I have published this super article before. But feel that it is something we often forget. It is probably one of the best, easy to understand articles on some of the basic social skills many of us forget to teach our dogs and pups. Our expectations of our dogs and pups are often totally unrealistic, and more often than not - unfair to the dogs! All dog owners need to be PRO ACTIVE in all aspects of their dogs behaviour - not just aggression.
Enjoy the article!
Louise
HE JUST WANTS TO SAY "HI!"
By Suzanne Clothier
Sitting quietly on the mall bench beside my husband, I was minding my own business when the man approached. I glanced up as the man sat next to me. He was a bit close for my comfort, so I edged a little closer to my husband who, busy reading a book, ignored me. Still feeling a bit uncomfortable with the strange man so close, I then turned my head slightly away from him, politely indicating I was not interested in any interaction.
To my horror, the man leaned over me and began licking my neck while rudely groping me. When I screamed and pushed him away, my trouble really began. My husband angrily threw me to the ground, yelling at me "Why did you do that? He was only trying to be friendly and say hi! What a touchy bitch you are! You're going to have to learn to behave better in public."
People all around us stared and shook their heads sadly. I heard a few murmuring that they thought my husband should do something about my behaviour; some even mentioned that he shouldn't have such a violent woman out in public until I'd been trained better.
As my husband dragged me to the car, I noticed that the man who had groped me had gone a bit further down the mall and was doing the same thing to other women.
This is a silly scenario, isn't it? First, anyone who knows me knows that I would never be in a mall except under considerable duress. More seriously, no rational human being would consider my response to the man's rudeness as inappropriate or vicious.
By invading my personal space, the man crossed the lines of decent, civilized behaviour; my response would be considered quite justified.
That my husband might punish me for responding to such rudeness by screaming and pushing the offender away is perhaps the most ridiculous aspect of this scenario. If he were to act in this way, there would be no doubt in the minds of even the most casual observers that his ego was of far greater importance than my safety or comfort, and that he was sorely lacking even rudimentary empathy for how I might be feeling in this situation.
Fortunately for me, this scenario is completely imaginary.
Unfortunately, for many dogs, it is a very real scenario that is repeated
far too often!
Inevitably, as the owners who have allowed their dogs to act rudely retreat from the situation, there are comments made about "that aggressive dog" (meaning the dog whose space had been invaded) and the classic comment, usually said in hurt tones, "He only wanted to say hi!"
While there are many frustrating aspects of being a dog trainer, one of the most disturbing scenarios is the situation where a dog is acting appropriately but nonetheless is punished (in the name of "training") by humans who do not understand what constitutes normal canine behaviour and responses.
Sadly, normal behaviour is quickly labelled "problem" behaviour, and the dog is now a "problem dog."
Depending on the skill and awareness of the trainer or instructor, the dog may be merely puzzled or irritated by well meaning attempts to desensitize or re-condition the behaviour or actually punished quite severely using any number of horrific and senseless techniques.
During an off-lead play session at our camp, two adolescent dogs began to roughhouse at top speed, resulting in one of them crashing hard into an older dog who'd been minding his own business. With a loud roar, he chased the offender for a few steps to make his point: "Watch where the heck you're going!"
A few minutes later, with the game still going strong, we watched as that same youngster found himself headed once again on a collision course with the older dog. It seemed another crash and altercation were inevitable. To the surprise of many who were watching, the youngster used all of his skills to avoid the crash, neatly swerving past the older dog who made no comment.
The puppy had learned that no matter how excited he might be by the game, he still had an obligation to be polite. We would look with a raised eyebrow at a mother who allowed a child to simply carom around a room bouncing off people and did nothing to calm the child, and who told those her child had shoved and pushed that, "He's just over excited."
Just as parents bear some responsibility for their children's actions, dog owners have a responsibility to help their puppies act in an appropriate way - not to excuse rudeness.
Sometimes, this requires that we not allow a young dog (or a dog of any age) to escalate to such a high level of excitement and arousal. As a rule of thumb, the more excited and emotional a dog becomes, the less capable they are of thinking clearly and acting appropriately. (This is also true of all other animals, including people.)
Wise handlers know that when emotions are running high, a cool down period is a good choice to avoid problems. Sometimes, helping a young dog learn what is appropriate requires the assistance of a normal, well socialized dog who can make his or her point without leaving anything but a clear message imprinted upon the puppy.
Normal dogs, like normal people, are often incredibly tolerant of the antics of youngsters. The tolerance level is highly individual and dependent upon the dog's experience with puppies. Dogs without much experience with puppies may not be nearly as tolerant as dogs who have seen a lot of puppies come and go.
Tolerance levels are also highly dependent upon the youngster's age; there are different expectations for what constitutes appropriate behaviour at any given age. What we might find acceptable behaviour in a 3 year old child would be frowned upon in an 8 year old. Dogs also have a timetable in their heads - puppies under 16 weeks of age can usually take appalling liberties with an adult dog.
As Dunbar notes, there appears to be a "puppy license" of sorts, possession of which entitles you to be an utter pest without much repercussion. Past the age of 4 ½ months, the "puppy license" expires as hormone levels shift and psychological changes occur. At this point, adult dogs begin to gradually insist on more controlled, respectful interactions from youngsters.
No matter what the breed, no matter how much genetic manipulation may have muted or inhibited certain behaviours, a dog is a dog is a dog. And the basics of dog-to-dog communications remain the same: a growl means back off in any breed's language, a tail held high and stiffly is a warning, rolling over on your back is an apology, etc.
My experience has been that it is owners of breeds considered non-aggressive that cause the most problems in dog-to-dog interactions simply by being unaware that their dog is rude.
To the owners of non-aggressive breeds, there doesn't appear to be any thought that rudeness can take many forms. Anyone can recognize that a dog lunging and snarling is being rude. Far too few folks recognize that simply getting into another's dog space - however sweetly and quietly - is just as rude in the world of dogs.
Owners of rude dogs do not perceive their dogs' actions as rude; they see only "friendliness," as if the behaviour for greeting people is the same as greeting another dog - it's not! Thus the classic line, "He's only trying to say ‘hi!'" Like people, dogs have varying thresholds for what I call the "fool factor."
Consider yourself in this situation: you are walking down the street and a group of noisy teenagers - busy in their own world - bumps into you and knocks you down. Do you smile at them? Do you mutter, "Watch where you're going!" as you brush yourself off? Are you vocal in expressing your displeasure?
All depends on your tolerance threshold. It also depends on your mood, your health, the various stresses at work in your life, etc. Imagine that you had just won the lottery moments before they bumped into you. Chances are pretty good you'd be far more tolerant than if you'd just come from a meeting with the IRS. What if you'd been mugged a year earlier by a similar group of young hooligans? Chances are good that you might view this group as potentially dangerous, again altering your possible response to their rudeness. Our dogs are no different.
Each dog - no matter what the breed - has his own tolerance threshold, and that threshold is variable as a result of many factors, including basic breed characteristics. Some breeds have been selectively bred to have a very high tolerance threshold because they are asked to work in large groups. Fox hounds come to mind as a breed specifically selected for tolerance of other dogs.
Generally speaking, the guardian breeds by their very nature and job descriptions are not meant to work in groups and have a stronger sense of personal space, thus are usually much less tolerant of rudeness.
Bad experiences can make a dog quite sensitive to rude behaviour by other dogs. From the dog's point of view, there is the very real possibility that such rudeness could become an actual attack - it has in the past.
Health problems can also affect a dog's tolerance level. A dog who is in pain (whether just muscle sore from hard work or play, or from a disease such as hip dysphasia or the creeping onset of arthritis) will have far less tolerance than he might when he's feeling fine.
We cannot expect our dogs to be saints - at least not until we can rise to that level of tolerance ourselves. And that's unlikely to happen any time soon.
We can expect our dogs to be tolerant to the degree that we educate them, socialize them and protect them - with respect to their individual needs and boundaries.
To my way of thinking, a critical part of the relationships I have with my animals is this promise: "I will protect you." And to the best of my abilities, I do not violate this promise in any way.
A few years ago, I was invited to be part of a fund-raising dog walk. One of my duties was to lead the entire group on the first lap of the walk. I had chosen my oldest bitch, Vali, to accompany me. As we waited, hundreds of dogs and handlers assembled in the park.
Many of the dogs were quite excited. Some dogs were only under borderline control. Vali laid quietly at my side, watching it all with great tolerance.
One particular dog caught my eye - a huge yellow Labrador who was dragging a small child behind him as he ploughed through the crowd. I watched as this dog marked not only every tree or bush he passed, but also several pants legs of unsuspecting people. More aware handlers quietly gathered up their dogs and moved out of Mr. Rude's path, thus avoiding potential altercations.
As he moved closer to us, I saw Vali's head turn toward him and become quite still. Her eyes began to harden as she assessed - quite accurately - just how rude a dog this was. I could see her contemplating possible responses should the Lab be so rude as to invade her space (which in such public settings is perhaps 2-3 feet from her body).
The only intervention necessary was to gently touch her on the head and say, "Yes. I see him. And you're right - he is rude. I'll handle it." Then I stepped slightly in front of her so that if he approached, he would have to first come through me. Immediately, Vali relaxed and went back to watching the crowd in general though she did keep an eye on Mr. Rude.
Fortunately for us, Mr. Rude veered off to hassle another dog and themoment passed. There were other ways I could have responded. I could have seen Vali's very appropriate response as potential aggression, and told her harshly, "Leave it!" To my way of thinking, that does not acknowledge or respect her feelings; it merely demonstrates my own fears about losing control of my dog's behaviour. I could have ignored the subtle signs that she had some concerns about Mr. Rude, and waited until he invaded her space then punished her for defending herself against rudeness.
To my way of thinking, that would violate my promise to protect those I love, and then add insult to injury by punishing her for protecting herself. Keeping that promise to my dogs means that I am obligated to watch for any sign that they are beginning to feel concerned about a situation, and to act quickly to eliminate or minimize their concerns.
Unfortunately for many dogs labelled "dog aggressive," a weird loop begins to form between dog and handler in the struggle to deal with this behaviour. Understandably shocked when their dog exhibits any kind of aggressive behaviour, the handler begins to scan the world at large for anything that might trigger that behaviour again.
They become hyper-alert to any potential situation, and upon sighting a potential problem, grab the lead with a death grip in order to control their "aggressive dog." Their own concern coupled with the death grip escalates the dog's anxiety and aggression, usually resulting in precisely the behaviour they sought to avoid in the first place.
Far more insidious, however, is the message sent to the dog whose handler pays intense attention to the world at large but none to the dog himself! In one of my seminars, a woman presented her terrier Brisky with the complaint that he was "dog aggressive."
In reality, Brisky had very little off-lead socialization, was quite fearful of other dogs, and all his "aggression" was nothing more than defensive offence. If given a choice, Brisky would have happily left the room and driven himself home.
The woman looked like a Secret Service agent on presidential detail - she never stopped scanning the room for any potential problem. Was that person going to get up and walk their dog past Brisky? Was that dog going to turn around and lie down facing Brisky? She saw potential disaster in every slight adjustment or movement of another dog.
What she never looked at was Brisky himself. Consequently, his "sudden" explosions always came as a shock to her. I felt very sorry for Brisky. He sent many signals to his owner that he was worried and afraid. But all his communications were all ignored until he felt so pressured that he had to protect himself in the only way he knew how.
It is very hard to feel safe and protected if the person you are with pays no attention to you. When working with people like Brisky's owners, my goal is to get them to watch the dog, not the world at large. If their attention is outward, instead of on the dog, they will miss the early signs that their dog is feeling uncomfortable and needs some help.
The earlier the dog receives acknowledgment for what he's feeling, is helped to cope with the situation, and given evidence that you understand his concern and will deal with it on his behalf, the less likely his behaviour is to escalate into dramatic displays.
This is true whether it's a dog like Vali who believes that a rude dog should be taken down a peg or a dog like Brisky who is afraid.
I encourage handlers to be quite active in protecting their dog - whether that means quietly walking away to a safer area, or, when that's not possible, literally stepping in physically to present the first line of defence.
Stepping in between two dogs is a classic act of leadership. Dogs do it with other dogs all the time, so this same gesture coming from a human leader is understood and appreciated. Brisky visibly relaxed when his owner began watching him, not the world; by the end of the day, he was far more tolerant of situations that had previously triggered his explosions. No doubt he felt safer - someone was finally listening to what he had to say, and offering him help (such as changing his body posture and thus his emotional state) when he needed it.
The owner reported that she felt calmer knowing that Brisky would let her know how he was feeling, and that she could help him before he felt the need to protect himself. Instead of having to scan the world at large constantly, she could relax and focus only on what Brisky told her about the world as he saw it.
In my opinion, an instructor's responsibility is not only to educate dogs and owners, but also to act to protect each dog from the other members of the class. This requires an ever-deepening understanding of canine behavior, and an attendance to subtleties of behaviour that foretell problems brewing.
Certainly, no matter how aware or dedicated a handler, it is not possible to stop other dogs from being rude - or, more to the point, it is not possible to educate all other handlers so that they won't allow their dogs to be rude.
I believe fools and rudeness are widespread, and to the best of my knowledge, there's no concerted government program to eradicate either rudeness or foolishness. (If there were, Capitol Hill would soon be a ghost town. . .)
Here's my advice for dealing with the "fool factor."
1. Socialize your dog thoroughly with other dogs; for puppies, choose playmates of a similar age and adults who have been well socialized themselves. This means off-lead socialization, not sniffing noses at the end of the lead. The more experience a dog has with other dogs, the more refined his judgment will become about what constitutes rude or foolish behaviour and how best to deal with it. He'll also learn how to be a polite dog himself. If a dog has not or cannot be well socialized, be realistic about what you can expect from him in his dealings with other dogs. This may mean altering your training or competition goals to be fair to a dog who may not be able to cope with the stresses of these situations.
2. When socializing your dog under someone else's instruction or guidance, be careful. Some instructors and trainers are appalling ignorant about basic behaviour, and unable to set up a positive socialization situation. If you feel uncomfortable with a situation, remove your dog. It only takes a few seconds for a bad experience to leave a lasting impression, particularly on a young dog. Just turning dogs loose together to play is not socialization. There has to be supervision, and intervention when the potential for a problem appears. The instructor must pay attention to each individual dog as well as the pairings or subsets within the whole play group. If one dog is getting overly excited, it's time to gently capture him, take him out of the play group and calm him down before letting him play again. If a fearful dog has reached his limit, it's time to remove him from the group and give him time to relax and build his courage before putting him back in. If a particular dog or dogs begins to gang up on another dog, time to break up the brat pack.
3. Watch your dog. Your dog will tell you all you need to know about his perception of the world. When you're with him, really be with him. Pay attention to his behaviour. Position yourself and/or the dog so that the dog is always in your peripheral vision. Practice checking on your dog often. If he appears to be concerned, find out why. And then help him. Protect him. Teach yourself to recognize the small, subtle signs that he's shifted out of a perfectly relaxed state of mind. These may be as simple as the tilt of an ear, a raised eyebrow, a slight holding of the breath or tensing of the muscles. Each dog is different - learn to read your own dog. If you can't watch your dog in a situation where there are potential problems, put him somewhere safe.
I've seen far too many incidents occur unnecessarily because a handler was engrossed in a conversation or fascinated by what was happening in the ring and ignoring the dog at their side. When a handler's attention is elsewhere, I call this handling by Braille - meaning, knowing nothing more than that there was still pressure on the lead and thus the dog was still present. Unbeknownst to you, the dog could be acting rudely himself or trying to avoid a rude dog. Handle your dog with awareness, not by the length of your lead.
4. Be pro-active in protecting your dog. If you see a fool and his rude dog headed your way, do your best to protect your dog. If possible, walk away, lightly and quietly asking your dog to come with you. Be sure you are breathing and relaxed - don't let your apprehension about a possible altercation impact negatively on your dog. If you can't walk away, try to get the fool to stop. Position yourself between the fool and your dog. If necessary, loudly & firmly tell the approaching person that your dog is not good with other dogs. In close quarters where there really aren't any options for moving away, shield your dog with your own body. (Remember, stepping between dogs is an act of protective leadership.) If you need to, sharply tell the fool to "please control your rude dog." You'll probably get a dirty look (fools rarely believe they or their dogs are rude and are shocked when spoken to sharply) but chances are good they'll at least make a show at controlling their dog or move huffily away from you.
DOs & DON'Ts
DON'T bring an intolerant or under-socialized dog to a puppy kindergarten or other concentrations of rudeness & stupidity when you know he can't handle puppies, stupidity, or rudeness!
DON'T put your dog in a situation you or he are not prepared to handle.
DON'T turn a rude puppy or dog loose with an intolerant adult.
DON'T expect your dog to like every dog he meets (at least until you like every person you meet.)
DON'T allow your dog to become overexcited or rude - help him find a more appropriate behaviour or remove him briefly from the triggering situation
DON'T allow other people to allow their dogs to be rude to your dog.
DON'T ignore your dog or what your dog tells you about his feelings.
DON'T punish a dog for telling another dog to get the hell out of his face.
DON'T punish an adult for reminding a puppy to mind his manners.
DON'T let your training or competition goals overwhelm your good sense - always be fair to your dog.
DO respect the fact that your dog has a need for & a right to his personal space.
DO socialize your dog so that he's wise in the ways of other dogs.
DO accept the inexplicable disliking that your dog may have for another dog.
DO build your dog's tolerance levels through repeated, positive experiences.
DO continually educate yourself regarding normal and appropriate canine behaviour in any given situation.
DO plan ahead to how you will handle difficult situations, people or dogs.
DO earn your dog's trust by keeping your promise to protect him.
DO pay attention to your dog when you are with him.
DO insist that your dog behave politely.
DO respect that your dog's individual needs may or may not be in line with your training or competition goals.
DO put your dog first - all your hopes, dreams, titles & goals all mean nothing if you ignore the needs, fears and realities of who your dog is.
DO honour & respect your dog's concerns, whether or not you share them. (Remember how your mom left the light in the hall on at night when you were a kid? It probably wasn't because she was afraid of the dark.)
Friday, July 31, 2009
Thursday, July 30, 2009
NEW SERVICE - DOGGY DAY CARE
NOW AVAILABLE AT PAWS ABILITIES
DOGGIE DAY CARE
- Does your doggie have too much time on his paws?
- Are you arriving home after a long day at work to destruction of property, garden and worse?
- Are you getting complaints from your neighbours, due to your dog's excessive barking and/or howling whilst he is left home alone?
- Does your lifestyle and time constraints, prevent you from having more than one dog - leaving your existing pet is lonely, bored and frustrated?
- Do you live on a small property and your doggie doesnt get enough exercise?
Paws Abilities Doggie Day Care is the answer!
We have put together a structered day for the doggies which includes:-
- Play time
- Socialisation skills
- Educational games
- Basic life skills learning
- Confidence building
- Exposure to other species
- Walkies
- Free run exercise
- Basic good manners such as food manners, loose leash walking and much more
The only requirement is proof of innoculation & deworming, and a dog/pup who is resonably socialised and/or not aggressive.
- Constant supervision - dogs are never left alone!
- The day care group is run under the supervision on an accredited animal behaviourist
- Fully fenced property - boundry wall is 6' precast walling.
- Park-like, wooded, shady area in which to run and play
- Splash ponds for summer fun
- Digging area
- Shelters and various buildings available from the elements
- 6' and 4' runs for quiet time
Full time, part time, flexi time and short term bookings available.
Limited places available:
Reasonable Rates - available on enquiry.
Contact Louise or Emma
082-923-9317
082-890-0905
(011) 969-4467 - Working at the moment - however, the line is not very reliable as the cables regularly are stolen!
Wednesday, July 29, 2009
A RECORD - K9 GOOD CITIZEN
Just a short note to CONGRATULATE all the Paws Abilities students (some 30 odd of you) who entered the K9 Good Citizen Test this Saturday. A record - we had 100% pass rate. Fantastic!!!!!
Well done to you all. Names will appear in next weeks newsletter.
I would just thank to give a huge vote of thanks to Paul Lakin our KUSA judge, and Andrew and Julie Sayers who kindly assisted Paul. Your hard work was truly appreciated and on behalf of the dogs, their handlers and the Paws Abilities instructors - THANK YOU VERY, VERY MUCH!
More tomorrow!
Louise
Well done to you all. Names will appear in next weeks newsletter.
I would just thank to give a huge vote of thanks to Paul Lakin our KUSA judge, and Andrew and Julie Sayers who kindly assisted Paul. Your hard work was truly appreciated and on behalf of the dogs, their handlers and the Paws Abilities instructors - THANK YOU VERY, VERY MUCH!
More tomorrow!
Louise
Thursday, July 23, 2009
K9 Good Citizen Test at Paws Abilities
Bookings for the Kennel Union K9 Good Citizen Test are now closed.
However, spectators are very welcome and we would welcome the support.
Come and watch the fun.
Refreshments will be available.
We will be holding our puppy class as usual however the ring/areana is out of bounds except for competitors who will only be permitted in the ring whilst competing.
The test starts at 12:30 - prizegiving will be held after all students have completed their test.
A reminder to please clean up after your dogs! Pooh packets and bins are available!!!
Hope to see you Saturday.
Regards
Louise
However, spectators are very welcome and we would welcome the support.
Come and watch the fun.
Refreshments will be available.
We will be holding our puppy class as usual however the ring/areana is out of bounds except for competitors who will only be permitted in the ring whilst competing.
The test starts at 12:30 - prizegiving will be held after all students have completed their test.
A reminder to please clean up after your dogs! Pooh packets and bins are available!!!
Hope to see you Saturday.
Regards
Louise
Loose Leash Walking - Great Clicker Tips
Loose Leash Walking: The Total Picture – Clicker tip of the week!
Loose Leash Walking: The Total Picture
Loose leash walking is one of the most challenging behaviours to teach. It's not a particularly "natural" behaviour -- there's nothing equivalent in the dog world -- and walking relative to something else is a non-discrete behaviour, which means there's no obvious "right" or "wrong” -- the trainer decides what's acceptable. Therefore, it's tough on the dog AND tough on the trainer.
That said, it is possible to teach your dog to walk on a loose leash. However, to be completely fair -- and to give yourself (and your dog) the highest probability of success -- you need to look at the whole picture. Very often, the trainer considers only his own agenda -- walk nicely on this leash -- and does not consider the dog's wants and needs in the situation.
Choosing the Right Approach for the Age of Your Dog
How old is the dog you are training? Different age dogs need different approaches because their own needs are different.
Puppies (0-6 months.)
Puppies are brand new to the world. Literally. Everything is new to them. They have little or no history -- good or bad -- related to what you want. They also have a very short attention span. With puppies, I have found the best method is to have a few steps of highly reinforced loose leash and attention followed by a lot of playing/sniffing/exploring. Then a few more exciting, highly reinforced steps followed by more playing/sniffing/exploring.
Think of it as "on" and "off" -- and have cues for each. I use "with me" and "go play." This isn't a gift you're giving your dog. It is necessary. Your dog must learn about the world around him. It's part of his socialisation. If he does not experience lots of things at this critical time, he's likely to be fearful and insecure later.
Adolescence (6 mos. - 3 years)
I'm not exaggerating about that time period. Your dog may look like an adult, and you may feel like he's been around forever and "should act better" but if he's under three, you've still got an adolescent on your hands.
Adolescence is a time of growing. A time of boundless energy. It's the time when your dog grows up mentally -- when he begins testing all of the choices available to him and making decisions about which path he's going to follow. (Remember when you were an adolescent?) This isn't rebellion. It's not stubbornness or defiance or dominance. It's a necessary part of growing up. "Because I said so" doesn't cut it anymore. He has to find out what works and what doesn't.
This is a challenging age. Your dog is bigger and stronger, and he's full of energy. Now, more than any other age, you need consistency. Remember, every time you give in and let him pull, you're not only reinforcing pulling, but you're putting it on a variable schedule of reinforcement and
STRENGTHENING it.
When you don't have time to work on walking on a loose leash, MANAGE the situation. Get a Gentle Leader (head collar) and use it. If he pulls in the head collar, circle him until he's paying attention. When you have time to work on walking on a loose leash, work on it. The "on and off"
game works well for this age too -- especially if they have a place where they can really run and get the ya-yas out. Once all the ya-yas are out of them, they are capable of working for longer, more concerted periods of time. Note: If you have an adolescent dog, you must have a place where they can exercise themselves. A walk at human speed ain't gonna cut, and you're going to fight a losing battle against a pulling dog. Expecting an adolescent dog to pay attention and walk nicely BEFORE he has had a chance to work off some of his energy is setting you both up for failure.
Adult dog (3+ years)
At some point after three years, dogs begin to settle into adulthood. THIS is when you can take long walks and reasonably expect your dog to walk quietly -- this is, IF you have built a reinforcement history. On and off is still a nice concept, and adults still have exercise needs and still need to get the ya-yas out, but overall, this stage is the goal.
Teaching Loose Leash Walking
Step 1: Define It
The first step is to define what you want. Seriously. Maybe you want the dog to walk attentively sometimes and inattentively (sniffing, etc.) at other times. Maybe when the leash is on, you want attention at all times.
What level of tension in the leash is okay? (If you're using a Flexi, you're going to have tension.) Maybe you want the dog to know that when on a Flexi he can walk one way, and when he's on a leather leash, he walks another way. It's up to you. But you can't progress until you define what you want. If you do, you'll be inconsistent, which isn't fair to your dog.
Step 2A: Attention
The second step is to work on attention. If your dog is in front of you, or sniffing, or looking around, you ain't got his attention. Can you get it? Always? If not, you need to work on that. It's the single most crucial behaviour you can possibly train because if you can't get your dog's attention, you aren't going to get *any* other behaviour.
Listen to me.
This is important. If you lose your dog's attention the moment you step out the door, you're not ready to work on loose leash walking. Need to exercise him? Read the section on management above, or find an alternative until you get the basics down.
Attention is like every other behaviour. It has to be taught in increasingly distracting situations. Start in the house. Just click and treat every time the dog looks at you. Don't call the dog's name or pat your leg. Just wait and click the offered behaviour. Do this throughout the day whenever attention is offered. If you don't have food, just reinforce with smiles, pets, and kind words.
Move to different rooms. Gradually increase your criteria -- start with a glance and work up to a second or two at least. Then go outside. Just stand there and wait. You may have to wait a while, but eventually he will get it. Keep taking him to different locations - starting in boring locations, of course. Don't try to walk him or work with him. Just get out of the car and stand there until he looks at you. End the session when he's totally, completely focused on you. As an example, I did this with my Newf. We went to the far end of the Supermarket parking lot. The first evening it took 20 minutes to get him completely focused on me. The second night, 10 minutes. The third night, five. Then we ere able to start moving incrementally closer to the door.
Step 2B: Practice Off-leash
What practice loose leash walking without the leash? The leash is a tether for safety in case of emergency. It's not a guide to hold the dog in position. The goal is to teach the dog is to walk in the proper place, so what difference does it make if you're using a leash? The reason I named this step "2B" is because it can be taught while you're working on attention even before you take your dog on the leash outside. Practicing off-leash walking is easy: just click and treat every time the dog shows up in heel position. Again, don't pat your leg or call him. Just wander around and click when he happens to be in the right place. Make being at your left side the most reinforcing place in the world.
Practice in the house. Practice in a fenced yard. Practice in a fenced tennis court. Practice anywhere it's both safe to let your dog off leash AND quiet and small enough that he's not going to forget about you completely. (Remember, you're supposed to be practicing attention too.
Perhaps get him focused on you and THEN practice off-leash walking….)
Step Three: Walking in the Correct Position
Next, teach the dog that walking in the correct position -- and you defined that in the first step -- is reinforcing. Don't skimp on this step. Shovel treats when they're doing it right. Make it the best place to be. How long do you have to do this? Until it's a habit. If the dog is wandering off, tripping you, jumping around, etc., it isn't a habit. Deliver your dog's dinner, piece by piece, morsel by morsel, on walkies until the habit is ingrained.
Step Four: Be A Tree
Fourth, teach your dog that it's not worth the trouble to go to the end of the leash. This is the "Be a Tree" method we talk about. Use the "Be a Tree" method when the dog is pulling out of natural exuberance, NOT when he's trying to pull toward something specific. The basic idea is simple:
Never, ever take another step if the dog is in front of you. Stop moving. Freeze.
The first step is to click when the leash becomes slack again. Clicking when the leash goes slack is only the first criteria, however. When are you ready to progress to the next criteria? It depends on the dog, he environment, how well you've done on your attention training, and whether you've given the dog the (needed) opportunity to both explore and get the ya-ya's out. The rule of thumb I use is to progress when the dog is ACTIVELY offering the behaviour I want within a reasonable amount of time. Standing at the end of the leash or five seconds and then turning ISN'T good enough to progress.
When the dog is ready to progress, the criteria I use are:
Click when the leash becomes slack OR when the dog glances at you.
Click when the dog turns his head toward you.
Click when the dog turns to face you.
Click when the dog takes a step toward you.
Click when the dog returns all the way to you.
Click when the dog returns to heel position.
By the time you get to the last step, the dog has learned that it's not worth the trouble of going to the end of the leash.
The success of "Be a Tree" is dependent upon several factors:
Maintain a high rate of reinforcement when the dog is in correct position. This is one of the biggest mistakes I see. People forget to maintain a high rate of reinforcement in correct position, and the dogs quickly figure out that they can go to the end of the leash and back to get a treat.
Don't increase your criteria until the dog is actively offering the current criteria. If the dog wanders to the end of the leash and spends five or ten seconds staring at something before turning to look at you, you are *not* ready to increase the criteria.
Always, always, always deliver the reinforcement in heel position. Click for whatever criteria and, if necessary, lure the dog back into the correct position before delivering the treat. Teach your dog that treats ONLY come in heel position -- and that they are available freely there.
Step Five: Environmental Rewards
Finally, the fifth step is to teach your dog that you are the giver of all environmental rewards. The dogs are pulling and excited because there's neat stuff out there. That's not a bad thing. Just take the time to teach them that 100% of that stuff comes from you. Use "penalty yards" (TM pending, Lana Horton): Walk nicely to the bush, and you can sniff. Whoops! You lunged, let's walk back to the starting point and try again.
Think of the environmental rewards as just that -- rewards. You say you lose your dog's attention even when working with the very best treats?
Then use what he *does* want -- a chance to sniff and mark and play. "On and Off" can easily be used as a reinforcement system --pay attention and walk nicely for a few steps and you can go do what you want for a few seconds. To be honest, I find environmental rewards much more helpful than Be a Tree.
Conclusion
Remember, the dogs are learning every step they take. If you aren't reinforcing them for walking in the correct position, they're getting their reinforcement elsewhere -- and I guarantee it's working against you. Be proactive.
Yep, it's a *lot* of work, but once you've built a habit, it gets easier.
Melissa Alexander
Loose Leash Walking: The Total Picture
Loose leash walking is one of the most challenging behaviours to teach. It's not a particularly "natural" behaviour -- there's nothing equivalent in the dog world -- and walking relative to something else is a non-discrete behaviour, which means there's no obvious "right" or "wrong” -- the trainer decides what's acceptable. Therefore, it's tough on the dog AND tough on the trainer.
That said, it is possible to teach your dog to walk on a loose leash. However, to be completely fair -- and to give yourself (and your dog) the highest probability of success -- you need to look at the whole picture. Very often, the trainer considers only his own agenda -- walk nicely on this leash -- and does not consider the dog's wants and needs in the situation.
Choosing the Right Approach for the Age of Your Dog
How old is the dog you are training? Different age dogs need different approaches because their own needs are different.
Puppies (0-6 months.)
Puppies are brand new to the world. Literally. Everything is new to them. They have little or no history -- good or bad -- related to what you want. They also have a very short attention span. With puppies, I have found the best method is to have a few steps of highly reinforced loose leash and attention followed by a lot of playing/sniffing/exploring. Then a few more exciting, highly reinforced steps followed by more playing/sniffing/exploring.
Think of it as "on" and "off" -- and have cues for each. I use "with me" and "go play." This isn't a gift you're giving your dog. It is necessary. Your dog must learn about the world around him. It's part of his socialisation. If he does not experience lots of things at this critical time, he's likely to be fearful and insecure later.
Adolescence (6 mos. - 3 years)
I'm not exaggerating about that time period. Your dog may look like an adult, and you may feel like he's been around forever and "should act better" but if he's under three, you've still got an adolescent on your hands.
Adolescence is a time of growing. A time of boundless energy. It's the time when your dog grows up mentally -- when he begins testing all of the choices available to him and making decisions about which path he's going to follow. (Remember when you were an adolescent?) This isn't rebellion. It's not stubbornness or defiance or dominance. It's a necessary part of growing up. "Because I said so" doesn't cut it anymore. He has to find out what works and what doesn't.
This is a challenging age. Your dog is bigger and stronger, and he's full of energy. Now, more than any other age, you need consistency. Remember, every time you give in and let him pull, you're not only reinforcing pulling, but you're putting it on a variable schedule of reinforcement and
STRENGTHENING it.
When you don't have time to work on walking on a loose leash, MANAGE the situation. Get a Gentle Leader (head collar) and use it. If he pulls in the head collar, circle him until he's paying attention. When you have time to work on walking on a loose leash, work on it. The "on and off"
game works well for this age too -- especially if they have a place where they can really run and get the ya-yas out. Once all the ya-yas are out of them, they are capable of working for longer, more concerted periods of time. Note: If you have an adolescent dog, you must have a place where they can exercise themselves. A walk at human speed ain't gonna cut, and you're going to fight a losing battle against a pulling dog. Expecting an adolescent dog to pay attention and walk nicely BEFORE he has had a chance to work off some of his energy is setting you both up for failure.
Adult dog (3+ years)
At some point after three years, dogs begin to settle into adulthood. THIS is when you can take long walks and reasonably expect your dog to walk quietly -- this is, IF you have built a reinforcement history. On and off is still a nice concept, and adults still have exercise needs and still need to get the ya-yas out, but overall, this stage is the goal.
Teaching Loose Leash Walking
Step 1: Define It
The first step is to define what you want. Seriously. Maybe you want the dog to walk attentively sometimes and inattentively (sniffing, etc.) at other times. Maybe when the leash is on, you want attention at all times.
What level of tension in the leash is okay? (If you're using a Flexi, you're going to have tension.) Maybe you want the dog to know that when on a Flexi he can walk one way, and when he's on a leather leash, he walks another way. It's up to you. But you can't progress until you define what you want. If you do, you'll be inconsistent, which isn't fair to your dog.
Step 2A: Attention
The second step is to work on attention. If your dog is in front of you, or sniffing, or looking around, you ain't got his attention. Can you get it? Always? If not, you need to work on that. It's the single most crucial behaviour you can possibly train because if you can't get your dog's attention, you aren't going to get *any* other behaviour.
Listen to me.
This is important. If you lose your dog's attention the moment you step out the door, you're not ready to work on loose leash walking. Need to exercise him? Read the section on management above, or find an alternative until you get the basics down.
Attention is like every other behaviour. It has to be taught in increasingly distracting situations. Start in the house. Just click and treat every time the dog looks at you. Don't call the dog's name or pat your leg. Just wait and click the offered behaviour. Do this throughout the day whenever attention is offered. If you don't have food, just reinforce with smiles, pets, and kind words.
Move to different rooms. Gradually increase your criteria -- start with a glance and work up to a second or two at least. Then go outside. Just stand there and wait. You may have to wait a while, but eventually he will get it. Keep taking him to different locations - starting in boring locations, of course. Don't try to walk him or work with him. Just get out of the car and stand there until he looks at you. End the session when he's totally, completely focused on you. As an example, I did this with my Newf. We went to the far end of the Supermarket parking lot. The first evening it took 20 minutes to get him completely focused on me. The second night, 10 minutes. The third night, five. Then we ere able to start moving incrementally closer to the door.
Step 2B: Practice Off-leash
What practice loose leash walking without the leash? The leash is a tether for safety in case of emergency. It's not a guide to hold the dog in position. The goal is to teach the dog is to walk in the proper place, so what difference does it make if you're using a leash? The reason I named this step "2B" is because it can be taught while you're working on attention even before you take your dog on the leash outside. Practicing off-leash walking is easy: just click and treat every time the dog shows up in heel position. Again, don't pat your leg or call him. Just wander around and click when he happens to be in the right place. Make being at your left side the most reinforcing place in the world.
Practice in the house. Practice in a fenced yard. Practice in a fenced tennis court. Practice anywhere it's both safe to let your dog off leash AND quiet and small enough that he's not going to forget about you completely. (Remember, you're supposed to be practicing attention too.
Perhaps get him focused on you and THEN practice off-leash walking….)
Step Three: Walking in the Correct Position
Next, teach the dog that walking in the correct position -- and you defined that in the first step -- is reinforcing. Don't skimp on this step. Shovel treats when they're doing it right. Make it the best place to be. How long do you have to do this? Until it's a habit. If the dog is wandering off, tripping you, jumping around, etc., it isn't a habit. Deliver your dog's dinner, piece by piece, morsel by morsel, on walkies until the habit is ingrained.
Step Four: Be A Tree
Fourth, teach your dog that it's not worth the trouble to go to the end of the leash. This is the "Be a Tree" method we talk about. Use the "Be a Tree" method when the dog is pulling out of natural exuberance, NOT when he's trying to pull toward something specific. The basic idea is simple:
Never, ever take another step if the dog is in front of you. Stop moving. Freeze.
The first step is to click when the leash becomes slack again. Clicking when the leash goes slack is only the first criteria, however. When are you ready to progress to the next criteria? It depends on the dog, he environment, how well you've done on your attention training, and whether you've given the dog the (needed) opportunity to both explore and get the ya-ya's out. The rule of thumb I use is to progress when the dog is ACTIVELY offering the behaviour I want within a reasonable amount of time. Standing at the end of the leash or five seconds and then turning ISN'T good enough to progress.
When the dog is ready to progress, the criteria I use are:
Click when the leash becomes slack OR when the dog glances at you.
Click when the dog turns his head toward you.
Click when the dog turns to face you.
Click when the dog takes a step toward you.
Click when the dog returns all the way to you.
Click when the dog returns to heel position.
By the time you get to the last step, the dog has learned that it's not worth the trouble of going to the end of the leash.
The success of "Be a Tree" is dependent upon several factors:
Maintain a high rate of reinforcement when the dog is in correct position. This is one of the biggest mistakes I see. People forget to maintain a high rate of reinforcement in correct position, and the dogs quickly figure out that they can go to the end of the leash and back to get a treat.
Don't increase your criteria until the dog is actively offering the current criteria. If the dog wanders to the end of the leash and spends five or ten seconds staring at something before turning to look at you, you are *not* ready to increase the criteria.
Always, always, always deliver the reinforcement in heel position. Click for whatever criteria and, if necessary, lure the dog back into the correct position before delivering the treat. Teach your dog that treats ONLY come in heel position -- and that they are available freely there.
Step Five: Environmental Rewards
Finally, the fifth step is to teach your dog that you are the giver of all environmental rewards. The dogs are pulling and excited because there's neat stuff out there. That's not a bad thing. Just take the time to teach them that 100% of that stuff comes from you. Use "penalty yards" (TM pending, Lana Horton): Walk nicely to the bush, and you can sniff. Whoops! You lunged, let's walk back to the starting point and try again.
Think of the environmental rewards as just that -- rewards. You say you lose your dog's attention even when working with the very best treats?
Then use what he *does* want -- a chance to sniff and mark and play. "On and Off" can easily be used as a reinforcement system --pay attention and walk nicely for a few steps and you can go do what you want for a few seconds. To be honest, I find environmental rewards much more helpful than Be a Tree.
Conclusion
Remember, the dogs are learning every step they take. If you aren't reinforcing them for walking in the correct position, they're getting their reinforcement elsewhere -- and I guarantee it's working against you. Be proactive.
Yep, it's a *lot* of work, but once you've built a habit, it gets easier.
Melissa Alexander
Wednesday, July 22, 2009
Challenge Feeding an "Only" Dog
CHALLENGE FEEDING YOUR DOG
Ways to prevent boredom in “only” dogs!
Is your dog looking for a new challenge?
Does he have too much time on his paws and energy to spare despite your best efforts to exhaust him with long walks?
Perhaps you need to think again about his meal times.
For many dogs feeding times are the highlight of the day, but 30 seconds later the bowl is empty and he is left with nothing to look forward to. This is obviously a very unnatural situation. Wild dogs and wolves spend a large portion of time and effort acquiring food.
No one is suggesting that you stop feeding your dog and send him out to find his own dinner, but you can make getting food slightly more challenging.
The first step is to do away with the food bowl. Eating a pile of food is never going to be a challenge. Instead, try scattering dry food around the garden. Not only does this encourage your dog to use his nose, which is mentally tiring, but you will be amazed at how much energy he will expend criss-crossing the garden to ensure that he has found every
last crumb.
Try filling a plastic container with snacks and dry food. Then, as your dog nudges it around he will be rewarded with food falling out. Alternatively, suspending a similar container just above nose height will encourage aerial nudging! There are also commercial product such as the Buster® Cube which work the same way. If you really want to up the ante, stuff food into sterilised bones, or specially made toys such as a Kong®. These have an advantage as canned food can be put in as well. Once your dog gets adept at emptying his Kong®, try freezing it - that will slow him down a bit. Obviously supervise your dog when ever he is chewing toys to make sure he only eats the food and not the toy!
So why bother? Apart from prolonging your dog's mealtimes and consequently his pleasure at being fed, these are great energy-burners. Too often we try to physically exhaust our dogs with long walks without burning off any mental energy. The other advantage is that all dogs can do this, even the older ones which are no longer up to two hour walks or long games of fetch, but still need something to keep them occupied if they are not going to get depressed.
Have fun feeding your dog!
Ways to prevent boredom in “only” dogs!
Is your dog looking for a new challenge?
Does he have too much time on his paws and energy to spare despite your best efforts to exhaust him with long walks?
Perhaps you need to think again about his meal times.
For many dogs feeding times are the highlight of the day, but 30 seconds later the bowl is empty and he is left with nothing to look forward to. This is obviously a very unnatural situation. Wild dogs and wolves spend a large portion of time and effort acquiring food.
No one is suggesting that you stop feeding your dog and send him out to find his own dinner, but you can make getting food slightly more challenging.
The first step is to do away with the food bowl. Eating a pile of food is never going to be a challenge. Instead, try scattering dry food around the garden. Not only does this encourage your dog to use his nose, which is mentally tiring, but you will be amazed at how much energy he will expend criss-crossing the garden to ensure that he has found every
last crumb.
Try filling a plastic container with snacks and dry food. Then, as your dog nudges it around he will be rewarded with food falling out. Alternatively, suspending a similar container just above nose height will encourage aerial nudging! There are also commercial product such as the Buster® Cube which work the same way. If you really want to up the ante, stuff food into sterilised bones, or specially made toys such as a Kong®. These have an advantage as canned food can be put in as well. Once your dog gets adept at emptying his Kong®, try freezing it - that will slow him down a bit. Obviously supervise your dog when ever he is chewing toys to make sure he only eats the food and not the toy!
So why bother? Apart from prolonging your dog's mealtimes and consequently his pleasure at being fed, these are great energy-burners. Too often we try to physically exhaust our dogs with long walks without burning off any mental energy. The other advantage is that all dogs can do this, even the older ones which are no longer up to two hour walks or long games of fetch, but still need something to keep them occupied if they are not going to get depressed.
Have fun feeding your dog!
Sunday, July 12, 2009
WORLD OF DOGS AND CATS 16TH - 19TH JULY AT THE DOME!
Dont forget to pay a visit to the World of Dogs and Cats this year.
The Animal Behaviour Consultants of Southern Africa will be there in force as usual, and I will be available for behavioural and training advice on the Sunday. On the other days there will be other animal behaviourists available for any questions or queries.
Trade days are Thursday 16th and Friday 17th - with Saturday 18th and Sunday 19th being open to the public.
There will be lots of super stands and great animal stuff for sale. Also lots of exciting events in the main arena.
Would love to see you all there
Regards
Lou
The Animal Behaviour Consultants of Southern Africa will be there in force as usual, and I will be available for behavioural and training advice on the Sunday. On the other days there will be other animal behaviourists available for any questions or queries.
Trade days are Thursday 16th and Friday 17th - with Saturday 18th and Sunday 19th being open to the public.
There will be lots of super stands and great animal stuff for sale. Also lots of exciting events in the main arena.
Would love to see you all there
Regards
Lou
BBC Pulls out of Crufts - The biggest dog show in the world!
RSPCA Pulls Out of Crufts
September 15, 2008 by Freelance Writers
- Urgent change is needed to save the pedigree dog -
The RSPCA has suspended plans for a stand at Crufts and is calling for new measures to tackle the unacceptably high levels of disability, deformity and disease that threaten pedigree dogs.
In the wake of the BBC documentary Pedigree Dogs Exposed broadcast last month, the RSPCA has become increasingly concerned about the health and welfare of pedigree dogs - and this includes animals entered into ‘best of breed’ classes in dog shows like Crufts.
In the past, the RSPCA has staffed a stand at Crufts in order to promote general animal welfare issues.
RSPCA chief veterinary adviser Mark Evans said: “Dog shows using current breed standards as the main judging criteria actively encourage both the intentional breeding of deformed and disabled dogs and the inbreeding of closely related animals. There is compelling scientific evidence that the health and welfare of hundreds of thousands of pedigree dogs is seriously compromised as a result. From a dog health and welfare perspective, such shows are fundamentally flawed and do our much loved pedigree dogs no favours. Intentionally breeding deformed and disabled animals is morally unjustifiable and it has to stop.
“We want to see the emphasis shifted away from arbitrary appearance, so that health, welfare and temperament are considered first and foremost. We want to help ensure that pedigree dogs have the best possible chance of being fit, healthy and happy and well suited to the lives they will lead as pets. All those who benefit from pedigree dogs have a collective responsibility to solve what is now a very serious and totally unnecessary animal welfare problem - not just here in the UK, but around the world.”
The RSPCA has commissioned an independent review of the science in this field, and will be discussing its findings with relevant experts and stakeholders later this year. Amongst a raft of specific recommendations, the following themes have been identified as possible ways forward:
- An overhaul of the rules and requirements for pedigree dog registration and competitive dog showing (including breed standards). Health, welfare and temperament should be prioritised over appearance.- The development and implementation of health and welfare-focused breeding strategies for individual breeds. This should include pro-active steps to increase the genetic diversity of dog breeds.- More data collection and scientific analysis on causes of disease and death in dogs- Education, especially of would-be owners, to encourage demand for dogs which have the best possible chance of leading healthy, happy lives as pets.
“We know that hundreds of thousands of dogs are vulnerable to illness, pain, disability and behavioural problems because they’re primarily bred for how they look rather than with health, welfare and temperament in mind,” Mr Evans said.
“If things don’t change pedigree dogs will continue to suffer unnecessarily, and their welfare will continue to decline – this is totally unacceptable and can’t be allowed to happen. Careful breeding with an emphasis on health, welfare, temperament and quality of life is the only way to ensure a positive future for the pedigree dog.”
The RSPCA has also cancelled plans to attend the Discover Dogs show, due to take place in November.
ANY COMMENTS - WHAT ABOUT THE TREND IN SOUTH AFRICA???
September 15, 2008 by Freelance Writers
- Urgent change is needed to save the pedigree dog -
The RSPCA has suspended plans for a stand at Crufts and is calling for new measures to tackle the unacceptably high levels of disability, deformity and disease that threaten pedigree dogs.
In the wake of the BBC documentary Pedigree Dogs Exposed broadcast last month, the RSPCA has become increasingly concerned about the health and welfare of pedigree dogs - and this includes animals entered into ‘best of breed’ classes in dog shows like Crufts.
In the past, the RSPCA has staffed a stand at Crufts in order to promote general animal welfare issues.
RSPCA chief veterinary adviser Mark Evans said: “Dog shows using current breed standards as the main judging criteria actively encourage both the intentional breeding of deformed and disabled dogs and the inbreeding of closely related animals. There is compelling scientific evidence that the health and welfare of hundreds of thousands of pedigree dogs is seriously compromised as a result. From a dog health and welfare perspective, such shows are fundamentally flawed and do our much loved pedigree dogs no favours. Intentionally breeding deformed and disabled animals is morally unjustifiable and it has to stop.
“We want to see the emphasis shifted away from arbitrary appearance, so that health, welfare and temperament are considered first and foremost. We want to help ensure that pedigree dogs have the best possible chance of being fit, healthy and happy and well suited to the lives they will lead as pets. All those who benefit from pedigree dogs have a collective responsibility to solve what is now a very serious and totally unnecessary animal welfare problem - not just here in the UK, but around the world.”
The RSPCA has commissioned an independent review of the science in this field, and will be discussing its findings with relevant experts and stakeholders later this year. Amongst a raft of specific recommendations, the following themes have been identified as possible ways forward:
- An overhaul of the rules and requirements for pedigree dog registration and competitive dog showing (including breed standards). Health, welfare and temperament should be prioritised over appearance.- The development and implementation of health and welfare-focused breeding strategies for individual breeds. This should include pro-active steps to increase the genetic diversity of dog breeds.- More data collection and scientific analysis on causes of disease and death in dogs- Education, especially of would-be owners, to encourage demand for dogs which have the best possible chance of leading healthy, happy lives as pets.
“We know that hundreds of thousands of dogs are vulnerable to illness, pain, disability and behavioural problems because they’re primarily bred for how they look rather than with health, welfare and temperament in mind,” Mr Evans said.
“If things don’t change pedigree dogs will continue to suffer unnecessarily, and their welfare will continue to decline – this is totally unacceptable and can’t be allowed to happen. Careful breeding with an emphasis on health, welfare, temperament and quality of life is the only way to ensure a positive future for the pedigree dog.”
The RSPCA has also cancelled plans to attend the Discover Dogs show, due to take place in November.
ANY COMMENTS - WHAT ABOUT THE TREND IN SOUTH AFRICA???
DOG SHOWS - THE REAL TRUTH!
Recently on British TV a programe was aired where the truth was exposed on some of the issues surrounding "ethical breeding". The programme "Pedigree Dogs Exposed" outlined the genetic faults of numerous breeds, such as hip displacea in several large breeds, digestive disorders in GSD's, eye problems in B Collies, severe breathing problems with all the breeds who have flat faces (Bulldogs, Pugs, Pekes, etc) and highlighted the opinion of many that developing and continuing these breeds of dogs is cruel and not condusive to the betterment of any of the breeds. One of the breds highlighted was the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel of which a very high percentage suffer from a severe neurological disorder.
The programme also highlighted some of the most terrible conditions and breeding practices of so called "ethical" registered breeders. One usually associates such people with the back yard breeders, but the investigations showed that many of the "ethical" breeders were not much better than the supposed back yard competition ............... mmmn makes you think doesnt it!
I will try and get the report on the origional "Pedigree Dogs Exposed" for the next post!
This is some of the newest news from the UK.
Crufts On TV: Nicky Paull and The BVA Have Got it Wrong
July 12, 2009 by Ryan O'Meara
In the week that niche broadcaster More 4 announced it would screen Crufts in a ‘new style’, head of the British Veterinary Association Nicky Paull said: “We welcome More 4’s commitment to screening Crufts as a way to highlight health and welfare issues and inform viewers in an interesting and engaging way.”
This is, plainly, misguided and a frankly galling line of thought,one which again raises questions over the role of vets in the reform of canine health.
Following the head of the BVA’s support of televising Crufts, K9 Magazine spoke to a number of vets and asked for their views on the decision for their professional association to back the re-telvising of the largest British dog show.
The overriding view of the vets we spoke to was that the world of pedigree dog shows had not only done nothing for the benefit of canine health, it was one of the single most significant contributing factors to the problems affecting many thousands of dogs in many thousands of households.
“I am amazed that Nicky Paull has given this support. She speaks for our profession, as the head of the veterinary organisation that represents us and I an say with great certainty that neither I nor my colleagues feel the same way that what we needed was for Crufts to be back on the TV. It’s never educated anyone in the past and I’m 100% certain it won’t do in the future. I’m stunned.”
“If the documentary aired on the BBC last year showed us one thing it is that there is a massive problem that needs tackling amongst breeders and the pedigree dog world and that simply hasn’t happened yet. So why on earth is the head of the BVA coming out in support of Crufts being televised again? I thought we were starting to get somewhere. I thought that finally our clients were asking more of the right questions about health. I think this sends out a really confusing message about where vets actually stand on the issue of breeding for looks.” - said one of the vets, practicing for more than 23 years, who spoke to us.
Ms Paull’s logic is obscure and odd.
Suggesting that by giving airtime to the dog show, described by the RSCPA’s chief vet as ‘a parade of mutants’ it can help to “highlight health and welfare issues and inform viewers in an interesting and engaging way” is like saying we should be airing dog fights in order to educate and inform people as to the dangers and welfare horrors of that sport.
It’s an offensive suggestion and one which misses the greater point; that dog shows still have questions to answer and that nowhere near enough has been done to even begin the reforms in welfare and health standards that are required for dogs to be given a brighter future.
The BBC dropped Crufts for a REASON. The RSPCA walked away from Crufts for a REASON. The PDSA backed out of Crufts for a REASON. THOUSANDS of dog owners felt disgust at what Pedigree Dogs Exposed highlighted, for a REASON - but Nicky Paull obviously knows something that all of those organisations and well-informed people don’t. She has sold out dogs and sold out vets by giving support to Crufts on TV when there is still an ongoing report being conducted, which the BVA themselves are in involved with. It raises serious questions.
Speak to your own vet, see how much they support the view that Crufts is an ideal platform to highlight welfare issues in dogs. It’s an absurd idea -UNLESS, of course, the idea is to show dogs such as Bulldogs, Pekingnese and others and to explain how and why the dogs on your screen are very likely to die before they reach the age of 8, will suffer with a number of breathing problems, won’t be able to go out in hot weather and basically flash up a massive health warning on the screen saying ‘Do not buy this dog breed unless you REALLY want to spend a lot of time at the vets” - and the chance of that happening, as we all know, are nil.
After all, the BBC proposed a coverage of Crufts that would be more focussed on highlighting the health concerns, eliminating breeds that are ‘at risk’ and generally using the event as a platform to tell the truth about the dogs in question - and their proposal was REJECTED.
Let’s not kid ourselves. Would the KC really prefer Crufts on More 4 - a tiny channel in comparison to the world famous BBC - if More 4’s intention was to tell the truth, the whole truth and nothing but the truth about the state of health of ALL the pedigree breeds it will showcase to its minority interest viewers?
Are we really expected to believe that millions of dog lovers will tune in to More 4 to get an education about the health and welfare of pedigree dogs, by watching Crufts? Would we tune in to watch a world heavyweight boxing match in order to get an education about brain damage or would we watch the boxing because we simply enjoy watching boxing, regardless of the well-known downsides and consequences associated with that sport?
Don’t treat us like fools, BVA. We’re not. And neither are vets.
The vets we spoke to, rather than suggest you watch a controlled, entertainment event where dogs are there to be gawped at, were more enthused by the idea that viewers be invited to watch what happens daily in their surgeries up and down the country each day, to allow viewers to sit and watch the countless operations, treatments and procedures they are tasked with in helping to find solutions and care for diseased dogs who are suffering as a result of ‘competitive’ dog breeding.
If they REALLY wanted the public to have welfare issues ‘highlighted’, Crufts is probably ideal - but only if it is shown with constant warnings and a stream of cautions about the dogs. This won’t happen. Mark my words, this will not happen, for reasons already stated.
Crufts is at the very heart of competitive dog breeding and the notion that by putting it on the TV, the viewer will be given the full facts as to the problems within breeding and competitive dog exhibition is laughably short sighted and plainly wrong. One would have credited the head of the BVA with more sense than to assume otherwise.
Do we now ask channel 4 to brodcast live muggings in order to ‘highlight’ the harmful effect they have on families and victims?
Do we ask them to broadcast bull-fighting in order to ‘highligh’ the terrible suffering that goes on and to educate the public as to the welfare implications of that particular sport? Do we also expect that the broadcast coverage of these events to be done in association with the very body who organises the event in question and who profit from it?
Crufts has not been given a clean bill of health. Since Pedigree Dogs Exposed, the Kennel Club rushed through a set of breed standard changes, none of which have even had the time to take effect, let alone be measured - they outlawed first generation matings (Wow! How progressive of them) and they batted back the RSPCA review - which supported EVERYTHING that Pedigree Dogs Exposed revealed - as meaningless. There is another review currently underway - The Bateson review - which the BVA are involved with. So one is left to wonder how or why has Nicky Paull reached the conclusion that what the UK’s dogs and dog owners need is for Crufts to be back on TV after a year away?
K9 Magazine asked the question last year: Are vets playing their part in the fight against bad breeding practice and genetic disease in pedigree dogs?
Well that’s a question that is now even more shrouded in doubt.
MOST vets support better welfare and breeding practices for pedigree dogs. Nicky Paull’s support for a non reformed Crufts to find its way back on to TV is a shocker. It shows a lack of judgment and it is offensive to EVERY dog that has had to suffer as a result of horrendous breeding practices that have yet to be reformed and corrected and will be proudly showcased on More4 in 2010.
That none of the major broadcasters took up the opportunity to broadcast Crufts - the BBC, ITV, Sky etc - says a lot. That even Channel 4 wouldn’t put it on its ‘main’ channel is revealing. Yet the support of the head of the BVA is what raises the biggest questions.
The vets K9 Magazine have spoken to are amazed and dissapointed. One step forward, two steps back - and the head of their own veterinary association is happily leading those steps, in the wrong direction.Author DetailsRyan O'Meara is editor-in-chief of K9 Magazine, the lifestyle magazine for dog lovers.
The programme also highlighted some of the most terrible conditions and breeding practices of so called "ethical" registered breeders. One usually associates such people with the back yard breeders, but the investigations showed that many of the "ethical" breeders were not much better than the supposed back yard competition ............... mmmn makes you think doesnt it!
I will try and get the report on the origional "Pedigree Dogs Exposed" for the next post!
This is some of the newest news from the UK.
Crufts On TV: Nicky Paull and The BVA Have Got it Wrong
July 12, 2009 by Ryan O'Meara
In the week that niche broadcaster More 4 announced it would screen Crufts in a ‘new style’, head of the British Veterinary Association Nicky Paull said: “We welcome More 4’s commitment to screening Crufts as a way to highlight health and welfare issues and inform viewers in an interesting and engaging way.”
This is, plainly, misguided and a frankly galling line of thought,one which again raises questions over the role of vets in the reform of canine health.
Following the head of the BVA’s support of televising Crufts, K9 Magazine spoke to a number of vets and asked for their views on the decision for their professional association to back the re-telvising of the largest British dog show.
The overriding view of the vets we spoke to was that the world of pedigree dog shows had not only done nothing for the benefit of canine health, it was one of the single most significant contributing factors to the problems affecting many thousands of dogs in many thousands of households.
“I am amazed that Nicky Paull has given this support. She speaks for our profession, as the head of the veterinary organisation that represents us and I an say with great certainty that neither I nor my colleagues feel the same way that what we needed was for Crufts to be back on the TV. It’s never educated anyone in the past and I’m 100% certain it won’t do in the future. I’m stunned.”
“If the documentary aired on the BBC last year showed us one thing it is that there is a massive problem that needs tackling amongst breeders and the pedigree dog world and that simply hasn’t happened yet. So why on earth is the head of the BVA coming out in support of Crufts being televised again? I thought we were starting to get somewhere. I thought that finally our clients were asking more of the right questions about health. I think this sends out a really confusing message about where vets actually stand on the issue of breeding for looks.” - said one of the vets, practicing for more than 23 years, who spoke to us.
Ms Paull’s logic is obscure and odd.
Suggesting that by giving airtime to the dog show, described by the RSCPA’s chief vet as ‘a parade of mutants’ it can help to “highlight health and welfare issues and inform viewers in an interesting and engaging way” is like saying we should be airing dog fights in order to educate and inform people as to the dangers and welfare horrors of that sport.
It’s an offensive suggestion and one which misses the greater point; that dog shows still have questions to answer and that nowhere near enough has been done to even begin the reforms in welfare and health standards that are required for dogs to be given a brighter future.
The BBC dropped Crufts for a REASON. The RSPCA walked away from Crufts for a REASON. The PDSA backed out of Crufts for a REASON. THOUSANDS of dog owners felt disgust at what Pedigree Dogs Exposed highlighted, for a REASON - but Nicky Paull obviously knows something that all of those organisations and well-informed people don’t. She has sold out dogs and sold out vets by giving support to Crufts on TV when there is still an ongoing report being conducted, which the BVA themselves are in involved with. It raises serious questions.
Speak to your own vet, see how much they support the view that Crufts is an ideal platform to highlight welfare issues in dogs. It’s an absurd idea -UNLESS, of course, the idea is to show dogs such as Bulldogs, Pekingnese and others and to explain how and why the dogs on your screen are very likely to die before they reach the age of 8, will suffer with a number of breathing problems, won’t be able to go out in hot weather and basically flash up a massive health warning on the screen saying ‘Do not buy this dog breed unless you REALLY want to spend a lot of time at the vets” - and the chance of that happening, as we all know, are nil.
After all, the BBC proposed a coverage of Crufts that would be more focussed on highlighting the health concerns, eliminating breeds that are ‘at risk’ and generally using the event as a platform to tell the truth about the dogs in question - and their proposal was REJECTED.
Let’s not kid ourselves. Would the KC really prefer Crufts on More 4 - a tiny channel in comparison to the world famous BBC - if More 4’s intention was to tell the truth, the whole truth and nothing but the truth about the state of health of ALL the pedigree breeds it will showcase to its minority interest viewers?
Are we really expected to believe that millions of dog lovers will tune in to More 4 to get an education about the health and welfare of pedigree dogs, by watching Crufts? Would we tune in to watch a world heavyweight boxing match in order to get an education about brain damage or would we watch the boxing because we simply enjoy watching boxing, regardless of the well-known downsides and consequences associated with that sport?
Don’t treat us like fools, BVA. We’re not. And neither are vets.
The vets we spoke to, rather than suggest you watch a controlled, entertainment event where dogs are there to be gawped at, were more enthused by the idea that viewers be invited to watch what happens daily in their surgeries up and down the country each day, to allow viewers to sit and watch the countless operations, treatments and procedures they are tasked with in helping to find solutions and care for diseased dogs who are suffering as a result of ‘competitive’ dog breeding.
If they REALLY wanted the public to have welfare issues ‘highlighted’, Crufts is probably ideal - but only if it is shown with constant warnings and a stream of cautions about the dogs. This won’t happen. Mark my words, this will not happen, for reasons already stated.
Crufts is at the very heart of competitive dog breeding and the notion that by putting it on the TV, the viewer will be given the full facts as to the problems within breeding and competitive dog exhibition is laughably short sighted and plainly wrong. One would have credited the head of the BVA with more sense than to assume otherwise.
Do we now ask channel 4 to brodcast live muggings in order to ‘highlight’ the harmful effect they have on families and victims?
Do we ask them to broadcast bull-fighting in order to ‘highligh’ the terrible suffering that goes on and to educate the public as to the welfare implications of that particular sport? Do we also expect that the broadcast coverage of these events to be done in association with the very body who organises the event in question and who profit from it?
Crufts has not been given a clean bill of health. Since Pedigree Dogs Exposed, the Kennel Club rushed through a set of breed standard changes, none of which have even had the time to take effect, let alone be measured - they outlawed first generation matings (Wow! How progressive of them) and they batted back the RSPCA review - which supported EVERYTHING that Pedigree Dogs Exposed revealed - as meaningless. There is another review currently underway - The Bateson review - which the BVA are involved with. So one is left to wonder how or why has Nicky Paull reached the conclusion that what the UK’s dogs and dog owners need is for Crufts to be back on TV after a year away?
K9 Magazine asked the question last year: Are vets playing their part in the fight against bad breeding practice and genetic disease in pedigree dogs?
Well that’s a question that is now even more shrouded in doubt.
MOST vets support better welfare and breeding practices for pedigree dogs. Nicky Paull’s support for a non reformed Crufts to find its way back on to TV is a shocker. It shows a lack of judgment and it is offensive to EVERY dog that has had to suffer as a result of horrendous breeding practices that have yet to be reformed and corrected and will be proudly showcased on More4 in 2010.
That none of the major broadcasters took up the opportunity to broadcast Crufts - the BBC, ITV, Sky etc - says a lot. That even Channel 4 wouldn’t put it on its ‘main’ channel is revealing. Yet the support of the head of the BVA is what raises the biggest questions.
The vets K9 Magazine have spoken to are amazed and dissapointed. One step forward, two steps back - and the head of their own veterinary association is happily leading those steps, in the wrong direction.Author DetailsRyan O'Meara is editor-in-chief of K9 Magazine, the lifestyle magazine for dog lovers.
Friday, July 10, 2009
Gentle Paws Grooming Parlour Information
“GENTLE PAWS”
A NEW CONCEPT IN DOG GROOMING!
A Special Grooming Experience!
õ PLAYTIME: Treat your dog to an outing in the country! Grooming Becomes a treat for your dog – NOT A PUNISHMENT! All dogs are taken for a fun walk, and given the opportunity to run and play in our safe, escape proof, dog friendly, dog park, prior to grooming. This provides them with a good association with the grooming experience!
A NEW CONCEPT IN DOG GROOMING!
A Special Grooming Experience!
õ PLAYTIME: Treat your dog to an outing in the country! Grooming Becomes a treat for your dog – NOT A PUNISHMENT! All dogs are taken for a fun walk, and given the opportunity to run and play in our safe, escape proof, dog friendly, dog park, prior to grooming. This provides them with a good association with the grooming experience!
õ EXCLUSIVE, INDIVIDUAL ATTENTION!: During the week, only one family’s dogs are groomed at once and only one family’s dogs are on the premises at one time!
õ TRUST: No assistants/helpers! No stress! The owner undertakes all grooming, washing etc herself! Unhurried, gentle, dog grooming! For example: - If your dog has a hair dryer issue – no problem – no rush, he will be hand dried! We will adapt to suit the dog – on his terms – with his safety and comfort coming first!
õ COMFORT: No cages – dogs have a paved, shade play area in which to play and dry. All dogs are washed in warm water – All year round!
õ COMPETITIVE PRICES: No hidden costs. For badly matted or un-kept dogs, - just call for a price. No surprises!
õ DIFFICULT DOGS: If you have a dog with GROOMING ISSUES – WE CAN HELP! Gentle, gradual accustomisation programmes undertaken for dogs with grooming issues.
õ PREVENTION & TREATMENT: Early puppy accustomisation programme. Get your puppy used to grooming from an early age.
GENTLE PAWS – YOUR DOG IN SAFE HANDS!
NOW OPEN SATURDAY’S – BOOKING is ESSENTIAL!
Contact: Emma Thompson @ 082-923-9317
Electronic address. louthomp@mweb.co.za
Contact: Emma Thompson @ 082-923-9317
Electronic address. louthomp@mweb.co.za
What You Will Learn in Puppy School
“EARLY PUPPY EDUCATION GROUP - WHAT YOU AND YOUR PUPPY WILL LEARN”
EARLY PUPPY EDUCATION GROUP!
Pups may be admitted from about 7 weeks of age and remain in this group until about 5 ½ months of age. Proof of inoculation is compulsory! Puppy school is a time and place where puppies and owners are educated. The aim is to produce a well-adjusted, socially acceptable, adult companion animal. All exercises are taught as fun games and learning methods are reward-based, using the concept of positive reinforcement!
What we cover in class:
The principles of positive reinforcement learning.
Natural bite inhibition & passive, non-confrontational human leadership skills.
Leash skills – how to get your pup to walk on a loose leash.
Confidence-building exercises to produce a well-adjusted pup.
Inter-canine social skills.
Teaching your pup to reliably “come” when she is called.
Handling and examination skills.
Basic canine communication and behaviour.
Puppy stages of behavioural development.
Basic obedience exercises (sit, down, stand, recall, fetch, leave, wait, etc.).
Teaching your pup to concentrate.
Teaching the pup not to run away with your valuable possessions.
Basic puppy behaviour problem solving.
Basic puppy and dog care.
An accompanying in-depth homework book is provided for all new students.
Classes are held each Saturday morning at 8:00. Handlers are expected to be prompt and to be at the grounds 10 minutes before class. They are also expected to clean up after their pups, i.e. to “scoop the poop”. Do not feed your pup prior to class, as food is used as a motivator/training tool. Pups with a full tummy tend to sleep through the entire class – not conducive to learning!
WHAT TO BRING TO CLASS (Please wear old clothes!)
A hungry pup restrained on a light, flat collar (or harness) and soft leash.
Soft yummy dog treats.
A shallow water dish.
Dog brush and vitamin tablets – for pill-taking & grooming practice.
Toys for playtime.
A large sense of humour, and a willingness to learn new things.
Held under the direct supervision of our accredited animal behaviourist, Louise Thompson, and our experienced, understanding instructors. All exercises are performed individually and gentle methods are found to suit each individual puppy and handler.
We “LOVE” Puppies!
If you have any further questions about our early puppy education group, please do not hesitate to contact me.
Regards
Louise
EARLY PUPPY EDUCATION GROUP!
Pups may be admitted from about 7 weeks of age and remain in this group until about 5 ½ months of age. Proof of inoculation is compulsory! Puppy school is a time and place where puppies and owners are educated. The aim is to produce a well-adjusted, socially acceptable, adult companion animal. All exercises are taught as fun games and learning methods are reward-based, using the concept of positive reinforcement!
What we cover in class:
The principles of positive reinforcement learning.
Natural bite inhibition & passive, non-confrontational human leadership skills.
Leash skills – how to get your pup to walk on a loose leash.
Confidence-building exercises to produce a well-adjusted pup.
Inter-canine social skills.
Teaching your pup to reliably “come” when she is called.
Handling and examination skills.
Basic canine communication and behaviour.
Puppy stages of behavioural development.
Basic obedience exercises (sit, down, stand, recall, fetch, leave, wait, etc.).
Teaching your pup to concentrate.
Teaching the pup not to run away with your valuable possessions.
Basic puppy behaviour problem solving.
Basic puppy and dog care.
An accompanying in-depth homework book is provided for all new students.
Classes are held each Saturday morning at 8:00. Handlers are expected to be prompt and to be at the grounds 10 minutes before class. They are also expected to clean up after their pups, i.e. to “scoop the poop”. Do not feed your pup prior to class, as food is used as a motivator/training tool. Pups with a full tummy tend to sleep through the entire class – not conducive to learning!
WHAT TO BRING TO CLASS (Please wear old clothes!)
A hungry pup restrained on a light, flat collar (or harness) and soft leash.
Soft yummy dog treats.
A shallow water dish.
Dog brush and vitamin tablets – for pill-taking & grooming practice.
Toys for playtime.
A large sense of humour, and a willingness to learn new things.
Held under the direct supervision of our accredited animal behaviourist, Louise Thompson, and our experienced, understanding instructors. All exercises are performed individually and gentle methods are found to suit each individual puppy and handler.
We “LOVE” Puppies!
If you have any further questions about our early puppy education group, please do not hesitate to contact me.
Regards
Louise
Wednesday, July 8, 2009
What is Puppy School? (Early Puppy Education)
Puppy Socialising and Learning Class: The Pup Should Attend from 7/8 Weeks Old!
At puppy socialising groups, owners are taught how to be good pack leaders. Pack leadership is something that the handler learns through training, through specific exercises that are designed to teach a pup who is in charge in a non-conflict, non-aggressive manner.
Pups are taught that through co-operation comes respect. Handlers and pups are taught to work together- not against each other! It is important that training must begin at this early age, to avoid serious problems later on.
PUPPY SCHOOL AND EARLY EDUCATION:
Educating you and your puppy is a vital part of forming a relationship between you and your puppy. It has been proven that puppies that attend good socialising and learning classes develop into more socially acceptable companion animals and are easier to teach later on in their adolescence. They also present with fewer behavioural problems later on in life. Puppies should begin to attend a reputable puppy socialising and learning group as soon as possible.
Most reputable schools accept pups one week after their first inoculation:
In the past pups were not accepted at training class until they were six months of age. Remember the stages of development. At six months of age, many dogs are in the middle of their “fear of new situations” stage of development – not a great time to start something new!
Owners were also discouraged from taking pups out for health reasons, often being told by professionals that they should wait until their pup’s last inoculation at about four months.
With regard to the health issue, research from the USA and UK has proved that pups that are isolated from other animals have a lower immune resistance than pups that are exposed. The latter build up a far greater natural immunity! Another advantage of starting early is that if a good foundation is put down, both owner and pup avoid learning bad habits. Any possible problems are also detected early and are managed far sooner with greater success.
WHAT IS A PUPPY SCHOOL?
Puppy School is a place and time where you and your pup are educated. Your puppy learns to be a well-mannered, socially acceptable companion animal - a friend that enhances your life!
PUPPY SCHOOL IS NOT…..
A place where pups of any age indulge in wild unsupervised/unstructured play or are taught formal obedience training (that is only appropriate for a more mature dog).
THE VENUE
Make sure that the following are provided:
· A secure area for pups to have free, safe, work and play
· A large enough area for pups to play, but small enough for pups to feel secure.
· An area that is preferably grassed, which aids in creating a calming atmosphere).
· Plenty of shade and easily accessible fresh drinking water.
ATTENDANCE
All the family should be welcome (as should spectators and children) as long as they are well behaved!
WHAT OWNERS SHOULD BRING
· The puppy, restrained on a flat soft collar and soft long leash.
· Small "Soft Yummy Dog Treats" - highly palatable and easy to digest
· Bowl for water & plastic packets to "scoop the poop".
· Money (usually to be paid at first lesson).
· Hat (for owner) and wear comfortable, casual clothes/flat takkies or shoes (not sandals).
· Dog brush & dog toys.
· Current inoculation/vaccination certificate and a large sense of humour!
THE SCHOOL/INSTRUCTOR SHOULD PROVIDE/OFFER
· Enrolment form, which should state all relevant details of the pup including
. Inoculations/vaccinations, reference to owner’s goals and expectations for the pup's future.
· Easily accessible water.
· Dustbin.
· First aid kit.
· Booklets/literature/hand-outs on all relevant problems.
· Referral to retail outlets for training equipment, and other basic doggie necessities.
· Basic distraction/desensitisation equipment, to accustomise pups to everyday situations.
· Various noises to expose pups to, either on tape or other simulation.
· Some everyday-type physical obstacles to manoeuvre around.
· Exposure to other animals, i.e. livestock, cats, fowls, horses, etc.
· If possible - access to a safe "puppy friendly older dog" (role model.)
MINIMUM REQUIREMENTS OF INSTRUCTOR
· Knowledge of puppy development calendar and "critical stages" of canine development.
· Knowledge of breeds, breed characteristics, development, purpose and genetics.
· Knowledge of puppy health, care, hygiene and housing.
· Behavioural and training knowledge.
· Good communication skills.
· Experience in various disciplines of the dog sports.
· An open mind.
· A sense of humour.
LEARNING METHODS
· All learning should be "fun" for both pups and owners.
· Only kind, gentle and humane methods should be used.
· Positive reinforcement is the generally accepted way of modern training.
· No punishment or heavy-handed methods are acceptable.
. This includes check or choke chains, spike or electric collars, or any other tools of torture!
CRITERIA OF GROUP/CLASS
History and record-keeping is essential.
Requirements and purpose/aims of course.
Achievements, objectives and test.
Duration of course.
Weekly programme handouts or other forms of written material.
Care should be taken that the "CORRECT CHOICE" of puppy school is made. This is, after all, where your puppy's entire future character is to be moulded! You can even ask for a couple of references from previous puppy owners.
Should you, as the concerned puppy owner, have any doubts or misgivings regarding a class, TRUST YOUR INSTINCTS & LEAVE!
The Animal Behaviour Consultants of Southern Africa (©®™) can only recommend "Approved schools"! All ABC members who run Puppy Schools are bound by ABC Code of Ethics.
Registration with the ABC of SA offers the public protection from “Charlatans” and “Fly by Night” schools.
Should you experience any problems, Please contact the ABC:
See the ABC list of approved puppy schools on their website: www.animal-behaviour.org.za
Alternatively, contact the ABC of SA Secretary at - (011) 969-4467
At puppy socialising groups, owners are taught how to be good pack leaders. Pack leadership is something that the handler learns through training, through specific exercises that are designed to teach a pup who is in charge in a non-conflict, non-aggressive manner.
Pups are taught that through co-operation comes respect. Handlers and pups are taught to work together- not against each other! It is important that training must begin at this early age, to avoid serious problems later on.
PUPPY SCHOOL AND EARLY EDUCATION:
Educating you and your puppy is a vital part of forming a relationship between you and your puppy. It has been proven that puppies that attend good socialising and learning classes develop into more socially acceptable companion animals and are easier to teach later on in their adolescence. They also present with fewer behavioural problems later on in life. Puppies should begin to attend a reputable puppy socialising and learning group as soon as possible.
Most reputable schools accept pups one week after their first inoculation:
In the past pups were not accepted at training class until they were six months of age. Remember the stages of development. At six months of age, many dogs are in the middle of their “fear of new situations” stage of development – not a great time to start something new!
Owners were also discouraged from taking pups out for health reasons, often being told by professionals that they should wait until their pup’s last inoculation at about four months.
With regard to the health issue, research from the USA and UK has proved that pups that are isolated from other animals have a lower immune resistance than pups that are exposed. The latter build up a far greater natural immunity! Another advantage of starting early is that if a good foundation is put down, both owner and pup avoid learning bad habits. Any possible problems are also detected early and are managed far sooner with greater success.
WHAT IS A PUPPY SCHOOL?
Puppy School is a place and time where you and your pup are educated. Your puppy learns to be a well-mannered, socially acceptable companion animal - a friend that enhances your life!
PUPPY SCHOOL IS NOT…..
A place where pups of any age indulge in wild unsupervised/unstructured play or are taught formal obedience training (that is only appropriate for a more mature dog).
THE VENUE
Make sure that the following are provided:
· A secure area for pups to have free, safe, work and play
· A large enough area for pups to play, but small enough for pups to feel secure.
· An area that is preferably grassed, which aids in creating a calming atmosphere).
· Plenty of shade and easily accessible fresh drinking water.
ATTENDANCE
All the family should be welcome (as should spectators and children) as long as they are well behaved!
WHAT OWNERS SHOULD BRING
· The puppy, restrained on a flat soft collar and soft long leash.
· Small "Soft Yummy Dog Treats" - highly palatable and easy to digest
· Bowl for water & plastic packets to "scoop the poop".
· Money (usually to be paid at first lesson).
· Hat (for owner) and wear comfortable, casual clothes/flat takkies or shoes (not sandals).
· Dog brush & dog toys.
· Current inoculation/vaccination certificate and a large sense of humour!
THE SCHOOL/INSTRUCTOR SHOULD PROVIDE/OFFER
· Enrolment form, which should state all relevant details of the pup including
. Inoculations/vaccinations, reference to owner’s goals and expectations for the pup's future.
· Easily accessible water.
· Dustbin.
· First aid kit.
· Booklets/literature/hand-outs on all relevant problems.
· Referral to retail outlets for training equipment, and other basic doggie necessities.
· Basic distraction/desensitisation equipment, to accustomise pups to everyday situations.
· Various noises to expose pups to, either on tape or other simulation.
· Some everyday-type physical obstacles to manoeuvre around.
· Exposure to other animals, i.e. livestock, cats, fowls, horses, etc.
· If possible - access to a safe "puppy friendly older dog" (role model.)
MINIMUM REQUIREMENTS OF INSTRUCTOR
· Knowledge of puppy development calendar and "critical stages" of canine development.
· Knowledge of breeds, breed characteristics, development, purpose and genetics.
· Knowledge of puppy health, care, hygiene and housing.
· Behavioural and training knowledge.
· Good communication skills.
· Experience in various disciplines of the dog sports.
· An open mind.
· A sense of humour.
LEARNING METHODS
· All learning should be "fun" for both pups and owners.
· Only kind, gentle and humane methods should be used.
· Positive reinforcement is the generally accepted way of modern training.
· No punishment or heavy-handed methods are acceptable.
. This includes check or choke chains, spike or electric collars, or any other tools of torture!
CRITERIA OF GROUP/CLASS
History and record-keeping is essential.
Requirements and purpose/aims of course.
Achievements, objectives and test.
Duration of course.
Weekly programme handouts or other forms of written material.
Care should be taken that the "CORRECT CHOICE" of puppy school is made. This is, after all, where your puppy's entire future character is to be moulded! You can even ask for a couple of references from previous puppy owners.
Should you, as the concerned puppy owner, have any doubts or misgivings regarding a class, TRUST YOUR INSTINCTS & LEAVE!
The Animal Behaviour Consultants of Southern Africa (©®™) can only recommend "Approved schools"! All ABC members who run Puppy Schools are bound by ABC Code of Ethics.
Registration with the ABC of SA offers the public protection from “Charlatans” and “Fly by Night” schools.
Should you experience any problems, Please contact the ABC:
See the ABC list of approved puppy schools on their website: www.animal-behaviour.org.za
Alternatively, contact the ABC of SA Secretary at - (011) 969-4467
Dying to Entertain You
We continue to put our heads in the sand - no more has been heard about the impending entry of greyhound racing into SA - there is more than enough evidence to prove that it is an inhumane and evil industry - but because of money it will probably go through.
Here is another article from the UK K9 Mag - re the UK greyhound racing scene.
If the "sport" cannot be adequately monitored and/or controlled in "Civilised" countries - what hope are we going to have in SA!
Dying to Entertain You
July 7, 2009 by K9 Magazine News Editor
In May 2008, the Sunday Times exposed the largest greyhound breeder in Great Britain - Charles Pickering - selling puppies which would not chase or proved too slow to Liverpool University for research and dissection.
Greyt Exploitations submitted a Freedom Of Information request to the university to ascertain the number of pups involved and the source of funding.
In their response, the university divulged some very sensitive information - clearly unaware of how damaging it would be for the greyhound racing industry.
In total 62 greyhounds were used at the university, 16 ‘donated’ by their owners but also a further 46 that had been destroyed by the track vet at Manchester’s Belle Vue stadium.
Tragically, of the 46 dogs destroyed at Belle Vue, 39 had sustained racing injuries, the vast majority minor but all were deemed ‘uneconomical’ to treat. Similarly, 7 dogs were deemed ‘uneconomical’ to re-home and as a consequence were also destroyed.
In just one month alone - September 2008 - Belle Vue supplied 9 cadavers to Liverpool University.
The research is part funded by the Greyhound Board of Great Britain, who also gave a student vacation bursary of £1,200.
A further 4 greyhounds have recently been raced to deaths at Belle Vue. Happy Hawk, Liam Maldini, Blue Fern and Balreask Touch, all within the space of two weeks. And let us not forget Frisby Foreman who’s fateful end was broadcast on live television from Belle Vue.
It is estimated at least 1,500 greyhounds sustain injuries annually on British tracks, resulting in destruction. However, this estimation does not include those young dogs forced to trial on unfamiliar tracks, where the injury rate is potentially far greater.
“This sorry state of affairs cannot continue. Dogs are being chewed up and spat out of an industry which ultimately treats greyhounds as disposable commodities, rather than sentient animals for which it is responsible.” Becky Blackmore - RSPCA
Please have the courage to watch this video, which graphically depicts how these beautiful dogs are literally ‘dying’ to entertain you -12 hours a day - 7 days a week
http://greytexploitations.com/resources-and-reports/dying-to-entertain-you
www.greytexploitations.com
Here is another article from the UK K9 Mag - re the UK greyhound racing scene.
If the "sport" cannot be adequately monitored and/or controlled in "Civilised" countries - what hope are we going to have in SA!
Dying to Entertain You
July 7, 2009 by K9 Magazine News Editor
In May 2008, the Sunday Times exposed the largest greyhound breeder in Great Britain - Charles Pickering - selling puppies which would not chase or proved too slow to Liverpool University for research and dissection.
Greyt Exploitations submitted a Freedom Of Information request to the university to ascertain the number of pups involved and the source of funding.
In their response, the university divulged some very sensitive information - clearly unaware of how damaging it would be for the greyhound racing industry.
In total 62 greyhounds were used at the university, 16 ‘donated’ by their owners but also a further 46 that had been destroyed by the track vet at Manchester’s Belle Vue stadium.
Tragically, of the 46 dogs destroyed at Belle Vue, 39 had sustained racing injuries, the vast majority minor but all were deemed ‘uneconomical’ to treat. Similarly, 7 dogs were deemed ‘uneconomical’ to re-home and as a consequence were also destroyed.
In just one month alone - September 2008 - Belle Vue supplied 9 cadavers to Liverpool University.
The research is part funded by the Greyhound Board of Great Britain, who also gave a student vacation bursary of £1,200.
A further 4 greyhounds have recently been raced to deaths at Belle Vue. Happy Hawk, Liam Maldini, Blue Fern and Balreask Touch, all within the space of two weeks. And let us not forget Frisby Foreman who’s fateful end was broadcast on live television from Belle Vue.
It is estimated at least 1,500 greyhounds sustain injuries annually on British tracks, resulting in destruction. However, this estimation does not include those young dogs forced to trial on unfamiliar tracks, where the injury rate is potentially far greater.
“This sorry state of affairs cannot continue. Dogs are being chewed up and spat out of an industry which ultimately treats greyhounds as disposable commodities, rather than sentient animals for which it is responsible.” Becky Blackmore - RSPCA
Please have the courage to watch this video, which graphically depicts how these beautiful dogs are literally ‘dying’ to entertain you -12 hours a day - 7 days a week
http://greytexploitations.com/resources-and-reports/dying-to-entertain-you
www.greytexploitations.com
What is Paws Abilities?
Paws Abilities is a unique environment where dogs and owners are educated without stress or force. Each dog and handler are treated as individuals, with their own personalities, and needs.
We really are blessed to have really fantastic facilities The school is situated in a rural enviroment, on a quiet lane. We operate on a four acre, tree lined (fully fenced) field - great for hot summer days! The environment was specifically created to provide dogs and owners with a stress free learning enviroment. We even have specially created play areas (for supervised free play) we also have a doggie spash pond, doggie treats (and human refreshments) and doggie equipment, chews and toys on sale - and even have (people) toilet facilites!
We are constantly upgrading our grounds and facilities and pride ourselves on offering the widest range of dog training disiplines and activities to suit every dog and owner.
Our doggie activities include
Early puppy education
Specialised clicker courses
Good citizen courses
Social groups
Formal (show standard) obedience
Social obedience
Dog (contact) agility and dog jumping
Our Dog Sports class is a "first" in South Africa
and includes newly developed fun activities for (advanced) dogs - away from the grind of formal dog training (obedience) a sport where the dogs have fun and learn to use their minds!
Our Instructors are also one of a kind.
Their requirements are as follows:-
“PAWS ABILITIES”
Our Dog Training INSTRUCTORS
Have Vast EXPERIENCE in Many Dog
Disciplines/Dog Sports, TO COMPETITIVE LEVELS!
INSTRUCTOR REQUIREMENTS!
· 3 – 5 years, practical experience, as a handler, at a reputable, positive reinforcement obedience school, & proof of competitive achievements within the Kennel Union / Federation organisations, in one or more disciplines.
· Proof of attendance of training seminars and workshops! (Education of instructors is on-going)
· Dog “Breed” knowledge – genetics/breed characteristics.
· A sound scientific knowledge of basic canine behaviour.
· Knowledge of the critical stages of early canine development.
· Knowledge of many different, gentle, non-confrontational, positive reinforcement, training methods.
· People skills, the desire to learn, an open mind, and a sense of humour!
THUS, OUR INSTRUCTORS POSSESS.
· People & dog handling/training and behaviour skills;
· An extensive knowledge of canine communication / behaviour;
· Basic problem solving; A training class is not a suitable platform for solving serious behaviour problems, more often, such behaviour problems need individual counselling, and on going behaviour modification.
· Ways to avoid, reduce, resolve, and eliminate aggression without the use of force and punishment.
· Knowledge of many, different non-correction, positive reinforcement training methods. Essential, as each dog is different, each handler is different and the combinations thereof are infinite;
· Extensive knowledge on “problem solving” training, & knowledge of the many various different dog sports & disciplines.
Knowledge of the different KUSA/Federation ring requirements.
Apart from the above - they are really a great friendly crowd!
Chat soon
Louise
We really are blessed to have really fantastic facilities The school is situated in a rural enviroment, on a quiet lane. We operate on a four acre, tree lined (fully fenced) field - great for hot summer days! The environment was specifically created to provide dogs and owners with a stress free learning enviroment. We even have specially created play areas (for supervised free play) we also have a doggie spash pond, doggie treats (and human refreshments) and doggie equipment, chews and toys on sale - and even have (people) toilet facilites!
We are constantly upgrading our grounds and facilities and pride ourselves on offering the widest range of dog training disiplines and activities to suit every dog and owner.
Our doggie activities include
Early puppy education
Specialised clicker courses
Good citizen courses
Social groups
Formal (show standard) obedience
Social obedience
Dog (contact) agility and dog jumping
Our Dog Sports class is a "first" in South Africa
and includes newly developed fun activities for (advanced) dogs - away from the grind of formal dog training (obedience) a sport where the dogs have fun and learn to use their minds!
Our Instructors are also one of a kind.
Their requirements are as follows:-
“PAWS ABILITIES”
Our Dog Training INSTRUCTORS
Have Vast EXPERIENCE in Many Dog
Disciplines/Dog Sports, TO COMPETITIVE LEVELS!
INSTRUCTOR REQUIREMENTS!
· 3 – 5 years, practical experience, as a handler, at a reputable, positive reinforcement obedience school, & proof of competitive achievements within the Kennel Union / Federation organisations, in one or more disciplines.
· Proof of attendance of training seminars and workshops! (Education of instructors is on-going)
· Dog “Breed” knowledge – genetics/breed characteristics.
· A sound scientific knowledge of basic canine behaviour.
· Knowledge of the critical stages of early canine development.
· Knowledge of many different, gentle, non-confrontational, positive reinforcement, training methods.
· People skills, the desire to learn, an open mind, and a sense of humour!
THUS, OUR INSTRUCTORS POSSESS.
· People & dog handling/training and behaviour skills;
· An extensive knowledge of canine communication / behaviour;
· Basic problem solving; A training class is not a suitable platform for solving serious behaviour problems, more often, such behaviour problems need individual counselling, and on going behaviour modification.
· Ways to avoid, reduce, resolve, and eliminate aggression without the use of force and punishment.
· Knowledge of many, different non-correction, positive reinforcement training methods. Essential, as each dog is different, each handler is different and the combinations thereof are infinite;
· Extensive knowledge on “problem solving” training, & knowledge of the many various different dog sports & disciplines.
Knowledge of the different KUSA/Federation ring requirements.
Apart from the above - they are really a great friendly crowd!
Chat soon
Louise
K9 Good Citizen Test - Still a couple of bookings left
Last chance to book for our K9 Good Citizen Test
This is being held on the 25th of July at our Training Grounds in Benoni
There are still a couple of places open.
This is not a formal obedience test but rather a test to see if you have a well adjusted, socialised, well mannered dog.
The test includes the following;-
Test 1: GROOM
The Evaluator will inspect the dog to see if it appears healthy, is clean and groomed and will permit a stranger such as a vet to examine it. The Evaluator then combs or brushes the dog and lightly examines the ears and front of each foot to see if it will accept grooming from someone other than its owner.
Test 2 PUTTING ON A COLLAR AND LEAD
The dog should have a well fitting buckle or slip collar of leather, fabric or chain. Special collars such as pinch or spike' collars are not permitted. The lead must be either leather or fabric.
Test 3 PRESENT FOR EXAMINATION ON A LEAD
The purpose of this Test is to see if the dog can be examined by a Judge or a Vet without it becoming aggressive or flinching. On a lead the handler will present the dog to the Evaluator for a gentle examination of its mouth, teeth, throat, eyes, ears and feet.
Test 4 PRAISE /PRESENTATION
The Test is to demonstrate that a dog can be calmed easily following praise or play and can leave the Test in a well mannered fashion. The handler may praise the dog verbally, petting, playing with a toy and / or favourite trick, in the allowed ten (10) seconds of play and then must calm the dog for the next test.
Test 6 RELEASE FROM LEAD, PLAY WITH OR WITHOUT TOY, RECALL AND ATTACH LEAD
The purpose of this Test is to see if a dog can play happily off lead and be recalled and be put on a lead. The handler will release the dog from the lead and either play with it and throw some object for it to fetch and play with, then recall it and attach to lead.
Test 6 WALK ON LEAD WITHOUT DISTRACTION (WALKING ON A LOOSE LEAD)
The purpose of this Test is to demonstrate that the handler is in control. The dog must be on the left side of the handler but need not be in the heel" position. There should be no doubt that the dog's attention is on the handler and it responds to movements and changes of direction. The course taken must include a left turn, right turn, an about turn, a stop in between and another at the end of the Test. The dog does not have to be perfectly aligned with the handler, nor sit when the handler stops.
Test 7 REACTION TO DISTRACTIONS
This Test is to demonstrate the dog is confident at all times when facing a distraction. The Evaluator must select two (2) of the following for this Test (they need not be the same for each dog).
Simulation of a handicapped person with crutches, a walker or a wheelchair (manual or motorised).
Sudden opening or closing of a door or solid gate.
Dropping a large book or similar object behind the dog but no closer than three (3) metres.
A jogger passing in front of the dog.
Good natured pushing or shoving or animated talk, excited talk and back slapping by people, with the dog and handler passing within three (3) metres.
Someone pushing a pram, or shopping cart from the front or rear and passing within two (2) metres of the dog.
A ridden bicycle passing front or rear within two (2) metres of the dog.
The dog may express natural curiosity and interest and may startle, but should not panic, try to run away, show aggressiveness or bark.
Test 8 WALK ON LEAD, PASSING THROUGH A DOOR OR GATE
The dog should walk confidently through the door/gate and should not shy away from it.
Test 9 REACTION TO ANOTHER DOG
This Test is to demonstrate the proper behaviour in the presence of other dogs. Starting at a distance of ten (10) metres from each other two handlers walk towards each other, meet, stop, shake hands, exchange a few words and continue for about five (5) metres. The dogs should demonstrate only casual interest. Neither dog should go to the other dog or handler.
Test 10 WALK ON A LEAD PASSING PEOPLE AND DOGS
This Test is to demonstrate that the dog should have no difficulty in walking through pedestrian traffic. The dog will walk around and close to several persons, at least four (4) one of whom should have a dog. The dog may show interest in the strangers and the dog, but should continue to walk without any evidence of shyness or over exuberance and should not be pulling at the lead. Throughout this Test the handler may encourage, praise or talk to his dog.
Test 11 ACCEPTING A STRANGER
This Test is to see that a stranger can approach the dog and handler in a casual,
every day situation. Ignoring the dog the Evaluator will walk up to the handler and greet him in a friendly way and shake hands. The dog must show no signs of resentment or shyness and must not leave his position to go to the stranger. Sitting politely for petting by a friendly stranger, with the dog sitting at the handler's side, the Evaluator pets the dog only on the head and body, and then circles the dog and handler which completes the Test.
Test 12 LIE DOWN AND STAY TO COMMAND
This Test is to demonstrate that the dog has some training and will respond to the handler's commands. Taking reasonable time, the handler commands the dog first to “sit” and then to “lie down", using as many commands as he likes. He must not force the dog into position. The "stay” command is then given and the handler walks about seven (7) metres from the dog and returns at a natural walking pace to the dog, which must maintain its position until the handler returns and the Evaluator gives permission for the dog to move.
Test 13 SUPERVISED ISOLATION
This Test is to demonstrate a dog can be left alone, if necessary, whilst maintaining its training and good manners. Evaluators are encouraged to say something like “would you like me to watch your dog while you make your call?", both to add a touch of reality and to accentuate the fact that leaving a dog tied up and unsupervised is not condoned. The dog will be attached to a two (2) metre line. It does not have to stay in position but should not continually bark, whine, howl, pace unnecessarily or show any behaviour with a mild agitation or nervousness.
CERTIFICATES AND AWARDS
Once all the Tests have been completed and marked “Pass" and signed off the organising body will issue the dog with a rosette and a numbered KUSA Canine Good Citizen Certificate. They will send the participant's copy of the Test Sheet to KUSA.
If you have any further queries or questions please dont hesitate to give me a call on louthomp@mweb.co.za
Regards
Louise
This is being held on the 25th of July at our Training Grounds in Benoni
There are still a couple of places open.
This is not a formal obedience test but rather a test to see if you have a well adjusted, socialised, well mannered dog.
The test includes the following;-
Test 1: GROOM
The Evaluator will inspect the dog to see if it appears healthy, is clean and groomed and will permit a stranger such as a vet to examine it. The Evaluator then combs or brushes the dog and lightly examines the ears and front of each foot to see if it will accept grooming from someone other than its owner.
Test 2 PUTTING ON A COLLAR AND LEAD
The dog should have a well fitting buckle or slip collar of leather, fabric or chain. Special collars such as pinch or spike' collars are not permitted. The lead must be either leather or fabric.
Test 3 PRESENT FOR EXAMINATION ON A LEAD
The purpose of this Test is to see if the dog can be examined by a Judge or a Vet without it becoming aggressive or flinching. On a lead the handler will present the dog to the Evaluator for a gentle examination of its mouth, teeth, throat, eyes, ears and feet.
Test 4 PRAISE /PRESENTATION
The Test is to demonstrate that a dog can be calmed easily following praise or play and can leave the Test in a well mannered fashion. The handler may praise the dog verbally, petting, playing with a toy and / or favourite trick, in the allowed ten (10) seconds of play and then must calm the dog for the next test.
Test 6 RELEASE FROM LEAD, PLAY WITH OR WITHOUT TOY, RECALL AND ATTACH LEAD
The purpose of this Test is to see if a dog can play happily off lead and be recalled and be put on a lead. The handler will release the dog from the lead and either play with it and throw some object for it to fetch and play with, then recall it and attach to lead.
Test 6 WALK ON LEAD WITHOUT DISTRACTION (WALKING ON A LOOSE LEAD)
The purpose of this Test is to demonstrate that the handler is in control. The dog must be on the left side of the handler but need not be in the heel" position. There should be no doubt that the dog's attention is on the handler and it responds to movements and changes of direction. The course taken must include a left turn, right turn, an about turn, a stop in between and another at the end of the Test. The dog does not have to be perfectly aligned with the handler, nor sit when the handler stops.
Test 7 REACTION TO DISTRACTIONS
This Test is to demonstrate the dog is confident at all times when facing a distraction. The Evaluator must select two (2) of the following for this Test (they need not be the same for each dog).
Simulation of a handicapped person with crutches, a walker or a wheelchair (manual or motorised).
Sudden opening or closing of a door or solid gate.
Dropping a large book or similar object behind the dog but no closer than three (3) metres.
A jogger passing in front of the dog.
Good natured pushing or shoving or animated talk, excited talk and back slapping by people, with the dog and handler passing within three (3) metres.
Someone pushing a pram, or shopping cart from the front or rear and passing within two (2) metres of the dog.
A ridden bicycle passing front or rear within two (2) metres of the dog.
The dog may express natural curiosity and interest and may startle, but should not panic, try to run away, show aggressiveness or bark.
Test 8 WALK ON LEAD, PASSING THROUGH A DOOR OR GATE
The dog should walk confidently through the door/gate and should not shy away from it.
Test 9 REACTION TO ANOTHER DOG
This Test is to demonstrate the proper behaviour in the presence of other dogs. Starting at a distance of ten (10) metres from each other two handlers walk towards each other, meet, stop, shake hands, exchange a few words and continue for about five (5) metres. The dogs should demonstrate only casual interest. Neither dog should go to the other dog or handler.
Test 10 WALK ON A LEAD PASSING PEOPLE AND DOGS
This Test is to demonstrate that the dog should have no difficulty in walking through pedestrian traffic. The dog will walk around and close to several persons, at least four (4) one of whom should have a dog. The dog may show interest in the strangers and the dog, but should continue to walk without any evidence of shyness or over exuberance and should not be pulling at the lead. Throughout this Test the handler may encourage, praise or talk to his dog.
Test 11 ACCEPTING A STRANGER
This Test is to see that a stranger can approach the dog and handler in a casual,
every day situation. Ignoring the dog the Evaluator will walk up to the handler and greet him in a friendly way and shake hands. The dog must show no signs of resentment or shyness and must not leave his position to go to the stranger. Sitting politely for petting by a friendly stranger, with the dog sitting at the handler's side, the Evaluator pets the dog only on the head and body, and then circles the dog and handler which completes the Test.
Test 12 LIE DOWN AND STAY TO COMMAND
This Test is to demonstrate that the dog has some training and will respond to the handler's commands. Taking reasonable time, the handler commands the dog first to “sit” and then to “lie down", using as many commands as he likes. He must not force the dog into position. The "stay” command is then given and the handler walks about seven (7) metres from the dog and returns at a natural walking pace to the dog, which must maintain its position until the handler returns and the Evaluator gives permission for the dog to move.
Test 13 SUPERVISED ISOLATION
This Test is to demonstrate a dog can be left alone, if necessary, whilst maintaining its training and good manners. Evaluators are encouraged to say something like “would you like me to watch your dog while you make your call?", both to add a touch of reality and to accentuate the fact that leaving a dog tied up and unsupervised is not condoned. The dog will be attached to a two (2) metre line. It does not have to stay in position but should not continually bark, whine, howl, pace unnecessarily or show any behaviour with a mild agitation or nervousness.
CERTIFICATES AND AWARDS
Once all the Tests have been completed and marked “Pass" and signed off the organising body will issue the dog with a rosette and a numbered KUSA Canine Good Citizen Certificate. They will send the participant's copy of the Test Sheet to KUSA.
If you have any further queries or questions please dont hesitate to give me a call on louthomp@mweb.co.za
Regards
Louise
WELCOME
Welcome to the new Paws Abilities Behaviour & Learning Centre Blog.
I am pretty new at this, so beg the indulgence of anyone who is a pc geek!
I will be publishing our monthly newsletter on this blog, as well as trying to keep everyone up to date with news, views and any items of interest. In addition, will try to keep up with world events on animal rights, and many other controversial and topical items of interest.
This platform can also be used to discuss and answer any queries relating to animals, behaviour and training and I will do my best to answer any questions that are presented to me.
It will also be a great way for us all to keep in touch!
Looking forward to "blogging"
Regards
Louise
I am pretty new at this, so beg the indulgence of anyone who is a pc geek!
I will be publishing our monthly newsletter on this blog, as well as trying to keep everyone up to date with news, views and any items of interest. In addition, will try to keep up with world events on animal rights, and many other controversial and topical items of interest.
This platform can also be used to discuss and answer any queries relating to animals, behaviour and training and I will do my best to answer any questions that are presented to me.
It will also be a great way for us all to keep in touch!
Looking forward to "blogging"
Regards
Louise
“Paws Abilities”Behaviour & Learning Centre
WELCOME YOU TO THE WONDERFUL WORLD OF DOGDOM!
Thank you for showing an interest in the services we offer at Paws Abilities Behaviour and Learning Centre. You and your dog are about to begin an exciting journey, where you will both grow and develop, and have an opportunity to reach your full potential through mutual co-operation and respect! Please note that proof of inoculation is required upon joining. This is for your dog’s protection and to ensure the safety of all the dogs in the school.
WE PROVIDE: A safe rural environment; Club house & shade areas; Toilet facilities; Fully fenced exercise and socialising areas. Regular fun events and socials; A regular informative electronic newsletter; Dog shows/fun days/charity events. We have on sale: Gentle, non-confrontational, passive, dog training equipment; Toys; Treats; Chews; Behaviour and Training books and booklets; Refreshments, etc.
PLEASE NOTE:
We do not run our school like a military boot camp! Specially developed, fun exercises, make learning fun, for both owner and dog. Only positive reinforcement / reward methods are used. No CORRECTIVE training methods are allowed. No choke chains, no yelling, no punishment, and no jerking leashes - EVER!
INDEX OF CONTENTS – PAGE ONE TO EIGHT:
Page: Subject:
1. Welcome
2. Paws Abilities Dog Training School - School Rules
3. Problem Pets?, Private, confidential, behaviour consultations for problem pets.
4. Prepare your existing dog for the arrival of a new (human) baby - addition to the family!
5. Early puppy education – for pups from 8 weeks of age (proof of inoculation required)
6. Saturday Training Classes - Timetable and info
7. Personal Paws – Specialised, personal, private training (Not available Saturdays).
Training "tailor made" for your individual needs and requirements. Booking essential.
8. Gentle Paws Grooming Parlour – Your Dog in Safe Hands: The “open plan” grooming parlour with a difference! Owner undertakes all grooming personally – no helpers!
Special, gradual accustomisation programmes developed for difficult dogs – no force.
Stress free grooming! Now taking Saturday bookings!
TRAINING FEES / PAYMENT
All new students are required to pay two-months training fees in advance (R180 per month) and a once off “joining” fee of R100.00 per family. The joining fee includes an in-depth homework manual, monthly electronic newsletter, access to regular workshops, social events and much more! Thereafter fees are payable monthly in advance. Agility Training for existing students/members is R50-00 per month, (payable monthly in advance) which is used for maintenance and/or the purchase of new equipment. Students enrolling just for the agility class will be charged the same as any other new student. The cost of behavioural consultations is available on enquiry, and varies according to time/location, etc. An average of two hours is needed in order to observe the dog an obtain an adequate history.
We are very much aware of the costs charged by other schools/clubs, and can categorically state, that we still offer the most diverse training available, and generally provide the best facilities (which we continually strive to improve). In saying that, I would like to take this opportunity to thank each of our students and clients for their loyal support.
Please do not hesitate to contact me should you have any further questions or queries.
082-890-0905 louthomp@mweb.co.za
Kind Regards
Louise
PAWS ABILITIES SCHOOL RULES
õ PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE RESPECT OUR GROUNDS AND EQUIPMENT – We have all worked sooooo hard to get and maintain our school and grounds. If your dog digs ANYWHERE PLEASE fill in the hole!! If your dog destroys something – fix it or replace it! We have wonderful facilities LETS ALL LOOK AFTER THEM!
õ If you use any of our training equipment, please pack it away after you have finished with it. In addition PLEASE DON’T LET YOUR MALE DOGS URINATE ON OUR AGILITY EQUIPMENT OR ON OUR NICE NEW CLUB HOUSE VERHANDA!!!
õ SCOOP THE POOP: Handlers must clean up after their dogs toilet!!! Packets are provided, as are bins for the disposal of waste. DON’T LET YOUR DOGS TOILET IN TRAINING AREAS – the scent is extremely distracting when the other dogs are working. This is also to encourage future good ring craft and good dog owner manners. OWNERS WHO DON’T TO “SCOOP THE POOP”
WILL BE FINED!!!
õ PUNCUALITY: Handlers should arrive at the grounds at least 15 minutes prior to class. This is so that the dog can be taken for a slow stroll, can have a good sniff, can be provided with toilet opportunities (a full bowel is not conducive to learning), and a chance to settle down. Handlers arriving late will not be permitted to join a class until this has been done.
õ DON’T DISRUPT YOUR CLASS: – If you arrive LATE (and the class is busy with an exercise) don’t barge into the group, and disrupt the entire class! Be considerate of others and please show respect for the dogs who are working and trying to concentrate. Wait quietly in the background, until the particular exercise is completed.
õ RESPECT OTHER DOGS PERSONAL SPACE – PLEASE Don’t crowd, or encroach on another dogs space – especially a dog/s you don’t know. REMEMBER THAT NOT ALL DOGS ARE SOCIALABLE AND FRIENDLY!!!
õ SOCIALISING: Dogs are not permitted to socialise during class without instructor permission. Handlers are, however, encouraged to stay after training in order to permit their dogs to socialise (if the dogs are compatible). Dogs must learn the difference between work and play. During class, the only play that should be permitted is play learning or structured play - between handler and dog. This assists the learning process. It helps to make the handler more “valuable” and, in that matter, makes the dog more eager to please her.
õ HOMEWORK: As all learning is achieved through the “building-block” approach, all handlers should prepare themselves and their dogs for the following week’s lesson by putting into practice what they have learnt in class at home. This does not have to be formal homework. It is quite sufficient for a handler to perform three to five minutes’ homework a day as part of their daily routine. There is no excuse for not being able to perform a couple of minutes’ homework a day!
õ METHODOLOGY: All training methods must utilise positive reinforcement. No harsh treatment of dogs will be permitted. In addition, all training equipment must be approved by instructors. Equipment that could be considered inhumane or painful may not be used. No choke chains, pinch collars, or electric collars are permitted. With “difficult” dogs, alternative non-confrontational methods will be found. The problem could also be solved through a private behaviour consultation or private individual lessons, until such a time that the handler possesses a level of control where the dog will not disrupt a class or pose a danger to other dogs/handlers or to the public.
õ CONTROL: During training class, all dogs are to be kept on leash, unless told otherwise by an instructor.
õ NO BITCHES IN SEASON are permitted onto the grounds.
õ When on the grounds, all Pit Bull’s shall wear a full cage muzzle at all times – NO EXCEPTIONS!
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PROBLEM PETS?
Book NOW for a Private, Confidential
Behaviour Consultation.
Does your pet exhibit any of the following unwanted behaviours?
õ Aggression towards people or pets.
õ Anxiety / neurosis.
õ Self-mutilation.
õ Fighting or incompatibilities.
õ Digging or destructive chewing.
õ Escaping or gate bolting.
õ Excessive barking or howling.
õ Inappropriate toilet habits.
õ Tail chasing, spinning or shadow chasing.
õ Hyper sexuality, leg/object mounting.
õ Disobedience, excitability, jumping up, etc.
õ Fears or phobias
THE BEHAVIOUR CONSULTATION (Advanced booking is essential):
õ On the day of the appointment, the pet & family members will be seen at the consulting rooms, or occasionally, under special circumstances, the pet will be seen in the owner’s home, or for owners in outlying areas telephonic or e-mail consultations may be arranged.
õ When seen at the Paws Abilities consulting rooms, on consultation, the pet will be placed in a secure area, where observations will be made, whilst a full background and history is taken, and all problems being experienced are fully discussed.
õ After an in-depth evaluation, an immediate prognosis is given, followed by a brief oral outline of what is needed for the family to achieve a successful resolution. This is backed up with a full written report, detailing the step by step instructions needed for a successful resolution.
õ The cost varies according to time/location, etc, and an average of two hours is needed.
õ The fee includes: the consultation, a detailed written report, and telephonic back-up.
õ A successful outcome depends largely on owner co-operation, compliance & consistency.
For Gentle Solutions – That Work!
For the “LOVE” of Dogs!
Louise Thompson – Accredited Animal Behaviour Consultant.
082-890-0905
Accredited Animal Behaviour Consultant & Professional Dog Trainer:
Accredited in 1995 with the Animal Behaviour Consultants of SA (©®™).
Certificate of Companion Animal Behaviour (Faculty of Veterinary Science,
Department of Ethology, University of Pretoria, 1996).
Certificate of Advanced Companion Animal Behaviour (Pretoria Technikon, 1997).
Member of the SA Association of Dog Obedience Instructors (SAADOI) & various similar overseas
organisations for animal trainers and animal behaviourists.
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Baby Paws
EXPECTING A NEW BABY?
Concerned about introductions and interactions between your “Best Friend” and your new baby? Prepare you dog for the arrival of your bundle of joy!
Private Consultations / Group Bookings / Antenatal classes etc.
Everyone wants their dog to be good with children. Unfortunately, as pack animals, acceptance of a new baby does not always come “naturally” to a dog, who can view this demanding noisy “newcomer” as a threat to his status and position in the human/animal pack! With all the excitement and fuss, surrounding the birth of a new baby, often the family dog is last on the list of perceived problems. Cases of young babies being mauled and even killed by a family pet are not unknown!
Dogs need to be gently prepared “behaviourally” (if possible up to three months in advance) for them to be able to cope with changes in routine, different focus of his owner’s attention and the many other aspects of the human animal relationship, to ensure long term, positive, human animal interactions.
PREPARE YOUR DOG FOR A SAFE HEALTHY INTRODUCTION AND
A POSITIVE LASTING RELATIONSHIP WITH YOUR NEW BABY.
All methods used are utilising positive reinforcement,
and the dog’s natural behaviour: No punishment, no force
CONTACT LOUISE THOMPSON
Accredited Animal Behaviour Consultant
Accredited with the Animal Behaviour Consultants of SA:
Certificate of Companion Animal Behaviour – University of Pretoria
Certificate of Advanced Companion Animal Behaviour – Pretoria Technikon
Member of the SA Association of Dog Obedience Instructors (SAADOI)
Mobile 082-890-0905
louthomp@mweb.co.za www.animal-behaviour.org.za
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“Puppy Paws”
EARLY PUPPY EDUCATION GROUP! Pups may be admitted from about 7 weeks of age and remain in this group until about 5 ½ months of age. Proof of inoculation is compulsory! Puppy school is a time and place where puppies and owners are educated. The aim is to produce a well-adjusted, socially acceptable, adult companion animal. All exercises are taught as fun games and learning methods are reward-based, using the concept of positive reinforcement!
What we cover in class:
Ø The principles of positive reinforcement learning.
Ø Natural bite inhibition & passive, non-confrontational human leadership skills.
Ø Leash skills – how to get your pup to walk on a loose leash.
Ø Confidence-building exercises to produce a well-adjusted pup.
Ø Inter-canine social skills.
Ø Teaching your pup to reliably “come” when she is called.
Ø Handling and examination skills.
Ø Basic canine communication and behaviour.
Ø Puppy stages of behavioural development.
Ø Basic obedience exercises (sit, down, stand, recall, fetch, leave, wait, etc.).
Ø Teaching your pup to concentrate.
Ø Teaching the pup not to run away with your valuable possessions.
Ø Basic puppy behaviour problem solving.
Ø Basic puppy and dog care.
Ø An accompanying in-depth homework book is provided for all new students.
Classes are held each Saturday morning at 8:00. Handlers are expected to be prompt and to be at the grounds 10 minutes before class. They are also expected to clean up after their pups, i.e. to “scoop the poop”. Do not feed your pup prior to class, as food is used as a motivator/training tool. Pups with a full tummy tend to sleep through the entire class – not conducive to learning!
WHAT TO BRING TO CLASS (Please wear old clothes!)
õ A hungry pup restrained on a light, flat collar (or harness) and soft leash.
õ Soft yummy dog treats.
õ A shallow water dish.
õ Dog brush and vitamin tablets – for pill-taking & grooming practice.
õ Toys for playtime.
õ A large sense of humour, and a willingness to learn new things.
Held under the direct supervision of our accredited animal behaviourist, Louise Thompson, and our experienced, understanding instructors. All exercises are performed individually and gentle methods are found to suit each individual puppy and handler.
We “LOVE” Puppies!
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Paws Abilities School Timetable
Should you be experiencing any problems with your pet, a behaviour evaluation may be required, prior to integration into a training class. Please contact Louise for more information.
8:00 AM
Early Puppy Education Class
This class includes “Puppy One (from approximately 7 weeks of age or one week after the pups first inoculation) & Puppy Two” (from approximately 4 – 5 ½ months) levels, of early canine learning and education for pups and owners. Owners are taught leadership skills – without bully tactics!
10:00 AM
Puppy Three Class
This is the next level of progressive “building-block” approach training a follow on from the Puppy One and Two class, and is from about 5 – 6 months of age.
10:00 AM
An introduction to Clicker Training
This group is a specialised training methodology class, using the clicker as a positive reinforcement “marker” to mark wanted or desired behaviours (operant conditioning).
12:30PM
Introduction to Dog Training
This group is for dogs and new owners who have not had the advantage of attending the early puppy education group. For dogs and owners who have not trained before.
12:30 PM
Good Companion / Social One
Handlers with problem dogs or dogs with social difficulties
12:30 PM
Good Companion / Social Two
The Next Level From Intro to Dog Training
Providing non-competitive owners dogs with life skills.
12:30 PM
Obedience – Elementary Beginners / Beginners
Readiness for obedience competitions – However, all exercises are taught as light, fun games – no pressure!
2:15
Social Class – Advanced Level
For non-competitive handlers – fun obedience / games and a bit of all disciplines with your dog (a reasonable level of off leash obedience is necessary).
2:15
Advanced Formal Obedience Class (Show Standard)
For serious minded handlers and dogs – readiness for show standard. Novice to C Test Class. However, this group emphasises training as being fun for the dogs and their handlers – never a repetitive chore!
2:15
Advanced Dog Sports Class
Fun mental exercise, games and various dogs sports (rally-obedience, ball pond scent, target recalls, fly-ball, various retrieve games (water retrieves/food retrieves) cross country, various concentration and mind stimulation games, tricks and other fun games). For dogs that are reliable off leash and have a reasonable level of obedience and social skills (most exercises are conducted off leash).
3:30
Contact Agility
The safest form of Agility. Dogs are taught control, self discipline and concentration. With the emphasis being on safety first! A full agility / obstacle course is available
From Beginners to Advanced
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Personal Paws
Specialised, private, individual (personalised) tuition is available BOOKING IS ESSENTIAL! This service is offered for handlers who can not attend weekend classes and/or have dogs with social issues. The eventual aim is integration into a general group class.
Our team of specialised dog training instructors are a dedicated group of highly experienced individuals, and have experience in the following areas: Many years practical experience in their field. Competitive achievements within the Kennel Union / Federation organisation, in one or more disciplines. Regular attendance of training seminars/workshops. Dog “Breed” knowledge. A sound scientific knowledge of basic canine behaviour. Knowledge of the critical stages of early canine development. Knowledge of many different, gentle, non-confrontational, positive reinforcement, training methods. People skills, the desire to learn, an open mind, and a sense of humour!
“Personal Paws”
Private, Personalised, Dog Training Lessons.
If you are looking for training that’s tailor made to suit you and your dogs individual needs - THIS IS FOR YOU!
1/ Personal Training is “one on one”. Learning is based on the handler & his/her dog’s individual needs and capabilities. No more having to keep up with the rest of the class! nor are you ever held back. The time is spent ONLY on you and your dog as a team!
2/ Handlers are able to request training aimed at any specific problems you are currently experiencing.
3/ Whether you have never trained before, or are currently NOT getting results and becoming frustrated – this is the method for you!
4/ Ideal for handlers you are unable to attend weekend training. (Most training schools only are in operation on weekends)
5/ The handler/dog’s age does not matter, its never to late to learn!
6/ Personal Paws offers - Clicker training, Agility, Obedience Training (Domestic & Show), Trick Training, Fun Games, Dog Sports, and General Good Manners.
7/ The training grounds are situated in a safe and secure area in the Benoni area. There is plenty of shade, and there are toilet facilities available
8/ Personal Paws has a gentle, experienced instructor and is run under the same guidelines and ethics as Paws Abilities Behaviour & Learning Centre. No harsh methods are employed. No choke chains. No yelling. Only positive reinforcement methods of learning are employed.
BOOKING IS ESSENTIAL
CONTACT:-
Louise Thompson @ 082-890-0905
Or - Mandy Pigott @ 082 495 2050
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“GENTLE PAWS”
A NEW CONCEPT IN DOG GROOMING!
A Special Grooming Experience!
õ PLAYTIME: Treat your dog to an outing in the country! Grooming Becomes a treat – NOT A PUNISHMENT! All dogs are taken for a fun walk, and given the opportunity to run and play in our safe, escape proof, dog friendly, dog park, prior to grooming. This provides them with a good association with the grooming experience!
õ ExclusiVE, INDIVIDUAL ATTENTION!: During the week, only one family’s dogs are groomed at once and only one family’s dogs are on the premises at one time!
õ TRUST: No assistants/helpers! No stress! The owner undertakes all grooming, washing etc herself! Unhurried, gentle, dog grooming! For example: - If your dog has a hair dryer issue – no problem – no rush, he will be hand dried! We will adapt to suit the dog – on his terms – with his safety and comfort coming first!
õ COMFORT: No cages – dogs have a paved, shade play area in which to play and dry. All dogs are washed in warm water – All year round!
õ COMPETITIVE PRICES: No hidden costs. For badly matted or un-kept dogs, - just call for a price. No surprises!
õ DIFFICULT DOGS: If you have a dog with GROOMING ISSUES – WE CAN HELP! Gentle, gradual accustomisation programmes undertaken for dogs with grooming issues.
õ PREVENTION & TREATMENT: Early puppy accustomisation programme. Get your puppy used to grooming from an early age.
GENTLE PAWS – YOUR DOG IN SAFE HANDS! NOW OPEN SATURDAY’S – BOOKING is ESSENTIAL!
Contact: Emma Thompson @ 082-923-9317
Electronic address. louthomp@mweb.co.za
WELCOME YOU TO THE WONDERFUL WORLD OF DOGDOM!
Thank you for showing an interest in the services we offer at Paws Abilities Behaviour and Learning Centre. You and your dog are about to begin an exciting journey, where you will both grow and develop, and have an opportunity to reach your full potential through mutual co-operation and respect! Please note that proof of inoculation is required upon joining. This is for your dog’s protection and to ensure the safety of all the dogs in the school.
WE PROVIDE: A safe rural environment; Club house & shade areas; Toilet facilities; Fully fenced exercise and socialising areas. Regular fun events and socials; A regular informative electronic newsletter; Dog shows/fun days/charity events. We have on sale: Gentle, non-confrontational, passive, dog training equipment; Toys; Treats; Chews; Behaviour and Training books and booklets; Refreshments, etc.
PLEASE NOTE:
We do not run our school like a military boot camp! Specially developed, fun exercises, make learning fun, for both owner and dog. Only positive reinforcement / reward methods are used. No CORRECTIVE training methods are allowed. No choke chains, no yelling, no punishment, and no jerking leashes - EVER!
INDEX OF CONTENTS – PAGE ONE TO EIGHT:
Page: Subject:
1. Welcome
2. Paws Abilities Dog Training School - School Rules
3. Problem Pets?, Private, confidential, behaviour consultations for problem pets.
4. Prepare your existing dog for the arrival of a new (human) baby - addition to the family!
5. Early puppy education – for pups from 8 weeks of age (proof of inoculation required)
6. Saturday Training Classes - Timetable and info
7. Personal Paws – Specialised, personal, private training (Not available Saturdays).
Training "tailor made" for your individual needs and requirements. Booking essential.
8. Gentle Paws Grooming Parlour – Your Dog in Safe Hands: The “open plan” grooming parlour with a difference! Owner undertakes all grooming personally – no helpers!
Special, gradual accustomisation programmes developed for difficult dogs – no force.
Stress free grooming! Now taking Saturday bookings!
TRAINING FEES / PAYMENT
All new students are required to pay two-months training fees in advance (R180 per month) and a once off “joining” fee of R100.00 per family. The joining fee includes an in-depth homework manual, monthly electronic newsletter, access to regular workshops, social events and much more! Thereafter fees are payable monthly in advance. Agility Training for existing students/members is R50-00 per month, (payable monthly in advance) which is used for maintenance and/or the purchase of new equipment. Students enrolling just for the agility class will be charged the same as any other new student. The cost of behavioural consultations is available on enquiry, and varies according to time/location, etc. An average of two hours is needed in order to observe the dog an obtain an adequate history.
We are very much aware of the costs charged by other schools/clubs, and can categorically state, that we still offer the most diverse training available, and generally provide the best facilities (which we continually strive to improve). In saying that, I would like to take this opportunity to thank each of our students and clients for their loyal support.
Please do not hesitate to contact me should you have any further questions or queries.
082-890-0905 louthomp@mweb.co.za
Kind Regards
Louise
PAWS ABILITIES SCHOOL RULES
õ PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE RESPECT OUR GROUNDS AND EQUIPMENT – We have all worked sooooo hard to get and maintain our school and grounds. If your dog digs ANYWHERE PLEASE fill in the hole!! If your dog destroys something – fix it or replace it! We have wonderful facilities LETS ALL LOOK AFTER THEM!
õ If you use any of our training equipment, please pack it away after you have finished with it. In addition PLEASE DON’T LET YOUR MALE DOGS URINATE ON OUR AGILITY EQUIPMENT OR ON OUR NICE NEW CLUB HOUSE VERHANDA!!!
õ SCOOP THE POOP: Handlers must clean up after their dogs toilet!!! Packets are provided, as are bins for the disposal of waste. DON’T LET YOUR DOGS TOILET IN TRAINING AREAS – the scent is extremely distracting when the other dogs are working. This is also to encourage future good ring craft and good dog owner manners. OWNERS WHO DON’T TO “SCOOP THE POOP”
WILL BE FINED!!!
õ PUNCUALITY: Handlers should arrive at the grounds at least 15 minutes prior to class. This is so that the dog can be taken for a slow stroll, can have a good sniff, can be provided with toilet opportunities (a full bowel is not conducive to learning), and a chance to settle down. Handlers arriving late will not be permitted to join a class until this has been done.
õ DON’T DISRUPT YOUR CLASS: – If you arrive LATE (and the class is busy with an exercise) don’t barge into the group, and disrupt the entire class! Be considerate of others and please show respect for the dogs who are working and trying to concentrate. Wait quietly in the background, until the particular exercise is completed.
õ RESPECT OTHER DOGS PERSONAL SPACE – PLEASE Don’t crowd, or encroach on another dogs space – especially a dog/s you don’t know. REMEMBER THAT NOT ALL DOGS ARE SOCIALABLE AND FRIENDLY!!!
õ SOCIALISING: Dogs are not permitted to socialise during class without instructor permission. Handlers are, however, encouraged to stay after training in order to permit their dogs to socialise (if the dogs are compatible). Dogs must learn the difference between work and play. During class, the only play that should be permitted is play learning or structured play - between handler and dog. This assists the learning process. It helps to make the handler more “valuable” and, in that matter, makes the dog more eager to please her.
õ HOMEWORK: As all learning is achieved through the “building-block” approach, all handlers should prepare themselves and their dogs for the following week’s lesson by putting into practice what they have learnt in class at home. This does not have to be formal homework. It is quite sufficient for a handler to perform three to five minutes’ homework a day as part of their daily routine. There is no excuse for not being able to perform a couple of minutes’ homework a day!
õ METHODOLOGY: All training methods must utilise positive reinforcement. No harsh treatment of dogs will be permitted. In addition, all training equipment must be approved by instructors. Equipment that could be considered inhumane or painful may not be used. No choke chains, pinch collars, or electric collars are permitted. With “difficult” dogs, alternative non-confrontational methods will be found. The problem could also be solved through a private behaviour consultation or private individual lessons, until such a time that the handler possesses a level of control where the dog will not disrupt a class or pose a danger to other dogs/handlers or to the public.
õ CONTROL: During training class, all dogs are to be kept on leash, unless told otherwise by an instructor.
õ NO BITCHES IN SEASON are permitted onto the grounds.
õ When on the grounds, all Pit Bull’s shall wear a full cage muzzle at all times – NO EXCEPTIONS!
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PROBLEM PETS?
Book NOW for a Private, Confidential
Behaviour Consultation.
Does your pet exhibit any of the following unwanted behaviours?
õ Aggression towards people or pets.
õ Anxiety / neurosis.
õ Self-mutilation.
õ Fighting or incompatibilities.
õ Digging or destructive chewing.
õ Escaping or gate bolting.
õ Excessive barking or howling.
õ Inappropriate toilet habits.
õ Tail chasing, spinning or shadow chasing.
õ Hyper sexuality, leg/object mounting.
õ Disobedience, excitability, jumping up, etc.
õ Fears or phobias
THE BEHAVIOUR CONSULTATION (Advanced booking is essential):
õ On the day of the appointment, the pet & family members will be seen at the consulting rooms, or occasionally, under special circumstances, the pet will be seen in the owner’s home, or for owners in outlying areas telephonic or e-mail consultations may be arranged.
õ When seen at the Paws Abilities consulting rooms, on consultation, the pet will be placed in a secure area, where observations will be made, whilst a full background and history is taken, and all problems being experienced are fully discussed.
õ After an in-depth evaluation, an immediate prognosis is given, followed by a brief oral outline of what is needed for the family to achieve a successful resolution. This is backed up with a full written report, detailing the step by step instructions needed for a successful resolution.
õ The cost varies according to time/location, etc, and an average of two hours is needed.
õ The fee includes: the consultation, a detailed written report, and telephonic back-up.
õ A successful outcome depends largely on owner co-operation, compliance & consistency.
For Gentle Solutions – That Work!
For the “LOVE” of Dogs!
Louise Thompson – Accredited Animal Behaviour Consultant.
082-890-0905
Accredited Animal Behaviour Consultant & Professional Dog Trainer:
Accredited in 1995 with the Animal Behaviour Consultants of SA (©®™).
Certificate of Companion Animal Behaviour (Faculty of Veterinary Science,
Department of Ethology, University of Pretoria, 1996).
Certificate of Advanced Companion Animal Behaviour (Pretoria Technikon, 1997).
Member of the SA Association of Dog Obedience Instructors (SAADOI) & various similar overseas
organisations for animal trainers and animal behaviourists.
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Baby Paws
EXPECTING A NEW BABY?
Concerned about introductions and interactions between your “Best Friend” and your new baby? Prepare you dog for the arrival of your bundle of joy!
Private Consultations / Group Bookings / Antenatal classes etc.
Everyone wants their dog to be good with children. Unfortunately, as pack animals, acceptance of a new baby does not always come “naturally” to a dog, who can view this demanding noisy “newcomer” as a threat to his status and position in the human/animal pack! With all the excitement and fuss, surrounding the birth of a new baby, often the family dog is last on the list of perceived problems. Cases of young babies being mauled and even killed by a family pet are not unknown!
Dogs need to be gently prepared “behaviourally” (if possible up to three months in advance) for them to be able to cope with changes in routine, different focus of his owner’s attention and the many other aspects of the human animal relationship, to ensure long term, positive, human animal interactions.
PREPARE YOUR DOG FOR A SAFE HEALTHY INTRODUCTION AND
A POSITIVE LASTING RELATIONSHIP WITH YOUR NEW BABY.
All methods used are utilising positive reinforcement,
and the dog’s natural behaviour: No punishment, no force
CONTACT LOUISE THOMPSON
Accredited Animal Behaviour Consultant
Accredited with the Animal Behaviour Consultants of SA:
Certificate of Companion Animal Behaviour – University of Pretoria
Certificate of Advanced Companion Animal Behaviour – Pretoria Technikon
Member of the SA Association of Dog Obedience Instructors (SAADOI)
Mobile 082-890-0905
louthomp@mweb.co.za www.animal-behaviour.org.za
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“Puppy Paws”
EARLY PUPPY EDUCATION GROUP! Pups may be admitted from about 7 weeks of age and remain in this group until about 5 ½ months of age. Proof of inoculation is compulsory! Puppy school is a time and place where puppies and owners are educated. The aim is to produce a well-adjusted, socially acceptable, adult companion animal. All exercises are taught as fun games and learning methods are reward-based, using the concept of positive reinforcement!
What we cover in class:
Ø The principles of positive reinforcement learning.
Ø Natural bite inhibition & passive, non-confrontational human leadership skills.
Ø Leash skills – how to get your pup to walk on a loose leash.
Ø Confidence-building exercises to produce a well-adjusted pup.
Ø Inter-canine social skills.
Ø Teaching your pup to reliably “come” when she is called.
Ø Handling and examination skills.
Ø Basic canine communication and behaviour.
Ø Puppy stages of behavioural development.
Ø Basic obedience exercises (sit, down, stand, recall, fetch, leave, wait, etc.).
Ø Teaching your pup to concentrate.
Ø Teaching the pup not to run away with your valuable possessions.
Ø Basic puppy behaviour problem solving.
Ø Basic puppy and dog care.
Ø An accompanying in-depth homework book is provided for all new students.
Classes are held each Saturday morning at 8:00. Handlers are expected to be prompt and to be at the grounds 10 minutes before class. They are also expected to clean up after their pups, i.e. to “scoop the poop”. Do not feed your pup prior to class, as food is used as a motivator/training tool. Pups with a full tummy tend to sleep through the entire class – not conducive to learning!
WHAT TO BRING TO CLASS (Please wear old clothes!)
õ A hungry pup restrained on a light, flat collar (or harness) and soft leash.
õ Soft yummy dog treats.
õ A shallow water dish.
õ Dog brush and vitamin tablets – for pill-taking & grooming practice.
õ Toys for playtime.
õ A large sense of humour, and a willingness to learn new things.
Held under the direct supervision of our accredited animal behaviourist, Louise Thompson, and our experienced, understanding instructors. All exercises are performed individually and gentle methods are found to suit each individual puppy and handler.
We “LOVE” Puppies!
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Paws Abilities School Timetable
Should you be experiencing any problems with your pet, a behaviour evaluation may be required, prior to integration into a training class. Please contact Louise for more information.
8:00 AM
Early Puppy Education Class
This class includes “Puppy One (from approximately 7 weeks of age or one week after the pups first inoculation) & Puppy Two” (from approximately 4 – 5 ½ months) levels, of early canine learning and education for pups and owners. Owners are taught leadership skills – without bully tactics!
10:00 AM
Puppy Three Class
This is the next level of progressive “building-block” approach training a follow on from the Puppy One and Two class, and is from about 5 – 6 months of age.
10:00 AM
An introduction to Clicker Training
This group is a specialised training methodology class, using the clicker as a positive reinforcement “marker” to mark wanted or desired behaviours (operant conditioning).
12:30PM
Introduction to Dog Training
This group is for dogs and new owners who have not had the advantage of attending the early puppy education group. For dogs and owners who have not trained before.
12:30 PM
Good Companion / Social One
Handlers with problem dogs or dogs with social difficulties
12:30 PM
Good Companion / Social Two
The Next Level From Intro to Dog Training
Providing non-competitive owners dogs with life skills.
12:30 PM
Obedience – Elementary Beginners / Beginners
Readiness for obedience competitions – However, all exercises are taught as light, fun games – no pressure!
2:15
Social Class – Advanced Level
For non-competitive handlers – fun obedience / games and a bit of all disciplines with your dog (a reasonable level of off leash obedience is necessary).
2:15
Advanced Formal Obedience Class (Show Standard)
For serious minded handlers and dogs – readiness for show standard. Novice to C Test Class. However, this group emphasises training as being fun for the dogs and their handlers – never a repetitive chore!
2:15
Advanced Dog Sports Class
Fun mental exercise, games and various dogs sports (rally-obedience, ball pond scent, target recalls, fly-ball, various retrieve games (water retrieves/food retrieves) cross country, various concentration and mind stimulation games, tricks and other fun games). For dogs that are reliable off leash and have a reasonable level of obedience and social skills (most exercises are conducted off leash).
3:30
Contact Agility
The safest form of Agility. Dogs are taught control, self discipline and concentration. With the emphasis being on safety first! A full agility / obstacle course is available
From Beginners to Advanced
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Personal Paws
Specialised, private, individual (personalised) tuition is available BOOKING IS ESSENTIAL! This service is offered for handlers who can not attend weekend classes and/or have dogs with social issues. The eventual aim is integration into a general group class.
Our team of specialised dog training instructors are a dedicated group of highly experienced individuals, and have experience in the following areas: Many years practical experience in their field. Competitive achievements within the Kennel Union / Federation organisation, in one or more disciplines. Regular attendance of training seminars/workshops. Dog “Breed” knowledge. A sound scientific knowledge of basic canine behaviour. Knowledge of the critical stages of early canine development. Knowledge of many different, gentle, non-confrontational, positive reinforcement, training methods. People skills, the desire to learn, an open mind, and a sense of humour!
“Personal Paws”
Private, Personalised, Dog Training Lessons.
If you are looking for training that’s tailor made to suit you and your dogs individual needs - THIS IS FOR YOU!
1/ Personal Training is “one on one”. Learning is based on the handler & his/her dog’s individual needs and capabilities. No more having to keep up with the rest of the class! nor are you ever held back. The time is spent ONLY on you and your dog as a team!
2/ Handlers are able to request training aimed at any specific problems you are currently experiencing.
3/ Whether you have never trained before, or are currently NOT getting results and becoming frustrated – this is the method for you!
4/ Ideal for handlers you are unable to attend weekend training. (Most training schools only are in operation on weekends)
5/ The handler/dog’s age does not matter, its never to late to learn!
6/ Personal Paws offers - Clicker training, Agility, Obedience Training (Domestic & Show), Trick Training, Fun Games, Dog Sports, and General Good Manners.
7/ The training grounds are situated in a safe and secure area in the Benoni area. There is plenty of shade, and there are toilet facilities available
8/ Personal Paws has a gentle, experienced instructor and is run under the same guidelines and ethics as Paws Abilities Behaviour & Learning Centre. No harsh methods are employed. No choke chains. No yelling. Only positive reinforcement methods of learning are employed.
BOOKING IS ESSENTIAL
CONTACT:-
Louise Thompson @ 082-890-0905
Or - Mandy Pigott @ 082 495 2050
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
“GENTLE PAWS”
A NEW CONCEPT IN DOG GROOMING!
A Special Grooming Experience!
õ PLAYTIME: Treat your dog to an outing in the country! Grooming Becomes a treat – NOT A PUNISHMENT! All dogs are taken for a fun walk, and given the opportunity to run and play in our safe, escape proof, dog friendly, dog park, prior to grooming. This provides them with a good association with the grooming experience!
õ ExclusiVE, INDIVIDUAL ATTENTION!: During the week, only one family’s dogs are groomed at once and only one family’s dogs are on the premises at one time!
õ TRUST: No assistants/helpers! No stress! The owner undertakes all grooming, washing etc herself! Unhurried, gentle, dog grooming! For example: - If your dog has a hair dryer issue – no problem – no rush, he will be hand dried! We will adapt to suit the dog – on his terms – with his safety and comfort coming first!
õ COMFORT: No cages – dogs have a paved, shade play area in which to play and dry. All dogs are washed in warm water – All year round!
õ COMPETITIVE PRICES: No hidden costs. For badly matted or un-kept dogs, - just call for a price. No surprises!
õ DIFFICULT DOGS: If you have a dog with GROOMING ISSUES – WE CAN HELP! Gentle, gradual accustomisation programmes undertaken for dogs with grooming issues.
õ PREVENTION & TREATMENT: Early puppy accustomisation programme. Get your puppy used to grooming from an early age.
GENTLE PAWS – YOUR DOG IN SAFE HANDS! NOW OPEN SATURDAY’S – BOOKING is ESSENTIAL!
Contact: Emma Thompson @ 082-923-9317
Electronic address. louthomp@mweb.co.za
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