Behaviour & Learning Centre
082-890-0905 louthomp@mweb.co.za
pawsabilitiesbehaviourandlearning.blogspot.com
DO YOU NEED A DOG TRAINER? OR DO YOU NEED AN ANIMAL BEHAVIOUR CONSULTANT?
There is a vast difference between a dog trainer and an animal behaviour consultant. The aims of each one are quite different as is the methodology of learning and treatment/behaviour modification.
A simple way to figure out the difference is to think of the dog trainer as a teacher, and an animal behaviour consultant as someone who works through and finds solutions to problem behaviour issues and other doggy hang up’s!
If you had a toddler who was experiencing nightmares, you would not take him to a teacher for extra lessons – no, of course not, you would take him to a child psychologist!
The same goes for your dog – a good example is to realise that training classes are not suddenly going to cure your dog’s fear of thunder storms, or make him become best friends with every dog he meets. He needs to see a behaviour professional and undergo behaviour modification!
Dog trainers teach class. They provide handlers with the tools to be able to produce a trained dog. They usually work to a set curriculum with specific goals and an end aim.
A dog training class is NOT a suitable platform to resolve behaviour problems.
Some of the more common problems seen by animal behaviour consultants
| õ Aggression towards people or pets. | õ Anxiety / neurosis. |
| õ Self-mutilation. | õ Fighting or incompatibilities. |
| õ Digging or destructive chewing. | õ Escaping or gate bolting. |
| õ Excessive barking or howling. | õ Inappropriate toilet habits. |
| õ Tail chasing, spinning or shadow chasing. | õ Hyper sexuality, leg/object mounting. |
| õ Disobedience, excitability/hyperactivity, excessive jumping up, etc. | õ Fears or phobias including sound sensitivity and thunder phobia |
THE BEHAVIOUR CONSULTATION - WHAT TO EXPECT!
On the day of the appointment, the pet & family members will be seen at the consulting rooms, or occasionally, under special circumstances, the pet will be seen in the owner’s home, or for owners in outlying areas telephonic or e-mail consultations may be arranged.
When seen at the Paws Abilities consulting rooms, on consultation, the pet will be placed in a secure area, where observations will be made, (without the owners influence) whilst a full background and history is taken, and all problems being experienced are fully discussed.
After an in-depth evaluation, an immediate prognosis is given, followed by a brief oral outline of what is needed for the family to achieve a successful resolution. This is backed up with a full written report, detailing the step by step instructions needed for a successful resolution.
The cost varies according to time/location, etc, and an average of two hours is needed.
The fee includes: the consultation, a detailed written report, and telephonic back-up. A successful outcome depends largely on owner co-operation, compliance & the consistency of everyone who interacts, or has dealings with the dog/s.
DOG TRAINING CLASSES –WHAT TO EXPECT
PUPPY SCHOOL AND EARLY EDUCATION:
Educating you and your puppy is a vital part of forming a relationship between you and your puppy. It has been proven that puppies that attend good socialising and learning classes develop into more socially acceptable companion animals and are easier to teach later on in their adolescence. They also present with fewer behavioural problems later on in life. Puppies should begin to attend a reputable puppy socialising and learning group as soon as possible.
Most reputable schools accept pups one week after their first inoculation:
In the past pups were not accepted at training class until they were six months of age. Remember the stages of development. At six months of age, many dogs are in the middle of their “fear of new situations” stage of development – not a great time to start something new!
Owners were also discouraged from taking pups out for health reasons, often being told by professionals that they should wait until their pup’s last inoculation at about four months.
With regard to the health issue, new research from the USA and UK has proved that pups that are isolated from other animals have a lower immune resistance than pups that are exposed. The latter build up a far greater natural immunity! Another advantage of starting early is that if a good foundation is put down, both owner and pup avoid learning bad habits. Any possible problems are also detected early and are managed far sooner with greater success.
WHAT IS A PUPPY SCHOOL?
Puppy School is a place and time where you and your pup are educated. Your puppy learns to be a well-mannered, socially acceptable companion animal - a friend that enhances your life!
PUPPY SCHOOL IS NOT…..
A place where pups of any age indulge in wild unsupervised/unstructured play or are taught formal obedience training (that is only appropriate for a more mature dog).
THE VENUE
Make sure that the following are provided:
A secure area for pups to have free, safe, work and play
A large enough area for pups to play, but small enough for pups to feel secure.
An area that is preferably grassed, which aids in creating a calming atmosphere).
Plenty of shade and easily accessible fresh drinking water.
ATTENDANCE
All the family should be welcome (as should spectators and children) as long as they are well behaved!
WHAT OWNERS SHOULD BRING
The puppy, restrained on a flat soft collar and soft long leash.
Small "Soft Yummy Dog Treats" - highly palatable and easy to digest
Bowl for water & plastic packets to "scoop the poop".
Money (usually to be paid at first lesson).
Hat (for owner). Also, remember to wear comfortable old casual clothes and flat takkies or shoes (not sandals).
Dog brush & dog toys.
Current inoculation/vaccination certificate and a large sense of humour!
THE SCHOOL/INSTRUCTOR SHOULD PROVIDE/OFFER
· Enrolment form, which should state all relevant details of the pup i.e. inoculations/vaccinations and refer to the owner’s goals and expectations for the pup's future.
· Easily accessible water.
· Dustbin.
· First aid kit.
· Booklets/literature/hand-outs on all relevant problems from grooming and puppy care to common behaviour problems experienced by puppy owners.
· Referral to retail outlets for equipment, such as leads/collars/headcollars/toys and other basic doggie necessities, such as grooming equipment etc.
· Basic distraction/desensitisation equipment, i.e. umbrellas, bicycles, sacks, people in strange coats - things that pups should be exposed to during their everyday life.
· Various noises to expose pups to, either on tape or other simulation, i.e. small firecrackers, tapes of gunshot/storms or other "different" noises.
· Some everyday-type physical obstacles to manoeuvre around - i.e. steps, gates, drums, tyres, poles, ramps etc.
· Exposure to other animals, i.e. livestock, cats, fowls, horses, etc.
· Access to a safe "puppy friendly older dog" (role model.)
MINIMUM REQUIREMENTS OF INSTRUCTOR
· Knowledge of puppy development calendar and "critical stages" of canine development.
· Knowledge of breeds, and their particular characteristics, development, purpose and genetics.
· Knowledge of puppy health, care, hygiene and housing.
· Behavioural and training knowledge.
· Good communication skills.
· Experience in various disciplines of the dog sports.
· An open mind.
· A sense of humour.
LEARNING METHODS
· All learning should be "fun" for both pups and owners.
· Only kind, gentle and humane methods should be used.
· Positive reinforcement is the generally accepted way of modern training, for both puppies and dogs.
· No punishment or heavy-handed methods are acceptable. This includes check or choke chains, spike or electric collars, they should be considered torture tools!
CRITERIA OF GROUP/CLASS
· History and record-keeping is essential.
· Requirements and purpose/aims of course.
· Achievements, objectives and test.
· Duration of course.
· Weekly programme handouts or other forms of written material.
Care should be taken that the "CORRECT CHOICE" of puppy school is made. This is, after all, where your puppy's entire future character is to be moulded! You can even ask for a couple of references from previous puppy owners. Should you, as the concerned puppy owner, have any doubts or misgivings regarding a class, TRUST YOUR INSTINCTS & LEAVE!
FORMAL DOG OBEDIENCE SCHOOL:
This usually begins at about the age of five and a half, to six months of age, after an initial puppy school learning and socialising programme and in the beginning should be a continuation of early learning in puppy school. At this age, all learning should still be fun and mentally challenging, never putting the puppy under too much pressure.
Some schools are run by accredited animal behaviour consultants (see last page for contact details) Some ABC’s run “Specialist” Schools – concentrating on one or more disciplines. Many schools offer domestic and show obedience classes, and other various disciplines of dog sport and fun! Participation in most dog sports requires a certain amount of basic obedience training.
KINDS OF DOG ACTIVITIES:
Domestic obedience – All dogs should learn the basics of good manners and basic obedience such as walking to heel on a leash, sit, down, stand for examination, stay, and retrieve. This is not only for discipline, and control, but also to give the dog some mental and physical stimulation.
Dog training used to be really boring! Years ago training used to involve being marched up and down a field for an hour of military style heelwork! Not anymore! Nowadays classes should be fun and exciting for both dog and owner.
Newer sports are available at many schools, which can be competitive or just for fun and fitness, (of dog and owner!) These dog sports include:- Dog carting, flyball races, and dog jumping and agility even “heelwork to music” – dancing dogs!
Some of the above are incorporated into working trials, and other specialist competitions or sports.
At Paws Abilities we take it even further, with Life Skills Classes, Social Classes, and NEW Dog Sport Classes which combine various disciplines to develop new, exciting dog games for dogs and owners; Rally obedience; Target Recalls; Retrieve and Scent Games (including Handler Hideout and Water Retrieves) Scent games such as Ball Pond, Doggy Basket Ball and even Cross Country – to name but a few of the games that can be played with dogs!
All of these activities give your dog something valuable to do and to work his brain and keep him mentally and physically active and occupied. A dog that works is a happy contented dog.
HINTS FOR FINDING A GOOD DOG TRAINING SCHOOL:
Many dog training schools cater for dogs from puppyhood through to adult dog training.
If you are unsure of the quality of the dog training you might be receiving, contact the ABC of SA Secretary who will refer you to a reputable school in your area:
WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN A GOOD DOG SCHOOL:
Winning prizes is not the most important thing to look for. Don’t be fooled by the trophies on the wall! Some trainers need their students to win at all costs, and this sometimes can be at the expense of the dog’s well being!
Before enrolling in a class, visit the school first WITHOUT YOUR DOG, (as an observer), and note the following;-
WHEN CHECKING OUT A DOG TRAINING SCHOOL:
· Do the dogs look happy and relaxed? Are the people friendly and sociable?
· Is everyone shouting at his or her dogs – screaming, “Leave” and “Foui”? Dogs are not deaf - their hearing is considerably better than ours – why do people shout? All shouting does, is to teach the dog to ignore the owner!
· Is there a lot of dog on dog aggression? In a good dog school aggression is never permitted to develop or escalate and early intervention by instructors defuses aggression before it develops.
· Can the school refer you to people who have completed their training at the school for references
· Does the instructor enquire if you are experiencing any problems at home with the dog, and either offers appropriate advice and/or refers the student to an appropriate professional?
· What kind of equipment are the handlers using?
· Would you consider the training equipment cruel? Spike/pinch collars and even Check/choke chains if used incorrectly can cause severe damage to muscle and tendons and even the spine of a dog.
· Some schools routinely use electric shock collars! In my opinion - this kind of torture equipment should have gone out with the Spanish Inquisition!
· Yanking dogs off their feet, and jerking them around and/or even hanging them up in tree’s (by the choke chain & leash) until they lose consciousness (yes people actually do this, and condone it, telling you it is training!) In my book, this is not learning, it is abuse!
The sadist’s, who tell you this is the way to train dogs, should find another occupation.
WHAT YOU SHOULD BE LOOKING FOR:
· A friendly fun environment for both the dog and handler
· Humane, gentle training methods, either using food/toy gentling motivation.
· Positive reinforcement methods are the only way to train a confident, sound, stable, dog.
· Minimum or no aggression between the dogs. The trainer should have enough experience, Never to permit aggression to develop in class.
· Difficult dogs should have private sessions and behaviour modification (with a qualified behavioural consultant) before they are permitted to work in a class.
· No instructor or handler should ever lose his temper with either a dog or handler, but should always show empathy and understanding of both dog and handler problems.
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