PAWS NEWSLETTER NUMBER 45 OCTOBER 2009
A warm welcome to all Paws Abilities, students, clients and friends! I must say it is a pleasure to write and distribute this little publication each month. It is read far and wide, and my mailing list grows by the day. It is thrilling to know it is read from the USA to NZ and even the UK – so who knows we might all become famous!
You are more than welcome to forward it to anyone who you think might be interested.
ANNUAL FUN DAY:
I am thrilled to announce that it was a HUGE success. The turnout was amazing and the reports back are that everyone had a ball and went home with a whole heap of lovely prizes!
We had built 12 different activities which had to be tackled in number order. Each station was manned, either by one of our instructors or a trusted volunteer. What was great that there was a prize available at each event. Entrants were supplied with a fantastic goodie bag – and many went home with their goodie bags bulging!
We had become so bored with the usual fun day games – the egg and spoon, the sack race, the three legged race etc. So this time we became really inventive! The field was set up like an assault course, and each event was numbered and had to be completed in number sequence!
The twelve events were:-
1. Mystic maze: - A huge vote of thanks to Mayo Dairy who so very kindly loaned us 250 milk crates which were lashed together with cable ties to make a sturdy (safe) maze for the dogs to find their handlers! What fun! Luckily it was sturdy enough to accommodate the couple of dogs who decided to take a short cut – over the top!
2. Rally obedience: – This is an obedience course with a difference! Instead of a steward barking instructions. We created a series of road signs which incorporated all the normal obedience movements – complete with speed limits 80km:
3. Handler hideout:- We had built species “hides” in our plantation of trees – carefully camouflaged and well hidden. The dog was gently restrained by a helper, whilst the owner hid – the dog was then released and had to find his handler.
4. Water retrieve:- A huge, huge vote of thanks all our students who donated, material, labour and expertise to build us our very own doggie swimming pool – complete with a deep end! It is a fantastic masterpiece of engineering! The dogs loved to play “fetch” and it made a wonderful game for the fun day!
5. Log survivor:- Picture this – two logs (one large one for the dog to comfortably sit on) and the other smaller (for the human to balance on) The dog had to hold a “sit” for one minute – as did the handler. The catch is that the handler had to stand on one leg!
6. Country agility:- We have built a rustic cross country course – which incorporates agility and various other disciplines, made of study, non-slip poles and natural material. Great fun!
7. Up and under’s:- A series of large pole (fixed) solid jumps. Some higher – which the dog had to negotiate underneath and some lower, which the dogs had to jump.
8. Hulu hoop hula:- Two lines of hula hoopes, attached to the ground with a line – so that the can only be lifted a certain height. One short line, for the dogs – and one slightly longer line, for the handlers to negotiate through. Five each had to be negotiated!
9. Dazzle distraction:- A fun game of control. The dog was placed on a marker in a sit or down stay with the handler close by, and then .....................(drum roll) two assistants try to distract the dog to break his “stay” by calling him and making funny noises – the dogs did great!
10. Temptation ally:- An alleyway full of tempting toys, and food. The dog is gently restrained by the assistant, and is called through the alleyway. He has to go straight to his owner whilst resisting the temptation of the lovely goodies!
We had a great time and will be putting together something else in the near future. I would like to thank the ladies who helped with the catering, Denise your jaffles were DIVINE ! Grateful thanks to Sheryl and Joel for sorting out the cold drinks, teas and coffee’s. And to the kids who helped at the gate, were runners, and helped so very much. Guys we really appreciate all your hard work. Also grateful thanks to Rob who supplied the fantastic music, which kept us all going throughout the day.
Lastly to my wonderful instructors who worked tirelessly making such fantastic homemade prizes – they were really great (and much better than anything that could be bought!) In addition, to everyone who stayed behind and helped us to clean up – guys you are just amazing! I salute and thank you all.
I have no words to describe just how much I appreciate and value every single person who was involved in this day. I am so blessed to be surrounded by a very special group of people, and the words “thank you” seem to be totally inadequate!
| How Young is too young? Teach "Good Greet" to a shy dog. |
| Caller: "We've got two American Eskimo dogs. One is four and loves the world and everybody in it. The other is eight months old and loves the world but doesn't love anybody in it except a very select few people. She's very standoffish. This is very disappointing to many of our friends who love dogs and are absolutely crushed that our dog won't warm up to them. We got this dog at five weeks of age from the breeder who was moving and had to get rid of the puppies. My response: "Well, that alone could have a tremendous impact on this because in the life of a puppy one week is the equivalent of four months to a human child. When people say, "Oh, I just got it two weeks early", that's like eight months to a human. So there's no such thing as the phrase, "Oh, it's just a week." Let me tell you why. A dog's brain starts cognitive functioning - in other words, it starts learning stuff - at three weeks of age. For the first two and a half weeks there is no learning going on. It starts to learn, literally, at the twenty-first day of life. For the first 3 weeks, the only part of the brain that's active is the medulla and that's life-support only. In other words, they seek warmth instead of cold, they seek food, etc. It's just life support. The cognitive functions, the learning and the decisiveness do not begin until three weeks of age. Now when you got your dog at five weeks, she literally only had two weeks to learn everything the dog must know to prepare her for the rest of her life: how to relate to other dogs, how to trust, how to form strong social bonds, what to avoid, what to look out for, the difference between negative and trauma, etc. She has to learn all of those things from her sire, her dam, and her interaction with her littermates. Once she's seven to eight weeks of age she has learned those things already - in other words, they teach her how to be a dog. Now once she knows how to do that, we then transfer her into your home and let her use everything she learned in her litter to bond with you people. So the difficulty is that she came to you in a time in her development that she was just psychologically, mentally, and emotionally unprepared to do this. Now you did everything correctly. In other words, you treated her well and you socialized her widely, but unfortunately she did not bring you the building blocks to put those experiences to work positively. She did not use these experiences - as positive as they were - as a bonding tool to trust people because she did not have the stores in place to trust before you got her. She simply was too young to have learned that. So despite the fact that you apparently did many things correctly, she simply came to you too soon. Teach "Good Greet!" Since your other dog seems to be much more interactively dynamic pro-socially, you can use it as a role model. In other words, have your shy dog present when the outgoing dog approaches people playfully in a friendly way as if saying, "Hey, cool, people are here!" Have her witness it and when I say "have her", I mean that literally -- even it you must have her on a lead. You are using the outgoing dog as a role model. Then bring her gently but firmly to the visitors and let them offer her a wonderful treat so that the first contact she has with them is not just touch and affection, it's a treat. If you wish, you can give the other dog one as well, but make it happen. Don't be unusually harsh, just simply make it happen and result in a very positive thing. When your other dog greets people now, give this act a name. You could use "Say hello" or "Greet" as long as it doesn't sound like another command you use. It's much easier for an animal to learn an act if it has a cue to associate with it. When she greets somebody, don't just say, "Good girl, Good Fluffy" because she's always a girl and Fluffy. Even if she stays back, she's a girl and Fluffy. When she greets them say, "YES, GOOD GREET!" Now she understands that she can stay a little distressed by the visitor, for example, but she is always reinforced for the act of greeting. That is always a good thing. But until you give it a specific title, it's very confusing to the dog to know what you are praising. They have no way of knowing what pleased you unless you tell them. So let her know what it's called. You can even use the other dog to teach the word "Greet". Let her witness the other dog being reinforced for committing that act. Then get her to do it -- even if you use a light line -- and praise the act all the while. You are very likely to succeed because the entire process is based upon positive reinforces that she will enjoy earning. But use the other dog as a role model. Give it a try! |
Top five pet food myths
Pet food myth… Right or rubbish?
1. Chocolate is a killer for dogs - Right? …… In reality….* Dogs will eat pretty much anything you give them but did you know that when you give your dog a human chocolate treat you are poisoning them?
· Chocolate in any form is extremely toxic to man’s best friend as it contains a harmful chemical called theobromine, which is fine for humans but is very dangerous for dogs
· One and a half bars of chocolate could be enough to kill a small dog, such as a Yorkshire Terrier
· If your pooch has a penchant for chocolate it is better to give them a specially formulated dog chocolate which contains only good ingredients for your pet
2. Cat’s got the cream? Rubbish ……In reality….
· Cats may like the taste of milk but after they are weaned they often can’t cope with digesting it
· The sugar in the milk makes it hard for cats to digest and results in nasty tummy upset
· If your moggy is fine after drinking milk, then it is okay to give it as an occasional treat but water is the best thing to give to your cat if it is thirsty
3. Carrots are the best food for rabbits? ….. Rubbish…… In reality….
· Don’t believe everything you see on TV when it comes to feeding your rabbits. Despite Bugs Bunny’s favourite food being a carrot the reality is that carrots are not a great food to feed your rabbit
· Carrots are high in starch, making them hard to digest and making your rabbit feel unwell
· Why not treat your pet by feeding it flower petals, rabbits adore them
4. All dogs must be fed twice a day? …. Rubbish….. In reality….
· Dogs can have one, two, three or even four meals a day, the important thing is not to overfeed your pet
· Manufacturers guidelines advise on daily amounts – your dog’s appetite will depend on its size and lifestyle
· The key to a happy, healthy pet is feeding them the right kind of food and the right amount of food on a daily basis
5. Cats can’t taste as well as dogs? …. Right …. In reality….
· Our feline friends have a limited taste palate compared to their canine counterparts
· Cats only have 473 taste buds compared to a whopping 1,700 in dogs, and if you are interested humans have an impressive 9000 taste buds
· Cats may not have as many taste buds but what they do have is a sixth sense whereby they can use their tongue to smell food…quite impressive really
For more information on what you should and shouldn’t feed your pets please visit www.pfma.org.uk and ask our pet food expert for advice.
Q & A SECTION:
Question:
At what age have puppies with a bone been observed to growl when approached by a person.
A. 6 weeks
B. 5 weeks, after being weaned by their dams.
C. 2 weeks
D. 12 weeks
Question:
When teaching your puppy to come to you when called, what is the very first thing you want him to know when he hears you call?
A. That he/she must come instantly.
B. That you are talking to him/her.
C. That you are speaking urgently.
Answer:
B. The first word of every formal command, except "Stay," should be the puppy's name, which should signify to the pup "Tippy... get ready to DO SOMETHING!" That "something" will depend on the next command word, in this case "Come to me instantly." The "Stay" command uses no name because it is taught after the pup has already responded to "Tippy, Sit" and means we want him/her to "DO NOTHING." We always recommend a code word for "Come" because the word is so often spoken causally to and around puppies. We like the word "KOY," since it rarely used. For the same reason, we also recommend that everyone assign a nick-name to their pup and use it when talking ABOUT, but not TO the pup. This avoids wearing out the pup's name and the need to raise one's voice to get a pup's attention.
Question:
Your 2 year-old, spayed female Golden Retriever has started chasing her tail about two weeks ago. When she catches it, which is rare, she chews on it. She then gets up and starts chasing again. You have been told that her behaviour is called "stereotypy," which is purposeful, repetitive behaviour. Someone else said she probably suffers from OCD, an obsessive-compulsive disorder, which is stereotypy caused by a senseless, intrusive, persistent idea, thought, impulse or image. You are baffled, because your dog cannot tell you if she has "intrusive," etc. thoughts or images. You have also been told that there are new psychoactive drugs to treat these conditions. What should you do?
A. Ask the veterinarian to prescribe one of the new drugs.
B. Try one of the anti-anxiety herbal remedies.
C. Ask her veterinarian to perform a complete physical examination; complete blood tests, including chemical screen, thyroid function and allergies and a thorough spinal examination.
Answer:
C. Make sure your Goldie's health is not a factor. Many tail chasers have spinal misalignments, which can cause numbness or tingling in the tail; hence she tries to get at it to itch it or otherwise get rid of the sensation. We even had one case in which the problem was caused by a tick which was on the underside of the dog's tail. After the veterinarian removed the tick, the chasing stopped.
In any event, immediately with your Goldie, ignore the behaviour. You can reinforce it by giving her attention. Even scolding and/or stopping her physically from tail-chasing can actually reinforce it thus increasing the unwanted behaviour!
Question:
What is the best age for you to take a new puppy home from its litter?
A. 5 to 6 weeks old.
B. 7 weeks old.
C. 8 to 10 weeks old.
D. 10 to 12 weeks old.
E. 12 to 14 weeks old.
Answer:
B. 7 weeks is the very best time for a puppy to make the transition from its canine family to your human family. However, most pups do quite well if they are adopted between 6 and 8 weeks of age. Canine Behavior pioneers John Scott and John Fuller, in their book, now titled "Canine Behavior, The Genetic Basis" University of Chicago Press, 1965, placed both pure bred and mixed breed puppies during their landmark work at the Jackson Memorial Laboratory, Bar Harbor, Maine. The best (least problematic) adjustments were made by seven week old
puppies.
Question:
Your new puppy, "Skippy," balks when you put on the leash and collar (make it a flat buckle collar) and try to walk him. What's the best way to overcome this without dragging him or jerking on his neck, either of which may cause injury to his fragile spine?
Answer:
Once again, John Paul Scott and John L. Fuller's work with puppies at the Jackson Memorial Laboratories at Bar Harbor, ME, in the 60's showed the way, mentioned in the paperback edition of Dog Behaviour - The Genetic Basis. When their puppies balked while being taken across the building toward the examination rooms, where they were weighed and examined daily, the handler simply dropped the leash and walk onward. Lo! The puppies followed! This technique can be adapted for any balky pup. Simply go to the centre of an open area (but safe from traffic with no big distractions-the back yard or unused tennis courts are great). Put the leash in your pocket. Have the collar on the puppy. Put Tippy down at your left side, keep your head turned to watch her over your left shoulder and walk forward, away from the pup and say "Good Dog" as you start walking. Pat your left thigh with your left hand. If the she balks, kneel down on one knee, clap your hands and praise happily until she gets close to you, then quickly stand and move away again. Keep that left side toward Tippy. If she starts to go behind you, turn left and keep walking away, praising happily. In a few minutes she will stay with you for a few steps.
At that time, kneel down and praise and pet her. Hook up the leash and hold it loosely, so it can slip through your fingers if it starts to get tight. Then start the routine over by standing a starting off again. Tippy will probably go right along. If she balks, just keep moving, letting the leash slip through your hand until you get close to the end, then abruptly kneel and praise like crazy. She should come to you quickly, at which time you stand and start off again.
Keep this up until she has stayed with you for about a minute. Then end the session. Don't have another for at least 2 and 1/2 hours. Let the learning incubate. Then have another, preferably in a different area.
Question:
Most pet owners are convinced that their animals can think. Many owners believe animals can even think like humans, in words. What is the most likely way pet dogs and cats think?
A. In words, since they live with people and learn the meaning of words.
B. In images, in their "minds-eye" or "mind's ear."
C. In their brain's mental computer, like a software word processor.
Answer:
Probably B, but also including their mind's nose, touch, taste and smell senses.
One of the finest books any animal owner can read to gain insight about "animal thinking" is Temple Grandin's "Thinking in Pictures." It is fascinating, inexpensive and available quickly at http://www.dogwise.com
While our animals may not speak, they certainly remember the way we "sound" when we say their names, give commands, look happy, sound happy, maybe even smell happy, since body odours change with moods, as do our rates of breathing, heart rates, even the way we move. Animals are far better at reading human non-verbal signals and we are.
When should a puppy be taken out during the first stage of house training?
A. Every hour
B. Every two hours
C. When it is most likely to have to "go."
Answer
C. During the first stage the puppy should be shoo-ed out to, and through the door to its toilet place when it is most likely to feel the "urge." These occasions are:
After eating (see below*); after chewing for more than 2-5 minutes; when it sniffs around the floor; after waking from a nap; after getting excited.
The exception to this rule is the first meal, after getting up in the morning.
Puppies come from the litter "ready-trained" by their mothers to eliminate after eating. If you will feed the puppy right after it wakens, it will usually eliminate immediately after the meal. This is the perfect arrangement, since you have to be there to feed it, so continuing this biorhythm at home just good sense.
Question:
Your dog or cat suddenly starts acting "different;" i.e., doesn't seem to want to be petted and avoids contact; or, on the other hand, wants to be petted all the time, or seems anxious.
Is this strictly a behaviour problem?
___ Yes
___ No
Should you seek professional help?
___ Yes
___ No
If "Yes" whose help should you seek first?
___ A behaviour consultant
___ The pet's veterinarian
___ A trainer
___ An internet animal chat room
Answer:
"No," it is not necessarily strictly a behaviour problem. The pet's veterinarian should conduct a thorough examination because this type of behaviour is often the result of some physical problem. If one exists and is treated successfully, the weird behaviour often just goes away... if you don't dote and fuss over, or punish the pet.
Question:
Nearly every dog owner has heard about "flight or fight" behaviour among animal, especially dogs. They are both two elements of the animal's "defence reflexes," which are reactions to serious physical threats and which may be modified by experience, especially by the way a puppy's owner handles and/or punishes them.
How many different types of behaviour are in the dog's repertoire of Defence Behaviour?"
A. Four
B. Three
C. Two
Answer:
"Defensive Flight or Fight" behaviour is not the same as "Submissive or Dominant" behaviour, which are behaviourisms usually learned through social interactions among a maturing puppy's litter mates and later in pack life. When dogs are faced with what they perceive as a threat to their physical well-being, especially when they experience pain, they will take some kind of action. There are three different expressions of reflexive defence behaviour:
1. "Passive," in which dogs play 'possum' and freeze, often after attempting to appease an attacker by
submissively rolling onto a side or even onto their back, exposing the throat and belly.
2. "Active-fight," in dogs who will meet force with force, even if an avenue of escape is readily available to them.
3. "Active-flight," is shown by dogs who will retreat and/or run away; but, if no avenue of retreat is available,
they will fight fiercely to defend themselves.
When raising any puppy it is wise never to subject them to any physical punishment, since their in-built defence reflexes are part and parcel of nature's self-preservation equipment. In wolf and domestic dog packs, life-threatening treatment of subordinate animals by alpha males and females or dominant pack members is extremely rare. Dangerous fights are more likely to occur between low-ranking individuals and usually occur at feeding times when food is scarce.
In raising puppies and handling adult dogs it is important to remember that fear and anger are the two emotions that are stimulated by physical pain and punishment. However, fear and anger are not simply "states of mind;" they have physical, hormonal elements as well. Therefore, when a pet puppy or dog is physically punished, its body will prepared itself for defence, and the pet will experience an adrenaline surge which may trigger defensive biting.
The sorriest result of some of the popular punishment advice in books and even in videos today (scruff-shaking, muzzle-clamping, jowl-lifting, etc.) occurs after the adults in the family apply them, then an innocent child reaches for or grabs the dog's neck, face or mouth. If the dog growls or snaps, it is usually punished further by the adults, which creates a conditioned fear of the child and heightened defensive behaviour when the child again approaches, etc., etc.
Question:
Many puppies and adult dogs break their housetraining for no apparent reason.
A. Juvenile onset diabetes, even in adults.
B. Hot house temperature.
C. Poor personal hygiene habits
Answer: All of the above, but one of the most over-looked causes among male dogs is C.; poor personal hygiene of the guard hairs of the penis and under its sheath. Either a build-up of urine crystals on the guard hairs, or natural lubricants under the sheath. Insurance against both problems is a weekly warm, soapy water, wash-rag wash, followed by a warm, clear water rinse. By the way, A. and B. should both be suspected when any dog or puppy begins drinking more water and urinating more than usual.
Question:
"Randy" is your new, 7 week-old family puppy and you want to teach the fuzzy little Norwegian Elkhound to come, dependably, to you and your spouse when you call him. To accomplish this, you have wisely decided to use a code word, "koy," instead of "come," because "come" can get worn out through casual use around the house. "Koy" will be reserved as a 'panic command' for use only when life or limb are in danger. While training Randy, when is it best to call "Randy, Koy"?
A. When he is eating.
B. When he is looking at you.
C. When he is not looking at you.
D. When he is playing with a toy.
Answer:
C. When he is not looking at you. In real panic situations the dog's attention is nearly always off you and locked onto something away from you. The teaching technique isn't difficult, but it's important to get it right.
Question:
Both dogs and cats are often unnerved when their formerly four-on-the-floor human companions start acting like they are "out of physical control." Your baby, Debbie, is just beginning to walk, which can be best described as
"lurching about the room on the brink of falling down, followed by falling down, often screaming." Many dogs growl and try to avoid the baby when she or he falls. As a guideline, when Debbie first falls down and your dog, "Tippy," is watching, what is the best course of action for you to take?
A. Pick up Debbie and calmly put her in her play pen.
B. Laugh, move away from Debbie, pleasantly call Tippy to you and briefly pet him. Let Debbie get up alone.
We are considering holding a charity Christmas Carol’s by candlelight (with our dogs), over the festive season.
However, we would only be able to accommodate one dog per responsible person!
If we get a good response, this could become an annual event. SPCA Xmas cards will be on sale. Entry includes a candle and holder – light refreshments will be available. Please let me know if you are interested as we have to decide catering stuff etc. What do you think?
Anyway that’s about all for now – will let you know more info about the Carol’s with dogs by candlelight as soon as I have dates etc.
Cheers for now
Louise
Mobile 082-890-0905
Consulting Rooms (011) 969-4467
1 comment:
Amiable fill someone in on and this mail helped me alot in my college assignement. Thank you as your information.
Post a Comment