Paws News August 2006

PAWS NEWSLETTER JULY – AUGUST 2006:
A warm welcome to all our Paws Abilities members, friends and family. In this issue, we discuss ways to reduce one of the most annoying dog behaviours – attention seeking behaviour! We also include loads of training and behaviours tips and some fun information. Also, back by popular demand is our question and answer section.

PAWS ABILITIES TEN YEAR BIRTHDAY BASH!
OPEN DAY / FUN SHOW / GAMES AND FUN DAY:
It is now ten years since the first puppy-learning classes were given at the Paws Abilities grounds in Cloverdene, Benoni. The full dog training school and behaviour centre followed quite soon after that. After checking our records, in that time over 1800 puppies and dogs have gone through the positive reinforcement learning methods! This is quite an achievement! I would like to take this opportunity to thank my wonderful and talented trainers, without whom this would not have been possible. I would also like to thank all the fantastic, dedicated owners and their wonderful dogs who make it all worth while!

Do you have a people / dog friendly, well-socialised dog?
Come and join us for a day of fun and games at the Paws Abilities grounds.

DATE: 19TH AUGUST 2006
TIME: From 9:30 am onwards
COST: Minimum entry free (to be decided – it’s going to charity and will be a couple of rands only per head)

TELL YOUR FAMILY AND FRIENDS – THIS IS AN OPEN DAY – ALL ARE WELCOME!!!

EVENTS, GAMES AND COMPETITIONS:
Good Companion Test (commences at 9:30 AM and again at 2:30 PM)
Fun competitions i.e.
Fancy dress.
Dog/owner “look a like” competition.
The dog that can perform the best trick etc.
Fun games i.e.
Sack race (with your dog on a leash)
Egg and spoon race (with your dog on a leash)
Musical chairs etc and much more!
Fun demonstrations i.e. agility, fun obedience demonstration, puppy class demonstration etc.
Fun prizes for each event and competition
On sale – dog training equipment, dog toys and treats.
On sale – refreshments and food stales
PLEASE COME ALONG AND SUPPORT our various local charity stalls


If you don’t have a suitable dog,
COME AND JOIN US ANYWAY,
WATCH THE FUN AND GAMES AND GIVE US YOUR SUPPORT
!!! SPECTATORS VERY WELCOME !!!

For more information, contact Louise at (011) 969-4467 or Mandy at (011) 967-1158






ATTENTION SEEKING BEHAVIOURS REVEALED:
From a dogs point of view, if a behaviour is successful, (which means that the dog is rewarded for exhibiting a particular behaviour), then he will repeat the behaviour. Reward, to a dog, can be one of many things, the most important being receiving attention from his owner or pack leader! Most dogs even perceive negative attention as rewarding. Negative attention could be perceived as any response to a behaviour.

Dogs that constantly demand attention from their owners have learnt that this behaviour is successful. More often than not, the more attention they demand, the more attention the owners give – if only to keep the peace.

Attention seeking behaviour can present in many forms such as:-
Demanding to be stroked
Nudging for a stroke
Pawing
Resting his head on your lap for a stroke
Constantly demanding to be let in / out
Demanding food / water
Refusal to eat – especially in the hope of being hand fed in overindulged cases.
Begging
Vocalisation (the reward is the owners yelling “shut up”
Vocalisation when the owner is on the telephone.
Toy control
Demanding to play (with or without toys)
Demanding to go for a walk (ritualised behaviours)
Begging at the table
Physical exhibition of neurosis – to receive a response or comfort (shivering etc)
Jumping up and excitable behaviour
Some destructive behaviours.
Leash forging (pulling on the lead)
Jumping up against you to be picked up or carried.

Dogs who exhibit “attention seeking” behaviours are often insecure and over-indulged. These dogs often are suffering from stress caused by a lack of leadership – thus the basic pack responsibilities are directly on their shoulders. If a human does not provide leadership, the dog will instinctively have to take over that role. In this regard, dogs are also often receive conflicting signals from their owners – thus adding to their confusion and indirectly encouraging the behaviour – if only to receive a response. Attention seeking dogs often are low ranking individuals, given owner status that they have not earned – this also causes confusion and encourages negative behaviours and dissention in a pack.

Anthromorphisismn (crediting animals with human feelings and emotions) causes insecure, unhappy dogs.

WAYS TO REDUCE OR ELIMINATE ATTENTION SEEKING BEHAVIOUR:
Ignore negative behaviour and only reward and react to “good” or positive behaviours.
Use the “doggie time out” principles – which include – If the dog wants to be included in YOUR pack he has to abide by your rules.
Become a good leader and decision maker – do not let the dog make any decisions. This will make you more valuable, reduce much doggy stress, and make your dog feel more secure as it lifts much (decision making / high ranking) responsibilities off his shoulders.
Ensure that you initiate any contact with the dog – for example, if your dog comes and demands to play, ignore him until he stops demanding. Wait a couple of minutes and then call him for a game. In this way you have taken control, been the decision maker and rewarded the dog be encouraging the “good” behaviour to be repeated (as when he was calm and quiet – you then called him for a game)
Follow the “Dogs Boss” instructions as provided earlier.
Distraction techniques can also be fully utilised especially “startle” responses as previously described.
If the dog repeatedly jumps up against you for a stroke or to be picked up. As he starts his “routine” then without speaking or reacting, simply jump up, march out of the room, and slam the door in his face. Give it a minute or two and then return and repeat if necessary. The second the dog does not demand to be picked up, then call him to you and pick him up and give him attention. Reward only good behaviour. This principle can be followed through to reduce various attention seeking behaviours.









WHY DOES FIDO . . . ? JOHN FISHER ON CANINE BEHAVIOUR
Paradoxically, even as researchers compile study after study that proves the value of dogs to human psychological and physical health, society is placing more and more restraints on dog ownership. Many apartment complexes and planned residential developments limit or prohibit dogs, many communities ban specific breeds of dog, and some even legislate the number of dogs a family can own. The frustrations of neighbours who live near misbehaving dogs leads to emotional confrontations and new laws as local government officials try to protect some citizens at the expense of the rights of others. Two widely divergent causes lie at the core of dog problems: dogs that misbehave, and owners who are irresponsible.

British behaviourist John Fisher has spent several months in this country giving seminars to dog owners, trainers, breeders, and others with a keen interest in man's best friend so that we can understand why Fido does what he does and intervene where necessary to change the behaviour.

Fisher gave a seminar on dog aggression and related behaviours in Toledo at the end of March. He began by discussing the scientific basis of behaviour -- the chemical changes in the brain that accompany various behaviour patterns, the influence of frustration on behaviour, and the history of the development of the domestic dog that genetically predisposes particular types of dogs to particular behaviours.

Canine development
Dogs are indisputably descended from wolves, and recent research categorizes them as a subspecies of Canis lupus rather than a separate species. Although dogs now live in mixed species packs with humans and often with cats, horses, or other animals, they maintain the basic pack behaviours so invaluable for wolf survival. However, when wolves and man first became working partners thousands of years ago, early humans selected certain wolfy behaviours to accentuate when they began to develop breed types for certain purposes.

According to research by Raymond Coppinger and others, these breeds were developed from wolves whose development was arrested at a particular stage of development. Coppinger classifies wolf development in four stages:

Adolescent, in which the cubs play around the den but retreat into the den when frightened and may bite when cornered; Rendezvous and follow stages, in which the cub progresses from playing with moving objects around the den site to stalking litter mates, insects, and other critters, and then to pouncing on and biting the objects of their stalking; and adult, in which the cub joins the pack to get the experience of the hunt and kill. Dogs developed from wolves caught in the adolescent stage would never progress to the hunt and kill conclusion, so would make good guardian dogs for livestock.

Dogs developed from the wolves arrested in the object-playing stage would become the sporting dogs; those developed from the stalking-stage wolves would become the sheepherders, and those developed from the pounces and followers would become the livestock heelers.

Fisher considers Coppinger's work to provide guidelines for assessing dog behaviour and devising training programs to prevent and solve behaviour problems. He followed a brief description of Coppinger's work with a review of other studies that emphasized behaviour sequences common to many animals and simplifying behaviour to four survival strategies:
Fight, flight, freeze, and “fiddling around,-- also known as displacement behaviour.

He said that pack behaviour is a useful guide for working with dogs, but that the dominance structure tends to be flexible between animals in the household and between the humans and the dogs in the family.

Dominance is only a problem if it gets out of control, Fisher said. Other bits and pieces from Fishers seminar that can be used by pet owners: Breed and character type of the dog must be taken into account when assessing behaviour. Some dogs get relief from expressing aggression. Most aggression arises from fear -- fear that a resource is in jeopardy or that safety is threatened.

Dogs can build on the things they learn, so early socialization by breeders is necessary to produce a dog that has confidence, is adaptable, and recovers quickly from change in the environment. Dogs must be manoeuvred into a "comfort zone" between fight and flight so they can think and make decisions about their subsequent behaviour. Dogs should be praised for only for choosing the correct behaviour, not for ceasing unacceptable behaviour.

Dogs with a job are happier than dogs with an idle mind. Fisher talked briefly about the advantages of the click and treat method of raining. Fisher made great use of video-taped cases in his presentation. He described the case, then showed the tape, then explained the process of identifying and eliminating the unacceptable behaviour and replacing it with appropriate responses. His cases involved health checks to rule out medical problems, short term drug therapy when indicated, and behaviour modification.




QUESTION AND ANSWER SECTION:
Question One: When meeting a strange dog, what is the most dangerous way you can behave?
A. Grab and hug the dog. B. Slap the dog on the back and pet him/her there, too. C. Talk loudly and pet the dog on top of the head. D. Crouch down and put your face in the dog's face. E. All of the above.

Answer: E, all of the above. We should also have mentioned that "Staring at Strange Dogs" is a dangerous practice.

Question Two: You heard that a great way to exercise your pet is by having it chase a flashlight or a laser beam pointer. Is this a wise thing to do? A. Yes B. No

Answer: B. NO! Using a laser pointer is downright dangerous. As many lecturers have learned the hard way, it takes only a brief exposure of a laser beam into an eye to cause harm to vision. Most laser pointers contain warning against pointing the light toward people or animals. Since dogs and most other mammals do not have the same defensive blink reflexes to bright lights, they will tend to freeze and stare at the source of the light. This is one reason so many animals look as if they are "trapped," and stand stock still in the headlights of automobiles.

Another compelling reason not to use any beam of light with a dog, cat, or any other pet, as a way to stimulate running, chasing and pouncing, is the serious risk of instilling obsessive "searching" for the light when it is not there. We have worked with many clients with such "obsessive-compulsive" dogs. Some of the dogs would not even stop searching for the light long enough to eat!

Question Three: What mental state causes most of the behaviour problems in pet animals? A. Fear. B. Anger
C. Anxiety. D. Spite. E. Love. F. Frustration. G. Hate.

Answer: F. Frustration is at the root of nearly every behaviour problem in pets who are in 100% robust health. The cause for the frustration, in healthy dogs, is invariably found in social problems within the human/pet relationship; or in structural problems, especially in birds and exotic animals. Once the pet owner discovers and appreciates the cause(s) of the frustrations, then the anger, fear, anxiety, etc. behaviourisms, which are only symptoms of the basic problem, can be effectively cleared up. In fact, in many cases, the behaviour problems just disappear.

Question Four: The Fireworks night in November is the worst time of the year for you and your dog. Your dog reacts fearfully to explosions and other loud noises. What is the best thing to do when the first firecracker or other loud noise occurs? A. Clap your hands once, run around and find one of the dog's toys and start playing with it. Continue this until the dog loosens up and joins in the fun. If other people are there, they must also do this with you.
B. Go to the dog, pet and reassure him or her by saying "It's OK. Don't Worry." C. Give the dog a tidbit.

Answer: A, of course. You need the dog to soak up your happy emotions about the racket. Giving the dog food will usually induce copious salivation and reinforce the fearful reaction. Trying to tell the dog that his or her fear and concern are "OK," while a 'natural' human reaction, is reinforcing, too.

Question Five: Most pet owners are convinced that their animals can think. Many owners believe animals can even think like humans, in words. What is the most likely way pet dogs and cats think? A. In words, since they live with people and learn the meaning of words. B. In images, in their "minds-eye" or "mind's ear."
C. In their brain's mental computer, like a software word processor.

Answer: Probably B, but also including their mind's nose, touch, taste and smell senses. While our animals may not speak, they certainly remember the way we "sound" when say their names, give commands, look happy, sound happy, maybe even smell happy, since body odours change with moods, as do our rates of breathing, heart rates, even the way we move. Animals are far better at reading human non-verbal signals and we are.

Question Six: When training a puppy to eliminate outdoors, what is the most effective, long-term reward? A. Give the puppy a food titbit. B. Praise and pet the puppy. C. Crouch, praise and point at the pee and/or poop.

Answer: C. Crouch, praise and point at the pee and/or poop. Accompanying the puppy to its toilet area, standing quietly while he or she eliminates, then praising the result of the action immediately is more effective than rewarding the puppy directly. A personal, petting, or food, reward often causes the puppy to seek out the owner inside the house, then eliminate; while this may seem logical to many pups, it usually results in scolding or some other punishment, degrading the pup's confidence in the owner.

Question Seven: Nearly every dog owner has heard about "flight or fight" behaviour among animal, especially dogs. They are both two elements of the animal's "defence reflexes," which are reactions to serious physical threats and which may be modified by experience, especially by the way a puppy's owner handles and/or punishes them.
How many different types of behaviour are in the dog's repertoire of Defence Behaviour?" A. Four. B. Three. C. Two.

Answer: "Defensive Flight or Fight" behaviour is not the same as "Submissive or Dominant" behaviour, which are behaviours usually learned through social interactions among a maturing puppy's litter mates and later in pack life.
When dogs are faced with what they perceive as a threat to their physical well-being, especially when they experience pain, they will take some kind of action. There are three different expressions of reflexive defence behaviour:

1. "Passive," in which dogs play 'possum' and freeze, often after attempting to appease an attacker by submissively rolling onto a side or even onto their back, exposing the throat and belly.
2. "Active-fight," in dogs who will meet force with force, even if an avenue of escape is readily available to them.
3. "Active-flight," is shown by dogs that will retreat and/or run away; but, if no avenue of retreat is available, they will fight fiercely to defend themselves.

When raising any puppy it is wise never to subject them to any physical punishment, since their in-built defence reflexes are part of nature's self-preservation equipment. In wolf and domestic dog packs, life-threatening treatment of subordinate animals by alpha males and females or dominant pack members is extremely rare. Dangerous fights are more likely to occur between low-ranking individuals and usually occur at feeding times when food is scarce.

In raising puppies and handling adult dogs, it is important to remember that fear and anger are the two emotions that are stimulated by physical pain and punishment. However, fear and anger are not simply "states of mind;" they have physical, hormonal elements as well. Therefore, when a pet puppy or dog is physically punished, its body will prepared itself for defence, and the pet will experience an adrenaline surge which may trigger defensive biting.

The sorriest result of some of the popular punishment advice in books and even in videos today (scruff-shaking, muzzle-clamping, jowl-lifting, etc.) occurs after the adults in the family apply them, then an innocent child reaches for or grabs the dog's neck, face or mouth. If the dog growls or snaps, it is usually punished further by the adults, which creates a conditioned fear of the child and heightened defensive behaviour when the child again approaches, etc., etc.


LEADERSHIP BASICS
by Suzanne Clothier
There are three basic aspects to leadership:
- Control of or undisputed access to resources
- Proactive intervention
- Ability to control, direct or inhibit the behaviour of others

Behaving like a leader means that you must demonstrate – to the dogs satisfaction! – that your behaviour is that of a higher status animal. Each dog will have different criteria for what constitutes adequate leadership skills on your part. And his expectations may change considerably as he grows & matures, requiring that you also make shifts in your approach.

Directing, Controlling & Inhibiting Behaviour: From the dog’s perspective, only someone they respect has the right to control, direct or inhibit another dog’s behaviour. Turned around the other way, this means that if you cannot control, direct or inhibit your dog’s behaviour (especially at critical or highly exciting times), your dog is making it quite clear that he does not consider you higher status. In other words, he does not respect you, a clear sign that your leadership is inadequate for that dog (though it may be quite adequate for another dog with a different personality.)

Your dog will grant you precisely the respect you have earned. No more, no less. In addition, he will adjust that constantly. If you begin to act in sloppy ways, he’ll downgrade the respect. Clean up your act, and he’ll respond accordingly. You are not voted leader for life in the world of dogs – you earn the dog's respect daily. The more intelligent, confident and ambitious the dog, the more likely he is to quickly notice tiny shifts in your behaviour on any given day, and to test you and the rules regularly.

This is why when changes occur in our lives, which result in changes in our behaviour (as simple as being rushed for time to moving, changing jobs, or other bigger life shifts) prompt new behaviour from the dog - he is testing to see what the changes mean for him.

Basic training is important to help the dog understand that you can control and direct his behaviour, something you will also be teaching him through your resource control actions. However, you must earn the respect and the right to control the dog’s behaviour.

If you do not have control of the dog in non-stressful times – like meals or playing ball or even walking (pulling?) down the street, – I guarantee you he’s not going to listen to you when something he thinks important happens (like a cat dashing across your path or a jogger going by or another dog appearing on the street, the person at the door, etc.)

Practice self-control with your dog frequently, as well as basic obedience in every place you can think of, and with you in every possible position. Act like a leader, earn the respect!
Proactive Intervention: Good leaders are watchful, protective and quick to act to defend. When you are with your dog, really be with him, and watching his responses to the world around him.

Plan ahead how you will handle situations you know may be troublesome. Be someone he can rely on no matter what. If it helps, think of him as a guest at a party or family gathering who is unsure of what may be the polite or appropriate thing to say or do. If you were helping such a guest, how would you do this?

By paying close attention, anticipating situations where help may be needed, and avoiding those situations that he could not handle.

How do you know if your leadership is adequate for any given dog?
· If you can control or have access to ANY resource, without the dog challenging your right to it AND
· The dog allows you to control, direct or inhibit his behaviour in highly exciting or critical moments (quiet times with just you & the dog do NOT count; controlling the dog when a cat dashes past or someone knocks on the door or when guests comes DO count)
· IN ADDITION, Your dog trusts that you will step in if necessary to protect him from other dogs or people, and is willing to defer to you on these occasions.

If there are weak points in any of these areas, you may need to make some changes in your leadership style. One easy, non-confrontational way to gain your dog’s respect is through resource control.

Regaining Resource Control: Find out What Matters To Your Dog? Make a written list of the top 5-10 resources for your dog. This may be food, treats, toys, attention, play, special resting places, walks, car rides, etc. Hopefully you are on the list! Don’t waste your time or the dog’s by trying to control resources that don’t mean much to the dog.

What Can You Ask From Your Dog? Make a list of EVERY behaviour your dog knows – whether formal commands or tricks. From this list, you will draw your “request” of one or more behaviours which must be completed promptly, on one quiet command and executed exactly before you will provide the resource.

For access to any resource, insist that your dog “give” you something before you provide the resource. A sit or down is a basic starting point; however, as the dog’s skills allow, make the dog work harder. Put 2 or 3 behaviours together; do not be predictable! Too many folks stay with a simple sit or down, never progressing to much more demanding requests as the dog’s skills allow.

Remember how your mom got all excited when you were finally able to write your name? Well, it’s good to remember that these days folks take that for granted and expect much more from you. Asking a truly intelligent dog to merely sit is like asking Bill Gates for $100 – it’s not exactly requiring him to give something meaningful.

Making the request meaningful relative to the dog’s skills will sharpen him up - he must really concentrate and pay attention to you. Ask for any/all skills the dog has, and all the tricks he knows, and mix them up in an unexpected order. The goal is the dog’s complete attentive cooperation, not a habituated response that requires no thought from the dog.

No Grading on the Curve: Set your baseline for acceptable responses and hold tight. If you want the dog to sit within 2 seconds, then accept NO responses that are slower. Being consistent is an important part of leadership. Smart dogs will push you hard to see if you’ll accept less or slower responses – that’s what got you both into this situation in the first place!

Consistency Counts! Be relentless. Your dog views you as his leader 24 hours a day. He cannot and will not understand your annoying boss, your in-law problems or your income tax woes as the reasons for your inconsistency. He believes what you say – every time!

Too Bad! If the dog offers a wrong or slow response, you can repeat the command, try again, or even gently remind/help him, you can offer verbal praise & encouragement BUT do not provide the desired resource till he gets it absolutely right. If the dog blows you off, quietly turn away and make the resource unavailable.

This may mean putting the food bowl in the refrigerator and walking away for a few minutes before nicely asking again. It may mean walking away from the door you would have opened if the dog had played by the rules. It may mean ending the game of fetch. Try again in a few minutes to see if the dog is more willing to cooperate, but be sure YOU are the one who chooses to start again, not the dog pushing you to it.

Stay Cool: No need to be harsh, angry or confrontational. Simply draw a direct line from the dog’s behaviour to the consequence – “if you do this, this happens.” For example, you ask the dog to lie down before throwing his ball, and he refuses. Oh well – game is over; you pocket the ball and walk away for a bit (maybe just 5-15 seconds; maybe much longer; all depends on the situation and the dog's behaviour.) Take home message for the dog: “If you do not cooperate, I don’t play.”
Educate The Dog: The more your dog knows, the more ways he has to cooperate with you. Polish up his current skills, and keep adding new ones; more & more tricks, for example, gives your dog more ways to be right and earn what he wants. Training is communication, and communication is critical to healthy relationships. Besides, it’s just plain fun!

MY DOG’S RECALL IS NOT GOOD – WILL LONG LINE TRAINING HELP?
Although most owners achieve the off-leash control they want from their dogs with little difficulty, for some things do not go as smoothly. Dogs that display unwanted behaviours, such as running off to go hunting, or simply not coming back when called, have to be trained to respond to their owner's wishes. This can be a problem if the owner does not have a secure outdoor area in which to practice. Even if they do, or they train their dog at a dog-training club there is a good chance that the training will be effective in that environment but remains specific to it. The difficulty is compounded if the owner is trying to train against a more serious problem, such as aggression towards other dogs, or inappropriate chase behaviour.

Of course, training in an open area can start when a dog is on an ordinary leash but these are quite restrictive when it comes to recall training. An extending leash provides more flexibility but the time must come when the dog has made enough progress to be given more freedom if not, training cannot be developed further. The obvious answer to the dilemma is to use a long line. In fact according to the booklet 'Running Rehabilitation Groups' by Kym Lawrence, the long line is the most useful piece of equipment employed by the trainers who run these groups.

A 'long line' is normally 10 meters (30 feet) in length, which is suitable in most cases. It should not have a handle at the end or any knots in it. The type of rope used is dependent upon the size of dog but it must not be too thin because of the danger of it cutting if the dog becomes entangled in it if it
does take off. Additionally a thin line could cause an injury to the handler’s hands under the same circumstances.

If it is necessary to have a lighter line it would be better to have one that is shorter than one that is too thin.

For stronger small dogs, medium sized dogs and upwards the climbing rope you can obtain from outdoor pursuit shops is normally suitable. This also has the advantage of not rotting and drying quickly when it gets wet. It should be attached to a collar of the buckled or clip-on type that does not tighten up so as to avoid injury. It is also recommended that the line should not be attached to a head-collar because of the whiplash effect that could occur if the line suddenly became tight when a dog is travelling at speed.

The effect of a long line can be maximised if the right approach is used. You should first ensure that your dog has learnt a wait (stay) command and a change of direction signal such as "This way”. Once a good response to these commands has been established the use of the line can be introduced. To avoid developing a pulling problem ensure that the line never becomes tight.

Whether the whole length of the line is utilised from the outset will depend on the behaviour of the dog. For instance, a dog that constantly runs around herding the owner will benefit from a gradual increase in line. However, no matter what length of line is used you must avoid wrapping the line around your hands. Instead you should hold it at the length you want it to be and allow the rest to trail behind you. One reason why a good 'wait' response should be developed prior to introducing the line, is so that, should the line wrap itself around one of the dog's legs, it must be dropped immediately otherwise the dog may suffer an injury. If it is has been wound around your hand, a quick reaction is impossible. Of course, the risk of not dropping the line has to be weighed against the risks involved in letting the dog run free.

There are five stages to line training. The initial stage will be the longest to achieve but it is important not to rush the stages because this will impede overall progress.

The first stage involves introducing the line in an area without distractions, so that you and your dog can become accustomed to its use and the methods with the greatest chance of success. It is likely that your dog will try to extend the line to its fullest extent, but just before the line begins to tighten, give your change of direction signal of ‘this way’. Give the signal just before you turn away at least 90, but preferably 180, degrees from your line of travel and keep walking. Timing and consistency of movement is vital.

Don’t wait to see if your dog responds to the change of direction signal, just go. Your dog will have no choice but to follow, and when it does give it lots of effervescent praise to reinforce the correct response. When your dog catches up with you praise it by stroking and by giving it the reward of a titbit or its toy produced from your pocket.

Walking up the line can help you to develop the ‘wait’. After your dog has displayed the appropriate response to the ‘wait’ signal, walk up the line as if it is a tightrope. This will prevent your dog from moving away from you at the last moment. Upon reaching your dog, give it praise and material reward.

Once your dog responds well to these techniques and your confidence in your ability to control it increases distractions can be gradually introduced. When it has learnt to respond to your signals, even in the presence of distractions, the line can be dropped. However, keep the line within reach, so that you can control it by briefly stepping on the line a split second after a verbal signal has been given.

When sufficient progress has been made, you can change the original line for one that is shorter or cut a section off the one you have been using. Once you have done this you should go back to using the techniques in an area with no distractions and repeat the development procedure you used when the line was at its full length.

Over a period of time, (e.g. every 7 days) cut 6" from the line until the line no longer exists. Of course, the rate of progression is dependent upon progress, and you should always be prepared to take a step or two backwards if problems occur.

Some dogs seem to learn that they are under extra control if they hear two clicks, one associated with the line being put on and the other with the removal of the leash. As an extra precaution always 'double-click' you leash's 'g-clip' when you take the leash off even when you are no longer using the long line. This article is based on a booklet about rehabilitation groups written by Kym Lawrence who is a member of the APBC. It should be of interest to all trainers with a special interest in problem behaviour.


That’s all for now folks,

Please do not hesitate to contact me with ideas, news, views and any input. I would appreciate it if you could let me know what other kinds of articles or problem solving you would like to see in these little newsletters. Also, anyone experiencing any problems, be it behavioural or with regards to training, please don’t forget to give us a call – we can help!

Regards
LOUISE.
Office (011) 969-4467
Mobile 82-890-0905


DON’T FORGET TO PASS THE WORD TO YOUR FRIENDS ABOUT OUR OPEN DAY / FUN SHOW

!!!! PAWS “TEN YEAR” BIRTHDAY BASH !!!!
To be held on the 19th August at the
Paws Abilities Training Grounds:-

PLOT 72
FIFTH ROAD
CLOVERDENE
BENONI

DIRECTIONS FROM THE N12 WITBANK/.JOHANNESBURG HIGHWAY
· Driving toward Witbank - Take the Putfontein Road/Weg off ramp (it is the one after Snake Road in Benoni)
· Turn left into Putfontein Road/Weg
· Take the first road left into Third/Dierde Ave/Laan
· Take the fourth road to your right into Fifth/Vyfde Road/Weg
· Turn right into the grounds –it is the first entrance on the right hand side, just look for the big (doggy) sign.

Hope to see you all at our annual
OPEN DAY / FUN SHOW!