Paws News September 2007

Paws Abilities Behaviour & Learning Centre:
Newsletter Number 10 – September 2007:

A warm welcome to all Pawsabilities friends and family. I have tried to be as diligent as I can with the newsletter. Please – please – please ….. I need your feedback. Is this the format you want? What about content? Is there any kind of information that you would like included. I need to start a “Letters to the editor” section!!!! So come on, get off your butts, and start giving me some feedback! All comments will be printed good, bad, and or ugly!


FEEDBACK ON THE FIRST AND SECOND DOG BEHAVIOUR & TRAINING WORKSHOP:
Great attendance for both workshops! A big vote of thanks goes out to Rose and Maureen for their wonderful catering!
Thanks also to Mandy and Siobhan for giving such informative and entertaining talks and of course to all the people who attended!

Even though on both occasions the weather was not with us – both workshops went off without a hitch.
The comradely and interaction from the audience was fantastic. A really great group of caring dog people.

Such a lot of information was shared I don’t think it’s possible to even surmise it in such a short available space – so if you weren’t able to make it, I strongly suggest that you book your place for the last two. We are covering even more exciting topics. I will send them out as a separate mail for easier reading.

Suffice it to say – we are already planning events for next year. We are probably going to be putting on specialist days (with your dog) and concentrating on specific problems! More soon.

The proceedings are available for the first two workshops at R35 each and the cost of snail mail (whatever that is) Please drop me a line should you want a copy and I will have them printed and post on to you.

Don’t forget to book your place for the last two workshops!



TWELVE THOUGHTS TO A BETTER BEHAVED DOG:
Control the dog and you will control the situation. By putting on a collar and lead, you can control the dog. For many dogs, their training equipment means business, not playtime, and this can help in a problem situation. A dog who is on lead cannot run away or chase people or other animals.
Be positive. Instead of saying "NO", try giving your dog something positive that he can do for you, such as "Sit", or "Heel". This positive approach means you can praise generously for his good actions, instead of simply yelling at him. For example, a dog that jumps up can be told to sit, and helped if necessary, then praised for sitting.
Allow a dog to be a dog. Often, what owners consider problem behaviour is simply normal dog behaviour that they find unpleasant or annoying. For example, digging is a natural canine activity but distressing to a garden proud owner. Instead of scolding for what comes naturally, it might be kinder to set up an area in which you have buried small treats to make it more attractive than the rest of the yard, and praising your dog for digging in "his" garden.
Whenever natural behaviours conflict with what you might like, be creative and see if you can find an outlet for those interests and activities that is suitable for you both.
Be consistent. It is unfair to the dog to change your rules depending on what you're wearing, who's visiting, or the kind of day you've had. If your dog is allowed on the furniture, he will be confused when you yell at him because Aunt Bess is visiting and she doesn't think dogs should sit in chairs! If he's allowed to jump up when you're wearing jeans and a sweatshirt, don't be surprised if he can't tell the difference between that and your best evening gown. Whatever your rules are, keep them consistent.
Have your dog earn what he wants. While everyone needs a few freebies now and then, your dog will not think you are a wonderful owner if you play with him, walk him, feed him, and pet him whenever he demands it. In fact, this often creates problems since from the dog's point of view an owner who can be "trained" this well is not one who deserves much respect. Teach your dog to say "please" by sitting, laying down or following some other command before he gets what he wants.
Be clear. Owners often confuse dogs by changing the words or commands, repeating them over and over again without showing the dog what is meant, and worst of all, assuming that the dog understands. When in doubt, gently show your dog physically exactly what you mean, giving the command at the same time so that he can associate the two. Use clear, matter of fact commands when addressing your dog, and be sure that your praising tone is excited, enthusiastic, and upbeat.
Remember that while we use words to communicate, dogs are masters of reading body language. If your body language tells the dog one thing, but your voice tells the dog something else, chances are he will believe your body language. This is why people who bend towards their dog and shake a finger at them while scolding "No, no, no" often receive a playful bark -their body posture is much more like a dog inviting play than a dog who is annoyed or angry.
Exercise, exercise, exercise! The most common cause of problem behaviour is boredom and a lack of sufficient exercise. While you work or go out, your dog has little or nothing to do, and his need to exercise will not go away. A familiar yard or house is boring, and few dogs exercise on their own without interaction with their owners. Take the time to play with your dog, jog with him, walk in the woods, swim, or take long brisk walks each day. A tired dog is always a well-behaved dog!
Provide mental stimulation. Dr. Roger Abrante's suggestions regarding using 1/3 of your dog's diet for treats to be earned during training, 1/3 to be given as usual in a food bowl, and 1/3 to be "hunted" (try a Buster Cube, an ingenious toy which the dog must persistently work with to receive a few kibble at a time. Even a border collie will be amused by this for hours! Buster Cubes are available from your local pet store or from DogWise.com.) This "home alone" 1/3-1/3-1/3 program helps your dog expend some energy and provides much needed stimulation.
Understand your dog's genetic heritage. Whether you own a Doberman or a Beagle, a Samoyed or a Westie, it is important to understand what your dog was bred to do. Owners often forget that the behaviour that prompts a dog to run or stay close, hunt or guard, chase and kill or herd, work with people or work independently are all the result of generations of carefully selected traits. Research your breed's history, and talk to people who understand your breed's characteristics. You may find that Rover’s tendencies, while annoying or amusing, are precisely what makes him what he is. You can then decide how best to work with your dog’s instincts and where you need to concentrate training efforts.
Train your dog. Every dog should have basic manners, but dogs are not born knowing how to behave. Take the time to train your dog on a consistent basis using kind, positive methods. Find a class near you whose methods and philosophies you like. If faced with a behaviour problem you can’t solve, ask people you trust for a recommendation of an experienced trainer and get professional help fast. The sooner you begin working on a problem the sooner you will have it solved.


ARE YOU THE LEADER OF YOUR PACK?
Copyright: David Appleby 1999

You used to hear people suck on their teeth, like car mechanics do when they are about to tell you the bad news, and say "that's a dominant dog" as if the owner's cherished pet had popped out of the womb that way. Whatever a dog's physical capacity to become high ranking within a given group a sense of its ability to achieve it has to be learnt. This is developed by observing the signals from, and remembering the outcome of interactions with, other members of the group.
There are many variables in each dog to dog and dog to person relationship. In fact, the situation can change from one scenario to another. Imagine for a moment that you are a dog walking towards another. It has got food. Do you want to go spoiling for a fight?

There are three things to consider.
1. What has been your previous relationship with this dog, have you or it been pushover or are the honours even?

2. Is the prize worth having? There may be a big difference between its desire to guard, and your desire to get, a chocolate bar and a bowl of cold porridge, but this depends upon how you feel about cold porridge.

3. Are you going to get hurt? Even if the other dog has lost to you in the past it is in possession of the item. Therefore, even if you are top dog it may just not be worth the effort. If you think you can win, you really want the item and you've got nothing to loose go-ahead and take it. If you are right, the other dog will predict it will come off worse if it challenges you and will give way.

The Problem
The signals dogs get from other pack members tend to be genuine and, although subtle, unambiguous. However, within the family, the dog’s adoptive pack, the wrong signals are sometimes given which results in faulty learning and relationship problems. Think of the example above and ask yourself if you are a dog with a bone will you give it to another dog?
If you do, is that dog more or less likely to think you are weaker than it is. If it thinks you are weaker, is it more likely to throw its weight around or challenge you in other situations? Now let us put the questions in a family context. If you are wandering about the house with a piece of toast and you break some off and give it to your dog is it going to see you as a stronger member of the pack or a weaker one? If the answer is weaker, is your dog more or less likely to challenge you in other situations?

Applying Rules
You can apply rules in their literal sense or you can adopt a policy of making it clear to your dog that you are in control by telling it to comply with a request first so that it "earns" the resource, egg. you may tell it to sit before you stroke it if it is seeking attention. These variations on a theme are not contradictory because the application of the rules is on a sliding scale. How you impose them is dependent upon what seems necessary, which you can only judge from your dog’s behaviour. Prior to maturity however, dogs will not necessarily show the consequences of receiving the wrong signals from the group it lives with. Whatever your dog’s age, if a rule does not seem very important to it concentrate oneness that are.


ATTITUDE ADJUSTMENT PROGRAM
By Sally Longworth (UK)

VERY IMPORTANT: If your dog is exhibiting aggressive behaviour, immediately seek the assistance of an accredited animal behaviourist. Failure to do so could cost your dog his life! Your veterinarian, local animal shelter/rescue, kennel clubs or your dog's breeder may be able to refer you.

The aggression problem you are experiencing is a symptom of a confused relationship between you and your dog. Surprisingly, this is not uncommon, and it is understandable since two very different species are involved. Just as cultural differences exist between people, there are strong cultural differences between dogs and humans, which can lead to serious misunderstandings. Your human perception of your behaviour toward the dog is not the same as your dog's perception of the same behaviour. For example, you may pet your dog simply because you love him and want him to feel good. However, unless that attention comes as a result of the dog complying with your rules and wishes, he may perceive the attention as proof that you rank lower than he does in the family structure.

When dogs deal with other dogs, animals higher on the pecking order may elicit attention from lower ranking animals. Lower ranking animals rarely elicit attention from superiors, but when they do, they also "give" appeasement behaviours (such as grovelling on their belly, lying down, licking, etc.) to the higher ranking animal. When combined with many other mixed messages, something as simple as petting your dog whenever he demands without having to give you anything in return may result in your dog believing he ranks higher than you. This in turns leads him to believe that he does not need to respect or listen to you unless it suits him. Thus, when you try to insist, he may react aggressively.

Earning your dog's respect requires you to act in ways that he sees as worthy of respect - and the easiest way to do that is to control resources (the things that matter to him) and only provide them to him when he is cooperating with you. No need to deprive the dog, just the need to have him earn what he wants.

The most powerful tool you have to change your dog's behaviour is your attention. DO NOT use any kind of physical correction (grabbing the lead or collar or the dog himself) to force the dog to obey you.
Instead, walk away, refusing to acknowledge his existence for a few minutes. Then, in a nice tone of voice, ask again. If it is something the dog really wants, such as his food, playtime, a walk, or whatever, you will usually get his cooperation within a few tries. Eventually, this new rule starts to sink in - "The ONLY time you get what you want is when you cooperate."

Reward all positive behaviour with praise. When withdrawing attention is not possible, or leads to the dog increasing his objectionable behaviour, try putting him outside alone in the yard for a few minutes, or into a room or his crate for a time out. Use a treat if needed to get him outside or into the crate. This does not reward him for disregarding any previous commands, but does reward him for cooperating with your last request of" outside" or "in your crate”.

Whenever you find yourself frustrated, give yourself (and the dog!) a break with some time out. Dogs are easily confused by emotions such as anger and fear (their own or yours), so if you lose your calm, sensible approach, avoid further problems and separate yourself and the dog briefly until you feel ready to try again.

Be aware that as you change the rules, the problem behaviour may escalate briefly as the dog pushes harder to see what the limits are. It is helpful to write down a daily record of aggressive incidents so that you can begin to see the patterns of frequency (how many times does the behaviour occur?) and intensity (how far does the behaviour go?). Changes will not occur overnight, but gradually over a period of time. A written record helps during times of frustration. For example, when it seems that nothing is happening at all, the written record may show that in fact, the behaviour has decreased from 9 times a day to only 4. This is a significant improvement!

To resolve this behaviour problem, you will need to change your own behaviour so that your dog can begin to clearly perceive his place in the family structure as the least ranking member, and under the control of all family members, including children. All family members must agree on this program, and be faithful in adhering to it, or you will doom the dog to failure and possible death.

NO FREE LUNCH - Your dog must learn to value your attention, playtime, and food. From now on, he will receive nothing from you without giving you something in return such as a sit. For example, if he would like to be petted or have a toy thrown, he must sit promptly on the FIRST command. You may then pet him briefly or throw the toy once or twice. If he fails to sit, ignore him and do not give him any attention or petting for at least 3 minutes. You may then try again.

PUT ALL TOYS AWAY - Leave one or two toys to chew on and that the dog can play with by himself. Put all other toys away - these will now be the toys that you use to play with the dog. YOU will now choose playtime, when it begins, when it ends, and what the rules are.
DO play with your dog, but expect him to do something before you throw the toy. If he refuses, quietly get up, put the toy away, & ignore him for at least 4 minutes

PUT FOOD UNDER YOUR CONTROL - Free choice feeding is a poor idea for dogs that are not by nature meant to nibble all day. At specific times, you feed your dog, and use this time to make him really work for his meals. Remember, you may be giving him a hundred or more "training opportunities” in each bowl - make him work by sitting for just 2-3 kibble in his bowl at a time.
Have him sit, put 2-3 kibble in his bowl, and insist that he stay sitting until you tell him "OKAY, Eat". If he moves or jumps toward the dish, calmly put it back on the counter for a minute or so, then try again. When he will politely sit and wait, allow him to eat the few kibble, then reach down, take the bowl, move a few feet away, ask him to sit (and WAIT), put the bowl down in the new spot and repeat with a few more kibble. You can work with this all over the house & yard, expecting him to sit and wait politely in all rooms before receiving a few kibble. The 10-15 minutes to "serve" a meal in this fashion is time is well spent.

If he decides he'd rather not eat rather than play by your rules, quietly put the food away and then try again at the next meal. Dogs will not starve themselves. It may take up to 4-5 days before your dog decides that he values his food enough to work with you on your terms. If this seems a little heartless, think hard about the reason this step is necessary – you have allowed your dog to get dangerously out of control, and he has either bitten someone or threatened to. A biting dog is not only a huge legally ability, but sooner or later, may have to be put to sleep. Being firm at this stage could save your dog's life.

CONSIDER CHANGING FOODS - Your dog may not have skin problems, diarrhoea, vomiting, or other obvious signs of allergies, but in my experience, behaviour problems, irritability, poor appetite, excessive stool and/or gas, recurring hot spots or ear infections point to possible food allergies or food intolerances. Many dogs receive far too much protein, which is converted into energy which can be a problem if the dog has no acceptable outlet for that energy. First, evaluate the protein - see if you can lower it by switching to another food. Try a food whose main ingredients are unlike your current dog food. If, for example, your current dog food contains chicken and corn, seek out lamb & rice, turkey &barley, duck & potato, etc. In addition, read the labels on treats - full of calories, high protein & stuffed with chemicals, sugars, salts &preservatives, many dog treats are not a great addition to your dog's diet.

EXERCISE - A huge percentage of problem dogs do not receive sufficient exercise. Increase your dog's exercise by long walks, jogging, playing in the back yard or whatever he enjoys, and keep it regular and vigorous. Remember - unused energy has to go somewhere, and a tired dog is usually a good dog.

WHEN IN DOUBT, WALK OUT. Use your dog's natural desire for your attention to work for you. If the dog becomes aggressive when asked to do something, simply withdraw your attention. This may mean you need to go into another room and shut the door for a few minutes. When you re-enter the room, use a treat to call the dog to you, then ask him to sit or lay down, rewarding him for showing you his willingness to work with you. If he does not comply, walk away again.

USE TRAINING EQUIPMENT - Rather than grab a dog who is misbehaving, you are better off leaving a training collar and lead on him while you are with him. (Never on an unattended dog.) If appropriate, quietly pick up the leash and gently reinforce the command. Be calm but firm.

ANTICIPATE PROBLEMS - Knowing what situations may trigger your dog's aggression and his body language changes will allow you to prevent this behaviour from occurring. For example, if your dog is aggressive when people enter the house, have him on lead and sitting as they enter, instead of trying to stop him from running around out of control and biting. Whenever possible, help the dog substitute desirable behaviour for his problem behaviour and PRAISE!

TRAIN - Initially, you may need to work on your dog's behaviour and your relationship with your dog in private lessons. Once your dog's basic problems are under control, enrol in a basic obedience class to help your dog become a more enjoyable companion, and improve your overall relationship with your dog. Remember, training is a lifetime process, not a quick fix. The sooner you begin, the more years you will have to truly enjoy your dog.


AVOIDING POSSESSIVENESS IN PUPPIES AND DOGS:
The puppy or dog should never be permitted to own his own toys or have exclusive rights to his own possessions. This does not mean that he should not have A HUGE NUMBER of doggie chew toys left lying around in the garden and house to vent his teething frustration on – he must! What we are talking about is his favourite toy or special toy. Many dogs become attached to certain items, often to the point of obsession - and aggressive possessiveness can result from this.

If your pup or dog becomes “hooked” on any play object, the dog/pup should only have access to the object when you permit it.
The object/toy, should then be permanently under your control.
The special toy would only be brought out at YOUR INVITATION, and played with ON YOUR TERMS ONLY. Thus you must decide when to play, and with what to play with, and you must decide when to end the game!

At the end of each game (that you have initiated and ended), the toy must be taken away from the pup and put away, until you are in the mood again. Do not let the pup demand to play with the toy, all decisions must be yours.

Remember to be a good pack leader the owner must be a clear decision-maker. From the pup or dog’s point of view you as the leader must be the one who makes all the decisions. The leader of the pack is also the one who claims the ownership of valuable commodities and resources.

The pup/dog must view you, who, as the leader have been very generous to initiate play. (Only the higher status animal in the pack would do so) and at the end of the game the to is put away until the next time you - as pack leader initiate plat when You (not the dog) are in the mood! (10 minutes / 10 hours it does not matter)

Practise taking toys and other objects out of your puppy’s mouth with the command “Leave” As pack leader you should be able to remove any item from your pups mouth at anytime that as leader is your privilege! If this is a problem try to perform a “trade” i.e. swap the object for a favourite chew or permitted toy – even a treat can work wonders until the habit of “leaving” on command is perfected.

DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE OBJECTS/BONES/TOYS FROM ADULT DOGS UNLESS YOU ARE CERTAIN OF THEIR REACTIONS – ESPECIALLY WITH UNKNOWN DOGS!!!
Remember there are no medals for bravery!


Do Dogs Know When they’ve Done Something Wrong?
By Sally Denver (USA)
Dogs who have been punished before for something often give the impression that they 'know' they have done something wrong. So what does this really mean, when have they really learned not to do something, and how will it help you with training?
Dogs who are punished will often display what behaviourists call 'avoidance behaviour' or 'appeasement behaviour'. They very quickly learn how their owner behaves prior to dishing out a punishment, and will display this avoidance or appeasement behaviour before the punishment even commences. Many dog owners interpret this as proof that the dog "knew" what he did was wrong. Unfortunately, for both dog and owner, this is a misunderstanding. Why unfortunate? The owner thinks his dog is deliberately being naughty, and the punishments can escalate. What's more, the owner now believes that the dog is simply being disobedient, and can fail to take a course of effective behaviour management or training.
A dog will demonstrate that punishment has been effective when the punished behaviour stops. Whether the dog knows it is 'wrong' or not is not something we can really 'know' at this stage in our evolution - after all, dogs can't talk and we can't read minds. An example - one dog owner complained that his dog was escaping from his yard. The owner had heavily scolded the dog for this behaviour in the past, as his last dog was run over and killed after escaping from the yard. Now the dog would cringe when returning from his outings. To confuse the issue even more, when a third party told the owner that his dog had been seen outside the yard, the dog again cringed, picking up the subtle signs that his owner was angry and upset. Dogs are very attuned to this sort of thing.
The dog had learned what to look for when a scolding was about to come. He had also learned that returning to the yard resulted in a scolding. He did not learn to stay in the yard at all, had he learned this he would not have escaped. We only know that a punishment is effective if the behaviour stops.
The owner escalated scolding to the point of physical abuse, desperate not to lose another dog on the road. He believed that his dog knew that leaving the yard was 'wrong', because his dog cringed when he returned. With this belief firmly in the owner's mind, it didn't make sense to take more effective action such as installing a better latch on the gate and a spring to automatically shut the gate when visitors forgot to shut it. He was blinded to these more sensible and effective options, because he truly believed that his dog already 'knew' not to leave the yard.
I can only feel sorry for this dog and his owner. Yet another of this poor fellow's dogs will probably be lost, stolen or run over by a car and I know that he genuinely has a deep love for his dogs. Unfortunately, he was convinced that his dog 'knew' he had done something wrong and was therefore only being disobedient.
Even if his dog did know that he had done something wrong, the scolding was clearly not effective as the dangerous behavior continued unabated. Why bother? There are better options, such as improving fencing and gates, providing environmental enrichment by way of toys or treat-balls, and taking daily walks on-lead.

Dogs and Fireworks: A Top Ten Survival Guide - International Association of Canine Professionals
Dogs need to be prepared long in advance for the upcoming November 5 fireworks:
“The noise of fireworks can be extremely stressful for dogs,” said Cyndy Douan, president and director of education of the International Association of Canine Professionals. “The dog professionals at IACP recommend these top ten strategies to America’s dog owners, to help them through all the November and year end festivities.”

1. OVER A LONG PERIOD OF TIME – DO GRADUALLY expose your dog to loud, unexpected noises on a regular basis, especially leading up to a long weekend where fireworks are used. Drop pot lids, toss a soda can with a few pennies in it, slam a door: anything to get your dog accustomed to being startled, so he can practice recovering quickly.

2. DO NOT bring your dog with you to a fireworks celebration.

3. DO provide your dog with a safe, comfortable place that will help him/her feel more secure amid the scary sights and sounds. Close the blinds to keep out the flashes of colour in the sky, and turn up the television or some music to help muffle the sounds.

4. UNLESS YOUR DOG IS ALREADY CRATE TRAINED, AND VIEWS THE CRATE AS A SAFE HAVEN -DO NOT lock your dog in a crate; a panicked, frightened dog can easily injure himself in a crate.

5. DO ask your veterinarian if an herbal remedy or prescription sedative may be appropriate for your dog.

6. DO consider giving your dog a highly valued chew toy before the fireworks celebration begins, which may help to keep her mind off the disturbance.

7. DO attach a “house leash” to your dog, to act as an extra long handle, should your dog try to escape or run away.

8. DO NOT comfort or “baby” your dog if he is afraid. Dogs take their cue of how to behave from their owners; if you are acting “strange” by offering soothing words and gestures, your dog may interpret your actions as praise for being frightened, or a confirmation that the fireworks are truly scary.

9. DO act as normal and as “matter of fact” as possible, to help your dog understand that there is nothing to worry about.

10. Most importantly, DO ensure your dog is wearing proper identification in case he manages to escape.


OBEDIENCE SHOW TIPS:
Successful obedience showing is the result of many hours of solid work with your dog.

However, there are a few things you can quickly fix that will help you get better scores.
These include improving footwork; fixing handler errors; and decreasing your own nervousness in the ring.

Most of the tips below should first be practised WITHOUT the dog, until the handlers signals and cues are perfected!

How to improve heeling:
Be consistent. Keep moving. Stay out of the way of your dog. You are the team leader and must give timely and correct signals to the dog. Practice correct footwork without the dog. Then, when you are working with your dog, your improved footwork will come naturally. Correct footwork gives the dog a better chance to be right because he "sees" a signal before the change of direction.

There are several methods that work very effectively. The important thing is to select one method that works well for you and your dog and stick with it for now. Some modifications might need to be made as you and your dog progress in the training process due to how fast the dog works and the size of your dog. Practice walking in a straight line by walking on lines in a parking
lot, or lining yourself up with floor tiles in a long hallway.


The first step of “heeling”.
Starting on the left leg: Probably best for the slower or less attentive dog. Starting on the right leg: Probably best for the fast, ready to go dog. This start has a tendency to keep the dog in more of a straight line when beginning to heel and avoids a bump on the first step.

Modifications:
The length of the first step of heeling depends on how fast the dog works and the size of the dog. Don't leave your dog behind because you took too big a step!

Halts
Feet: It is best to teach the dog to stop whether you plant the left foot and bring the right foot up or vice versa. (Note: the "plant" of the foot should be a soft one.) The length of the last step as you plant your foot depends on the size and speed of your dog.

The signal: What happens naturally when you stop walking? If you are clipping along in a hurry to get somewhere and must suddenly come to a halt, your upper body leans back just before you stop. In training, exaggerate the lean as you
plant your foot so your dog "sees" a definite signal before you stop. As time goes on, drop the exaggeration and just have the slight natural lean.

Change of pace
Just as in the halt where there is a natural backward lean to slow your forward motion and change your centre of balance in order to change to a slower pace, so too is there an opposite natural lean in order to speed up. When you start to go faster, there is a natural forward lean to change your centre of balance and collect yourself as you move out briskly. Exaggerate these leans in practice. Then gradually wean the dog off the exaggeration to the natural.

Left and right turns
Round off your corners slightly. Rounded corners are much more smooth and natural looking than military style 90-degree turns.
You can signal the turn on either your left or right foot by swivelling your foot slightly before you actually begin the turn. Practice both because sometimes the dog will dictate which signal works best for your specific team.
Keep in mind that you must signal the dog before you actually turn, so you must initiate the turn in a straight line, then turn. Shorten your stride slightly through the turn and gradually move back to a normal pace.

Figure 8
The dynamics of this exercise dictate the footwork. You must maintain a consistent pace and distance around each post. Your dog should do the work changing pace - not you. There are things you can do to help your dog: Make sure you walk a straight line through the middle of the figure eight. In training, teach your dog "easy" and "hurry." Exaggerate these speeds in your training
session so your dog learns and understands the pace changes he will have to make.

About turn
This is the most difficult turn to execute well. You must be able to maintain your consistent pace through the turn while staying out of the way of the dog. Teach this exercise by luring the dog around the turn with a treat. Treat when he reaches heel position, if he has executed the turn quickly and accurately.

Make a game of it. A very fast turn earns the dog a bite of cheese or liver. A good turn earns the dog a bite of kibble. A slow turn earns nothing. You might say, "too slow, too bad." I do not believe that corrections or pulling the dog around the turn are effective in speeding up about turns. Keep training positive and make it fun for your dog.

Footwork for the about turn
Step 1. When judge calls "about turn," place your left foot in a "T" with your right foot.
Step 2. Pivot with your right foot.
Step 3. Small dogs. Bring your left foot around and step out in the new direction. Your step must be shorter for a small, or a slower
moving, dog.
Step 3. Large dogs. Bring your left foot around and step out in the new direction. Use a larger step for a large dog, or one that
moves very quickly around the turn.

Handler nerves
Practice deep breathing exercises (away from your dog) and repeat this mantra: "I am having fun; I am doing this for fun; this is what I do for fun; this is fun." Bev Watson

A friend of mine has a mantra she repeats to conquer "ring nerves." She's even set it to a cadence that matches her heeling. "I will float around the ring like smoke." Jill Morstad
Arrive in plenty of time. Keep track of when you show. Prepare to warm your dog up with a little heeling just before it is your turn in the ring. Mary Jo Gallagher

Getting into heel position to start
Always line up to start an exercise with a half or full circle to the left with a sit command as you come to a halt. Follow with praise. This gets the dog into the correct position with a minimum of fussing, gives you a chance to praise your dog, and makes you both feel more confident at the beginning of the exercise. Margie English

Recall
When you leave your dog for a recall, walk away with confidence and mentally mark the place at which you will stop and turn, not on a dime, but close to it. Bev Watson

Stand for exam
Make sure you have your hands off the dog when you say "stay." Lots of people do this and fail for a double command. Edell Marie Schaefer Be sure to leave the dog from heel position and return completely to heel position after the exam. Mary Jo Gallagher

Heeling
Keep moving at a brisk pace. Don't look back for the dog. Keep your feet together and keep moving on turns. Command, pause, move. Watch the heeling pattern and know it before you go in the ring. Don't over train the night before the trial.
Concentrate on your dog. Roger Greenwald

And a final few words from me - Louise,
Have fun. Be a good sport. If you win, do not gloat. If you lose, do not complain (at least not in public.)

Appreciate your dog and remember DOGS ALSO HAVE “OFF DAYS!”

BE UNDERSTANDING, IN THAT YOUR DOG IS NOT A ROBOT!


RELEASE OF LOUISE’S BOOK – “DISCOVER YOUR PUPPY’S PAWS ABILITIES”.
Well it is finally finished. Lots of blood sweat and tears (and lots of laughter – especially at my spelling and grammar)!
Anyway, the book has been described as a “no nonsense guide to choosing, purchasing and raising a well behaved puppy”, and covers from choice to adulthood. I have decided not to print it via publishing houses, as the cost is so prohibitive that most people would not be able to afford it. So am printing it in a soft spiral bound, cardboard/plastic cover to keep costs down.

It is about 140 odd pages (A4 / double sided) and a guesstimate is about R85 per copy (to cover the printing costs). Anyone with enquiries please give me a ring or drop me an e mail.
(011) 969-4467 louthomp@mweb.co.za or mobile 082-890-0905


Again I would like to remind you all, about the last two workshops to be held at the end of October and November (on the last Sunday of each month) and hope that you have booked your place – as places are limited due to the overwhelming positive response.

We certainly are considering holding more workshops in the near future.

Please give me some feedback re the newsletter and you are more than welcome to pass it on to anyone who is interested. They can also e mail me to be put on our mailing list. If you do not want to receive this newsletter and other news items and animal related information please let me know and I will gladly remove you from the list.

Happy Heeling

Louise
Paws Abilities Loves Puppies and Dogs!
We even “LIKE” their owners!