleague of mine who has made trips to the Cook Islands to provide veterinary care to the feral dog population was struck by two things: the large numbers of short-legged dogs, and the absence of social cohesiveness. She fully expected and looked for packs, having heard and parroted for years, as have I, the party line of “dogs are pack animals.” Again and again, she witnessed what Dunbar has termed “loose, transitory associations” rather than packs.
If we are to support our contention that dogs are pack animals, we will need to account for these many populations where dogs, in the absence of the glue of human confinement and husbandry, simply do their own thing.
Written by Jean Donaldson
Tuesday, 28 April 2009 09:04
When I first got into dog training, the mantra was “dogs are pack animals.” It was never questioned: dogs were strong bonding animals and fit into human families so well, sometimes to the point of developing bona fide disorders like separation anxiety. And a lot of behavior was deconstructed with social hierarchies in mind. Nobody examined what dogs do when they are not inserted into human families, i.e. are free-ranging. So a while ago I took a look at what is known about feral or semi-feral populations of dogs around the world. It turns out there are many such populations.
During the tenure of dictator Nicolae Ceaucescu, a poorly thought out reconstruction effort in Romania resulted in the demolition of thousands of houses and the relocation of thousands of families into small apartments throughout the country. For family dogs, this meant being turned out onto the street, where they have multiplied and eked out a marginal existence ever since.
A sad situation from every possible angle, the explosion of free-ranging dogs in Romania is an unintended experiment that challenges one of the most taken for granted aphorisms in the dog behavior world: that dogs are “pack animals.” The dogs in Romania have not formed packs. Their associations with one another are brief and casual: a couple of dogs may hang out together temporarily and then part company. Dogs are often drawn together by a scarce resource like a food source or estrous female but once this magnet is gone, they go their separate ways.
This contrasts with wolves who, while a genetically identical species to dogs, live in packs. As explained by University of Minnesota biologist David Mech, each pack is a nuclear family consisting of a breeding pair and their offspring. When the offspring reach maturity around two years of age, they disperse to avoid inbreeding depression and, if they live long enough, mate up and start their own packs.
The social lives of Romanian dogs may be the exception that proves the rule, so it’s necessary to examine all free-ranging populations in order to formulate a stronger hypothesis about dog social behavior.
Significant populations of free-ranging domestic dogs exist in sub-Saharan Africa, South America, India, Mexico, Tasmania (Cook Island Dogs), Hawaii, Bangkok and, in a situation paralleling that of Romania, in Moscow. Pariah dogs on the Indian subcontinent are thought to be the longest-running continuous population of feral dogs - on the order of 14,000 years, nearly as long as archaeological evidence has existed for domestic dogs.
There are cases of dogs buddying up with one or more dogs for days at a time, and dogs being drawn into proximity to each other by food sources, however none of the above populations form packs the way wolves do. Males, in fact, do not participate in the rearing of puppies, which is the foundation of a wolf pack. And, scavenging far outpaces hunting as primary food-acquisition activity, another difference from wolves, who hunt.
By contrast, the accounts regarding the social behavior of Dingoes are much more conflicting. Often the same source will in one paragraph say that Dingoes are primarily loners that only occasionally pack up with a few others to take down a large prey item and later state that Dingoes are pack animals with stable hierarchies, a la Gray Wolf. Recent genetics research has allowed for the teasing out of pure Dingoes from Dingo-dog hybrids most of the time. Interestingly, hybrids are often outwardly indistinguishable from pure Dingoes to an untrained eye. So to be generous, it could be that the disagreement between (and within) sources is partially due to some observations being of mixed ancestry animals and some of pure Dingoes.
A colleague of mine who has made trips to the Cook Islands to provide veterinary care to the feral dog population was struck by two things: the large numbers of short-legged dogs, and the absence of social cohesiveness. She fully expected and looked for packs, having heard and parroted for years, as have I, the party line of “dogs are pack animals.” Again and again, she witnessed what Dunbar has termed “loose, transitory associations” rather than packs.
If we are to support our contention that dogs are pack animals, we will need to account for these many populations where dogs, in the absence of the glue of human confinement and husbandry, simply do their own thing.
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