Paws News March 2008

Paws Abilities Behaviour & Learning Centre
Newsletter Number 16 MARCH 2008

A warm welcome to all Paws Abilities students, clients, friends and family. Well the weather has turned again, as it only can in Gauteng. Grotty rain for days on end, soggy dogs, soggy carpets, soggy stables, muddy horses, in fact - mud everywhere!

To top it all, my dogs are due to be Frontlined. Of course they are not to bath or get wet for three days before, and three days after being Frontlined – Now this puts one in a bit of a quandary
1. Tossing up the risk of leaving it too late and the possible health risks and ….
2. wasting the damn stuff when I know the dogs will obviously play in the rain (well mine love to anyway).
Of course - caution won in the end and I applied it anyway. After all - it is only money you know!


One of the things we often forget to do is to play with our dogs often enough. Many people are so focused on training, that they loose sight on the importance of having quality, fun time with their dogs.

GAMES TO PLAY WITH YOUR DOG
(By En El Blanco with additional “posts” from the original thread on the web).

PART I: HOW TO KEEP YOUR DOG MENTALLY STIMULATED. Remember: Bored dogs cause problems. If you don't keep your dog's mind stimulated, chances are that he'll find activities to stimulate his mind, himself. And you won't like those activities). A dog that is mentally stimulated on a daily basis is a happy dog. And happy dogs don't cause dog problems. Here's a quick list of how to keep your dog mentally stimulated:

1. Exercise. Lots of exercise. If you can incorporate exercise with another activity such as playing, "Find the ball," or doing some agility exercises, then that's even better.


2. Brain teaser toys. There are a number of cool toys that actually challenge your dog's mind. For example, one of the more popular ones is the "Buster Cube," a plastic cube that releases a pellet of food, every third or fourth time the Cube is rolled over.

3. Small rituals done at the same time of day, every day. For example; feeding time, grooming, walks, "cookie" time,
car trips around town, etc&


4. Dogs like to work. Teach your dog to bring in the newspaper, carry mail back from the mailbox or to walk out with you when you take the trash out. (Whenever I go through the drive-thru window at McDonald's, Forbes--my dog--gets to carry the trash bag to the trash receptacle when we're finished. Sound silly, right? But the dog loves it!)

5. Do obedience training with your dog. Obedience training requires your dog to use his brain and think. Knowing that he will be praised for making the right decision and corrected for making the wrong decision (and allowed the opportunity to make the right decision again) instils a sense of responsibility in your dog and demands that he use his noggin. Remember: Dogs are bred to work. They've been blessed with super-human instincts and drives and they need an outlet for those drives.

PART II: EASY & FUN GAMES TO PLAY WITH YOUR DOG! Every now and then, the "Regulars" at our discussion forum collectively reveal a gem of an idea that begs to be shared with my dog training students. One of our members asked, "It's easy to start up a new game [with your dog] but many of them don't encourage good behaviour.

1) Agility-type exercises are fun for most dogs and the dog follows your instructions while performing. Not sure what type of dog or yard you have, but you can use make some obstacles with stuff you might have on hand: cardboard cartons for jumps, a sheet draped over a couple of split hula hoops for a tunnel, a wide board well supported by cement blocks for a raised walk. Simple jumps can be made with PCV pipes and elbow joints. Just make sure everything you use is stable and safe.

2) Teach the dog to Find a toy that you've hidden. Put the dog in a sit/stay, then hide the article. Return and send the dog away to find it. My simple-minded Lab can be entertained for half and hour or more with this game.

3) Teach the “Go Get” (named article). My friends dog Sailor knows rope, bone and kong. I put all three in the
hallway, and repeatedly send her to bring back the one toy I've chosen. Teaching a dog to go get something is never ending. Its a great exercise we taught our lab (Brandy) we had for 8 years.
She learned to "go get" anything and everything. Once she learned what we were trying to get her to do and what we were trying to get her to "get" (by pointing to different objects) she then started learning the differences between what we were asking her to get without pointing. (Sometimes we would have to point in general directions to tell her what part of the house things were in and she would go get them.)

She knew how to get her own sweater, leash, harness, bones, toys (she knew the difference between ALL her
toys. She even knew the difference between her food bowl and her water bowl which were different colours.) For us
she would get our shoes, our purses...she would even bring us our coats if we asked her to. She fetched all kinds of things even if we told her "upstairs or downstairs" she knew exactly what to do.

When she started learning this exercise and we used it Constantly. (Who wouldn't! It was great on lazy or sick days "bring me the remote" HA! and she loved doing it.) She started to associate words with objects we were pointing to really fast. She never really seemed to forget. She was so smart. I'm working with my lab now little by little on it. The more you work on it the better they will get. My Kuma could be a lot better but I don't work as diligently with her as we did with Brandy. I will probably be stepping it up a notch here soon. I have enough time to. It takes quite a while to get to that level but its SO much fun to see something learn that much and see people's astonished looks when they watched her do it. Its amazing.

The original poster replied, "We've been having great fun with these ideas, thanks. She seems to have difficulty finding things unless she can HEAR me hide them (i.e. she can't find it if the washer is going), or later in time if it's somewhere SHE placed it. She seems to be quite intelligent. How to get over this?" Amy adds, "I rub my hands all over the item - and make a big point of showing it to her and letting her smell it b4 I hide it." Michelle contributes, "Yes, Amy brings up an excellent point. I always start teaching the puppy to search using a smelly food item." "Once the dog learns the motions of looking, he will find what ever you let him get a sniff of.” This might not interest some of you folks, but you can train a rat to pick an item after only one sniff. So I assume a dog's sense is as keen or keener.

The difficulty of the task for the dog is not smelling the item, its enforcing the concept to them that they will be rewarded when they find the item so they remained determined to get the reward- so that's why its good to start with treats if you are training a puppy." "Once the dog matures and understands the exercise, I go to human articles and the reward is a ball or tug once they find the item."

Nicki says, "I did exactly as you did Michele. I started with treats so he learned the game. With articles, I let the dog have a sniff and then at first I let him watch me hide it. After one or two times of watching, he gets the idea and then I focus on that one article until he understands the name attached to it. It is a lot of fun for the dog, and such pride when they find it. Give lots of praise for a job well done."

PART III: MORE GAMES TO PLAY WITH YOUR DOG!
Play The Shell Game With Your Dog
Want to know how to stimulate your dog's mind?
Play games with your dog.
I've written before about different games to play that will help keep your dog from getting bored and help to stimulate his mind. Here's another great game to play:

The Shell Game.
Here's what you'll need:
Three small, identical buckets approximately one gallon size. Or, you can use empty coffee cans if you like.
Kibble or doggie cookies.
A leash and training collar.
One hungry puppy.

Here's what you do.
Place your dog in a down-stay, in the kitchen. Next, walk into your living room and place the three buckets side-by-side, with the mouth on the ground (upside down). Leave about one foot of space between each bucket. Put a doggie-cookie under one of the buckets. Now, return to your dog, give him your "release" command, and walk him over to the buckets. Say, "Where's the cookie?"

Encourage your dog to smell the buckets. When he gets excited about the bucket with the cookie under it, praise him lavishly. Then, kick the bucket over and let him get the cookie. Repeat this process by switching the bucket the cookie
is hidden under. Once your dog starts to get the hang of the game, you can add more complexity by spacing the buckets further apart. You may also add more buckets. I like to teach a dog to give an active indication when he finds the bucket with the cookie& such as scratching the side of the bucket, or barking. You can also teach your dog to "Sit" next to the bucket with the cookie. Initially you'll find that your dog will likely go back to the previous bucket that hid the cookie. Don't lift the bucket up until he finds the one that actually contains the cookie.

Paws Abilities “LOVES” dogs
HOW TO TEACH YOUR DOG TO FIND YOUR KEYS
Once you've done the Shell Game for awhile, do this: Attach a small piece of leather to your key chain. Spend two minutes pinching the leather between your thumb and index finger. This will transfer some of the oil in your skin to the leather and link your "scent" to it. Next, repeat the "Shell Game" with your key chain, instead of the doggie cookie. When your dog finds the bucket that hides your keys, lift the bucket to reveal your keys. At this point, you really need to lay it on thick (the praise, that is) and make a big deal about your dog finding the keys. You may also want to throw your dog a cookie as a reward.

Finally, you can start hiding your key in other places around the room (away from the buckets). Start out easy. Place them on the floor, next to the couch, where your dog can almost stumble upon them quite easily.
After a few days, you should be able to hide your keys in some really difficult places and your dog will be able to find them for you. Imagine how handy this trick will become when you really lose your keys!


PART IV: - HOW TO CURE DOGGIE-BOREDOM! (OR: THE RECIPE FOR THE "ALMOST PERFECT" DOG)
Kong toys are some of the best on the market. Especially if you've got a dog that likes to chew. You can find them at practically any pet store. I found the following article on the Kong Company's web site. I meant to send it out in last week's issue, but their site was down for several days.

RECIPE FOR THE "ALMOST PERFECT" DOG: It is reassuring to know that the ingredients for an "almost perfect" dog are available to any responsible dog owner. You can enjoy the wonderful benefits of an "almost perfect" dog. The ingredients are:

1. One clean bill of health. You can help ensure this vital ingredient with current vaccinations and regular veterinary check ups.
2. One proper I.D. Make sure your dog has a license and/or I.D. (dog tags, tattoo, canine microchip).
3. One well-nourished, well-exercised dog. Feed your dog as recommended by your veterinarian, professional
trainer or breeder. Exercise your dog as often as possible
4. One safe, secure, comfortable environment free from abuse and neglect. If your dog spends much time outdoors, a well-insulated dog house in a fenced area should be provided. Inside, a crate (dog den) is recommended by most trainers. Start crate training early - ask your positive reinforcement trainer or behaviourist!
5. A full measure of time. Time spent with your dog should include training flavoured with reward, correction/positive reinforcement, petting, grooming and exercise such as walking, playing, fetching, and just being with you and your family.

Missing ingredients result in behaviour problems.
Over 60% of dogs in shelters are there as a result of behaviour problems or lack of identification. MOST BEHAVIOUR PROBLEMS ARE CORRECTABLE! Don't despair! Make sure your dog has a clean bill of health, then contact your professional trainer and/or animal behaviourist for help.

Prevention is always the best cure for behaviour problems! Lack of training and physical and mental under stimulation (boredom) are primary causes of misbehaviour. They can be easily prevented by enrolling in basic training classes (contact your veterinarian for a referral) and using Kong Dog Toys for healthy physical and mental stimulation. Kong Dog Toys are widely used and recommended for therapy and prevention of under-stimulation, boredom, separation anxiety and other behaviour problems. Following are some simple ways Kongs can be utilized to promote good behaviour in your dog. It is important for dogs to succeed at their "work". Make it easy to remove the kong stuffing at first. AS THEY BECOME MORE EXPERIENCED, YOU MAY WANT TO MAKE THEIR JOB MORE CHALLENGING - HERE'S HOW:

1. Pack stuffing tighter.
2. Wedge biscuits inside the cavity using the inside rim of the opening to secure them.
3. FREEZE IT! Very Popular! Try various combinations of canned food, gravy, noodles, rice and mashed potatoes
mixed with food nuggets and freeze. KONGSICLES are a favourite with many hot dogs! Put a dab of peanut buttein the small end of the Kong to plug it. Turn it upside down in a cup. Fill it full of water, chicken broth or fruit juice and freeze. Cool doggies! Kongsicles are recommended for outdoor use.
4. CHEESE IT! Mix cheese pieces or cheese spread with food nuggets and microwave until cheese melts. Let it
cool to a safe temperature. NOTE - Use a cup to contain the Kong when freezing or micro waving.

KONG STUFFING RECIPES: As you create recipes, be sensitive to your dog's tummy as you experiment. Following are recipes created by veterinarians, dog trainers and dog lovers worldwide.

BANANA RAMA: 1 fresh banana · 2 tbs wheat germ · 1 tbs plain yogurt (can use your pet's favourite flavour as well) · Kong Toy that best fits your pet's chewing temperament In a bowl, mash up banana. Then, add wheat germ and yogurt. Mash all ingredients together and use spoon to add to Kong. Freeze for 4 hours. Makes 1 serving for Medium Kong. Double for every Kong Size that is bigger.

CHEESY DENTAL KONG DELIGHT: 3 slices of your pet's favourite cheese · Dental Kong Toy A very simple and creative way to make any pet drool in delight. Just place the 3 slices of cheese directly onto the grooves of your pet's Dental Kong (if model has rope - make sure cheese does not get onto it). Melt in microwave for 20 to 30 seconds. Give to pet after it cools.
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PHILLY STEAK: steak scraps · 1 ounce cream cheese · appropriate Kong Toy Place small scraps of the steak inside Kong toy. Spread cream cheese in large hole to hold scraps.

FRUIT SALAD: apple and carrot chunks · 1/4th of a banana · appropriate Kong Toy Place apples and carrots in Kong Toy. Mush the banana in large hole to hold fruit in place. You can include other fruits and veggies: orange slices · peach and/or nectarine chunks · celery sticks · broccoli and/or cauliflower · tomato and black olive mixture.

VEGGIE KONG OMELETTE: 1 egg · your choice of shredded cheese · any vegetables that your pet may like appropriate Kong Toy Scramble egg and fold in vegetables. Put into Kong toy. Sprinkle some cheese over the top and microwave for about 20 seconds. Cool thoroughly before giving to dog.

MAC 'N CHEESE: Leftover macaroni and cheese · small cube of Velveeta · appropriate Kong Toy Melt Velveeta in
microwave until gooey. Add mac 'n cheese to Kong Toy. Pour heated Velveeta into Kong. Make sure it has cooled before giving to your pet.

FAMOUS RECIPES - AUNT JEANNIE'S ARCHAEOLOGY KONG (for advanced dogs)
LAYER ONE (deepest): roasted, unsalted cashews · freeze dried liver bits LAYER TWO: dog kibble, cookies or liver biscotti · Cheerios · sugar-free, salt-free peanut butter · dried banana chips, apples and apricots

LAYER THREE: carrot sticks · turkey or leftover ravioli or tortellini · Kong Toy (the larger the better!) Pack as tightly as possible. The last item inserted should be an apricot or piece of ravioli, presenting a smooth "finish" under the main opening.

LIGHT VERSION: substitute crumbled rice cakes for cashews, Caesar croutons for freeze-dried liver, fat free cream cheese for peanut butter. - by Jean Donaldson

KONG ON A ROPE: Dry dog kibble · appropriate Kong Toy Rope Take the rope, pull it through the Kong Toy and
knot it. Hang this upside down from a tree, deck or post. The small hole should be facing the ground. Take the kibble and fill the Kong Toy. Make the toy hang just low enough that it is out of your dog's reach. The dog will spend hours trying to retrieve the kibble from the Kong Toy. At the end of the day, take the remaining kibble and give to your pet as a reward. This is advanced work for your dog. - by Ian Dunbar

FROZEN JERKY POPS: Peanut butter · bouillon · Jerky Strips · Water · appropriate Kong Toy · muffin tin Smear a small amount of peanut butter over small hole in your Kong Toy. Fill the cool water and add a pinch of bouillon. Place a Jerky Stick inside Kong Toy and freeze. This can also be put (once frozen) in a children's size paddling/ baby swimming pool for a fun day of fishing for your pet. - by Terry Ryan
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SIMPLE, TRIED AND TRUE: Peanut butter · appropriate Kong Toy Smear peanut butter inside the cavity of your
Kong Toy. It's that easy! - by trainers and vets worldwide

TRIXIE'S FAVOURITE: Trixie, a 50 pound Aussie/Springer mix, loves turkey, chicken or marrow bites mixed with slightly moistened food nuggets frozen inside her Kong. She is very clean about un-stuffing - some dogs are not! –
by Joe Markham

Every dog has a favourite recipe - finding your dog's will be fun! REMEMBER: Some foods are not healthy for dogs. Consult with your veterinarian first. You can learn more about the benefit of Kong Toys by visiting their site at: http://www.kongcompany.com


At Paws Abilities we are trying to create an awareness for responsible pet ownership and that starts with purchasing the right dog for you. I urge everyone to find out as much as possible about the breed of dog you wish to buy. Many dogs are killed/euthanased or 'recycled' through welfare organisations each year simply because they were bought on a whim. 4-6 million dogs are euthanased in the USA annually.

Siobhan – one of our valued instructors from Paws Abilities, owns Siberian Huskies and therefore decided to share some info on them. she challenges everyone who owns another breed to do some research and to share that breed's characteristics with all of us.



THE MINUS POINTS OF A SIBERIAN HUSKY
1. The Siberian Husky is NOT A ONE MAN DOG - any human will do - this may be seen as a lack of loyalty.

2. The breed are not territorial and will not guard your home or property.

3. Siberian Husky’s have a very strong desire to run. If he gets free he will run so far he will be lost, if not hit by a car or train, or shot by a farmer.

4. This breed cannot be relied on to return to you on command. He will decide whether or not to return for himself, knowing that you cannot catch him.

5. Most Siberian Husky’s appear to be too independent and strong willed generally to be a candidate for obedience training/work/competition work – BUT – they must work! Other ways to provide them with mental stimulation will need to be found.

6. The breed are keen and efficient hunters and killers. They cannot be trusted with non-canine pets or livestock of any sort. On occasion they have been known to accept into the pack a cat that they were brought up with, but all others will be regarded as fair game.

7. Please note - Huskies have been known to kill cats, that they have lived happily with for many years, for no obvious reason.

8. Like any dog- Siberian Husky’s must be exercised to keep him fit and contented, but this must be always done ON lead.

9. Siberian Husky’s can be very destructive, especially when young and/or if left alone for a long time.

10. The breed needs company, either human or canine, and is miserable without it.

11. Siberian Husky’s need a safely enclosed exercise area. Your garden must be fully fenced and secure. Six foot high fencing is USUALLY enough. Check neighbours will not object to high fences. Take care he cannot dig his way out beneath it, and do not leave dustbins etc near the fence or he may use them to get over the top. Keep the garden gate locked, otherwise there is a risk that visitors, window cleaners etc may leave them open.

12. If you own a Siberian Husky - your garden is unlikely to remain neat and tidy EVER! They generally DO NOT GROW OUT OF GARDEN DESTRUCTION!

13. Siberian Husky’s need correct feeding - breeders will be able to tell you which foods suit the breed and which can cause problems.

14. The breed moults twice a year. The quantity of fur shed can surprise you, especially in spring when the winter coat is replaced by a shorter, thinner summer coat.

15. You need an understanding and experienced veterinary surgeon. Siberian Husky’s are sensitive to some drugs, particularly anaesthetics, sedatives and tranquillisers. This is due to their relatively low metabolic rate and lack of body fat. Also the bulk of their fur can lead vets to overestimate their weight and so overdose them. They should always be weighed accurately beforehand to avoid this.

THE GOOD POINTS OF A SIBERIAN HUSKY
1. Siberian Husky’s are usually friendly with people of all ages.

2. An honest dog- his body language and voice can be taken at face value - he says what he means. What you see is what you get!

3. Siberian Husky’s have little or no guarding instinct and they will greet and kiss an intruder the same as any other visitor.

4. They are particularly gregarious – and crave company.

5. Siberian Husky’s are youthful in outlook, and often reaches 14 years of age, sometimes 16 or more.

6. The breed have a robust athletic constitution.

7. Siberian Husky’s are good travellers, new sights and sounds do not upset them.

8. The breed are intelligent and very mischievous.

9. They are particularly easygoing and very forgiving.

10. A very clean breed. Siberian Husky’s have little or no doggy smell. Some people allergic to dogs can tolerate Siberian Husky fur.

11. The breed is very straightforward to groom.

12. Siberian Husky’s are quiet. They do not often bark, but they do howl like a wolf -often just for the joy of it. This may be a disadvantage in some neighbourhoods.

13. Siberian Husky’s do not require as much food for their size as many other breeds.

14. Siberian Husky’s are not fussy eaters (but see minus point 12)

15. Siberian Husky’s generally get on well with other well adjusted canines. However they will take up a challenge if offered. The above assumes a normal puppyhood and socialisation.


LETTERS TO THE EDITOR
Dear Sir/Madam

I am nauseated by the ignorant, mindless idiots I have seen on numerous occasions at the East Rand Flea Market (situated on North Rand Road, Boksburg), who prance around with Marmoset monkeys on little leashes, or clinging for dear life to some spoilt brat’s (kids) head.

What are they thinking? Or is that a foreign concept for such bundling buffoon.

Are these people so desperate to attract attention to themselves that they must take these poor, fragile, little creatures with them? Have they not considered the stress and trauma that these delicate creatures must experience, as their keepers aimlessly wander around displaying their trophy, (amongst hordes of people and terrifying noise)? Not to mention how susceptible Marmoset monkeys are to picking up (human) viruses that can easily KILL them. Many human viruses are easily transmitted from human being to monkey!!! Often a simple human head cold can become a slow, lingering DEATH SENTENCE!

Marmoset owners should ask themselves this question ……
Would you no prefer to see a wild animal, happy in its natural environment, or do you prefer to look at them behind bars?

If your answer is behind bars - SHAME on you!
That is exactly were YOU belong, on display with a large sign on the bars that says -


SPECIES
“ HUMAN MORON”

(MANY PEOPLE WISH THAT
THEY WERE EXTINCT)!

Wild animals do not belong in a cage, and a monkey, regardless of the species, is a WILD ANIMAL. What on earth are they even doing being kept in the suburbs – (as silly status symbols to satisfy some stupid, ignorant, owners neurosis), let alone subjecting them to this thoughtless, cruel, treatment.

Have these people considered what these primates (that is monkeys to you ignoramuses) go through, or is it of no consequence to them? These people are fuelling a horrific trade simply by purchasing and keeping a Marmoset, then they still rub salt into the wound, by prancing around like peacocks with these pathetic, fragile little creatures who have no escape or sanctuary!

Wake up people and think about what you are doing, and if you are so insecure, and have so many personal issues and neurosis that you really must own one, at least be fair to it and provide the most natural environment for them to live in, and leave them at HOME!

Outraged Benoni



Dear Sir/Madam
Firstly, thanks for providing a platform on which we are able to vent our anger and frustrations. Good on you!

I don’t know which Advertising Company produced the “Hi Q” tyre advertisement currently appearing on television, but the fact that “Hi Q” has willingly approved of and encouraged the exploitation of the poor adolescent Chimpanzee is nothing short of a disgrace! It is not sweet, funny, nor entertaining to see such an intelligent wild animal dressed up, having to act the fool in order to aid this company make another quick buck. Examples of sweet, funny, entertaining advertisements using animals to market their products are the Labrador puppies used in various toilet paper advertisements. Besides, dogs are domesticated animals (having been domesticated / bred and genetically engineered by man for thousands of years), and these pups are not being disgraced, as the advertisements show them doing what puppy’s do – playing!

The abominable trade in large primates is a travesty fuelled by money! Because that is what it’s all about Money! Entire Chimpanzee families are butchered by savage poachers, hacked to death so that the babies can be ripped away from their still warm mother’s corpses. Is this not murder? The babies are abused, beaten, traumatised, starved, teased and ridiculed before being exported all over the world for… MONEY!

Only one in six infants may survive the journey in horrendous conditions.
For what? TO MAKE UNSCRUPULOUS COMPANIES MORE … MONEY.
Utilised as a resource!!! Used as circus acts, props on the beaches in advertising, on television programs, in laboratories (where they are tortured in the name of medical science or beauty research) or humiliated when kept as pets, as a child substitute for some rich, bored, neurotic socialite!

I present this question - What happens to these cute/adorable, Chimpanzee babies when they start to grow, become adolescents, and display their natural primate behaviours (usually dominant aggression)! On adolescence, they soon become physically uncontrollable! An adult male Chimpanzee is stronger than five strong men. More often than not, these highly social species (who naturally/in the wild, live in large extended family groups) end up in tiny cages, chained by their necks, or locked up in dark dingy little rooms, to see out their final days in isolation, being tortured, in misery and despair.

The lucky few end up in rehabilitation centres, or sanctuaries like “Monkey World”, in the UK, Which in their own words “should not have to exist at all”. If you have the stomach, visit their web site and read the heart wrenching stories of some of the luckier primates that have been rescued, or witness some of the behaviour problems the sanctuaries have to constantly deal with, on DSTV’s, Animal Planet.

This is not the only tyre service centre in the market place, so PLEASE stand up for creatures who can not speak for themselves. DO NOT support HI Q TYRES! There are hundreds of stunning advertisements successfully promoting the products of ethical companies without having to resort to exploiting wild animals.

I hope this business goes down the plug and DIES – just like the countless innocent animals that sacrificed their lives to make companies like “Hi Q” …more MONEY!!!

Mr Steyn Gauteng


DECIDING ON WHICH BREED IS RIGHT FOR YOUR FAMILY
Taken from “Discover Your Puppy’s Paws Abilities” by Louise Thompson
(Accredited Animal Behaviour Consultant)

Breed research, research and more research
It is imperative that you take into account that each individual breed has been specifically designed by humans (using selective genetics and breeding over hundreds of years) in order to perform a particular purpose or job.

For example, the Border Collie (part of the “Herding Group”) was originally designed to herd/control sheep. The American Pit Bull Terrier was designed as a killing machine for the barbaric sport of dog fighting. Boxers were bred to bait bulls (hence the flat face) and Jack Russell Terriers were bred to go to “earth” to aid in vermin control.

Often the best family pets are to be found in the “Gundog Group”. With the correct genetics and the right upbringing, breeds such as the Labrador and the Golden Retriever can make wonderful family pets and obedient companions. This group of dogs also includes wonderful breeds such as the Pointer, the Springer Spaniel, the Irish Setter, the Weimararner and many more.

The only dog within the “Gundog Group” who is reputed to be a bit short-tempered, is the Cocker Spaniel, as they have a rather “short fuse” and are considered “sharp” by those in the dog world. They do, however, adapt well and thrive with more mature families.

The suitability of breeds in the “Gundog Group” is partly due to the fact that many of the breeds in this group were bred to have an exceptionally close bond with people, sometimes more so than with their own kind! Therefore, the adjustment into a human “pack” is very easy for them.

Find out what the breed’s original purpose was, and how this will relate or fit into your lifestyle.
For example, if you were an avid roadrunner, an ideal training companion for you would be the Dalmatian. The Dalmatian’s original purpose was to be a carriage dog, (unique among all breeds), to clear a path in populated areas for horse-drawn carriages.

For centuries, Dalmatians used to accompany stagecoaches on trips from London to Dover. The horses were changed every 20 miles or so, but the same dog did the entire trip from London to Dover and then still the return trip! In recent times, the Dalmatian was bred as a companion dog. However, in years past, it was a superb working dog.

WHEN CHOOSING A BREED, TRY NOT TO BE INFLUENCED BY FASHION!
Dog fashions come and go, rather choose a breed that will suit you, your environment, family’s needs, and lifestyle!

Before buying a pup
To help you decide which breed of dog is the “right” choice for you, visit as many of the local dog shows in your area as you can. Watch, learn, look (ask as many questions as you can from both breeders and dog handlers) and listen.

Dog people are usually thrilled to talk about their own particular breed and you can gain valuable information from them. You can also make a point of visiting your local dog obedience training school to give you an idea of which breeds seem to take your fancy, and see for yourself how easy or difficult the different breeds are to work with and train.

If you are looking for a dog that is good with kids, see which owners also have (well-behaved) kids interacting with the dogs. This will provide another clue to help you decide which is the breed for you.

Find an obedience school, which uses only “Positive Reinforcement” or reward-based training methods. Today there is no place for abusive training methods with dogs being yanked about on choke chains, pinch collars and other kinds of torture equipment. The dog training school should be a place where owners and dogs alike have fun and learn in a positive, calm and gentle environment.

There are also numerous “breed” books with loads of information about each specific breed and its original purpose. Many of these books include basic breed characteristics.
As previously mentioned, you must take into account practicalities like the size of your garden. For example, it would be lunacy to get a high-energy dog like a Border Collie or a Jack Russell Terrier if you live in a tiny-gardened townhouse. That is unless you are at home all day, and are prepared to take the dog out three times a day for a five-kilometre active walk.

You have to consider that high-energy breeds such as the Border Collie were bred expressively as working animals, designed to be able to run for long distances over rough terrain using exceptional concentration and intelligence when herding sheep for many hours at a time! They will not be satisfied with being left in a suburban garden with a handful of toys. They are highly intelligent, extremely agile, very demanding, and can be a quite a handful.

Having a big garden is not enough for high-energy breeds like the Border Collie
Border Collies need loads of mental stimulation, constant challenges, and mental gymnastics, in order to keep them out of trouble. As a breed, they are extremely time-consuming to keep. When Border Collies do not receive enough mental and physical stimulation, they often present with destructive behaviour, digging, chewing, pulling washing off the line, etc. This destructive behaviour is sometimes the only outlet they have to alleviate their frustration. High-energy, excitable breeds are best suited to larger properties, with a family that is in a position to entertain them and keep them occupied.

For example, breeds like the Jack Russell Terrier are notorious for being exceptionally energetic – bordering on hyperactive. They need tons of mental and physical stimulation. With regard to the Jack Russell Terrier - they can also be avid gardeners and are often tenacious hunters!

Fighting breeds such as Pit Bull Terriers, Staffordshire Terriers, Bullterriers, etc, are often totally incompatible with all kinds of other animals. I am not just talking about “dog–on-dog” incompatibilities. These “fighting” breeds have exceptionally strong “prey drives” (hunting instincts) and it is unusual to find a terrier that is compatible with any small “prey” - type animals. Taking a chance with a pet rabbit or cat - could be disastrous! Some individuals in the “fighting breeds” group have ended up becoming so “dog-on-dog” anti-social, that they are doomed to spend the rest of their lives as “only” dogs!

Some individuals have reached such a level of aggression (through genetic selection) that they cannot even be kept with another dog of the opposite sex! This does not appear to be a problem as long as the human “pack” fulfils the animal’s pack needs.
While many of these “Fighting breeds” are wonderful with people and children, it must never be forgotten that this love for people does not extend to other animals especially other dogs and small mammals. Terriers with their strong “prey” drive love to dig out moles and field mice, which can cause havoc for a proud gardener. These breeds go way beyond normal puppy exploratory digging. So, if you pride aesthetic perfection in the garden, then you should think very carefully before purchasing a dog in the Terrier group.

Certain “Gun Dog” breeds, such as the Labrador and the Golden Retriever, are also notorious water lovers!
This makes sense when one considers that their original purpose was to retrieve birds out of lakes and rivers! Therefore, if you have a swimming pool and do not like soggy carpets or do not want to be continually cleaning the pool filter (which will become clogged up with dog hair), think very carefully before you choose a water dog!

WHAT IF YOU ALREADY HAVE A DOG?
If you already own a bitch, then taking on a bitch puppy is asking for trouble. It has been found that if there is an incompatibility resulting in aggression between pet dogs; bitches often fight far more intensely than male dogs. If you have an existing dog, only consider buying a dog of the opposite sex, or at some stage, the fur will fly!

Should you already have an existing dog in the family, the “compatibility” of the two genetic/breeds also needs to be considered. If you are in any doubt regarding breed compatibility contact an accredited animal behaviour consultant for advice (details at the end of this book).

Introducing a male puppy to an older male dog can also end in disaster. If the older male dog accepts the male puppy when it is little, things usually are fine for the first six to nine months. As soon as the male puppy’s hormones start to develop, then the problems begin. Most (male dog) inter-dog aggression appears to begin when the puppy is about six to eight months of age and usually is at its worst when the puppy’s male hormone – “testosterone” - peaks at about twenty to thirty months of age.

If you decide to take on a male puppy to go with your existing male dog, the puppy should be neutered at an early age to prevent status related inter-dog aggression. Do not neuter the existing older dog or they will retain their equality (equal status). In a pack, there are no equals - only leaders and followers.

Neutering both dogs can actually increase the aggression as it equalises the “rank or status” of the two males. Just because both animals are of the same species or breed (even if they are related or siblings!) there is no reason that they should specifically like each other on sight.
Dogs have tastes, likes and dislikes – just like us. No two dogs are the same! Certain breeds of the same sex do get on better with each other than other specific breeds. Breeds from the “Herding, Gundog, and Hound” groups seem to cope better with living together in larger groups than most other breeds.
Keeping fighting breeds with terriers would also be courting disaster.

Often two terriers are unable to live together in peace and harmony due to their natural/genetic “bossiness” or high status. There are certain other breeds that, when put together, can also spell disaster. Breeds with a high natural level of canine “Status or Rank”, such as the Rottweiler, Bullmastiff, and the SA Boerboel often have compatibility problems. This natural high level of “status” is not restricted to the large breeds by any means! Small Terriers, including the Yorkshire Terrier, Jack Russell Terrier, and the SA Maltese “Poodle” (which is actually a Terrier) are extremely bossy by nature and can cause havoc when mismatched in a family.

Today’s lifestyle also demands that we look at our choice of pet in a different light. Many people (for various reasons including security) now live in complexes. Complex management often demand that residents only keep a small breed of dog. Often these small breeds are prone to yapping and noise pollution - not suitable for life in complexes - especially if they are left alone for the entire day whilst owners are at work. Should you find it impossible to make a good breed choice, contact an accredited animal behaviour consultant who will be able to assist, guide, and advise you. Are you still sure that you want to buy a puppy?


KENNEL CARE VS HOME-ALONE CARE
By Louise Thompson Animal Behaviour Consultant (ABC of SA ©®™)

HOME-ALONE CARE
It is generally not a good idea to have a friend or neighbour pop in daily to care for your dog when you are away.

For one thing, most people are not experienced enough to be able to spot illness timorously. For example, Billary fever, a disease presenting with symptoms of anaemia, lethargy and listlessness. In the latter stages, the dog exhibits a lack of appetite.

Lack of appetite is often confused with the dog pining for his owners! Billary if left untreated can be fatal! If you decide on home care, a better option would be to get a responsible, full time house sitter, (someone who possesses animal-experience and knowledge).

I must add, that dogs suffering from noise phobias, who are thunder phobic, or suffer from sound sensitivity should never be left home alone! These dogs are more likely to present a danger to themselves and others. They are the dogs that often escape in panic when their owners are away, get run over on the roads during a storm, and end up as strays in animal shelters.

THINGS TO THINK ABOUT
Ø The dog should have adequate shelter from the elements. Ideally, if it is an inside dog, a doggie door with access to a secure room with a safe place/bed should be provided. It may be necessary to block off an open- plan kitchen, or make some other suitable arrangement.
Ø Do not change the dogs’ usual access to the house. Do not suddenly dump a house-dog in the garage – he will stress! Stress = noise pollution. One of the most common problems with dogs left “home – alone” whilst their owners are on holiday is noise pollution. Noise pollution = neighbour complaints!
Ø Clean water must be available at all times in a spill-proof dish. If all else fails, a washing up bowl wedged into a motor care tyre works well.
Ø The dog should be protected from external parasites with a long acting tick and flea preparation (available from your veterinarian). He should also be protected against biting flies (in the summer months). All these products are available from your veterinarian.
Ø The property and environment where the dog is to be confined should be completely escape proof.
Ø Do not leave the dog/s wearing a check chain, or a slip collar. If it gets stuck on a branch or fence, your dog could strangle himself! Leave him wearing flat collar, in which you can fit at least three fingers in to ensure it is not too tight.
Ø Anything dangerous in the environment must be removed, or made “safe”. Any poisonous substances need to be locked away. Contents of the garage need to be made safe. Spikes on any gates will need to be taped. Care needs to be taken if you own elderly dogs. They sometimes get disorientated and if you have a swimming pool, could fall in and drown...
Ø You will need to provide the dogs with an abundance of chew items. Leave an abundance of non-synthetic objects for him to vent on. Items such as cow hooves, pigs ears, etc. If you own several dogs, you should also consider any potential aggression that could occur in your absence. Stress can make aggression worse. If you are in any doubt, then rather kennel the dogs.
Ø Matters of hygiene need to be considered. Your house sitter must be prepared to “scoop the poop” at least once a day. This is to prevent an increase in flies for the duration of your absence
Ø Make sure that all your dogs have nametags on their collars. The nametags should clearly state the sitter’s contacts (as you will be away). Just in case of an accident and he manages to escape – he can be returned and not risk being at a welfare for a week and then being re-homed
Ø Lastly provide your sitter with all your relevant veterinarians’ numbers including an emergency hour’s numbers.

KENNEL CARE
Before choosing a boarding kennel, you should get plenty of referrals.
A good place to start is your local veterinarian. Groomer’s, friends (with good experiences), dog trainers etc. View the kennels well in advance, preferably NOT in the “off season”, as, when they are busy it will provide you with a better idea of how they cope under pressure. A visit prior to kennelling will also provide you with insight of their routines and the general care that they provide.

If a referral is not possible. You should look for kennel that is a registered member of the Pet Boarders Association. The organisation has a Code of Ethics, which provides the public with a certain amount of protection.

PREPARING YOUR PUP FOR A KENNEL STAY
Book well in advance. Good kennels are often booked up long before the holiday season.

In an ideal scenario, you should prepare you dog or pup well in advance. Start to visit the kennel for short social visits. Do this regularly up to a month or two before leaving your dog there. Take his favourite toys. Play games with him. Play ball, pop treats, etc. Anything that you can do which will provide the dog/pup with a positive association to the environment. This will ensure that when he is actually left at the kennels, it will not be such a culture shock.

The next step would be to book him in for a morning stay. Once this is successful, the next step would be to book him in for a one-day stay. Thereafter, you could then book him in for a trial weekend. Ensure that you obtain feedback from the owners and staff as to how he coped.

Before booking in, protect your dog from any possible parasites by using a long acting tick & flea preparation. You should also provide the staff with a preparation to repel biting flies. Both products are available from your veterinarian.

Inform staff of any special diet that your dog requires. Realise that this could affect the price of his stay.

Depending on his length of stay, your dog might need additional exercise. Make sure this service is provided by the establishment. If you are only going away for a couple of days, it is not an issue. In addition (for short-term stays), if the dog is stressed, he will probably feel more secure if he is confined to a smaller area.
Only be concerned about adequate exercise if you are away for a longer period. However, it is important that you confirm this with the staff. Some kennels provide wonderful escape proof, exercise areas. If your dog is a “jumper” or expert escape artist, please inform staff. This could be critical to ensure your dogs safety.

TAKE A DOG HOLIDAY PACK for your dog.
Take a piece of your clothing to leave in his kennel. The clothing should have your scent on it. This will help your dog/pup to feel less abandoned in the kennel, and aid in providing him with feelings of security.

Take lots of stuff for him to chew. Take along his favourite toys and non-synthetic chews to vent on. (pigs ears, cow hooves, etc.) You can even provide the staff with some yummy fillings for them to pack inside the hooves. Peanut butter, Bovril, whatever … All of this will aid in relieving boredom, reducing stress and providing him with something to occupy himself with in your absence.

Do take his own bed and bedding.

DON’T FORGET TO LET STAFF KNOW THAT ….. you don’t care if his bedding, toys, or other items are destroyed, chewed up, or peed on. If you don’t let them know. Staff will often whisk them away, to make sure they are presented to you when you collect your dog – clean and in one piece.

CLICKER INFORMATION - The Shape of Shaping: Some Historical Notes
Taking shape: Shaping is defined a concept that many pet owners find hard to grasp. We're used to making animals do things by leading them or pushing them into the behavior we want—and it is hard to believe that there is another way. Common sense tells us that there is no possible way to get an animal to do something it has never done before, doing nothing yourself but reinforcing spontaneous movements.
The word "shaping" is scientific slang for building a particular behavior by using a series of small steps to achieve it. Shaping allows you to create behavior from scratch without physical control or corrections, but rather by drawing on your animal's natural ability to learn.
Even B.F. Skinner did not start out training animals by capturing and shaping spontaneously offered behavior. Initially, he taught his laboratory animals to press levers and accomplish other tasks by making small changes in the environment: raising the height of a bar in small increments until an animal had to reach higher, or increasing the "stiffness" of a button so a pigeon learned to peck harder. This method was called successive approximation.
In 1943, while waiting for a government grant to come through, Skinner and two of his graduate students decided to see if they could teach one of their experimental pigeons to bowl in a laboratory on the top floor of a building in Minnesota. They started by putting the pigeon and a wooden ball in a box rigged with an automatic feeder, planning to trip the feeder when the pigeon swiped at the ball with its beak. But the pigeon did not swipe at the ball as they had hoped, and they grew tired of waiting. Skinner decided to reinforce any movement toward the ball, even just one look toward it. When the pigeon looked in that direction, he clicked the switch, opening the feeder briefly so the pigeon could get a bit of corn.
Skinner later wrote, "The result amazed us. In a few moments, the ball was caroming off the walls of the box as if the pigeon had been a champion squash player." Skinner had made a discovery that astonished even him: It was much easier to shape behavior by hand than by changing the environment. Skinner’s daughter, behavior analyst Julie Vargas, Ph.D., has told me, "His realization at that moment was that if you could do this, you could shape behavior anywhere, in any environment." You did not need to manipulate the task or build elaborate apparatus. You could just reinforce moves in the right direction.
Skinner named this newly discovered method shaping, to differentiate it from the mechanical process of successive approximation.
Instant gratification: Even B.F. Skinner did not start out training animals by capturing and shaping spontaneously offered behavior. Shaping depends on reinforcing the desired action instantaneously, as it is happening. A key factor in Skinner's early research setting was that the feeders made noise as soon as they were tripped. This click became the conditioned reinforcer that meant food was coming. It was the marker signal that identified the move being reinforced.
Skinner recognized the value of the conditioned reinforcer. For the cameras of Look magazine, he trained a dog to jump higher and higher up a wall using a sound and some food; in a popular magazine article in 1951, he recommended the toy cricket or clicker as a good conditioned reinforcer for dog training.
Some people in the behavioral and animal communities have taken to using the word "shaping" to describe any training that increases a response in small increments, even though the response may be generated or elicited by luring, force, verbal instruction, environmental manipulation, or other external pressure, rather than being offered spontaneously. The correct term for these non-spontaneous methods would be successive approximation, however. Many animal trainers and sports coaches have used successive approximation for years, gradually raising the height of jumps, the distance of a race, and the heaviness of weights, all to improve performance. The terms "free shaping" and "cold shaping" have arisen as additional ways to identify true shaping, when the animal's volunteered or spontaneous behavior is the key factor in the development of the behavior.
Gifted trainers have also used timely praise and play to reinforce spontaneous behavior, and thus develop new kinds of performance without baiting or forcing the movements. The scientific importance of Skinner's discovery was that these principles became generally applicable by any user and in any learning situation, not just by the rare, intuitive, or masterful individual. Sometimes faster is better: An important characteristic of shaping is the speed with which new responses can develop. This is not a method that requires a lot of practice and repetition.
Often, as Skinner reported with his ball-playing pigeon, complex new behavior can develop in a few minutes. Francis Mechner, Ph.D. suggests that one explanation for this rapid increase in behavioral topographies is that the marker identifies not only a position—the paw is three inches in the air—but a vector, a movement in a direction. By clicking during the upward movement of the paw, the shaper reinforces not only the current outcome—a three-inch lift—but also the action that is taking place: lifting upward. Reinforcement quickly leads to stronger paw movements and higher lifts, giving the shaper even more and larger behaviors to select.
Birth of clicker training: The terms "free shaping" and "cold shaping" have arisen as additional ways to identify true shaping, when the animal's volunteered or spontaneous behavior is the key factor in the development of the behavior. Keller Breland, one of the graduate students present at the moment of Skinner's discovery, left psychology to develop a business based on animal training. In the 1960s, he was one of several behaviorists who carried shaping by use of a marker signal (usually a whistle) into the relatively new world of marine mammal training. Through the late 1980s and early 1990s, after nearly thirty years of development in oceanariums around the world, marker-based shaping spread further, from the marine mammal world into the zoo world, carried to the management of other species by keepers, curators, and consultants, some of whom began their careers as marine mammal trainers.
Over the next decades, however, the behavioral research community largely dismissed the importance of the marker signal, focusing instead on the value to the learner, whether animal or human, of the primary reinforcer, usually food. In shaping behavior in the modern research setting, cooperation is often still guaranteed in animals by increasing hunger, keeping research animals at 85% of normal body weight. In humans, as when teaching necessary skills to children with developmental deficits, cooperation is sought by identifying and using highly preferred food items.
Clicker training, a popular method of training dogs, horses, and other pets using shaping and a marker signal, the clicker, to replace traditional prompting and correction-based training, dates to two presentations in May of 1992. One, organized and led by myself, occurred at the annual meeting of the Association for Behavior Analysis in San Francisco and included dog trainer Gary Wilkes (first to locate and use a commercially available plastic box clicker with dogs), San Diego Zoo curator Gary Priest, and Sea Life Park head trainer Ingrid Kang Shallenberger. That same weekend, Wilkes, Shallenberger, and I presented a seminar for 250 dog trainers outside of San Francisco. The subsequent rapid expansion of the clicker training community was fueled by the widening availability of the internet.
The shape of things to come: The uses and practices of shaping and its application continue to evolve. In 2001, horse trainer and gymnastics coach Theresa McKeon, together with biochemist and dog trainer Joan Orr and dance teacher Beth Wheeler, began developing the use of the marker signal in teaching physical skills to humans, a practical applications system dubbed TAGteach. As with any emerging technology, new practices ask questions of the basic underlying sciences. Clicker training and shaping-related studies of both the underlying principles and their applications are underway in behavioral ecology, behavior analysis, sports psychology, and neuroscience.

FEEDBACK ON HORSE ABUSE CASE: The case of the horse that was flogged by a young woman in Cornilia in the Eastern Free State was heard last week when the defense presented their case. The accused family entered a plea of guilty, under offences committed under various sections of the Animal Protection Act. The stepfather for knowingly permitting the abuse to be committed on his property, and the mother for actively assisting in the abuse. The case for the prosecution, prior to sentencing will be heard on the 8th April at the Cornilia Court, whereupon further evidence will be presented by the prosecution. As I might be appearing as a witness for the prosecution I am unable to furnish any further information or details, as it could damage the case for the prosecution, but under the law, spectators are permitted in the courtroom. However, no organized demonstrations are permitted without prior written permission from the police in the relevant magisterial district.
DO DOGS KNOW WHEN THEY'VE DONE SOMETHING WRONG? Dogs who have been punished before for something often give the impression that they 'know' they have done something wrong. So what does this really mean, when have they really learned not to do something, and how will it help you with training?
Dogs who are punished will often display what behaviourists call 'avoidance behaviour' or 'appeasement behaviour'. They very quickly learn how their owner behaves prior to dishing out a punishment, and will display this avoidance or appeasement behaviour before the punishment even commences.
Many dog owners interpret this as proof that the dog "knew" what he did was wrong. Unfortunately for both dog and owner, this is a misunderstanding. Why unfortunate? The owner thinks his dog is deliberately being naughty, and the punishments can escalate. What's more, the owner now believes that the dog is simply being disobedient, and can fail to take a course of effective behaviour management or training. A dog will demonstrate that punishment has been effective when the punished behaviour stops. Whether the dog knows it is 'wrong' or not is not something we can’t really 'know' at this stage in our evolution - after all, dogs can't talk and we can't read minds.
An example - one dog owner complained that his dog was escaping from his yard. The owner had heavily scolded the dog for this behaviour in the past, as his last dog was run over and killed after escaping from the yard. Now the dog would cringe when returning from his outings. To confuse the issue even more, when a third party told the owner that his dog had been seen outside the yard, the dog again cringed, picking up the subtle signs that his owner was angry and upset. Dogs are very attuned to this sort of thing.
The dog had learned what to look for when a scolding was about to come. He had also learned that returning to the yard resulted in a scolding. He did not learn to stay in the yard at all, had he learned this he would not have escaped. We only know that a punishment is effective if the behaviour stops.The owner escalated scolding to the point of physical abuse, desperate not to lose another dog on the road. He believed that his dog knew that leaving the yard was 'wrong', because his dog cringed when he returned. With this belief firmly in the owner's mind, it didn't make sense to take more effective action such as installing a better latch on the gate and a spring to automatically shut the gate when visitors forgot to shut it. He was blinded to these more sensible and effective options, because he truly believed that his dog already 'knew' not to leave the yard.
I can only feel sorry for this dog and his owner. Yet another of this poor fellow's dogs will probably be lost, stolen or run over by a car and I know that he genuinely has a deep love for his dogs. Unfortunately, he was convinced that his dog 'knew' he had done something wrong and was therefore only being disobedient. Even if his dog did know that he had done something wrong, the scolding was clearly not effective as the dangerous behaviour continued unabated. Why bother? There are better options, such as improving fencing and gates, providing environmental enrichment by way of toys or treat-balls, and taking daily walks on-lead.

THE MENTAL HOSPITAL PHONE MENU
Hello and thank you for calling the State Mental Hospital. Please select from the following options menu.
If you are obsessive compulsive, please press 1 repeatedly. ……………….
If you are co-dependent, please ask someone to please press 2 for you. If you have multiple personalities, press 3,4,5 & 6. If you are paranoid, we know who you are, and what you want, so please stay on the line so that we can trace your call. If you are delusional, press 7 and you call will be forwarded to the Mother Ship. If you are schizophrenic, listen carefully and a little voice will tell you which number to press. If you are manic-depressive, it doesn’t matter which number you press, nothing will make you happy anyway. If you are dyslexic, press 96969696969696969696969 If you are bipolar, please leave a message after the beep or before the beep or after the beep. Please wait for the beep. If you have short term memory loss, press 9. If you have short term memory loss, press 9. If you have low self-esteem, please hang up, our operators are far to busy to talk with you. If you are menopausal, put the gun down, hang up, turn on the fan and then lie down and cry. You wont be crazy forever. If you are blond, don’t press any buttons, you’ll just mess it all up.
That’s all for now folks – please continue to get the letters to the editor rolling – we value your news, views and ideas, and I will print whatever you throw at me (no matter how controversial – in fact let’s be honest, the more controversial the better!) We also welcome animal related articles and training and behaviour tips!
Best Regards
Louise