Dogs to Be Placed in Shelters for Abused Women

Dogs to Be Placed in Shelters for Abused Women

Submitted by Freelance Writers on February 14,

The American Humane Association is working on a campaign to raise awareness about links between animal abuse and other forms of violence. To support this study, it has created the first national initiative to promote on-site housing of pets at women’s shelters and to acknowledge the human-animal bond, which can be crucial to recovery after a crisis.

The Pets and Women’s Shelters Program (PAWS)(tm) was created by Allie Phillips, director of public policy for American Humane, who frequently witnessed the pain victims go through when they are forced to stay in abusive situations because they fear for their pets’ safety.

Phillips explained, “In the mid-1990s as an assistant prosecutor, my misdemeanor criminal trial docket included many domestic violence cases. Most of those cases never proceeded to trial or resulted in guilty pleas because the victims often failed to appear in court due to fear of retaliation by their batterers. One frequent concern I heard was ‘If I testify or if I do not go back to him, he will kill my pet.’ In nationally training on the Link for the past four years, and realizing the concerns that family violence shelters might have in housing pets on-site, I decided to do something about it. This has been my passion for years and I’m proud that American Humane supported my vision.”

Between 71 and 85 percent of women entering domestic violence shelters reported that a partner had threatened, injured or killed the family pet, according to a study done in 1997. And more often than not, because of few options for safely housing pets from abusive homes, victims feel they have little choice but to stay and subject themselves, their children and their pets to further violence.

To help quickly spread the program throughout the nation, American Humane has published a Pets and Women’s Shelters (PAWS) Program manual to help shelters assess their needs and provide step-by-step instructions for implementing the program. The ultimate goal of PAWS is to enable more domestic violence victims to leave abusive households without leaving their pets behind and at risk.

In another study done in 2007 in 12 Link-based research studies, results indicated that between 18 and 48 percent of women reported concerns regarding their pets’ safety, and had either delayed leaving abusive homes or remained in abusive homes out of fear of leaving their pets behind.

The PAWS Program acknowledges the unfortunate link between human violence and animal cruelty. But it also recognizes the healing bond pets can provide to people who have endured trauma. American Humane encourages all domestic and family violence shelters across the country to take the necessary steps toward implementing the PAWS Program at their facilities.

 

Pets and the Elderly

Trauma For Elderly Pet Lovers Forced to Give Up Their Pets

Submitted by The Blue Cross on December 9, 2008

Elderly people in over a third of residential care homes experience noticeable symptoms of distress because they have to give up a beloved pet, according to research published today by the Society for Companion Animal Studies (SCAS), with funding from the Pet Food Manufacturers’ Association (PFMA).

The in-depth study of 234 care homes and sheltered housing units revealed that the vast majority of care facilities in the UK do not allow people to take pets, despite a growing body of evidence showing the importance of pets to older people1.

The number of elderly people in the UK is growing every year and many will eventually need residential care. Around a quarter of all people over retirement age are thought to own a pet, but the study shows that only 29% of care facilities routinely allow pets. Of these homes that do allow pets over half specifically exclude dogs and cats, despite these being the most commonly kept species of pet. The importance of pet ownership seems to be largely ignored with only 24% of facilities asking potential residents whether they have a pet and only 35% having any formal policy about pets.

67-year-old dog owner Brenda Eustace is just one of many thousands of people who are affected by this problem. She suffers from mobility problems, high blood pressure and depression which make life alone in her basement flat increasingly difficult. With no immediate family, Mrs Eustace relies on friends and invalidity support to get by and has applied to move into sheltered housing. But dogs are not allowed and moving home without her Yorkshire Terrier, Cassidy, is unthinkable – so her daily struggle will sadly continue.

Brenda Eustace said: “I’ve been through some very difficult times and Cassidy has been the one thing that gets me up in the morning. He’s always been there for me so I owe it to him to do the same. He’s such a friendly little dog and everybody loves him, I just can’t understand why he isn’t allowed into sheltered housing. As an older person of limited means, all I have left is freedom of speech and freedom of choice and I’m not giving Cassidy up.”

Older people who are forced to part with a pet to move into residential care can suffer feelings of bereavement that are similar to the loss of a family member2. Severe reactions can lead to depression, disturbed sleep or eating patterns, and even physical illness.

Elizabeth Ormerod, Chairman of the Society for Companion Animal Studies and a practising vet said: “The importance of pets to older people cannot be understated; for some they are their best friend, their family and their only lifeline to the outside world. When age or ill health forces someone to move into care, why should they be parted from a loyal companion who offers them unconditional love and support, comfort and constancy?”

She continued: “I believe that people of all ages should have the right to benefit from animal companionship, as long as this is managed responsibly. So we’re encouraging all housing and residential care providers to develop clear and carefully considered pet policies.”

As well as exploring the impact of pet policies on older people, the study contacted 23 animal shelters and 44 veterinary surgeries to find out what implications there are for animals. The results suggest that many thousands of healthy pets every year are tragically put to sleep on the request of their elderly owners or well-meaning family members who think they have no other choice. In fact, animal charities like The Blue Cross will often take in these pets and find them loving new homes.

The ‘Pets and Older People in Residential Care’ research findings are published in full on the SCAS website (www.scas.org.uk/petsforlife) which also offers essential information for care home providers and older people who are thinking about moving into care. This includes:

For older people:

· Information on finding care facilities that will allow pets

· Guidelines on producing a ‘case for support’ for taking your pet into care

· Contact details for charities who can help to find a new home for your pet

· Free phone and email support for coping with pet loss

· Interviews with people who are affected by this issue

For care facilities:

· Evidence of the benefits of pets to older people

· Information on the impact of pet loss on older people

· Guidelines for producing a formal pet policy

· Practical tips for managing pets in residential care

· Examples of care homes that successfully allow pets

 

NSPCA E NEWSLETTER

E-NEWSLETTER

24 MARCH 2010

HOT IRON BRADING - IN THE FACE!

Visuals of this terrible practice have been placed on www.nspca.co.za as well as the full media release we issued on Friday 19 March. Having uncovered that branding animals with hot irons in the face had re-surfaced, we obtained the evidence, went public and will lay criminal charges. We know we have your full support. It is cruel and unjustifiable.

 

EASTERN CAPE TRIP - HUNTING DOGS

An inspector from the Education Unit assessed the situation in the Pedi district of the Eastern Cape where chicory and pineapple farmers were contracting local owners of pack hounds to hunt down bush pig that may damage their crops. It appears to be a lucrative business judging from the calibre of the scent and sight hounds observed. The local hunters use their dogs track and run down the bush pig and are paid cash for a successful kill plus they are allowed to keep the meat. Our concerns are for both predator and prey animals. This matter is ongoing with the priority being the seeking of humane alternate methods to deter bush pigs.

 

WILDLIFE UNIT

During the past week the Wildlife Unit joined the Liaison Unit in the Eastern Cape for routine inspections which were undertaken to two elephant-back safari operations, one near Grahamstown and another near East London. The one facility made the news headlines recently after a handler was gored by one of their elephants. The elephant involved has been moved to another facility. Further inspections in the East London area were undertaken at a predator breeding facility and at an animal "touch farm", a vervet monkey rehabilitation centre as well as the East London zoo.

In the Port Elizabeth area, visits were made to a crocodile and lion park, a raptor and reptile park, a private collector holding various reptiles, a veterinarian with a rehabilitation centre, Bay World Aquarium and Reptiles as well as the new seabird rehabilitation centre.

Two warnings were issued for unsatisfactory feed and water provisions and for the lack of a Performing Animals Protection Act license which applies to animals being exhibited.

 

PIGEON RACING

The major "one race" pigeon lofts in the Eastern Cape have been inspected and meetings were held with the relevant pigeon Unions, Clubs and Federations in order to discuss the upliftment of welfare standards as well as to address any potential Animals Protection Act contraventions. The lofts that were inspected ranged from basic to luxurious.

 

DOG RACING UPDATE

You may recall that public hearings took place in 2009. Animal care, welfare and rights groups stood united opposing the re-introduction of dog racing in South Africa. The findings of these hearings (which the N SPCA attended) were submitted and held over pending further investigations into gambling as a whole.

We have now been notified that a series of public hearings has been planned across the country on gambling. We believe that dog racing will be one of the aspects included. The N SPCA will attend these hearings to continue our opposition. Dog racing remains illegal in South Africa.

 

"REALITY" TV

A complaint has been received regarding footage on the SABC3 programme, the Amazing ( Northern Cape) Race. Contestants were chasing sheep and some of the sheep were grabbed by their back legs.

Sadly, we reiterate that "reality" television falls outside the current broadcasting code and does not require monitoring by a welfare organisation. We firmly believe that these programmes are not documentaries but staged entertainment and we continue to press for their inclusion in a broadcasting code. Please go to www.nspca.co.za under MEDIA RELEASES to see the statement we issued in February 2010 when at long last there was a ruling, albeit in Australia but we felt the precedent was set.

The NSPCA has worked on this issue, lobbying for the Code to widen and for the definition of "reality" to narrow to refer to genuine documentaries only.

 

MOZAMBIQUE

We are delighted to report that thanks to liaison with the World Society for the Protection of Animals (WSPA) we are in touch with MAPS - Mozambique Animal Protection Society which is now registered as a non profit organisation. They told us, "There is so much work to be done here but we are focusing on the stray dog problem, promoting sterilisation and education. At present when we come across acts of animal cruelty we can only try to educate the offender but have no power to remove the animals or prosecute - this is our biggest stumbling block. As you pointed out, the lack of even the most basic veterinary care does not help the plight of the animals in Mozambique. We are working towards establishing mobile clinics which will be able visit rural areas to promote sterilization, vaccinations and primary animal care."

 

APPRECIATION

Our Training Unit is very grateful to Karen Corlett for very kindly donating her time and skills to us by converting old slides into usable photos on CD. Some of the material is very valuable as a training tool and will be used to on our Inspectors Training Courses.

This is a great example of how your skills and time can be used to help animals in a meaningful way.

We also take this opportunity to thank Anne van Vliet for the kind donation of an electric typewriter, following our newsletter appeal for one.

 

SOCCER SHIRTS

As a team-building exercise and to get right into the spirit of the 2010 Soccer World Cup, staff at the NSPCA have been given permission to work in soccer jerseys on Fridays - except when working in the field of course. We've had no success as yet in obtaining donated shirts. Readers are assured that we would never spend valued income on something like this - donations are FOR THE ANIMALS! If anyone can help with donated/sponsored soccer shirts, please let us know. Even if we only obtain a few it would be a great start.

Until next time

With best regards

Chris Kuch

Farm cruelty

HOT IRON BRANDING – IN THE FACE!

NSPCA STEPS IN

Heart-rending footage of calves as young as 6 months old having smouldering metal brands forced into their faces can be seen on www.nspca.co.za . The reaction of the young animals is clear as they bellow and recoil in pain. The NSPCA took the pitiful footage when an inspector came across this unacceptable practice that appears to have re-surfaced.

 

We ask how anyone who views this material can come to terms with the mindset of individuals who stand and watch the procedure or with the individuals who force the burning iron into the faces of small, helpless and trusting animals.

 

Please go to www.nspca.co.za to pick up the visual evidence. Material may be reproduced subject to the National Council of SPCAs being acknowledged as the source.

 

The justification from within “the industry” is that branding is a legal requirement. The NSPCA accepts this, stressing that freeze-branding is the method we prefer. Hot branding is bad enough and the NSPCA vehemently opposes this method. We accept that hot-iron branding is not illegal but we emphasise that branding the rump hind-quarter is far preferable to burning a young animal’s face.

 

The NSPCA voiced our objections to hot-iron branding when the Animal Identification Act of 2002 was under discussion.

 

We believe forcing smouldering pieces of metal into the faces of baby animals is tantamount to torture. Perpetrators have been cautioned.

 

The fact that it continues and with the supporting visual evidence, we believe the time has come to lay criminal charges and to pursue the matter vigorously through every legal channel available to us.

 

The media is advised that the matter is being forcefully pursued and that a docket against the perpetrators is in preparation.

 

The NSPCA is mindful of the issue of stock theft and the motivation for legally prescribing that animals must be identified. Our point is that there are alternatives to hot-iron branding in the face.

 

Nothing can justify suffering.

NSPCA NEWSLETTER

E-NEWSLETTER

17 MARCH 2010

REPORTING CRUELTY - PLEASE DO IT DIRECTLY!
Please spread the word that cases of animal abuse/cruelty/neglect need to be reported directly. Two cases were drawn to our attention last week after they had been "posted" on a web site. Many web sites have a facility for reporting crimes and the number of these sites continues to grow. Time is inevitably lost reaching the animals even if the webmaster is sufficiently alert and caring as to notify us. It is impossible to monitor them all or know of their existence.

 

Anonymity or "not getting involved" may be reasons why people take this route. The public is assured that all information sent directly to an SPCA is treated with the utmost confidentiality in terms of the identity of the informant which will always be protected and never revealed.

 

WILDLIFE UNIT

The Wildlife Unit is undertaking inspections in the Eastern Cape this week. Facilities to be inspected include zoos, rehabilitation centres, elephant-back safari operations and predator facilities. The Unit will also be meeting with Eastern Cape Nature Conservation officials to discuss a serious issue concerning caracal being kept in totally unsatisfactory conditions .

You can't be suspicious of a tree, or accuse a bird or a squirrel of subversion or challenge the ideology of a violet. ~Hal Borland, Sundial of the Seasons, 1964

 

EDUCATION - EASTER WORKSHEET

We have designed an Easter Word Search worksheet so that SPCAs can take advantage of Easter to educate children about the welfare of animals. (Did you know that there are over

3 000 references to animals in the Bible?)

 

PIGEON RACING

You will have noticed that a primary area of concern is pigeon racing. While we do not support the exploitation of any animals, we are very pleased by the rapid progress made with the South African Pigeon Racing Organisation (SANPO) in identifying common areas of concern regarding the welfare of their pigeons. We have been invited to address the SANPO Executive Management Committee as well as the members at their national AGM in April.

 

HOW DO WE ACHIEVE THE OBJECTIVES OF ANIMAL PORTFOLIOS?

You may be wondering how one goes about improving the welfare in animal-related activities. Our approach is to research as much as we can from the participants of the sport/activity that we are evaluating through observation and by finding out from them what they actually do and why, so that we can identify if and what welfare concerns need addressing, and how.

 

EASTERN CAPE TRIP

Michelle Moll is in the Eastern Cape this week and will be undertaking loft inspections, meeting with key people in pigeon racing, making her expertise as a registered and experienced animal behaviourist available to SPCAs in the area and providing guidance with animal welfare education. Follow her daily activities on Facebook ( www.facebook.com/nspca) and on Twitter ( http://twitter.com/NSPCA_SA) .

 

ARE YOU AN ECO WARRIOR OR ECO TERRORIST?

We all know that our planet is in trouble, and that all animals as well as people and the environment are being directly and negatively affected, and that we will see the loss of many habitats and animal species.

You can substantively reduce the carbon footprint of your vehicle and make a positive difference - it boils down to one thing, slow down. Carbon output is determined by fuel output:- the faster you drive and accelerate, the more fuel you use and the more carbon is dumped into the atmosphere. (Reference: Australian Government website at http://alturl.com/oeps.)

Using 1 litre less per 100 kms reduces the amount of carbon going into the atmosphere, saves money directly, reduces wear and tear, and increases tyre life.

So, if a vehicle is travelling 30 000 kms per annum:-

· Diesel - carbon footprint reduced by 810 kg;

· Petrol - carbon footprint reduced by 690 kg;

· At R7,91 per litre for petrol the amount put back into your pocket would be R2 373, and at R7,60 per litre for diesel, you get to keep R2 280.

Are you part of the problem or part of the solution? YOUR CHOICE

 

DOG POISONINGS

We have observed that some advice is being given on websites that people should not report dog poisonings to the SAPS as they cannot be investigated. This is not true. Dog poisonings must be reported to the SA Police who track trends - information relating to trends and high activity areas are then disseminated to the relevant Community Police Forum (CPF) reservists and patrollers.

 

FOR THE RECORD

Please go to www.nspca.co.za for the full statement on the spate of communications relating to animal cruelty/neglect/abuse being sent by caring people to other South African welfare organisations - only to have the matters referred to ourselves by them. We are happy to do the work. Our point is that unlike 15 or 20 years ago there are now 70 registered animal welfare organisations plus an unknown number of unregistered ones in South Africa.

 

They compete with us for income.

 

One example is a complaint to a South African animal welfare organisation which was given the reply "Thank you for your enquiry and for alerting us to the complaint. The best in this area is to contact the N SPCA in Johannesburg."

We make these statements not for recognition but to emphasise the extent of competition for funding in the context of exactly who does the work. A policy decision has now been taken that from now on the N SPCA will request details of the informant so that we can give feedback directly and make it clear exactly who investigated the matter. Or if the caring person's details are given we shall revert back to that person directly with the outcome of our investigation/assistance/rescue.

 

Until next time

With kindest regards

Chris Kuch

Simple explanation of the basic body language of dogs

Dogs use their bodies and paws to express a variety of different things.  Below are some examples and what they mean.

Dog crouches with front legs extended, rear up, and head near the ground: This is the classic play-bow and means simply "I want to play!"

Stiff-legged, upright posture or slow, stiff-legged movement forward: "I am in charge around here!" and "I challenge you." A dominant dog will use this posture to indicate assertion of authority and a willingness to fight for it.

Body slightly sloped forward, feet braced: "I accept your challenge and am ready to fight!"

Dog rolls on side or exposes underside: "Let us not argue" or "I am not a threat to you" or "I accept that you are in charge here." This is a submissive response to avert conflict. Many dogs adopt this posture in a fairly relaxed and contented manner when they are around their pack leader. When your dog rolls on his back for a belly rub, he is actually accepting you as leader of the pack.

Dog places head on another dog's shoulder or places paw on the back of another dog: "I want you to know who is the boss around here." These gestures are commonly used by dominant dogs, pack leaders, and dogs that have aspirations of becoming a pack leader.

Mouthing: This shows up in dog-human interactions as the dog taking the handler's hand in his mouth or, while walking, taking the lead in the mouth. Mouthing can be a serious sign of dominance challenging and shows that the dog does not accept the human as pack leader.

Dog places paw on master's knee: "Look, I am here" or "Pay attention to me." This attention-seeking signal has many variations. They include pawing the air in front of their master or sliding the head under the master's hand.

Hair bristles on back and shoulders: This is a sign of anticipated aggression. A ridge of hair bristling down the back is a sign that says "Do not push me, I am angry!" When the bristling extends to the shoulders it means "I have had it with you" and is a sign of an imminent attack.

Dog sits with one front paw slightly raised: This is another sign of stress but is combined with insecurity. It means "I am anxious, uneasy and concerned."

Dog rolls on his back and rubs it on the ground: This is sometimes preceded by nose rubbing where the dog pushes his face, and possibly his chest against the ground in a rubbing motion or rubs the face with a forepaw, from eyes to nose. They often follow feeding or occur as the dog's owner begins to prepare food. However they also can occur following or in anticipation of other pleasant activities.

Scraping the ground and ripping the turf with the paws: This is usually after the dog has defecated but may occur at other times. Dogs have glands on the bottom of their feet that provide each with a unique scent. What a dog is saying here is " I was here and I am leaving my calling card!"

 

 

Choosing a pup from an existing litter - which one?

Found this nice article the other day whilst I was attempting to “surf” lol!

 

Once you have chosen a breeder, it is time to pick out the puppy from the available litter. A good rule of thumb is to avoid extremes. Disqualify any puppies that are excessively submissive or fearful, and avoid puppies that are extremely dominant or bullying.

 

Fierce food or toy guarding, exaggerated barking or biting, submissive urination, and extreme apathy are all bad signs in young puppies. Curiosity, however, is good, as are playfulness and confidence. Above all, do not let the puppy pick you. The big fat one that charges at you and monopolizes your attention may win your heart, but it is very likely the most dominant, and it will be a handful.

 

Decide which sex puppy you prefer. Males tend to be larger and more dominant, curious, and courageous. They are better workers and are not as moody. They do not come into season and are cheaper to alter. They are also more likely to fight and roam. Females are normally smaller, less dominant and defiant, and more sensitive and moody. They normally come into heat twice a year, but they are less likely to fight and to roam. If you have chosen an extremely dominant breed such as the Rottweiler or Chow Chow, you would be wise to consider a female. A male might be better if you have decided on a less dominant breed such as a Maltese or a Soft-Coated Wheaten Terrier.

 

Do not choose two puppies from the same litter. Litter-mates bond very closely to each other, making it much more difficult for the owner to establish leadership. If you want two dogs, properly raise one puppy first, and then consider another, perhaps two or three years later. The older dog will serve as a role model for the puppy, making your job that much easier.

 

Observe the litter without interacting with it. How do the puppies look? Are there some large puppies and one or two runts? Do you see any glaring structural problems in any of them? Is there any loose stool or vomit present? Are some puppies very lethargic? If the breeder has classified some of the litter as show quality and the rest as pet quality, ask why. Also inquire as to the number of males and females. If there are only one or two puppies of the gender you desire, you will not have as much of a range of temperaments to choose from. Avoid picking a puppy that is the sole survivor in the litter; it will have missed the early crucial social interaction that goes on in a normal litter.

 

Next, enter the kennel and interact with the litter. How do they react to your presence? Do some run away and hide, bark and charge, or show playful curiosity? This last reaction is the most desirable.

 

Next, examine each one and look for any overt physical problems. Look for eye or nose discharge, bloodshot eyes, mange, overly dry skin or coat, and fleas. Is the puppy's belly bloated? This might indicate worms, a condition that most puppies have and must be treated for. Look in their mouths to make sure that the gums are a healthy pink and not whitish gray.

 

During this procedure, take note of how the puppies react to being handled. Do they fight and bite? Struggle and then submit? Show great fear?

 

 

Karen Pryor News - Not only for Dogs!

Fun with Rats

I loved Lucy

When I lived in the Pacific Northwest, I kept a brown and white pet rat named Lucy. She would come when called, so I could give her the run of the office. She was a delightful pet, cozy, chatty, and full of enjoyment of life. When I moved to Boston, I re-homed her with a neighbor’s little boy and he loved her, too.

Lab rats

In the course of writing Reaching the Animal Mind, I interviewed some leading neuroscientists and met some of their rats. Thanks to my history with Lucy, I now took a real interest in those rats. Most of the experimental rats were fitted out with cranial implants—metal hats—that allow direct study of the brain in action. This headgear didn’t seem to bother the rats. What bothered me, though, was an absence of operant training in some experimental designs. Some scientists were asking for straightforward tasks from an operant standpoint—press this if you see that—but it seemed to me that they didn’t explain the job to the rat in a way the rat could understand.

One day here in Boston, I received an e-mail from a Harvard neuroscientist named Bence Ölveczky. The students in his laboratory were reading Don’t Shoot the Dog and wanted to find out more about using operant conditioning with their rats.

As I understood it, the work they were focusing on was this: what happens in the brain when the animal learns complex behaviors, such as a behavior chain. Isn’t that right up our alley? Yes it is. Would I come over and talk to them? Yes indeed.

I went to the lab, which is about fifteen minutes from my house, and met with Dr. Ölveczky and some of the students. I gave a talk about clicker training to a group from several departments. And I saw some rats.

Enrichment

Because of the cranial implants, the rats have to live alone; you can’t have another rat nibbling on that fancy headgear. Each rat lived in a transparent box with deep, clean, suitable litter. The students asked me if I knew ways to make their rats even more comfortable.

I consulted by e-mail with Virginia Broitman, a clicker expert and rat lover. Virginia provided a list of what zoo trainers call enrichment items for rats: things to chew and manipulate; periods of darkness; chances to explore; novel foods. I forwarded the list to the lab, along with a memorandum on the requirements for a good marker signal and some thoughts on reinforcers.

What kinds of behaviors are needed?

Examining and probing the rat’s brain through a cranial implant is a painless procedure, but the brain needs to be held still during the process. Could a rat learn to hold still voluntarily, instead of being under total physical restraint? Probably, I said. People are doing it with monkeys through clicker training.

A month later, I had lunch off-campus with Adam Kampff, a post-doc in the Ölveczky lab, and his wife Eva, another neuroscience graduate student. Adam told me that a student had successfully trained one of her rats to put its head in the right place and keep it there, but when she lowered the clamps on the headpiece prior to actually activating the probes, the rat panicked and pulled away.

“She’s just moving a little too fast,” I suggested. “It might help to break the training down into smaller steps.”

Does that help? We’ll see.

Another visit to the lab

In late February I made another visit. The lab had expanded into big new quarters. The rats were arranged so they could see each other. Guess what else? All the rats now had pieces of cardboard or paper and wood to chew on and manipulate.

Now everyone was training in several short sessions daily, rather than letting the automated training run for hours. Good! And the student working on voluntary self-positioning had trained three rats to go into position and hold their heads still on cue, for longer and longer times. She showed me that. Good job!

Another student had developed a clicker trained stress-free way to move rats around. She placed one end of a foot-long, flexible piece of thick tubing (like dryer vent tubing) in the rat’s home space. The rat ran into the tube. The student carried the tube to the experimental chamber, and the rat ran out the other end. A happy, calm rat and a happy, calm investigator.

The student also showed me her rat hotel. She had glued two cardboard boxes on top of each other, with holes in between, rope ladders, and toys—for ratty after-work fun time. A terrific non-food reinforcer!

Grad student Raj Podar wanted to use the computer to teach rats the basics of clicker training. The idea was to automatically teach rats to understand working for the click, to learn specific behaviors, and to learn that there are cues for each behavior. These pre-trained rats might have a real advantage in learning new tasks for subsequent experiments.

Raj switched his rats from day to night, because that’s their natural alert time. While we could watch them on the computer, the rats themselves worked in darkness. A simple kindness, yes, but also biologically appropriate and, maybe, helpful to the learning.

We watched on the computer monitor as four rats had their training sessions. Three were learning well, pressing the left stick on one cue, the right stick on another. The fourth rat, however, had gotten stuck on one side, and was in a classic extinction curve. Together, we all managed to figure out what may have happened and came up with a way to tweak the cue presentation method a little to see if that helped. Fun for me!

The training game

After lunch we played the training game. Students clicked each other for turning in a circle, putting paper in the trash, picking up a rock from the bamboo planter in the window. Laughter and applause. A first shaping experience.

Then I demonstrated shaping with a rat. The first rat we moved to a work table was vastly more interested in climbing out of her transparent box and exploring the tabletop than in food or work. We tried a second, more timid, rat. He stayed in his box gladly, and proved to be willing to work. I captured the behavior of sitting up on his hindquarters several times. Soon he was obviously doing it intentionally and holding the pose longer and longer. I suggested that someone else now tackle the shaping task of putting the behavior on cue. We put the rat back on the rat shelf so he wouldn’t go on offering the behavior in vain.

The students watched in silence. I was not dismayed by the lack of verbal behavior. I thought they were probably engaged in a behavior they were highly trained for: focusing, thinking, and learning. A lot. And fast.

(What will they figure out next? I can’t wait to see!)

 

Sterilisation and Ethical Breeding!

Behaviour & Learning Centre

082-890-0905 louthomp@mweb.co.za

www.animal-behaviour.org.za

pawsabilitiesbehaviourandlearning.blogspot.com

 

NEUTERING YOUR DOG

By Louise Thompson

Accredited Animal Behavioiur Consultant (ABC of SA©®™)

 

Not enough male dogs are neutered today!  There seems to be a big “hang up” about this simple medical procedure, myths and “old wives” stories abound, and usually given as reasons by owners, as why they don’t want to have their dogs “fixed”. I am also not ashamed to admit that I am actively trying to discourage people from adding to the unwanted dog over population! This simple procedure is performed under general anaesthetic by your veterinarian, from an early age (check with your veterinarian)

 

The most suitable family pet is either a neutered (castrated) male dog or a spayed (sterilised) bitch of the Gundog group / breeds. In dogs, it has been scientifically proved that there is a direct link between the production of testosterone and dominant aggressive behaviour, both inter-canine (dog to dog) and human-canine (dog to human).

 

The male dog’s level of testosterone “peaks” at about 30 months. Did you know that the profile of a typical dog who has attacked, and either mauled or killed a child is: - 

 

PROFILE OF A DANGEROUS DOG:

“A male dog between the ages of 24 and 30 months,

which has not been neutered/castrated of various working and fighting breeds.”

 

What is even more disturbing is that a good many of these attacks are by the family pet dog! In their own home! Most of these incidents could have been avoided and prevented and it could be said that most, was the owner’s fault!

 

The kind of relationship, or lack thereof, can also be added to the profile.

A profile of a dangerous dog!

·         Dogs that have had no learning or education. A dog’s education should begin at a reputable puppy learning and socialising group from about seven weeks of age and all learning should be reward based/positive reinforcement methods of learning. Abuse and punishment have no place in animal learning.

Education for a young pup and dog is vital to increase his levels of tolerance to all things, and people, as well as him learning basic manners and obedience to develop into a socially acceptable companion animal.

·         Owners who keep dogs living behind solid walls with no appropriate stimulation, (visual, mental or physical).

·         Yard dogs, kept as mobile security systems or defence mechanism.

·         Dogs that have little or no contact with their owners and who are kept just as “Yard Dogs”.

·         Dogs that have never been socialised and are kept in solitary confinement! 

·         Abused dogs.

·         Dogs that are kept chained up for long periods of time.

·         Dogs that have been extensively physically punished, and develop “defensive” fear aggression.

·         Dogs who have been teased and tormented by children and develop a negative association with children.

·         Untrained/partly untrained dogs that are taught “aggression” by ignorant trainers, and are triggered by an inappropriate situation. This would be considered as a “misread signal” by the dog.

·         Overtly indulged dogs that are given all the privileges of leadership in the human canine pack. These “spoiled brat” dogs often take it upon themselves to make a misguided critical decision in the home. No dog can cope with the responsibility of being the leader in the human – dog pack or group. Humans should be clear decision-makers and the dog should earn all privileges.

·         Dogs that are over protective, either of their environment (territory) or their owners.

·         Injured or sick dogs – defensive aggression or fear/pain biters.

All these kinds of dogs are all potential “attack” dogs.

 

NOTE: Unless the dog is a show animal, registered and a tip top breed champion dog with registered with the Kennel Union of Southern Africa or Federation papers, and is winning at breed and/or obedience dog shows: - NEUTER HIM!

 

NOTE: In this country even a pure bred dog, (without Kennel Union registration papers) is worthless. Even a pure bred registered dog that has not proved himself in the ring (either breed or obedience) is worth dramatically less than a winner! NEUTER HIM!

 

NOTE: One male dog can father hundreds of unwanted mongrel “randomly bred” puppies a year – of which a great number will be humanly killed by welfare agencies, as there are just too many dogs to place in homes! Many of these unwanted pups end up being abused and used for many horrendous purposes from dog fighting bait (for big money) to animal experimentation or just unloved and unwanted.  NEUTER HIM!

 

NOTE: If your dog is of a fighting breed and you are expecting a baby in the near future  Neuter him It makes for a better house pet – as explained above

 

NOTE: If you have any hint of aggressive or dominant behaviour – Neuter him

 

NOTE: If you have more than one male dog of different ages and want to avoid future aggression/fighting when the lower dog reaches maturity. Neuter the lower ranking (victim) dog at an early age to avoid status aggression.

 

NEUTERING YOUR MALE DOG IS THE ETHICAL THING TO DO!

In South Africa SPCA humanely kills thousands of dogs each year due to careless breeding. You do not need to add to the statistics!

 

       ADVANTAGES OF NEUTERING A MALE DOG

• Neutered dogs live longer – risks of prostate cancer are eliminated.
• Neutering lowers dominant aggressive behaviour towards owners by 65%.
• Neutering lowers inter-dog aggressive behaviour by some 65%
• There is a reduction of straying and wandering by some 80%
• There is a reduction of inappropriate urination/marking behaviour by 70%
• Neutering also lowers the male dog’s urge to mount, and simulate inappropriate copulation movements by some 70%
• Neutering focus’s attention and concentration.

 

IT IS OBVIOUS THAT THE ADVANTAGES OF NEUTERING/CASTRATION

GREATLY OUTWEIGH THE DISADVANTAGES.

 

DISPELLING THE MYTHS:

The most common negative stories heard about neutering the male dog are;-

• Neutered dogs put on weight!

So will you if you eat too much and don’t exercise enough!

 

• Neutered dogs make poor watchdogs!

How can that be? as neutering focuses attention and improves concentration, therefore a neutered male dog is less easily distracted by things that a robber would be likely to use as a distraction -  like a bitch in season..

 

• Neutering my dog will make him a wimp.

Only if he was already a wimp to start with!

Neutering does not change, and can not change your dog’s basic character!

 

• Besides that – how sexually frustrated do you think a dog becomes? Dogs live in an artificial world of confinement – usually behind walls or fences.  A dogs sense of smell is so enhanced that he can scent a bitch in season many kilometres away. This obviously creates the urge to procreate – however – as he is confined there is nothing he can do about it – how cruel is that! Without humanising this – the only way one could compare it to the human equivalent would be for a wife to dress up in her sexiest clothing, tease her husband to a state of high arousal and then tell him he cant touch – only look! Would that be fair!

 

As an afterthought - in closing I might add, that unlike their human counterparts, the only time that a male dog thinks of sex, is when there is a bitch in season within range without a headache! The rest of the time, the male dog is more interested in his supper! Dogs do not have recreational sex; dogs only have sex for procreation!

 

 

SPAYING YOUR BITCH PUPPY

By Louise Thompson Accredited ABC

 

                  There are numerous advantages to spaying a bitch puppy.

·         The procedure is done under general anaesthetic by your veterinarian, generally at about six months of age. Bitches adopted from the SPCA have to be sterilised prior to being homed out of the society’s area. Therefore, the spaying of female puppies adopted from an SPCA society is sometimes performed at an earlier age.

·         Spayed bitches and neutered dogs make the best family pets.

·         Unless you have a really good registered breed specimen, and are prepared to go to the length of attending and winning breed shows which takes tons of time energy, preparation and training it is definitely worth having your bitch puppy spayed:

 

 

Advantages of spaying a bitch

·         The bitch will not come into season and not be able to conceive puppies.

·         You will not have to worry about hormonal changes before, during, and after a season (heat). Hormonal changes in bitches often alter normal/usual behaviour.

·         You will save on kennel fees, for if a bitch is in season she should be kennelled to avoid any mating accidents. In some municipal areas – kennelling a bitch in season is compulsory!

·         You will not have to worry about the mess, time and effort it takes to clean up after a bitch is in season, (mess in the form of discharge, bleeding, etc.)

·         The bitch not being able to have a season makes your life a whole lot easier, you will not have the whole neighbourhood dogs camping on your doorstep, trying to mate her. It must be noted that one bitch can conceive several puppies from different males during the same season (heat).

·         Sterilised bitches live longer and have fewer health risks.

·         If your bitch is sterilised you will not have to worry about one of the neighbourhood dogs mating your bitch and creating more unwanted puppies in a world that is already over-populated with randomly bred strays, thus saving dogs lives!

 

Unless you have a really good registered breed specimen, and are prepared to go to the length of attending and winning breed shows, (which takes total dedication, tons of time energy, preparation and training) spay your bitch puppy. IT IS THE ETHICAL THING TO DO!

 

 

OFTEN PARENTS OF CHILDREN ASK

Why not let her have a litter of puppies for the children to experience the miracle of life?

In a world of canine over population, to use the excuse that you want your own children to see the “miracle of birth” forget it –

YOU HAVE LOST THE PLOT!

 

Thousands of dogs and puppies are killed each year at various welfare organisations due to there being more supply than demand.  Do not kid yourself that they are all street mongrels – they are not. Take a drive to your local animal welfare centre – look into the eyes of the dogs in kennels on death row, and then perhaps you might re-think your ideas and values.

 

Rather leave the breeding of dogs to the professionals who breed genetically sound animals and who breed expressly for the betterment of the breed. If you want the kids to experience the “miracle of birth” then rather buy them a good book or a video

 

Do you have any idea of the time money and effort it can take to bring a “Good” litter of puppies to the age where they can be homed!

 

 

CONSIDER the following:

         Cost of a suitable stud (male) dog to cover the bitch (can be thousands of rands!)

 

         Feed costs – pregnant and lactating bitches need to be on a special diet: Special feed is very expensive!

 

         Construction and expense of a suitable whelping area and the time involved in supervising and being on call waiting to deliver pups

 

         Birth costs – whelping can go horribly wrong and the bitch could need medical intervention – this really costs! She could need a caesarean section and intensive care for some time afterwards –very costly indeed, and not counting the time effort and energy spent nursing the bitch back to health when she gets back home!

 

         The bitch could die during the birth, which could leave you with lots of hungry little mouths to bottle feed, clean and stimulate toilet functions every two hours for the next six weeks or so!  It should be noted that some (larger) breeds can produce up to sixteen pups in one litter!!!

 

         Cleaning up (continually) after a group of energetic little souls! When weaned they will toilet after each meal and a couple of times in-between. With large breeds (who can have a litter of up to and over a dozen - giant breeds into the      teens) that means 4  meals a day x the amount of pups (average litter in medium breeds is 6) x another two bowel movements at the least! A quick sum gets me      to 48 stools to be cleared up a day! AND the area washed and disinfected after each toileting! Puppy’s are VERY labour intensive!!!!  AND that is not counting the destructive behaviour that will occur as soon as they are able to start exploring!!!!!

 

         If the dam dies during labour it must be pointed out that behaviourally orphan pups never develop normally, due to a lack of canine maternal imprinting. These orphaned pups often end up with severe behavioural problems later on.

 

         The pups could be sickly and need costly medication and veterinary fees

 

         The cost of the inoculation of the litter of puppies – expensive!

 

         The cost of regular de-worming of the litter of puppies – expensive!

 

         The cost of special feed for puppies – expensive!

 

         If the pups are “purebred” they will need to be registered with the registration authority such as the Kennel Union of SA or the various Federations of certain breeds. A fee is applicable for each pup that is registered. Certain breeds also required tattooing before being homed – also expensive! Litters born to bitches under the age of 24 months are NOT eligible for registration with the Kennel Union of SA.

 

         Time energy and effort involved in feeding, cleaning and training puppies. Puppies cry a lot, eat and drink and lot and they pee and pooh a lot – tons of time, effort, energy and money involved cleaning up after them – expensive!

 

MOST IMPORTANT OF ALL!

For medium and large breeds, at the end of the seventh week is the best time to place the puppies in their new homes.

THAT IS IF THERE ARE ANY HOMES AVAILABLE! 

 

Whom would you be able to find whom you can trust,  to take on one of these puppies, bearing in mind that taking on a puppy

is a twelve to fifteen year commitment?

 

WHAT ARE YOU GOING TO DO WHEN YOUR REALISE:

That you are not going to be able to get rid of all the puppies and that you might be saddled with the lot! And now the puppies are suddenly not so cute any more, and are fast becoming a nuisance, destructive and messy and costing you a lot of money, time, effort and energy. 

 

ARE YOU GOING TO KEEP THE ENTIRE LITTER?

Bear in mind some breeds can produce up to A DOZEN or more puppies! Or are you just going to dump them at the local SPCA when you realise that you are unable to get rid of them? ………..

 

Breeding should be left to the ethical reputable professionals who breed solely for the improvement and betterment of the breed In fact my personal belief is that people should have to be licensed, in order to be permitted the privilege of breeding a litter of puppies.

 

A breeder should have to prove himself “Worthy” before being allowed to add to the canine population.

 

The breeder should be considered the “Genetic Factory” of the end product – which should be a socially acceptable dog!

 

 

WHAT IS A REPUTABLE DOG BREEDER?

By Louise Thompson Accredited Animal Behaviour Consultant:

 

How would you find an ethical breeder? This is a very tough question, and the most logical answer is to find a “reputable breeder”. On paper, this seems easy enough – a quick phone call to the Kennel Union of Southern Africa, in Cape Town, will provide you a list of individuals who breed pure bred, registered dogs – but, as “breeders” are they all likely to be “reputable”? 

 

      THE “REPUTABLE” DOG BREEDER:

·         A reputable dog breeder, breeds dogs for the betterment of the breed, not to make a fast buck! He does NOT, breed a litter, and then look for homes for his puppies.

 

·         After high stud, pregnancy care, whelping and medical costs and then the costs involved in premium feed, labour and love ethical breeders USUALLY DON’T EVEN MAKE A PROFIT – in fact they are lucky if they break even!

 

·         A reputable breeder will have a waiting list of prospective (screened) owners BEFORE he even considers breeding a litter.

 

·         Most reputable breeders concentrate on one breed of dog only.

 

·         A reputable breeder will not rush you into making a choice nor will he pressure you to buy a puppy, nor would he ever permit you to take two puppies at the same time! It is a virtually impossible task to bring up two puppies from the same litter (or two pups of the same age from different litters) in one household.  When you have two puppies of similar ages in the same household, the future inter-canine relationship always ends up with one puppy being a “bully” and the other puppy being a “victim”! 

    

·         A reputable breeder would take responsibility for the puppy FOR THE REST OF THE PUPPY’S ENTIRE LIFE which simply means that if for some reason the new owner – even years down the line – could not keep the pup/dog, the BREEDER WOULD TAKE IT BACK – UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, which also means that the breeder must be in a financial and time management position to be able to do this!   

 

·         When choosing a puppy a reputable breeder will let you view and interact with both the dam (mother) and sire (father) of the puppies, at their own establishment. He does not meet you at the garage on the highway and tell you that the parents are just lovely!

 

·         If the breeder says you can’t have contact with either the dam or the sire.  BEWARE! If he says that either the sire, or the dam, is vicious, shy, or nervous – leave!

 

·         At least 65% of a puppy’s character and general nature is inherited from his parents!!! This means that if the “Cute” puppy that you are viewing has a “Nasty”, “Vicious”, or “Nervous” Mom or Dad, you could well end up with a whole heap of trouble as the “Cute” puppy grows to fill his parent’s shoes!

 

·         A reputable breeder does not advertise in “Junk Mail” type publications, nor does he have any need to advertise in the local newspaper.

 

·         He will already have a good reputation and people like your local vet, dog trainer, or dog-grooming parlour, will be able to refer you to him.

 

·         A reputable breeder should be able to give you valuable insight and information regarding his breed’s history and actual genetics/breeding. In other words he should be knowledgeable about his breed, its background, characteristics and specific behaviour traits. He should also have knowledge about his breeds specific genetic faults and needs.

 

·         A reputable breeder will give you contact addresses of pups that he has bred in the past and encourage you to interact with their owners. A reputable breeder will also have lifetime contact with the animals that he has bred in the past.

 

·         When looking for an ideal family dog, you should preferably look for a breeder who has the litter born and brought up, at least partly inside the house. This is so that you know that from an early age, the puppies are used to the various sounds and “goings on” in the home. This will produce a more confident, well-adjusted, socialised puppy. If you have young children, then look for a breeder who also has youngish children. Look at the behaviour of the breeder’s children!  If they are obnoxious brats – leave and do not purchase a puppy!

 

·         If the breeders can’t control their kids, the odds are that the kids will have teased the puppies and the dogs, and they could well end up highly-strung or nervous individuals due to these early poor interactions. Due to negative experiences these pups could also end up hating all children!

 

·         A good breeder keeps the dog’s environment, garden and whelping area, clean and free from any flies or other health hazards. All the dogs on the premises should be in good physical condition, with clean coats, and free of parasites both visual, such as fleas and ticks, and internal parasites such as worms. Often dogs with worms have rough coats in poor condition. When looking for a puppy, if the premises of the breeder do not meet with your standards – leave!

 

WHERE NOT TO PURCHASE A PUPPY

 

·         From any kind of Junk Mail type publication – no reputable breeder would ever consider letting their precious babies go through such a publication – reputable breeders have an approved list of prospective owners BEFORE they undertake a mating – breeding is expensive and not profit motivated

·         From a flea market or pet shop.  Many of these puppies are bred by unscrupulous “Puppy Farmers” who sell them to dealers who, in turn, unload onto the unsuspecting, gullible public!

·         From the side of the road. These dealers often buy from “Mills” or puppy farms. Unscrupulous “Puppy Farmers” often keep random bred dogs and purebred dogs. They often allow the dogs to inter-breed producing “mongrels”.   

·         The Puppy Farmers’ breeding stock is often kept in appalling conditions. Filthy cages with little or no shelter, and little food. Many deny even basic veterinary care and most of these pups are sickly, small and unhealthy.

·         Most of the bitches kept by “Puppy Farmers” are bred with every time they come into “season”, thus producing as many puppies as possible in order for the puppy farmer to make the most amount of money with the least input!

·         Many pet shops and flea markets are getting bad reputations as many of the puppies sold by them come from dubious sources.

 

 

WHY NOT GIVE THE “POOR” PUPPY A HOME?

It is natural to want to give a puppy a home because you feel sorry for it, especially if you know it has had a “bad” beginning. Our human maternal and paternal instincts want to nurture and protect.

 

However, by purchasing a puppy that has originated from a puppy farmer, you as an individual would be actively encouraging and supporting these unscrupulous parasites of society and helping them to make money.

 

I personally consider it “DIRTY MONEY” and believe that stricter regulations should be implemented to protect both the animals and the public. Until then, it is the public who, through education and common sense, should actively be encouraged to put them out of business!

 

THERE IS ONLY ONE SURE WAY TO DO THIS, DO NOT buy puppies from dubious sources!

 

When purchasing a puppy from dubious sources, there is no way of knowing the puppy’s’ background or early influences. Therefore, behaviourally, they might not be “sound”. You could be looking at serious future behavioural problems, from fear and anxiety to aggression.

 

As most of the puppies are not inoculated, they often spread disease. Some of these pups are reported to be sold drugged! Many of them are sickly and there have been numerous reports of puppies dying after being with a new family for only a few days. This is heartbreaking for both the children and Mom and Dad. Some dealers will actually give you another puppy (rarely cash) if the one dies within a certain period of time - and this is stated in a purchase agreement! 

 

How confident are they of their stock??????

 

Many of these puppies are bred from behaviourally “unsound” parents.  As the pup will inherit at least 65% of his parents’ character, what you see is not necessarily what you get! 

A large percentage of pups from these dealers end up as unsuitable pets suffering from various behavioural problems.

 

Most are breed rejects - dogs that would not be accepted by the respectable dog breeding fraternity and do not conform to registered breed standards. They are at risk of having inherited genetic health problems such as hip displacia, eye and ear problems and various other genetic based diseases.

 

Most of these pups are unregistered with the Kennel Union of SA, so that the genetics, both positive and negative, are completely unknown.

 

Now I am not advocating that everyone should rush out and only get purebred registered puppies. Many mixed-breed pups make wonderful companion animals and working dogs. But you must realise that it is a “pot luck” purchase. You will not even be able to judge what the pup will look like when it is a “grown-up” or accurately judge its future size! The advantages of buying a registered pup, from registered stock, from a registered “ethical” breeder, is that you, as the consumer, will know exactly what you are getting in size, shape conformation and character.

 

If you do not necessarily want a purebred dog with papers, then support your local SPCA or Rescue Organisation, and give one of their “Poor Stray’s” A Good Home!

In this way, you would be doing Dogdom a service, and saving a life!

 

Louise Thompson

Accredited Animal Behaviour Consultant & Professional Dog Trainer:   Accredited with the Animal Behaviour Consultants of SA (©®™).

Certificate of Companion Animal Behaviour (Faculty of Veterinary Science, Department of Ethology, University of Pretoria)

Certificate of Advanced Companion Animal Behaviour (Pretoria Technikon)

Member of (SAADOI) the SA Association of Dog Obedience Instructors