SEPTEMBER NEWSLETTER 2009

PAWS NEWSLETTER NUMBER 44 SEPTEMBER 2009

A warm welcome to all Paws Abilities, students, clients and friends!
DONT FORGET OUR ANNUAL FUN DAY

INVITATION
from Paws Abilities!
To Join Our
Annual Fun Day,
“DOG CHALLENGE”.
ALL ARE WELCOME!

WHERE: Paws Abilities Behaviour & Learning Centre
ADDRESS: Plot 72, Fifth Road, Cloverdene, Benoni.
WHEN: 24TH October 2009
TIME: 10:00 AM sharp!
HOW MUCH – R10 per dog
CONTACT US (082-890-0905) louthomp@mweb.co.za
Eats and Drinks will be on Sale!
Fun Prizes and Certificates to be WON!

All you need is a SOCIALISED,
NON-AGGRESSIVE, (controllable) dog!

Here is a glimpse of what awaits you, “Assault course style!”

RALLY OBEDENCE!
Log survivor!

HULA HOOP HULA!



Country agility



MYSTIC MAZE!

Handler hideout!

UP AND UNDER’s!







FROM THE EDITOR:
Well the warm weather has hit us right in the eye! Don’t forget to make sure that your pets have access to clean fresh water.

The hot weather also brings back the ticks and fleas. Remember that Billary fever (tick bite fever) can be fatal to dogs! The only preventative is either weekly dipping, a wide variety of monthly pour on preparations, available from your veterinarian, or if you have lots of time, daily powdering.

Fleas are also on the rise in the hotter months – (remember if your dog has one flea – worms also need to be attended to!) most of the better preparations treat both ticks and fleas.

The last thing that the hot weather brings on are biting flies. The flies bite mainly the ear areas and can cause bleeding and inflammation. There are several different preparations some of which only need to be applied every couple of days.

Dogs also need to be de-wormed regularly – ideally at least every three to four months. The best way to control worms is to clean up after your dog daily! Worms eggs are present in faeces – this is one of the ways worms are spread!.

If in any doubt – please contact your veterinarian who will provide you with the best product for your own dog.


BUYING A NEW PUPPY!
One of the most common causes of pets ending up in shelters or at the SPCA is “impulse buying”! Owning a pet is a lifetime responsibility, and should not be taken on as a whim, an act of sympathy or pity, or collected as a fashion statement or status symbol! So I thought our first article should be about getting a new puppy. In fact, after reading the following article – you might just change your mind, and rush out and buy a guinea pig! (Don’t knock guinea pigs – they make great pets, don’t bite, require minimum maintenance and are cheap to feed!)

SO YOU THINK THAT YOU WANT TO BUY A PUPPY!
Are you in a financial position to be able to afford the “privilege” of buying a “suitable” puppy, and the continued ongoing financial burden of maintaining a dog, bearing in mind that this is a lifetime commitment for up to some 15 years? (longevity is breed specific)
Are you sure that your house and garden (fencing etc) is a safe/suitable environment to keep a puppy/dog?
Are their any other considerations you need to take into account, such as religion, cultural aspects, children with allergies or family health problems etc, which could affect any interactions with the puppy?
Does your lifestyle warrant owning a dog? Do you and your family have the “TIME” and energy it takes to be a responsible dog owner for the next 10 16 years? (Longevity is breed specific) Who is going to be responsible for the care, feeding, grooming, cleaning-up, regular exercising and training of the puppy? Where is the pup going to sleep?
When you are away on holiday/business, where are you going to kennel the dog/puppy?
What breed of pup are you going to choose in order to fit in with your lifestyle and home environment? Where are you going to purchase a dog/pup?

WHY DO YOU WANT A PUPPY? This is not quite as silly a question as it sounds! People buy pets for many different reasons, and you should be very sure of your motivation, that you truly WANT a puppy, and the hassles that come with it. If you are getting a puppy just for the kids – DON’T! Children, as you well know, have very short attention spans; the puppy will be a novelty for a while, and then it starts to grow up……… At some stage the puppy then starts to nip the children’s hands, chews up their toys, becomes more demanding, and without the correct upbringing has the potential to become a damn nuisance! This is the time that most young children seriously start to loose interest!
If you are getting a puppy to teach your children responsibility, DON’T! You know, as a parent, no matter what rules you make, the children are not going to be caring for this pet for the next 10 to 15 years. YOU ARE! So don’t try to fool yourself into thinking that the children will care and look after the puppy, because you know that’s not going to happen.


PUPPIES ARE NOT:
· Puppies are not: - Toys/ playthings to keep the kids occupied. They are creatures with emotions, feelings, and specific needs. They are social animals, needing lots of love, time, and energy and a “genuine long-term life commitment” from their owners.
· Puppies are not: - Future mobile security systems. If you are getting a dog to keep in the yard just to protect your property – DON’T! Rather go out and spend the money and install a good security system. For a dog to “want” to protect your family and property, he needs to feel included as part of the larger group/pack (family). If the relationship is appropriate, and the dog is genetically sound – he will protect you and yours.

· But – if he is kept in solitary confinement, behind four concrete walls with no stimulation and no interaction with your family, and/or isolated from the world at large, then he will have no reason to protect anything but HIMSELF.
· Puppies are not: - A fashion statement! With each new doggie movie that is released, hoards of unscrupulous back yard breeder and puppy mills, mass produce, poor specimens of puppies, for the gullible general public to buy! The fashion changes with each new film release!
Please remember that each dog you see starring in a film, has been specially researched, selected, bred, and trained for the part. It would therefore be illogical to think, that each individual dog of each breed has the same character, nature or is equal in trainability as his film star counterpart!
· Puppies are not: - A child substitute! If you are getting a puppy for this reason, when you become a harassed new mom, what is the position of the dog going to be? Is this pet going to end up in “doggie jail” – condemned for a life alone in the back garden, lonely, rejected, neglected and forgotten?

WHERE TO LOOK FOR A “GOOD” PUPPY? A common query I receive from prospective pet owners, is “Where do I find a “good” puppy?” This is a very tough question, and the most common answer is to look for a “reputable breeder”. On paper, this seems easy enough – a quick phone call to the Kennel Union of Southern Africa, in Cape Town, will provide you a list of individuals who breed pure bred, registered dogs – but, as “breeders” are they all likely to be “reputable”?

WHAT IS A “REPUTABLE” DOG BREEDER:
The breeder must be considered to be the “genetic factory” of the end product!

· A reputable dog breeder, breeds dogs for the betterment of the breed, not to make a fast buck! A reputable breeder does NOT breed a litter, and then try and sell his pups. A reputable breeder will have a waiting list of prospective (screened) owners, BEFORE he even considers a mating. Reputable breeders concentrate on one breed of dog only. A reputable breeder will not permit you to take two puppies at the same time!
· It is a virtually impossible task to bring up two puppies of the same age in one household (whether they are related or not!) – The future inter-canine relationship usually results in one puppy being a “bully” and the other puppy being a “victim”!
· A reputable breeder will let you view and interact, with both the dam (mother) and sire (father) of the puppies, at their own establishment. (They do not meet you at the garage on the highway and tell you that the parents are just lovely!) If the breeder says you can’t have contact with either the dam or the sire. BEWARE! If either the sire, or the dam, is vicious, shy, or nervous – leave! At least 65% of a puppy’s character and general nature is inherited from his parents!!! This means that if the “Cute” puppy has a “Nasty”, “Vicious”, or “Nervous” Mom or Dad, you could well end up with a whole heap of trouble as the “Cute” puppy grows to fill his parent’s shoes!
· A reputable breeder does not need advertise in “Junk Mail” type publications. If his dogs are good, he will have a reputation for good breeding, and good dogs, and people like your local vet, dog trainer, or dog-grooming parlour, will be able to refer you to him.
· A reputable breeder should be able to give you valuable insight and information regarding his breeds history, genetics, and breed characteristics.
· A reputable breeder will give you contact addresses of pups that he has bred in the past, and should encourage you to interact with their owners. He will also have lifetime contact and (responsibility) for and with, the animals that he has bred in the past.
· A good breeder keeps the dog’s environment, clean and free from any flies or other health hazards. All the dogs on the premises should be in good physical condition, clean coats, free of parasites. Often dogs with worms have rough dull coats. If the premises of the breeder do not meet with your standards – leave!

WHERE NOT TO PURCHASE A PUPPY. From the flea market, pet shop, or from the side of the road: Many of these puppies are bred by unscrupulous “Puppy Farmers”, who sell them on to dealers and pet shops/ traders, who then unload them onto the unsuspecting, gullible public! Many “Puppy Farmers” keep random and pure bred dogs. They often allow the dogs to inter-breed producing “mongrels”.

Often kept in appalling conditions, with filthy cages, little or no shelter, and little, or poor quality food. Many are denied basic veterinary care, and most of the pups produced, are sickly, small and unhealthy.

There have also been reports of pups being sold drugged! Many of the bitches are bred with, each and every time they come into “season” (a live puppy factory!) producing as many puppies as possible, in the shortest amount of time, in order to make the most amount of money, with the least input!

WHY NOT GIVE THE “POOR” PUPPY A HOME? It is both normal and natural to want to give a puppy a home because you feel sorry for it – especially if you know it has had a “bad” beginning. Our human maternal and paternal instincts want to nurture and protect. But, by purchasing a puppy that has originated from a puppy farmer, you are actively encouraging, and supporting these unscrupulous parasites of society, I consider the money made from such business to be “DIRTY MONEY,” and feel that stricter regulations should be put into place, to protect both the animals and the public. Until then, it is the public, who through education should actively be encouraged to put them out of business! There is only one sure way to do this, don’t buy puppies from dubious sources!

As most of the puppies are not inoculated, they often spread disease. Many of them are sold sickly, and there have been numerous reports of puppies dying after being with a new family for only a few days! Some dealers actually will give you another puppy if the one dies within a certain period of time, and this is stated in a purchase agreement! Many are bred from behaviourally “unsound” parents. What you see is not necessarily what you get! A large portion of pups from these dealers, end up as unsuitable pets, suffering from inherited behavioural and medical problems (such as hip and / elbow displacia, eye problems or worse!) Most are breed rejects, dogs that would not be accepted by the respectable dog breeding fraternity, and do not conform to registered breed standards, physically or behaviourally. Most are unregistered so that the genetics, both positive and negative are completely unknown.

Now I am not advocating that everyone should rush out and only get pure bred registered puppies. Many mixed bred pups make wonderful companion animals and working dogs, but you must realise, that it is a “pot luck” purchase. Accept that you will not even be able to judge how the pup will look like when it is a “grown-up”, or even accurately judge its future size!
The advantages of buying a registered pup, from registered stock, from a registered breeder, is that you, as the consumer will know exactly what you are getting, in size shape conformation and character.

If you do not necessarily want a pure bred dog with papers, then support your local SPCA/Animal Welfare Agency, or Rescue Organisation, and give one of their “Poor Stray’s” A Good Home! In that way you would be doing Dogdom a service, and saving a life!
You can contact Benoni SPCA at (011) 894-2814/5 or Brakpan SPCA at (011) 742-2007


BASIC STAGES OF PUPPY DEVELOPMENT:
Stages of development may differ slightly with each individual puppy. Breed characteristics need to be taken into account and it should be remembered that each puppy is an individual in his own right! It is also normal to skip one of the stages, or go through another stage more than once – especially if it is a difficult one. Each stage should be worked through with patience and understanding.
The following will give you a general idea of the way a puppy develops behaviourally:

PRE-HOMEING STAGES OF DEVELOPMENT:

Neonatal Period: 1 – 12 Days: The puppy responds to warmth, touch and smell. He can not regulate any body functions such as temperature or elimination.

Transition Period: 13 – 20 Days: The puppy’s ears and eyes are open, but sight and hearing are limited at this stage. The puppy begins to wag his tail, and begins to control his own body functions.

Awareness Period: 21 – 28 Days: The puppy’s sight and hearing are now functioning clearly. He is beginning to learn that he is a dog and has a great need for a safe stable environment.

Canine Socialisation Period: 21 – 49 Days: The puppy learns the various behaviours, which make him a dog. This he learns from interacting with both his mother and his littermates.

Human Socialisation Period: 7 – 12 Weeks: The puppy already has the brain waves of an adult dog (although his concentration skills are somewhat limited). Not only can a young puppy learn, but he will learn, whether you teach him or not! This is the age of really quick learning!!! With most breeds at the end of the seventh week is the best time for going to his new home. The puppy (like a human baby) has a very short concentration span, and all play or learning should only be for a few short minutes at a time.

First Fear Impact Period: 10– 12 Weeks: This is sometimes called the “Fear of New Situations” stage, and all frightening, or traumatic experiences should be avoided at all costs, for they can have lasting permanent effects. All learning should be play or food related and should be kept fun.

Continued Canine Socialisation Period: 7 – 16 Weeks: The foundation is now being laid for his future social skills. Socialisation with his own kind, age, humans and other species of animals, (must be good experiences) is vitally important to develop his social skills.

Second Fear Impact Period: 4 – 5 Months: At this stage the puppy often goes through another fearful phase – it is often a nervousness of what the pup perceives to be new things, or new situations. He also sometimes has his first minor challenge to his owner’s commands, which should be downplayed as much as possible!!! Any challenge should be worked through, making as little fuss about any negative behaviour as possible. Reward all positive behaviour and ignore or distract any negative behaviour.

First Serious Learning Period: 5 – 7 Months: This is when the puppy is really at his best, and is showing his “Will to Please” you. This should be taken full advantage of. You should take extreme care that you do not put the puppy under too much stress or pressure, or give him too much responsibility (status) in the pack. Keep all learning light and fun at this stage. Play learning, and informal fun learning/training in a positive safe environment, using only positive reinforcement at this stage is needed.

The First Major Fear Impact Stage of Development Period: 7 – 8 Months: Suddenly many pups react negatively to familiar things. Suddenly the dustbin is a monster, the post box develops teeth! One theory is that up to this stage, the puppy’s view is almost in outline vision. It is very possible that at this stage, the pup’s vision begins to become clearer, which would explain their sudden negative reaction to things previously taken for granted! Quit actual training for a while if necessary, or simply lighten up and play some more, relax! Certainly don’t put the pup in a situation/environment where he could be frightened/have bad experience. Learning at this stage is permanent! A bad experience at this stage could have PERMANENT effects.

The First Real Obedience Learning Stage: 8 – 10 Months: This is the time to start revising all the early learning and begin to formalise his education, but beware of putting the pup under too much pressure, as he needs to have a crystal clear comprehension of all lessons to date, before going on to the next stage of development.

The “Prime” Learning Stage: 10 – 12 Months: This is often considered the stage of development where the dog soaks up learning like a sponge (information, commands, life-skills etc.) At this stage (if the early bonding and relationship is appropriate) the dog will have a natural desire to please you and be constantly looking up to you for affirmation. Reward all positive behaviour and ignore any negative behaviour. This stage of development needs lots of encouragement and reward based learning from the owners.

The “Clarity” Stage: 12 – 14 Months: At this stage you must again be certain that the dog has a full comprehension of all commands and learning. Before the dog can progress to the next stage of learning a good foundation is needed to avoid any confusion later on.

The “Difficult Teenage” Period: 15 – 18 Months: This is often called the “Stage of Challenge or Conflict”. The dog version of man’s “Terrible Teenage Stage”. Cool it with formal training; make sure the dog is not under any pressure. Reward only positive behaviour and ignore/distract any negative behaviour. Try not to overreact to behaviours or conflicts at this stage. Confrontation will make it worse.

The “Drive” Stage: 18 – 24 Months: This is the stage when all your hard works pays off! This is the stage when it all really starts to come together. Consistency with him at this stage is vital in order to keep the good foundation that you have laid.

PUPPY SOCIALISING AND LEARNING CLASS –
THE PUP SHOULD ATTEND FROM 7 WEEKS OLD!

Handlers and pups are taught to work together – not against each other! It is important that “baby” training begins at this early age to avoid serious problems later on. At puppy socialising groups’ owners are taught how to be good pack leaders. Pack leadership is something that the handler learns through training, and also through specific exercises, each designed to teach a pup who is in charge in a non-conflict, non-aggressive manner. They are taught that through co-operation comes respect. All learning is achieved through positive reinforcement and reward based methods of learning. No yelling, no choke chains, no formal “heelwork” etc. Formal work is for much older mature pups.


HOW TO GET YOUR DOG / PUP TO WALK “POLIETLY” ON A COLLAR & LEASH:
In the past, most training methods used, involved force, making the animal conform and submit to our will, sometimes using brutal inhumane methods. The end-result was often a dog that was terrified of the leash and training, and often associated the entire unpleasant experience with the handler! The dog would in time come to view his handler with distrust or fear, because of the negative association with unpleasant experiences. In short these methods create a dog that probably will never be a happy worker, or enjoy the joy of even a simple walk in the park! Dogs that experience this kind of negative learning often end up as timid/fearful creatures, cringing when called, and unable to cope with pressure. Why do so many dogs end up like this? Because the learning is based on FEAR as the motivation! Today we usually accept that this type of rough, thoughtless handling is unacceptable.

YOU WILL NEED: A calm RELAXED handler (with a sense of humour) and a suitable collar for the pet. The first collar should not be too thick or heavy but made of light, soft flexible material. NOTE: Training collars often referred to as choke or check chains should NEVER be used on a young pup. The delicate tendons and ligaments in their necks are not fully formed, and any yanking or jerking could cause permanent damage. If trained correctly from an early age – the use of a check chain should never be necessary!

# Don’t let the dog think this is a big deal. Be calm and relaxed – never begin to work the dog or try to practise after a bad day at the office!
# Smile!!! The dog quickly learns to read your body language and facial expressions, in fact he does this far better than you as a mere human! This is after all, how dogs communicate among themselves. We have found that dogs respond positively to the accompanying body language of a human smile & dogs soon learn to associate the “smile” with praise and reward!
# Don’t comfort the dog/pup if he appears anxious or fearful – Dogs perceive comfort as praise – and you don’t want the dog to think he is being rewarded for being neurotic! If you must respond, laugh! It is hard to look concerned when you are laughing – the dog/pup will view this as a sign that all is well!
# Perfect the first step or stage before moving on to the second. Remember – this is supposed to be FUN!
# Put the collar on the dog/pup at meal times or when playing, so that he can associate the feel of it with a rewarding experience.
# Once he is unconcerned about wearing a collar, then you can attach a thin piece of line to the collar, long enough to drag a bit on the ground. - (under supervision in case the line gets stuck) Do not worry if the dog appears to be concerned, or refuses to move. Only reward him when he appears unconcerned. Repeat this until the dog is confidently moving freely on his own accord.
# Once he is coping with dragging the piece of string attached to his collar, simply pick up the end of the string and follow him around the garden. Repeat this until he appears calm & happy.
# Gradually put a tiny bit of pressure on the collar, simultaneously popping him a treat. This should be repeated until the dog/pup appears unconcerned. Once confident you can start to make the decisions which direction you want to go.
# You may now begin to short walks. Do not walk past barking dogs at gates, or he will learn to view other dogs with distrust and fear which could develop into defensive aggression. In the early stages, you do not want him to have a bad experience, which could have lasting effects. Rather pop him in the car and drive to the park, where you can lure him out of the car and make walks fun! In order to make the experience positive and lasting you can take a toy and some treats and anything else that the dog values and make sure that you make it FUN!

QUESTION:
When I take my dog/pup for a walk on the leash he nearly pulls me over!

ANSWER:
Pulling on a leash is unacceptable behaviour and should not be permitted. It is not fun to be dragged through the park at 90 miles per hour. Dogs that do this have no manners! It is a show of disrespect (in a pack you either lead or follow) – The dog is taking over the decision making – he is also exhibiting high status behaviour by pulling; BUT remember walks are not to be used for heelwork sessions – remember to give your dog lots of sniffing opportunities! On walks he should be allowed to have some fun, but not have bad manners!

The easiest way to stop a dog or pup from pulling on a leash is to STOP, stand dead still and WAIT! The second the leash is slack then you can continue on your walk. The dog/pup will soon learn that if he wants to be rewarded (to go walking), he has to walk in an acceptable position. In the beginning take a good book with you on your walk in the park.

Every time the leash is tight, slam on brakes, whip out the book, and start to read. In this way you will not be tempted to make eye contact with the dog (which would encourage the behaviour, as any reaction from you is rewarding to the dog)

Also don’t give him commands (again the dog would perceive as a reward). Only start to walk again once the leash is slack!

For the first week or so, you may only manage a few steps a day, (but you might get through your latest novel!) If you stick to your guns - this method works and the effects are long lasting as long as you are always consistent!

The most stubborn dog I ever worked with took 18 days of daily walks: On the 18th day, this dog (a husky) leaped out of the car at the park, charged to the end of the leash (with the owner not responding at all) and as he got to the end of the leash, the dog applied brakes – and on his own accord, turned and looked at his owner, then REVERSED UNTIL THE LEASH WAS SLACK!!! He had worked it out himself! In other words the dog had worked out that if he wanted to go for a walk his leash had to be slack! The motivation for a walk was stronger than the motivation to forge ahead. If at any time the dog regresses – repeat the above (just to remind him) and he will soon get the message!

EQUIPMENT USED TO RESTRAIN DOGS:
There is no need to go to extreme lengths of cruel check or choke chains, pinch or electric collars to keep a dog under control. Kind humane equipment is now available, specially designed for pulling and other difficult dog problems. A dog head-collar eliminates pulling by some 80% (if used correctly) by simply controlling the dog’s head. This is a wonderful piece of gentle equipment (works in a similar way to a horse halter). The dog does need to be gradually desensitised to wearing it, but unlike the old fashioned collar and leash method, is never jerked. Most people need a bit of guidance into the correct use, although if used correctly it is exceptionally kind, inappropriate use though, could cause injury. Another piece of equipment for those who are too lazy to teach their dogs to walk at “heel” is a special harness that is available which puts a small amount of pressure on the dogs’ sternum inhibiting forging, ideal for novices and beginners as it cannot be misused.







QUESTION:
When my pup/dog and I have walked a few meters he just lies down and refuses to move on. Sometimes he also rolls over on his back in a gesture of refusal to move. How do I get the pup/dog to walk a bit further?

ANSWER:
Start with very short distances, building up the distance bit by bit. Do not attempt to drag, force or cajole the pup/dog to move, we want the pup/dog to make his own decision to follow on the walk. If he stops and refuses to move on, turn your back on the pup/dog and do nothing! Wait it out – I have yet to see a dog or pup stay in one spot long enough to grow roots! This apparent stubbornness is often caused by people who have pulled or dragged pups on the leash, put too much pressure on the leash or the dogs neck, or that the animal has learnt that if he lies down his doting owner will pick him up and carry him – don’t!


Q & A (QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS)

QUESTION:
What in an animal feels a stimulus on its body, such as being touched, or pricked with a pin, or shocked with electricity, what part of its brain shows a response, as indicated by it brain waves?

ANSWER:
A simple pin prick or a touch of a finger tip on the throat elicits a response in the brain's sensory centre associated with that spot on the throat. In other words, the brain's response is "discrete." On the other hand, an electric shock's effect is not discrete...... it travels non-discretely through nervous system, affecting not just that part of the sensory brain associated with that spot on the throat. As one bright student of neurophysiology puts it... "the whole brain lights up."

In one human experiment many years ago, a group of above average college students were asked to identify whether a mild electric shock to their forearm occurred after the appearance of circles or after hexagons flashed on a screen a few feet in front of them. The circles and hexagons were presented in random order. The students failed accurately to identify which shape was followed by the shock!

Moral: This should be considered before using electric shocks, even "mild" ones, to train any animal (or human).
QUESTION:
Approximately how many health and physical problems have been associated with aggressive behaviour problems in dogs?
A. 5
B. 9
C. 15
D. More than 15

ANSWER:
D. Amazing, but it's more than 15.

QUESTION:
You have adopted an adult dog (18 months old) from a rescue organization. Where should you have the dog sleep at night?
A. In a crate.
B. In the service porch.
C. In your bedroom.
D. In a dog house in the back yard.

ANSWER:
Keeping in mind that these dogs, like foster children, can be feeling insecure about their new membership in your group, it's best to have them sleep in circumstance that are reminiscent of the time in their lives when they felt totally secure; i.e., sleeping with their dam and litter mates. Therefore, place their bed in a bedroom where a person, or people are sleeping. Sleep in nearly "infectious" to dogs, which will usually fall asleep, and remain asleep, all through the night.
QUESTION:
A cat approaches you with its tail raised nearly straight upward. What is it likely signalling?
A. Friendliness
B. Caution
C. Dominance
D. Impending aggression

ANSWER:
A. Friendliness.
Cats signal that they're relaxed and feeling friendly both to other cats and people by elevating their tails. Pity the poor Manx cats, with only a stub tail! However, cats also blink as a show of friendliness.

QUESTION:
When a tidbit is shown to a dog, causing the dog to start salivating, in classical (Pavlovian) conditioning terms, how is the salivation response properly classified?
A. An Innate Response?
B. An Unconditioned Response?
C. An Acquired Response?
D. A Conditioned Response?

ANSWER:
D. A conditioned response. C would have been OK, too, since Pavlov also used it. :-)
Ivan Pavlov described experiments by Dr. Zitovich, a Russian scientist. Several young puppies were taken away from their mothers prior to weaning and fed only milk until they were a few months old. He then showed the pups meat or bread. They did not salivate! It wasn't until the puppies had eaten bread and meat several times that they began to salivate when they simply saw the food. So, see-food-salivate is not an unconditioned, but a conditioned response!

This conditioned salivary response posed some problems for Pavlov, who wanted to measure dogs' unconditioned salivary reflexes, which don't involved the brain's cerebral cortices, i.e. "those little grey cells," as detective Poirot described them. To accomplish this, he surprised the dogs by suddenly thrusting meat into their mouths. They began to salivate in 1 to 2 seconds.

However, when his dogs were shown food, the conditioned salivation didn't begin until 5 seconds had elapsed. In spite of this difference, Pavlov simply treated salivation at the "sight or smell of food" as a reflex, but he called it a "conditioned" reflex, whereas salivation when food is suddenly put into an unsuspecting dog's mouth was termed, quite correctly, an "unconditioned" reflex.

QUESTION:
What mental state causes most of the behaviour problems in pet animals?

A. Fear
B. Anger
C. Anxiety
D. Spite
E. Love
F. Frustration
G. Hate

ANSWER:
F. Frustration is at the root of nearly every behaviour problem in pets that are in 100% robust health. The cause for the frustration, in healthy dogs, is invariably found in social problems within the human/pet relationship; or in structural problems, especially in birds and exotic animals. Once the pet owner discovers and appreciates the cause(s) of the frustrations, then the anger, fear, anxiety, etc. behaviourisms, which are only symptoms of the basic problem, can be effectively cleared up. In fact, in many cases, the behaviour problems just disappear.









Please let me know if you are able to attend our annual fun day. We have been busy preparing new equipment, inventing really exciting, challenging new games and making and fund raising lots of prizes!

You don’t need a highly trained (competition trained) dog – but basic good manners and some basic obedience will certainly be an advantage. Non-social / aggressive dogs are not permitted.

It would be great for you to join us. We would love all surrounding dog schools, from near and far to come and join in the fun and games. Please could you provide us with an idea of numbers for catering purposes etc.

Please also extend our invitation to all and any dog schools you know, as we would love it to become a community annual event.

Cheers for now
Louise

Mobile 082-890-0905
louthomp@mweb.co.za
Consulting Rooms (011) 969-4467