Paws News December 2008

Paws Abilities Behaviour & Learning Centre
Newsletter Number – 25 - DECEMBER 2008


Well Christmas is upon us once again – I would like to take this opportunity to wish all our Christian friends a Happy Christmas and a Prosperous New Year. I would also like to take this opportunity to thank my colleagues at the Paws Abilities Behaviour & Learning Centre.
I think – actually I KNOW – that we have the best instructors in the whole world. Mandy, Siobhan, Rose and Maureen – You Guys are the ABSOLUTE BEST. Over the last several decades, I have trained and instructed at many different Clubs and Private Schools, and I can honestly say that I have NEVER met such an amazing group of individuals.
Our instructors really go the extra mile. Never afraid to try something new (and will always find a gentle, kind method that works for each individual dog) and most importantly each one of them ALWAYS puts the dogs first. This is the first and foremost aspect of working with animals!!! (First do no harm!) I am blessed indeed to have the honor of working with such a talented, and absolutely bloody fantastic group of special people. A humble Thank You To Each and Every One of You – just know that you are truly appreciated and I love you all.
Apart from our wonderful instructors – I think we also have the best students in the world and I would like to thank all our loyal handlers and their fantastic dogs for their support throughout 2008. You guys have supported us through thick and thin. You have put your hands in your pocket whenever we need support for one of our charity events, helped us repair and renovate equipment. Given us much needed moral support (often). Helped to home and foster many animals in need. Put together demonstrations for needy causes and so much more that I just don’t have the space to mention. I would like to thank each and every one of you, for your love, support and most of all your caring attitude towards our best friends – our dogs! A hearty thank you to you all!

PAWS FOR LAUGHTER
This is really one of my absolute favourites – it says it all!
EXCERPTS FROM A DOG'S DIARY – FOLLOWED BY EXCEPTS FROM A CAT’S DIARY

Day number 180
08:00 am - OH BOY! DOG FOOD! MY FAVOURITE!
09:30 am - OH BOY! A CAR RIDE! MY FAVOURITE!
9:40 am - OH BOY! A WALK! MY FAVOURITE!
10:30 am - OH BOY! A CAR RIDE! MY FAVOURITE!
11:30 am - OH BOY! DOG FOOD! MY FAVOURITE!
12:00 noon - OH BOY! THE KIDS! MY FAVOURITE!
01:00 PM - OH BOY! THE YARD! MY FAVOURITE!
04:00 PM - OH BOY! THE KIDS! MY FAVOURITE!
05:00 PM - OH BOY! DOG FOOD! MY FAVOURITE!
05:30 PM - OH BOY! MOM! MY FAVOURITE!

Day number 181
08:00 am - OH BOY! DOG FOOD! MY FAVOURITE!
09:30 am - OH BOY! A CAR RIDE! MY FAVOURITE!
09:40 am - OH BOY! A WALK! MY FAVOURITE!
10:30 am - OH BOY! A CAR RIDE! MY FAVOURITE!
11:30 am - OH BOY! DOG FOOD! MY FAVOURITE!
12:00 noon - OH BOY! THE KIDS! MY FAVOURITE!
01:00 PM - OH BOY! THE YARD! MY FAVOURITE!
04:00 PM - OH BOY! THE KIDS! MY FAVOURITE!
05:00 PM - OH BOY! DOG FOOD! MY FAVOURITE!
05:30 PM - OH BOY! MOM! MY FAVOURITE!

EXCERPTS FROM A CAT'S DIARY
DAY 752
My captors continue to taunt me with bizarre little dangling objects. They dine lavishly on fresh meat, while I am forced to eat dry cereal. The only thing that keeps me going is the hope of escape, and the mild satisfaction I get from ruining the occasional piece of furniture. Tomorrow I may eat another house-plant.




DAY 761
Today my attempt to kill my captors by weaving around their feet while they were walking almost succeeded, must try this at the top of the stairs. In an attempt to disgust and repulse these vile oppressors, I once again induced myself to vomit on their favourite chair...must try this on their bed.

DAY 765
Decapitated a mouse and brought them the headless body, in an attempt to make them aware of what I am capable of, and to try to strike fear into their hearts. They only cooed and condescended about what a good little cat I was...Hmmm. Not working according to plan.

DAY 768
I am finally aware of how sadistic they are. For no good reason I was chosen for the water torture. This time however it included a burning foamy chemical called "shampoo." What sick minds could invent such a liquid. My only consolation is the small piece of thumb skin still stuck between my teeth.

DAY 771
There was some sort of gathering of their accomplices. I was placed in solitary throughout the event. However, I could hear the noise and smell the foul odour of the glass tubes they call "beer". More importantly I overheard that my confinement was due to MY power of "allergies." Must learn what this is and how to use it to my advantage.

DAY 774
I am convinced the other captives are flunkies and maybe snitches. The dog is routinely released and seems more than happy to return. He is obviously a half-wit. The bird on the other hand has got to be an informant, and speaks with them regularly. I am certain he reports my every move. Due to his current placement in the metal room
his safety is assured. But I can wait, it is only a matter of time.


This wonderful sign, hangs up at the
Paws Abilities Dog Training Grounds in Benoni
And I believe is taken very seriously!!!!!


ATTENTION ALL PAWS ABILITIES DOG TRAINING STUDENTS!

The following are NOT PERMITTED
on the Training Grounds.

Please ensure that they are deposited (for safekeeping) at the gate!

Ø Your Ego and any Self-Consciousness
Ø Your last shred of Dignity and Self-Respect
Ø All Inhibitions and Shyness
Ø All and any Neurosis
Ø And …. any other particular “Hang Up’s” or excess baggage you might carry around with you!

You are welcome to collect them at the gate as you leave the grounds after training.

YOUR CO-OPERATION IS APPRECIATED

AND YOUR DOG WILL THANK YOU!

Paws Abilities behaviour & learning centre
LOVES DOGS
We even
“LIKE”
some of their owners!

Submissive Urination
Nancy: I have rescued a beautiful pointer mix - I don't know what her exact history was but she was about five months old when I rescued her and she was afraid of everything. She's come a long way and the only issue she has now is that when she gets nervous and she's a little unsure of something, she urinates; it's not out of excitement, it's out of nerves.

Dr. Dog: It's what we normally call submissive urination. Some dogs urinate excitably, some submissively as this sounds like and some, unfortunately, both. There are several things you can do, but first of all, did you give her a new name when you got her?

Nancy: Yes, she had no name.

Dr. Dog: Ok, number one, never use her name with a reprimand - EVER. And make sure no one does.

Number two: When you deal with her, especially in greeting, NEVER lean over her. Never. She sounds like a very modest size dog, if she's a pointer mix. We're not talkin' about a great dane here.

Also, never pet her on the back of the neck--never. And never rub her belly, especially while she's lying down. IF she's standing or sitting, you can rub it as much as you please because they like it and so do we, but NEVER rub her belly while she's on her belly or on her side.

And, again, be careful of the petting. Of course, you can touch the back of her neck when you're doing things like grooming, looking for ticks, fleas, etc. but don't use it as a point of affection. Don't reach down and touch the top of her head and the back of her neck as an affectionate or greeting gesture. On the contrary, squat down so you are at her level and go up from beneath and scratch her on the throat and chin and chest, not down on the head and neck from above.

Also, be careful of treats. When she pants, if she gets a treat happening right out of the sky, this is a great thing to encourage more panting because the way their brains work, they associate your input with their last act. One of the reasons dogs pant is to display relaxation. So when
everything is cool in their world at the moment, panting is very common for them.

If she is reinforced for committing that act, she will get a little more confident because her relaxation and comfort level is being reinforced. On the contrary, if she suddenly shuts her mouth or gets very excited or gives you that hang-dog wimpy look, don't reprimand it, but walk away. Just get
up and leave.

If she wimps out so to speak and you leave, she can't help but learn that her submissive gesture chased you away. That's a very effective way of discouraging another repeat of the act, but it doesn't contribute to the problem because it is so totally passive on your part. Also, don't make the mistake of verbally reprimanding when you leave, just leave.

Another step, make sure she has to "earn" everything she gets from a human in the household--whether it's her meals, her treats, a grooming session, a petting period, a massage, whatever it is that she enjoys, a walk--whatever, make her "earn" it. By that I mean don't just walk up to her with her leash and clip it on and take her out; call her to you. If she's going to get a meal, have her obey a command to get it. The reason is--just as with humans and so many other mammals--if the subject thinks they contributed to the reinforcer--the reward event--they have to feel better about themselves.

If you just hand it to her, she had nothing to do with that. But if she had to "earn" what she's getting, she is going to feel differently about it--every sentient being always does. Also, random good does as much harm as random bad. In other words, if for no reason at all she just gets love because you've got the 20 seconds, you're not busy at the moment, you really care about her, so while you're walking by you stop by and give her affection, if she did not have to do anything to get that, you are literally teaching her that everything she does is getting rewarded. Well, that doesn't give her any motive to build confidence.
HOW TO PET A DOG
I wonder how many people will see the title of this article and skip over it, thinking "I already know how to pet a dog!" In reality, many people know how to reach out and touch a dog, but few are aware of how to pet a dog so that the dog actually enjoys it. Dogs are social animals and domestication has made them very dependent on us, but that doesn't mean that every dog loves to be patted and pet by strangers any more than we want every stranger on the street to give us a hug and a kiss.
I see person after person reach out to pet my dog, Parker, on the head. And even though Parker pulls away and avoids the person, they continue to try and pet him.
If you want to impress a new dog and convince him that you are a really great human, follow these basic rules:
RULE #1 - Never approach a dog first. Always let the dog approach you, no matter how friendly it looks. Why? Because this allows the dog to interact with you on his terms, which is going to put you high on his list of cool humans. Many dog owners are amazed at how quickly their shy dog takes to me. The only trick is that I sit back and let the dog decide when and how to interact with me.
RULE #2 - Don't crowd his space. We love dogs so much that we have a tendency to want to get really close when we're petting...as close as possible. But imagine meeting a new person and they immediately bent over the top of you, put their hand on your head and brought their face right up to yours. Would you feel at ease with that person?
No reaching over the head. Reaching over their head is intimidating. Dogs much prefer when pets come from underneath, such as a soft rub under the chin or on their cheek.
Stay out of their face. What is it that makes us think that dogs love having a stranger get really close to their face? Do we like it? No! A simple rhyme for children holds just as true for adults: Two feet of space can save your face.
Don't bend over the dog. It is much better to kneel down and turn your body slightly sideways to a dog. You would be amazed at how many dogs turn to mush when you offer them this polite greeting.
Don't stick your hand in their face. I know that somewhere along the line the advice was given to present your hand to a dog so they can sniff it. Considering dogs have 250 million scent receptors compared to our 5 million, they can smell your hand just as easily if it remains at your side. Letting the dog decide how and when to approach you can make all the difference.
RULE #3 - Don't try to convince a shy dog that you are friendly. How many times have you seen a human pursue a shy dog, while repeating "It's okay, don't be shy"? Well-meaning dog lovers have a hard time with this one. Our fragile human egos just can't seem to take it when man's best friend doesn't immediately fall in love with us. The truth is, the more you pursue a shy dog, the more it convinces them that you are scary...and quite rude. Back off, discontinue eye contact and give him a chance to get to know you on his terms.
RULE #4 - Just because he's sniffing you, doesn't mean he wants to be touched. Sniffing is the dog's way of getting more information about you. Let the dog sniff you and then see where he goes from there. Does he sniff you and then back away or does he sniff you and then start with the whole body wiggle?
Dogs who really love to be pet by strange humans don't keep it a secret. They come in very close, lean into you, wiggling their whole body with their tail. Their eyes look "soft" and even a little squinty, and you may just see that sweet little grin.
RULE #5 - When you do pet the dog, pet him once then stop and see what happens. If he really enjoyed what you just did, he will move closer or give some other indication that your affections are welcome! Finally, if you are the owner of a dog who is shy or just a little reserved with strangers, it is up to you to help him by running interference from over-zealous dog lovers. Don't be afraid to stop people from accosting your dog. The more negative interactions your dog has with people, the closer you get to having a real behaviour problem on your hands. And if they think you are rude for not letting them pet their dog, who cares? You and your dog are just fine without them.

A CHILD SAFE DOG – KIDS NEED TO BE TRAINED TOO!
Young children need to be taught the correct responses to dogs and puppies. Far too many children are bitten and maimed each year, and in most cases it could have been prevented by education of both puppy and child. Children tend to give off all the “wrong signals” to dogs and no young child should ever be left unsupervised with any dog – no matter how dependable he is. All children should be educated from an early age how to interpret basic dog body language, and warning signals, and should be taught basic common sense rules, when around and interacting with dogs.


Supervising your kids and dogs, is vital to avoid both the puppy and the child learning the wrong lessons. In fact at this early stage – especially with young children, the child will need as much training as the puppy

If you do not have children of your own – borrow a “tame, well-behaved” child from the neighbourhood. The child must be strictly supervised and not permitted to scare or hurt the pup either intentionally or by accident, both must be watched carefully. Introduce one “tame” child at a time, and then when the foundation is laid for positive interaction – gradually over a period of time build up slowly to several “tame/well trained” children to interact with the pup.

TIPS FOR SUPERVISING KIDS/FRIENDS/FAMILY
· Never allow any children to play with dogs or puppies unsupervised – no matter how reliable the dog or pup may be.
· Young children should never be permitted to carry dogs or young puppies.
· Do not allow children to tease or torment puppies. The pups will associate pain and discomfort with the children and as a result may come to learn to hate all children.
· No teasing games or roughhousing ever!!!
· Children should also not be permitted to carry puppies – if a pup is dropped or inadvertently hurt it could affect his perception of children for ever!
· Children should also never be allowed to hug a dog, as the body language is threatening – especially when a dog is resting or sleeping.
· Patting is also not a good idea, rather teach the children how to stroke a dog gently following the line of the fur.
· Play/interaction with children should be a rewarding experience for both child and puppy.
· The pup should never be taught roughhouse or competitive play, especially when around children - as this would teach him – by example – that it is acceptable to use his power and strength against humans.
· Rough play teaches the pup all the wrong examples and sends him all the wrong signals (developing “prey” drive and hunting instincts)
· Rough play also sets a bad example and teaches the pup that it is OK to be rowdy and rough when around people!
· Encourage the kids (and dad) to play games that promote co-operation and control, and encourage positive traits in the pet. Games such as “Fetch” or “Hide and Seek” etc.
· Encourage children to play productive calm controlled games, as described in earlier articles.
· Do not allow children to play chasing games – these encourage all the wrong instincts in dogs – and develop the pups “prey drive” which in the future could have disastrous results.
· Do not feed pups “ad lib”. Pups need to develop an owner dependence on food. Food should be put down for 5 minutes only, and if the pup does not finish within that time, it should be removed after 5 minutes until the next meal.
· Even if the pup only begins to eat after 4 and ½ minutes – it should still be removed after 5 and then the pup should only be offered food at the next correct mealtime.
· Get all your visitors to examine and touch the pup – work yourself on parts of the pup that he finds distasteful. Start with a section that the pup finds acceptable and work forward from there
· Make certain that you, as the “respected leader” initiate contact and interaction with the pup.
· It has been proved that the less “eye contact” one has with a dog, the more influence you have over the animal.
· Set rules and make sure that you keep them, always keeping your temper and with a high degree of patience.
· Say what you mean and mean what you say – even if it means gently physically helping the dog/pup to comply. Once compliance has been achieved he should still be praised and/or rewarded.
· Reward and praise all acceptable behaviour and ignore and/or distract any negative or unwanted behaviour.
· Think of how long it has taken for a bad habit to develop – it could take the same amount of time to eliminate that bad habit!
· Always go through doorways and openings before your pup, - the leader or alpha dog always leads –not follows.
· Try to expose your puppy to as many different and a wide variety of experiences as you can. This will help to develop his self-confidence and thus produce a more stable animal.
· Dr Platzhund from Talk Radio 702 says “Overindulgence by owners creates insecure and dogs that are over-dependant on us”. These dogs are not happy. Dogs need to learn that it is not possible to be with us for 24 hours per day.
· Give the puppy some “Time Out” - starting with a few minutes per day and gradually over a period of time the pup will learn that he is able to cope without you in his presence all the time.
· Make sure the pup is socialised with both his own kind and an assortment of humans from an early age – Puppy learning and socialising groups are an essential part of your puppy’s education.
· Ensure that his learning continues – he can begin formal obedience training from about six months of age! Remember to use it don’t lose it!
· Make sure that your pup is taken out for regular walks in different locations to increase his tolerance and confidence, and to give him appropriate mental and physical stimulation.






This little gem was sent to me by a friend in the UK and was written by a dog training friend of hers.
Can’t for the life of me, find the authors name (sorry guys)

SURVEY ON CHOKE CHAINS from the author
My survey extended to 51 pages on completion so the following is a shortened version containing most of the important points discovered.

My interest in this survey stemmed from my original use of Choke Chains on my own Golden Retrievers, which I soon stopped once I realized that the chain was removing hair from my dogs necks. At the same time, I had taken up agility and soon realized that I had to maintain control over my dogs by voice and encouragement alone. I was further puzzled by seeing handlers who had good verbal control over their dogs during competition and yet slipping a choke chain over their dogs necks at the end of the run.

My study was therefore to find out if there were recorded injuries to dogs caused by these chains being misused, and to gather the views of as many differing bodies as I could. I therefore contacted The Kennel Club, The National Canine Defence League, The Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (RSPCA), Veterinary Practices, Trainers, Pet Shop Outlets and Chain Manufacturers/Distributors.

After badgering The Kennel Club and the RSPCA several times I managed to establish that neither have any particular policy on the use of Choke Chains, and that both consider they are relevant pieces of training
equipment, if used "by experienced handlers". (Surely, that statement in itself constitutes a policy.)

The National Canine Defence League does not use choke chains in any of their kennels and advises against their use when re-homing dogs to new owners.

From 16 Veterinary Practices, I received 13 responses and seven confirmed recorded cases of injured dogs caused by choke chains. This number in the Norwich area alone would amount to hundreds on a national scale if this were the average. Add to that the ones that never are brought to the attention of a veterinarian. Almost all the Practices agreed that they would advise against the use of chains if there were confirmed cases. None recommended their use.

Most of the trainers I contacted do not use chains but 2 recommended their use, with one recommending their use on untrained dogs. One trainer advised that they should be banned altogether after nearly losing one of his own dogs through strangulation when a choke chain locked. Only one agreed they should only be used by experienced handlers, which I personally found disturbing. Seven thought it might be a good idea to add a warning label to each chain at the point of sale.

Pet shop outlets seem more interested in the till takings but agreed they may consider displaying "warning information" about choke chains only being used by experienced handlers if injury proof existed. The two distributors I contacted apparently are not aware of any problem but one of them decided to consider adding a warning into its standard label.

My survey also brought me into contact with Robin Walker, a Veterinary and Dog Behaviourist, who had an article on this very subject printed in The Veterinary Record in March 1999 showing evidence of injury to dogs.

He listed:
õ Injured ocular vessels
õ Tracheal and oesophageal damage
õ Severely sprained necks
õ Cases of fainting
õ Transient foreleg paralysis
õ Recurrent laryngeal nerve paralysis
õ Hind leg ataxia
õ Radiographs showed misalignment of the cervical vertebrae and in some cases
õ Horner's Syndrome was diagnosed. I personally suffer from this condition. The injury was caused by a suddenly, but in my case voluntary, movement of the neck which has left the nerve supply to one eye damaged, resulting in occasional pain to the eye and headaches. The injury is not visible to another person so it would not appear to show in a dog without a radiograph.
õ Some of the conditions described above were at the time known as "Woodhouse Neck".

My Conclusions
Obviously, the most dangerous chains are the long link chains. These can lock in the tightened position if one of the links turns at 90 degrees and jams across the opening in the end ring. Secondly, all chains would appear to be dangerous if used on an untrained dog, which is most likely to pull.

Further stress is then put on the dog by the chain tightening and in some cases, the dog then starts to struggle. This situation in the hands of an inexperienced handler is obviously likely to lead to injury. There are obviously also ideal situations where a chain is used correctly and the trained dog responds correctly.



However, why the necessity to use a chain on a trained dog which should be responding to voice command?

Most of the injuries must be caused before dogs ever get to training classes and before the correct guidance is given to the new owner. Therefore, if we are concerned for general dog welfare and not just for the ones in the training classes, I can see no alternative but for some legislation to be put into place. Unfortunately, the Kennel Club and the RSPCA who between them control almost the total registration and welfare of dogs is the United Kingdom cannot see that their may be a problem!


Ed’s NOTE – OK guys, by now, you all probably know my stance on this one. I am totally and completely and equivocally (can’t find enough strong words!) AGAINST the use of choke chains, pinch collars, electric collars – in fact, any training method or equipment that could cause pain or discomfort to a dog. The evidence against choke chains has been around for a long time – my question is - WHY HAS NOTHING BEEN DONE ABOUT IT!

At Paws Abilities – for many years we have championed the use of gentle, reward and fun based learning methods for all dog training disciplines and yes – I admit it - It has become somewhat of a crusade for us. That is because we see such positive results that can be achieved without bully tactics.

Many “old school” dog trainers, suggest that the only way to control difficult dogs is through the use of these torture tools – THIS IS A LIE! Abet, generally propagated out of pure ignorance (or a lack of desire to change) There are many ways to resolve issues with problem dogs without having to use tools that should have gone out with the Spanish Inquisition. See out Paws Abilities School Rules for info on how problem dogs are managed.

At Paws Abilities no choke chains are ever permitted on the field, EVER! No exceptions! We have had various dogs of large sizes – many of whom when joined had various “issues” – (some were indeed uncontrollable) however, all of which have always been adequately controlled without having to resort to pain and torture methods! In fact, we usually confiscate all choke chains that appear on dogs on registration! (It does rather embarrass new handlers, though, it often gives us a laugh, judging their reactions) ( naughty, naughty us!)

My personal view is that choke chains are GREAT – FOR PADLOCKING GARDEN GATES. (we have them everywhere at the school, each and every gate has a catch lock held together with a choke chain) I can honestly not think of any other use for them!

Lets face it - the “old-school” - “rug & plug” perpetuators of torture, need to CATCH A WAKE UP, and join us in the twentieth century.

As a matter of interest (and here is my point!) – in the Animal Protection Act, there is a clause, stating something to the effect that, it is an offence to attach any device to an animal that could cause discomfort or pain – Therefore, I think we also need to know where National Council of SPCA’s and the individual SPCA societies stand in this regard.

I will contact the powers that be at the SA National Council of SPCA’s see what there stance is, and (if any) plans to take these facts into account and report back as soon as I have any information.


PAWS ABILITIES SCHOOL RULES:

Ed’s Note: After “sprouting” on the previous page. I thought it a good idea for you to all know what our basic rules are. The Paws Abilities School rules below, are strictly enforced by all the instructors.

1. Handlers are expected to arrive at training at least 15 minutes prior to class in order to take their dog for a slow stroll, give him a toilet opportunity (a full bowel is not conducive to learning) a good sniff and a chance to settle down. Handlers arrive late to class will not be permitted to join a class until this has been done.

2. No socialising of the dogs is permitted during class – handlers are welcome (and we encourage them) to stay after training, to permit their dogs to socialise. Dogs must learn the difference between work and play. During class, the only play that should be permitted is play learning or structured play, between handler and dog. This is to aid in the learning process and goes towards making the handler more “valuable”, and promoting a healthy human/canine relationship.

3. As all learning is through the “building block” approach, all handlers are expected to perform approximately three to five minutes homework per day, in order to prepare them for the following week’s lesson. This does not have to be formal homework, but handlers are encouraged to put into practice what they have learnt in class, in their daily routines. There is no excuse for not being able to perform a couple of minutes homework a day!

4. If a student is unable to attend a class – they are expected to inform their instructor in advance.



5. All training methods must be utilising positive reinforcement: No harsh treatments of dogs will be permitted: All training equipment must be approved by instructors: No equipment that could be considered inhumane or painful to the dog may be used. No check chains, pinch or electric collars – no exceptions!

6. At Paws Abilities, the collar and leash are a means merely to prevent the dog from leaving the grounds. No yanking or pulling of leashes is allowed. Handlers will be educated how to train their dogs without these “bully tactics” being necessary.

7. With “difficult” dogs, alternative methods will be found or the problem solved via a private behaviour consultation or private individual lessons, until the handler possess a level of control, where the dog would not disrupt a class or pose any danger to other dogs or handlers or the public.

8. All training must be conducted in a calm and quiet manner at all times – No screaming or yelling at dogs is allowed: Handlers are to conduct themselves as good role models for their animals – calm handler/calm dog: Commands or instructions to dogs should be given in a soft, calm, happy tone. No bully tactics allowed!

9. During training class, all dogs are to be kept on leash unless told otherwise by instructors:

10. Handlers are expected to clean up after their dogs have toileted – packets are available. Handlers failing to “Scoop the Poop” will be fined! (the money goes to an animal charity) This is for the health and safety of all our dogs. Various internal parasites can be rapidly transmitted through faeces – oesophagus worm can be fatal!

11. No bitches in season are permitted onto the grounds:

12. When on the grounds, All Pit Bull Terriers shall wear a full muzzle at all times – NO EXCEPTIONS!

13. Aggressive dogs not under control will NOT be permitted to join in a class until the animal is under reasonable control. Individual or private sessions (or where indicated, a full behaviour consultation with out accredited animal behaviourist) will be arranged

14. SMILING AND HAVING A GOOD TIME WITH YOUR DOG IS COMPULSORY

Should any student experience any problems with their dog - please discuss this with their instructor or our school director who will be able to advise and assist the handler further.

Ed’s Note:
OK so that is off my chest. I must confess that I haven’t read the rules for ages.
Are they a tad “pro dog” and (just a trifle) anti-human?????

If anyone can add to our golden dog school rules – please give me a shout. I would love your input!


AN INTERVIEW WITH LOUISE
Q and A – common doggy questions. Taken from an interview with Louise which appeared in a Natal newspaper. (Damn it – must be my age – can’t remember which paper – could have been the Daily Mirror??)

1) Why does a dog chase his tail?
Dogs do this for various reasons among them being:-
When they are young pups and taken away from their littermates (especially if this occurs at too young an age) it is a form of play to alleviate boredom and the lack of companionship. Unfortunately, this is often perceived to be amusing by the humans, who actively encourage the behaviour.

Long term this can have serious implications, as if the dog is not provided with adequate mental and physical stimulation, stress levels become heightened and one of the behaviour problems that can occur is that the dog can develop what is called stereotypical behaviour (repeated patterns of behaviour for no cause or reason) similar to human OCD (obsessive compulsive behaviour) In severe cases medical treatment is necessary (anti anxiety medication etc) accompanied with behaviour modification and long term therapy is needed.

This problem often has a genetic cause, and most commonly seen in Bullterriers and Staffordshire Terriers. Just another reason to obtain a dog from a reputable breeder and not the pet shop, side of the road or a flea market. 65% of a dogs basic character is inherited from its parents. Thus when choosing a puppy, what you see, is not necessarily what you get!



2) Why does a dog bury his bones, or toys?
Often caused (again) by boredom – it can also be connected to many problems including hording (saving food for later) hormones (pregnant bitches often horde) and possessive behaviour, due to competition, and of course some dogs just “dig” digging! Burying food is also often closely linked to natural dog (and wild dog) behaviour.

Where after the pack have made a “Kill” the carcass is sometimes buried to prevent other predators from stealing their food “Stash”. This is sometimes necessary for the survival of the pack in lean times. Burying valuables is a natural behaviour.
3) Why does a dog bark back at his owner when the owner shouts him to reprimand him when
he has done something wrong?
Dogs are hierarchal pack animals. In a pack you either lead or follow. Humans think and act in human terms and values. As hierarchal pack animals – dogs think in dog! People unfortunately treat their pet dogs like little people in fur coats, which is very confusing to dogs (confusion causes stress!)

We have different values and different ways of communicating – thus often the message becomes misinterpreted or conflicting (from the dogs point of view) Now in a pack the higher ranking dog (the alpha) NEVER sends a conflicting message to a subordinate. It just does not happen. So when we silly humans do this, the dog becomes confused.

For example:- Mary calls her dog to her. She leans forward (which is what most humans do when they call their dog) Now, dogs communicate firstly with body language, facial expression and lastly vocalizing. To a dog, a human leaning forward is a dominant threatening body posture.

So the dog is being sent two distinctly opposing messages
1. Come here
2. Go away – I am threatening you

Logically it is like telling the dog to “come here and go away” at the same time! No wonder they get confused and don’t listen to us! This occurs so often I believe that it is a major cause of many behaviour problems with animals. I call it a “species gap”, rather like the generation gap. One of the reasons that dogs bark back at their owners is confusion.

There are of course numerous other reasons, one being the dog is challenging the owner, another being the dog sees the owner as being excited and wants to join in. In his mind the owner is barking too, so something exciting must be about to happen! Owners should be good role models for their dogs. Dogs often “mirror” their environment and family: Calm household / calm dogs”. Abusive household / aggressive or neurotic dog or in the case of my home – mad household / mad dogs ……

4) Why does a dog constantly slobber all over the person that’s playing with him/her?
Often this is genetic – with certain breeds being more prone to salivating than others. Usually the ones with large lips and cheeks. Another reason is that dogs, especially ones who are kept as “yard dogs” excluded from family interaction, only get attention at feed times. Thus they associate the owner with a meal, thus the brain stimulates the gland associated with saliva.

This was the basic Pavlov theory, who did research on early animal behaviour. He rang a buzzer each and every time a group of dogs were fed. After a short time he discovered that the mere sound of the buzzer would evoke salivation from the dogs, even if the food bowel was not in sight. This is called “classical conditioning” and is a reflex action. It boils down to:-

1 Unconditioned stimulus (visual stimulus) (food) -- behavioural response (reflex) (saliva)
2. Conditioned stimulus (buzzer) + unconditioned stimulus (food) – behavioural response (saliva)
3. Conditioned stimulus (neural stimulus) (buzzer) – behavioural response (reflex) (saliva)

The second stage has to be repeated often enough to reach stage three. The unconditioned stimulus, food, is a primary reinforcer for the behavioural response, and the conditioned stimulus, the buzzer is a secondry reinforcer. Classical conditioning tends to create a quicker behavioural response.

This can also have dramatic negative results for example:-
A dog has a painful experience – whilst simultaneously the family’s young blond daughter is present. It is possible that the dog will forever associate blond girl children with his trauma, and this could negatively affect the relationship for ever!
5) Why does a dog bark every time his owner leaves the yard?
Dogs learn to “habituate” and “read” human behaviour very quickly as it is the basis (body language and postures) of their communication systems. Barking as the owner leaves can have many causes such as:-
a mild form of separation anxiety i.e. not being able to cope in the owners absence or an over-dependence (emotionally) on the owner.


Excitement (mixed communication signals) at the prospect of a game or walk. The dog might not understand that the car is taking their owner away. Or the dog could resent the car – which is the means that his owner is taken away each day. Separation anxiety is often identified by destructive behaviour – sometimes directed at the car!
6) What should the owner do?
Punishment will make it worse. As this would be associated with stress, punishment would cause more stress and only heighten the anxiety level – thus many dogs present with destructive behaviour as a symptom of anxiety. Most owners need the professional guidance of an accredited animal behaviour consultant to guide them through a behaviour modification programme.


WELFARE CHRISTMAS!
Take a minute out to think about those animals who are less fortunate than all of our spoilt babies!

I would like EVERYONE to spare a thought for all the animals who currently housed in welfare organisations. Their plight is serious! All welfare organisations, at this time of the year are taking seriously strain. EVERYWHERE IS FULL! All the shelters are overflowing at the seams, the SPCA’s are full. the foster families are full. The breed rescue societies are full. The sanctuaries are full! It is the same story all over the country. Everywhere is FULL, FULL, FULL, - IT IS TRAGIC!

My heart also goes out to those people working in welfare at this time of the year. We not only need to think about the animals, we also need to think about the staff and volunteers who perform such selfless jobs. Human resources are stretched to the limit. Tempers must be running short – (I know I would be rude if I worked under those circumstances) there are just too many pets and not enough homes!

Apart from the continual plugging and encouraging each and every pet owner to STERILISE all dogs and bitches – and in this we should all be relentless. There is other things we can do to lesson the load. Please support your local welfare or shelter wherever you can. A cash donation. A bag of food. Some chewies to keep the kennel dogs occupied (hooves, leather chews are great) Your time!!! – Just to spend a bit of time giving the animals in kennels some attention. If everyone does something, WE CAN MAKE A DIFFERENCE! Anyone wanting articles of the clinical advantages of sterilisation – just drop me a line and you are welcome to print them out and distribute wherever you can.

JOIN BRAKPAN SPCA FOR CHRISTMAS CAROLS! Brakpan SPCA are having a Carol’s by candlelight evening this Friday (19th December) if you live in the area support them and take a gift of a bag of food or/and some chew items to keep the kennelled dogs occupied whilst they are there. Contact Phillip on (011) 743 2196 or visit the Brakpan SPCA at 96 Denne Road, Witpoort. (Candles and hymn sheets will be on sale)


Well that’s about it for now. I would like to take this opportunity to wish all our Paws Abilities, student, behaviour clients, family and Paws friends a wonderful Christmas and a Prosperous New Year.

We have tons of exciting things planned for next year. Workshops, seminars, talent shows, fun games days and various other educational and charity events. So keep tuned in for our news and views. Me, I am chomping at the bit to get started in 2009! I just cant wait!

Regards
Louise
Consulting Rooms (011) 969-4467 Mobile 082-890-0905 Electronic address louthomp@mweb.co.za



P.S. We have still got a few gift vouchers on sale at Gentle Paws. They are available (in R50 vouchers) for all kinds of grooming, from “Gentle Paws”. They make a great last minute gift ! Contact Emma at 082-923-9317