Paws Abilities Behaviour & Learning Centre
Newsletter Number 14 January 2008
A warm welcome to all “Paws” connections, clients, friends, and students!
After the recent success of the four training and behaviour workshops we have decided to continue on our education mission and will be holding some PRACTICAL (hands on) workshops (with your dogs) in the near future.
Please let us know what problems you need assistance with – or subject matter that would be interesting or educational, be it training problems (anything from retrieve to recalls) or behavoiur problems (aggression to phobia’s) If we get a good response we will attempt to tailor make a fun, practical workshop day for you and your dogs.
I would like to take this opportunity to thank all those who attended our recent theory workshops, we appreciate your support, and the proceeds have gone to be used for various sterilisations of underprivileged animals. Thanks also must go to Maureen and Rose for the wonderful treats they provided for us to eat each and every workshop, and of course to the others who helped, Mandy, Siobhan, Lindie and Emma – all of whose help was greatly appreciated.
I still have some copies of each workshop’s proceedings if anyone is interested please give me a shout. They are on sale (to cover printing costs) at R35 each plus packaging and postage. You can contact me via e mail at louthomp@mweb.co.za or telephone (office hours) 011 969-4467 or mobile 082-890-0905
TRAINING THROUGHOUT THE SILLY SEASON
Although we did wind down a bit over Christmas, the training school (behaviour practice and grooming parlour) was open right through December and January and we made up classes of whoever was present. In the latter part of December we had provided some wonderful socialising opportunities for the dogs (and owners). In fact on one Saturday afternoon there were a couple of dozen dogs running free in our large training area. The dogs were introduced one at a time in a non-threatening, non-territorial area. These were dogs of various ages, various different sizes and breeds, and there was no aggression (well as long as we didn’t let some of the handlers didn’t interfere). It was a sight to behold and an exercise that we intend to continue on a regular basis to ensure continued good social skills. Well done to all the handlers who were brave enough!
YEAR END FUNCTION
We have decided to hold back on our year end bring and braai, as most of our students were booked with various other events. We have therefore decided to have a bring and braai after the New Year. All students will be informed as soon as we set a date.
HOW TO USE TREATS CORRECTLY FOR REWARD AND TRAINING
By Shannon McKay,
Accredited Animal Behaviour Consultant
Shannon is an animal behaviour consultant and dog trainer, who runs McKaynine Training Centre in the West Rand.
What types of treats are easy to use and good for your pet?
Treats that can be easily broken into small pieces are ideal. If they are dry and non-greasy this also makes them easier and more pleasant to handle and store.
Almost any commercial treat in moderation is fine for most pets; however if a pet has specific dietary requirements or allergies then a vet should be consulted prior to using treats. Most commercial treats have a high fat content to make them more appealing, so it is important to remember that treats are treats and not a complete food! Feeding household scraps as treats can be dangerous and certain foods such as raisins, grapes, Chocolates etc. can be deadly for pets. It is important for cats and dogs to eat balanced diets with sufficient fat, fibre, carbohydrates, proteins, vitamins, and minerals, remembering that different animals, breeds, and ages all have specific requirements. Moreover, you effectively starve a pet to death when you don’t feed the correct quantities of a balanced diet.
During training, at what point do you give your dog a treat?
The pet should receive the treat precisely when he performs the desired behaviour. Even delaying the treat by one second can confuse the dog. He should ideally receive the treat in the same position that is being rewarded for example; if he is being taught to lie down and he is rewarded for this when he is sitting, he will think he is being rewarded for sitting.
Do you need to use any vocal affirmations whilst giving your pet a treat?
Yes, it is important to connect the verbal praise and the treat. This way the dog develops a positive association with the verbal praise - dogs have to be "trained" to know when you're happy with them. This also helps when you do not have treats available. However, it is important to continue to treat the dog intermittently for desired behaviour. We never totally wean a dog off treats, we simply ask him to do more before he gets a treat!
How frequently do you use treats during a training session?
With a beginner dog, treats should be used very frequently and as the dog progresses the treats would be used more sparingly. If the dog is learning a new command, he is rewarded for each and every single correct response.
Once he is performing the behaviour consistently, he could be rewarded for every second or third correct response. Although it may seem that this could discourage the pet, they will actually work harder to get that treat. By keeping them guessing they have more focus and if they are given the odd jackpot (an extra large treat) for an excellent response, they will always endeavour for that jackpot!
DOG GROOMERS AND DOG GROOMING ISSUES
Recently I have been inundated with negative reports from pet owners who have had serious negative experiences with dog groomers. In retrospect, I am not really surprised that many dogs do not find the experience of being groomed by professional groomers very pleasant! I am also far from surprised that so many dogs are less than cooperative when being groomed!
After speaking with several recently qualified young women, all of whom have just completed their apprenticeship, I was shocked by the way, they described how some of the dogs were handled whilst they undertook their “in house” apprenticeship.
Reports of the following have come to my attention…………
Ø Dogs being lifted by the scruff of the neck and roughly shaken – because they are “naughty”.
Ø Dogs being hit and slapped, (usually across the face).
Ø Dogs being washed in icy, cold water – even on bitterly cold winter days!
Ø Dogs being drugged without the owners consent.
Ø Dogs being tied up on high grooming tables, tethered with choker chains. This is extremely dangerous, as if a dog jumped off it could break its neck or suffer a serious injury.
Ø Dogs being muzzled without the owner’s consent – and then not even using a humane muzzle, only a tatty piece of nylon rope, tied tight around the muzzle, digging into the skin, also inhibiting both the blood circulation and the dogs breathing. Bear in mind that a stressed dog will need to pant more!
Ø Dogs not wanting to come out of travelling cages – and then being impatiently dragged out of the dog cage, upside down by the back legs.
Ø Dogs being tied up, left outside to dry in a tiny yard on choke chains and leashes that were so short, that there was not enough leash for them to lie down. In fact, that particular parlour was situated next to one of the country’s main highway’s (this is one of the Durban parlours) with a huge traffic volume, terrible traffic noise and exhaust emission pollution, all of which must be incredibly stressful and unhealthy for the dogs. No shelter was provided from the sun either! (Note – this parlour has already been reported to the local Durban SPCA)
Ø Dogs being “forgotten” in cages with an industrial dog hair dryer on full – (usually directed straight at the face) ending up suffering from dehydration, heat exhaustion and even report of subsequent death!
Ø Large or giant breed being squashed into cages or crates that were too small for the breed for long periods of time, groomers/owners obviously not wanting to spend large sums of money on adequate sized crates, as they are very costly.
Ø Dogs being sick, or sick when collected – and the owners not being informed.
Ø Owners getting the “wrong dog” back after collection and delivery!
Ø Dogs escaping and causing havoc in busy roads – and owners not informed of the incident.
Ø Dogs escaping from pens and cages, ending up at the SPCA or worse! There was a case a couple of years ago where a dog ended up being euthanised by one of the welfare agencies after originally escaping from a dog grooming parlour.
Ø Dirty practices – faeces not removed, huge fly infestations, and yards and cages used from dog to dog without being sterilised.
Ø Elderly dogs with arthritis or joint problems being forced to stand for long periods of time, in discomfort, and if they moved or were not particularly cooperative, being punished (yelled at, slapped or worse) “because they are naughty and must stand still”!
Ø Owners asking for their dogs to be dipped or provided with some other external parasite protection, the parlour agreeing, and charging the owners, but not providing the dip/pour on – lies!
SA PET GROOMERS ASSOCIATION
There used to be a registering body for groomers in this country. This body had a code of ethics and set down good practice standards for the industry. It appears that it is now disbanded and the industry has now been left to its own devices. Apart from reporting any obvious cruelty or neglect to one of the animal welfare organisations with a view to prosecution under the Animal Protection Act (organisations such as the SPCA, AACL etc), it seems that pet owners have little recourse when it comes to problems and / or ethical complaints. The onus is now on the pet owner to have to make an informed/educated choice of grooming parlour and indeed to monitor such on an ongoing basis.
EDUCATION
There are courses available for pet groomers, but hands on experience, is of course what counts. Theory courses (in my humble) opinion are not ideal, as this kind of profession needs practical “hands on”experience”. There are also couple of private groomers and retired groomers who run courses, which are excellent, but the problem is, that with “difficult dogs” or dogs with issues, a holistic approach might be needed, which normal dog groomers are just not equipped or trained to be able to provide. Input and treatment from various sources such as veterinarians, animal behaviourists, and even dog trainers is sometimes necessary. It must be emphasised that most dog groomers are NOT animal behaviourists or, dog trainers. Many dog groomers have little breed characteristic knowledge and know nothing of alternative or non- confrontational methods of problem solving, with regards to dogs with behavioural, training and / or grooming issues.
Time is another factor, if a dog has issues, be it grooming issues or any other behavioural issue, most dog groomers simply do not have the time to spend on one difficult dog. It would not be economically viable to spend many hours on one difficult dog when a groomer can make lots of money grooming several dogs in the same amount of time. This is one of the reasons I am sure, why many groomers routinely muzzle and restrain dogs who present with even the smallest issue – economically there is just not enough time.
CHOOSE YOUR GROOMER VERY CAREFULLY!
Consider the following:-
Ø Unfortunately - most parlours do not have an open door policy. Most parlours “take the dogs round to the back”. The public are usually not allowed “around the back”.
Ø Most parlours use cheap untrained labour, - often people who are just desperate for a job – without animal experience and with little training. In fact, I wonder after hearing the above reports, if any of them even like dogs.
Ø Owners seem to spend a lot of their day doing the collecting and delivering – which I am sure doesn’t need much doggy skill!
Ø The other point of interest was that most of the apprentice groomers reported that often, huge numbers of dogs are groomed in one day. For example, at one parlour - with a staff of only three workers and one “qualified/experienced” groomer (the workers were also clipping, brushing, trimming and trimming nails) they groom on average 30 to 45 dogs per day! And in December they sometimes groom up to 50 dogs per day!!!! The experienced “groomer/owner” was quite tied up with collections and deliveries, so obviously (as most of their clientele worked, and needed the collection and delivery service) she spent most of the day on the road!
When such a small staff has to get through a workload of up to 50 dogs – (unless they only groom tiny breeds who don’t need a clip or shaping) I would say that it would be near impossible to cope with that amount of dogs and remain gentle and kind! How can anyone be expected to be patient, understanding, and gentle, with such a huge workload? This kind of establishment could not be considered a grooming parlour – it is a sausage factory!
TIPS FOR CHOOSING A GOOD GROOMER
WHAT IS A “GOOD” DOG GROOMER
Ø Good groomers are kind, patience and above all, always consistent when interacting with dogs! They are calm, and move slowly and gently with confidence!
Ø Good groomers don’t overbook! They only book (in advance) an amount of dogs that they are confident that they can handle in a day, without being rushed or loosing their temper!
Ø Good groomers have an open door policy. If they will not let you look around, say thanks and LEAVE! You should be able to pop in and look around at any time without an appointment! What have they got to hide? Don’t be fobbed off by them telling you that if you stick around you will upset the dogs – nonsense, you are the customer, if they want your business you have every right to see what is going on!
Ø Good groomers will let you observe how they handle other people’s dogs – if not, LEAVE.
Ø Good groomers will be able to provide you with a list of happy, satisfied clients.
Ø Good groomers will refer you to a colleague and happily do so, if they feel they cannot handle, or do not have the experience or expertise to deal with your dog.
Ø Good groomers ask you IN ADVANCE if your dog has any problems, medical or behavioural and has enough knowledge to explain to you how they are going to cope with such issues.
Ø If your groomer is going to collect and deliver – before the first visit, he will enquire if your dog is used to or happy in the car.
Ø Good groomers will have a basic knowledge of dog care, basic illnesses and their symptoms.
Ø Good groomers will be able to refer you to other animal professionals where necessary (veterinarians, positive reinforcement dog trainers, and accredited animal behaviourists).
Ø Good groomers will let you bring your puppy in for a few sessions to get used to the sounds, smells and going’s on before being booked in for the first grooming session. Some reputable animal behaviourists and competent dog trainers even have a play / accustomisation programme in order to gradually accustomise pups for positive future grooming (using only positive reinforcement and reward based methods). The early this is achieved the easier future grooming will be.
Ø Good groomers will have a basic knowledge of animal body language and basic animal communication signals.
Ø Good groomers will have a basic knowledge of the different breed’s characteristics, each group of dogs (gundogs, working dogs, spitz breeds etc) have different characteristics and might need different handling.
Ø Good groomers have knowledge of the basic behavioural stages of puppy development, knowing which stages are difficult, when the average pup goes through a fear, or challenge period, and how to handle it without the use of force or confrontation.
Ø Good groomers don’t need to use choke chains
Ø Good groomers don’t muzzle all dogs as a matter of course.
Ø Good groomers have the animals interest as their main motivation – they are not out to make a quick buck
Think very hard before trusting your best friend to the mercy of a stranger.
Get referrals from friends, family, your veterinarian, your dog trainer, behaviourist, or other animal professionals!
WAYS TO PREVENT GROOMING FROM BEING AN ISSUE
If you have a breed that needs professional grooming, or don’t like to have the hassle of keeping up to date with your dogs coat you will need to take the following into account.
Ø Ensure that from an early age your pup attends a good positive reinforcement early puppy education group. One that not only concentrates on socialisation, but also confidence building exercises and handling skills.
Ø Ensure that from an early age the pup is exposed to the sounds, smells, and other grooming environment experiences. This should be achieved using a positive association such as a game, a favourite toy, or a high value treat.
Ø From an early age make sure that (even if the pup is not actually being groomed) he gets used to the sounds of the dryer, hair clippers, and that he becomes accustomised to the feel and sound of the nail clippers. Some puppy learning groups provide this service and there are now a few good dog-grooming establishments who also let you sit in and get the pups used to the sounds, smells and “going’s on”.
Ø Never groom or brush your dog when you are in a bad mood or after a bad day at the office.
Ø Never handle your dog roughly or in temper when grooming – or the next time he is groomed he will not be so quick or easy to comply.
Ø As much as possible try to make the experience pleasant and fun for the dog.
GROOMING AND BATHING YOUR PUPPY
(With input from accredited ABC’c of SA (©®™)
By the time an owner realises what an absolute “pain in the neck” grooming and keeping their pet’s coat in good condition is, it is often too late for the puppy to learn that bath-time can be pleasant and rewarding for both pet and owner. Even if you intend to send your pup to a professional groomer or dog parlour, it will certainly be a great advantage (reducing his stress and anxiety levels) if you teach him, from an early age, that grooming and bath time is a pleasant experience. Teaching your pup to bath without a fuss will also help to bond you and your pup, and will increase his tolerance and coping levels. It will also make him an easier animal to handle, which will be beneficial for you, the groomer and your vet.
If your pup is going to go to a groomer regularly, get him used to the sounds, smells, and procedure from an early age. Most dog groomers are delighted if you take your pup to the parlour and let him gradually get used to the surroundings from an early age; so that when he has to be groomed, it is not as frightening, (It also makes the grooming job easier)
When you yourself groom your dog/pup on a regular basis, you can often spot any possible medical problems at an early stage before they develop and worsen. It is also a good way to control external parasites such as fleas and ticks, which can cause disease in dogs (fleas can contribute to worms – some of which you and your family can also catch)!
Brushing your dog is also good for you! It has been proven that grooming/stroking a pet, lowers the human heart rate and reduces human blood pressure. It is, therefore, not only good for your pet’s health, but is also good for your heath! All dogs need regular brushing. Dogs with thick or woolly coats often need a professional dog groomer, in order to remove the dead hair/knots/mattes. The groomer will also clip or shape the coat, if necessary (breed specific) and bath and dip the dog to control fleas and ticks although the dog should be on a permanent internal and external parasite programme. Contact your veterinarian for advice on internal parasites (worms) and external parasites (fleas, ticks, and mites).
If your dog has a short coat, it does not mean that he does not need to be brushed regularly. The stimulation of brushing massages the coat and skin and improves his condition, providing the animal with a wonderful feeling of wellbeing.
Don’t forget to give the ears attention as well! Many breeds of dogs have ear shapes that seem to attract biting flies! This is extremely uncomfortable for the dog and there are various products that you can put on the ears to repel biting flies.
Some of these products, which are available from your veterinarian and some retail stores, also have sun protection for dogs with pale pigmentation, which protects them from the sun and from developing skin cancer, which is a big problem with pale-skinned dogs. THE YOUNGER YOU START BRUSHING AND GROOMING, THE EASIER IT BECOMES!
Beware of bathing your dog/pup too much, as it can dry out the skin. Brushing the pup is much better for him, especially in the early months. A good brushing of his coat stimulates natural oils, helping to keep the coat shiny and healthy and is physically pleasant for the dog/pup.
THE SAME BASIC PRINCIPLES APPLY FOR TEACHING A YOUNG PUP TO TOLERATE GROOMING AS WELL AS RE-TEACHING AN OLDER DOG WHO HAS HAD BAD EXPERIENCES OR WHO HAS GROOMING ISSUES
As soon as your pup has settled into your home and is used to wearing a light collar, you should start to get him used to a regular daily brushing routine. Start with a soft brush the first time, which can massage/rub the coat without being caught in his hair. Be as calm and as matter of fact as you can about the whole business. You do not want the pup to see that you are worried! Settle the pup on your lap or on the floor on a towel and let him sniff the brush and any other tools you have, such as his towel, etc. Gently handle his feet, ears and mouth, and touch him all over. Gently restrain the pup with one hand, and calmly slide the brush over his back and withers a couple of times, immediately continuing with the physical touch.
We do not want him to learn to bite or play with the brush when he is being groomed. If he does – use your growl voice and softly say, “Leave it”. For the first few days repeat this procedure for about a minute twice or three times a day to get him used to the idea. Remember to praise your puppy lavishly each and every time he accepts the brush on his body.
Gradually, over a period of time, you may brush more parts for longer. As the pup gets older, you may use a slightly firmer brush and, depending on the dog’s coat, eventually progress to a wire brush with straight teeth. Try to make your body movements confident and appear self-assured, which will give your pup confidence. People who dither, and ‘faff’ around, often have pets that are difficult to groom and handle. Do not let the pup run away. Have him on a collar and leash and limit his options. This can be done with a kind voice, a smile, and lots of repetition.
REMEMBER THAT IF YOUR PUP DOES NOT ENJOY GROOMING OR IS NAUGHTY,
IT IS YOUR OWN FAULT! As you obviously did not make it a pleasant experience for him!
In this case, you should re-teach the whole thing from scratch, making sure that - through patience and understanding the pup has a good experience.
BRUSHING A DOG WITH LONG HAIR
Dogs with long hair have to be brushed in a very different manner to shorthaired breeds. They often have a very dense, solid undercoat, which, if not brushed correctly, knots very quickly. Top brushing (sliding the brush over only the top of the coat) does not remove the hair or get to the undercoat! Divide the hair into partings and a section at a time and brush downwards. Start at the lowest section you are grooming and work upwards in parted sections, a bit at a time. This is the only way to get to the dense undercoat. Brushing from the top and following the lay of the dogs coat only grooms the “topcoat”. The hair underneath would not be reached, resulting in a messy and mattered coat which needs regular attention!
SHORT HAIRED BREEDS
Shorthaired dogs’ coats are often really neglected. It should be remembered that they moult dramatically at the end of each season and lose vast amounts of hair – usually on our clothes/furniture/car! Shorthaired dogs should be groomed regularly to avoid this. There are various new types of grooming tools available for shorthaired breeds, from rubber gloves to rubber hand- held brushes without bristles, and have bumpy bits of rubber sticking out to remove dead hair and give the coat a great shine.
BATHING YOUR PUPPY
As mentioned earlier dogs and puppies should not be bathed too often, as it dries out their coats. Regular brushing should keep them clean and is far healthier than continual bathing. If you have a shorthaired breed, and he gets a bit dusty, you can always just rub him down with a damp towel, which will keep him in top shape!
If you have had a romp in the park and he is soaked and full of mud, rinse him off with plain water, which will not dry out his coat, but will get rid of the yucky smell!
HOWEVER – it is a good idea to teach the pup to get used to, and tolerate, being bathed, even if it is not going to happen too often! There is no need to use shampoo, but remember that your puppy should be having regular preventative treatments for ticks and fleas. Contact your veterinarian for his expert advice on appropriate, effective products.
THE BATH
Make sure that all the goodies you need are ready and easily available before you begin. There is nothing more frustrating than having to leave the pup in the water (yes – he will jump out and shake all over the bathroom!) to fetch something that you have forgotten!
You will need:-
Ø A plastic bath outside in the garden on a warm sunny day, or your own bath – Just make sure that you put a rubber mat, or a big towel, on the floor of the bath so that the pup will not slip or fall and hurt himself.
Ø If outside, a bucket of lukewarm water. Remember to check the temperature – puppies, as small babies need to have the temperature checked as they can get badly burned – use the elbow method (just like with a human baby)!
Ø A big sponge to get him used to the feel of water over his body.
Ø A big towel for drying him off.
To begin with, ensure that you are being very “matter of fact’ with the pup. Again, we do not want him to think that this is a “big deal”. Pick him up calmly, in the usual way. Be gentle and matter of fact and, with some verbal encouragement and praise, pop him into the empty bath.
Dampen the sponge and, while talking to him, slowly run the dampened sponge over his legs and sides. Gradually work up to his back and withers. Be careful that you do not wet his eyes or ears, or frighten him in any way. As this is only a “play” bath, you should not soak the dog. Concentrate on the “easy” parts of his body only, which are his legs, sides, and back. After a few minutes, you can bring him out and give him a nice little rub down with the towel. This should be repeated regularly – to have any lasting effect – practising for the real thing! This will prepare your pup in a positive way for the time when he has to face the dog groomer!
PARASITES – NAILS, TEETH AND EARS
All dogs and pups should, from an early age, be on a permanent preventative programme to keep them tick and flea free. Not only can ticks and fleas make your dog ill (billary – tick bite fever is fatal to dogs!) they can also cause severe skin irritation and allergic reactions. Some parasites can also make humans ill and carry diseases such as billary fever and tapeworms, which can also affect our human health and make people very sick indeed.
There are many different products available from the supermarket and the veterinarian to control ticks and fleas. Please make sure that the product you use is safe for puppies as not all of these products are suitable for young pups. Some products can be toxic to puppies and to other species, such as fish, birds, and even horses! Ask your veterinarian for his recommendation and be sure to follow the instructions carefully.
Other parasites to be concerned about are worms. Young pups need to be de-wormed regularly. At least three to four times a year for the rest of their lives! De-worming is an on going and preventative. Certain types of worms can also be passed from your dog to humans, so it is common sense to de-worm puppies and dogs regularly!
NAILS
Pups generally run around enough to wear down their nails, so you often do not actually have to trim them. However, it is suggested that you get the pup used to the practice from an early age, for the time when you will have to clip his nails. Make sure that you are calm and do not make a fuss about it. With clippers at the ready, hold him gently on your lap, or lay him down on the floor. Take one foot at a time and pretend to use the clippers on his nails (also one at a time).
By doing a “practice run” regularly, it is not an issue when you have to do the real thing! When trimming an older dog’s nails, make sure that you only snip a tiny amount off the end of the nail each time, or you could accidentally cut the tiny vein inside. Rather nip a millimetre off every couple of days until they reach an acceptable length, than cut too much off and hurt the dog.
TEETH
By playing “Doctor Doctor” regularly, you should be able to examine your dog’s teeth without a problem. Remember to practise this often, as it is a skill that is easily lost! By the time, he is about six months old he should have lost all his baby milk teeth and most of his adult teeth should be through. Give him lots of cow hooves or good large bones (uncooked and uncut – ox femurs are the best!) to keep his teeth clean. There are also special products available for cleaning dogs’ teeth and it is a good idea to get him used to the feel and movement of cleaning teeth. You can even get steak flavoured doggie toothpaste – yummy!
EARS
Your pup’s ears also need to be examined regularly - externally - and internally. Dogs with upright ears such as German Shepherd Dogs often get the ends badly bitten in the summer months by biting flies. These bites cause sores, scabs, and bleeding and often get inflamed. They need to be controlled or the dog will end up with scarring or worse, infections, etc. Apply a suitable fly repellent three times a week, as a preventative measure. Fly repellents are available from your veterinarian. A mixture of Citronella oil and Vaseline works but has to be applied daily. Some of the equine products work quite well, but are not as effective as products obtained from the veterinarian. Contact your veterinarian for his advice and expertise!
THE INNER EAR
The inside of your pup’s ear also needs to be cleaned out regularly with a bit of cotton wool to get rid of dust and dirt. Do not use ear buds, as they are not designed for a dog’s ear. Also, do not dig in the ear canal, as this can cause damage.
Ear mites can also cause a great deal of discomfort and permanent damage to the dog’s ears, if not treated in the early stages. When examining the ear, look for red mud or gooey dirt. Ear mites need to be treated by the veterinarian! Signs to look out for would be the pup/dog shaking its head excessively and general irritation and sensitivity around the ear area. If left unattended they can cause permanent damage!
Training a Dog to Bite the Family Child
Sent in by Amanda Cronje (dog trainer)
This case will not take long, but I present it because we are getting so many calls for diagnosing the problem.The Collie puppy was a male and very friendly. He was obtained at 7 weeks of age. Now 7 months old, he had "bitten" the child when she rolled on the floor and bumped into him as he lay chewing his pig's ear chewy.
From puppy hood, the father, mother, and 9-year-old daughter taught him to sit by rewarding him with one of the commercial titbits. At about 6 months, he was introduced to pig's ears and always had one at his disposal. He had always been 'guardy' about his food, growling when people put the food down and stood close to him.
The father noticed at about 6 months, when they reached to pet him or give him a treat, he started to raise his flews and show his upper teeth. They scolded him; and he then added a growl to his routine. (They did not appreciate that the dog was simply getting 'hand-happy,' raising his upper lip to prepare to take a goodie.) Using advice from a book, he then started evening "training" sessions in which he would offer a pig's ear, then clamp the dog's snout when he raised his flews and shout loudly, "No!” Some of these sessions lasted up to an hour. Sure enough, the dog quit the behaviour with the father.
Then the child rolled into him and he swung around with a loud, mouth open "get away" growl. His teeth hit her arm. Her skin was scratched through her loosely fitting shirt and she bled. There was no bite puncture. The father grabbed the dog by the neck, dragged him to the back door, and threw him down the back stairs into the yard. The dog then started holing-up under the dining room table when in the house. He growled when people approached.
The father had effectively driven the aggressive reactions to extinction with him; but, at the same time, he had "loaded' the dog for the child. The process is called ‘facilitation.’ When she interfered with his chew-time on the pig's ear, the pent-up aggressive behaviour was released
Successful treatment for this kind of problem depends on the owner's appreciation for the root causes and dedication to regaining the dog's trust in the father. In this case, he did appreciate his role in the problem and carried out the remedial program successfully. A veterinary examination for possible neck or throat injuries was negative. The program involved getting rid of the pig's ears and titbits, putting the dog on the learn-to-earn praise and petting program, building his confidence that hands were for positive petting, not snout-clamps or neck-grabs and painful trips down the back stairs.
How do you overcome training with distractions? What is reinforcement? Reinforcement is what happens when a behaviour is maintained or increased. Dog training is essentially a progression of reinforcements. Food, toys, play, attention, and 'life rewards' such as being let inside or taken for a walk are all potential reinforcers.
Without reinforcement, behaviour will never be maintained or increased. This is fine if you want a behaviour to disappear - simply stop reinforcing it. However, if you want a particular behaviour, you need to reinforce it.
Most dog trainers these days use food as a reinforcer. It is by no means the only reinforcer, but food is convenient and, let's face it, all dogs need to eat!
So we start off training with food in a quiet, distraction-free area inside the house. We put any other pets out of the room. We turn off the TV. We wait until the kids are in bed. Then we shut the door and train. There are numerous books and articles explaining how to do this, so I will not re-hash the basics.
The problems begin when we get out of that distraction-free environment and into the real world. Here there are other dogs, birds, squirrels, cats, new smells, sights, sounds, people, cars, bikes, postmen - it's all out there! Our training usually starts falling apart once we leave the house. But it doesn't need to.The big secret to dog training is to always set the dog up for success. If the dog fails, we can't reinforce. If we can't reinforce, behaviour can not be maintained or increased. If behaviour hasn't been maintained or increased, training has failed.
So we need to set the dog up to succeed. Going too far, too fast will only lead to failure. Allowing too many distractions or too big a distraction too soon is setting our dog up to fail. Without success, we've got nothing to reinforce.
The best way to set our dogs up for success is to control the environment as best we possibly can until they are well and truly proofed and ready for the big wide world. Let's say we normally train in our kitchen with the door shut. Here is a list of things we can do to set up some low-level distractions:
1. place a tennis ball in the middle of the floor2. turn the radio on softly, then turn it up gradually throughout our training session3. have a friend come into the room with us4. put a piece of stale dog food on the floor5. wave our arms around6. turn the taps on halfway through an exercise7. whistle a tune8. roll a tennis ball slowly in front of our dog9. turn away from our dog
... Or any combination of the above.
Remember, the secret is to always set our dogs up for success, so that we may reinforce (maintain or increase) their good behaviour. If any of the distractions on that list are too much, then our dog fails. Just because I wrote it on my list of low-level distractions doesn't mean that your individual dog won't find any one of those things too distracting.
Be creative. Think of new things to add to the list. When your dog can cope with them all, start making up combinations. Invite two or more friends around to help. Have them toss a ball back and forth while you practise stays or recalls. Have one of them whistle a tune while the other waves her arms around. The sky is the limit so long as we always set our dogs up for success.
When we have trained with distractions inside the house, we are ready to find a quiet spot outside. No other dogs around, no kids playing, no cars screaming past, and hopefully no cats or squirrels. We train the behaviour, and then start adding the distractions from our list, always setting our dog up to succeed. That is all there is to it - manufacture some controlled distractions, build them up, and always make them just easy enough that your dog continually succeeds so that you can reinforce the behaviour.
KENNEL CARE VS HOME-ALONE CARE
Remember to make arrangements for your pets early!
EASTER IS JUST AROUND THE CORNER!
HOME-ALONE CARE
It is generally not a good idea to have a friend or neighbour pop in daily to care for your dog when you are away.
For one thing, most people are not experienced enough to be able to spot illness timorously. For example, Billary fever, a disease presenting with symptoms of anaemia, lethargy and listlessness. In the latter stages, the dog exhibits a lack of appetite. Lack of appetite is often confused with the dog pining for his owners! Billary if left untreated can be fatal! If you decide on home care, a better option would be to get a responsible, full time house sitter, (someone who possesses animal-experience and knowledge).
I must add, that dogs suffering from noise phobias, who are thunder phobic, or suffer from sound sensitivity should never be left home alone! These dogs are more likely to present a danger to themselves and others. They are the dogs that often escape in panic when their owners are away, get run over on the roads during a storm, and end up as strays in animal shelters.
THINGS TO THINK ABOUT
Ø The dog should have adequate shelter from the elements. Ideally, if it is an inside dog, a doggie door with access to a secure room with a safe place/bed should be provided. It may be necessary to block off an open- plan kitchen, or make some other suitable arrangement.
Ø Do not change the dogs’ usual access to the house. Do not suddenly dump a house-dog in the garage – he will stress! Stress = noise pollution. One of the most common problems with dogs left “home – alone” whilst their owners are on holiday is noise pollution. Noise pollution = neighbour complaints!
Ø Clean water must be available at all times in a spill-proof dish. If all else fails, a washing up bowl wedged into a motor care tyre works well.
Ø The dog should be protected from external parasites with a long acting tick and flea preparation (available from your veterinarian). He should also be protected against biting flies (in the summer months). All these products are available from your veterinarian.
Ø The property and environment where the dog is to be confined should be completely escape proof.
Ø Do not leave the dog/s wearing a check chain, or a slip collar. If it gets stuck on a branch or fence, your dog could strangle himself! Leave him wearing flat collar, in which you can fit at least three fingers in to ensure it is not too tight.
Ø Anything dangerous in the environment must be removed, or made “safe”. Any poisonous substances need to be locked away. Contents of the garage need to be made safe. Spikes on any gates will need to be taped. Care needs to be taken if you own elderly dogs. They sometimes get disorientated and if you have a swimming pool, could fall in and drown...
Ø You will need to provide the dogs with an abundance of chew items. Leave an abundance of non-synthetic objects for him to vent on. Items such as cow hooves, pigs ears, etc. If you own several dogs, you should also consider any potential aggression that could occur in your absence. Stress can make aggression worse. If you are in any doubt, then rather kennel the dogs.
Ø Matters of hygiene need to be considered. Your house sitter must be prepared to “scoop the poop” at least once a day. This is to prevent an increase in flies for the duration of your absence
Ø Make sure that all your dogs have nametags on their collars. The nametags should clearly state the sitter’s contacts (as you will be away). Just in case of an accident and he manages to escape – he can be returned and not risk being at a welfare for a week and then being re-homed
Ø Lastly provide your sitter with all your relevant veterinarians’ numbers including an emergency hour’s numbers.
KENNEL CARE
Before choosing a boarding kennel, you should get plenty of referrals.
A good place to start is your local veterinarian. Groomer’s, friends (with good experiences), dog trainers etc. View the kennels well in advance, preferably NOT in the “off season”, as, when they are busy it will provide you with a better idea of how they cope under pressure. A visit prior to kennelling will also provide you with insight of their routines and the general care that they provide.
If a referral is not possible. You should look for kennel that is a registered member of the Pet Boarders Association. The organisation has a Code of Ethics, which provides the public with a certain amount of protection.
PREPARING YOUR PUP FOR A KENNEL STAY
Book well in advance. Good kennels are often booked up long before the holiday season.
In an ideal scenario, you should prepare you dog or pup well in advance. Start to visit the kennel for short social visits. Do this regularly up to a month or two before leaving your dog there. Take his favourite toys. Play games with him.
Play ball, pop treats, etc. Anything that you can do which will provide the dog/pup with a positive association to the environment. This will ensure that when he is actually left at the kennels, it will not be such a culture shock.
The next step would be to book him in for a morning stay. Once this is successful, the next step would be to book him in for a one-day stay. Thereafter, you could then book him in for a trial weekend. Ensure that you obtain feedback from the owners and staff as to how he coped.
Before booking in, protect your dog from any possible parasites by using a long acting tick & flea preparation. You should also provide the staff with a preparation to repel biting flies. Both products are available from your veterinarian.
Inform staff of any special diet that your dog requires. Realise that this could affect the price of his stay.
Depending on his length of stay, your dog might need additional exercise. Make sure this service is provided by the establishment. If you are only going away for a couple of days, it is not an issue. In addition (for short-term stays), if the dog is stressed, he will probably feel more secure if he is confined to a smaller area. Only be concerned about adequate exercise if you are away for a longer period. However, it is important that you confirm this with the staff. Some kennels provide wonderful escape proof, exercise areas. If your dog is a “jumper” or expert escape artist, please inform staff. This could be critical to ensure your dogs safety.
TAKE A DOG HOLIDAY PACK for your dog.
Take a piece of your clothing to leave in his kennel. The clothing should have your scent on it. This will help your dog/pup to feel less abandoned in the kennel, and aid in providing him with feelings of security.
Take lots of stuff for him to chew. Take along his favourite toys and non-synthetic chews to vent on. (pigs ears, cow hooves, etc.) You can even provide the staff with some yummy fillings for them to pack inside the hooves. Peanut butter, Bovril, whatever … All of this will aid in relieving boredom, reducing stress and providing him with something to occupy himself with in your absence.
Do take his own bed and bedding. DON’T FORGET TO LET STAFF KNOW THAT ….. you don’t care if his bedding, toys, or other items are destroyed, chewed up, or peed on. If you don’t let them know. Staff will often whisk them away, to make sure they are presented to you when you collect your dog – clean and in one piece.
EXCITING NEWS
The launch of an exciting new web site is IMMINENT! Siobhan, Mandy and myself are contributing and assisting where we can. The site is going to be called Animal Connections. We are having a section for everyone! The three of us are also currently involved with education – especially re sterilisation with a view to helping to reduce the number of unwanted litters. We have called ourselves “Bitches Against Breeding” – (please don’t LOL – we know we are naturals!) which I guess is self explanatory!
Ø Adoptions / lost and found – with links to various sites as a way to aid in homing abandoned and unwanted dogs and cats.
Ø Breed information
Ø Pet matching quiz
Ø Canine behaviour page
Ø Early puppy education page
Ø Dog training page
Ø Cat behaviour page
Ø Veterinary care page
Ø Alternative healing page
Ø Nutrition
Ø Kennels and grooming parlours – articles and approved establishments
Ø Bitch page – a venue to subscribes to vent on!
Ø Behaviour Q & A page
Ø Current abuse cases
Ø Current relevant petitions
Ø Activities with your dog (formal and informal)
I will inform you all when the site is up and running.
That’s all for now folks, will chat again soon. Let us hope that the wet weather leaves us soon. I am tired of wet dog, wet carpets, wet furniture and muddy footmarks and paw prints.
Best Regards
Louise
“Paws Abilities”
Behaviour & Learning Centre
PROBLEM PETS? Book NOW for a Private Behaviour Consultation.
Does your pet exhibit any of the following unwanted behaviours?
Aggression towards people or pets.
Anxiety, neurosis, fears or phobias
Self- mutilation.
Fighting or incompatibilities.
Digging or destructive chewing.
Escaping or gate bolting.
Excessive barking or howling.
Inappropriate toilet habits.
Tail chasing, spinning, or shadow chasing.
Hyper sexuality, leg/object mounting.
Disobedience, excitability, jumping up etc.
Physical disabilities.
THE BEHAVIOUR CONSULTATION: (Advanced booking is essential.)
Ø On the day of the appointment, the pet & family members will be seen at the Paws Abilities Consulting rooms, or occasionally, under special circumstances the pet will be seen in the owner’s home.
Ø When seen at the Paws Abilities consulting rooms, on consultation, the pet will be placed in a secure area, where observations will be made, whilst a full background and history is taken, and all problems being experienced are fully discussed.
Ø After an in-depth evaluation, an immediate prognosis is given, followed by a brief oral outline of what is needed for a successful resolution. This is backed up by a full written report, detailing the step by step instructions needed for success.
Ø The cost varies according to time/location etc, and an average of 2 hours is needed.
Ø The fee includes: the consultation, a detailed written report, and telephonic back up.
Ø A successful outcome depends largely on owner co-operation, compliance, & consistency.
For Gentle Solutions – That Work!
For the “LOVE” of Dogs!
Louise Thompson – Accredited Animal Behaviour Consultant.
Accredited Animal Behaviour Consultant & Professional Dog Trainer:
Accredited in 1995 with the Animal Behaviour Consultants of SA (©®™).
Certificate of Companion Animal Behaviour (Faculty of Veterinary Science,
Department of Ethology, University of Pretoria) 1996
Certificate of Advanced Companion Animal Behaviour (Pretoria Technikon) 1997
Member of (SAADOI) the SA Association of Dog Obedience Instructors &
various overseas “Like” organisations for animal trainers and animal behaviourists
Paws Abilities
Specialists in …
DOG TRAINING
EARLY PUPPY EDUCATION
ANIMAL BEHAVIOUR PROBLEMS
No Shouting! No Choke Chains! No Punishment!
Early puppy education group (from 7 weeks of age)
Proof of inoculation is required.
All Breeds of dogs and all ages most welcome!
Domestic and show, fun dog training classes.
Flyball, trick training & dog sports (games) available.
Private tuition and home training available.
Evening agility & dog jumping classes .
Specialised clicker training available!
Behaviour consultations for problem pets.
Special “social” training class available!
E mail consultations available.
Pet “Matching”.
Settling of new pup’s/kittens.
Litter assessments.
Behaviour assessments.
Preparation of an existing dog/s for the arrival of a new human baby.
On sale – training equipment, treats, toys, chews, booklets on training/behaviour and more….
NEW – “Gentle Paws” Dog Grooming Parlour!
A new concept in dog grooming!
Providing a safe, gentle experience for your pet.
To book an appointment to have your dog groomed please contact Emily at 082-923-9317
“Gentle Paws” -Your dog in safe hands!
For Gentle Solutions! Contact Louise.
Louise Thompson - Accredited Animal Behaviour Consultant and Professional Animal Trainer:
Accredited with the ABC of SA (©®™)
(011) 969-4467 082-890-0905 louthomp@mweb.co.za
Training grounds – Plot 72, Fifth Road, Cloverdene, Benoni
Consulting rooms – Plot 72, Fourth Road, Cloverdene, Benoni (consultations by appointment only)
EARLY PUPPY EDUCATION:
Pups may be admitted from about 7 weeks of age. Proof of inoculation is compulsory! Puppy school is a time and place where puppies and owners are educated. The aim is to produce a well adjusted, socially acceptable adult companion animal. All exercises are taught as fun games and learning methods are reward based, using the concept of positive reinforcement!
What we cover in class:-
Ø The principles of positive reinforcement learning
Ø Natural bite inhibition & passive, non-confrontational human leadership skills
Ø Leash skills – how to get your pup to walk on a loose leash
Ø Confidence building exercises – to produce a well adjusted pup
Ø Inter-canine social skills
Ø Teaching your pup to reliably “come” when he is called
Ø Handling and examination skills
Ø Basic canine communication and behaviour
Ø Puppy stages of behavioural development
Ø Basic “play” obedience exercises (sit, down, stand, recall, fetch, leave, wait etc)
Ø Teaching your pup to concentrate and focus
Ø Teaching the pup not to run away with your valuable possessions
Ø Basic puppy behaviour problem solving
Ø Basic puppy and dog care
Ø An accompanying in depth homework book is provided for all new students
Classes are held each Saturday morning at 8:00. Handlers are expected to be prompt and be at the grounds 10 minutes before class. They are also expected to clean up after their pups, to “scoop the poop”. Do not feed your pup prior to class as food is used as a motivator/training tool. Pups with a full tummy tend to sleep through the entire class – not conducive to learning!
WHAT TO BRING TO CLASS: (Please wear old clothes!)
Ø A hungry pup restrained on a light, flat collar (or harness) and soft leash
Ø Soft yummy dog treats
Ø A shallow water dish
Ø Dog brush and vitamin tablets – for pill taking & grooming practice
Ø Toys for playtime
Ø A large sense of humour, and a willingness to learn new things
Held under the direct supervision of our accredited animal behaviourist Louise Thompson, and our experienced, understanding instructors. All exercises are performed individually and gentle methods are found to suit each individual puppy and handler.
We “LOVE” Puppies!
DOMESTIC OBEDIENCE / SHOW OBEDIENCE
DOG SPORTS / SOCIAL CLASSES & MUCH MORE
Should you be experiencing any problems with your pet a behaviour evaluation may be require. This might need to be undertaken prior to integration into a training class.
Saturday classes are listed below:-
Ø Early puppy education class: Held at 8:00 am. This class includes “puppy one and puppy two” levels of early learning and education for pups and owners.
Ø Puppy three level – Held at 10:00 am.
Ø Specialised clicker class – Held at 10:00 am. This group is a specialised training methodology class, using the clicker as a positive reinforcement “marker” to mark wanted or desired behaviours.
Ø Introduction to dog training – Held at 1:00 pm. This group is for dogs and owners who have not had the advantage of attending the early puppy education group. For dogs and owners who have not trained before.
Ø Elementary Beginner – For dogs who have been through the early puppy education programme or completed the Introduction to Dog Training Programme
Ø The following four levels are held at 3:00 pm on Saturday afternoons
Social Class – for non-competitive handlers – fun and games with your dog.
Elementary Beginners / Beginners Class.
Novice Class/A Test / C Test Class.
Dog Sports Class – Fun mental exercise games and various dogs sports (ball pool, target retrieve, fly-ball, cross country, tricks and games). For dogs who are reliable off leash and have a reasonable level of obedience and social skills (all exercises are off leash)
We do not run our school like a military boot camp! All exercises, at all levels, are taught as fun games. Specially developed exercises make learning fun, for both owner and dog. All learning is achieved using positive reinforcement methods only. No chains, no yelling, no punishment, and no jerking of leashes!
THURSDAY AGILITY AND DOG JUMPING CLASS: Our agility class is conducted on Thursday evenings commencing at 18:30 pm. As all work is off leash, a basic level of obedience is required.
PRIVATE TUITION: Private tuition and home training is available on request (booking is essential). It is always preferable to bring your dog to class to promote canine socialisation/learning with distractions.
DOG PARK: All Paws Abilities students have access to the training grounds every Tuesday. This provides owners with a unique opportunity to be able to give their dogs some off leash playtime in a safe, fully fenced large area.
WE PROVIDE: Safe rural environment; Club house & shade areas; Toilet facilities; Exercise areas.
Regular fun events and social’s; A regular informative newsletter; Dog shows/fun days/charity events; We have on sale:- Gentle, non-confrontational, passive, dog training equipment; Toys; Treats; Chews; Behaviour and training books and booklets; Cold drinks and various refreshments;
Our team of specialised dog training instructors are a dedicated group of highly experienced individuals, and have experience in the following areas: Many years practical experience in their fields. Competitive achievements within the Kennel Union / Federation organisations, in one or more disciplines: Regular attendance of training seminars/workshops: Dog “Breed” knowledge: A sound scientific knowledge of basic canine behaviour. Knowledge of the critical stages of early canine development: Knowledge of many different, gentle, non-confrontational, positive reinforcement, training methods; People skills, the desire to learn, an open mind, and a sense of humour!
We “LOVE” all Dogs……….
We even “LIKE”, some of their Owners!
“Gentle Paws”
Your Dog – in Safe Hands
“Gentle Paws” - A New Concept in Dog Grooming!
Your dog’s comfort and safety ensured!
# The owner of Gentle Paws performs all grooming/washing/bathing/clipping.
# No assistants! No helpers! No stress! Unhurried, gentle, dog grooming.
# Difficult and problem dogs welcome.
# No overbooking – only a limited amount of dogs will be booked per day.
# Open-plan parlour – owners are welcome (and encouraged) to sit and enjoy a
cup of coffee and watch/wait/read a book while their dog is being groomed.
Gentle Paws has nothing to hide!
# Competitive prices – no hidden costs. Prices for dogs with badly mattered or
un-kept coats available on enquiry – up front!
# All dogs washed with warm water – All year round!
# Day-run/exercise area for large breeds to let off steam before grooming.
# Early puppy accustomisation programme. Get your puppy used to grooming
from an early age – this prevents grooming and handling problems later on in
life!
# Collection and delivery service available on request.
# Safe, calm, fully-fenced rural environment.
# On Sale: Gentle dog-training equipment, dog toys, treats, and yummy chews.
To book an appointment contact:
Emma Thompson @ (082-923-9317)
Electronic address. louthomp@mweb.co.za
“Gentle Paws” is run under the guidance of an accredited animal behaviour consultant
and abides by the same values and principles as
Paws Abilities Behaviour and Learning Centre.
If you have a dog with GROOMING ISSUES – WE CAN HELP!
Gentle, non-confrontational, gradual accustomisation programmes
(Positive reinforcement methods only) undertaken for dogs with grooming issues.
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