October 2005 Paws Newsletter

October 2005 Paws Abilities Newsletter

A warm welcome to all “Paws Abilities” students, clients’ friends, and family.

Circulation of this little newsletter is growing day by day and is being forwarded to people all over the country – I have received some good positive feedback from readers. If there is a subject that you would like us to cover, please give me, a shout and I will try to help. Should you know anyone who would like to receive this monthly little publication, please forward their details to me, and I will add them to the monthly mailing list. Also, if you know anyone who wants the back issues – I have saved them and can forward them on request.


K9 KIDS NEWS:
We are well on the way to getting this programme underway! Mandy is presently on an overseas trip, but will be returning in the next week or so then we are ready to organise our first selection of kids and dogs. In the November issue we will give you feed back of the first selection of the children and let you know how it all went:


STORMS AND THE SOUND SENSITIVE DOG:
We are well into spring now, and spring and summer Gauteng thunder storms will be setting in fast. If you have not already accustomised your dog to loud bangs and sounds or if you have a dog that is sound sensitive – it is not too late to help them.

It is most distressing to witness a dog who suffers from Brontophobia (fear of storms) or a dog traumatised by sound sensitivity. These dogs genuinely suffer from trauma and stress, and in extreme cases, there is sometimes no choice but to put them to sleep.

Fortunately, that only applies to the absolute minority and in most cases, this problem is treatable, or at least the problem controlled to a manageable level.

SEVERE CASES – VETERINARY ASSISTANCE NEEDED!
NB: If the dog is either a danger to himself or to others in the vicinity then it is possible that your veterinarian should be contacted and the dog be put onto some kind of drug therapy while following the programme outlined here.

In these dramatically severe cases you will need both behavioural therapy and drug therapy, when combined are often very effective in controlling this problem. Drug therapy alone will not solve the problem you will need a combination of drug and behavioural therapy to be successful in this regard. (Contact Louise for more assistance)

Ideally, one should prepare your dog/puppy from an early age getting him used to noise and other things that could frighten him using positive reinforcement. This is often achieved in puppy kindergarten school, where for example when the pups are allowed limited “free play” firecrackers are let off at a safe distance.

It has been found that if young pups are all happily playing and interacting together then the noises fails to bring about a negative response. After all, it is difficult to be afraid when you are having a good time! Puppy school should begin at about eight weeks of age to ensure a good foundation for your pup’s future development.

NOISE PHOBIA/FEAR OR STORM FEAR/PHOBIA / BRONTOPHOBIA:
There is a dramatic difference in the two problems, although similar are definitely separate issues. If your dog starts to show anxiety and stress, for example, extreme panting/hyperventilating, eyes dilated, uncontrollable behaviour, pacing or other obvious signs of distress BEFORE the storm is apparent to humans, then it is most likely that your dog has a fear/phobia (clinically called Brontophobia) regarding the storm itself. The dog’s response is to the drop in barometric pressure, and heightened levels of static electricity in the atmosphere. It is possible that this is a throw back to ancient dog (wild dog) behaviour.
Dogs in the wild often den and give birth to pups in vulnerable places such as riverbanks. If a bitch had a litter of pups, a storm could indicate a flash flood, which in the case of a nursing mother could be fatal to the pups.

If your dog only responds negatively to the sound of the thunder itself then it is more likely that the dog is sound sensitive. Although sound sensitivity is also traumatic, it is somewhat easier (though long term) to treat through gradual desensitisation.
Some behaviourist’s believe that this natural behaviour has simply been handed down through the generations, and is still present today in the modern dog!

CAUSES OF SOUND SENSITIVITY AND BRONTOPHOBIA: There are numerous other reasons that some dogs have these kinds of fears while others do not, and there can numerous contributing factors to this problem such as:-

Time of the year the pup was born. Winter pups often are more thunder and noise phobic than summer pups due to lack of exposure.
Genetics – some breeds are more prone to this problem than others are. The most common breeds in SA suffering from sound sensitivity and Brontophobia are Staffordshire Terriers, Border Collies, German Shepherd Dogs, and the SA Maltese. Dogs with naturally good or more exceptional hearing are often noise sensitive.
Poor imprinting from the mother – if the mother was fearful of storms or noise, it is very likely that this fear would be passed on to the pup during the impressionable stage of development, and often in later years, if that prodigy is permitted to breed the cycle continues.
The above is often found in dogs acquired from dubious sources or unethical breeders. An ethical breeder breeds not only for good looks – but also for temperament and positive behaviours!
Bad experience during a storm or a loud noise – the dog can have had a negative experience during a storm which could cause him to repeat the experience (real or imagined) and suffer the same stress as would be connected to the original bad experience (rather like human flashbacks)
Negative reinforcement of behaviour – it is possible that if the dog has ever reacted negatively to a storm, that the owner has comforted the animal.
Dogs perceive comfort as reward, so for the owner to “love the dog better” he is actually praising and actively encouraging the fear, which is subsequently rewarded by petting by the owner! (ignore/distract the negative and reward the positive)

Treatment of this problem depends on many things but largely on the severity of the animals fear or phobia. If you dog is one of the above then – (especially when you know that you are going out) be like a good boy scout BE PREPARED. Watch the weather report and see if how great the risk of a storm is going to be. Make sure the dog is safe and confined in a secure area and cannot get out of the property or through windows and cause an accident to either himself or others. Many dogs are run over each year while escaping in their panicked state! Consult with your veterinarian regarding when where and how to use the prescribe drug (available only from veterinarians)

With a small pup, do not make a big fuss about storms. If the pup appears to be worried do not comfort him as he would perceive this as praise for being fearful and you would thus be encouraging the behaviour. Ignore the negative and only reward him/praise him when he is behaving in an appropriate manner. Play with him – games like fetch, or hide and seek on a veranda or in the garage during a storm will really make storms more acceptable and remove any negative connotations for the pup. Use your imagination with young dogs – you will be amazed by the results!

DO NOT LOCK YOUR DOG IN A COURTYARD OR OTHER AREA WHERE THE SOUND CAN ECHO. In many modern suburban homes, there is a courtyard or washing areas surrounded by good high walls, often perceived to be an ideal place to confine a dog when stressed or panicked. BEWARE! The sound of the thunder/firecrackers will echo dramatically making it several folds louder. A dog’s sense of hearing is at least three times greater than ours please take this into account!!!! In the next issue we will cover some basic ideas to help the sound sensitive dog and give you some advice how to deal with the problem.


ALL ABOUT THE GERMAN SHEPHERD DOG:
Brief History: The Roman historian – Tacitus, wrote of the “wolf-like” dog of the country around the Rhine. It may well be, that the German Shepherd Dog, and its close Dutch and Belgian Shepherd relatives, have existed in much today’s form for thousands of years. By the beginning of World War One, the German Shepherd was popular throughout Germany, and swiftly spread to other parts of the world.

Today’s GSD: Indiscriminate breeding has unfortunately, produced both physical and some behavioural problems. Arthritis of the joints and other orthopaedic problems, eye disease, gastrointestinal disease, and other medical problems occur with a disturbing frequency. Equally as common (with poorly bred specimens) is nervousness, fearfulness, timidity and even aggression.
The result is that individual dogs vary quite considerably in both temperament and conformation. However when carefully and responsibly bred, socialised and trained, this is an excellent breed – calm responsive and obedient.

Country of origin – Germany
Date of origin – 1800’s.
First use – Sheep herding.
Use today – Companion pet, security and working animal.
Life expectancy – 12 – 13 Years.
Wight range – 34 – 43 kg
Height range – 55 – 66 cm
Other names – Alsatian, Deutscher Schaferhund
This breed produces large litters and their adult behaviour depends upon the genes they inherit, the way that they are treated by their mother and humans, and any other early experiences that they acquire.

The breed has a very high energy level and needs lots of space to exercise, regular walks off the property and training is a priority. If treated correctly they are loyal companions and workers, but do not respond well to harsh training methods, the result of which can often results in fearfulness and/or aggression.


LIVER MUFFINS
Using a shop instant muffin mix (or other flavour if you prefer),
Blend in one package of liver (about a lb./500g).
Use a blender and liquefy it all.
Plop the horrible looking mess in a pie pan and microwave it until it is cooked (About 15 minutes)
Check your own microwave though,
Watch for the muffin to be coming off the sides of the pan.
When it's done, leave it in the microwave till it's cool
As it's stinky when it's hot), and then bring it out when it is cool,
Then turn it upside down on a board
Cut it into whatever sizes you want.
They freeze well, and stay in your pocket nicely, without too many crumbs.


HOW TO DESENSITISE THE DOG / PUP TO A COLLAR AND LEASH
I regularly get calls from members of the public who want to start dog training, or just want their dogs to be able to walk on a collar and leash with manners! Dogs who are not coping on a collar and leash can not start in a dog training class immediately. Before any meaningful education can begin, a dog needs to become accustomed to the collar and leash, and be gradually exposed to the big bad world (to improve confidence & help him to adjust to a future training class). If this part of his early education is omitted, he will never be happy or confident in training, or when being taken for a walk.

Those of you who train here at “Paws Abilities” will often see new students taking their dogs for a walk in our back field behind the training area. This is to help the dogs (and owners) become accustomised to the sight and sound of the training environment - thus reducing stress levels and helping the dogs to associate the area with rewards and rewarding experiences. Stress inhibits learning, and it must be remembered that some 90% of aggression is based in fear, thus reducing fear and increasing confidence is essential to happy learning and good training!

In the past, most training methods used, involved force, making the animal conform to our will, and submit to what we wanted and expected of it, sometimes using brutal inhumane methods. The end-result was often a dog that was terrified of the leash, hated the collar and more often than not, associated the entire unpleasant experience with the handler! The dog would in time come to view his handler with distrust and fear, because of the negative association with these unpleasant experiences. In short these methods create a dog that probably will never be a happy worker, or enjoy the joy of even a simple walk in the park! Dogs that experience this kind of negative learning often end up as timid/fearful creatures, cringing when called and unable to cope with pressure. As a companion-animal, this would be a totally unsatisfactory human/canine relationship!

Why do so many dogs end up like this? Because the learning is based on FEAR as the motivation! Today we usually accept that this type of rough, thoughtless handling is unacceptable, and is counter productive if we want to produce a well-balanced mentally sound pet or working dog.

Going for a walk with your dog is supposed to be fun and a pleasure. It is not a pleasure being dragged down the road at a speed of knots, nor is it fun being pulled over because your dog decides that he wants to chase the neighbour’s cat when you pass through the gate! Another way not to have fun, is trying to walk a dog who refuses to walk, the dog who simply lies down and rolls over onto his back, or grows “roots” - freezes and refuses to move at all. Many dogs miss out on the fun of being taken for walks because they never learn how to walk in an appropriate manner on the leash.

Leash training need not be a battle, nor need it be difficult or even particularly time consuming. It can be done throughout the day during your daily household routines.

TO BEGIN - YOU WILL NEED:
· A calm RELAXED handler with a sense of humour!
· A suitable collar for the dog/pup. The first one should not be too thick or heavy but very light, and made of some kind of soft flexible material, such as soft cotton webbing or thin soft leather. It is also a good idea to get a collar that has a quick release catch, so that you do not have to fumble with catches and buckles!

NOTE: Training collars often referred to as choke or check chains should NEVER be used on a young pup. The delicate tendons and ligaments in their necks are not fully formed, and any yanking or jerking could cause permanent damage. If trained correctly from an early age – the use of a check chain should never be necessary!

BEFORE YOU BEGIN TO ACCUSOMISE THE DO/PUP TO THE COLLAR AND LEASH!
Do not let the dog think this is a big deal
· Be calm and relaxed – never begin to work the dog after a bad day at the office!
· Everything learned – from the dogs point of view should be a happy positive learning experience
· Smile!!! The dog quickly learns to read your body language and facial expressions, in fact he does this far better than you as a mere human! This body language is after all how dogs communicate among themselves.
· Do not run before you can walk. Perfect the first step or stage before moving on to the second.
· Remember – this is supposed to be FUN! You are working towards an improved relationship with your companion animal.
Do not comfort the dog/pup if he appears anxious or fearful – if you feel that you must respond, then rather smile and laugh! It is hard for you to look concerned when you are laughing – the dog/pup will view this as a sign that all is well!
Reward all positive behaviour and ignore all negative behaviour!

HOW TO GO ABOUT GETTING HIM USED TO THE COLLAR AND LEASH:
Put the collar on the dog/pup at meal times or when playing so that the animal can associate the feel of the collar with a rewarding experience.
Begin by attaching a thin piece of line to the collar, long enough to drag a bit on the ground. Under supervision only - let the pup/dog move around dragging the cord. Do not worry if the dog appears to be concerned, or refuses to move. Ignore all negative behaviour and only respond when he realises that he is in fact not restrained!
Repeat this until the dog is confidently (under supervision – in case the line gets stuck!) moving freely on his own accord.
Once the dog is moving freely on his own accord, simply pick up the end of the string and follow him around the garden.
Repeat this until you can see the animal is not concerned
Gradually put a tiny bit of pressure on the collar while simultaneously popping a tasty treat in his mouth
Again this should be repeated until the dog/pup appears unconcerned.
Once the dog/pup is at this level it is a small step to walking in an appropriate manner on the leash and begin to start taking him for a walk.
Do not walk in the neighbourhood past barking dogs at gates, or he will learn to view other dogs with distrust and fear and this could develop into defensive aggression. This is very important especially in the early stages, as you do not want him to have a negative experience, which could have lasting effects. Rather pop him in the car and drive to the park, where you can lure him out of the car and make walks rewarding and fun!
In order to make the experience positive and lasting you can take a toy and some treats and anything else that the dog values and make sure that you make it FUN!

WHAT IF………….? QUESTION: When I take my dog/pup for a walk on the leash he nearly pulls me over!

ANSWER: Pulling on a leash is an unacceptable behaviour and should not be permitted. It is very frustrating for owners and I have outlined an easy, passive method to permanently eliminate this bad behaviour!


HOW TO STOP A DOG FROM PULLING ON LEASH WHEN GOING FOR A WALK:
The easiest way to stop a dog or pup from pulling on a leash is to STOP, stand dead still and WAIT!
Walk the dog in a medium length leash which you should NEVER pull or yank.
Pulling the dog back actively encourages the behaviour because:-

As the leash pulling is usually accompanied with a “barked” voice command from the handler the dog is being rewarded (the reward is the attention) for the behaviour.
You are also teaching the dog that he is stronger than some humans.
You are teaching the dog that it is acceptable to solve problems using strength and force
You are setting a bad example to the dog - leaders lead – followers follow.
You are exhibiting lower “rank” behaviour to your dog

Make sure that you do not move your hands, and that they stay grasped close to your body. DO NOT SPEAK TO THE DOG, NOR SHOULD YOU MAKE ANY EYE CONTACT. IN FACT DO NOT ACKNOWLEDGE THE DOG IN ANY WAY WHATSOEVER! Remember that any reaction from you will be an encouragement to the dog. Reward good behaviour & ignore bad behaviour!

The second the leash is slack softly, verbally praise your dog and continue walking. The second the leash is slack again REPEAT, and repeat, and repeat and repeat………… What you are actually doing is teaching the dog to think for himself. The dog has to work out how to get you to continue on his walk – for the slack leash, the walk is his reward. If you have a dog why are you barking????

The dog/pup will soon learn that if he wants to go anywhere he has to walk in an acceptable position. A great tip is to take a good book on your walks (especially in the beginning) every time the leash is tight, slam on brakes, whip out the book, and start to read. In this way you will not be tempted to make eye contact with the dog (which would encourage the behaviour as your reaction – any reaction from you is rewarding to the dog) nor give him commands which again would encourage the behaviour. Only start to walk again once the leash is slack!

In the beginning days you may only manage a few steps a day, (but you might get through your latest novel!)
This method works and the effects are lasting! The most stubborn dog I ever worked with took 18 days (of daily walks) then on the 18th day he just seemed to click! Please Note: (Very important) If at anytime the dog regresses – repeat the above (just to remind him) and he will soon get the message! As with all dog training YOU WILL NEED TO BE CONSISTENT!

EQUIPMENT USED TO RESTRAIN DOGS:
There is no need to go to extreme lengths of cruel check or choke chains, pinch or electric collars to keep a dog under control. Kind human equipment is now available specially designed for pulling and other difficult dog problems.

A dog halter or headcollar eliminates pulling by some 80% (if used correctly) by simply controlling the dog’s head. This is a wonderful piece of gentle equipment working in a similar way to the horse halter. The pet does need to be gradually desensitised to wearing a dog head collar and unlike the old fashioned collar and leash is never jerked.
Most people need a bit of guidance into the correct use, as although if used correctly it is exceptionally kind, inappropriate use though, could cause injury to the dog.

Another piece of equipment for those who are too lazy to teach their dogs to walk at “heel” is a special harness that is available which puts a small amount of pressure on the dogs’ sternum inhibiting forging. This is ideal for novices and beginners as it can not be misused.

QUESTION: When my pup/dog and I have walked a few meters he just lies down and refuses to move on. Sometimes he also rolls over on his back in a gesture of refusal to move. How do I get the pup/dog to walk a bit further?
ANSWER:
Start with very short distances, building up the distance bit by bit. Do not attempt to drag, force or cajole the pup/dog to move, we want the pup/dog to make his own decision to follow on the walk. If he stops and refuses to move on, turn your back on the pup/dog and do nothing! Wait it out – I have yet to see a dog or pup stay in one spot long enough to grow roots! This apparent stubbornness is often caused by people who have pulled or dragged pups on the leash, put too much pressure on the leash or the dogs neck, or that the animal has learnt that if he lies down his doting owner will pick him up and carry him – don’t!


BEHAVIOUR BLUNDERS PUT FIDO IN HOT WATER - SHELTERS ARE PACKED WITH MISUNDERSTOOD POOCHES
By Norma Bennett Woolf USA

Introduction: Man’s best friend. . .Furbaby. . .Fuzz face. . .Companion. . .Helper. . .Working partner. . . The dog in all its guises fits these descriptions and more. Over generations dogs have been integrated into human society. Today, their jobs have changed – tests and trials that prove innate canine skills are more common than careers as hunters and herders, and most of the nearly 60 million dogs in US homes are family companions above all else. Unfortunately, dog-and-people relationships are not all peaches and cream. Dog bites are a major problem, owners often misunderstand dog behaviour, and communities are often in an uproar over loose dogs, destructive dogs, noisy dogs, and inconsiderate owners of bratty dogs. As a result, city councils pass laws restricting or banning breeds or limiting the number of dogs per household; insurance companies decline to insure some breeds; and people become afraid of certain breeds or of medium-to-large dogs in general.
The panic that ensues causes the number of medium-to-large dogs in shelters and rescues to increase as owners face insurance cancellations and the legal ramifications of keeping even well-behaved pets.

The key: A basic knowledge of canine behaviour can help alleviate the problems that can plague a dog-rich society. Dog bites can be prevented, dogs can be kept out of shelters, and more dogs can find new homes or stay in the homes they already have if owners understand what makes Rover tick. Studies show that more than 35 million US households own one or more dogs. According to a 1996 study from the Tufts University Centre for Animals and Public Policy, about four million dogs enter US animal shelters each year. Although the number of shelter dog deaths is much lower than it was 10 years ago, more than two million dogs die in shelters each year because there’s no one to adopt them and no place to put them.

Recent studies show that pets that are sexually intact, are acquired at one-to-three years of age or are less than six months of age, have never been to obedience class, and spend much of the day in crates or in the backyard are at high risk of surrender to shelters. Owners of these pets did not know what to expect when they acquired the puppy or young adult dog, and they were unable to find the help they needed to resolve the problems that ensued. These high risk dogs often have one general thing in common: they go beyond a lack of manners to destructive behaviours ranging from soiling the rug and chewing the furniture to excavating the yard, escaping, or acting aggressively towards family and friends.

Normal dog behaviour: It’s no big revelation that dog behaviour is what makes Fido act like a dog. The eye-opener is that there are gaps between dog behaviour and people expectations that can have serious ramifications. The most common puppy and young dog blunders are house-soiling, destructive chewing, aggression, and running away –natural behaviours gone awry. If these gaffes can be prevented or corrected, Fid and his family have a better chance at happily ever after.

Housetraining: Formerly known as housebreaking, housetraining requires patience and a bit of ingenuity, but can be accomplished in a relatively short time – as little as a few days with dogs six months or older and often in less than two weeks with puppies 12-16 weeks of age.

Puppies from breeders who raise litters in the house often have a head start on housetraining because they are paper-trained or taken outside regularly. Puppies from pet stores, commercial kennels, and animal shelters can be a bit more difficult because they live in cages and have nowhere else to relieve themselves. Housetraining tools are baby gates or other barriers, a crate, a leash, and some dog treats.

Dogs that are not housetrained should be fed on a schedule so their bowels become regular and movements are predictable. They should be taken outside after meals, after naps, first thing in the morning and last thing at night.

Dogs that are not housetrained should be confined to rooms in which humans are present so that the least signal that a puddle or pile is imminent can be observed. The pup should then be taken outside on a leash, told to “potty,” and given praise and a treat when done. No puddle or pile, no playtime, no treat, no praise – the dog should be confined to the crate for a few minutes, then taken outside again.

Housetraining a dog is an adult job; children are too easily distracted to keep an eye on the untrained dog and too easily tempted to praise, treat, and play even when success is not achieved. Things that interfere with housetraining: leaving a dog crated too long, waiting too long to get started teaching the routine, lack of consistency, and giving too much freedom too soon.

Destructive chewing: Puppies chew to help them teethe and to explore their surroundings. Older dogs chew to relieve boredom.
To prevent destructive chewing: Confine Rover when you cannot watch him. Provide plenty of appropriate items to chew. Give Fido a chew-toy to distract him away from the furnishings when he’s in a chewing mood. Use a repellent such as bitter apple or bitter lime on furniture, rugs, baseboards, etc. if Munchkin tries to chew. Always praise Kandy for chewing the right stuff. Appropriate chew toys can include everything from a fresh or frozen carrot to the various chew bones, balls, and weirdly-shaped objects available in pet supply stores.

Running away: Again, prevention is far easier to manage than the recipe for a cure. Tools for teaching dogs to stay home are a leash, a fence, and enrolment at an obedience class. Unless confined to an enclosed area, Buster should be walked on a leash so he doesn’t get the opportunity to take off. Sturdy fences will keep Fido home and provide a barrier to temptation. Visible fences also keep wandering dogs and neighbourhood cats and kids from entering the yard.

Obedience classes provide techniques for canine management, techniques such as teaching Sunny to sit before going outside so she’s not as likely to dive through an open door. Obedience class instructors should also be qualified enough to answer questions about blossoming problems (choose your school carefully – not all training schools are good ones!).

A dog that already indulges his wanderlust by digging under or climbing over the fence should never be allowed outside without supervision. If he persists in digging or climbing even when supervised or if he must be occasionally left outside alone, installation of a hot wire – a wire charged by an electric fence battery – at the top of the fence for climbers and the bottom of the fence for diggers may be the answer to keeping the dog at home.A word of caution: a tether is not an answer to keeping Rover at home. Dogs become very protective of their space when tied outside and they can become aggressive to children or animals that enter that space. If he must be outside on his own, even for short periods, Rover needs a shaded pen with a dog house.

Aggression: Again, prevention is easier than cure. Puppies that are taught good manners from the beginning are far less likely to become aggressive than dogs that are allowed to climb the dominance ladder or dogs that are teased into fearful behaviour patterns. Owners of potentially aggressive dogs must be vigilant; many of these dogs do not like children in general or a few children in particular. Some of them love the children in the family but are quirky with visiting friends.

To avoid behaviours that can lead to aggression, make sure the pup learns from day one that the humans in the family are in charge of his destiny. Feed him every meal – don’t leave his bowl on the floor for leisure dining – and pick up the dish in 15 minutes whether it’s empty or not. Take him out – don’t give him free access to outside. Require him to sit, lie down, walk on a leash, stay behind a gate or in a crate – don’t give him carte blanche to do his own thing. Although recent research indicates that rough play may not cause aggression, it is wise to shun such play because it can encourage aggression in some dogs. It is especially important that children not indulge in rough and tumble play or tug-of-war with a pushy dog.

Supervise all contact between the dog and the children! Teach children how to care for and love the dog, not so that the kids will do the actual work but so they will understand that dogs respond to kindness and dislike teasing and rough treatment. Among the lessons: Dogs are threatened by hugging, squeezing, or grabbing of their body parts and often respond by snapping, nipping, or with full-fledged bites. Running, screaming, and squealing can trigger prey drive in dogs and result in an injury to the child.

Dogs as pets: Descended from and related to wolves, the wild canids that live in social packs and cooperate in hunting and raising litters, dogs are at once alien creatures and highly adapted (and adaptable) human playmates and partners. Thousands of years ago, dogs gave up their wild ways to live among people, and we got the better of the deal. In exchange for food, shelter, and nurturing, the dog became a working partner, a hunter, guardian, herder, and dispatcher of vermin.
He powered sleds and carts, accompanied herds and flocks to market, and, when man gained leisure time, provided entertainment and opportunities to prove owners’ abilities in breeding and prowess in training.

Today the presence of nearly 60 million dogs in American households pays tribute to the special bond that exists between our two species. Owners and potential owners can extend the same chance at connection for many of the four million dogs that enter shelters and rescues each year with some attention to canine behaviour and the fit between dogs and people in the family.


QUESTION AND ANSWER SECTION:

QUESTION: Approximately how many health and physical problems have been associated with aggressive behaviour problems in dogs? - A. 5 B. 9. C. 15 D. More than 15

Answer: D. Amazing, but it's more than 15.


QUESTION: You just brought your new 7 week-old puppy home from its litter to your house. What's the best way to establish yourself and other family members as it life-long leaders? A. Roll the pup onto its back on the ground or floor and hold it firmly, until it relaxes. B. Teach the pup to obey your command to sit, using treats.
C. Lead the pup, meaning take it out in the yard and keep walking away from it.
D. Teach the pup to sit by physically placing in a sit and correct it physically be repositioning it if it breaks the sit.

Answer: C. Dogs are naturally endowed with the tendency to respond to physical movement. If you walk away from your pup and praise ("Good Dog") when it starts to follow you, the pup will soon recognize you as the leader.


QUESTION: What's the best way to avoid a jealousy problem with an adult family dog when a new puppy is going to join the household? A. See if you can get one of the new drugs for anxiety in dogs and dose the family dog..
B. Make the puppy's arrival mean the existing family dog gets more attention after it arrives.
C. Underfeed the adult dog for several days then feed it fully when the puppy moves in.


Answer: B. Be sure to show the adult dog less attention (enough less that he notices it) for at least 4 days prior to the new pup's arrival. Make the increased attention happy and joyous don’t coddle or try to reassure the dog. That can make him think something is "wrong." Let the puppy adapt to the situation.


QUESTION: Why do some dogs urinate on their owners? A. Because they dislike them. B. Because they want to "dominate" them. C. Because they feel "insecure" about their relationship with them.

------------
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es!) on request.s - I first selection of the children and let you know how it all went:rst seleD. Because they "love" them.

Answer: C (and usually D) Feelings of insecurity in dogs, and many cats, about their "people" stimulates what is often called "social urine marking" so as to set it apart from pure territorial marking. However, many dogs and cats will spray on strangers who enter their social group or territory: Take it from one behaviour consultant who has "been there."
Dogs that have done this are not necessarily aggressively dangerous; they are usually insecure and socially "bossy" with their owners and strangers. Peeing exclusively on the owner indicates the dog wants to lay claim to someone about whom he or she needs to feel more secure. Once this security is provided,
usually through a differential diagnosis and a well-designed and faithfully executed leadership program for the owner(s), the problem simply goes away.


A DOG IS A DOG IS A DOG? YES -- WITHIN LIMITS
Canine character test indicates dog's pack and defence attitudes

The Martins brought home the cutest German Shepherd puppy several months ago, and the children named her Cheyenne--just like their old shepherd who died last winter. Cheyenne grew as shepherds do, and before long she weighed 50 pounds and was a handful at the end of a leash. And she stole food, off the counters, off the table, even out of the children's hands. This Cheyenne was nothing like the other Cheyenne. This Cheyenne chased the neighbour’s cat, shredded the children's socks and underwear, and liked nothing better than a romp through the neighbourhood with Mom and kids chasing behind, calling frantically for her to come back. The Martins were baffled--they bought a second German Shepherd because they liked the personality of the first, but they didn't know that within breeds, individual characters can vary widely.

During the last decade or so, dozens of books have been written and hundreds, maybe thousands, of seminars have been offered that focus on understanding learning style or working style as critical to getting the most out of a student, a subordinate, a colleague, or a spouse. In the last few years, dog trainers have incorporated the same principles into training programs. First, they determine the learning style of the dog based on his personality or drives; then they tailor a training program to fit that style.

The technique of recognizing dog drives --the inborn attitudes towards the stresses of life--is an old one, but until 1991 when Wendy Volhard put it down on paper, the knowledge was passed on from trainer to protégé. One of the founders - with husband Jack Volhard - of the so-called motivational method of training, Wendy Volhard attended a Schutzhund seminar taught by German trainer Jorg Silkenath. She became intrigued with the concept of drives and did further research before writing a series of articles for Off-Lead Magazine.

The concept is simple -- dogs have different personalities and therefore different learning styles, and techniques that work with one may not work with another. Thus some dogs obey with almost whispered commands, and others need firm words and stern expressions. Some dogs panic at quick movements and others stand their ground. Some dogs need wide space and others are not happy unless leaning against the master's leg.

Drives defined - The four drives outlined by Volhard include
1. PREY DRIVE 2. PACK DRIVE 3. FIGHT DRIVE 4. FLIGHT REACTION

The prey drive includes those behaviours that highlight hunting and foraging behaviours.
Dogs that hunt and kill their toys (or objects of clothing, pillows, etc.), chase anything that moves, steal food, stalk the cat, and pounce on toys or other animals are probably high in prey drive.

The Pack drive involves a dog's affinity for humans or other dogs.
A dog with a high pack drive cannot get enough of people; he barks or cries when left alone, solicits play and petting, likes to touch, enjoys grooming, and loves the sound of his master's voice.

The Fight drive is defensive and indicates a dog's self-confidence in stressful situations. A dog with a strong fight-defence drive stands his ground, walks high on his toes, guards his territory and his family, may guard his toys and food, tolerates petting and grooming but does not really enjoy these activities, enjoys tug-of-war, and seems ready to fight.

The Flight drive is also a defence drive and indicates a dog's lack of self-confidence.
A dog with high flight drive is unsure in new situations and may hide behind his person, is stressed when separated from his person, crawls on his belly or urinates when reprimanded, and may bite when cornered.

What they mean:
A dog with a strong fight drive may be described as dominant; a dog with a strong flight drive is often described as submissive and can become a fear-biter if not trained appropriately. Although each breed exhibits a general character, individuals in each breed can vary. Akitas, Rottweilers, Dobermans, and German Shepherds are guard breeds and are expected to be high in both prey and fight drives and moderate or low in pack and flight drives, some individuals in these breeds have a high pack drive or a high flight drive.

Golden Retrievers, Labrador Retrievers, Standard Poodles, and other companion breeds are expected to be high in pack drive and moderate in prey and fight drives, but some individuals may have a high defence drive and become either aggressive or excessively fearful. Problems can arise when a breed is chosen for its general drives but the individual dog differs from the prevailing character of the breed.

To determine the strength of these drives in an individual dog, Volhard devised a simple 12-question test for each. Each question is answered by "yes" or "no"; the number of "yes" answers determines the depth of the drive in the dog's personality.

Training tips: All dogs should be taught the meaning of each command and should be given the benefit of the doubt until the owner is certain that the command is understood. Once the dog understands, corrections can be used for mistakes, beginning with guidance back into position then progressing to voice correction in a soft tone, then a harsher tone or correction.

Dogs that are high in flight drive should not be corrected harshly; even a loud tone of voice is too much. Dogs that are high in fight drive can be handled more firmly, with a deeper, more forceful tone of voice.

However, the least amount of correction is always best. Rambo is high in prey and pack drives and continuously pulls on the leash during a walk. He constantly sniffs, marks with urine, and is ready to chase cats, squirrels, or kids on bicycles. So Bob Jones teaches his pet to watch his every move by combining the "sneak-away" attention-getter and a new focus for Rambo's prey instinct. Jones carries a strip of liver or a squeaky toy in his pocket during the walks and gives Rambo plenty of leash for wandering. Then, when the dog's nose is to the ground, Jones turns to the right and walks briskly away. His momentum forces Rambo to follow, and when the dog gets close, Jones rewards him by giving him a bit of the liver or tossing the toy for him to catch.

Sunny is high in pack and flight drives, so Susan Smith knows that her pet is likely to hide behind her and even urinate submissively in new situations. On their walks, Smith also carries a strip of liver, which she asks strangers to offer the dog.

The Volhard method of training is based on motivating the dog to perform, not on punishing the dog for making a mistake. The Volhards have written several books about training that are available at local bookstores and also tour the USA offering their seminar.


FEARS AND PHOBIAS: Taken from a talk presented by Kathy Clayton (Accredited ABC)
Dogs are often labelled ‘neurotic’, which is applied to a wide variety of unacceptable behaviours such as biting, destroying items, chewing, chasing things etc. The term neurotic is properly applied to any behaviour, which is motivated by a high level of anxiety or agitation and in addition is maladaptive or counter-productive. Dogs may express their anxiety or agitation in a number of ways, some more easy to recognize than others.

PHOBIAS: Like human beings, dogs can suffer from phobias. A certain amount of fear is necessary to protect us from danger – it is not a bad thing for a dog to have some fear of traffic, however, if a dog is so afraid that he will not willingly walk on the pavement of a busy street, the fear has become maladaptive. Owners usually know when their dogs are suffering from fear: they may cower or try to escape, and if they cannot escape they tremble, pant or whine. They also like to be close to their nearest and dearest when they are afraid.

How do dogs develop such extreme fears? First of all, it could be an inborn, hereditary element. Certain fears are also typical of certain breeds, which points to the genetic factor. In South Africa it is known that Border Collies and Staffies tend to have a major fear of loud noises, fireworks, thunder etc. But most phobias are acquired during the course of the dog’s life. According to learning theory, this happens by means of classical conditioning. If a sudden, nasty or painful thing happens, the reaction is physical as well as mental. The autonomic nervous system jumps into action making the heart thump, the stomach churn etc.

These physical sensations become conditioned to anything that is perceived at the time of the nasty incident, so in the future all similar stimuli will evoke these physical sensations. The American psychologist called Watson demonstrated this process with an 11-month baby called Albert. He put a white rat in front of Albert and when he reached to pick it up Watson made a loud noise behind his head. When this was repeated five times the baby began to be afraid of the rat. The fear also generalized to other vaguely similar things like white rabbits and cotton wool. Other experiments showed a similar process occurring in animals

Now, thinking with common sense, if you go back into a situation which frightens you and discover there is nothing to be afraid of, you should lose your fear, however, phobias need special planned treatment which is known as systematic desensitization. It is successfully used to treat phobias in humans, and is even more successful with dogs as their thought processes are less complex.

It consists of teaching an alternative conditioned response to the anxiety-producing stimulus: a response which is incompatible with anxiety – feeding tidbits can be used to combat anxiety.

In the relaxed state, a version of the anxiety-provoking stimulus is presented, which is so mild that no anxiety is aroused at all. A dog who is afraid of the vacuum cleaner can be fed tidbits in a calm manner whilst the vacuum is turned on in another room for a few seconds. When the dog will tolerate this mild stimulus, the intensity of the stimulus is increased in small stages.

To be successful, the treatment must proceed so gradually that no anxiety is provoked. Also, during this gradual progress, the dog should not be exposed to a full-blown version of the stimulus, as this would reinforce the old connection and a reversal back to old behaviour.

DISPLACEMENT ACTIVITIES: Dogs can also express their fears and agitation in ways which are harder to recognize. A dog that sexually mounts the leg of visitors is not oversexed, or necessarily dominating the person, but could be in an agitated state. The arrival of visitors often arouses conflicting feelings in dogs. They want to greet newcomers, but at the same time they feel that they are intruders who need to be seen off the premises. This conflict may be expressed in peculiar ways such as running around in circles or to the embarrassment of the owners, mounting the visitor’s leg.
Dogs can learn over-excitement in the same way that they learn fear – by classical conditioning. Many dogs quickly learn that the sound of the front-door bell means visitors. The excitement which visitors provoke becomes conditioned to the sound of the bell. These dogs often calm down if the Bell is changed or disconnected, so that visitors have to knock or hoot. However, this doesn’t last long because the dog can quickly become conditioned to the new sound!

A dog which chews up cushions when his owner is out is not being naughty, but is very anxious at being left alone. The fact that a dog is a pack animal may cause a dog to create massive destruction when the owner is out. Unless, the dog is accustomed to the owner not being there, the dog feels extremely uneasy when he is separated from the rest of his “pack” and chewing and tearing at things are displacement activities arising from this upset. Dogs can use all kinds of activities as displacement activities at times of tension and frustration – they can chew their paws, chase their tails, dig imaginary holes in the carpet or in the garden.

CHRONIC ANXIETY: In about two out of three dogs there is usually an irrational fear of something; these are isolated symptoms and the dogs are often perfectly normal the rest of the time. However, there as some dogs that do not just suffer from isolated symptoms, for them, anxiety is a way of life. They do not suffer from a single phobia, but are afraid of all kinds of things. They seem to spend all their time moving from one displacement activity to another. Such anxious dogs can be extremely annoying to live with, but expressing annoyance with them by shouting will only make matters worse.

CAUSES OF PHOBIAS:- Physical suffering: - There is no doubt that cruelty and ill-treatment can damage dogs psychologically.

LOSS:- When people suffer a serious loss, a period of numbness is usually followed by a period of intense anguish and anxiety. The same thing can happen with dogs. As mentioned before, temporary separation from the owner can evoke intense short-term anxiety – if they lose their owners permanently, most dogs eventually adjust and settle down; but for some dogs the experience has a more lasting effect. Dogs can also be affected by the loss of other dogs.

CONFLICT:- Conflict is the experience of being pulled in two ways in a situation. In a dog’s life, the most important source of conflict is the owner! Imagine the conflict of an owner who allows a dog to jump up on him when he is in old clothes, but gets angry and hits the dog when he is wearing good clothes. Most dogs can read their owner’s body-language well enough to be able to predict what kind of response is likely, but if an owner is unpredictable or if his moods change without warning, this can be stressful for the dog.

Disagreement among family members about what the dog should or shouldn’t do also causes conflict – one family member may allow a dog onto the furniture, whereas another shouts at it to get off. This is why extremely agitated dogs are often found in families where there is stress and upheaval.

PERSONALITY:- There is no doubt that some dogs are more susceptible to developing phobias than others. Puppies that are reared in isolation may show all kinds of disturbed behaviour.We can also divide dogs into introverts or extroverts. Extrovert dogs act impulsively – they react positively whether with friendliness or aggression towards strangers and strange things. Introverted dogs are more cautious – they take their time to size up a situation. Introverted dogs are usually ones that develop phobias, whereas extroverted dogs are ones that get agitated and engage in displacement activities.

GENETICS:- Genetics also play a large part. Any dog that shows fearful or neurotic behaviour should never be bred from – irrespective of the physical beauty of the dog. However, there are far too many breeders who are doing just that, and these puppies are sold on to the unsuspecting public.

REWARDS:- Rewarding fearful or phobic behaviour can keep the behaviour going. Attention from the owner can be a reward in itself – even if the attention is only intermittent and takes the form of being cross with the dog. Such attention should never be given to fearful or phobic behaviour, as it would just reinforce that behaviour. Only calm, normal behaviour should receive attention.

GENERAL OVER EXCITEMENT:- This is usually the behaviour of Jack Russell’s, Staffies and Border Collies. At the moment I am also finding this to be the case with German Shepherd’s and a large number of Labradors. Some puppies who are over-excitable gradually calm down, whereas others get worse and worse. Many of these dogs develop phobias – and high up on the list must be a phobia towards thunder, gunshot and fireworks.

PREVENTION OF FEARS AND PHOBIAS:- When a dog has to be put to sleep because of his behaviour, it is much more upsetting than euthanasia on medical grounds. It is particularly tragic because in most cases, the problem could have been prevented.
1 Selective Breeding – breeders have a responsibility to minimize the risks by breeding only from dogs of good temperament.
2 Early Environment – breeders also have a responsibility to rear their puppies in a psychologically beneficial environment. The new owner should also be told the benefits of puppy socialization and encouraged to attend these classes.
3 Deciding on breed and sex – owners should make an informed decision when purchasing a puppy.
4 Acquiring an adult dog – in many cases, dogs which have landed up in a SPCA have some behavioural problem. The new owner now has to deal with this behaviour.
5 Owner’s handling of their dog – the way a dog is reared from puppy to adulthood lays the foundation for the rest of its life.

As Samuel Butler so aptly said “ All animals except man know that the ultimate of life is to enjoy it.” Unfortunately dogs with fears and phobias do not enjoy life and many have to be put to sleep because of this sad fact.
Reference: PROBLEM DOG – Behaviour and Misbehavior by Valerie O”Farrell


FEAR AGGRESSION:

What we should know about “Fear Aggression” in Dogs:

· Fear aggression may stem from puppies having received physical punishment.
· Dogs that have not had any bad experiences could be naturally fearful – Genetics!
· These dogs may respond to treatment but are never normal or trustworthy.
· Reactions to threats often generates inappropriate reactions.
· Some may just be fearfully aggressive by being approached (fear biter)]
· Never listen to the owner’s cliché: “Don’t worry he has never bitten anyone before!”
· These dogs often bite from behind and will bite from the front if cornered.
· Take note of what is meant by being cornered!!! Under a table, in a car, in a confined space, under the table, even in the corner of a room etc.
· These kinds of dogs always back up immediately after the aggression.
· These dogs should never be stepped over when they are lying across a doorway.
· These dogs should NEVER be with children EVER!
· Pain from arthritis or any other physical condition may induce fear of being handled and/or approached.
· Post MVA (motor vehicle accident) caring for a dog may, in fact, create a resentment of the rescuer. Pain was severe when handled by that individual.
· These dogs are potentially dangerous – as opposed to dogs that are only fearful.

How to deal with “Fear Aggression” in Dogs:
· Never approach the dog, especially if it has no escape route.
· Do not mistake submissiveness for acceptance – instead call the dog to you, if it appears to relax a little, offer it a titbit.
· Never disturb a dog when it is resting which could result in startling the dog.
· Never physically punish the dog. Punishment worsens the behaviour and scares them further. It teaches them that the aggressive approach is the correct one: aggression is met with aggression.
· Reward only calm behaviour.
· Avoid situations that could be a “trigger” mechanism to the behaviour.
· Never talk to the dog when it becomes aggressive. It is not something that should be approved by such communication. Reassurance is reinforcement of inappropriate or negative behaviour.
· Warn people about potential dangers.
· The dog should be in full view of a visitation, but must not be approached by people, not it venture towards any crowd. The dog should be restrained in the room by possibly tying the dog’s headcollar/leash to the bars of a window.
· Once visitors are relaxed, the dog may be allowed to approach the people without any eye contact from visitors. (on leash under control) Visitors are to be instructed to hand out a small treat (with stretched out arms) without any rapid movement or sharp voice.
· Minimise and avoid any sudden movements.
· If children are present a muzzle is A NECESSITY! Children are a major trigger mechanism. Any attack will result if the trigger is pulled.
· The dog should never be out of sight of a responsible controlling person.


NOTICE:
PLEASE GUYS – WHEN AT TRAINING PLEASE DON’T FORGET TO PICK UP AFTER YOUR DOG!

See a pooh and pick it up - all the day you’ll have good luck
See a pooh and let it lie and ……. Some poor sod is bound to put his foot in it!
Probably YOU!
Don’t forget to clean up after your dog!


ATTENTION ALL DOG TRAINING STUDENTS!
To ensure a positive learning experience for your dog, please leave your dignity, inhibitions and/or neurosis at the gate:
You may collect them after training!


That’s all for now folks:

Please do not hesitate to contact me should you have any training or behaviour problems with your pet:

Regards and Happy Heeling
Louise


Paws Abilities Behaviour & Learning Centre offers:-

1. Puppy Learning & Socialisation Group (from 7 weeks of age)
2. Dog Training Classes (domestic & show obedience) (from 5 ½ months – or older)
3. Individual private dog training lessons - available on request
4. Private, Confidential Behaviour Consultations for owners with problem pets: (booking is essential) e mail and telephonic behaviour modification consultations are also available for those clients who reside in outlying areas
5. Preparation of the existing family pet for the arrival of a new (human) baby.
6. Pet Matching.
7. Character and litter assessment.
8. Pet care advice.