PAWS AUGUST NEWSLETTER 2009

Paws Abilities Behaviour & Learning Centre
Newsletter Number 43 – August 2009.

RECENT CLUB NEWS
A warm welcome to all our Paws Abilities students, behaviour clients, family, and friends.

I am thrilled to report back that our Good Citizen Test was a HUGE success, and we received a 100% pass rate. I would firstly like to take this opportunity to thank Paul Lakin our Kennel Union judge, ably assisted by Mr Andrew Sayer and Mrs Julie Sayer. Guys, without you the afternoon would not have been the resounding success it was. A huge vote of thanks to you all for giving up your Saturday afternoon for us.
We really appreciate it!

Congratulations to the following students who obtained their K9 Good Citizen Test. Please do not forget to collect your certificates and rosettes from the office.
Fleur – Handled by Sandy Juno – Handled by Nicole
Chelsea - Handled by Brenda Jessie – Handled by Glenda
Katie – Handled by Jan Nunu – Handled by Brenda
Tequila – Handled by Jessica Napoleon – Handled by Andrea
Crystal – Handled by Rose Cola – Handled by Yolind
Angus – Handled by Tiffany Chinook – Handled by Jacqui
Kaai – Handled by Lorna Pip – Handled by Denise
Dodge – Handled by Siobhan Harry – Handled by Louise
Ben – Handled by Judy Tyla – Handled by Bronwen
Hector – Handled by Emma Holly – Handled by Doug
Zuzi – Handled by Mandy Lucy – Handled by Ian
Angie – Handled by Brian Saxon – Handled by Barry
Hamish – Handled by Nicolette Dereece – Handled by Leigh
Shadow – Handled by Jacqui Barat – Handled by Lucia
Lilly – Handled by Tania Samson – Handled by Penny
Duke – Handled by David Lilly – Handled by Cindi

Another vote of thanks goes to all the Paws Abilities instructors whose good work shows in the above results! Thank you one and all, for all your hard work!


FORTHCOMING EVENTS
A date has now been set for the next class evaluation. It is to be held at the Paws Abilities Behaviour & Learning Centre grounds on the 26th September 2009. The evaluations will take place during normal training hours. Please speak to your instructor to find out just what your class’s evaluation will entail. All evaluations will be relevant to what is being taught at each level. Successful students will be promoted to a higher level. Certificates will be awarded for successful students and dogs.

PUPPY SCHOOL EVALUATIONS
The Early Puppy Education Group’s testing / evaluations are ongoing and undertaken when each individual puppy and handler are ready. Upon completion, a certificate is awarded and the successful student and pup are then promoted to the next level or stage in their dog-training career which is the Puppy Three Group, held at 10:00 AM each Saturday morning.

FUN DAY
PLEASE ACCEPT THIS INVITATION TO JOIN US AT 10:00 AM
ON SATURDAY THE 27TH OCTOBER 2009 FOR A DAY OF FUN IN THE SUN!
We would like to extend this invitation to any dog training schools who would like to join us.
This is to be held on the 27th October, commencing at 10:00 AM ALL ARE WELCOME

INVITATION TO ALL LOCAL AND SURROUNDING DOG SCHOOLS!
We would like to extend this invitation to all the dog schools in the area to join us for a day of fun and games. It is a wonderful opportunity for all the schools to get together in the spirit of friendship and camaraderie. Our aims are all the same and it would be such fun for us all to get together!

The public are also welcome – the only criteria is a socialised non-aggressive dog, under control.
For any more details please contact Louise at (011) 969-4467 or mobile 082-890-0905
You can also e mail Louise at louthomp@mweb.co.za

ü There is a small entry fee of R10 per dog
ü Eats and drinks will be on sale
ü Prizes and certificates to be won

In the past, we have hosted this very popular annual event and after several requests, we have now decided to hold it twice a year. As we hold so many classes, which are spread out over each Saturday, (11 classes each Saturday – different levels, different disciplines) many of the students never get a chance to meet each other. The fun days are a wonderful way to meet the rest of our school, and of course for the dogs to get to socialise with dogs outside their comfort zone.

THIS IS GOING TO BE A FUN DAY WITH A DIFFERENCE!
We have devised a day of fun and exciting games in a brand new format. There will be ten stages each manned by an instructor or senior student. Entrants will receive a card with all the exercises listed which will be filled in at each station. Entrants will either pass or fail (time faults on some of the exercises) As each exercise / station is completed the entrant then moves onto the next section – rather like an assault course – only much more fun.

So far, the following have been put together.

TANGLE ROPE 2. FUN AGILITY COURSE
HANDLER HIDEOUT 4. DISTRACTION TEST
MAZE 6. LOG “SURVIVOR”
RALLY OBEDIENCE 8. WATER RETRIEVE
HOOP ON A LINE RETRIEVE 10. UP AND UNDER
HULA HOOOP HULA


PRACTICAL AND THEORETICAL WORKSHOPS
As we are in the last quarter of 2009, these have been moved forward to early next year.
We will keep you informed of subject matter, dates, costs etc. We have some really super ideas up our sleeves and would welcome ideas and input from you all. Should you have any subject, training or behaviour topic you would like covered please let us know.

Again you can contact Louise at (011) 969-4467 or louthomp@mweb.co.za or mobile 082-890-0905


ARE THEY FIGHTING -- OR PLAYING?
By Dr Dennis Fetko.
How can you tell if dogs are fighting or playing? They do the same things -- snarling, growling, biting -- they just don't mean it seriously when they're playing. Dogs playing are very similar to wrestlers or boxing sparring partners; I do not want you beating on me, but neither of us wants to seriously hurt the other. You vigorously try to defeat your opponent but you are not trying to cripple or kill him. If a dog injures a playmate, play -- and all its benefits -- stops.

Often the main difference between play and a fight is degree. It is especially difficult to tell if the owners have seen few vigorous play sessions and have never seen a real dog fight.

Vigorous play benefits dogs a lot. However, dog play is very martial. It is not just play, its play fighting. They use play and other interactive dynamic behaviours to sharpen survival skills. No matter why you got on the floor with your dog -- to pet, brush, tussle, massage -- the dog will often begin to play-fight you.

When two dogs vigorously play, it looks like they are trying to hurt each other. But if one dog vocalizes severe distress or injury, play usually stops immediately. Dogs can deliver multiple bites per second and can inflict serious wounds with each bite, so seeing a growling dog bite another's leg 10 times in 5 seconds without drawing blood means PLAY!
Since they can puncture skin with every bite, if two dogs spend more than 20 seconds in vigorous "combat" with all the growling and snarling and mouthing and neither is bleeding or screaming or injured or struggling to escape, they're playing! In a fight, if one vocalizes distress, the other continues with more emphasis because he has just been told he is winning.

Play can progress to a real fight. If one hurt the other in play and didn't lighten up when the injured dog tells its distress, the injured dog can get real serious because it's convinced it's in danger. Fun play suddenly becomes deadly battle.

Bite location is another play clue. Dogs that are fighting usually strive for the opponent's neck or abdomen. Dogs play-fighting will "bite" any body part they can grab! However, it takes an experienced eye to tell the difference between vigorous play and fighting because it's shades of grey, not black or white.

You often see one dog on its back while "fending off" the other's attack. This is a strong sign that they're playing. Lying on its back is the most submissive posture a dog can show. If this were a fight, neither would offer lethal targets to the other that way.

One way to tell fight from play is to blatantly interrupt it by yelling loudly or blowing a whistle. If it stops, it was likely play. If it's impossible to stop, it's likely a fight. So you see the action, become concerned, and call out, “HEY! KNOCK IT OFF!" and they do. Praise both and encourage further play. This tells both dogs that they were correct in respecting your interruption and correct in playing vigorously. Now they know that they both enjoy play and so do you, so it's more likely to be repeated due to multiple reinforces. If they do not stop, break up the fight!

Wise owners teach a word for play. "Play" is a poor choice if you also use "Stay" as a command or "Hey!" as a reprimand. Dogs are vocal, not verbal, so all three words are the same noise to them. Consider "Fun" or “Go Play”, "Game" or "Sport" or “Let’s Go”, anything else in any language -- just don't use a word that sounds like another important word to your dog. Now, when the dogs are playing, you have a word to use in praise; you are reinforcing the act of play and not confusing the dogs when you say: "Good 'game'!” Having a word for play gives you a means to get them playing when they're together. "Hey, Rover, here's your buddy! Game!" or "Fun!" or whatever word you choose. Giving "play" a name encourages them to play by using the word to mean “It's time to have fun! And we all LOVE you having fun this way!"

By doing that, you replace dangerous anti-social behaviours with pro-social play sessions because they know what to do, and that doing it benefits them. You have taught them what the word means and they know they will be reinforced for doing it and its fun to do. Fewer fights and more play. Success is yours -- and theirs.
"In dog training, 'jerk' is a noun, and not a verb!"


HIGH ENERGY DOGS:
Energy is fundamental to the survival of any living thing, be that the fastest cheater or the most slovenly sloth. All creatures process their energy in different ways, ways that are best for the type of life they lead. Dogs are quite high on the scale when it comes to the most energetic animals, and certain dogs are much higher on that scale than others are.

The reason that dogs such as Dalmatians, Jack Russell’s, Border Collies, and Retrievers are so abundant with energy is because they all have a high metabolic rate. Which means they process nutrients into energy very efficiently. The metabolic rate dictates how quickly or slowly nutrients such as fat and carbohydrates are processed into energy. The metabolic rate also controls the body heat of the dog, it maintains it at a constant 101.5-102 degrees. At its slowest, the metabolic rate will enable the body to perform basal functions such as heart repair and digestion, if the metabolic rate slips below this rate for any reason, the dog will begin to die.

As a rule, the certain breeds of dog which are notoriously high in energy are difficult to train and are constantly testing the patience of their owner. This does not have to be the case.
Given the right amount of training and attention, these dogs can prove to be the most effective working dog and the most loyal companion.

Regular exercise is a must for these dogs, otherwise they will take it upon themselves to exercise inside the house or worse, fail to burn of any of the energy and become obese.
Mental stimulation is also essential to prevent boredom. Always have a good supply of strong, long lasting chewy toys to avoid constant trips to the shoe shop. If you have a retriever, then encourage him to retrieve things when you play. If you have a high-energy dog of any kind encourage him to do what he was bred for, this is a good combination of mental and physical stimulation.

A good diet is essential for these dogs. Presumably, the owners of such dogs would consider the high-energy factor an asset rather than a hindrance and therefore would want to nurture this. Although they seem to have enough, a high-energy diet is essential to their good health, they need the energy to burn of the fats. They need lots of carbohydrates and protein to store as energy and animal fats to use as quick energy.

Given the right exercise, training and diet the high-energy dog will be the ideal companion for the high energy family, or even an averagely active family.


USE AND ABUSE OF TREATS IN TRAINING
Treats are supposed to be used as reward for work well done. They are most definitely not supposed to be used when the dog begs for them... This is not only a matter of me not liking that you "spoil your dog" with too much love (I don't think there is such a thing as "too much love"), but because it destroys your relationship with the dog!

Let us look at the classic example: You sit in your chair and watch a good movie. The dog is bored. It wants some attention. You don't have time for that right now. When the dog pushes your hand with its nose, you get a little annoyed, but your soft heart also bleeds a bit - you feel sorry about the dog not enjoying the show too - so you give it a treat and say, "go, lie down". The dog takes the treat and eats it, leaving you alone for a little while.

What is wrong with this picture? Isn't everybody happy?
Well, how about this picture then: You go to your chair, preparing for the movie you want to watch. Your dog follows you. When you sit down, it pushes your hand to get a treat. You ignore it. It pushes again. You say, "go, lie down" - but the dog does not go away. It pushes your hand. You get a little angry. Now the dog puts a paw on your lap, demonstratively, and pushes your hand with its nose. You are a little ticked off now, so you tell the dog to lie down again. It doesn't. It scratches your thigh with its paw, pushes your hand with the nose, and when you still ignore it, it sits right in front of you and barks at you, as it jumps up at you and pushes your hand with its nose....
The only difference between these two stories is the time that has elapsed from the first to the second. Because, what you inevitably will get out of repeating the first is the second!

Here are your "Four Boxes" that explain it:
Command
Sight of you in your chair in front of the TV
-->Incitement
The dog is bored
- it wants some attention and you are the only pack member around
-->Reaction
The dog uses a natural begging gesture (nose-nudge against your hand)
-->Reward
The dog gets a treat...

And what will come out of this sequences when repeated just 4-6 times?
Yes, you got it! This:
Command
Sight of you in your chair in front of the TV
-->
-->Reaction
The dog uses a natural begging gesture (nose-nudge against your hand)
-->Reward
The dog gets a treat...


Further: when you have "worked on" the above result just a few times, you can leave out the reward in the end 5-10 as many times as the "training" took you - and you will still have some remains of your training survive... However, if you try to resist giving the reward, and the dog now insists on getting its treat, and you then try to "buy some peace" with a treat ("Okay, okay, okay - you get a treat, but then you have to leave me alone!"), you are really in deep trouble - because now you are rewarding the dog's persistency and continued nagging for its treat, ignoring your first refusal! In addition, just for the record: dogs do not
barter like that - they just learn from their experience - and the experience in
this case was that persistency pays off...

Now - if the only consequence of a less-than-perfect training method like this would be that you could not watch TV, I probably would not care.... (I do not watch TV myself...). However, the consequences are far worse....
This is what you get:
Command
You want to watch TV
-->Incitement
The dog wants a treat
-->Reaction
You give the dog a treat
-->Reward
You get to watch TV

A very common mistake when using treats for training. Treats are good when used as reward. No doubt. They can also be very good when used as incitement! There are many exercises where you can have great use of a treat as both the reward and the incitement.

Example: Getting the dog to put the bum on the ground. The treat can be a great reward. In addition, if you move it right up to the dog's nose and then slightly upwards-backwards, 95% of all dogs will sit down when trying to follow the treat with the nose. (This is the famous "treat zipper" - referring to the zipper-like movement with the hand when you want the dog to sit at your side when practising "Heeling".)
The problem with using the treat as incitement, however, is that few people think about what the command now becomes... And that's where they get trapped!

Here is how it goes: you prepare yourself for the exercise. You pull your treat out. You give your command. You then use the treat zipper. The dog performs - and you reward the dog with the treat.
Great, eh?
Not so! Look at the sequence of events one more time....In the first place, yes - you will get the result you want: the dog will learn to perform on your command.... But it won't last long. The reason is here:

Command
The dog notices your treat
-->Incitement
You give the command
-->Reaction
The dog performs
-->Reward
The dog gets a treat

Oops - right? This is the inevitable result of this training when the incitement
makes itself redundant:

Command
The dog notices your treat
-->
-->Reaction
The dog performs
-->Reward
The dog gets a treat

From here to extortion, like in the TV scene, is a very short time....

Avoiding this is simple, though - when you understand the Four Boxes. You just do not pull out that treat until after your command! Then the unwanted training sequence will never take place. Your dog will instead learn to respond reliably to the command - and you will get a result that is not depending on "bribing" the dog with the treat first. ("Bribing" is really nothing but having taught the dog to use the smell of the treat as command - not your word or sign...)
"Bribing" is, of course, a despicable result that has very limited use. No blame on those trainers that don't want that kind of result of their training! But I hope you also see that this is not a matter of using treats or not using treats. It is a matter using treats right - or misusing them.


CHERYL MAY'S QUICK FIXES FOR OBEDIENCE SCORES
Cheryl first prepared this as a handout for a workshop she did for a group of advanced 4-H dog handlers. she wrote a much more extensive article on this topic, complete with judges' comments about the handler errors they see most often, for the 2002 Popular Dog series publication.

Successful obedience showing is the result of many hours of solid work with your dog. However, there are a few things you can quickly fix that will help you get better scores. These include improving footwork; fixing handler errors; and decreasing your own nervousness in the ring.

How to improve heeling
Be consistent. Keep moving. Stay out of the way of your dog. You are the team leader and must give timely and correct signals to the dog. Practice correct footwork without the dog. Then, when you are working with your dog, your improved footwork will come naturally. Correct footwork gives the dog a better chance to be right because he "sees" a signal before the change of direction. There are several methods that work very effectively. The important thing is to select one method that works well for you and your dog and stick with it for now. Some modifications might need to be made as you and your dog progress in the training process due to how fast the dog works and the size of your dog. Practice walking in a straight line by walking on lines in a parking lot, or lining yourself up with floor tiles in a long hallway.

The first step of heeling
Starting on the left leg: Probably best for the slower or less attentive dog. Starting on the right leg: Probably best for the fast, ready to go dog. This start has a tendency to keep the dog in more of a straight line when beginning to heel and avoids a bump on the first step.

Modifications:
The length of the first step of heeling depends on how fast the dog works and the size of the dog. Don't leave your dog behind because you took too big a step!

Halts
Feet: It is best to teach the dog to stop whether you plant the left foot and bring the right foot up or vice versa. (Note: the "plant" of the foot should be a soft one.) The length of the last step as you plant your foot depends on the size and speed of your dog.

The signal: What happens naturally when you stop walking? If you are clipping along in a hurry to get somewhere and must suddenly come to a halt, your upper body leans back just before you stop. In training, exaggerate the lean as you plant your foot so your dog "sees" a definite signal before you stop. As time goes on, drop the exaggeration and just have the slight natural lean.

Change of pace
Just as in the halt where there is a natural backward lean to slow your forward motion and change your centre of balance in order to change to a slower pace, so too is there an opposite natural lean in order to speed up. When you start to go faster, there is a natural forward lean to change your centre of balance and collect yourself as you move out briskly. Exaggerate these leans in practice. Then gradually wean the dog off the exaggeration to the natural.

Left and right turns
Round off your corners slightly. Rounded corners are much more smooth and natural looking than military style 90-degree turns. You can signal the turn on either your left or right foot by swivelling your foot slightly before you actually begin the turn. Practice both because sometimes the dog will dictate which signal works best for your specific team.
Keep in mind that you must signal the dog before you actually turn, so you must initiate the turn in a straight line, then turn. Shorten your stride slightly through the turn and gradually move back to a normal pace.

Figure 8
The dynamics of this exercise dictate the footwork. You must maintain a consistent pace and distance around each post. Your dog should do the work changing pace - not you. There are things you can do to help your dog: Make sure you walk a straight line through the middle of the figure eight. In training, teach your dog "easy" and "hurry." Exaggerate these speeds in your training session so your dog learns and understands the pace changes he will have to make.

About turn
This is the most difficult turn to execute well. You must be able to maintain your consistent pace through the turn while staying out of the way of the dog. Teach this exercise by luring the dog around the turn with a treat. Treat when he reaches heel position, if he has executed the turn quickly and accurately. Make a game of it. A very fast turn earns the dog a bite of cheese or liver. A good turn earns the dog a bite of kibble. A slow turn earns nothing. You might say, "too slow, too bad." I do not believe that corrections or pulling the dog around the turn are effective in speeding up about turns. Keep training positive and make it fun for your dog.

Footwork for the about turn
Step 1. When judge calls "about turn," place your left foot in a "T" with your
right foot.
Step 2. Pivot with your right foot.
Step 3. Small dogs. Bring your left foot around and step out in the new direction. Your step must be shorter for a small, or a slower moving, dog.
Step 3. Large dogs. Bring your left foot around and step out in the new direction. Use a larger step for a large dog, or one that moves very quickly around the turn.

When I learned that I was going to be making the presentation to the 4-H group,
I asked other members of obed-teach, an e-mail list comprised of obedience instructors, for their "quick fixes”. Here are their tips.

Handler nerves
Practice deep breathing exercises (away from your dog) and repeat this mantra: "I am having fun; I am doing this for fun; this is what I do for fun; this is fun." Bev Watson

A friend of mine has a mantra she repeats to conquer "ring nerves." She's even set it to a cadence that matches her heeling. "I will float around the ring like smoke." Jill Morstad

Arrive in plenty of time. Keep track of when you show. Prepare to warm your dog up with a little heeling just before it is your turn in the ring. Mary Jo Gallagher

Getting into heel position to start
Always line up to start an exercise with a half or full circle to the left with a sit command as you come to a halt. Follow with praise. This gets the dog into the correct position with a minimum of fussing, gives you a chance to praise your dog, and makes you both feel more confident at the beginning of the exercise. Margie English

Recall
When you leave your dog for a recall, walk away with confidence and mentally mark the place at which you will stop and turn, not on a dime, but close to it. Bev Watson

Stand for exam
Make sure you have your hands off the dog when you say "stay." Lots of people do this and fail for a double command. Edell Marie Schaefer Be sure to leave the dog from heel position and return completely to heel position after the exam. Mary Jo Gallagher

Heeling
Keep moving at a brisk pace. Don't look back for the dog. Keep your feet together and keep moving on turns. Command, pause, move. Watch the heeling pattern and know it before you go in the ring. Don't over train the night before the trial. Concentrate on your dog. Roger Greenwald

In addition, a final few words - Have fun. Be a good sport. If you win, don't gloat. If you lose, don't complain (at least not in public.) Most important of all you should APPRECIATE your dog.


SAY YES TRAINING REMINDERS

1. Work=play=work. All play is fun and so all work should be as well. If your dog makes a decision during play (example he grabs his toy without being invited to do so) you are reinforcing his right to make decisions during working with you as well (ahh, maybe I will chase the cat rather then practice A Frames right now!).

2. POSITIVE does not equal PERMISSIVE. This is the guiding principle of Say Yes Dog Training. You must be consistent. If a behaviour is acceptable at home (example the dog choosing not to lie down when told) it is also acceptable during work. Approach training and home life with a patient disposition and a strict application of what is and is not acceptable. Training happens 24 hours a day 7 days a week; your dog is always learning regardless if you are actively training or not!

3. Behaviours are shaped by CONSEQUENCES. Be aware of what is reinforcing your dog. Review and alter
your list of reinforces as your dog grows up, specially the “activities that reinforce”
section.

4. Use your RECALL, to evaluate your relationship with your dog. Be diligent at making improvements each day in the level of intensity your dog has for working with you. Work at building a better relationship with your dog rather than making excuses for his performance. Work with the dog on the end of your leash -- and turn him into a dog other people wish they had!

5. Be aware of what RESPONSE you are rewarding each time you give out a cookie or toy. What did you click—did you see eyes? Did you want to see eyes when your dog is performing that skill? What did you intend to reinforce? Does the dog know?

6. VIDEO at least one training session every second week. More if possible. If progress isn’t as fast as you
think it should be for one particular skill, video three or four consecutive training sessions of that one skill
(each video clip should be no longer than 3-7 minutes). Review each video individually upon completion – then view and evaluate the entire series. What did you reinforce? Can you pick out why your session isn’t
progressing as fast as you would like? If you can’t critique it yourself, ask a friend to review it with you.

7. THINK, PLAN, DO, REVIEW (Bob Bailey). Plan your work and work your plan. Time your session or count reinforcements so you don’t train your dog to exhaustion. Do not begin to train until you have worked
through your mechanical skills and planned where you will deliver your rewards. Keep your training session
short! After each session, write in a journal recording your progress and plans for future sessions. Do what
will assist you reaching your goals; do not get wrapped up in “finishing as sequence or exercise”. Do what is
best for your dog!

8. MIX UP YOUR REINFORCEMENTS so that you are working with toys and food. Only offer a reward you know your dog will want. Once a reward is offered, do not accept your dog not taking it. You can use food to reinforce an attempt to play (or the other way around) but never use food to reinforce a dog that has declined the opportunity to play or decided to stop playing. What would you be rewarding? Of course you would have rewarded your dog for making the decision to NOT play you (and remember work=play).

9. Whenever frustration sets in remind yourself that “YOUR DOG IS A MIRROR IMAGE OF YOUR ABILITIES AS A TRAINER”. Only when you take ownership of your dog’s shortcomings will you be able to turn them into attributes.

10. CLICK FOR ACTION REWARD FOR POSITION. (Bob Bailey) If your dog barks after each click and you feed them, what are your reinforcing? When initially shaping or re-training skills. it is important to deliver your rewards as soon as possible after the click (1-3 sec) – remember the reward reinforces everything the dog does between the time he hears the click and when receives his reward.

11. Train to IMPROVE YOUR WEAKNESSES. All of us tend to practice what we are good at, or the dog we find easiest to train, it is reinforcing for us.
If there were exercises you felt uncomfortable with this weekend it could be a result of a weakness in your current training program. Be sure to work short sessions on the skills you are not as graceful at performing.

12. Bob Bailey attributes training problems to: timing, criteria or rate of reinforcement. Have someone observe your timing with your clicker, alter your criteria so your dog can succeed and keep your rate of reinforcement as close to 70% as possible.

13. Cheap responses once rewarded will always be lurking (Bob Bailey). Be aware of ‘what else’ your dog may be doing when you click him for a desired response (i.e. barking).

14. Are you a double L? (…a lurer & a lumper) Your dog’s lack of progress may be due to your not “splitting” the desired behaviour into small enough responses. Be certain you are returning the hand that delivers the
treat back to starting position after each rewarded response. Work to create a “thinking” dog not a dog that
needs to be prompted by you before he can begin his work.

15. YOU CAN’T HAVE SPEED WITHOUT UNDERSTANDING. Got D.A.S.H.? If you are working many new environments and you start each session with the maximum amount of “D”, the “S” will come once you have the “A” Do not try to make your dog be fast until he first understands how to be correct without prompts or lures from you.

16. WHAT IS YOUR CRITERIA? Identify it, learn it, work it live it. Maintain criteria, ALWAYS. The easiest thing to do is to train a behaviour. It is a far, far more difficult thing to do to maintain your criteria for the
life time of your dog. That is what makes a great trainer.

17. Don’t ever ignore your dog while training. If you are getting further direction or clarification from an
instructor, tug with your dog or, hold his collar & stroke him or put him into a relaxed position or in his crate. What ever you do, do not finish an exercise and turn away from your dog to talk to an instructor; it shows a lack of respect for your canine partner. Your dog should always be recognized for his effort to work with you.

CLICKER TIPS - BEHAVIOUR AND EMOTIONS ARE CONNECTED By Morten Egtvedt The relationship between behaviour and emotions can be very interesting. If you’re happy (emotion), you smile (behaviour). More interesting, however, is the fact that if you can only manage to smile (no matter how upset you are), your mood will improve as well.That doesn’t mean I am going to suggest that we teach angry dogs to wag their tails on cue, but there are actually other examples of how we can use this principle to our advantage in dog training.
Some weeks ago I received an e-mail from Dina. She was having the following problem: Every time she tried backing up (while heeling) her dog went completely nuts. She would bark, get very stressed and generally go a bit ballistic. Dina's dog, Zibyl, is an excellent (clicker trained) Giant Schnauzer - but she has the kind of temper only a woman can have, and would be a challenge to handle for anyone.
Dina backing up had obviously become a conditioned stimulus for ”getting really stressed”. The question was how to turn this around.I suggested the following training plan: 1. Go for a looong walk – the dog should be tired before you start training backing up.
2. Then find a wall to train next to (to make it easy for Zibyl to back up correctly) – if she backs up better without the wall, don’t use it.
3. Get in position with Zibyl between you and the wall, but DON’T back up yet. Instead click for her standing calmly between you and the wall. When you click, drop the treat in front of her on the ground. Click and reward in this way 4-6 times, and make sure that you act very calmly.
4. When you see that she is calm, take one step backwards. Click if she backs up, click and drop the treat on the ground in front of her.
5. Then repeat 3-5 clicks + treats on the ground before you try backing up one more time.
6. Back up (a bit further than the last time). Click and reward (still dropping the treat on the ground) if she backs up.
7. Then repeat 2-4 clicks + treats on the ground before you try backing up again. Gradually increase the distance you back up, and decrease the amount of ”freebie treats” between repetitions when they are no longer needed to keep the dog calm.
NOTE: Always stop training if you see that she’s getting excited – go for a short walk, then go back to the wall and start back at step 1. It is very important that Zibyl does not get the opportunity to become upset in connection with backing up any more times. Every time this happens, the problem gets worse. Therefore, stop training as soon as she gets upset (if she is acting up, but much less than usual, you can keep going as long as you can see that it’s getting better for every rep (and not worse)). Give me some feedback on how this is working. If you see an improvement we can keep building on this.
Explanation of the training plan The reason Dina is supposed to train while Zibyl is relatively calm is obvious. It is important to condition a low level of stress to backing-up training in order to turn the vicious circle around.But why is it so important to reward by tossing treats on the ground? The answer is that emotions and behaviour are connected. Sniffing the ground (for the treat) and being stressed are incompatible (just like being upset and smiling don’t go together). Hence, by getting Zibyl to sniff the ground (which is also a calming signal) we are also contributing to her becoming calmer.
I have earlier used the reward procedure of tossing treats on the ground between the dog’s front legs in exercises like the crawl and long down, in which a low level of stress is also appropriate with. It seems to have a much more calming effect on the dogs to sniff out the treat on the ground, than to have them served by hand. We have also earlier used treat searches in connection with training away the fear of gunfire. The same principle is probably the cause of success in this case as well.
By the way, it’s also great to reward by tossing treats on the ground when you are rewarding the dog for behaving nicely around other dogs. Then the other dog will think that your dog is giving out calming signals, and so both of them will become calmer. I recommend the book Click to Calm for more tips on these lines. Two days later I received a nice e-mail from Dina: "IT’S WORKING!!" :-)


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Best Regards
Louise
louthomp@mweb.co.za
mobile 082-890-0905
www.animal-behaviour.org.za