In the resonably near future we are going to have a new home - a full, interactive, more user friendly web site!
Watch this space for more details!
Cheers for now
Lou
Thursday, March 17, 2011
Monday, March 14, 2011
What to do if a dog attacks you.
What should I do if a dog attacks me?
By David Ryn
The dog is almost certainly attacking you because it considers you to be a threat in some way. There are two main priorities to ensure your own safety: firstly to physically protect yourself and secondly to reduce the threat to the dog so they stop the attack. Using strategies that combine these two priorities will afford you most protection.
Stop moving towards the dog
If you are at home, stand still (see above FAQs). If you are out walking, jogging or cycling and a dog approaches you, you have probably inadvertently entered what it considers to be its territory. If it runs towards you but is not barking or growling, it may just be checking you out and after a quick sniff to determine you are no threat may leave you alone. Stand still and let it sniff. Do not try to touch it, or make sudden movements, but speak reassuringly. Keep standing still and it will lose interest and leave. If it is barking or growling, it considers you a threat that must be dealt with and will be unlikely to leave.
Stay calm.
Indoors, or if you are walking or jogging, stand still and face the dog, slightly angling your body away from them. Keep your body relaxed and on your back foot. You want to give the impression you are leaving calmly. Do not try to shoo away, hit or kick the dog as you will be increasing the threat, and will increase the possibility of a full attack. Talk to the dog calmly in a pleasant tone of voice. Tell it you mean it no harm and that you are leaving. If you are cycling, dismount and place the bike between you and the dog. This allows you to slowly wheel it far enough away to remount. Do not try to outpace the dog as this may encourage it to chase you.
Get something as solid as possible between you and the dog.
Indoors this may be furniture, a chair, coffee table or even a cushion. If you are delivering something to the house it may be the parcel, a bag or your coat. If you are in the street or park it may be a bench, a lamppost or litter bin. If cycling, use your bicycle as above.
Watch the dog.
But do not stare into its face. Turn your head slightly to one side and downwards. Watch it very carefully out of the corner of your eye.
You may need to move, either behind something or to get away from the dog.
If the dog does not press home its attack, walk slowly backwards or sideways. Do not let the dog get round behind you; keep moving gently so that you continue to present a half side/front view of your body. Do not make sudden movements or run, just walk slowly away from the dog. It is not likely to pursue you very far. Keep walking and talking up to the point at which the dog loses interest in you. Try to place more solid objects between you if you can, for example move from table to sofa, or from lamppost to litterbin. If you must get past the dog, try to circle round, keeping at least the original distance between you.
If the dog does press home the attack.
Try to hold something between you and it, such as your briefcase, bag or coat. Fend off rather than try to fight back. Very few dogs press home a serious attack and after a snap-bite they will be content that you are leaving. Do not scream or yell. If you know there are people within hearing distance, calmly and as quietly as possible call to them for help. Stay on your feet and do not corner yourself. Continue to walk slowly away, backwards or sideways, looking down and sideways, talking reassuringly, fending off if necessary and aiming to place solid objects between you as you leave.
By David Ryn
The dog is almost certainly attacking you because it considers you to be a threat in some way. There are two main priorities to ensure your own safety: firstly to physically protect yourself and secondly to reduce the threat to the dog so they stop the attack. Using strategies that combine these two priorities will afford you most protection.
Stop moving towards the dog
If you are at home, stand still (see above FAQs). If you are out walking, jogging or cycling and a dog approaches you, you have probably inadvertently entered what it considers to be its territory. If it runs towards you but is not barking or growling, it may just be checking you out and after a quick sniff to determine you are no threat may leave you alone. Stand still and let it sniff. Do not try to touch it, or make sudden movements, but speak reassuringly. Keep standing still and it will lose interest and leave. If it is barking or growling, it considers you a threat that must be dealt with and will be unlikely to leave.
Stay calm.
Indoors, or if you are walking or jogging, stand still and face the dog, slightly angling your body away from them. Keep your body relaxed and on your back foot. You want to give the impression you are leaving calmly. Do not try to shoo away, hit or kick the dog as you will be increasing the threat, and will increase the possibility of a full attack. Talk to the dog calmly in a pleasant tone of voice. Tell it you mean it no harm and that you are leaving. If you are cycling, dismount and place the bike between you and the dog. This allows you to slowly wheel it far enough away to remount. Do not try to outpace the dog as this may encourage it to chase you.
Get something as solid as possible between you and the dog.
Indoors this may be furniture, a chair, coffee table or even a cushion. If you are delivering something to the house it may be the parcel, a bag or your coat. If you are in the street or park it may be a bench, a lamppost or litter bin. If cycling, use your bicycle as above.
Watch the dog.
But do not stare into its face. Turn your head slightly to one side and downwards. Watch it very carefully out of the corner of your eye.
You may need to move, either behind something or to get away from the dog.
If the dog does not press home its attack, walk slowly backwards or sideways. Do not let the dog get round behind you; keep moving gently so that you continue to present a half side/front view of your body. Do not make sudden movements or run, just walk slowly away from the dog. It is not likely to pursue you very far. Keep walking and talking up to the point at which the dog loses interest in you. Try to place more solid objects between you if you can, for example move from table to sofa, or from lamppost to litterbin. If you must get past the dog, try to circle round, keeping at least the original distance between you.
If the dog does press home the attack.
Try to hold something between you and it, such as your briefcase, bag or coat. Fend off rather than try to fight back. Very few dogs press home a serious attack and after a snap-bite they will be content that you are leaving. Do not scream or yell. If you know there are people within hearing distance, calmly and as quietly as possible call to them for help. Stay on your feet and do not corner yourself. Continue to walk slowly away, backwards or sideways, looking down and sideways, talking reassuringly, fending off if necessary and aiming to place solid objects between you as you leave.
Friday, March 11, 2011
Dog Obedience Training - an Overview!
DOG OBEDIENCE TRAINING – AN OVERVIEW:
Dog Training can be Divided into Three Categories.
1. Restrictive routines
2. Active routines
3. Combination routines
• The “Sit Stay”, “Down Stay”, & “Stand for Examination” are wholly “Restrictive routines.
• Dog jumping and retrieving are “Active Routines.”
• Exercises such as “Heelwork” and “Recalls” are considered “Combination routines.”
One of the problems with dog training is that in the beginning the usual sequences of exercises learnt in training are normally “restrictive routines”. As the first year of a dog’s life is the most physically active period of his life, it has two distinct disadvantages!
1. It fails to take into account, and fails to capitalise on the young dogs natural tendencies. The young dogs natural tendencies are to be active and playful. Young dogs also have very short attention spans and need constant direction of their attention.
2. It also introduces exercises that the young dog finds boring and sometimes even unpleasant, which could hinder attempts to build a positive attitude towards working with his handler.
The positive association of “play”, can form the beginning of a strong human canine bond, thus develops the positive attitude so desirable in future training. This could be called the “desire to learn” or the “will to please” without which, no learning can take place!
To too many people,
“Training” means punishment, yelling and being forceful.
It has been proved beyond a shadow of doubt, that positive reinforcement, and reward based learning methods, are far more successful than any negative methods of training!
Play and fun in training – especially in the early impressionable age is often totally neglected! By beginning with play exercises, the handler learns to relax, be happy and encourage his young dog/puppy, thus developing a positive attitude, which is so necessary when training any species of animal.
As the young pup matures and develops – the reward of play (combined with any other motivations necessary i.e. treats, toys, ball etc) becomes a wonderful habit. Learning and working is such fun the dog actively looks forward to his training sessions.
Dog Training can be Divided into Three Categories.
1. Restrictive routines
2. Active routines
3. Combination routines
• The “Sit Stay”, “Down Stay”, & “Stand for Examination” are wholly “Restrictive routines.
• Dog jumping and retrieving are “Active Routines.”
• Exercises such as “Heelwork” and “Recalls” are considered “Combination routines.”
One of the problems with dog training is that in the beginning the usual sequences of exercises learnt in training are normally “restrictive routines”. As the first year of a dog’s life is the most physically active period of his life, it has two distinct disadvantages!
1. It fails to take into account, and fails to capitalise on the young dogs natural tendencies. The young dogs natural tendencies are to be active and playful. Young dogs also have very short attention spans and need constant direction of their attention.
2. It also introduces exercises that the young dog finds boring and sometimes even unpleasant, which could hinder attempts to build a positive attitude towards working with his handler.
The positive association of “play”, can form the beginning of a strong human canine bond, thus develops the positive attitude so desirable in future training. This could be called the “desire to learn” or the “will to please” without which, no learning can take place!
To too many people,
“Training” means punishment, yelling and being forceful.
It has been proved beyond a shadow of doubt, that positive reinforcement, and reward based learning methods, are far more successful than any negative methods of training!
Play and fun in training – especially in the early impressionable age is often totally neglected! By beginning with play exercises, the handler learns to relax, be happy and encourage his young dog/puppy, thus developing a positive attitude, which is so necessary when training any species of animal.
As the young pup matures and develops – the reward of play (combined with any other motivations necessary i.e. treats, toys, ball etc) becomes a wonderful habit. Learning and working is such fun the dog actively looks forward to his training sessions.
Wednesday, March 9, 2011
Food for thought???
Found this article from a holistic vet on the net
Dr Jones author of "Veterinary Secrets".
Who Controls The Dog Food Industry?
Unfortunately primarily LARGE corporations.
Here are the BIG 5
1. Nestle is the LARGEST dog food manufacturer better known as the chocolate and candy maker Nestle owns Purina and controls over 30% of the dog food market. It just so happens that they are also a not well thought of corporate giant...they were encouraging mothers in 3rd world countries to feed formula and NOT breast feed for example.
2. Mars is the second largest, now owning, Nutro, Royal Canin, Pedigree, and even small Canadian Company Medi-Cal;they control approx 20% of the market. Mars is of course better known for making candy..
3. Then there is the MONSTROUS multinational company Proctor and Gamble- they own Iams, Eukanuba, and recently purchased Natura Pet Products making Innova, Evo, California Natural, Healthwise, Mother Nature and Karma.They now control over 15% of the market. P and G is of course better known for making ubiquitous consumer goods such as Pampers(R), Tide(R), Ariel(R), Always(R), Whisper(R), Pantene(R), Mach3(R), Bounty(R), Dawn(R), Gain(R), Pringles(R), Charmin(R), Downy(R), Lenor(R), Iams(R), Crest(R), Oral-B(R), Duracell(R), Olay(R), Head & Shoulders(R), Wella(R), Gillette(R), Braun(R) and Fusion(R)...
4. Colgate Palmolive - yes the makers of toothpaste and dish soap NOW own Hills Pet Products...think of Science Diet and their family of brands which has over 10% of the dog food market.
5. Del Monte- yes the company best known for Pineapples has nearly 10% of the Pet Food Market. They own Natures Recipe, Pounce, Meow Mix, Kibbles and Bits, 9 Lives, Jerky treats, and the well known dog treat Milk Bone..
----------------------------------------
So What's the problem?
----------------------------------------
Big companies are focused on profits, and increasing shareholder value first.
Let's use the Proctor and Gamble takeover of Iams Pet Foods as an example.
Iams and Eukanuba were very reputable brands of pet food over 10 years ago....then the company was sold to the BIG MULTINATIONAL P & G.
Shortly after this P & G. placed Iams/Eukanuba in the mass market of groceries stores, Wal Mart etc..
Dog owners started to notice changes..diarrhea, vomiting, hair loss, allergies- even though the company INSISTED there was no change in formulation.
P&G had a class action suit brought against them, and the lawsuit showed that they had reformulated the dog food ingredients substiting 'chicken by products meal' instead of real chicken, substituting bran sorghum/barley for rice, and then adjusting on its package instructions to reduce the per day servings by 25%"
The substitution of the lesser expensive ingredients and reducing the advised feeding amounts by 25% allowed them to be MORE profitable, but decreased the QUALITY of the food producing the health issues in the dogs.
Dr Jones author of "Veterinary Secrets".
Who Controls The Dog Food Industry?
Unfortunately primarily LARGE corporations.
Here are the BIG 5
1. Nestle is the LARGEST dog food manufacturer better known as the chocolate and candy maker Nestle owns Purina and controls over 30% of the dog food market. It just so happens that they are also a not well thought of corporate giant...they were encouraging mothers in 3rd world countries to feed formula and NOT breast feed for example.
2. Mars is the second largest, now owning, Nutro, Royal Canin, Pedigree, and even small Canadian Company Medi-Cal;they control approx 20% of the market. Mars is of course better known for making candy..
3. Then there is the MONSTROUS multinational company Proctor and Gamble- they own Iams, Eukanuba, and recently purchased Natura Pet Products making Innova, Evo, California Natural, Healthwise, Mother Nature and Karma.They now control over 15% of the market. P and G is of course better known for making ubiquitous consumer goods such as Pampers(R), Tide(R), Ariel(R), Always(R), Whisper(R), Pantene(R), Mach3(R), Bounty(R), Dawn(R), Gain(R), Pringles(R), Charmin(R), Downy(R), Lenor(R), Iams(R), Crest(R), Oral-B(R), Duracell(R), Olay(R), Head & Shoulders(R), Wella(R), Gillette(R), Braun(R) and Fusion(R)...
4. Colgate Palmolive - yes the makers of toothpaste and dish soap NOW own Hills Pet Products...think of Science Diet and their family of brands which has over 10% of the dog food market.
5. Del Monte- yes the company best known for Pineapples has nearly 10% of the Pet Food Market. They own Natures Recipe, Pounce, Meow Mix, Kibbles and Bits, 9 Lives, Jerky treats, and the well known dog treat Milk Bone..
----------------------------------------
So What's the problem?
----------------------------------------
Big companies are focused on profits, and increasing shareholder value first.
Let's use the Proctor and Gamble takeover of Iams Pet Foods as an example.
Iams and Eukanuba were very reputable brands of pet food over 10 years ago....then the company was sold to the BIG MULTINATIONAL P & G.
Shortly after this P & G. placed Iams/Eukanuba in the mass market of groceries stores, Wal Mart etc..
Dog owners started to notice changes..diarrhea, vomiting, hair loss, allergies- even though the company INSISTED there was no change in formulation.
P&G had a class action suit brought against them, and the lawsuit showed that they had reformulated the dog food ingredients substiting 'chicken by products meal' instead of real chicken, substituting bran sorghum/barley for rice, and then adjusting on its package instructions to reduce the per day servings by 25%"
The substitution of the lesser expensive ingredients and reducing the advised feeding amounts by 25% allowed them to be MORE profitable, but decreased the QUALITY of the food producing the health issues in the dogs.
Sunday, March 6, 2011
FREE PLAY - THE GOOD THE BAD AND THE UGLY!
This is a post by author Nancy Frensley, CPDT, CAP2, who is Manager of Behavior and Training at the Berkeley-East Bay Humane Society in Berkeley, California. She writes periodic posts about the behavioral challenges and joys of shelter dogs.
One of first things adopters from our shelter, Berkeley East Bay Humane Society, want to do is take their dogs to a dog park. It’s easy to assume that all dogs both want to play with other dogs and have the right temperament and social skills to do so. However, everyone will benefit by considering a few things before beginning this particular adventure.
Until puppies reach maturity, between the ages of eighteen months and two years, most of them enjoy playing with other dogs. Good dog play can teach young dogs valuable lessons. Play enhances bite inhibition, develops communication skills, and maintains friendly responses to other dogs. As they mature, most dogs become less universal in their desire to play.
Even though some parts of each puppy’s play style are inherited, each of them goes through distinct developmental periods during the first two years of life in which social and play styles are formed. Puppies (under four months) can be very rude but are generally tolerated by adult dogs as well as their human parents. Between the ages of about five and eighteen months, almost all puppies start to push their boundaries with both people and their own kind. In addition, puppies experience distinct “fear periods” during this time of their lives. Unsupervised play as well as harsh corrections can cause pups to develop fear as well as the inappropriate play styles of chasing, body slamming and persistent wrestling; styles that can lead to aggression problems.
Most dogs reach full maturity at about two years. After that, they are less likely to engage in play with dogs they don’t already know and may become more reserved with people as well. Most are content, at this point, to play with previously established dog friends. Sometimes, they lose their desire to play with dogs entirely. Dogs adopted as adults have often had limited social exposure and may never enjoy playing with other dogs.
From the very first day, you should carefully monitor all your dog’s playtimes. By supervising, you can shape your dog’s play style for the rest of his life. The most important part of supervision is being able to recognize when play is appropriate and when it is not. The second most important part is being able to interrupt questionable or inappropriate play and call your dog away before it goes bad.
There are three kinds of dog play—good, questionable, and totally inappropriate. Here’s how to tell them apart:
Good dog play. You don’t need to interrupt this play. The dogs are monitoring themselves.
•Play is balanced. There is a lot of give-and-take. Both dogs are clearly having fun.
•Dogs have loose, relaxed bodies, and their movements are silly and inefficient-looking.
•Chase games exhibit a sense of sharing. But, if one dog is being chased into hiding or is becoming defensive, interrupt the play.
•Both dogs are making friendly play gestures. These include play bows, turning and hitting with the hips and both dogs stopping when things get too rough.
Questionable dog play. You should always interrupt this play before it goes too far. Any of the following behaviors can lead to a fight.
• Wrestling can be appropriate but is questionable and should be interrupted if more than two dogs are involved, or if one dog is always on the bottom.
• Tug-of-war if one or both dogs become possessive.
• Stalking postures: These postures are not play behavior. A stalking posture is significantly different from play bow and is often the first stage of a body slam.
Rude and totally inappropriate dog play. This “play” is not play at all; it is aggressive behavior and must always be stopped. After you intervene you have a good opportunity to play one-on-one with your dog while he settles down. Rude behaviors are:
• Neck biting and collar grabbing.
•Excessive barking and harassing another dog. Rude puppies often do this relentlessly at adult dogs that do not want to play.
• Body slamming. This is only fun for the slammer.
• Pinning. Bull breeds do this routinely, but others do it, too.
• Mounting other dogs. Both males and females do this and it is almost guaranteed to start a fight.
• Snapping. A dog that is scared or aggravated may snap; so may a dog that is guarding a toy or a bone.
• Standing in a “T” position (head over another dog’s shoulders). This is never play; it is always a challenge. Don’t let it happen at all.
• Ganging up. Two or more dogs ganging up on one.
• General over arousal, resulting in a case of the crazies, growlies, or snappies.
If you cannot call your dog away quickly and effectively as soon as play becomes questionable use a long line (20’-30’) and practice calling your dog with rewards every day. Once you call your dog away from play, give him time to calm down before releasing him to play again. If your dog has gotten into a scuffle, stop all interactions with other dogs for the remainder of the outing.
It’s everyone’s responsibility to supervise their dogs to keep play friendly.
One of first things adopters from our shelter, Berkeley East Bay Humane Society, want to do is take their dogs to a dog park. It’s easy to assume that all dogs both want to play with other dogs and have the right temperament and social skills to do so. However, everyone will benefit by considering a few things before beginning this particular adventure.
Until puppies reach maturity, between the ages of eighteen months and two years, most of them enjoy playing with other dogs. Good dog play can teach young dogs valuable lessons. Play enhances bite inhibition, develops communication skills, and maintains friendly responses to other dogs. As they mature, most dogs become less universal in their desire to play.
Even though some parts of each puppy’s play style are inherited, each of them goes through distinct developmental periods during the first two years of life in which social and play styles are formed. Puppies (under four months) can be very rude but are generally tolerated by adult dogs as well as their human parents. Between the ages of about five and eighteen months, almost all puppies start to push their boundaries with both people and their own kind. In addition, puppies experience distinct “fear periods” during this time of their lives. Unsupervised play as well as harsh corrections can cause pups to develop fear as well as the inappropriate play styles of chasing, body slamming and persistent wrestling; styles that can lead to aggression problems.
Most dogs reach full maturity at about two years. After that, they are less likely to engage in play with dogs they don’t already know and may become more reserved with people as well. Most are content, at this point, to play with previously established dog friends. Sometimes, they lose their desire to play with dogs entirely. Dogs adopted as adults have often had limited social exposure and may never enjoy playing with other dogs.
From the very first day, you should carefully monitor all your dog’s playtimes. By supervising, you can shape your dog’s play style for the rest of his life. The most important part of supervision is being able to recognize when play is appropriate and when it is not. The second most important part is being able to interrupt questionable or inappropriate play and call your dog away before it goes bad.
There are three kinds of dog play—good, questionable, and totally inappropriate. Here’s how to tell them apart:
Good dog play. You don’t need to interrupt this play. The dogs are monitoring themselves.
•Play is balanced. There is a lot of give-and-take. Both dogs are clearly having fun.
•Dogs have loose, relaxed bodies, and their movements are silly and inefficient-looking.
•Chase games exhibit a sense of sharing. But, if one dog is being chased into hiding or is becoming defensive, interrupt the play.
•Both dogs are making friendly play gestures. These include play bows, turning and hitting with the hips and both dogs stopping when things get too rough.
Questionable dog play. You should always interrupt this play before it goes too far. Any of the following behaviors can lead to a fight.
• Wrestling can be appropriate but is questionable and should be interrupted if more than two dogs are involved, or if one dog is always on the bottom.
• Tug-of-war if one or both dogs become possessive.
• Stalking postures: These postures are not play behavior. A stalking posture is significantly different from play bow and is often the first stage of a body slam.
Rude and totally inappropriate dog play. This “play” is not play at all; it is aggressive behavior and must always be stopped. After you intervene you have a good opportunity to play one-on-one with your dog while he settles down. Rude behaviors are:
• Neck biting and collar grabbing.
•Excessive barking and harassing another dog. Rude puppies often do this relentlessly at adult dogs that do not want to play.
• Body slamming. This is only fun for the slammer.
• Pinning. Bull breeds do this routinely, but others do it, too.
• Mounting other dogs. Both males and females do this and it is almost guaranteed to start a fight.
• Snapping. A dog that is scared or aggravated may snap; so may a dog that is guarding a toy or a bone.
• Standing in a “T” position (head over another dog’s shoulders). This is never play; it is always a challenge. Don’t let it happen at all.
• Ganging up. Two or more dogs ganging up on one.
• General over arousal, resulting in a case of the crazies, growlies, or snappies.
If you cannot call your dog away quickly and effectively as soon as play becomes questionable use a long line (20’-30’) and practice calling your dog with rewards every day. Once you call your dog away from play, give him time to calm down before releasing him to play again. If your dog has gotten into a scuffle, stop all interactions with other dogs for the remainder of the outing.
It’s everyone’s responsibility to supervise their dogs to keep play friendly.
Thursday, March 3, 2011
ATTENTION SEEKING BEHAVIOUR
ATTENTION SEEKING BEHAVIOURS REVEALED:
By Louise Thompson Accredited Animal Behaviour Consultant. (ABC of SA ©®™)
From a dogs point of view, if a behaviour is successful, (which means that the dog is rewarded for exhibiting a particular behaviour), then he will repeat the behaviour.
Reward, to a dog, can be one of many things, including receiving attention from his owner or pack leader! Most dogs even perceive negative attention as rewarding. So in other words, shouting, smacking and nagging the dog is rewarding, as the dog is getting you to take notice of him = attention = reward!
Dogs that constantly demand attention from their owners have learnt that this behaviour is successful.
More often than not, the more attention they demand, the more attention the owners give – if only to sometimes just keep the peace! This tends to just perpetuate the problem which then usually tends to worsen!
Attention seeking behaviour can present in many forms such as:-
• Demanding to be stroked
• Nudging for a stroke
• Pawing
• Resting his head on your lap for a stroke
• Constantly demanding to be let in / out
• Demanding food / water
• Refusal to eat – especially in the hope of being hand fed / or provided with higher value food, in overindulged cases.
• Vocalisation / barking / howling / yapping (the reward is the owners yelling “shut up”) = owner attention
• Vocalisation when the owner is on the telephone.
• Toy control
• Demanding to play (with or without toys)
• Demanding to go for a walk (ritualised behaviours)
• Begging at the table
• Physical exhibition of neurosis – to receive a response or comfort (shivering etc)
• Jumping up and certain excitable behaviour
• Some destructive behaviours.
• Leash forging (pulling on the lead)
• Jumping up against you to be picked up or carried.
Dogs who exhibit “attention seeking” behaviours are often insecure and over-indulged. These dogs often are suffering from stress caused by a lack of leadership – thus the basic pack responsibilities are directly on their shoulders! (Shame poor dogs!)
If a human does not provide leadership, the dog will instinctively have to take over that role – that is a natural part of hierarchal pack behaviour.
Being a leader does not mean you have to be harsh or nasty to your dog, as a leader you should be calm and a bit more aloof, but most important of all, as a leader you are the protector and decision maker (never a bully!)
In this regard, dogs also often receive conflicting signals from their owners – thus adding to their confusion and indirectly encouraging the behaviour – if only to receive a response.
Attention seeking dogs often are low ranking individuals, given owner status that they have not earned – this also causes confusion and encourages negative behaviours and dissention in a pack.
The miscommunication is often caused by Anthromorphisismn (owner’s misguidedly attributing human feelings and emotions to animals) this causes insecure, unhappy, confused dogs.
WAYS TO REDUCE OR ELIMINATE ATTENTION SEEKING BEHAVIOUR:
• Ignore negative behaviour and only reward and react to “good” or positive behaviours. For many dogs, the only attention they ever seem to get is when they are misbehaving! Try to consciously make more fuss of your dog when he is being “good”. The reward for being good is then habituated as if you are ignoring “bad” behaviour – the dog will desire attention and learn to get it by displaying behaviour that gets him attention!
• Use the “doggie time out” principles – which include – If the dog wants to be included in YOUR pack he has to abide by your rules.
• Become a good leader and decision maker – do not let the dog make any decisions. This will make you more valuable, reduce much doggy stress, and make your dog feel more secure as it lifts much (decision making / high ranking) responsibilities off his shoulders.
• Ensure that you initiate any contact with the dog – for example, if your dog comes and demands to play - ignore him until he stops demanding. Wait a couple of minutes and then call him for a game. In this way you have taken control, been the decision maker and rewarded the dog be encouraging the “good” behaviour to be repeated (as when he was calm and quiet – you then called him for a game)
• Make sure you make all decisions not the dog. You need to decide when all the good things in life happen – not the dog. This will take a huge “load” off his shoulders as you bear the brunt of the leadership role! Also he should learn that you are the provider of all good things, such as a walk, food, meals, grooming, games etc. All which should be on your terms and at your invitation!
• He should also have to “earn” all the good things in life. A simple sit or compliance with any other simple command can precede a reward, or a valuable thing in his life. Nothing should be given for free!
• If the dog repeatedly jumps up against you for a stroke or to be picked up. As he starts his “routine” then without speaking or reacting, simply jump up, march out of the room, and slam the door in his face. Give it a minute or two and then return and repeat if necessary. The second the dog does not demand to be picked up, then call him to you and pick him up and give him attention. Reward only good behaviour. This principle can be followed through to reduce various attention seeking behaviours.
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DOGGY TIME OUT
By Louise Thompson Accredited Animal Behaviourist ABC of SA: (©®™)
Owning an excitable or demanding dog, or pup, can ruin your social life; make family functions and other social events a nightmare. People can even begin to look for excuses not to come around to see you! If a dog or pup has not learnt social manners – it is never too late to instil new rules and regulations in your household. It is a fallacy that you cannot teach an old dog, new tricks! Any habit can be changed if the owners are consistent and send the “right” messages!
The most important rule of all is for everyone to be CONSISTENT!
Through repetition, patience, and consistency, dogs and pups learn patterns of behaviour very quickly! Therefore, to alter their attitude, and response, is actually very easy - if you go about it the right way!
RULES AND TIPS FOR EXCITABLE AND DIFFICULT DOGS :
Never punish your dog (either verbally or physically) for excited behaviour as you will either elicit a submissive behaviour response or otherwise simply encourage the dogs to become more excitable.
Use the basic rule – ignore all negative / bad behaviour, and reward and praise positive / good behaviour.
Limit your dog’s options – do not put the dog in a position where he can misbehave, he will then learn appropriate behaviour and earn your praise and reward. Success breeds success!
VISITORS AND EXCITABLE DOGS
As your visitors arrive have the dog on a collar and leash for control. Do not permit the visitors to acknowledge or greet the dog. They must ignore the animal until he is calm!
Do not let the visitors make eye contact with the dog, nor should they speak to him. He should be completely ignored until he is behaving in an appropriate way.
Crate train your dog – see the relevant section on crate training. Let the dog decide what is rewarding! Either have a crate in the room or area where the social is taking place or make the dog a bed or put down a blanket in a corner or non- traffic area, so that he is comfortable. Keep the dog on his collar and leash and tether him to a piece of heavy furniture or the window bars and ignore him for five minutes.
You can give him his favourite natural chew or toy to give him something to do, but do not feed or give him titbits if he is not behaving in an appropriate manner. Reward and acknowledge only positive behaviour.
If he does not settle after five minutes – then very calmly, without making a fuss (and with no eye contact) put him outside or in a non-contact area for five minutes doggie time out.
If he performs at the door / window only let him in the second he is quiet
You may then go through the entire procedure again, and again, and again, as many times as it takes before the dog gives you the calm behaviour that you need for him to interact with the visitors.
He will soon work out, that if he wants to be included in the human pack, he has to behave in a particular manner. This “inclusion”, is very important (from the dogs point of view) as he is a pack animal, and inclusion into the human canine pack is the basis of his nature and where he feels most safe and secure, (as he has the pack’s back up and support!)
This will have to be continually repeated each and every time that you have visitors until you are successful! Please note: The most difficult dog I ever worked with took 14 days of daily visitors (the visits were set up with dog friendly – well trained – visitors)
Once he is calm with the visitors then you can either, un-tether him (keep his leash on, so that you can grab him if need be to ensure control and compliance to commands) or (with his leash still on) just open the door of his crate and let him decide on his next course of action.
Again give him a few minutes to settle, having the visitors ignore him.
If he does not settle, then follow the “doggie time out” rules as previously explained.
Only allow visitors to acknowledge him when he is behaving in an appropriate manner.
Once he has got used to the above and showing good house manners then the visitors may calmly greet him and even if his behaviour warrants it, give him a treat or toy.
Make sure that initially the interaction with the visitors is brief, and they don’t get him too excitable. The visitors must be very calm, with calm voice and calm slow body language, and slow hand and arm movements or he will become excitable again. If he does get excited again, then you know you have given him “triggers” or allowed the visitors to get too interesting!
If your dog has a relapse – go back to the stage where he was coping and then work forward from there. Repeat until he gets the message.
Remember to be CONSISTENT – and also to get your visitors to be CONSISTENT!
DOGS NEED GOOD ROLE MODELS – the best rule to follow is to be a good example to your dog.
CALM HOUSEHOLD = CALM DOG!
By Louise Thompson Accredited Animal Behaviour Consultant. (ABC of SA ©®™)
From a dogs point of view, if a behaviour is successful, (which means that the dog is rewarded for exhibiting a particular behaviour), then he will repeat the behaviour.
Reward, to a dog, can be one of many things, including receiving attention from his owner or pack leader! Most dogs even perceive negative attention as rewarding. So in other words, shouting, smacking and nagging the dog is rewarding, as the dog is getting you to take notice of him = attention = reward!
Dogs that constantly demand attention from their owners have learnt that this behaviour is successful.
More often than not, the more attention they demand, the more attention the owners give – if only to sometimes just keep the peace! This tends to just perpetuate the problem which then usually tends to worsen!
Attention seeking behaviour can present in many forms such as:-
• Demanding to be stroked
• Nudging for a stroke
• Pawing
• Resting his head on your lap for a stroke
• Constantly demanding to be let in / out
• Demanding food / water
• Refusal to eat – especially in the hope of being hand fed / or provided with higher value food, in overindulged cases.
• Vocalisation / barking / howling / yapping (the reward is the owners yelling “shut up”) = owner attention
• Vocalisation when the owner is on the telephone.
• Toy control
• Demanding to play (with or without toys)
• Demanding to go for a walk (ritualised behaviours)
• Begging at the table
• Physical exhibition of neurosis – to receive a response or comfort (shivering etc)
• Jumping up and certain excitable behaviour
• Some destructive behaviours.
• Leash forging (pulling on the lead)
• Jumping up against you to be picked up or carried.
Dogs who exhibit “attention seeking” behaviours are often insecure and over-indulged. These dogs often are suffering from stress caused by a lack of leadership – thus the basic pack responsibilities are directly on their shoulders! (Shame poor dogs!)
If a human does not provide leadership, the dog will instinctively have to take over that role – that is a natural part of hierarchal pack behaviour.
Being a leader does not mean you have to be harsh or nasty to your dog, as a leader you should be calm and a bit more aloof, but most important of all, as a leader you are the protector and decision maker (never a bully!)
In this regard, dogs also often receive conflicting signals from their owners – thus adding to their confusion and indirectly encouraging the behaviour – if only to receive a response.
Attention seeking dogs often are low ranking individuals, given owner status that they have not earned – this also causes confusion and encourages negative behaviours and dissention in a pack.
The miscommunication is often caused by Anthromorphisismn (owner’s misguidedly attributing human feelings and emotions to animals) this causes insecure, unhappy, confused dogs.
WAYS TO REDUCE OR ELIMINATE ATTENTION SEEKING BEHAVIOUR:
• Ignore negative behaviour and only reward and react to “good” or positive behaviours. For many dogs, the only attention they ever seem to get is when they are misbehaving! Try to consciously make more fuss of your dog when he is being “good”. The reward for being good is then habituated as if you are ignoring “bad” behaviour – the dog will desire attention and learn to get it by displaying behaviour that gets him attention!
• Use the “doggie time out” principles – which include – If the dog wants to be included in YOUR pack he has to abide by your rules.
• Become a good leader and decision maker – do not let the dog make any decisions. This will make you more valuable, reduce much doggy stress, and make your dog feel more secure as it lifts much (decision making / high ranking) responsibilities off his shoulders.
• Ensure that you initiate any contact with the dog – for example, if your dog comes and demands to play - ignore him until he stops demanding. Wait a couple of minutes and then call him for a game. In this way you have taken control, been the decision maker and rewarded the dog be encouraging the “good” behaviour to be repeated (as when he was calm and quiet – you then called him for a game)
• Make sure you make all decisions not the dog. You need to decide when all the good things in life happen – not the dog. This will take a huge “load” off his shoulders as you bear the brunt of the leadership role! Also he should learn that you are the provider of all good things, such as a walk, food, meals, grooming, games etc. All which should be on your terms and at your invitation!
• He should also have to “earn” all the good things in life. A simple sit or compliance with any other simple command can precede a reward, or a valuable thing in his life. Nothing should be given for free!
• If the dog repeatedly jumps up against you for a stroke or to be picked up. As he starts his “routine” then without speaking or reacting, simply jump up, march out of the room, and slam the door in his face. Give it a minute or two and then return and repeat if necessary. The second the dog does not demand to be picked up, then call him to you and pick him up and give him attention. Reward only good behaviour. This principle can be followed through to reduce various attention seeking behaviours.
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DOGGY TIME OUT
By Louise Thompson Accredited Animal Behaviourist ABC of SA: (©®™)
Owning an excitable or demanding dog, or pup, can ruin your social life; make family functions and other social events a nightmare. People can even begin to look for excuses not to come around to see you! If a dog or pup has not learnt social manners – it is never too late to instil new rules and regulations in your household. It is a fallacy that you cannot teach an old dog, new tricks! Any habit can be changed if the owners are consistent and send the “right” messages!
The most important rule of all is for everyone to be CONSISTENT!
Through repetition, patience, and consistency, dogs and pups learn patterns of behaviour very quickly! Therefore, to alter their attitude, and response, is actually very easy - if you go about it the right way!
RULES AND TIPS FOR EXCITABLE AND DIFFICULT DOGS :
Never punish your dog (either verbally or physically) for excited behaviour as you will either elicit a submissive behaviour response or otherwise simply encourage the dogs to become more excitable.
Use the basic rule – ignore all negative / bad behaviour, and reward and praise positive / good behaviour.
Limit your dog’s options – do not put the dog in a position where he can misbehave, he will then learn appropriate behaviour and earn your praise and reward. Success breeds success!
VISITORS AND EXCITABLE DOGS
As your visitors arrive have the dog on a collar and leash for control. Do not permit the visitors to acknowledge or greet the dog. They must ignore the animal until he is calm!
Do not let the visitors make eye contact with the dog, nor should they speak to him. He should be completely ignored until he is behaving in an appropriate way.
Crate train your dog – see the relevant section on crate training. Let the dog decide what is rewarding! Either have a crate in the room or area where the social is taking place or make the dog a bed or put down a blanket in a corner or non- traffic area, so that he is comfortable. Keep the dog on his collar and leash and tether him to a piece of heavy furniture or the window bars and ignore him for five minutes.
You can give him his favourite natural chew or toy to give him something to do, but do not feed or give him titbits if he is not behaving in an appropriate manner. Reward and acknowledge only positive behaviour.
If he does not settle after five minutes – then very calmly, without making a fuss (and with no eye contact) put him outside or in a non-contact area for five minutes doggie time out.
If he performs at the door / window only let him in the second he is quiet
You may then go through the entire procedure again, and again, and again, as many times as it takes before the dog gives you the calm behaviour that you need for him to interact with the visitors.
He will soon work out, that if he wants to be included in the human pack, he has to behave in a particular manner. This “inclusion”, is very important (from the dogs point of view) as he is a pack animal, and inclusion into the human canine pack is the basis of his nature and where he feels most safe and secure, (as he has the pack’s back up and support!)
This will have to be continually repeated each and every time that you have visitors until you are successful! Please note: The most difficult dog I ever worked with took 14 days of daily visitors (the visits were set up with dog friendly – well trained – visitors)
Once he is calm with the visitors then you can either, un-tether him (keep his leash on, so that you can grab him if need be to ensure control and compliance to commands) or (with his leash still on) just open the door of his crate and let him decide on his next course of action.
Again give him a few minutes to settle, having the visitors ignore him.
If he does not settle, then follow the “doggie time out” rules as previously explained.
Only allow visitors to acknowledge him when he is behaving in an appropriate manner.
Once he has got used to the above and showing good house manners then the visitors may calmly greet him and even if his behaviour warrants it, give him a treat or toy.
Make sure that initially the interaction with the visitors is brief, and they don’t get him too excitable. The visitors must be very calm, with calm voice and calm slow body language, and slow hand and arm movements or he will become excitable again. If he does get excited again, then you know you have given him “triggers” or allowed the visitors to get too interesting!
If your dog has a relapse – go back to the stage where he was coping and then work forward from there. Repeat until he gets the message.
Remember to be CONSISTENT – and also to get your visitors to be CONSISTENT!
DOGS NEED GOOD ROLE MODELS – the best rule to follow is to be a good example to your dog.
CALM HOUSEHOLD = CALM DOG!
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