Paws Abilities Behaviour & Learning Centre
Doggy Valentine Day
FOR A FUN AFTERNOON! ENTER OUR MINI CROSS-COUNTRY EVENT
WHEN? 12th February 2011 from 1: 30 PM
WHERE? Paws Abilities Behaviour & Learning Centre. Benoni.
Plot 72. Fifth Road. Cloverdene. Van Ryn Smallholdings. Benoni.
WHO? ANYONE with a well-socialised non-aggressive dog is WELCOME!
Dogs must be on leash and under control.
ENTRANCE? R20 Donation per person. Includes a fun Valentine gift for each pampered pooch
REFRESHMENTS? Hot Dogs & Cold Drinks on Sale
ON SALE? Lots of fun doggy and people stuff on sale!
CONTACT? Louise Thompson 082-890-0905 (011) 969-6103 louthomp@mweb.co.za
HOPE YOU ARE ABLE TO JOIN US
HAPPY DOGGY VALENTINE DAY!
Friday, January 28, 2011
Friday, January 21, 2011
e mail address
Hi Everyone
It appears that the link doesnt seem to be working. You are welcome to mail Animal Custodians at:-
animalcustodians@gmail.com
Hope you are able to get through - any problems please let me know
Cheers for now
Lou
It appears that the link doesnt seem to be working. You are welcome to mail Animal Custodians at:-
animalcustodians@gmail.com
Hope you are able to get through - any problems please let me know
Cheers for now
Lou
Monday, January 17, 2011
P.S ON ANIMAL CUSTODIAN ALLIANCE
Sorry All,
Forgot to add please send the address etc to as many people who you think will join us
Thanks a million
Lou
Forgot to add please send the address etc to as many people who you think will join us
Thanks a million
Lou
Animal Custodian Alliance
If you love animals (and I am sure that you all do - or you probably would not be on my blog lol!) click on this link http://custodians.wordpress.co to register and JOIN - I have, and most of my animal loving friends have as well!!!
There is so much that we can all do and if we stand together we are STRONG - the more people who align themselves the more power we have and the more we can change - from the top down.
You will receive regular feedback etc and can be as involved or not as you like!
Come on TOGETHER WE CAN MAKE A DIFFERENCE!!
There is so much that we can all do and if we stand together we are STRONG - the more people who align themselves the more power we have and the more we can change - from the top down.
You will receive regular feedback etc and can be as involved or not as you like!
Come on TOGETHER WE CAN MAKE A DIFFERENCE!!
Sunday, January 16, 2011
HOT SPOTS - A NATURAL SOLUTION!
Hi Guys! Could be something to do with the weather, but we seem to be seeing lots of hot spots at the moment at the school. I have tried the natural solution below and was very impressed. What do you think???
Cheers for now Lou.
HOT SPOTS
By Doctor Andrew Jones:
I am starting to see more 'Hot Spots' again- The Veterinary name is: Acute Moist Dermatitis. I was pleased to try out a new remedy that worked well- and it was in my kitchen. Here is some of what's in my book
SIGNS
A very itchy, smelly, oozy area on the skin. There may be more than one spot. They often form on the face and at the base of the ears. They are often very painful.
CAUSES
The technical name for a hot spot is acute moist dermatitis. They are a local area of bacterial infected hair follicles. They form most often during the warm summer months. Any scratch or wound can cause the skin to become infected and develop into a hot spot. Most hot spots are secondary to some type of skin allergy.
SOLUTIONS
REMOVE THE HAIR. This is the most important thing to do in order to allow hot spots to heal.
Use a pair of blunt nosed scissors to trim as much hair as possible on and around the spot.
If you have clippers use them for trimming.
These can be very painful and some dogs will not let you trim much hair.
CLEAN THE AREA. Use a mild, non-perfumed antiseptic soap (Hibitane) to clean the skin.
Gently dab it on the spot, lather up and rinse well.
A CUP OF TEA. The key to curing hot spots is to get them to dry out. A very effective antiseptic drying solution is tea and aspirin. Brew up a strong cup of black tea and dissolve an aspirin tablet in it. Soak a cloth in this brew and apply it to the area for 5 minutes four times daily.
And my new Remedy...
Apple Cider Vinegar.
It can be applied directly to the Hot Spot- 4 times daily. I soaked it in a cloth and wiped the clipped area. It has anti- bacterial and anti-inflammatory properties.
As an aside, it is also high in potassium, making it beneficial for older, sometimes potassium deficient pets. As well, it can be consumed orally (after all it is fermented apples) - and it can give your pets an overall immune boost.
P.S. The MOST common cause of recurring Hot Spots is ONE thing.
Underlying Allergies. And the best way to decrease your pets Allergic response. Essential Fatty Acids. In high enough doses to be beneficial.
Cheers for now Lou.
HOT SPOTS
By Doctor Andrew Jones:
I am starting to see more 'Hot Spots' again- The Veterinary name is: Acute Moist Dermatitis. I was pleased to try out a new remedy that worked well- and it was in my kitchen. Here is some of what's in my book
SIGNS
A very itchy, smelly, oozy area on the skin. There may be more than one spot. They often form on the face and at the base of the ears. They are often very painful.
CAUSES
The technical name for a hot spot is acute moist dermatitis. They are a local area of bacterial infected hair follicles. They form most often during the warm summer months. Any scratch or wound can cause the skin to become infected and develop into a hot spot. Most hot spots are secondary to some type of skin allergy.
SOLUTIONS
REMOVE THE HAIR. This is the most important thing to do in order to allow hot spots to heal.
Use a pair of blunt nosed scissors to trim as much hair as possible on and around the spot.
If you have clippers use them for trimming.
These can be very painful and some dogs will not let you trim much hair.
CLEAN THE AREA. Use a mild, non-perfumed antiseptic soap (Hibitane) to clean the skin.
Gently dab it on the spot, lather up and rinse well.
A CUP OF TEA. The key to curing hot spots is to get them to dry out. A very effective antiseptic drying solution is tea and aspirin. Brew up a strong cup of black tea and dissolve an aspirin tablet in it. Soak a cloth in this brew and apply it to the area for 5 minutes four times daily.
And my new Remedy...
Apple Cider Vinegar.
It can be applied directly to the Hot Spot- 4 times daily. I soaked it in a cloth and wiped the clipped area. It has anti- bacterial and anti-inflammatory properties.
As an aside, it is also high in potassium, making it beneficial for older, sometimes potassium deficient pets. As well, it can be consumed orally (after all it is fermented apples) - and it can give your pets an overall immune boost.
P.S. The MOST common cause of recurring Hot Spots is ONE thing.
Underlying Allergies. And the best way to decrease your pets Allergic response. Essential Fatty Acids. In high enough doses to be beneficial.
Wednesday, January 12, 2011
Fireworks blow Johannesburg man apart
Note from Lou
Hard not to express my true feelings – except that Karma is a bitch!
http://www.news24.com/SouthAfrica/News/Fireworks-blow-Jhb-man-apart-20090924
Fireworks blow Jhb man apart
2009-09-24 22:52
Johannesburg - A man was blown into pieces by prohibited fireworks that went off at the Crown Mine factories, south of Johannesburg, on Thursday, emergency services said.
The man's torso was found 70 metres from the scene while one of his legs was found on top of a 30 metre high factory, said spokesperson Percy Morokane.
"It is a very messy situation. His body was blown apart ... body parts are strewn all over. It is going to be very difficult to identify him... his face was blown apart," said Morokane.
Two men who were with the man who was killed allegedly fled the scene following the explosion at around 12:30.
The fireworks believed to have caused the explosion are called 14 inch cake shells and they are prohibited in the country, said Morokane.
It was not yet known how the man acquired the fireworks nor what he was doing at the industrial area as the factories were closed for business.
But eyewitnesses, including a manager of one of the factories told emergency services workers that they saw the man, along with two others walking between the factories shortly before the explosion.
'Massive explosion'
"It was massive. It was heard about 8km away from the scene and even people in Riverlea - 5km from the scene - said they heard the massive explosion, followed by two minor ones," said Morokane.
Two factories caught fire following the explosion and three trucks were damaged in the fire but fire fighters managed to put out the blaze.
"Both factories have minor fire damage," he said.
Johannesburg police could not immediately confirm the incident.
"I'm still trying to figure out what happened... please call me later," said Inspector Lunga Mahonga.
- SAPA
Tuesday, January 11, 2011
The Size of A Dog's Tail Messes up Dog Language!
The Size Of A Dogs Tail Messes Up Dog Language
By --Con Slobodchikoff
We all know that dog tails communicate information to other dogs and to people: happiness, friendliness, playfulness, fear, aggression, and status.
But what happens when the tail is artificially shortened (docked)? Are other dogs affected by this tail shortening? In the United States at least, more than one third of all dog breeds have traditionally had their tails docked. What does this is do to dog body language?
This is been a difficult question to answer scientifically because experiments have been so hard to perform. If you're using live dogs with short and long tails to study this question, you have a lot of factors other than tail length that could confuse the issue. You have all kinds of body scents, ear positions, general body posture, and behavioural interactions that can modify the response of other dogs to short or long tails.
A recent behavioural tool has been to use robots to study the behaviour of other animals. With a robot you can test for specific things, such as a short tail versus a long tail on a dog, and everything else stays constant: the robot is still the same size, stays in the same position, doesn't have any confusing smells, and doesn't engage in any behaviours that could modify the response of an approaching animal.
Using a robot, a study has recently looked at the effect of short and long tails on the approach behaviour of other dogs (Leaver, S.D.A. and T.E. Reimchen. 2008. Behavioural responses of Canis familiaris to different tail lengths of a remotely-controlled life-sized dog replica. Behaviour 145:377-390).
The experimenters did this study in a place where there are a lot of off-leash dogs in Victoria, British Columbia, Canada. They used a robot about the size of a Labrador retriever, and attached to the robot either a short tail (9 cm or 3.5 in) or a long tail (30 cm or 12 in). Using a servo mechanism, they could make the tail either wag or stand still. They videotaped the approaches of 492 off-leash dogs and assessed the conditions under which the dogs either freely approached the robot or hesitated in their approach.
They divided the approaching dogs into two categories: smaller dogs (those whose shoulder was below the shoulder of the robot) and larger dogs (those whose shoulder was above the shoulder of the robot).
They found that the dogs differed in their approach to a short tail versus a long tail.
Both larger and smaller dogs tended to approach the robot without hesitation when the robot had a long, wagging tail, and tended to hesitate more when the long tail was motionless. We might expect this because a wagging tail generally signals friendliness while a motionless tail can signal potential aggression.
On the other hand, both larger and smaller dogs seemed to have a difficult time determining whether the short tail was wagging or still. Both the larger and smaller dogs tended to approach either the wagging short tail or the still short tail at about the same rate, a rate that was below the rate of approach for a long wagging tail and above the rate of approach for a motionless long tail.
It was as if the dogs couldn't see the difference between a wagging short tail or a motionless one and had to make a guess as to whether to approach or not.
So it seems that tail docking does introduce some confusion into dog language, making it more difficult for dogs to determine whether a dog with a short tail is friendly or potentially aggressive.
Fortunately for dogs, the practice of tail docking seems to be decreasing in frequency, allowing more dogs with normal-sized tails to be able to accurately communicate their intentions to other dogs.
Monday, January 10, 2011
GROUP DOGGIE PLAY – RULES AND GUIDELINES:
GROUP DOGGIE PLAY – RULES AND GUIDELINES:
This is a post by guest author Nancy Frensley, CPDT, CAP2, who is Manager of Behaviour and Training at the Berkeley-East Bay Humane Society in Berkeley, California. She writes periodic posts about the behavioural challenges and joys of shelter dogs.
One of first things adopters from our shelter, Berkeley East Bay Humane Society, want to do is take their dogs to a dog park. It’s easy to assume that all dogs both want to play with other dogs and have the right temperament and social skills to do so. However, everyone will benefit by considering a few things before beginning this particular adventure.
Until puppies reach maturity, between the ages of eighteen months and two years, most of them enjoy playing with other dogs. Good dog play can teach young dogs valuable lessons. Play enhances bite inhibition, develops communication skills, and maintains friendly responses to other dogs. As they mature, most dogs become less universal in their desire to play.
Even though some parts of each puppy’s play style are inherited, each of them goes through distinct developmental periods during the first two years of life in which social and play styles are formed.
Puppies (under four months) can be very rude but are generally tolerated by adult dogs as well as their human parents. Between the ages of about five and eighteen months, almost all puppies start to push their boundaries with both people and their own kind. In addition, puppies experience distinct “fear periods” during this time of their lives.
Unsupervised play as well as harsh corrections can cause pups to develop fear as well as the inappropriate play styles of chasing, body slamming and persistent wrestling; styles that can lead to aggression problems.
Most dogs reach full maturity at about two years. After that, they are less likely to engage in play with dogs they don’t already know and may become more reserved with people as well. Most are content, at this point, to play with previously established dog friends. Sometimes, they lose their desire to play with dogs entirely.
Dogs adopted as adults have often had limited social exposure and may never enjoy playing with other dogs.
From the very first day, you should carefully monitor all your dog’s playtimes. By supervising, you can shape your dog’s play style for the rest of his life. The most important part of supervision is being able to recognize when play is appropriate and when it is not. The second most important part is being able to interrupt questionable or inappropriate play and call your dog away before it goes bad.
There are three kinds of dog play—good, questionable, and totally inappropriate. Here’s how to tell them apart:
Good dog play.
You don’t need to interrupt this play. The dogs are monitoring themselves.
•Play is balanced. There is a lot of give-and-take. Both dogs are clearly having fun.
•Dogs have loose, relaxed bodies, and their movements are silly and inefficient-looking.
•Chase games exhibit a sense of sharing. But, if one dog is being chased into hiding or is becoming
defensive, interrupt the play.
•Both dogs are making friendly play gestures. These include play bows, turning and hitting with the
hips and both dogs stopping when things get too rough.
Questionable dog play.
You should always interrupt this play before it goes too far. Any of the following behaviours can lead to a fight.
• Wrestling can be appropriate but is questionable and should be interrupted if more than two dogs are involved, or if one dog is always on the bottom.
• Tug-of-war if one or both dogs become possessive.
• Stalking postures: These postures are not play behaviour. A stalking posture is significantly different from play bow and is often the first stage of a body slam.
Rude and totally inappropriate dog play.
This “play” is not play at all; it is aggressive behaviour and must always be stopped. After you intervene you have a good opportunity to play one-on-one with your dog while he settles down. Rude behaviours are:
• Neck biting and collar grabbing.
•Excessive barking and harassing another dog. Rude puppies often do this relentlessly at adult dogs
that do not want to play.
• Body slamming. This is only fun for the slammer.
• Pinning. Bull breeds do this routinely, but others do it, too.
• Mounting other dogs. Both males and females do this and it is almost guaranteed to start a fight.
• Snapping. A dog that is scared or aggravated may snap; so may a dog that is guarding a toy or a
bone.
• Standing in a “T” position (head over another dog’s shoulders). This is never play; it is always a
challenge. Don’t let it happen at all.
• Ganging up. Two or more dogs ganging up on one.
• General over arousal, resulting in a case of the crazies, growlies, or snappies.
If you cannot call your dog away quickly and effectively as soon as play becomes questionable use
a long line (20’-30’) and practice calling your dog with rewards every day. Once you call your dog
away from play, give him time to calm down before releasing him to play again. If your dog has
gotten into a scuffle, stop all interactions with other dogs for the remainder of the outing.
It’s everyone’s responsibility to supervise their dogs to keep play friendly.
This is a post by guest author Nancy Frensley, CPDT, CAP2, who is Manager of Behaviour and Training at the Berkeley-East Bay Humane Society in Berkeley, California. She writes periodic posts about the behavioural challenges and joys of shelter dogs.
One of first things adopters from our shelter, Berkeley East Bay Humane Society, want to do is take their dogs to a dog park. It’s easy to assume that all dogs both want to play with other dogs and have the right temperament and social skills to do so. However, everyone will benefit by considering a few things before beginning this particular adventure.
Until puppies reach maturity, between the ages of eighteen months and two years, most of them enjoy playing with other dogs. Good dog play can teach young dogs valuable lessons. Play enhances bite inhibition, develops communication skills, and maintains friendly responses to other dogs. As they mature, most dogs become less universal in their desire to play.
Even though some parts of each puppy’s play style are inherited, each of them goes through distinct developmental periods during the first two years of life in which social and play styles are formed.
Puppies (under four months) can be very rude but are generally tolerated by adult dogs as well as their human parents. Between the ages of about five and eighteen months, almost all puppies start to push their boundaries with both people and their own kind. In addition, puppies experience distinct “fear periods” during this time of their lives.
Unsupervised play as well as harsh corrections can cause pups to develop fear as well as the inappropriate play styles of chasing, body slamming and persistent wrestling; styles that can lead to aggression problems.
Most dogs reach full maturity at about two years. After that, they are less likely to engage in play with dogs they don’t already know and may become more reserved with people as well. Most are content, at this point, to play with previously established dog friends. Sometimes, they lose their desire to play with dogs entirely.
Dogs adopted as adults have often had limited social exposure and may never enjoy playing with other dogs.
From the very first day, you should carefully monitor all your dog’s playtimes. By supervising, you can shape your dog’s play style for the rest of his life. The most important part of supervision is being able to recognize when play is appropriate and when it is not. The second most important part is being able to interrupt questionable or inappropriate play and call your dog away before it goes bad.
There are three kinds of dog play—good, questionable, and totally inappropriate. Here’s how to tell them apart:
Good dog play.
You don’t need to interrupt this play. The dogs are monitoring themselves.
•Play is balanced. There is a lot of give-and-take. Both dogs are clearly having fun.
•Dogs have loose, relaxed bodies, and their movements are silly and inefficient-looking.
•Chase games exhibit a sense of sharing. But, if one dog is being chased into hiding or is becoming
defensive, interrupt the play.
•Both dogs are making friendly play gestures. These include play bows, turning and hitting with the
hips and both dogs stopping when things get too rough.
Questionable dog play.
You should always interrupt this play before it goes too far. Any of the following behaviours can lead to a fight.
• Wrestling can be appropriate but is questionable and should be interrupted if more than two dogs are involved, or if one dog is always on the bottom.
• Tug-of-war if one or both dogs become possessive.
• Stalking postures: These postures are not play behaviour. A stalking posture is significantly different from play bow and is often the first stage of a body slam.
Rude and totally inappropriate dog play.
This “play” is not play at all; it is aggressive behaviour and must always be stopped. After you intervene you have a good opportunity to play one-on-one with your dog while he settles down. Rude behaviours are:
• Neck biting and collar grabbing.
•Excessive barking and harassing another dog. Rude puppies often do this relentlessly at adult dogs
that do not want to play.
• Body slamming. This is only fun for the slammer.
• Pinning. Bull breeds do this routinely, but others do it, too.
• Mounting other dogs. Both males and females do this and it is almost guaranteed to start a fight.
• Snapping. A dog that is scared or aggravated may snap; so may a dog that is guarding a toy or a
bone.
• Standing in a “T” position (head over another dog’s shoulders). This is never play; it is always a
challenge. Don’t let it happen at all.
• Ganging up. Two or more dogs ganging up on one.
• General over arousal, resulting in a case of the crazies, growlies, or snappies.
If you cannot call your dog away quickly and effectively as soon as play becomes questionable use
a long line (20’-30’) and practice calling your dog with rewards every day. Once you call your dog
away from play, give him time to calm down before releasing him to play again. If your dog has
gotten into a scuffle, stop all interactions with other dogs for the remainder of the outing.
It’s everyone’s responsibility to supervise their dogs to keep play friendly.
Human Unrealistic Expectations!
I found this delightful article whilst going through some old files. I have absolutely no idea who wrote this little gem, but am glad to be able to share it with you all!
What are "good dog manners"?
• Willing, eager, compliant, smart, mannerly.
• Listens and follows directions.
• A dog who is easy to live with and fun to take everywhere with you.
People expect their dogs to act more like humans than canines. The behaviour we want from them often goes against their nature.
They must learn to accept restraint, allow handling and grooming, crate quietly, eliminate in the correct places, stay alone for hours on end and chew only on acceptable objects and respond reliably to cues. They need to learn to allow people to safely take things away from them, including food and toys. If you give a dog a rawhide and he chews it down to the point that you fear he may choke on it, you'll need to be able to take it away from him. Dogs must learn to accept limits and have impulse control. Food and items within reach do not automatically belong to them.
They must be still when they'd rather wiggle, come away from things they'd rather keep investigating, wait when they'd rather go, walk gently on a loose leash instead of ploughing ahead with all their might, and sit for petting when they'd rather get up close and personal. They must keep their opinions to themselves when they'd rather pick a fight. They must wait for permission and say please. They must be patient. This is the essence of a well-trained dog.
We often expect our dogs to abandon their doggy view of reality, in favour of our own. When people act like dogs, dogs must remember we are humans and not treat us like dogs. They must not give in to the impulse to chase and leap when children squeal and run. They must inhibit the force of their bite when playing and remember that people don't like slobber.
When people break all laws of doggy etiquette, dogs must make allowances for their lack of social graces and learn that threatening body language isn't always meant to be so. We expect them to tolerate the clumsy and invasive treatment of our children.
Some of our expectations are not so reasonable from the dog's point of view.
We expect our dogs to monitor their own impulses in our absence: to resist that loaf of bread left on the counter or not shake and kill that towel left dangling from the cupboard door; deny themselves the blissful activities of digging deep holes in the moist earth under our manicured lawns. We expect them to choose only allowable sticks and resist the sweet stems of our prize roses, even when left unsupervised for hours in the yard with no prior instruction. We expect them to know the difference between our children's toys and their own.
We don't appreciate their bravery when they kill the evil snakes that are attached to the sprinklers in our yards. We yell "shush" when they announce intruders on the sidewalks bordering our territory but still expect them to defend us and our homes. At the same time they should know not to bite the person who comes every day to rattle the mailbox on our house or read our meters but chase off only those who sneak into our garage and touch our stuff.
We expect a LOT from our dogs!
A satisfied dog is one who has a job and feels useful and appreciated.
Dogs like to feel important. They enjoy being needed. Generations of breeding dogs to perform tasks have made this part of their very being.
Dogs love learning. Life is an experiment. Unfortunately, many people expect dogs to be model citizens with little or no education, supervision or guidance. People come to class believing dogs should "know better" and even attribute lapses in the above to "blowing them off" or "getting back at the owner."
Everyone wants Lassie without realizing how many hours and hours of ongoing, continuous training that Rudd Weatherwax put into making that dog look so perfect on screen (or the number of re-takes it took to GET each shot!) It was his full-time job!
The saddest thing of all, is that there are still books in print and advice modelled and passed down from grandma to mom to child that advocate "catching them in the act" and "showing them who's boss." People "rub their noses in it" throw things at them, thrash them with rolled newspapers and euthanize them when they don't live up to their expectations. It's unfair and totally unreasonable.......................
What are "good dog manners"?
• Willing, eager, compliant, smart, mannerly.
• Listens and follows directions.
• A dog who is easy to live with and fun to take everywhere with you.
People expect their dogs to act more like humans than canines. The behaviour we want from them often goes against their nature.
They must learn to accept restraint, allow handling and grooming, crate quietly, eliminate in the correct places, stay alone for hours on end and chew only on acceptable objects and respond reliably to cues. They need to learn to allow people to safely take things away from them, including food and toys. If you give a dog a rawhide and he chews it down to the point that you fear he may choke on it, you'll need to be able to take it away from him. Dogs must learn to accept limits and have impulse control. Food and items within reach do not automatically belong to them.
They must be still when they'd rather wiggle, come away from things they'd rather keep investigating, wait when they'd rather go, walk gently on a loose leash instead of ploughing ahead with all their might, and sit for petting when they'd rather get up close and personal. They must keep their opinions to themselves when they'd rather pick a fight. They must wait for permission and say please. They must be patient. This is the essence of a well-trained dog.
We often expect our dogs to abandon their doggy view of reality, in favour of our own. When people act like dogs, dogs must remember we are humans and not treat us like dogs. They must not give in to the impulse to chase and leap when children squeal and run. They must inhibit the force of their bite when playing and remember that people don't like slobber.
When people break all laws of doggy etiquette, dogs must make allowances for their lack of social graces and learn that threatening body language isn't always meant to be so. We expect them to tolerate the clumsy and invasive treatment of our children.
Some of our expectations are not so reasonable from the dog's point of view.
We expect our dogs to monitor their own impulses in our absence: to resist that loaf of bread left on the counter or not shake and kill that towel left dangling from the cupboard door; deny themselves the blissful activities of digging deep holes in the moist earth under our manicured lawns. We expect them to choose only allowable sticks and resist the sweet stems of our prize roses, even when left unsupervised for hours in the yard with no prior instruction. We expect them to know the difference between our children's toys and their own.
We don't appreciate their bravery when they kill the evil snakes that are attached to the sprinklers in our yards. We yell "shush" when they announce intruders on the sidewalks bordering our territory but still expect them to defend us and our homes. At the same time they should know not to bite the person who comes every day to rattle the mailbox on our house or read our meters but chase off only those who sneak into our garage and touch our stuff.
We expect a LOT from our dogs!
A satisfied dog is one who has a job and feels useful and appreciated.
Dogs like to feel important. They enjoy being needed. Generations of breeding dogs to perform tasks have made this part of their very being.
Dogs love learning. Life is an experiment. Unfortunately, many people expect dogs to be model citizens with little or no education, supervision or guidance. People come to class believing dogs should "know better" and even attribute lapses in the above to "blowing them off" or "getting back at the owner."
Everyone wants Lassie without realizing how many hours and hours of ongoing, continuous training that Rudd Weatherwax put into making that dog look so perfect on screen (or the number of re-takes it took to GET each shot!) It was his full-time job!
The saddest thing of all, is that there are still books in print and advice modelled and passed down from grandma to mom to child that advocate "catching them in the act" and "showing them who's boss." People "rub their noses in it" throw things at them, thrash them with rolled newspapers and euthanize them when they don't live up to their expectations. It's unfair and totally unreasonable.......................
Thursday, January 6, 2011
Weight Pulling - What is your Opinion?
Weight Pull: A Positive Introduction
By Katherine Ostiguy on 01/01/2011
Weight pull is year-round fun!
Are you and your dog looking for something new and different? Have you been wishing for a fresh activity to learn with your dog, something that can be started even in the cold winter months? Canine weight pull is a competitive sport offered by three organizations in the United States: the United Kennel Club (UKC), International Weight Pull Association (IWPA), and American Pulling Alliance (APA). Although the rules differ from group to group, the general idea is the same in each venue. A dog, wearing a specially-designed harness, pulls a weighted vehicle a distance of sixteen feet in sixty seconds or less. Dogs earn qualifying scores, championship points, and other awards based on the percentage of their body weight that they pull.
Weight pull harness.
All dogs competing in a pull are weighed in by the judge first. The dog’s weight determines the class he competes in. Each pulling organization divides its weight classes differently, and determines the qualification requirements for earning titles. As an example, a dog must pull eight times his body weight to earn a qualifying leg on a wheeled cart in UKC.
There are three types of weighted vehicles used in weight pull: a wheeled cart, a cart on a rail system, and a sled on runners. Wheel and rail pulls may be done on natural surfaces, such as grass or dirt, but are more commonly done on carpet. Sleds are always pulled on snow.
Any breed or size of dog may compete in weight pull. Staffordshire bull terriers, American bulldogs, and American pit bull terriers are among the most popular breeds, but there have been successful representatives of many breeds in this sport.
At a weight-pull competition, pulls are completed in rounds. A pre-determined weight is added to the cart prior to the start of each round. Handlers choose the weight at which to start their dogs—an inexperienced dog might come into the competition on an empty cart (anywhere from seventy to two-hundred pounds), whereas an experienced large dog might come in at over a thousand pounds!
Any breed or size of dog may compete in weight pull.Weight pull is a very enjoyable sport to watch. While it is not as fast-paced as agility or as precise as obedience, it has its own unique skill requirements just like any other dog activity. The myriad of breeds that compete and the ever-increasing weight on the cart add to the excitement. Weight-pull competitions can be found across the country year-round.
Get started with the proper harness—and a clicker
Although the premise of weight pull is simple, it is a little more complex to train. Even in the early stages of training, dogs must wear well-fitting harnesses made specifically for weight pull. Harnesses used for leash walking or sledding are not appropriate for this sport. There are several online retailers that supply custom weight-pull harnesses based on a dog’s measurements. Most dogs do not mind wearing their harnesses, but some dogs require some classical conditioning to get used to it. If your dog is uncomfortable wearing his harness, put it on him prior to feeding him meals or playing with his favorite toy so he expects wonderful rewards from his new apparatus.
Once the dog is comfortable in his harness, the training process begins. Proper pulling form is multi-faceted with several criteria on which to focus. The goal of the trainer is to teach the dog the best possible physical posture. A dog with ideal pulling form walks forward in a straight line toward his handler, pulling the cart as he goes. His head should be very low, with his nose almost touching the ground. As the weight increases, he should dig his nails into the substrate for traction. (Owners often do not trim their dog’s nails for a few weeks leading up to a weight pull so that the nails can act as cleats, digging into the ground.)
Traditionally, dogs have been taught to pull by putting them on leash and guiding them through the act. Unfortunately, problems abound at a competition where a dog must complete his pulls off-lead. Fortunately, clicker training lends itself well to teaching the dog without guides or props! The clicker can be used to mark the specific behaviors we want to encourage, such as a low head or digging into the substrate. Behaviors that we don’t want to see in the chute, such as barking, spinning, and jumping, are ignored. Much of the initial clicker training for weight pull can be done in the backyard, or even indoors on carpet.
Follow my plan
Since clicker training is new to many weight-pull competitors, and classes on the topic are few and far between, I have devised a training plan from scratch. This training requires two people, a trainer and a helper, along with a dog that is comfortable in his weight-pull harness. Here are the training steps I follow:
Click for tension in the harness.
Step 1: Click for a pull
The goal for this first step is for your dog to put tension into the harness, and to drive toward you regardless of the resistance.
Begin by having a human helper sit on the floor and hold the cross-bar on the back of the dog’s harness. Stand about two feet away from the dog and encourage him to come to you, clicking and treating any attempt to pull the helper your way. At first, click even the smallest attempts and the slightest bit of tension in the harness and then gradually shape a longer pulling duration, until you have built up to approximately three seconds of pulling.
This first step is the hardest to teach. I quickly discovered that if I asked for too much too soon, my dogs would exhibit stress behaviors. My first weight-pull dog, Tessie, would spin in circles when the rate of reinforcement dropped too low. My second weight-pull dog, Strata, would offer a slew of behaviors including barking, whining, sniffing, and leaping into the air!
If your dog starts to offer unwanted behaviors, ignore the behaviors. Attempting to “correct” the behavior only gives your dog the reinforcing attention he was seeking. Occasionally, when Strata got too persistent with vocalizing, I would turn my back on him for a few seconds until he quieted down. Only then would I resume training.
Step 2: Add a cart
Next, introduce an object to follow the dog as he pulls. The cart needs to be something you can add weight to during the next step. Consider a garden cart or even a sturdy plastic sled. You’ll also need a carabiner to connect the cart to the back of your dog’s harness, and a second handle of some sort for your helper to use as a brake.
Have your helper man the brakes, prepared to prevent your makeshift cart from bumping into your dog’s hind end when he stops pulling. Connect the dog’s harness to the cart and repeat Step 1, clicking and treating your dog for any attempt to pull the cart your way.
The goal of this step is for your dog to pull the empty cart toward you without offering any stress behaviors. If at any point your dog starts trotting or running, move on to Step 3 immediately. Too much speed discourages proper pulling form and could result in injury if your helper can’t stop the cart in time.
Step 3: Add weight
Once your dog is pulling the cart consistently, it’s time to start adding weight. Cinderblocks are a good choice for most dogs, but smaller dogs could be overwhelmed by that increase in weight. Consider using 12-packs of soda instead, or even a small bag of dog food. Follow the same training pattern as in the steps above, clicking and treating your dog for any attempt to pull the weighted cart your way. At this stage, decrease your training sessions to just two or three times per week, as now it is more about the physical conditioning than about teaching behaviors.
The training process went very quickly for my dogs, and I introduced more weight to the cart steadily to prepare them for the rigors of competition. Canine weight pull is like human weightlifting, in that the athlete must gradually increase the amount of weight in order to build muscle and prevent injury. It took approximately a month of regular training before either of my dogs was ready to compete at their first weight-pull competition.
Weight pull is an excellent low-impact activity that any breed or size dog can enjoy.You’re invited
If you haven’t watched a weight pull before, consider this your invitation. It’s a fast-growing and fun sport with many fantastic participants, both human and canine. Weight pull is an excellent low-impact activity that any breed or size dog can enjoy. It’s a wonderful cold-weather activity, too, so now’s the time to give it a try!
About the authorKatherine Ostiguy, KPA-CTP, is the head trainer for her business, Spring Forth Dog Services, located in eastern Massachusetts. She enjoys competing in a variety of canine sports, including agility, obedience, rally, and weight pull. When not trialing with her own dogs, Katherine inspires the next generation of dog trainers by helping out at regional 4-H clubs.
By Katherine Ostiguy on 01/01/2011
Weight pull is year-round fun!
Are you and your dog looking for something new and different? Have you been wishing for a fresh activity to learn with your dog, something that can be started even in the cold winter months? Canine weight pull is a competitive sport offered by three organizations in the United States: the United Kennel Club (UKC), International Weight Pull Association (IWPA), and American Pulling Alliance (APA). Although the rules differ from group to group, the general idea is the same in each venue. A dog, wearing a specially-designed harness, pulls a weighted vehicle a distance of sixteen feet in sixty seconds or less. Dogs earn qualifying scores, championship points, and other awards based on the percentage of their body weight that they pull.
Weight pull harness.
All dogs competing in a pull are weighed in by the judge first. The dog’s weight determines the class he competes in. Each pulling organization divides its weight classes differently, and determines the qualification requirements for earning titles. As an example, a dog must pull eight times his body weight to earn a qualifying leg on a wheeled cart in UKC.
There are three types of weighted vehicles used in weight pull: a wheeled cart, a cart on a rail system, and a sled on runners. Wheel and rail pulls may be done on natural surfaces, such as grass or dirt, but are more commonly done on carpet. Sleds are always pulled on snow.
Any breed or size of dog may compete in weight pull. Staffordshire bull terriers, American bulldogs, and American pit bull terriers are among the most popular breeds, but there have been successful representatives of many breeds in this sport.
At a weight-pull competition, pulls are completed in rounds. A pre-determined weight is added to the cart prior to the start of each round. Handlers choose the weight at which to start their dogs—an inexperienced dog might come into the competition on an empty cart (anywhere from seventy to two-hundred pounds), whereas an experienced large dog might come in at over a thousand pounds!
Any breed or size of dog may compete in weight pull.Weight pull is a very enjoyable sport to watch. While it is not as fast-paced as agility or as precise as obedience, it has its own unique skill requirements just like any other dog activity. The myriad of breeds that compete and the ever-increasing weight on the cart add to the excitement. Weight-pull competitions can be found across the country year-round.
Get started with the proper harness—and a clicker
Although the premise of weight pull is simple, it is a little more complex to train. Even in the early stages of training, dogs must wear well-fitting harnesses made specifically for weight pull. Harnesses used for leash walking or sledding are not appropriate for this sport. There are several online retailers that supply custom weight-pull harnesses based on a dog’s measurements. Most dogs do not mind wearing their harnesses, but some dogs require some classical conditioning to get used to it. If your dog is uncomfortable wearing his harness, put it on him prior to feeding him meals or playing with his favorite toy so he expects wonderful rewards from his new apparatus.
Once the dog is comfortable in his harness, the training process begins. Proper pulling form is multi-faceted with several criteria on which to focus. The goal of the trainer is to teach the dog the best possible physical posture. A dog with ideal pulling form walks forward in a straight line toward his handler, pulling the cart as he goes. His head should be very low, with his nose almost touching the ground. As the weight increases, he should dig his nails into the substrate for traction. (Owners often do not trim their dog’s nails for a few weeks leading up to a weight pull so that the nails can act as cleats, digging into the ground.)
Traditionally, dogs have been taught to pull by putting them on leash and guiding them through the act. Unfortunately, problems abound at a competition where a dog must complete his pulls off-lead. Fortunately, clicker training lends itself well to teaching the dog without guides or props! The clicker can be used to mark the specific behaviors we want to encourage, such as a low head or digging into the substrate. Behaviors that we don’t want to see in the chute, such as barking, spinning, and jumping, are ignored. Much of the initial clicker training for weight pull can be done in the backyard, or even indoors on carpet.
Follow my plan
Since clicker training is new to many weight-pull competitors, and classes on the topic are few and far between, I have devised a training plan from scratch. This training requires two people, a trainer and a helper, along with a dog that is comfortable in his weight-pull harness. Here are the training steps I follow:
Click for tension in the harness.
Step 1: Click for a pull
The goal for this first step is for your dog to put tension into the harness, and to drive toward you regardless of the resistance.
Begin by having a human helper sit on the floor and hold the cross-bar on the back of the dog’s harness. Stand about two feet away from the dog and encourage him to come to you, clicking and treating any attempt to pull the helper your way. At first, click even the smallest attempts and the slightest bit of tension in the harness and then gradually shape a longer pulling duration, until you have built up to approximately three seconds of pulling.
This first step is the hardest to teach. I quickly discovered that if I asked for too much too soon, my dogs would exhibit stress behaviors. My first weight-pull dog, Tessie, would spin in circles when the rate of reinforcement dropped too low. My second weight-pull dog, Strata, would offer a slew of behaviors including barking, whining, sniffing, and leaping into the air!
If your dog starts to offer unwanted behaviors, ignore the behaviors. Attempting to “correct” the behavior only gives your dog the reinforcing attention he was seeking. Occasionally, when Strata got too persistent with vocalizing, I would turn my back on him for a few seconds until he quieted down. Only then would I resume training.
Step 2: Add a cart
Next, introduce an object to follow the dog as he pulls. The cart needs to be something you can add weight to during the next step. Consider a garden cart or even a sturdy plastic sled. You’ll also need a carabiner to connect the cart to the back of your dog’s harness, and a second handle of some sort for your helper to use as a brake.
Have your helper man the brakes, prepared to prevent your makeshift cart from bumping into your dog’s hind end when he stops pulling. Connect the dog’s harness to the cart and repeat Step 1, clicking and treating your dog for any attempt to pull the cart your way.
The goal of this step is for your dog to pull the empty cart toward you without offering any stress behaviors. If at any point your dog starts trotting or running, move on to Step 3 immediately. Too much speed discourages proper pulling form and could result in injury if your helper can’t stop the cart in time.
Step 3: Add weight
Once your dog is pulling the cart consistently, it’s time to start adding weight. Cinderblocks are a good choice for most dogs, but smaller dogs could be overwhelmed by that increase in weight. Consider using 12-packs of soda instead, or even a small bag of dog food. Follow the same training pattern as in the steps above, clicking and treating your dog for any attempt to pull the weighted cart your way. At this stage, decrease your training sessions to just two or three times per week, as now it is more about the physical conditioning than about teaching behaviors.
The training process went very quickly for my dogs, and I introduced more weight to the cart steadily to prepare them for the rigors of competition. Canine weight pull is like human weightlifting, in that the athlete must gradually increase the amount of weight in order to build muscle and prevent injury. It took approximately a month of regular training before either of my dogs was ready to compete at their first weight-pull competition.
Weight pull is an excellent low-impact activity that any breed or size dog can enjoy.You’re invited
If you haven’t watched a weight pull before, consider this your invitation. It’s a fast-growing and fun sport with many fantastic participants, both human and canine. Weight pull is an excellent low-impact activity that any breed or size dog can enjoy. It’s a wonderful cold-weather activity, too, so now’s the time to give it a try!
About the authorKatherine Ostiguy, KPA-CTP, is the head trainer for her business, Spring Forth Dog Services, located in eastern Massachusetts. She enjoys competing in a variety of canine sports, including agility, obedience, rally, and weight pull. When not trialing with her own dogs, Katherine inspires the next generation of dog trainers by helping out at regional 4-H clubs.
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