Paws News November 2008

Paws Abilities Behaviour & Learning Centre
Newsletter Number – 24 NOVEMBER 2008

A warm welcome to all Paws Abilities, students, behavioural clients, family and friends.
Just in case you have missed any of our recent training classes we regret to inform everyone that our Training Fees have been slightly increased. Fees are now R150 per month, payable in advance. This still keeps our training fees well below the average school in Gauteng. Between Louise, Mandy, Rose, Siobhan, Maureen and Emily, we now hold TEN CLASSES of different levels each Saturday. We are probably the only school that caters for so many different handler needs. We have formal (show) obedience classes. Fun (social) non-competitive training classes. Three different levels of early puppy education – helping them through their various behavioural and intellectual developmental stages. We also offer personalised, private (one on one) training at our grounds – a bonus for owners whose dogs can not cope (yet) with a group class – or for those who work on Saturdays. Of course the aim is always to eventually integrate such dogs into a mainstream class – that is once the owners have the basic handling skills and the dogs are coping.
More Paws Abilities News - Our Agility Class is presently on hold for a short while whilst the equipment is being refurbished. You will be informed as soon as a date is set for the next group.
You know, dog training is not easy. It is very hard, and as we all know, to succeed owners need to actually put some effort into the human/canine relationship, practice for short periods, regularly, take their dogs out for lots of walks in various different locations to provide them with life coping skills, and of course most importantly play and have fun with your dog.
One of the problems we seem to encounter occasionally with some of our training school intakes – is the drop out rate. This is evident in the lower classes, where people join with the best of intentions. However, many people end up “paying the price” at a later stage when often what the owners perceive is just a difficult youngster, (who is taxing for the owner to train in class) develops into something far more serious.
Some people simply find it just too much trouble: Are too lazy: Have to active a social life: Have to cater to their kids etc. The point is, that they miss out on show much of the “early window opportunity of learning” that is so short anyway. From 8 weeks to 5 months a pup often learns more than it does for the rest of its entire life – Subsequently, often by the time owners realise that they have made a “terrible mistake by dropping out” it is sometimes to late to pick up the pieces. By then the dog might have bitten someone or whatever issues it had, made worse by ignoring them.
Problems do not disappear simply by walking away. When left – most problems get worse!
Even if owners only begin to train their dog much later in life – it has been seen to dramatically change the dogs attitude and behaviour. By developing a better understanding of their dog – owners end up with a better relationship with their “best friend” and by providing the dog with much needed mental stimulation – often certain problem behaviours (such as destructive behaviours caused by boredom) simply disappear!
The advice that we give to all our students is DON’T GIVE UP TOO SOON – as the whole point is to WORK THROUGH the problem. WHATEVER IT TAKES. At Paws Abilities - whether the problem needs to be addressed via a private behavioural consultation, or private training sessions to bring the dog and owner up to scratch. There is usually a way to resolve most problems, behavioural and training problems. It just takes time, patience, and most importantly CONSISTENCY from owners and their families. PLEASE IF YOU ARE EXPERIENCING A PROBLEM – COME TO ONE OF OUR EXPERIENCED INSTRUCTORS, WHO WILL BE ABLE TO ADVISE YOU OF HOW TO PROCEED

HOMEWORK TIPS
õ If your pup has already been through baby puppy school and already has acquired the skills of basic focus, concentration and other beginner skills, we strongly suggest that you DO NOT practice each exercise taught in class each and every day. Practice 1 OR TWO EXERCISE A DAY for a couple of minutes at a time only. By doing this you will avoid you and your dog becoming bored or stale!

õ If you have just started dog training for the first time and your dog/pup has NOT been through our excellent puppy learning and socialisation programme – then you will need to practice a little more. A couple of exercises for a couple of minutes each day – but beware of overdoing it.

õ NEVER practice with your dog after a bad day at the office, if you are tired or in a bad mood!

õ Make sure that each interaction and practice session is both fun and rewarding for your dog.

õ Try to practise in a different location each day, facing a different direction, in different environments, at different times and in different weather conditions, to make sure that your dog learns to obey you under any circumstances.

õ Put into practise the exercises that you have learnt in class, into your daily routines.

õ You do not have to set aside time for “formal” homework. Make it fit into your lifestyle!

õ There is no excuse for not performing homework! You can practice “Stays’ “Retrieves”, “Recalls” and straight “Sits”, whilst you are sitting in a chair watching your favourite soapy on the TV.

õ Only practise for a few minutes at a time. Rather perform two or three very short practice sessions of a couple of minutes each, than one long boring hour long session. Even “Heelwork” exercises can be performed during daily activities. You should not, in fact make homework a formal session. Incorporate homework into a fun play session.

õ Quit while you are ahead! If the dog has successfully performed an exercise once – do not repeat it again and again. Not only are you going to bore your dog to pieces and end up a “nag”, but if the handler makes a mistake, (which is more likely than the dog making a mistake) then you will have to repeat the exercise to gain perfection (putting the dog under pressure) until you BOTH get it right.

õ For example:- It has been proved that, one perfect “Retrieve” is worth 20 bad ones! One minute’s perfect “Heelwork” is worth hours of sloppy turns! One perfect recall with a “Straight Sit” is worth a dozen recalls with crooked sits.

õ Bit by bit, get your dog used to working with distractions. Start with mild, slight distractions and over a period of time, work up to something a bit more substantial, with louder noises and more physical activities.

õ If at any time the dog regresses – go back to the level where he was working competently. Stay at that level for a while and only then progress to more challenging work.



WHAT TO DO WHEN COUPLES DIVORCE
What is best for a dog when a couple divorces? Sometimes the splitting couple are two people who truly love and value the dog equally, and neither is willing or emotionally prepared to give it up totally to the other. After all, some splits take one or both partners by surprise, and it's always very emotionally upsetting to go through divorce. At such times, the dog may be the strongest emotional and psychological ally upon which one or both parties rely to get them through the distress. This is especially relevant if one or both people suffered severe stress before and the dog was a strong support to them then.

Sometimes the demand is made by a person who cares little or nothing for the dog, may in fact be glad to be rid of it, but use their "custody rights" to hurt their former partner by depriving them of a highly valued companion for whatever time they can. I've seen cases where the less-caring person used their time with the dog to actually train the dog to do what their former partner hates, like jumping on people or furniture, barking excessively or soiling indoors. Few people know what you hate more than a former spouse! And few dogs will be as responsive to your demands as YOURS!

Sometimes the dog is more affection bonded with one person but more secure and confident when with the other. Many dogs may prefer the wife for affection and petting but feel more secure with the husband, perceived as the "stronger" true pack Alpha. This further complicates deciding who should get the dog exclusively or more because the dog seems happier when with one person but calmer, more serene and "better off" when with the other.

In the name of fairness, unwitting attorneys may demand equal dog time for their client not knowing the client is negatively motivated and such an event will hurt the dog and the other party. In this case, by demanding equal dog time, the law and the attorney contribute to an annoying inconvenience for the "winning" partner by making them care for a dog they don't want, stressing the person who must place their beloved dog with a known uncaring person, and upsetting the dog substantially by forcing it to spend time in an uncaring home and be separated from its most strongly bonded person. This is a lose-lose-lose situation; nothing and no one wins except perhaps the attorneys who are now erroneously satisfied that they did things "equally and fairly."

Shared joint custody is very stressing to the dog even when agreed upon by all humans. Since one person moves away, when is the dog on its defendable "home turf," when it's in the familiar house with the former wife or when it's in a new environment with the old husband? Which is it supposed to protect as its home territory? When it's with the wife in its familiar home, is it supposed to accept all strange men who enter or challenge them in Alpha's absence? If "mom" has playful or serious words with a new man, is the dog supposed to protect her from him? If not, the dog is very confused and stressed and loses its value in a real attack.
If so, what to do when the new man reprimands the dog for threatening him? Whose side does SHE take, her dog's or her lover's and potential new husband? When with the old husband, it is supposed to welcome and obey a strange alpha bitch, his new girlfriend?

If children are involved, the dog's confusion and stress increase tremendously. Is the dog supposed to welcome or challenge its former alpha male when he now visits to see the kids? If mom forms a strong new relationship, does that change the dog's job when the "old dad" returns? How does the dog appropriately challenge its old Alpha when in one home but protect the same person when in his new home and vehicle? To make this worse for the dog, mom is seldom pleased when "old dad" shows up, even for a temporary visit. The dog now learns that the arrival of its former alpha male distresses the alpha bitch and the pack. Yet it smells his scent everywhere in its familiar home. If the new male is present, is the dog to defend the visiting old master or side with the new one? This entire scenario stresses HUMANS to the point of medication, and children even more so. Imagine what it does to the DOG!

Commonly the departed person will get their own dog later. Now the dog that has known this person as a trusted and bonded pack member or even leader is intruding on another dog's territory every time it visits. If there is friction between the dogs, the first one is usually the one that gets punished because the owner is trying to form a firm, lasting bond with the new dog. So, to the old dog, is the new one a welcome visitor or bold intruder? This may happen with multiple dogs in the new home. And just TRY to get it to be good with the new female's cat! And what's it supposed to do about the new partner's kids or a child the new couple has? All this is confusing enough for the dog but gets exponentially worse when the dog will be put in these different and unsettled conditions over and over for the rest of its life.

If ANYONE involved in the divorce truly cares about the dog, attorneys included, they should decide to reach a firm conclusion on who gets it permanently, totally, full time, from now on. Split, shared or joint dog custody is absurd. It perniciously hurts many innocents with no benefit except to the most wicked. Avoid it.

This applies equally to cats. If you have a cat equally bonded to both owners, two cats strongly bonded to each other, or a dog and a cat with a strong bond between them, or any number or combinations of strongly bonded dogs and cats, MAKE THE BREAK QUICK AND PERMANENT. You're doing all of them a destructive cruelty to all people or pets to "visit". DON'T DO IT. MAKE THE BREAK TOTAL, ONCE, END IT AND GET ON WITH LIFE. It's the most gentle, loving gift you can give your beloved, bonded companion animals when you split.


Calming Signals-The Art of Survival by Turid Rugaas

For species who live in packs it’s important to be able to communicate with its own kind. Both in order to cooperate when they hunt, to bring up their offspring, and perhaps most importantly: to live in peace with each other. Conflicts are dangerous - they cause physical injuries and a weakened pack, which is something that no pack can afford - it will cause them to go extinct.
Dogs live in a world of sensory input: visual, olfactory, auditory perceptions. They easily perceive tiny details - a quick signal, a slight change in another’s behaviour, a dog can be trained to answer your whispering voice. There’s no need to shout commands, to make the tone of our voice deep and angry - what Karen Pryor refers to as swatting flies with a shovel. Dogs have about 30 calming signals, perhaps even more. Some of these signals are used by most dogs, while other dogs have an incredibly rich ´vocabulary´. It varies from dog to dog.
The problem: Dogs use this communication system towards us humans, simply because it’s the language they know and think everyone understands. By failing to see your dog using calming signals on you, and perhaps even punish the dog for using them, you risk causing serious harm to your dog. Some may simply give up using the calming signals, including with other dogs. Others may get so desperate and frustrated that they get aggressive, nervous or stressed out as a result. Puppies and young dogs may actually go into a state of shock.
Basic knowledge: Dad calls Prince and has learned in (the “wrong” kind of training) class that he needs to sound strict and dominant so that Prince will understand who is in charge. Prince finds dad’s voice to be aggressive, and being a dog he instantly give dad a calming signal in order to make him stop being aggressive. Prince will perhaps lick his own nose, yawn, turn away - which will result in dad becoming angry for real, because dad perceives Prince as being pig-headed, stubborn and disobedient. Prince is punished for using his calming signals to calm dad. This is a typical example of something that happens on an everyday basis with many dog owners.
We need to learn to understand the language of dogs so that we can understand what our dogs are telling us. That is the secret of having a good life together.

How the dog is using the calming signals

Yawning: The dog may yawn when someone bends over him, when you sound angry, when there’s yelling and quarrelling in the family, when the dog is at the vet’s office, when someone is walking directly at the dog, when the dog is excited with happiness and anticipation - for instance by the door when you are about to go for a walk, when you ask the dog to do something he doesn’t feel like doing, when your training sessions are too long and the dog gets tired, when you have said NO for doing something you disapprove of, and in many other situations.
Threatening signals (to walk straight at, reach for the dog, bending over the dog, staring into the dog’s eyes, fast movements, and so on) will always cause the dog to use a calming signal. There are about 30 different calming signals, so even when many dogs will yawn, other dogs may use another calming signal.
All dogs knows all the signals. When one dog yawns and turn his head to the side, the dog he is ´talking to´ may lick his nose and turn his back - or do something completely different.
The signals are international and universal. All dogs all over the worlds have the same language. A dog from Japan would be understood by an elkhound that lives in an isolated valley in Norway. They will have no communication problems!
Licking: Licking is another signal that is used often. Especially by black dogs, dogs with a lot of hair around their faces, and others who’s facial expressions for some reasons are more difficult to see than those of dogs with lighter colours, visible eyes and long noses. But anyone can use licking, and all dogs understand it no matter how quick it is. The quick little lick on the nose is easier to see if you watch the dog from in front. It’s best seen if you can find somewhere you can sit in peace and quiet and observe. Once you have learned to see the lick, you will also be able to see it while walking the dog. Sometimes it’s nothing more than a very quick lick, the tip of the tongue is barely visible outside the mouth, and only for a short second. But other dogs see it, understand it and respond to it. Any signal is always returned with a signal.

Turning away/turning of the head: The dog can turn its head slightly to one side, turn the head completely over to the side, or turn completely around so that the back and tail is facing whoever the dog is calming. This is one of the signals you may see most of the time in dogs. When someone is approaching your dog from in front, he will turn away in one of these ways. When you seem angry, aggressive or threatening, you will also see one of these variations of the signal. When you bend over a dog to stroke him, he will turn his head away from you. When you make your training sessions too long or too difficult, he will turn his head away from you. When the dog is taken by surprise or take someone by surprise, he will turn away quickly. The same happens when someone is staring or acting in a threatening way.
In most cases, this signal will make the other dog calm down. It’s a fantastic way in which to solve conflicts, and it’s used a lot by all dogs, whether they are puppies or adults, high or low ranking, and so on. Allow your dog to use it! Dogs are experts at solving and avoiding conflicts - they know how to deal with conflicts.
Play bow: Going down with front legs in a bowing position can be an invitation to play if the dog is moving legs from side to side in a playful manner. Just as often, the dog is standing still while bowing and is using the signal to calm someone down. These signals often have double meanings and may be used in many different ways - often the invitation to play is a calming signal by itself because the dog is making a potentially dangerous situation less tense and diverts with something safe.
Recently, in a puppy class with a mix of puppies, one of them was afraid of the others in the beginning. The others left him alone and respected his fear. In the end he would dare to approach the others. When he did, he went into a play bow as soon as one of the other dogs looked at him. It was an obvious combination of slight fear of the others, as well as wanting to take part in the playing. When two dogs approach each other too abruptly, you will often see that they go into a play bow. This is one of the signals that are easy to see, especially because they remain standing in the bow position for a few seconds so that you have plenty of time to observe it.
Clicking Calming Signals
bY kAREN pRIOR
Before a dog launches into overt displays of barking etc., it almost inevitably does those things Turid calls calming signals. Turning the head aside a little and licking the lips are the two I use most. In the first place, if you watch for those behaviours you will be able to gauge the distance at which your dog feels pressured, way before he or she starts acting up. This tells you at what distance to start reshaping with the clicker.
Second, if you click and treat the calming signals themselves they will increase; and since they are the first line of defence, and open threat/ attack is the last line of defence, increasing these signals tends to replace the more overt behaviour. Plus the dog feels better, too. You can then click to reduce the distance at which the calming signals appear; and you can negatively reward the dog for giving those signals by going away from the object he's fearful of (not backwards: sideways.)
Once you get the tolerable distance down to fifty feet or less, you can use the click to reinforce passing by another dog in a big arc (another calming signal), something you will arrange by walking in a big arc yourself--giving that nasty stranger a wide berth, as it were, but clicking your dog for doing that, with you. These are just a few very straightforward uses of the clicker in emotional conflict situations; there are dozens more. Clicker training and developing good cues for calming signals is a fine way to get rid of hysterical barking. Thinking back, I can remember a truly yappy snappy Schnauzer puppy that calmed down, in Trondheim.
In Helsinki I used cue-training with an overly barky Lapp herding dog, an eight-year-old bitch; well trained really, the owners had the bark on cue but not the "shut up." Here's how. You cue for barking, click the bark, then give a different, very obvious, brand-new hand signal in the dog's face. (You don't need to build the behaviour of silence, the behaviour already exists; what you need to build is a 'cue' for silence.) The dog is startled, licks or averts face; you click that, and in a few back and forths you have bark and no bark on cue and under control. To the dog, it's bark, duck and lick, bark, duck and lick, but do you care? NO. Especially since the 'no bark' cue can cause your dog to send calming signals to himself and, by the by, to the dog he's facing, who will see them.

Quote from Turid Rugaas’ book:
“Dogs, being pack animals, have a language for communication with each other. Canine language in general consists of a large variety of signals using body, face, ears, tail, sounds, movement and expression. The dog’s innate ability to signal is easily lost or reinforced through life’s experience. If we study the signals dogs use with each other and use them ourselves, we increase our ability to communicate with our dogs. Most noteworthy of all canine signals are the calming signals, which are used to maintain a healthy social hierarchy and resolution of conflict within the flock. These are skills which, when carried over to our own interactions with dogs, can be highly beneficial to our relationship.

Dogs have the ability to calm themselves in the face of a shock (fearful or stressful situation) and to calm each other as well. As an example let’s consider the manner in which dogs meet each other. Dogs that are worried in a social situation can communicate concepts such as, ‘I know you are the boss around here and I won’t make trouble, ‘furthermore, the boss dog is very apt to want the worried dog to realize that no trouble is intended. ‘Don’t worry, I’m in charge around here and I mean you no harm.’ Dogs that do not signal properly can be the cause of problems.”


THINGS TO CONSIDER BEFORE BUYING A PUPPY:
Owning a puppy is a privilege, a responsibility and a lifetime commitment! The average dog can live for 12 – 15 years, so this should not be a decision taken lightly. A family should give serious thought and planning to the purchase, before going out to buy a puppy.

A puppy is not something that should be bought on a whim, taken on as an act of sympathy or pity, or collected as a fashion statement or a fashion accessory! My first advice to any family is “don’t rush into anything!” Take your time before making any decisions. A lengthy family discussion is a good thing at this time. The following should be fully discussed by the whole family.

ARE YOU A “WORTHY” PROSPECTIVE DOG OWNER?
Are you in a financial position to be able to afford the “privilege” of buying a “suitable” puppy and the continued ongoing financial burden of keeping a dog?
Are you sure that your house and garden (fencing etc) is a safe/suitable and secure environment to keep a puppy/dog?
Are their any other considerations you need to take into account, such as religion, cultural aspects, children with allergies or family health problems etc that could affect any interactions with the puppy?
Does your lifestyle warrant owning a dog?
Do you and your family have the “TIME” and energy it takes to be a responsible dog owner for the next ten to sixteen years? (Longevity is breed specific)
Who is going to be responsible for the care, feeding, grooming and cleaning up after the new puppy?
Where is the pup going to sleep?
Who is going to be responsible for the regular exercise and training of the puppy for the next 10 to 15 years?
When you are away on holiday or business what will happen to the dog/pup?
What breed of pup are you going to choose in order to fit in with your lifestyle and home environment?
Where are you going to purchase a dog/pup?

WHY DO YOU WANT A PUPPY?
This is not quite as silly a question as it sounds! People buy pets for many different reasons and you should be very sure of your motivation. You need to be sure that you truly WANT a puppy and the hassles and responsibilities that come with it

If you are getting a puppy just for the kids – DON’T!
Children as you well know have very short attention spans, the puppy will be a novelty for a while, and then it starts to grow up……………At some stage, the puppy starts to nip the children’s hands, chew up their toys, becomes more demanding and without the correct upbringing and training, soon becomes a damn nuisance! This is the time that most young children seriously start to lose interest!

If you are getting a puppy to teach your children responsibility, DON’T!
You know as a parent, no matter what rules you make, the children are not going to be caring for this pet for the next 10 to 15 years. YOU ARE! So, do not try to fool yourself into thinking that the children will care for and look after the puppy, because you know that is not going to happen.

PUPPIES/DOGS ARE NOT!
· Puppies are not - Toys or playthings to keep the kids occupied. They are complex creatures with emotions and feelings, with very specific needs. They are extremely social animals needing lots of love, time, and energy and a “genuine long-term -life commitment” from their owners.
· Puppies are not - Mobile security systems. If you are getting a dog to keep in the yard just to protect your property – DON’T! For a dog to want to protect your family and property, he needs to feel and be included as part of the larger group/pack (family). If the relationship is appropriate and the dog is genetically sound, he will protect you and yours. But, if he is kept in solitary confinement behind four concrete walls with no stimulation and no interaction with your family, and/or is kept isolated from the world at large, then he will have no reason to protect anything but HIMSELF. If this is the case, then rather go out and spend the money on a good security system.
· Puppies are not - A fashion statement nor a status symbol!
With each new doggie movie that is released, hoards of unscrupulous back yard breeders and puppy mills mass-produce poor specimens of puppies for the gullible public to buy! The fashion changes with each new film release!
The public needs to understand that each dog you see starring in a film has been specially researched, selected, bred, and trained for the part. It would therefore be illogical to think that each individual dog of each breed has the same character, nature, or is equal in trainability to his film star counterpart!
· Puppies are not: - A child substitute! If you are getting a puppy for this reason what is the position of the dog going to be when you become a harassed new mom? Is this pet going to end up in “doggie jail” – condemned to a life alone, in the back garden, lonely, rejected, neglected and forgotten?

CAN YOU AFFORD TO KEEP A DOG?
Dogs are expensive to purchase and maintain. The following will give you an idea of what is involved.
· Cost of purchasing from a reputable breeder.
· Cost of safe fencing and securing the immediate environment.
· Cost of bedding and sleeping arrangements.
· Cost of good quality food and hygienic safe feed/water dishes.
· Cost of regular parasite control, both external (fleas/ticks) and internal (de-worming.) This is an ongoing cost, monthly for external parasites (fleas/ticks) and every three to four months or so for internal parasites (worms), for the rest of the dog’s life! If these things are neglected both the dog and the family’s heath can be compromised. Certain animal parasites such as tapeworms can be transmitted to humans!
· Biting flies can also be a problem and in the summer months preventative fly repellent will need to be applied every couple of days.
· Cost of brushes and grooming equipment - dog shampoos, dips etc.
· Cost of professional grooming and clipping. This is specific to certain breeds and includes breeds such as the French Poodle, which needs regular bathing, clipping, and brushing out.
· Cost of medical bills due to ill health or genetic problems.
If your dog/puppy gets ill, surgery and the veterinary bills can be very costly. A Pet’s Medical Aid could be considered.
· Cost of sterilisation for both dog and bitch puppies at about six months of age. Neutered male dogs and spayed female bitches make the best house pets with various other advantages including longevity!
· Cost of kennelling the animal when you are away on holiday or business or the cost of paying someone to “house sit” and be a primary care giver.
· Cost of daily cleaning up after the pup – pups and dogs pee and poop a LOT!
· Cost of training classes and training equipment.
· Cost of entertainment / dog toys / chew items for teething, etc.
· Cost of replacement for all the goodies that the puppy is going to destroy!

Still convinced you want to buy a puppy?

DO YOU HAVE THE “TIME” TO CARE FOR, RAISE AND EDUCATE A PUPPY?
Owning a dog is extremely time-consuming. Training, exercising, feeding, grooming and cleaning up after a dog all take time. As a prospective dog owner you must know that “time” is man’s most valuable commodity and, as the world seems to get smaller and busier by the day, you need to be sure that you are going to have enough time to meet all the future needs of your pup.

Again I stress this can be for the next 12 years or so! The following will give you an idea of just what is involved in the daily routine of keeping a dog.

# Feeding: The average seven-week-old pup is fed four times per day. From about six months of age, pups are fed three times per day. The average adult dog is fed twice a day.

# Exercise: Dogs (depending on breed) need to be exercised off the property at least three to four times per week. This is for mental stimulation as well as exercise and to avoid behavioural problems such as confinement stress and the development of destructive behaviours.

# Grooming: This depends on the breed of dog and the individual type of coat. With a short haired breed such as a Labrador or a Staffordshire Terrier you could get away with a quick rub over with a grooming glove, a couple of times a week. A longhaired breed such as a Border Collie would need daily brushing out. Breeds such as the French Poodle need regular professional attention.

# Training: With a tiny puppy you will need to spend a couple of minutes several times a day for learning. An adult dog will need a session of about 15 minutes several times a week. This is not only for learning but also for mental stimulation and discipline.

# Cleaning up: Dogs and puppies eliminate (toilet) several times a day. For reasons of hygiene for both pet and the family, faeces need to be picked up at least once a day.

# Washing: Blankets, bedding and sleeping areas will also need to be washed every week and regularly treated with a preventative tick/flea product.

# Washing up: Feed dishes need to be washed after each meal to stop attracting flies and the water bowl should be changed, washed and refilled daily.

As you can see from the above, owning and bringing up a dog is very time consuming, energy consuming and costly! Still convinced that you want to buy a Puppy?

Why Breed or Buy While the Homeless DIE!


CHALLENGE FEEDING YOUR DOG
Ways to prevent boredom in “only” dogs! Is your dog looking for a new challenge? Does he have too much time on his paws and energy to spare despite your best efforts to exhaust him with long walks? Perhaps you need to think again about his meal times.

For many dogs feeding times are the highlight of the day, but 30 seconds later the bowl is empty and he is left with nothing to look forward to. This is obviously a very unnatural situation. Wild dogs and wolves spend a large portion of time and effort acquiring food. No one is suggesting that you stop feeding your dog and send him out to find his own dinner, but you can make getting food slightly more challenging.

The first step is to do away with the food bowl. Eating a pile of food is never going to be a challenge. Instead, try scattering dry food around the garden. Not only does this encourage your dog to use his nose, which is mentally tiring, but you will be amazed at how much energy he will expend criss-crossing the garden to ensure that he has found every
last crumb.

Try filling a plastic container with snacks and dry food. Then, as your dog nudges it around he will be rewarded with food falling out. Alternatively, suspending a similar container just above nose height will encourage aerial nudging! There are also commercial product such as the Buster® Cube which work the same way. If you really want to up the ante, stuff food into sterilised bones, or specially made toys such as a Kong®. These have an advantage as canned food can be put in as well. Once your dog gets adept at emptying his Kong®, try freezing it - that will slow him down a bit. Obviously supervise your dog when ever he is chewing toys to make sure he only eats the food and not the toy!

So why bother? Apart from prolonging your dog's mealtimes and consequently his pleasure at being fed, these are great energy-burners. Too often we try to physically exhaust our dogs with long walks without burning off any mental energy. The other advantage is that all dogs can do this, even the older ones which are no longer up to two hour walks or long games of fetch, but still need something to keep them occupied if they are not going to get depressed.


7 Stages of Puppy Development by Charlie Lafave
Are you ready to be shocked? Puppies go through 7 distinct developmental stages in their first 7 months of life. And you need to know these stages to better understand your puppy's behaviour as he grows from stage to stage. Here's what you need to know:

Seven Stages of Puppy Development
In order to understand why your puppy doesn’t listen to you sometimes, you need to understand all the stages of development puppies go through as they mature. They’re kind of like kids – you wouldn’t expect the same behaviour out of a two-year-old that you would out of a teenager, would you? Of course not! So why do you expect your eight-week-old puppy to react the same way your 3-year-old dog does?

Let’s take a look at the different stages, but before we do, keep in mind that these stages are generalisations – each dog is an individual. I’ve seen six-month-old dogs act more mature than eighteen-month-olds. Socialisation and training time you’ve spent with your dog can make an enormous difference in accelerating, or slowing down, your dog’s individual development.

Stage 1: The Transitional Stage - 2-3 Weeks
The Transitional stage generally lasts from age two to three weeks, and it’s during this time that your puppy’s eyes will open, and he’ll slowly start to respond to light and movement and sounds around him.
He’ll become a little more mobile during this period, trying to get his feet underneath him and crawling around in the box (or wherever home is.) He’ll start to recognise mom and his littermates, and any objects you might place in the box.

Stage 2: The Almost Ready To Meet The World Stage - 3-4 Weeks
The Almost ready to meet the world stage lasts from 3 to about 4 weeks, and your puppy undergoes rapid sensory development during this time. Fully alert to his environment, he’ll begin to recognise you and other family members. It’s best that breeders avoid loud noises or sudden changes during this period – negative events can have a serious impact on his personality and development right now. Puppies learn how to be a dog during this time, so it’s essential that they stay with mom and littermates.

Stage 3: The Overlap Stage - 4-7 Weeks
The Overlap stage lasts about 3-4 weeks to about 7 weeks. It’s called the overlap period because it overlaps with the Almost Ready period. From 3-4 weeks your puppy begins the most critical social development period of his life – he learns social interaction with his littermates, learns how to play and learns bite inhibition.

He’ll also learn discipline at this point – Mom will begin weaning the pups around this time, and will start teaching them basic manners, including accepting her as the leader of the pack. You can begin to introduce food to the pups starting around the 4th week – transition gradually as Mom weans them. Continue handling the pups daily, but don’t separate them from either Mom or litter mates for more than about 10 minutes per day. Puppies that are removed from the nest too early frequently are nervous, more prone to barking and biting and have a more difficult time with socialisation and training. Puppies need to be left with Mom and siblings until at least 7 weeks of age - and preferably a little longer - for optimum social development.

In terms of socialisation, this is the prime time for your puppy to learn basic social skills. Experts say that the best time in a puppy’s life to learn social skills is between 3 and 16 weeks of age – that’s the window of opportunity you have to make sure your puppy grows up to be a well-adjusted dog. It’s extremely important to leave your puppy with Mom and his littermates during this period. Don’t discipline for play fighting, house training / toilet training mistakes or mouthing – that’s all normal behaviour for a puppy at this stage.

Stage 4: The “I’m Afraid of Everything” Stage - 8 Weeks to 3 Months
The “I’m Afraid of Everything” Stage lasts from about 8 weeks to 3 months, and is characterised by rapid learning as well as a “fearful period” that usually pops up at around 8 to 10 weeks.

Not all dogs experience this stage, but most do, and they’ll appear terrified over things that they took in stride before. This is not a good time to engage in harsh discipline (not that you ever should anyway!), loud voices or traumatic events.

At this time your puppy’s bladder and bowels are starting to come under much better control, and he’s capable of sleeping through the night. (At last, you can get some rest!) You can begin teaching simple commands like: come, sit, stay, down, etc. Leash training can begin. It’s important not to isolate your puppy from human contact at this time, as he’ll continue to learn behaviours and manners that will affect him in later years.

Stage 5: The Juvenile Stage - 3 Months to 4 Months
The Juvenile stage typically lasts from 3 to 4 months of age, and it’s during this time your puppy is most like a toddler.
He’ll be a little more independent - he might start ignoring the commands he’s only recently learned – just like a child does when they’re trying to exert their new-found independence. As in “I don’t have to listen to you!” be calm and gently firm, with the emphasis on gentle and consistent handling of these situations is what’s required here. At Paws Abilities we cover all stages of puppy behavioural development in our early puppy education groups – held on Saturday mornings.

Stage 6: The Brat Stage 4-6 Months
The Brat Stage starts at about 4 months and runs until about 6 months, and it’s during this time your puppy will demonstrate even more independence and wilfulness. You may see a decline in his urge to please you – expect to see more “testing the limits” type of behaviours. He’ll be going through a teething cycle during this time, and will also be looking for things to chew on to relieve the pain and pressure. Frozen doggie bones can help sooth him during this period.

He may try to assert his new perceived “status” over other family members, especially children. Continue his training in
fun, play, obedience and basic commands, but make sure to never let him off his leash during this time unless you’re in a confined area. Many times pups at this age will ignore commands to return or come to their owners, which can be a dangerous, even fatal, breakdown in your dog’s response to you. If you turn him loose in a public place, and he bolts, the chances of injury or even death can result – so don’t take the chance.


He’ll now begin to go through the hormonal changes brought about by his growing sexual maturity, and you may see signs of rebelliousness. (Think adolescent teen-age boy!) If you haven’t already, you should have him neutered during this time. (Or spayed if you have a female.)

Stage 7: The Young Adult Stage - 6-18 Months
The Young Adulthood stage lasts from 6 months to about 18 months, and is usually a great time in your dog’s life - he’s young, he’s exuberant, he’s full of beans – and yet he’s learning all the things he needs to become a full-fledged adult dog.

Be realistic in your expectations of your dog at this time – just because he’s approaching his full growth and may look like an adult, he’s not as seasoned and experienced as you might expect. Gradually increase the scope of activities for your dog, as well as the training. You can start more advanced training during this period, such as herding or agility training, if that’s something both of you are interested in. At Paws Abilities we cater for all kinds of training, social and competitive and various fun dog sports. All of which are taught without force or confrontation – no choke chains, no shouting – just fun for dogs and owners!

Congratulations! You’ve raised your puppy through the 7 stages of childhood, er, I mean puppyhood, and now you have a grown-up, adult dog! Almost feels like you’ve raised a kid, doesn’t it?


The Campaign Against the Docking of Dogs' Tails
Note from Louise (Editor) I AM TOTALLY AGAINST THE DOCKING OF TAILS FOR COSMETIC REASONS!
I have found that this is not only medically cruel and unnecessary but from a BEHAVIOURAL point of view, highly detrimental in regards to the dogs ability to communicate successfully. A dog without a tail is at a distinct social disadvantage with regards to offering calming and non-aggressive body language signals. I see more aggressive / agonistic behaviour (both inter-species – dog on dog – and intra-species dog – human or other) presented with breeds who have docked tails than any other breed!

Whilst the following article is a tad scientific – it presents the facts in a clear, concise way and after reading it has provided me with adequate affirmation that my stand against the docking of tails for cosmetic reasons is true and just! I have also highlighted some of the more relevant and interesting FACTS! The article (below) was published in the Australian Veterinary Journal Vol 74, No. 1, July 1996.

PLEASE CUT AND PASTE THIS ARTICLE AND SEND IT TO AS MANY VETERINARIANS AS YOU CAN – LETS SEE IF THEY PROVIDE US WITH ANY INPUT - & I THINK WE ALSO NEED TO KNOW WHERE THEY STAND!

SUMMARY : The anatomy of the canine tail and its relationship to the physiological functions of the tail are described
and the effect of tail docking on these is discussed. Current knowledge on the physiology and anatomy of pain is described with particular reference to cosmetic tail docking in the neonatal puppy.

Recent advances in knowledge about pain and the changes in approach to pain management refute the premise that 'Puppies do not feel pain therefore tail docking is not Inhumane', and also the premise that 'the pain and the effects of tail docking are insignificant.' Six criteria to tell the 'necessity' to dock dogs are presented. The article shows that the reasons advanced for tail docking do not satisfy these criteria and so that docking dogs' tails cannot be justified.

Tail docking is an old custom, which is entrenched in certain dog breeds. This article aims to provide scientific information relevant to the cosmetic tail docking of dogs.

There have been no scientific studies or double blind trials conducted to compare the effects of tail docking in one sample of dogs with a similar sample of undocked dogs. Similarly there have been no studies that measure the initial pain and the ongoing pathological pain inflicted on docked dogs.

Due to the phenomena of deafferentation (suppression of afferent nerve impulses) and phantom limb pain, scientific regulatory bodies would not permit such inhumane research. Even without this information from specific scientific research, our current knowledge is sufficient to show the canine tail is an anatomically and physiologically important organ which should not be docked simply because tradition dictates it. Cosmetic tail docking cannot be justified medically or scientifically and recent advances in our knowledge about pain indicate that it should he regarded as an inhumane act.

CRITERIA TO TEST THE 'NECESSITY TO REMOVE OR MODIFY ANY PART OF A DOG.
The following questions proposed by Morton (1992) to test the necessity to modify or remove any part of a dog.
1. Is there evidence that leaving the dog intact predisposes them to harmful consequences?
2. Is there evidence that the interference is in the best interests of the dog and will be beneficial to the dog?
3. would the harmful consequences or the benefit occur in a significant proportion of dogs and therefore justify the
procedure on all dogs of a particular breed?
4. Does the proposed interference cause greatest harm to the dog than the damage one is trying to prevent?
5. Is there another way with no, or lesser adverse effects that would achieve the same end?
6. Does the increase in 'value' as a result of the interference justify the harm done to the dog?

ANATOMICAL CONSIDERATIONS.An understanding of the importance of the tail and the conditions to which docking can predispose is gained by reviewing the anatomy and the physiology of the tail and the pelvic region. The canine tail usually consists of 20 (6 to 23) highly mobile vertebrae largely enclosed by a very versatile musculature making the various segments, especially the tip capable of finely graded movements.

Part of the musculature is formed from muscles associated with the rectum, the anus, and the pelvic diaphragm. The tail is served by 4 to 7, pairedcoccygeal nerves. On leaving the spinal canal the branches of these nerves anastomose to form the left and right dorsal and ventral coccygeal trunks which lie on their respective surfaces of the transverse processes of the vertebrae. The dorsal muscles of the tail are direct continuations of the epiaxial musculature of the trunk. The dorsal sacrococcygeal muscles are extensors, while the sacrococcygeus ventralis later- alis and medialis muscles act as flexors or depressors of the tail. These muscles have many tendons that insert from the 5th or6th coccygeal vertebra then onto the next vertebra and so on to the end of the tail. The coccygeus, levator ani,and the inter-transversarius caudac muscles are lateral flexors of the tail.

The rectococcygeus muscle is composed of external fibres from each side of the rectum with the left and right portions fusing at the level of the 3rd coccygeal vertebra then inserting on the 5th and 6th coccygeal vertebrae. This attachment on the tail serves to support, anchor and stabilise the anal canal and the rectum, preventing them from being pulled cranially by a peristaltic wave. By its contraction, the rectococcygeus muscle can move the anal canal and rectum caudally thus evacuating faecal material (Miller 1969). The pelvic diaphragm is the vertical closure of the pelvic cavity formed by the coccygeal muscles. The coccygeal muscle originates on the ischiatic spine, extends to the lateral surface of the tail and inserts on the 2nd to 5th coccygeal vertebrae The levator ani muscle (m coccygeus medialis) originates on the ilium, pubis and pelvic symphysis, radiates upwards surrounding the genitalia and the rectum and ends on the 4th to 7th coccygeal vertebrae.

Besides helping to contain the con-tents of the pelvic cavity the levator ani muscle moves the tail cranially and laterally, presses the tail against the anus and the external genitalia, compresses the rectum and causes the sharp angulation between the 6th arid 7th coccygeal vertebrae which is characteristic for defecation. Only in carnivores does the levator muscle reach the vertebrae of the tail, thus the detri-mental effect of tail docking on the role of this muscle will be more significant in the dog compared with other domestic species.

PHYSIOLOGICAL ASPECTS.

LOCOMOTION.The tail is important as a means of counter-balance when the dog is carrying out complicated movements such as leaping, walking along narrow structures, or climbing. Tail muscles are also important in stabilising the vertebral column and supporting the action of the extensor muscles of the back as well as those of the croup and buttocks.

DEFÆCATION. Normally the rectum, anus, and anal canal are devoid of faecal material with the walls in apposition. During defecation the dog assumes a squatting position with elevation of the tail and subsequent relaxation of the coccygeus, the levator ani, and the rectococcygeus muscles. This allows the migrating contractions in the colon to push the faeces distally into the rectum with defecation ensuing. The movement of the tail during the act of defecation has a direct influence in evacuating the rectum and anal canal of the last part of the faecal bolus. The coccygeus and levator ani muscles cross the rectum laterally tending to compress the tube, while the recto-coccygeus shortens the tube. After defecation the muscles return to their normal position with oncomitant obliteration of the empty lumen. If the tail is removed from an immature puppy the muscles of the tail and pelvis may fail to develop to their full potential. Removal of the tail in the mature dog may lead to atrophy and degeneration of these muscles, in addition, if these muscles lose their distal attachments there may be a lessening of the support and anchorage of the rectum and anus. An absence of adequate function of these muscles may result in rectal dilatation, rectal sacculation and faecal incontinence.
PELVIC DIAPHRAGM INTEGRITY. Perineal hernia involves a breaching of the caudal wall of the pelvic cavity with herniation of the rectum, the abdominal contents or the pelvic contents through an opening bordered by the anal sphincter medially, the coccygeal muscle laterally and the internal obturator ventrolaterally. Any process resulting in fascial weakening,muscle atrophy, or muscle degeneration may predispose to this weakness in the pelvic diaphragm. Often perineal hernias occur secondary to medical conditions which cause tenesmus with resultant weakening of the pelvic diaphragm.

Burrows and Ellison (1989) recorded a predisposition to perineal hernia in those brachycephalic breeds, which traditionally have their tails docked, and suggested that inherent conformational deficiencies may contribute to the disease in these breeds. Canfield (1986) compared long-tailed and dockedCorgis and found that the levator ani and the coccygeus muscles did not develop fully in the docked dogs. A relationship with perineal hernia potentially exists, but she considered that further research was required before a categorical statement could be made.

ACQUIRED URINARY INCONTINENCE. Urinary incontinence in bitches caused by urethral sphincter mechanism ncompetence (SMI), is a multi factorial condition. A recent study (Holt and Thrusfield 1993) noted the increased risk of SMI developing in large breeds but it also concluded that bitches belonging to small breeds had a reduced risk and medium breeds had no increased risk.

Breeds identified in this study as having significantly increased risk of developing SMI were the Old English Sheepdog, Rottweiler, Doberman Pinscher, Weimaraner and Irish Setter. A reduced risk was demonstrated in the labrador retriever, and, although the result was not statistically significant, a low risk was observed in the German shepherd. This agreed with the observations of Arnold et al (1989).Holt and Thrusfield (1993) noted 2 consistent association between SMI and tail docking which they interpreted as an indication that docked breeds of whatever size are more likely to develop incontinence than undocked dogs of the same breed.

It is well recognised in women that the risk of developing genuine stress incontinence (GSI) is related to pelvic floor muscle damage during labour. In the bitch the equivalent 'pelvic floor' muscles are the levator ani and coccygeus muscles both of which attach to the tail base, and it is possible that these muscles are atrophied and/or damaged in docked breeds reducing urethral resistance. A similar relationship may exist between tail docking and submissive urinary incontinence in puppies. Holt and Thrusfield (1993) conclude that their results provide some evidence to support the arguments against tail docking and that it would be interesting to determine if the predisposition to urinary incontinence in currently docked breeds such as the old English
Sheepdog and Doberman Pinscher would be reduced if they cease to be docked.

COMMUNICATION AND CANINE BEHAVIOUR. The position of the tail and the way it is moved can signal pleasure, fear, friendliness, dominance, playfulness, defensiveness, inquisitiveness, aggression, nervousness and submissiveness. Thus tail docking can affect the interaction of dogs with other animals and man. Some behaviourists believe the absence of a tail may predispose a dog to show unwarranted aggression to other dogs and man, or that they may be the victim of attacks by other dogs due to their failure to communicate (RJ Holmes
personal communication) Dogs are playing an increasingly significant role as pets and companion animals. Their role in the reduction of emotion and stress related diseases in western society is well recognised, as is their important role in companion animal therapy with children, the handicapped and the elderly.

Therefore, good, clear communication with 'man's best friend' is of paramount importance and anything that may impair this communication should he avoided. Tail docking is one such thing.

PAIN Recent advances in our knowledge of pain physiology and anatomy are relevant to the discussion of cosmetic
tail docking. Pain is a feeling, a complex summation of nociceptive input, emotion and state of arousal. Physiological pain is normal, has a short duration and can be protective, but pathological pain is abnormal, is often persistent and can be debilitating and counterproductive. Pathological pain is the sensation perceived from the inflammation that accompanies tissue injury or the sensation perceived from damage directly to the nervous system. Clinically, pathological pain is characterised by one or more of the following : The presence of sponataneous pain - pain that occurs in the absence of a demonstrable stimulus.

Widening of the painful area - 'flare reaction.'
Hyperalgesia - where (the response to a painful stimulus is exaggerated)
Allodynia - where a normally innocuous stimulus is painful.
Referred pain - where the pain from injured tissues spreads to intact tissues.
Sympathetic dystrophy - a pathological interaction between the sensory and the sympathetic nervous systems.

Unlike physiological pain, pathological pain has no thresh-hold.
The nervous system is a plastic, modifiable system with a propensity for adaptation and maladaptation and peripheral and central sensitisation are the mechanisms underlying the generation of pathological pain (Dart 1994).

PERIPHERAL SENSITISATION. Nociceptors (pain receptors) are activated directly by mechanical and thermal stimuli and also by endogenous substances released from inflamed, traumatised and ischaemic tissues. Serotonin, products of the arachidonic cascade, histamine, kinins and acetylcholine are all algogenic (directly pain producing).
Prostaglandins and nor-adrenalin may not be directly painful, but sensitise the nociceptors and potentiate the effect of other algogenic substances. Substance P is secreted from the excited or sensitised nociceptors and induces vasodilation, increased vascular permeability, mast cell degranularion and production of unstored inflammatory substances. The formation of this 'sensitising soup' leads to sensitisation of adjacent nociceptors and so the vicious cycle of 'peripheral sensitisation' is set in motion. Sensitised nociceptors can become spontaneously active causing depolarisation of 'dorsal' horn neurons, and thus peripheral sensitisation is one of the phenomena involved in the development of pathological pain.

CENTRAL SENSITISATION. At the spinal cord level, the balance between the afferent stimuli reaching the dorsal horn and the degree of activity of inhibitory interneurons will determine the strength and frequency of the stimuli registering in the brain. A cascade of intracellular events is initiated and as a result identical but repeated stimuli can evoke a larger and larger response because the potentials are summated. The dorsal horn neurons become hyperexcitable this reaction is termed 'dorsal horn wind up'. The hyperexcitability of the dorsal horn neurons increases the activity in preganglionic sympathetic neurons and as a result postganglionic sympathetic efferents releasenoradrenalin which sensitises primary afferent terminals. These in turn initiate central sensitisation, which further increases sympathetic outflow and this increases afferent input. So another vicious cycle is Set in motion. Pathological pain can he seen to he the result of peripheral and central sensitisation.

INCORRECT MYTHS ABOUT PAIN. Several myths about pain have been propagated for years and form the basis on which cosmetic tail docking has been justified and allowed to he perpetuated.

MYTH 1 - Animals don't feel pain like humans. This is illogical. Anatomically and physiologically mammals (and possibly all vertebrates) have the same neural transmitters, receptors, pathways and higher brain centres. Whilst it is true that animals may show different signs of pain, we cannot deny that they feel pain in the same way humans do (Fleeman 1995). Because of the physiological similarity between mammals, it is valid to use animals, including dogs, as models for human medical research. The converse applies in that man can be used as a model for advancing veterinary knowledge. Similarity between the human and canine nervous systems means that we can assume that anything causing pain in man will cause a painful sensation of similar intensity in the dog. The pain threshold has been determined to be approximately equal in humans and animals(Fleeman 1995).

MYTH 2 - Lack of myelination is an index of immaturity in the neonatal nervous system and therefore neonates are not capable of pain perception. We know this is no longer correct, in fact the contrary occurs. Anatomical studies have shown that the density of cutaneous nociceptive nerve endings in the late foetus and newborn animal may equal or exceed that of adult skin (Anand and Cart 1989). Nociceptive impulses are conducted via unmyelinated and thinly myelinated fibres. The slower conduction velocity in neonatal nerves resulting from incomplete myelination is offset by the shorter interneuronal and neuromuscular distances that the impulse has to travel. It has been shown, using quantitative neuroanatomical methods, that nerve tracts associated with nociception in the spinal cord and brain stem are completely myelinated up to the thalamus during gestation (Anand and Cart 1989).
Further development of the pain pathways occurs during puppyhood when there is a high degree of 'brain plasticity.’ The development of descending inhibitory pain pathways in the dorsal horn of the spinal cord and the sensory brain stem nuclei also occurs during this period, therefore painful and other experiences during this period may determine the final architecture of the adult pain system.

THE PAIN OF TAIL DOCKING. Tail docking involves the removal of all or part of the tail using cutting or crushing instruments. Muscles, tendons,4 to 7 pairs of nerves and sometimes bone or cartilage are severed. The initial pain from the direct injury to the nervous system would be intense and at a level that would not be permitted to be inflicted on humans. The subsequent tissue injury and inflammation, especially if the tail is left to heal as an open wound will produce the algogenic substances, the 'sensitising soup' and the 'dorsal horn wind up' required for peripheral and central sensitisation and the development of ongoing pathological pain. Puppies are usually subjected to this pain and trauma at 2 to 5 days of age when the level of pain would he much greater than an adult would experience because the afferent stimuli reaching the dorsal horn from a greater density of sensitised cutaneous nociceptors will exceed that of the adult and the strength and frequency of painful stimuli reaching the brain will he greater because inhibitory pain pathways will not be developed.

The whimpering and the 'escape response' (continual movements) exhibited by most puppies following tail docking, are evidence that they are feeling substantial pain. Animals tend to be more stoic than humans due to an inherent preservation instinct.

Because some puppies do not show signs of intense suffering, it does not mean that the pain inflicted on them has not registered in their central nervous system. Cosmetic tail docking is most often performed without any anaesthesia or analgesia and only manual restraint is used. General anaesthesia, if used, produces unconsciousness and muscle relaxation but does not affect the sensory nerves and will not necessarily prevent 'dorsal horn wind' up or the development of pathological pain. Movement of the patient may be controlled, but sensory stimuli will still register in the higher centres of the central nervous system.

On recovery from anaesthesia peripheral and central sensitisation, the mechanisms underlying the generation of pathological pain will still he present. General anaesthesia in very young animals entails a high degree of Risk. Local anaesthesia, because of the practical difficulties of injecting into such a small area and the potential for systemic toxicosis, also has a high risk. The maximum dose of lignocaine in the dog is 5 mg/kg making use of the 2% (20 mg/ml.) solution urealistic in the average puppy up to a week of age. Use of local anaesthetics to which adrenalin has been added could increase the risk of cardiovascular and CNS problems occurring,
although some proponents of tail docking recommend the use of these solutions to prolong analgesia and to help control haemorrhage (RA Zammit in a submission prepared for the New South Wales Canine Council). Understanding the phenomena of peripheral and central sensitisation and their role in the generation of pathological pain, has changed the approach to pain management. The emphasis is now on preventing pain and treating pain
before it occurs.

About 90% of human amputees suffer pathological pain in the form of phantom limb pain. Docked dogs similarly may suffer phantom limb pain but, if their inherent stoicism masks the symptoms, this may he misdiagnosed or go undiagnosed. The currently recommended anaesthetic procedure for a human undergoing surgery where major peripheral nerves are to he severed, would involve epidural anaesthesia for 48 h before surgery and 24 h after surgery. local anaesthesia around the surgical site at the time of surgery and for 24 h after surgery.

OTHER POTENTIAL SEQUELAE FROM TAIL DOCKING. Other sequelae that may result from tail docking are :-
Haemorrhage or ischaemia. Infection, gangrene, toxaemia/septicaemia. Meningitis. Hypoglycaemia or hyperglycaemia. Amputation neuroma formation. Caudal adhesions with neurodermatitis. Deafferentation, causing loss of sensory perception from the tail. Many of these can potentially produce a state of shock which may prove fatal to the neonatal puppy.

SOME REASONS FOR TAIL DOCKING PRIOR TO THE 19TH CENTURY To produce bobtail puppies - Lamarcks theory of acquired characteristics was still widely believed and people thought the new born puppies would look like their parents. To prevent rabies - it was thought that docked dogs were less likely to develop rabies. To avoid tax - docked dogs did not attract tax. To strengthen the back and increase speed. To prevent being bitten when ratting or fighting. To make better 'sport' of bear baiting and dog fighting. These reasons from which the custom of tail docking evolved are no longer valid. (Note - Have they ever been valid?)

REASONS GIVEN TO JUSTIFY TAIL DOCKING TODAY Prevention of injury in hunting and working dogs. Most dogs in the breeds that are generally docked are kept as pets and companion animals and are never used for hunting or working. The most popular breeds used in the field or paddock are Labradors, Kelpies, Border Collies and Cattle dogs, none of which are required to have their tails docked.

Prevention of injury in short coated dogs especially those with exuberant and ebullient temperaments.
This is inconsistent because not all breeds in this category are required to be docked, for example the Dalmatianand the Labrador. The boxer is often cited a dog requiring docking for this reason, but some professional dog trainers note a difference in the behaviour of this and other traditionally docked breeds when they are left undocked and 'urge and encourage all breeders to forget about what has happened in the past and now change to keep their dogs' tails on" (Tucker 1994).

A survey in Edinburgh by Darke et al (1985) over a 7 year period showed that there was insufficient evidence of statistical significance, to suggest that there is a positive association between tail injuries and an undocked tail and that tail docking could not be recommended as a measure to prevent tail injuries in any dog population similar to the predominantly urban population surveyed.

Of the first 1000 consultations at the North West Animal Emergency Clinic in Sydney none involved tail injury
cases. Between December 1991 and September 1992 there were 2350 consultations only 3 of which involved
tail injuries. All three of these cases were related to tail docking, the first case involved 12 three day old Rottweiler pups which were still haemorrhaging 6 hours after being docked and required suturing. The other two cases involved single pups one of which was bleeding and the other had become infected (From records of the North West Animal Emergency Centre, Baulkharn Hills, NSW.)Not all tail injuries require amputation, so tail docking may be routinely performed on 100% of puppies of certain breeds as a measure to prevent injuries that would only require a bandage, some antiseptic or simply natural healing. Hygiene Dogs such as the Old English sheepdog, poodle and silky terrier would foul themselves and the average pet owner would not have the time, patience or skill to carry out proper coat care. This is inconsistent because other breeds with the same potential problem (for example the Bearded collie, Pekingese, Maltese terrier and Afghan) are not required to be docked. Regular clipping of long-haired areas and 'feathers' is far less invasive and painful than tail docking and has far fewer adverse effects. Poor breed selection, lack of education in dog husbandry or irresponsible pet ownership should not be justification for tail docking.

TRADITION OR CUSTOM Submitting dogs to a procedure known to be painful and which may have harmful consequences, just to satisfy a centuries old custom, cannot he justified in a humane society.

CONCLUSION Cosmetic tail docking cannot be justified on scientific or medical grounds. Unless pecuniary or traditional reasons are to take priority over the welfare of the animal, then the criteria to justify removal of a dogs tail are not satisfied. The tail is not merely an inconsequential appendage. It is an anatomically and physiologically sign
significant structure which has many biological functions that should not he underestimated. Tail docking can
predispose the dog to detrimental consequences including intense, initial pain and continuing pain related, neurological problems. Tail amputation should only be performed on those dogs whose tail or associated structures have been injured or where there is occult pathology of this appendage. If tail amputation is indicated as a therapeutic measure, appropriate anaesthetic and surgical techniques should be employed. The neonate is anatomically and physiologically able to and in fact does feel pain. Therefore veterinarians who wish to beseen as caring professionals and as the guardians of animal welfare must stop cosmetic tail docking and actively oppose anyone else continuing the painful practice.

Note from Lou
I am thrilled to announce that at Paws Abilities we are seeing more and more young pups who are appearing without docked tails. GOOD ON YOU TO OWNERS who have the guts to tell breeders that they don’t want their new babies MUTILATED!!! A decade or two ago NO-ONE thought that the barbaric custom of EAR CROPPING would ever be outlawed – but hey – the dog world has come a long way since those dark ages. Ear cropping is now illegal in SA and any dog imported with cropped ears is not even able to be shown at a Kennel Union of SA breed show and may NOT even enter in an obedience show – this in itself is very interesting as cross breeds and breeds of unknown origin can be registered with the Kennel Union for OBEDIENCE shows- (now we need to prohibit breeding with dogs who have cropped ears – which could still be legal under the breed Federation organisations – if anyone knows please let me know – Lou) Lets hope the Kennel Union uses some common sense and gets their act together and puts a ban on this cruel and evil practice. Things do change if we make enough of a noise about them!!!


That’s all for now folks. Please give me a shout if you have any news, views, ideas and or even complaints.
The school will be slowing down a bit over the December period – and special social interactions will be available – times to be announced. However the Puppy School is going to be open right throughout December – as puppies wait for no man (or woman!)

Oh yes “GENTLE PAWS” will have Xmas Gift Vouchers on sale soon – (priced from R50 - upwards) They will make a really good Christmas pressy for a special doggy person (and a practical one too!) Also Gentle Paws will have lots of Christmas Grooming Specials throughout the whole of December – and remember – the Parlour is open on Sunday’s and some of the Public Holidays (Please Note that bookings are essential) Contact Emma at 082-923-9317 for bookings.

Cheers for Now!
Louise Thompson and the Paws Gang!
louthomp@mweb.co.za (011) 969-4467 Mobile 082-890-0905