Paws News May 2009

“Paws Abilities” - Behaviour & Learning Centre
Newsletter Number –30 MAY 2009


A warm hello to all Paws family and friends,
APOLOGIES - AGAIN:
Firstly, I would like to apologise to anyone who has been trying (unsuccessfully) to get hold of me for the last couple of weeks. No, I am not being more rude than usual! No, I promise I am not ignoring you! For once, it was not my fault!

Our telephone lines – in fact, the entire road’s cables were stolen three or four weeks ago, therefore I have been unable to answer both mail and telephone messages. We are now back in the land of communication (well at least for now) and I hope that no-one was unduly inconvenienced. If this happens again you are more than welcome to contact me on my mobile phone 082-890-0905 I am currently trying to find out it there is a viable alternative (well at least for the e mails) however we live in a farming area which has very poor reception so am at a loss what to do!

SCHOOL GRADING
Congratulations to all students who successfully achieved such good marks at our recent grading. The standard was exceptionally high, and all dogs and handlers have worked very hard to achieve such super results. Well done to you all! I would also like to thank all my dedicated instructors for all their hard work in preparing and conducting the tests, A job well done indeed! Another thank you must go to Mandy who helped produce such stunning certificates complete with rosettes!

MORE NEWS – SUPER PUP PROGRAMME
Our school was recently approached by Royal Canine (science diet dog food) with an invitation for us to join the “Super Pup” programme. This is indeed an honour and we would like to thank the sponsors of Super Pup for their invitation. They have developed a programme of certification to ensure the highest standard of competent, ethical/reputable puppy schools. This also provides the public with a guarantee of expertise in the field – subsequently protecting the public from fly-by-nights, and incompetent trainers. After filling in the relevant forms etc and answering a questionnaire, we were visited by their representative who came to assess one of our classes this was followed by a detailed interview. Watch this space for more news!

EVEN MORE GOOD NEWS!
Our new Club House / Education Centre (complete with tons of undercover areas) is now nearly completed!!
We are so excited and we can’t wait to hold a ROOFWETTING EVENT SOON

As soon as the last coat of paint has been applied, I will let everyone know and we are going to have a PARTY!
You are all going to be invited! There will be a small cover charge to go towards our building fund which is sorely in the red! And it will probably be a bring a plate event. We will also include something special in the form of entertainment as well!

Date to be released SOON!


GOOD CITIZEN TEST
A date has now been set for our Good Citizen Test. This is run under the auspices of the Kennel Union of Southern Africa and conducted by a qualified obedience judge.

VENUE Paws Abilities Behaviour & Learning Centre Training Grounds
DATE To be announced SOON
COST It is a nominal fee and we will let you know as soon as we know the cost of the packages.(PAYABLE IN ADVANCE) This is to enable us to order the correct number of rosettes and certificate packages from the Kennel Union. We have to pay well in advance to qualify.

JUDGE Mr Paul Lakin
Any Affiliated Club or organization acceptable to The Kennel Union of Southern Africa may hold the Kennel Union Canine Good Citizen Tests, which are not competitive, and successful participants receive the appropriate Certificates and Awards, subject to non-Affiliated organizations paying a franchise fee as laid down from time to time. There is no limit to the frequency or number of times any Test or Tests are taken by one dog.
ENTRY QUALIFICATIONS: Any dog may take part provided it has had its initial vaccinations. There is no upper age limit. Apparently sick dogs may be refused entry while they are sick.
EVALUATORS: Any KUSA Breed Judge who is on the panel for one or more Groups, together with any KUSA Obedience Class, Working Trials (Classic), IPO or Aptitude Judge may conduct
KUSA Good Citizen Tests. There is no restriction on how often an Evaluator may conduct Tests.
PARTICIPANTS BEFORE STARTING ON THE PROGRAMME: Must, if applicable for the area, produce a current Dog License and Rabies Certificate. Children must produce proof they are over eight (8) years of age and the written approval of their parents or legal guardians.
TEST SHEETS: Each participant will be issued a Test Sheet, in duplicate, one copy to be retained by the Club and the other by the participant. It is the responsibility of the participant to ensure both copies of the Test Sheet are signed and dated by the Evaluator. Prior to the commencement of the Test, the Evaluator will ensure that each participant has a Test Sheet and that it has been completed. A participant may take all the Tests at one time or singly, as they wish. As each Test is completed, the Evaluator will mark the Test Sheets Pass or Not Ready". Participants whose sheets are marked Pass may pass onto the next Test. Those marked “Not Ready" will have to be tested again.
DISMISSAL FROM THE TESTS: The organizing body reserves the right to dismiss from the Tests, permanently or temporarily, Any dog or person who acts in an aggressive, dangerous or obstreperous manner. The organizing body reserves the right to dismiss from the Tests on a temporary basis, any bitch which is on heat.
BEFORE A CERTIFICATE IS ISSUED (all the following Tests must have been passed). Tests One (1) and Two (2) must be passed before any other Tests can be attempted. Thereafter Tests may be taken and passed in any order.

CANINE GOOD CITIZEN TEST
Test 1: GROOM: The Evaluator will inspect the dog to see if it appears healthy, is clean and groomed and will permit a stranger such as a vet to examine it. The Evaluator then combs or brushes the dog and lightly examines the ears and front of each foot to see if it will accept grooming from someone other than its owner.
Test 2 PUTTING ON A COLLAR AND LEAD: The dog should have a well fitting buckle or slip collar of leather, fabric, or chain. Special collars such as pinch or spike' collars are not permitted. The lead must be either leather or fabric.
Test 3 PRESENT FOR EXAMINATION ON A LEAD: The purpose of this Test is to see if the dog can be examined by a Judge or a Vet without it becoming aggressive or flinching. On a lead the handler will present the dog to the Evaluator for a gentle examination of its mouth, teeth, throat, eyes, ears and feet.
Test 4 PRAISE /PRESENTATION: The Test is to demonstrate that a dog can be calmed easily following praise or play and can leave the Test in a well mannered fashion. The handler may praise the dog verbally, petting, playing with a toy and / or favourite trick, in the allowed ten (10) seconds of play and then must calm the dog for the next test.
Test 5 RELEASE FROM LEAD, PLAY WITH OR WITHOUT TOY, RECALL AND ATTACH LEAD: The purpose of this Test is to see if a dog can play happily off lead and be recalled and be put on a lead. The handler will release the dog from the lead and either play with it and throw some object for it to fetch and play with, then recall it and attach to lead.
Test 6 WALK ON LEAD WITHOUT DISTRACTION (WALKING ON A LOOSE LEAD): The purpose of this Test is to demonstrate that the handler is in control. The dog must be on the left side of the handler but need not be in the heel" position. There should be no doubt that the dog's attention is on the handler and it responds to movements and changes of direction. The course taken must include a left turn, right turn, an about turn, a stop in between and another at the end of the Test. The dog does not have to be perfectly aligned with the handler, nor sit when the handler stops.
Test 7 REACTION TO DISTRACTIONS: This Test is to demonstrate the dog is confident at all times when facing a distraction. The Evaluator must select two (2) of the following for this Test (they need not be the same for each dog).
Simulation of a handicapped person with crutches, a walker or a wheelchair (manual or motorised).
Sudden opening or closing of a door or solid gate.
Dropping a large book or similar object behind the dog but no closer than three (3) metres.
A jogger passing in front of the dog.
Good natured pushing or shoving or animated talk, excited talk and back slapping by people, with the dog and handler passing within three (3) metres.
Someone pushing a pram, or shopping cart from the front or rear and passing within two (2) metres of the dog.
A ridden bicycle passing front or rear within two (2) metres of the dog.
The dog may express natural curiosity and interest and may startle, but should not panic, try to run away, show aggressiveness or bark.
Test 8 WALK ON LEAD, PASSING THROUGH A DOOR OR GATE: The dog should walk confidently through the door/gate and should not shy away from it.
Test 9 REACTION TO ANOTHER DOG: This Test is to demonstrate the proper behaviour in the presence of other dogs. Starting at a distance of ten (10) metres from each other two handlers walk towards each other, meet, stop, shake hands, exchange a few words and continue for about five (5) metres. The dogs should demonstrate only casual interest. Neither dog should go to the other dog or handler.
Test 10 WALK ON A LEAD PASSING PEOPLE AND DOGS: This Test is to demonstrate that the dog should have no difficulty in walking through pedestrian traffic. The dog will walk around and close to several persons, at least four (4) one of whom should have a dog. The dog may show interest in the strangers and the dog, but should continue to walk without any evidence of shyness or over exuberance and should not be pulling at the lead. Throughout this Test the handler may encourage, praise or talk to his dog.
Test 11 ACCEPTING A STRANGER: This Test is to see that a stranger can approach the dog and handler in a casual, every day situation. Ignoring the dog the Evaluator will walk up to the handler and greet him in a friendly way and shake hands. The dog must show no signs of resentment or shyness and must not leave his position to go to the stranger. Sitting politely for petting by a friendly stranger, with the dog sitting at the handler's side, the Evaluator pets the dog only on the head and body, and then circles the dog and handler which completes the Test.
Test 12 LIE DOWN AND STAY TO COMMAND: This Test is to demonstrate that the dog has some training and will respond to the handler's commands. Taking reasonable time, the handler commands the dog first to “sit” and then to “lie down", using as many commands as he likes. He must not force the dog into position. The "stay” command is then given and the handler walks about seven (7) metres from the dog and returns at a natural walking pace to the dog, which must maintain its position until the handler returns and the Evaluator gives permission for the dog to move.
Test 13 SUPERVISED ISOLATION: This Test is to demonstrate a dog can be left alone, if necessary, whilst maintaining its training and good manners. Evaluators are encouraged to say something like “would you like me to watch your dog while you make your call?", both to add a touch of reality and to accentuate the fact that leaving a dog tied up and unsupervised is not condoned. The dog will be attached to a two (2) metre line. It does not have to stay in position but should not continually bark, whine, howl, pace unnecessarily or show any behaviour with a mild agitation or nervousness.
CERTIFICATES AND AWARDS: Once all the Tests have been completed and marked “Pass" and signed off the organising body will issue the dog with a rosette and a numbered KUSA Canine Good Citizen Certificate. They will send the participant's copy of the Test Sheet to KUSA.


AVOIDING POSSESSIVENESS:
Your puppy or dog should never be permitted to own his own toys or have exclusive rights to his own possessions.

This DOES NOT mean that he should not have doggie chew toys left lying around in the garden and house to vent his teething frustration on – he must! What we are talking about is his favourite toy or special toy. Many dogs become seriously attached to certain items and aggressive possessiveness can result from this.

If your best friend becomes “hooked” on any play object, it should then be permanently under your control. The special toy would only be brought out at YOUR INVITATION, and played with ON YOUR TERMS ONLY. Thus you must decide when to play, and with what to play with, and you must decide when to end the game!

At the end of each game (that you have initiated and ended), the toy must be taken away from the pup and put away, until you are in the mood again. Do not let him demand to play with the toy, all decisions must be yours.

Remember to be a good pack leader the owner must be a clear decision-maker. From the dog/pups point of view, you as the leader must be the one who makes all the decisions. The leader of the pack is also the one who claims the ownership of valuable commodities and resources.

The pup must view you, who, as the leader have been very generous to initiate play with the pup. (Only the higher status animal in the pack would do so) and at the end of the game the to is put away until the next time you - as pack leader initiate plat when You (not the dog) are in the mood! (10 minutes / 10 hours it does not matter)

Practise taking toys and other objects out of your puppy’s mouth with the command “Leave”. As pack leader you should be able to remove any item from your pups mouth at anytime that as leader is your privilege!

DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE OBJECTS/BONES/TOYS FROM UNKNOWN ADULT DOGS UNLESS YOU ARE CERTAIN OF THEIR REACTIONS – ESPECIALLY WITH UNKNOWN DOGS!!!
Remember there are no medals for bravery!

TAKING THE BONE/CHEW AWAY FROM THE DOG:
Start as you mean to go on. Ideally from a very early age the dog/pup should have taught that you as a status animal in the group, own all things in life, and should have been able to remove anything from the pup.

If this is not the case and your dog/pup exhibits any form of negative behaviour, such as growling at you when you want to remove the bone/hoof/toy from him, do not become confrontational!

Aggression from you will be met with more aggression from the dog.

Stay calm, and be a good role model. Try to think of logical alternatives to get your own way, for example: - Offer the dog/pup an alternative treat, and then you can “Trade” the prized item for a treat.

Beware of getting “heavy handed” with an older dog who might well misinterpret your actions and take you up on what he sees as the challenge, or acts in what he sees as his own defence!

As with all toys, bones and hooves etc, all children should be under strict supervision at all times.


Fireworks Threaten Animals It is clear from research that using fireworks near animals is both cruel and inhumane.“Firework displays and celebrations bring confusion, anxiety and fear into the lives of animals, causing many to run away from their homes in an effort to escape the frightening detonations. Fireworks are not animal-friendly. Invariably, when communities celebrate with fireworks, local shelters and other animal aid organizations are overwhelmed by the "fallout”, which manifests in an increased number of stray animals and reports of injuries and trauma to animals. Those animals reunited with their families must consider themselves fortunate. Many injured or terrorized animals run away from their homes to escape the traumatizing detonations of fireworks. Some are hit by cars and injured or killed, some are maimed for life, while others are never recovered alive.Firework explosions can produce a blind panic in animals that can lead to serious injury, deep-rooted, debilitating fears, or even death. This is, in part, because the events do not last long enough for animals to become accustomed to the explosions. Moreover, the ears of most animals are considerably more sensitive than the human ear. Therefore, the explosion of a firework (which can emit sounds of up to 190 decibels, a full 110 to 115 decibels higher than the 75- to 80-decibel range, where damage to the human ear begins) not only is proportionately more disturbing to an animal, it can also affect an animal's acute sense of hearing.
In addition, animals who are too close to firework explosions often suffer significant burns and eye damage. Fireworks generate a noise level higher than the noise from gunshots (140 decibels) and low-level flying jets (100 decibels). Irreversible ear damage, such as tinnitus and loss of hearing in humans starts at the 80-decibel range.Startling, extremely loud sounds must have a detrimental effect on wildlife as well. In 1996, research demonstrated that hatchling and juvenile black ducks at a site of overflights in Piney Island, N.C., grew slower and had less body weight than black ducks living in low-noise areas. A study to examine the impact of sound from loud gunshots on snow geese found that the birds reduced their feeding time. The energy loss created could be only partially compensated for by feeding at night, resulting in less time resting and sleeping. Over time, these sorts of behaviours no doubt reduce survival rates. Dr. David Noakes, a zoologist at the University of Guelph, Ontario, points out that the combined responses to fireworks of panic and disorientation can result in birds' flying into a building or too far out to sea. Researchers at Acadia University, Nova Scotia, found that colonial species of birds who nest in high densities, such as the herring gull, are most at risk during a round of firecracker explosions. After a loud bang, most birds fly away in fright, and the nesting mothers of the flock sometimes cannot find their own nest upon return, endangering the well-being of nestlings.Fireworks produce light, noise and air pollution. The explosion of fireworks also releases poisonous chemicals and particle-laden smoke, contaminating our natural environment. As a consequence, fireworks pose a hazard to wildlife living in or near areas where firework displays occur, as well as wildlife downwind.
And these chemicals are also hazardous to companion animals living in the area where they are detonated. In addition, we can not forget humans with asthma and other health problems.Fireworks can affect farm animals, too. Dr. Ian Duncan, a University of Guelph ethnologist, has demonstrated that laying hens show extremely low egg production the day after fireworks and the eggs are often malformed as well.Dogs, cats, and other companion animals don't understand that the terrifying loud bangs are a celebration. One can only imagine what they think, given how much more sensitive their hearing is than ours. Humane societies across North America report that after firework displays they are swamped with calls about lost dogs and cats. Dogs are brought to shelters with paws bloody from running or torn skin from tearing through a backyard wooden fence or, worse, crippled from being hit by a car.The need to protect both companion animals and non domesticated animals from fireworks harm is exemplified in the numerous stories of animal suffering that we are left with after the smoke has cleared. For example, dogs have responded to firework explosions by breaking through windows and screens, often running miles away from their homes, only to end up exhausted, bloody and confused or dead on the road. A bull trying to escape his pen in response to a fireworks display died after becoming impaled. The city of Carrollton, Texas, decided to cancel its 1999 July Fourth fireworks celebration after a fireworks test indicated that the lights and sounds disturbed egrets at a nearby rookery. Even guide dogs - who are well trained and prepared for the big bad world - are sometimes left so terrorized by the explosions that they suffer severe emotional distress and are unable to assist their companions. Consequently, it is not surprising that firework events generate an increase in the number of stray animals, as well as an increase in reports of injuries and trauma to animals.For animals, fireworks are no cause for celebration. However, fireworks remain a holiday fixture in most communities around the world, despite the increased acceptance of alternatives such as laser light shows and neighbourhood festivals.


Animals in Complexes
by Dr M Greenberg
The topic conceptualises the effects of modern society on our pets as a result of changes in the human social structure, the design of townhouses and cluster complexes, and other internal and external environmental influences.

Altered human family structure:
Over the last 5 to 6 decades the changes in human family composition has altered severely to the detriment of the dog. It is uncommon to have 3-4 generations within the same household. The grandparents are committed to a retirement village, both parents work and the children are at school most of the day. The dog is either home alone or being raised by the domestic or gardener. Further to this, one finds that the dog dominates the children and the children dominate the parents, a complete failure in patriarch and matriarch control.

Property design:
Walled-in properties deny dogs the opportunity of visual and social stimulation and the lack of recognition and association of neighbour activities, pets and people. The gregarious canine exists in a claustrophobic environment and lacks the opportunities of socialisation, training and extramural activities due to the increased laziness of owners.
Property developers never consider pet facilities e.g. in-house dog park or look-in fencing for cats

Canine selection:
The rapidly increasing misconception that small dogs must be placed on small properties is causing a marked increase in frustrated, hyperactive and attention-deficit Jack Russell Terriers and excessive vocalising Dachshunds. Large breeds e.g. Newfoundland, St. Bernard, Great Dane actually cope surprisingly well because they have low activity levels. The inconsiderate and incorrect selection of working and hunting dogs is the cause of a multitude of behaviour problems plaguing pet dogs with limited space.

The mix of unsuitable breeds is a further aggravating factor for inter-canine aggression e.g. two terriers.
Certain breeds are on the verge of “extinction” due to the biased selection process for modern living. When did one last see a Pyrenean Mountain Dog, Keeshond, Schipperke. The trend involves selection for size, cost of feeding, cuteness (neoteny), short hair and the belief that exercise is not a requirement.
The constant wrong mix of sexes will be with society forever. Siblings of the same sex is commonplace and only manifests as a problem further down the line. 2 pups of the opposite sex from the same litter is also a perpetual problem as the anthropomorphic concept still prevails where people truly believe that animals know that they are brother and sister.(The meaning of anthropomorphismn is “owners misguidedly accrediting animals with human feelings and emotions”)

Behaviour problems:
4-6 million dogs are euthansed in the USA annually for behaviour disorders alone. Considering that most of these cases are put down younger than 2 years of age has dropped the average lifespan of dogs to 3.5 years!! All behaviour disorders involve normal canine behaviour patterns that become exacerbated and inappropriate for people.

The more common groupings of behaviour problems that develop rapidly in an un-stimulating environment include:
Stereotypy (pacing)
Self-mutilation
Digging, Barking & Destructiveness
Aggression – various forms
Anxiety
Inappropriate elimination
Ingestive disorders- coprophagia, phytophagia, foreign bodies, over-eating, passive/active food aggression
Obsessive Compulsive Disorders (tail chasing, light/shadow chasing, licking, acral lick dermatitis, spinning, flank sucking, ingestion of stones and sand, snapping at the air, attacking inanimate objects, excessive grooming in cats etc.)
Sound phobias (echo of sound transformed in walled-in areas)

Human influences:
People have lost the concept of what an animal and particular breed’s needs are with regard to physical, mental, emotional and social stimulation. People are being raised in mostly animal-free households as opposed to most families 50-60 years ago who had small holdings where contact with a wide variety of animal species offered a more lucid educational opportunity about nature. This deprivation in modern complexes is distorting the human understanding of pets, in particular. The most common human influences on animal behaviour in high density dwellings are:
Anthropomorphism (attributing human mannerisms to animals)
Neoteny
Over-indulgence, over-attentiveness (particularly in puppyhood and in early contact with parrots) creates over-dependence and lack of coping skills
Neurotic people have neurotic dogs; treacherous people have treacherous dogs
Ignorance through failure in attending puppy socialisation classes and obedience training. The owner needs the orientation more than the dog.
Negative reinforcement and conditioning mostly due to inappropriate punishment
People acting as catalysts for phobias, fears and manias (rewarding fears and neuroses)
Transfer of human insecurity on to the pets- human loneliness, depression and childlessness—needy people have the need to be needed.
Domestic violence
Inconsistency amongst family members – creates canine confusion, distrust, even fear aggression
Abuse – 2/3 of women in shelters have pets that have been injured or abused. Animal abuse leads to an 84% chance that there will be wife or child abuse in the family
Benign negligence – nothing is ever done for the dog
Criminal violence – intrusive, traumatic, can be irreparable.
Use of pets as scapegoats in inter-human conflicts e.g. divorce or disagreements
Lack of calming signals – many homes are noisy and dogs are attacked from many angles by undisciplined children
Overfeeding
Puppy isolation during impressionable development periods “in case they pick up diseases”

Diseases and other conditions:
Animals under high density accommodated in confined spaces are more prone to illnesses due to stress, social pressure, constant contact with same environment (recycling) and the inability to carry out normal physiological processes.
Some of the more common conditions afflicting pets are:
Verminosis (worms)
Infectious tracheobronchitis (kennel cough)
Impacted and ruptured anal sac abscesses
Obesity
Premature Cognitive Dysfunction Syndrome (early Alzheimer’s)
Feline Leukaemia
Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (AIDS)]
Cat fight abscesses
Feline psychomotor epilepsy
Feather plucking in parrots
Pancreatic disease in cats and dogs
Diabetes in cats and dogs
Cancer in cats and dogs
Foreign body obstruction in dogs
Contact allergies (particularly in fastidiously hygienic homes)
Asthma (chemicals inhalation, passive smoking)


Double Edged Sword: VICIOUS DOGS/VIOLENT CHILDREN!
By Dr C.W. Meisterfeld.
The link between violence and animal has been recognised, researched, studied and documented, there remains a gap in understanding why our dogs and children are becoming violent. Animal shelters are filled, as are juvenile penal systems, with rejected souls that are helpless victims of the misconceptions about establishing dominance and obedience. As the statistics for rape and murder spiral upward each year, so do the incidents of vicious attacks by dogs.

Dogs provide an ideal prototype for the study of behaviour in humans. Not only due to their brains being similar, but also because they, like humans, are genetically social animals. Equally important, they are unique in their willingness to seek a bond of servitude to humans as strongly as with members of their knows species. Dogs are the only animal that actively seeks and needs this bond with mankind.

Puppies and children must be guided and taught with respect, the proper acceptable behaviour, in order to become trustworthy, stable members of society. A study in 1963 by Bandura, Ross and Ross, shows that children do, in fact imitate aggression they observe.

Children who experience aggression through physical punishment become aggressive, because they are imitating the behaviour of their parents. Parents who use forceful dominant training techniques with the family dog, are teaching their children THAT PHYSICAL VIOLENCE AND INTIMIDATION ARE OK! Such techniques have been widely taught over the past twenty years, when the “wolf pack” theory was introduced. This theory, based on wild wolves and dominance, is dangerous, harmful, and is part of the modern cycle of violence.

The object in dominant training, is to make the dog submit to a stronger force if the dog fights back. The innocent dog owner is informed (by the so called “experts”) that this behaviour shows the dog is trying to be the boss and is “dominant”!. If the dog resists or objects, the force techniques are increased. If the dog still resists - the force techniques are increased to higher and higher inducing levels. The bottom line is that you either break the dog’s spirit into submission or you break open his head or have him destroyed because of his survival, want-to-live instinct.

How tragically sad! Dominant training breaks the spiritual link of mutual respect between man and man’s best friend.

A child, who has been physically punished or has observed physical violent behaviour, will in turn use physical acts of dominance/aggression to other beings more vulnerable than himself.

Likewise, a dog that has been trained by forceful and abusive techniques will in turn become dominant to other living beings, animals, human beings and especially children!

Children who abuse animals often go on to abuse adult human beings late in life. Most criminals who have been violent towards people, share a common history of excessive and repetitive cruelty towards animals.

How children are raised shapes their values and behaviours. They learn from adult role models and the society that they live in. A home of violence, abuse, or neglect produces children who may well pass on these behaviours to the next generation, and so on.

Animals especially pets, get caught up in this cycle of family violence. In most cases the animal is the last victim in a chain of abuse that filters down from the strongest family member to the weakest. In order to understand an individual act of violence, the entire family and life history of all participants must be considered.

Evidence is mounting that violent acts are not separate and distinct events, but are part of a cycle. These findings should alert parents, social leaders, prosecutors, and judges to the occurrence of animal cruelty as a potential indication of disturbed family relationships and future antisocial activity and aggressive behaviour towards humans.

Recognising the link between animal cruelty and other violent acts may be our first line of defence in breaking down the cycle of violence in our communities.

Researchers Alan Felthouse and Stephen Kellet found that a child who learns aggression against animals, is more likely to rape, abuse and kill other humans as an adult. This it is reported that some of the worlds most violent criminals exhibited excessive cruelty towards animals.

· The New York Times, 1991: Jeffrey Dahmer, who killed 17 men and sawed up their bodies into pieces, reportedly impaled frogs and staked cats to trees in his backyard.
· The Washington Post, 1977: Mass murderer David Berkowitz, New York City’s “Son Of Sam”, was depicted by the press as hating dogs and having killed a number of neighbourhood animals in his youth.
· The Press Democrat, 1998: In Pearl, Mass., a neighbour of accused killer Luke Woodham testified that he watched the 16-year old and an alleged conspirator in the killings, Grant Boyett, 18, chase the family dog and bludgeon the animal to death.
· American Humane Association, 1998: In a study of over 57 families being treaded for incidents of child abuse, 88% also abused animals. In two-thirds of the cases, it was the abusive parent who had killed or injured the animals to control a child. In one-third, the children had abused the animals, using them as scapegoats for their anger.
· American Humane Association, 1998: In a study of 28 incarcerated sexual-homicide perpetrators (all men) researches found that 36% had abused animals in their childhood and that 46% in adolescence.
· American Humane Association, 1998: In a study using a sample of 64 men, 48% of convicted rapists and 30% of convicted child molesters admitted to cruelty to animals during their childhood or adolescence.

Experts believe that children who are unusually cruel to animals, may continue the abuse that they learned from their parents into adulthood, thus creating a cycle of violence.


BACK TO BASICS - THE SIT AND DOWN:

WHY IS THE “SIT” SO IMPORTANT?
Teaching a young pup or even an older family dog, to sit reliably on command is probably one of the most important lessons a puppy or dog will ever learn!

WHY?
· When owners arrive home – when visitors appear, or if the puppy is excited, he can not jump up at people, if he is in the “sit’ position.
· If he is doing something the owner disapproves of – he will stop immediately and cannot continue misbehaving if he is in the “sit” position.
· If he runs away from his owner or bolts to chase the cat/kids on bicycles etc – he cannot continue if he is in the “sit” position.
· If he is showing aggression to someone or something – it cannot go any further, if he is in the “sit” position.
· There are numerous behaviours that can be interrupted/redirected with a “sit”
· All pups and dog should be taught to sit, whilst there collars and leashes are being put on before going for a walk or training class!
· If an owner teaches his puppy nothing else in his entire life but a robot like “sit” on command, they will have an easier dog to live with. Make it your mission in life to ensure that you teach pups and owners to perform and perfect a completely reliable sit!





TEACHING THE “EASY” SIT:
· An easy way to teach him to “sit” on command is by the use of a food lure or his favourite toy as a motivation. Have the pup on his collar and leash for control. If performing the exercise standing you can pup a foot on the end of the leash, so that both hands are free). If sitting, the leash can be tucked under a knee etc.
Sit on the floor, holding his toy/treat in your right hand, and if possible have the pup on your left hand side, or facing you. For later training it is a good idea to perform as many of these exercises as you can, with the pup on your left hand side, as in later more formal training he will have to learn to “heel” on your left hand side.
Hold the treat parallel with the puppy’s nose, making sure that he is focused on it (try this only on an empty stomach.) Now very slowly, lift your hand up and move it backwards (into the pup face) keeping the treat at licking distance, attached to the pup’s nose. Do not move your hand too quickly or the pup will bounce around and loose interest. The pup in his effort to reach the food will automatically go into the “sit” position

Hold the food at the appropriate angle to keep him in the “sit” position for a few
seconds while he is licking the treat simultaneously repeating the word “sit” with a smile and lots of verbal praise (don’t touch too much or you will excite the pup and he will move!) Release the pup and let him finish his treat with lots of verbal praise.
NOTE: Most owners teach their pups to “sit” facing them, which gives both owner and pup gratification. The pup is rewarded by the owner’s eye contact, sound, smell and presence. Once habituated, it is often very difficult to re-teach the pup to then sit on the handler’s left hand side. To avoid this becoming a habit, from the beginning, rather encourage puppies to sit and perform a variety of exercises on the handlers left hand side

POSSIBLE “SIT” PROBLEMS:

1. When the puppy sits he is facing the wrong way:
The pup wants to swing around to face the owner and is unhappy sitting on the owner’s left hand side.

The handler should not use force or the leash to get the dog/pup into the correct position..
The handler should not use his/her fingertips or hands to force the pup into the correct position.
The handler should never lose patience or raise his/her voice!

Solution:
a) Use a physical barrier to restrict the puppy’s movement. Or if indoors use one of the corners of the room to limit the puppy’s opportunity to “back” away.

b) With the owner kneeling and the pup on the left hand side - wedge the pup between their forearm and left leg – limiting the pup’s options.

2. The “hand shy” puppy:
This is a result of unintentional learning and is caused by thoughtless grabbing. Pups soon learn avoidance and to dodge out of their owners hands.

Occasionally caused by lack of contact and inappropriate punishment, it is more often caused by ignorance and inappropriate rough play / roughing up the dogs face. Inappropriate discipline in the form of face hitting (sometimes as a result of annoyance). It may also be caused by over enthusiastic facial petting and praise, which pups find extremely intimidating. When the cause of hand shy dogs and puppies is pointed out to owners, they often are horrified and feel extremely guilty.

Handlers should use slow deliberate hand movements, and if ever necessary to move or physically manipulate the pup, (for example to insist on a straight sit,) instructors should ensure that the handlers use the stiffened flat palm of the hand – never allow handlers to curve the end of their fingers!

3. The “leash pulling” handler:
Handlers who over-use the leash are very common. This mindset usually comes from antique training methods that were based on correction and punishment.

Problems resulting from over use of the leash:
A shy puppy that is constantly pulled on the leash when walking or being worked will result in a dog that is likely to lag and be a slow worker.
If the pup is confident and bouncy – it could result in teaching the pup that it is acceptable to pull and have tension on the leash.
The pup learns that he only has to be obedient and comply with his handlers instructions when on leash! The minute the leash/collar is removed the dog becomes selectively “deaf” and disobedient!



Solution:
If the area is safe and escape-proof – remove the leash.
Tie the end of the leash to the handler’s belt or moon / treat bag.
Let the instructor hold the leash whilst the handler is working the puppy.




6b. EASY DOWN:
Using the same basic principle as when teaching the sit.

The object of this exercise is to get the puppy to lie down on command by using a food or toy lure.

1. Begin with the pup in the newly learned “Sit” position. The puppy should be on leash as before, and ideally the pup should be on the handler’s left hand side facing the same direction as the handler.

2. The handler should have the treat in the hand, level with the pups nose (he can lick it as he works.) The handler should slowly bring the hand with the food down towards the middle of his front paws aiming for the floor. As it is about to connect with the ground very slowly draw the food hand fractionally forward – just enough to lure him into the “Down” position, this is accompanied with the soft command “Down” given in a gentle happy tone of voice In effort to reach the treat the puppy will automatically lie down!

4. Once he is in the down position, keep the food hand still so he may feed, and repeat the command “Down” accompanied with verbal praise in a jolly manner so that he can associate the command with the action.

5. Again – immediately praise and reward.

NOTE:
The “Down” is an extremely vulnerable position, and many less confident or nervous puppies are not always so keen to comply. Do not handle nervous puppies yourself and ensure that the owner (in frustration) does not use force.

Depending on the age group – the exercise can be postponed until a few lessons down the line, when the pup’s confidence has increased.
If the fear behaviour is mild, then simply get the handler to kneel on the floor, and wedge the pup gently on their left hand side, between the left forearm and the left knee. The pup can then be gently assisted into the down by slowly and very gently drawing his front legs forward and down with an accompanying treat and lots of praise.
Handlers should not be encouraged to comfort the puppy if he appears to be fearful and or the puppy could see the comfort as a rewarding, the handler would be actively encouraging the behaviour.


LEASH REACTIVITY
By far, one of the most common behaviour problems that dog trainers are asked to address is leash-reactivity. The normally calm, enjoyable dog that turns into a quivering, snarling, white-hot ball of canine terror at the mere sight of another dog on a walk. Owners of these dogs become members of the Midnight Walking Club, changing their walking schedules to avoid other dogs.
This behaviour appears in dogs purebred and mixed who were acquired as puppies from breeders and adopted from rescues. Leash-reactive behaviour does not discriminate by breed or background.
In spite of all the lunging, snarling, growling and barking, some of these dogs are actually quite friendly to other dogs when off-leash. yet, when they are on-leash and on a walk, they become the canine equivalent of Mr. Hyde. This is why the behaviour is more accurately referred to as leash-reactivity; the dog is reacting to something in the environment. Simply being attached to a leash does not incite aggressive behaviour.

CAUSEThere can be many causes for leash-reactive behaviours including genetics, lack of early socialization a traumatic experience, or a series of negative experiences.
From the dog's perspective, his reactive behaviour is very effective. Because each time he does it, the other dog goes away. He does not realize that the other dog probably lives two blocks over and is on the way home. In the dog's mind, his behaviour effectively prevented a serious conflict.

Some high-energy dogs develop leash-frustration, especially dogs that regularly visit the dog park. These dogs learn that other dogs equally rowdy, partake in unchecked play sessions and have poor self-control. When they spot another dog, they prepare to launch into their normal rowdy behaviour, only to find themselves restrained by the leash. Their excitement quickly turns into frustration, which can manifest as leash-reactive behaviour.
What is not a common cause of leash-reactive behaviour is lack of exercise (despite the claims of a popular television show). In the vast majority of leash-reactive cases, the dogs are walked regularly. In one recent case, the dog was being walked four times per day for over 45 minutes to an hour each walk. While physical exercise is just as important for dogs as it is in humans, it cannot solve behaviour problems...in either species.
THRESHOLDS Each dog's threshold, or "tipping point" is different. Some dogs may be able to walk past a dog on the other side of the street without reacting, while others will react from 100 yards away.
Once a dog is reacting to another dog, the part of the brain that processes the fight/flight reflex is active. When this part of the brain is active, the part of the brain that processes learning is shut off, so that the body can reserve as much energy as needed for survival. If you are being chased by a bear, you don't want your brain worrying about taxes.
Once a dog is "over-threshold" he is no longer learning and the opportunity to train a different behaviour is gone. Effective behaviour modification programs start by keeping the dog "under-threshold" or at a point where the dog is able to focus on the owner, and able to learn.
PUNISHMENT When people don't know how to handle a problem with their dogs, they almost always default to punishment. The punishment may vary from verbal reprimands to physical corrections. The majority of the time, this not only does not improve the leash-reactive behaviour, but makes it worse, as the dog's already negative association to strange dogs is now enhanced by the punishment.
Punishment often appears to work, because it suppresses the behaviour in the moment. However, most dog owners find that the dog renews the behaviour at each walk and, gradually, increases the frequency and intensity of the behaviour. The rule of effective punishment is that it completely stops the behaviour after 2-3 trials. If the behaviour keeps recurring, the punishment is not working. Temporary suppression of behaviour is not changed behaviour.
Punishment-based methods also require that the owner wait for the dog to exhibit the reactive behaviour. Not only is the dog not able to learn in this state, but he gets to practice the behaviour and the owner is now in a position of reacting to the dog's behaviour, instead of taking charge of the situation before it becomes a problem.
TREATMENT The most effective treatment for leash-reactive behaviour, no matter the cause, is the gradual process of desensitization and counter-conditioning (DS/CC).
Desensitization is the process of exposing the dog to other dogs, or trigger, at a distance where the dog is "under-threshold" or not reactive. At that point, the dog is then taught an alternate, more acceptable behaviour, such as focusing on the owner. Little by little, the gap between the reactive dog and the strange dog is closed and at each stage, the alternate behaviour is practiced and rewarded. This puts the owner in control of the situation rather than reacting to the dog.
OPTIONS While group classes can sometimes be a realistic goal for owners of leash-reactive dogs to work towards, they do not present an effective solution for the behaviour, itself. Leash-reactive behaviour can often escalate in this environment, especially if there are other leash-reactive dogs in the class. This environment only serves to reinforce the dog's belief that other dogs present a threat.
Some shelters and schools who offer remedial training (such as Paws Abilities) offer "growl classes" specifically for dogs with leash-reactive behaviours. The DS/CC process is practiced with a small group of dogs in a controlled, indoor environment. These classes give dogs owners skills they can transfer to the outside world.
Working individually with a behaviour consultant or trainer experienced in DS/CC methods provides the dog owner with a personalized training program for them and their dog.

In addition to learning the DS/CC process, a behaviour consultant "coaches" the owner, improving their handling skills and timing and providing support throughout the process.
CONCLUSION Even though this is a common behaviour problem, it is frustrating and often embarrassing for the owner. Behaviour modification requires a significant commitment on the part of the owner/s and can sometimes take months to address. However, with the average life span of our dogs steadily increasing to up to 20 years in some cases, a few months of dedication can yield more pleasant walks for the rest of your dog's life.

ATTENTION SEEKING BEHAVIOURS REVEALED:
From a dogs point of view, if a behaviour is successful, (which means that the dog is rewarded – even if it is unintentional - for exhibiting a particular behaviour), then he will repeat the behaviour.

Reward, to a dog, can be one of many things, the most important being receiving attention from his owner or pack leader! Most dogs even perceive negative attention as rewarding. Negative attention could be perceived as any response to a behaviour.

Dogs that constantly demand attention from their owners have learnt that this behaviour is successful. More often than not, the more attention they demand, the more attention the owners give – if only to keep the peace.

Attention seeking behaviour can present in many forms such as:-
Demanding to be stroked
Nudging for a stroke
Pawing
Resting his head on your lap for a stroke
Constantly demanding to be let in / out
Demanding food / water
Refusal to eat – especially in the hope of being hand fed in overindulged cases.
Begging
Vocalisation (the reward is the owners yelling “shut up”
Vocalisation when the owner is on the telephone.
Toy control
Demanding to play (with or without toys)
Demanding to go for a walk (ritualised behaviours)
Begging at the table
Physical exhibition of neurosis – to receive a response or comfort (shivering etc)
Jumping up and excitable behaviour
Some destructive behaviours.
Leash forging (pulling on the lead)
Jumping up against you to be picked up or carried.

Dogs who exhibit “attention seeking” behaviours are often insecure and over-indulged. These dogs often are suffering from stress caused by a lack of leadership – thus the basic pack responsibilities are directly on their shoulders. If a human does not provide leadership, the dog will instinctively have to take over that role.

In this regard, dogs are also often receive conflicting signals from their owners – thus adding to their confusion and indirectly encouraging the behaviour – if only to receive a response.

Attention seeking dogs often are low ranking individuals, given owner status that they have not earned – this also causes confusion and encourages negative behaviours and dissention in a pack.

Anthromorphisismn (accrediting animals with human feelings and emotions) causes insecure, unhappy dogs.

WAYS TO REDUCE OR ELIMINATE ATTENTION SEEKING BEHAVIOUR:
Ignore negative behaviour and only reward and react to “good” or positive behaviours.
Use the “doggie time out” principles – which include – If the dog wants to be included in YOUR pack he has to abide by your rules.




Become a good leader and decision maker – do not let the dog make any decisions. This will make you more valuable, reduce much doggy stress, and make your dog feel more secure as it lifts much (decision making / high ranking) responsibilities off his shoulders.
Ensure that you initiate any contact with the dog – for example, if your dog comes and demands to play, ignore him until he stops demanding. Wait a couple of minutes and then call him for a game. In this way you have taken control, been the decision maker and rewarded the dog be encouraging the “good” behaviour to be repeated (as when he was calm and quiet – you then called him for a game)
Follow the “Dogs Boss” instructions as provided earlier.
Distraction techniques can also be fully utilised especially “startle” responses as previously described.
If the dog repeatedly jumps up against you for a stroke or to be picked up. As he starts his “routine” then without speaking or reacting, simply jump up, march out of the room, and slam the door in his face. Give it a minute or two and then return and repeat if necessary. The second the dog does not demand to be picked up, then call him to you and pick him up and give him attention. Reward only good behaviour. This principle can be followed through to reduce various attention seeking behaviours.

THREE RULES FOR A WELL BEHAVED DOG!
1. Consistency: Communication between different species is not an easy task, especially when one species can talk and the other can't! Inconsistency makes that task all the more difficult. By adopting consistent behaviours in yourself, setting consistent, gentle, boundaries, and keeping some sort of consistent routine - your dog will have an easier job of figuring out what you expect.
2. Lead by example: Dogs tend to mimic our actions. Don't rely on them interpreting our intentions correctly. If we yell at our dog for being aggressive, this can lead to more aggression from our dog. They don't necessarily understand that we are angry and upset with their actions, they just follow our lead. When we learn calm approaches to dealing with this sort of problem, our lead is followed with calmness in return.
3. Reward good behaviour not bad! Only react to behaviour that you want repeated. Ignore all bad or unwanted behaviour, only react to good or desired behaviour. Behaviour that is effectively rewarded tends to increase or continue. Therefore, it makes sense to reward the behaviour we want to see in our dogs. In the same way we get paid to work, our dogs expect to be paid too. Life in the pack works that way; food, security, shelter, play and social contact are the rewards dogs work for. Whilst our pet dogs get most of this stuff for free, it makes sense to ask them to do something to earn it, no matter how simple the task. Asking a dog to sit before letting it outside, or asking for a short 'stay' before being fed are two simple examples.
By adopting these three qualities, and making them habits in your day to day interaction with your dogs, you will see positive changes in your relationship. Dogs do respect these qualities and respond in kind with faithful companionship

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Louise
Consulting Rooms (011) 969-4467 (if the lines are not stolen again!) Mobile 082-890-0905 E-mail louthomp@mweb.co.za