Paws News March 2009

“Paws Abilities” - Behaviour & Learning Centre
Newsletter Number 28 - MARCH 2009


A warm hello to all Paws family and friends,

Well some more “venting” from me in this issue, as the ugly reality of the back yard puppy industry once again rears its ugly head; I have also included some information about some of the controversy regarding greyhound racing which could be a reality in SA in the near future, and of course we have some useful tips and hints on training and behaviour.


TOP DOGS ASSESSMENT:
The TOP DOGS “Touch our Pets” therapy dog assessment was held at Paws Abilities on Sunday, and a great time was had by all. The dogs and handlers being assessed were put through their paces and presented with various different challenges, in order to evaluate their temperament suitability – for undertaking therapy work. An overall high standard was seen from both dogs and handlers. These dogs and their handlers are a dedicated group of individuals who really make a difference in many people’s lives. Congratulations to all those who passed, and I would like to wish them well in their therapy career – which is after all, spreading smiles for miles and miles!

PRESS RELEASE ISSUED BY THE WET NOSE ANIMAL RESCUE CENTRE Date: 17 FEBRUARY 2009
THE HARDCORE TRUTH AND MISERY OF PUPPY MILLING IN SOUTH AFRICA “How much is that doggy in the window?’ Ever wondered where that cute little puppy in the pet shop window comes from? The sad reality is that it could very well come from one of the many disgusting puppy mills throughout the country.
On Tuesday 10 February Wet Nose Animal Rescue Centre’s Inspector Wynand le Roux accompanied a team from Jacaranda 94.2fm to one of these alleged puppy mills in Haakdoringboom, Pretoria North, with the aim of exposing this shameful practice and to allow the media to see first hand just what goes on behind the scenes. What they came across will not easily be forgotten by the team or anyone else who has seen the photos and the video footage taken and is now available on the Jacaranda 94.2fm Blog website!
Rotten chicken carcasses littered the plot, feathers were all over the place, cow’s udders were lying around to be eaten and the stench was unbearable. Flies were feasting on dogs ears causing big open wounds while a three- legged pot in the middle of the room where the puppies are born was crawling with maggots!! Dogs were being housed in dilapidated shacks all over the plot and they had to fight their way through long grass to find some of the dogs which were being housed in camps that were completely hidden amongst the mess and the bush!
No animal should have to live under these circumstances. Most of the dogs are free to roam around as they wish. This means that they come on heat and fights break out amongst them. One poor little dog had deep gashes in her back as a result of these fights. Her wounds had however remained un-noticed and un-treated! It is a case of who covers who, no-one would know, and YOU are the one that ends up paying for a “pure bred pedigreed dog”, when that is not what your hard earned money or love for the breed expects. The cute little bull dog that you have paid in excess of R5000.00 for, looks quite the picture but as she/he grows up, you notice you have a bulldog cross boxer.
On Monday 16 February Wet Nose returned to the plot together with a Health Inspector. Mr van Aardt arrived shortly afterwards insisting that his dogs were in good condition and that there was nothing wrong with the conditions in which the dogs were being kept. After what seemed like forever, the negotiations in the hot sun were resolved and Mr van Aardt signed over forty four of his dogs to Wet Nose Animal Rescue Centre to be re-homed.
Thirty five of the dogs were immediately transported to Wet Nose and the remaining nine will be collected during the week. The dogs were checked for injuries and sicknesses and some are currently under veterinary care. They have all been bathed, which was a traumatic experience for them as they are not at all used to water, despite the filth they were living in. Some seem not to have had much contact with people and are terrified to be approached or touched.
Having taken in so many dogs has put Wet Nose under a lot of strain as there are now almost two hundred dogs in their care. Being a “Right to Life” organisation means that none of the dogs will be put down, but will instead be housed, fed, medicated and loved until the day that every one of them gets a home.
This is a monumental task to take on and Wet Nose is appealing to all animal lovers for donations of food, bowls, funds and a “for-ever Home” for these orphans saved from a living HELL!
So, next time you see that cute little puppy in the window, make an extra effort to find out where it comes from! Don’t breed or buy while “Homeless Animals Die”.
Note from the Editor: Don’t think that this is an isolated case. It is not! This filthy trade is widespread throughout the country – there is probably a puppy mill on your own back door step! As long as the public continue to buy puppies from dealers, puppy brokers, pet shops, flea markets and the side of the road, the suffering will continue! This is a simple case of supply and demand. If there was not a demand there would not be a need to mass produce puppies in this disgusting manner.
Where do you think most of these establishments get their “stock” – come-on, no self respecting, ethical breeder would ever let their prodigy be sold in a pet shop!
There is another kind of parasite who is also thriving in our midst – that is - puppy dealers or brokers. These are the middlemen who buy up entire litters – sometimes from the public (who are often just glad to get rid of a litter that was a mistake) They check the local newspapers, junk mail type publications, and even the ad’s at vet’s as a source to “obtain stock” before selling them onto the pet shops and other outlets (of course they first take their cut). The bottom line is that – these little souls are “stock” – no more, no less! It is all about turning over a profit! .
Ed’s Note:
As we are on the subject of controversy –Greyhound racing is also on the menu. The National Council of SPCA’s have already (thankfully) voiced their opposition and formal objection to the possibility of introducing legal Greyhound racing in SA (see the NSPCA website) I have included this article which recently appeared in a Natal newspaper, and some responses from a couple of people who are pro the “sport”.!

GREYHOUND RACING / DYING TO RUN (By Glynn Anderson)
The debate is raging right now whether greyhound racing should be legalized in SA. or not. The two factions, with most at stake, are the animal welfare organizations who are vehemently opposed to legalizing the industry for humane reasons, as opposed to those who stand to profit and prosper from legalizing yet another form of gambling.

Pro dog racing.
On the surface, dog racing may appear to be quite harmless as these long legged, slender dogs are in their element on the race track, doing what they were bred to do best which is to run. Well think again because that is not the full picture but rather what proponents would have us believe.

Dog racing promoters sell the idea to the public as a wholesome and entertaining sport where nice people can take their families on a Sunday afternoon to watch the doggies run ... perhaps have a little flutter and go home richer than when they arrived.

This faction also glosses over any talk of mistreatment of the animals by insisting the industry will be strictly controlled and regulated, and the dogs will live like kings. Further more, they also estimate by legislating their so called sport, 30,000. new jobs will be created - and then they play their dazzling trump card tempting the government with an extra R1.5 billion a year in taxes. It certainly seems enticing enough on the surface but what about it’s sinister underbelly which is so carefully hidden from the public.

The shocking facts the public are not told..
The truth is Greyhound racing is about exploiting mans best friend in the worst possible way . Unfortunately whenever animals are used as a resource to make money, they are no longer treated as sentient, intelligent creatures but rather as dispensable commodities to be disposed of when they are no longer of use. Just like broken appliances, these poor dogs are dumped or killed en mass when they have served their usefulness - often to be left in rotting piles minus their tattooed ears which are cut off to ensure their breeders cannot be traced.

Underground Racing in SA.
Illegal greyhound racing is alive and well in SA. with regular meetings taking place right under our noses, on specially built oval race tracks in CT, Gauteng and KZN. And the police are unable or unwilling to intervene which makes promises of strict regulations nothing more than a sick joke.

Stats.
SA stats. are unavailable but perhaps we must learn a lesson from the USA, Australia and the UK where dog racing is still practiced. It would appear these countries register about 40,000 greyhound pups a year which illustrates the extend of the industry.
And of these puppies probably only a fraction ever reach the tracks due to poor performance, injuries and disease which leaves about 35,000 . unwanted animals per country per year which have to be disposed of.

It appears about 20.000 per country, per year are killed while the rest are shipped off to be raced in third world countries for bush hunting, or to China where dog meat is a staple food or become cheap carcass meal used in the manufacture of pet food. Many more land up in laboratories and are used for medical research. While a great number are simply abandoned (some still wearing muzzles) starve to death or die from abuse, disease, neglect and injury. The lucky few will be rescued by overstretched welfare shelters where the dogs will be adopted or at least given a humane end.

A racing dogs life.
A racing greyhound’s life begins in misery from the time they are born. These dogs have a working lifespan of about 4 years during which time they are kept in appalling conditions , lean and hungry, in small cages and only taken out for a couple of hours a day to train or race. Injuries are prolific and often veterinary care is withheld for financial reasons. Unattended fractured and broken bones are common in breeding bitches which live lives of pure hell, reproducing large litters of puppies every season - resulting in the endless supply and surplus of dogs. Potential winners are well cared for but it is only the crème de la crème which ever reaches the tracks. Most are retired with a boltgun or bullet.

Blood sport.
But more shocking are the training methods used to improve the speed of the runners. Although mechanical lures (often made from cat fur) are used during meets, the best kept secret is live cats, rabbits and rejected greyhound puppies are used as bait to increase motivation and prey drive. In America alone it’s estimated 100,00 live animals are torn apart and devoured by hungry dogs each year during training sessions.

Historically dog racing has proven to be a non transparent, unregulated and inhumane industry, widely open to abuse and cruelty. South Africa would do well not to allow this genie out of the lamp in order for the rich to get richer and the poor, poorer, at the expense of millions of innocent lives. There is no better predictor of the future than the past.
Please say no if you care.

For more information visit: www.peta.org/mc/facts/fsent2.html



Here is a response letter from someone who is “Pro” greyhound racing.

Dear Glynne,
I Read your article in the witness dated February 18.
I personally don’t agree with some of the issues you raised and i will drop off a letter on Friday at the witness with a current news paper article to expose to you some real facts in the South African landscape that you have omitted to mention.

I attach a letter from the WORLD GREYHOUND FEDERATION which supports what we as racing greyhound lovers feel.

Greyhound racing world wide has many millions of supporters and in South Africa that is probably tens of thousands, we in our experience in South Africa have not seen all these supposed worst case scenarios that keep being brought forward by various anti racing lobbies.

We believe because they are not focused on the modern up to date racing scenario that exists IN SOUTH AFRICA, they are lumping the whole issue with unwanted dogs in the whole country .

Outdated issues like small cramped kennels, live lures etc. are not part of today’s industry. Sweden with an animal rights record way above ours ,where dumping dogs in a dump site as done by our own SPCA would never occur, have legalized dog racing and have legislation in place to manage all aspects of the industry including welfare.

Do any animal rights and welfare groups ever mention that they have seen these regulations? they cant have ,as then kennel sizes and issues around welfare would not be raised as we see in the media today.

Regards Clive P Murphy





Ed’s note: and then we have this little gem . . . . . . .

Dear Editor,

I write as the Australian and World President of Greyhound Racing to dispel some of the adverse comments being made in a number of South African newspapers. I understand that the Parliament is conducting an enquiry into the possible legalisation of greyhound racing in your country, and I offer the following information.

Greyhound racing operates successfully in many countries throughout the world, including the USA, the UK and Ireland, Australia, New Zealand, Vietnam, and many more. In the countries I have mentioned, it is a well regulated industry, offering not only enjoyment to many thousands of people, but also providing significant income to governments and employment opportunities for both younger and older participants.

In the countries I have mentioned, the main priority is the welfare of the animals. The World Greyhound Racing Federation has a requirement that countries and organizations which apply for membership must sign and abide by a set of protocols which relate to animal welfare. These protocols must be strictly adhered to, otherwise the country concerned will be excluded from membership of our organization.

It is distressing to us that often well intentioned members of the public, who like ourselves are animal lovers, are all too ready to point the finger at greyhound racing activities, and attribute often fictitious reports of unsubstantiated incidents.

By far the majority of our Australian owners and trainers with whom I am primarily involved, give priority to their greyhounds above all else. This was very graphically displayed during our recent devastating bushfires in Victoria Australia. Moving their dogs to a safe location was more important to many greyhound owners than attempting to save their properties.

Greyhounds love to run and chase. We do not use live game to encourage this; tracks throughout the world use a mechanical tin hare as a lure. There is little difference between horse racing and greyhound racing, other than the greyhounds do not require the direction of a human being to encourage their efforts.

When the South African Government debates the legalisation of greyhound racing, I am confident that they will ensure that the industry is tightly regulated, has a drug free policy for racing greyhounds, and has the strictest animal welfare protocols reflected in the legislation.

With these measures in place, many thousands of people in South Africa will be able to enjoy a very worthwhile and exciting sport, while at the same time realising that their government is able to spend more on other essentials like health, education and transport as a result of receiving additional funds from wagering turnover.

Yours sincerely,
Jan Wilson,
President - World Greyhound Racing Federation
Chairman - Greyhound Racing Victoria
Chairman - Greyhounds Australasia


Ed’s Note
Sounds too good to be true – “strict rules” “tight regulations” Has this person ever been to South Africa? Our track record of compliance to any law is suspect to say the least! The SA track record for animal abuse is horrendous. We have one of the best set of animal protection laws in the world – if they are applied! So prey tell me if our current laws are generally not applied - who is going to enforce the abovementioned “strict rules” and “tight regulations” ?

Our animal welfare agencies are completely overwhelmed with the current workload. It is not logistically possible for them to be able to adequately police a greyhound industry. Does that mean the greyhound organisations are going to govern and enforce their “strict rules and regulations”? Well that sounds nice and tidy – doesn’t it!

We have enough animal misery in this county – do we really need to open this door?

As I said previously - Our combined animal welfare agencies are currently unable to cope with the huge number of unwanted dogs. We live in a country of over dog-population – there are simply far too many dogs. By bringing in even more opportunities for disreputable breeders to produce a whole new “product-line” and for gamblers to make a fast buck and to encourage the already poverty stricken working class to spend more money on gambling – we will be opening Pandora’s box! This will not only affect animals – but add to human poverty as well as the poor get poorer and the rich get richer!

As a note of interest, to compare the greyhound industry with horse racing is certainly nothing to brag about! I can tell you from personal experience, that many ex-racehorses end up in disastrous circumstances. Take a drive round some of the informal settlements – you can still see them pulling carts. I know, because several of them have passed through my own hands (rescues) in the past couple of decades! Fortunately their story had a happy ending. The same cannot be said for the thousands who are sold off, when it is realised that they are not going to make the racing “grade” – or whose bloodlines are not good enough - many of them end up in living lives of misery!

THE FINE ART OF OBSERVATIONby Suzanne Clothier
Understanding, analyzing and resolving behaviour or performance problems requires a good deal of detective work. As the famous Sherlock Holmes knew, no detail, however small, is insignificant. The more acutely you are able to observe the dog, the more accurate your analysis will be. Acute observation and attention to detail is the hallmark not only of great detectives, but of great trainers.
One of my most bemusing moments as a trainer came when I was working with a dog who had bitten several people. As I worked the dog over a variety of obstacles, his owner commented several times, "I can't believe he hasn't bitten you yet!" I never could decide if she was simply amazed or just disappointed. I wasn't bitten because I watched the dog for even the smallest sign that he was beginning to feel threatened.
With this dog, subtle changes in his breathing pattern, a compression of the lips and a constriction of the pupils gave me the only clues I needed. At that point, with no further clues and without pushing until I saw more dramatic signs, it was a simple matter to shift our activity to something less threatening and allow the dog to calm down. Ignoring these clear but subtle signs would have undoubtedly caused the behaviour to escalate until perhaps we had a full blown aggressive episode ending in a bite. (This dog has gone on to become a wonderful companion who easily earned his CGC certificate, and a photo of him in Santa's lap at a "Photo With Santa" fund raiser remains my favourite of him.)
Dogs live and act in a world of exquisitely subtle signals in their interactions with each other. Our observations and communications in our interactions with them must seem unbelievably coarse at times to these sophisticates of non-verbal communication. Turned around the other way, we would perceive such inattentiveness to our subtle signals as rude, uncaring or perhaps simply stupid. Fortunately for us, dogs bring to the human-dog relationship their wonderful powers of observation, allowing them to be highly aware of our posture, breathing, muscular tensions, and facial expressions, often reacting to changes of which we are not aware. Training or behaviour problems often result from the dog's response to signals we unknowingly have sent. Unfortunately, the dog is often blamed rather than the handler.
Our responsibility as handlers and trainers is to attempt to be as skilled in our observations and non-verbal communications with our dogs as they are in their interactions with us. Our reliance on verbal communication is perhaps one of the biggest stumbling block in the training process. As a rule, any concept that cannot be fully explained in a non-verbal way is a concept that a dog will be unable to grasp.
Learning to become skilled as an observer requires that you practice these skills. As the artist Frederick Franck said in The Art of Seeing, "We often look, but we rarely see." Information gathered through careful observation is crucial. Without such information, you cannot make any informed decisions on the dog's behalf.
A sad example is a Sheltie presented to me at an Integrated Approach seminar. The handler's complaint was that no matter what technique they used, the dog was "lazy" and continued to sit crooked. For over a year, she and her instructor had used increasing amounts of compulsion to force the dog to sit straight. A quick observation showed that the dog moved with his entire body bent slightly to the right, and his tail did not hang straight but over his right hock. Naturally, when he sat, he was unable to sit straight - he couldn't even walk in a straight line. I found it shocking that not once did the handler or the instructor take the time to really look at the dog - the answer was there all along. The dog was doing his very best, but had a real, physical limitation that prevented him from achieving the goal set for him by his handler.
Take the time to observe your dog carefully and often. Like us, dogs change, have off days, injure themselves and get confused. If you are observant about your dog's capabilities and limitations, you can make informed decisions. Assumptions about a dog's understanding or capabilities, unless confirmed by careful observation of the dog himself, can lead to training problems, undermine or destroy your relationship with the dog, and in some cases, are tantamount to cruelty.


DOG OBEDIENCE TRAINING – AN OVERVIEW:

Dog Training can be Divided into Three Categories.
1. Restrictive routines
2. Active routines
3. Combination routines

The “Sit Stay”, “Down Stay”, & “Stand for Examination” are wholly “Restrictive routines.
Dog jumping and retrieving are “Active Routines.”
Exercises such as “Heelwork” and “Recalls” are considered “Combination routines.”

One of the problems with dog training is that in the beginning the usual sequences of exercises learnt in training are normally “restrictive routines”. As the first year of a dog’s life is the most physically active period of his life, it has two distinct disadvantages!

1. It fails to take into account, and fails to capitalise on the young dogs natural tendencies. The young dogs natural tendencies are to be active and playful. Young dogs also have very short attention spans and need constant direction of their attention.

2. It also introduces exercises that the young dog finds boring and sometimes even unpleasant, which could hinder attempts to build a positive attitude towards working with his handler.

The positive association of “play”, can form the beginning of a strong human canine bond, thus develops the positive attitude so desirable in future training. This could be called the “desire to learn” or the “will to please” without which, no learning can take place!

To too many people, “Training” means punishment, yelling and being forceful.
It has been proved beyond a shadow of doubt, that positive reinforcement, and reward based learning methods, are far more successful than any negative methods of training!

Play and fun in training – especially in the early impressionable age is often totally neglected! By beginning with play exercises, the handler learns to relax, be happy and encourage his young dog/puppy, thus developing a positive attitude, which is so necessary when training any species of animal.

As the young pup matures and develops – the reward of play (combined with any other motivations necessary i.e. treats, toys, ball etc) becomes a wonderful habit. Learning and working is such fun the dog actively looks forward to his training sessions.


CLICKER TIPS

TEACHING YOUR DOG TO GO TO AND STAY ON A MAT:
DISCUSSION:
Wow, your dog is well-enough trained that you're going to start putting some of her learned behaviours together into a chain! And using things she knows already that look sort of like new things you'll be teaching her!
Congratulations!

Go To Mat is a combination of Distance work (she has to go over THERE to the mat, just like she has to go over THERE to go around the pole), Crate (she has to control herself over THERE with you over HERE), and Down (she has to lie down when she gets to the mat). Some people might think that it is a complicated set of behaviours, but I have found that it is usually an easy one to learn and to teach.

And how important is this behaviour?
Picture your dog crated whenever you need a moment without her, no matter where you are, and without you having to cart a crate around. When I teach a class or do a seminar, my demo and Service Dog (Scuba) is always with me, ready when I need her, but she's never wandering around distracting people or dogs because she's on a grooming table or a mat.

From the comments I've had, this seems like a big hairy deal to many people, yet it's one of the first behaviours I taught her and it's easy for both of us. Picture going for a walk and finding someone having a seizure. Hop your dog up on a nearby bench or slip your coat or jersey off and she can “go to mat” and leave you free to deal with the situation.

Sure, you could ask her for a Down Stay, but you never know, when you're not looking, who's going to be petting her, stepping on her, shooing her. And no matter how good your Down Stay gets to be, your Go To Mat could be better. I don't know why, but dogs are more secure with something to mark the spot than without, but there it is.

EASY BEGINNINGS:
Get a mat. You can start with a dog bed, a towel, a carpet sample, a jacket. Use the same mat for at least the first couple of weeks. Once she understands the behaviour, you can start playing around with different mats. Get your treats, clicker, and mat.
Sit down and put your mat on the floor close to you where you think the dog will naturally be when she realizes you have food – probably right in front of you. The dog comes over, stands on the mat, you click (boy, training dogs is hard work). That's setting yourself up for success, then waiting for the behaviour to happen so you can catch it. Click and toss the treat on the mat X10, then toss the next treat off the mat. Click when the dog returns to the mat and toss the next ten treats on the mat, then another one off the mat.

Move the mat A FEW INCHES away from you. Click when the dog returns to the mat, and the next ten treats on the mat. Then toss one off the mat. Why are you tossing it off the mat? This gets the dog OFF the mat, and gives her a chance to get back ON the mat.

There are two parts to this behaviour:
a) BE on the mat, and
b) GET on the mat.

Repeat this sequence another ten times, then move the mat a few more inches away from you. Keep going. When you finally get the mat far enough away from you that she's not going to hit it naturally, she might go looking for it (EE HAH), or you might have to switch from waiting to shaping. If she can't find it, sit with a totally quiet body and LOOK at the mat. When she turns her head toward it, or moves her body closer to it, click, and toss the treat on the mat (the art of training is in how you set things up and how you combine waiting, shaping, and luring into an explanation that the dog can understand).

Now go to five clicks with treats tossed on the mat, one click with treat off the mat, then five more on, and one off. When she's figured out the game and is finding the mat by herself every time, you can move to one on, one off OR you can move the mat further and further away from you.

Remember, when you make ONE thing about a behaviour more difficult, you have to make everything else simpler, so every time you move the mat, go back to clicking X10 and tossing the treat on the mat, then once tossing the treat off. You want the clicker to keep saying "Yes, no matter where the mat is, I'm still talking about the mat!"

If you tell her this often enough, you should get to the point where you have to hide the mat to get any other behaviours out of her. If she sees the mat; she should be heading for it.

One more part of the equation. She needs to be ON the mat, not just TOUCHING it. Once she's eager to head for the mat, you can start shaping the number of paws on it. If she's consistently putting two paws on, start with that as your base behaviour. Click two paws on X10, tossing the treats away from the mat. Then stop clicking. She runs back to the mat, puts her two paws on, looks expectantly for the treat. Nope, sorry, not good enough. IF she really knows that you've been clicking her for being on the mat, you'll get what I call the "Hey, Stupid!" reaction. She looks at you, she waits for the click, she doesn't get it, she frowns, and she shouts "Hey, Stupid! I DID stand on the mat! LOOK!" and in that "LOOK", she does the behaviour again. She moves further on to the mat, just to make sure you don't miss it THIS time. Click three paws on, and move on from there until you've got all four paws on. You need to be very clear about your criteria with this behaviour, or you'll pretty soon have her standing NEAR the mat wanting a click.

PROBLEM SOLVING:
SHE JUST STARES AT ME AND DOESN'T LOOK FOR THE MAT! Just back up, you moved the mat too fast. Or sit back and use the mat as shaping practise for both of you. And do other things with the mat that aren't in prime training time – for instance, hold her dish and walk casually around the room (she's following, of course). Walk around until you've "accidentally" gotten her on the mat, click, and put the dish down – on the mat. SHE JUST STANDS ON THE MAT INSTEAD OF LYING DOWN! No big deal, Down isn't part of the behaviour at this level. Click it if it happens, otherwise don't worry about it.



ADDING A CUE:
You know how to add cues now, right? Don't say a word until the dog is offering you the behaviour. When she's running to the mat, over and over again, practically screaming "Look, I'm running to the mat! Look, my paws are on the mat! Aren't you going to click?!” It's time to tell her what the behaviour is called. I call it "Hit the rack".

CONTINUING EDUCATION:
As we're going to be asking for an automatic Down on the mat in the next Level, you might as well start clicking any indication of sitting or lying down on the mat. Move the mat around the room (start moving it slowly, or else put it in a totally new place and start training it from scratch) – I want to be able to tell the dog to Hit The Rack and have HER do the work of figuring out where the mat is. If you have access to a doggy hammock or pause table, you can transfer your Go To Mat to the that as well (Holy cow, the dog's first agility behaviour!).

One trick I really like (but can't use as Scuba is a Service Dog. Her main job is picking things up, and her BEST job is picking up her leash – I put her in an obedience fun match once and it took me five minutes to get my leash on the ground behind her. Every time I put it down, she picked it up and handed it back to me!) is using the leash as a Mat. Wherever you are with your dog, you've got a leash, right? If I was going to teach this, I'd start with a very long leash, or a couple of leashes snapped together to make a fairly large puddle of leashes, then cut it back to one 4' leash. Or you could use your purse; Your mitts; Your car keys; A chair; A couch; A bench in a park; Using the leash as a Mat reminds me of another great trick I saw once, though it has only to do with leashes and not with this behaviour. The handler threw her leash down on the ground yelling "SNAKE, SNAKE!" and the dog leaped into her arms.

LEVEL THREE
Dog goes to his mat, bed, etc from 5’ away; one cue only, lies down, 1 cue only, and remains Down without fussing with no additional cues for one minute.

DISCUSSION:
Another of the many duration behaviours in this Level. Here we're asking the dog to hold a Down Stay, but as the time gets up around ten minutes, we'll relax the Down as long as she stays on the mat.

EASY BEGINNINGS:
Two things added at this Level – Down on the mat, and Staying on the mat. Start with Down. You've got a good Down on cue from L2, and in L3 Downs you're working on Down from a distance – this fits in nicely with both of those. You can simply ask her to Down when she's on the mat. Down, click, and toss the treat off the mat. Down, click, toss. X10, then wait to see if she offers you a Down when she gets to the mat. If she does, X20, click, toss off the mat. If she doesn't, another ten giving her the Down cue and try for the volunteer behaviour again. Or, you can NOT cue the Down, just start right in on duration. She goes to the mat, you count ONE, click, toss off the mat. She goes to the mat; you count TWO, click, toss off the mat. Etc. If she hasn't started to lie down on the mat by the time you get to 20, I'd go back to the first paragraph and start cueing it before you click.

When she has a clear understanding that she goes to the mat and lies down on it, you can start your duration counts. For this, toss the reward ON the mat X10, then once OFF the mat, then continue your count. So, she gets on the mat and lies down, click, toss ON. She's down on the mat, count two, click, toss ON. She's down on the mat, count three, click, toss ON, etc. She's down on the mat, count ten, click, toss OFF the mat. She runs to get it, gets back on and down on the mat, count eleven, click, toss ON, etc. As usual, when she sits up or gets off the mat at, say, 12 seconds, get her back on the mat and start your count over again from one second/click, two seconds/click, etc.

PROBLEM SOLVING:
SHE'LL STAY FOR 30 SECONDS ON THE MAT BUT SHE WON'T STAY ANYWHERE ELSE! Of course not. You haven't yet trained her anywhere else. Stay on a mat may look exactly like stay in the front hall to US, but they don't look anything like the same thing to a dog. By the time you've started from scratch and explained Stay to her in thirty different places, she'll be starting to understand. Even putting the mat in the front hall won't seem the same to her as having the mat in the living room.

ADDING A CUE:
I don't use any cue for STAYING on the mat. The initial Go To Mat cue will get the dog to the mat. Once there, she's on her own. You're teaching her to stay on the mat until you click or call her or otherwise release her.

CONTINUING EDUCATION:
The more she practices staying on the mat, the better she'll know it. Move the mat around your house. Use different mats. Use mats, and low tables, hammocks, clothing. And remember, each time you change ONE thing about what the dog knows, change everything else to make it easier, so if you use a different mat, be sure to keep it in a place she knows, and lower the distance and time. If you change the place you put the mat, use the same mat, and lower the distance and time. Effort you put in now to help her understand new things will be well worth it later, because, like everything else you teach her, the more practise she has in generalizing a behaviour, the better she'll be at it.

LEVEL FOUR
Dog goes to his mat, bed, or pause table from 10’ away, lies down and remains Down with no fussing for 2 minutes. Appropriate cues.

DISCUSSION:
Remember to decrease the time when you increase the distance, and vice versa. Getting a solid voice cue is one of the most important parts of the behaviour at this Level.

EASY BEGINNINGS:
It makes no difference whether you increase distance first, or time. The choice is yours. Best results (or most
visible results) will probably be gained by alternating. So work going to the mat up to 6', then cut back to 4' and make sure you have your Level Three 60 second Stay solid. Then go on to 80 seconds. Go back to maybe 10 seconds on the mat, but work the distance to the mat up to 8'. Cut your distance back down to 6' and work your time up to 100 seconds. Go back to 20 seconds and work your distance to the full 10'. Cut your distance to 8' and work your time all the way up to 2 minutes. Finally, work your distance back up to 10'.

CONTINUING EDUCATION:
Pay some careful attention to your cue at this Level. With a short distance and no duration on the Stay, move your mat around so the dog has to look for it a bit to find it. When she's really good at finding it, no matter where in the room you put it, put the cue back on. Do it a LOT. In this behaviour's most useful incarnation, you can walk towards one end of a training area, cue Go To Mat, and have the dog run out ahead of you and find something to park on. Wait a minute, does that sound like really good distance on the agility pause table? Why yes, I think it does!

At this Level, you can also start finding better things to do than staring at your dog for two minutes. Cut back to short distances and short durations and fold some clothes. Rinse a couple of dishes. Sweep the floor. Again, this is an excellent leading to the pause table, works just as well for leadouts at the start line in agility, and is also the beginning of the out-of-sight stays in obedience.

LEVEL FIVE
Dog goes to his mat, bed, or pause table from 20’ away and remains down for 5 minutes. Appropriate cues.

DISCUSSION:
The behaviour is starting to look like it will when it's finished. Try doing the dishes or other chores while you're working through the five minutes.

LEVEL SIX
Dog goes to his mat/bed/pause table from 20’ away and stays there for 15 minutes. Appropriate cues.

DISCUSSION:
This is the complete behaviour. We expect the dog to be able to find her mat pretty much anywhere in a training area, and we no longer require her to stay Down while she's on the mat. This means she can stand up, stretch, roll on her back, or otherwise relax on her own terms, as long as she stays on the mat.

LEVEL SEVEN
Dog goes to his mat/bed/pause table from 20’ away on one cue and remains there with no fuss for 30 minutes. This behaviour must be performed with no food or clicker in the room or area.

DISCUSSION:
The same behaviour as we asked for at the previous Level, twice as long. Doing it without rewards in the area means the dog is doing the behaviour as a part of her everyday life rather than as a "trick" which requires an immediate reinforcer.


Brontophobia - Fear of Thunder Storms
Taken from the ABC of SA Newsletter

This is a common problem and one that often results in lost and injured dogs. One can only imagine the absolute fear and terror that must be experienced by brontophobic dogs.

When a dog has what appears to be an irrational fear of anything, a process of either desensitisation or habituation is required to address the problem. However when dealing with brontophobia it is incredibly difficult to apply this principle. This is due to the unpredictability of storms and the impossibility of recreating the exact scenario.

So one has to do the best one can. Providing a safe haven is the first step. Garages are not ideal, as they tend to amplify the sounds of a storm. A carpeted room with drawn curtains is more suitable.
A safe den (just big enough for one dog) is also beneficial. This can be as elaborate as a travel crate, or a sturdy cardboard box with a heavy blanket draped over it. Leaving a radio playing will also provide some background noise and minimise the shock of a clap of thunder slightly.

Many brontophobic dogs start showing fearful behaviour long before the storm breaks. It is assumed that they feel the changes in barometric pressure and while this in itself can’t do any harm, it becomes a secondary reinforcer.

It may be an idea to install a barometer and therefore have a better indication of when a storm is on the way. However it is likely that your dog may be better than the barometer at indicating changes in barometric pressure!

It is also thought that an added complication may be the static charges in the air that we experience with our intense Highveld storms. Some people have reported success by spraying their dog’s coats with a diluted mixture of fabric softener to reduce the static build-up. If a dog has a heavy coat, this may help them to an extent.

Some also advise letting the dog trail a lead (just long enough to make contact with the ground and with the loop removed) to “earth” the dog and thereby reduce the static charge. However I would be very hesitant to use this on a dog prone to running during storms for fear of the line getting caught up.

There has been some success reported with the use of DAP (Dog Appeasing Pheromones) in dealing with brontophobic dogs. The pheromone is a synthetic version of the pheromone that a mother releases when nursing her young. It is thus thought that the DAP creates a feeling of well-being. It is certainly worth a try. DAP diffusers can be purchased from most vets.

Other modalities such as T-Touch can be very useful in “re-teaching” alternate behaviours and allowing the animal to open his mind to the possibility of behaving in a different manner when confronted with a thunderstorm.

How one reacts and interacts with a dog during storms is very important. One should have provided the safe haven as described and simply go about one’s business as usual. Trying to comfort and soothe the dog will only reinforce its fear. Imagine a non-brontophobic bitch with her puppies during a storm. She will not lavish extra attention of the puppies, she stays neutral, nonplussed and the pups learn that there is nothing to be afraid of. Because there is “no” consequence to the stimulus of the thunder the puppies become habituated. As always nature knows best.

It appears that most brontophobia problems definitely have a genetic component and most also have a long history. Each time there is a storm and the dog reacts fearfully it creates the same behavioural expectation for the next occasion. In essence this is not a problem that will go away overnight, if at all. Despite the best of behavioural therapy it is sometimes a case of having to simply manage it as best one can.


7 Stages of Puppy Development – this is another interpretation of puppy behavioural development
by Charlie Lafave

Are you ready to be shocked?
Puppies go through 7 distinct developmental stages in their first 7 months of life. And you need to know these stages to better understand your puppy's behaviour as he grows from stage to stage. Here’s what you need to know:

Seven Stages of Puppy Development
In order to understand why your puppy doesn’t listen to you sometimes, you need to understand all the stages of development puppies go through as they mature. They’re kind of like kids – you wouldn’t expect the same behaviour out of a two-year-old that you would out of a teenager, would you? Of course not! So why do you expect your eight-week-old puppy to react the same way your 3-year-old dog does?

Let’s take a look at the different stages, but before we do, keep in mind that these stages are generalizations – each dog is an individual. I’ve seen six-month-old dogs act more mature than eighteen-month-olds. Socialization and training time you’ve spent with your dog can make an enormous difference in accelerating, or slowing down, your dog’s individual development.

Stage 1: The Transitional Stage (2-3 Weeks)
The Transitional stage generally lasts from age two to three weeks, and it’s during this time that your puppy’s eyes will open, and he’ll slowly start to respond to light and movement and sounds around him. He’ll become a little more mobile during this period, trying to get his feet underneath him and crawling around in the box (or wherever home is.) He’ll start to recognize mom and his littermates, and any objects you might place in the box.

Stage 2: The Almost Ready To Meet The World Stage (3-4 Weeks)
The Almost ready to meet the world stage lasts from 3 to about 4 weeks, and your puppy undergoes rapid sensory development during this time. Fully alert to his environment, he’ll begin to recognize you and other family members. It’s best that breeders avoid loud noises or sudden changes during this period – negative events can have a serious impact on his personality and development right now. Puppies learn how to be a dog during this time, so it’s essential that they stay with mom and littermates.

Stage 3: The Overlap Stage (4-7 Weeks)
The Overlap stage lasts about 3-4 weeks to about 7 weeks. It’s called the overlap period because it overlaps with the Almost Ready period. From 3-4 weeks your puppy begins the most critical social development period of his life – he learns social interaction with his littermates, learns how to play and learns bite inhibition.

He’ll also learn discipline at this point – Mom will begin weaning the pups around this time, and will start teaching them basic manners, including accepting her as the leader of the pack. You can begin to introduce food to the pups starting around the 4th week – transition gradually as Mom weans them. Continue handling the pups daily, but don’t separate them from either Mom or litter mates for more than about 10 minutes per day.
Puppies that are removed from the nest too early frequently are nervous, more prone to barking and biting and have a more difficult time with socialization and training. Puppies need to be left with Mom and siblings until at least 7 weeks of age - and preferably a little longer - for optimum social development.

In terms of socialization, this is the prime time for your puppy to learn basic social skills. Experts say that the best time in a puppy’s life to learn social skills is between 3 and 16 weeks of age – that’s the window of opportunity you have to make sure your puppy grows up to be a well-adjusted dog. It’s extremely important to leave your puppy with Mom and his littermates during this period. Don’t discipline for play fighting, house training / toilet training mistakes or mouthing – that’s all normal behaviour for a puppy at this stage.

Stage 4: The “I’m Afraid of Everything” Stage (8 Weeks to 3 Months)
The “I’m Afraid of Everything” Stage lasts from about 8 weeks to 3 months, and is characterized by rapid learning as well as a “fearful period” that usually pops up at around 8 to 10 weeks. Not all dogs experience this stage, but most do, and they’ll appear terrified over things that they took in stride before. This is not a good time to engage in harsh discipline (not that you ever should anyway!), loud voices or traumatic events.

At this time your puppy’s bladder and bowels are starting to come under much better control, and he’s capable of sleeping through the night. (At last, you can get some rest!) You can begin teaching simple commands like: come, sit, stay, down, etc. Leash training can begin. It’s important not to isolate your puppy from human contact at this time, as he’ll continue to learn behaviours and manners that will affect him in later years.

Stage 5: The Juvenile Stage (3 Months to 4 Months)
The Juvenile stage typically lasts from 3 to 4 months of age, and it’s during this time your puppy is most like a toddler.
He’ll be a little more independent - he might start ignoring the commands he’s only recently learned – just like a child
does when they’re trying to exert their new-found independence. As in “I don’t have to listen to you!” Firm and gentle reinforcement of commands and training is what’s required here.

Stage 6: The Brat Stage (4-6 Months)
The Brat Stage starts at about 4 months and runs until about 6 months, and it’s during this time your puppy will demonstrate even more independence and wilfulness. You may see a decline in his urge to please you – expect to see more “testing the limits” type of behaviours. He’ll be going through a teething cycle during this time, and will also be looking for things to chew on to relieve the pain and pressure. Frozen doggie bones can help sooth him during this period.

He may try to assert his new “dominance” over other family members, especially children. Continue his training in
obedience and basic commands, but make sure to never let him off his leash during this time unless you’re in a confined area. Many times pups at this age will ignore commands to return or come to their owners, which can be a dangerous, even fatal, breakdown in your dog’s response to you.

If you turn him loose in a public place, and he bolts, the chances of injury or even death can result – so don’t take the chance. He’ll now begin to go through the hormonal changes brought about by his growing sexual maturity, and you may see signs of rebelliousness. (Think adolescent teen-age boy!) If you haven’t already, you should have him neutered during this time. (Or spayed if you have a female.)

Stage 7: The Young Adult Stage (6-18 Months)
The Young Adulthood stage lasts from 6 months to about 18 months, and is usually a great time in your dog’s life - he’s
young, he’s exuberant, he’s full of beans – and yet he’s learning all the things he needs to become a full-fledged adult dog. Be realistic in your expectations of your dog at this time – just because he’s approaching his full growth and may look like an adult, he’s not as seasoned and experienced as you might expect. Gradually increase the scope of activities for your dog, as well as the training. You can start more advanced training during this period, such as herding or agility training, (only when his bones are fully formed – approx 18 months) if that’s something both of you are interested in. Otherwise, extend his activities to include more people and other animals – allow him to interact with non-threatening or non-aggressive dogs.

Fun Dog Fact:
There is an ongoing controversy as to when dogs were first domesticated. It has generally been accepted that they joined up with humans some 12,000 to 14,000 years ago, but recent research suggests it may have been as far back as 100,00 years! One school of thought is that dogs helped humans be more efficient hunters, and were rewarded with scraps from the hunt.

Other researchers insist that as certain dogs started scavenging around the rims of human encampments, they eventually became more bold and less fearful of humans. Those that foraged around the human camps were the ancestors of the domestic dog, and their cousins became wolves, jackals and foxes.

Whenever they made the move from the forest to the fire, dogs certainly made a good choice! Think about it . . . to an alien observer it might just look like we humans work all day long to feed and put a roof over our lovable dogs!


QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS:

QUESTION: Approximately how many health and physical problems have been associated with aggressive behaviour problems in dogs? A. 5 B. 9 C. 15 D. More than 15

ANSWER: D. Amazing, but it's more than 15.

QUESTION: You have adopted an adult dog ( 18 months old) from a rescue organisation. Where should you have the dog sleep at night? A. In a crate. B. In the service porch. C. In your bedroom. D. In a dog house in the back yard.

ANSWER: Keeping in mind that these dogs, like foster children, can be feeling insecure
about their new membership in your group, it's best to have them sleep in circumstance that are reminiscent of the time in their lives when they felt totally secure; i.e., sleeping with their dam and litter mates. Therefore, place their bed in a bedroom where a person of people are sleeping. Sleep in nearly "infectious" to dogs, who will usually fall asleep, and remain asleep, all through the night.

QUESTION: According to most wolf- and coyote-authorities, when these wild canids kill a moose, deer or other large prey, what do they do with the animal's intestines? A. They eat the intestines first. B. They pull them out and hide them to eat later. C. They pull them out and don't eat them.

ANSWER: C Contrary to what most people say, wolf and coyote-researchers report that the intestines are not eaten at all. The myth got started about canines eating the intestines, which are filled with partially digested vegetation, because they do open the bellies of their prey, but that's to get to the liver, heart, kidneys, spleen and lungs, which are rich in vital nutrients. Further, domestic pet dogs, like their feral cousins, have absolutely no need for vegetables and the
starches and sugars they contain. Starches are converted into sugar in the dog's intestines. Sugar is another nutritional substance they don't need and can actually be harmful to their health, creating Type II diabetes mellitus.


After some of the issues we have covered in this issue – thought it might be useful to add some of the Animal Protection Act – of course there is not room for all the amendments etc (that would need a novel!) however I have included some of the main points. I would also like to note that I have often got into “hot water” (from certain welfare agencies) by publicising sections of this act. In my own (humble) opinion it should be publicised – knowledge is power!

ANIMALS PROTECTION ACT NO. 71 OF 1962 (ASSENTED TO 16 JUNE, 1962)
(DATE OF COMMENCEMENT : 01 DECEMBER 1962)

1. DEFINITIONS
In this Act, unless the content otherwise indicates: "animals" means any equine, bovine, sheep, goat, pig, fowl, ostrich, dog, cat, or other domestic animal or bird, or any wild animal, wild animal, wild bird or reptile which is in captivity or under control of any person. "Minister" means the Minister of Justice. "owner" in relation to an animal, includes any person having the possession, charge, custody or control of that animal.” police officer "Includes a member of any force established under any law for the carrying out of police powers, duties or functions. "veterinarian" means a person registered as such under the Veterinary and Para-Veterinary Professions Act, 1982. (Act No. 19 of 1982)

2. OFFENCES IN RESPECT OF ANIMALS –

(1) Any person who:
(a )overloads, overdrives, overrides, ill-treats, neglects, infuriates, tortures or maims or cruelly beats, kicks,
goads or terrifies any animal; or

(b) confines, chains, tethers or secures any animal unnecessarily or under such conditions or in such a manner or position as to cause that animal unnecessary suffering or in any place which affords inadequate space, ventilation, light protection or shelter from heat, cold or weather; or

(c) unnecessarily starves or under-feeds or denies water or food to any animal; or

(d) lays or exposes any poisoned fluid or edible matter or infectious agents except for the destruction of vermin or
marauding domestic animals or without taking reasonable precautions to prevent injury or disease being caused to animals; or

(e) being the owner of any animal, deliberately or negligently keeps such animal in a dirty or parasitic condition or allows it to become infected with external parasites or fails to render or procure veterinary or other medical treatment or attention which he is able to render or procure for any such animal in need of such treatment or attention, whether through disease, injury, delivery of young or any other cause, or fails to destroy or cause to be destroyed any such animal which is so seriously injured or diseased or in such a physical condition that to prolong its life would be cruel and would cause such animal unnecessary suffering; or

(f) uses on or attaches to any animal any equipment, appliance or vehicle which causes or will cause injury to such animal or which is loaded, used or attached in such a manner as will cause such animal to be injured or become diseased or to suffer unnecessarily; or

(g) save for the purpose of training hounds maintained by a duly established and registered vermin club in the destruction of vermin, liberates any animal in such a manner or place as to expose it to immediate attack or danger of attack by other animals or by wild animals, or baits or provokes any animal or incites any animal to attack another animal; or

(h) liberates any bird in such a manner as to expose it to immediate attack or danger of attack by animals, wild animals or wild birds; or

(i) drives or uses any animal which is so diseased or so injured
or in such a physical condition that it is unfit to be driven or to do any work; or
(j) lays any trap or other device for the purpose of capturing or destroying any animal, wild animal or wild bird the destruction of which is not proved to be necessary for the protection of property or for the prevention of the spread of disease; or

(k) having laid any such trap or other device fails either himself or through some competent person to inspect and clear such trap or device at least once each day; or

(l) except under the authority of a permit issued by the magistrate of the district concerned, sells any trap or other
device intended for the capture of any animal, including any wild animal (not being a rodent) or wild bird, to any person who is not a bona fide farmer; or

(m) conveys, carries, confines, secures, restrains or tether any animal
(i) under such conditions or in such a manner or position or for such a period of time or over such a distance as to cause that animal unnecessary suffering; or
(ii) in conditions affording inadequate shelter, light or ventilation or in which such animal is excessively exposed to heat, cold, weather, sun, rain, dust exhaust gases or noxious fumes; or
(iii) without making adequate provision for suitable food, potable water and rest for such animal in
circumstances where it is necessary; or
(n) without reasonable cause administers to any animal any poisonous or injurious drug or substance; or

(o) (Para. (o) deleted by s.2 of Act No. 42 of 1992,)

(p) being the owner of any animal, deliberately or without reasonable cause or excuse, abandons it, whether permanently or not in circumstances likely to cause that animal unnecessary suffering; or

(q) causes, procures or assists in the commission or omission of any of the aforesaid acts or, being the owner of any animal, permits the commission or omission of any such act; or

(r) by wantonly or unreasonably or negligently doing or omitting to do any act or causing or procuring the commission or omission of any act, causes any unnecessary suffering to any animal; or

(s) kills any animal in contravention of a prohibition in terms of a notice published in the Gazette under subsection (3) of this section shall, subject to the provisions of this Act and any other law, be guilty of an offence and liable on conviction.

2A. Animal fights - (1) Any person who -
(a) possesses, keeps, imports, buys, sells, trains, breeds or has under his control an animal for the purpose of fighting any other animal;

(b) baits or provokes or incites any animal to attack another animal or to proceed with the fighting of another animal;

(c) for financial gain or as a form of amusement promotes animal fights;
(d) allows any of the acts referred to in paragraphs (a) to (c) to take place on any premises or place in his possession or under his charge or control;

(e) owns, uses or controls any place or premises or place for the purpose or partly for the purpose of presenting animal fights on any such premises or place or who acts or assists in the management of any such premises or place, or who receives any consideration for the admission of any person to any such premises or place; or

(f) is present as a spectator at any premises or place where any of the acts referred to in paragraphs (a) to (c) is taking place or where preparations are being made for such acts. shall be guilty of an offence and liable on conviction to a fine or imprisonment for a period not exceeding two years.

(2) In any prosecution in terms of subsection (1) it shall be presumed, unless the contrary is proved, that an animal which is found at any premises or place is the property or under the control of the owner of that premises or place, or is the property or under the control of the person who uses or is in control of the premises or place.



Editor’s Note:
In our last issue we discussed the potential danger of corrective training using choke chains and pinch collar – I am of course passionate in my crusade against the use of any method of gadget which uses pain as a mean of learning.

Anyway I got to thinking – that if you read the act above (I have highlighted the section on “devices” that in my layman opinion could cover choke chains, pinch collars and electric collars) We need an opinion from a legal member of the Paws community or comment from an legit animal inspector. In which case – whoever you are out there – please give us an opinion.

We need to know
1. Could the sale of choke chains, pinch collars and electric shock collars be banned under this act?
2. Could the use of one of the above devices be deemed illegal?
3. How could this clause be interpreted and implemented?

There is clear scientific evidence to prove that the use of a check chain can cause orthopaedic, trachea and tendon/ligament injuries. It is common sense, that even if the person does not yank the leash, and the dog lunges out or flies to the end of the leash, that the whiplash effect must cause physical injury. Every person I ask – just kind of shrugs and says they never thought of it! So please, there must be someone out there who can give us some legal opinion.



Well that’s about it for now guys. I will keep you all posted of our upcoming events and other exciting news and provide feedback of other events.

Please give me a shout with any views, news and other items, subject matter or articles that you would like to see included or discussed in our newsletter.

Chow for Now

Louise
Consulting Rooms (011) 969-4467 Mobile 082-890-0905 E-mail louthomp@mweb.co.za