Paws News January 2009

“Paws Abilities” - Behaviour & Learning Centre
Newsletter Number –26 January 2009


The Paws Abilities Instructors and Staff would like to take this opportunity to wish all our valued students, behaviour clients, family members and Paws friends, a very Happy New Year and wish everyone a prosperous and peaceful new year!

There is lots of hot news and exciting events coming up in the next few months.
Firstly I would like to thank everyone who generously donated towards our building fund, for our new club-house/education centre. When the building is complete we will be in a position to use the venue for various charity events – without having to lay out extra money to hire a hall! It is SOOOOOO Exciting!!!!!

The only problem so far, is that we need to get an immediate fund raiser plan together so that we can start to pay back the building loan! Anyone got any Ideas???

Within the next month we are going to be holding a series (probably one per month) of educational video events (unfortunately no dogs) on canine behaviour and training. I will let everyone know as soon as I am able to confirm dates, subject matter, etc. Again, the cost will be kept as low as possible, so that everyone can afford to attend, and of course ALL WILL BE MOST WELCOME, so please let your friends know. Please also invite other dog training clubs etc as shared knowledge is never wasted!

By the way – The Paws Abilities events are NOT used as a recruiting platform for the school. We encourage all different disciplines and schools to brainstorm and share ideas during networking.

ALSO IN THE PIPELINE – (WITH YOUR DOGS IN ATTENDANCE)
Once the video sessions (without dogs) are over we are then going to be hosting some practical problem-solving workshops (with dogs). Booking will be essential. Again as soon as I have more information I will let everyone know.

Some ideas that members have requested as subject matter for the practical, hands on workshops (which include dogs) are :-

Clicker training – This controversial tool is often misused and misunderstood. This half day workshop will help you to learn where to start, and how to get the most out of your clicker.
Positive reinforcement training – the use of lure’s and rewards
Loose leash walking and leash manners
Dealing with dog reactive dogs / on leash aggression towards other dogs
Adolescent aggression
Solving common training problems
How to live with a hyperactive dog
Fearful dogs – how to integrate them into a dog school environment
Retrieve clinic – finding the right method for your dog – no failures! Every dog can learn to retrieve, without the use of punishment or force. Find the right method to work for your dog. Even stubborn dogs who have reached adulthood never retrieving can learn!
Agility clinic – problem solving for contact agility

Please – I need your input! Please let me know WHAT YOU WOULD LIKE COVERED in our series of practical workshops. The above have been suggested by students and friends and if you feel that you would like to cover any other subject for a practical workshop (handlers and dogs would be in attendance) drop me a line and I will add it to the list for consideration by the committee.


AGILITY TRAINING
Our New Agility class is FINALLY starting on Saturday the 7th February.
Please note that in order to accommodate the different disciplines held each Saturday. AFTERNOON CLASSES ARE TO BROUGHT FORWARD, AS FROM THE 7TH FEBRUARY.

Below are the new time slots and a brief description of the Saturday classes on offer.

There has been a lot of interest in the agility class from handlers who are currently already training in the afternoon classes, therefore the new time slots make a lot of sense, as handlers and dogs will already be on the training grounds.

The new class structure and times, will save everyone time, petrol and resources. Should you wish to enrol in our Agility class, please contact Mandy at 082495-2050 or (011) 967-1158

PLEASE NOTE CLASS TIME CHANGES BELOW
Existing Time
NEW TIME
CLASS
Instructor
08.00 AM 10.00 AM 10:00 AM
13:00 PM
13:00 PM
13:00 PM
15:00 PM
15:00 PM
15:00 PM
NEW-CLASS
Unchanged
Unchanged
Unchanged
12:30 PM
12:30 PM
12:30 PM
14:00 PM
14:00 PM
14:00 PM
15:30 PM
Early Puppy Education Group 1 & 2
Puppy 3
Introduction to Clicker Training Introduction to Obedience Training
Social Obedience Beginners Class
Obedience Elementary Beg/Beginners
Social Advanced Class
Dog Sports Class
Obedience - Novice / C
Agility Class
Louise/Maureen
Louise
Siobhan
Louise
Siobhan
Rose
Maureen
Mandy
Rose
Mandy & Louise

INCREASE IN TRAINING FEES:
Please note that as from March, training fees will increase to R180.00 per month. All new students will be required to pay two months fees in advance and a joining fee of R100.00, which includes a training booklet. Agility class is R200.00 per month, a portion of which will be put into a savings account to be used for maintenance or new equipment.

We are very aware of the prices charged by other schools/clubs, and we still offer the most diverse training and generally provide the best facilities (which we continually strive to improve). In saying that, we the instructors, would like to take this opportunity to thank each of our students for your loyal support. Without you we have no school.


MOVING / EMIGRATING / DOWNSCALING / EXPECTING A BABY???
THE DOGS HAVE TO BE RE-HOMED – OR DO THEY???

South Africans are leaving the country in droves. South Africans are also “Downscaling” – moving into clusters, and other little concrete prisons – for fear of being mugged, robbed or ……. whatever.
The cost on the family dog is horrendous and usually fatal!

There are no figures available to the public as to how many dogs are humanly killed each year at the various animal shelters who do not have a no kill policy. Some of these organisations deliberately withhold euthanasia number from the public as no doubt there would be a national outcry if the truth ever came out. I can only surmise that the numbers must be horrific.

Every day when I download email, it is usually with a heavy heart, as there are literally dozens of eager little faces in wonderful family photos looking at me.

I have listed the most common excuses I have been given for people getting rid of their dogs below, in this list I have excluded the ones who are dumped due to them having behavioural problems – although I strongly suspect that behaviour problems are among the highest cause of dog dumping.

We are moving and feel it just wouldn’t be fair to put them through quarantine.
They take their human kids with them don’t they? Or are their human children up for adoption???
It is a fact that dogs habituate to a new environment within two weeks. They will habituate to the kennels, then when back in the family environment, will also habituate to the family again!

2. We just can’t afford the cost
But they just sold their house for over a million rands in Sandton and also all their possessions???

We are downscaling and the garden does not lend itself to a dog
OK a smaller garden – ever heard of taking a dog for a walk!!!!! What they really mean is that the dog is a nuisance and messes up their garden when left for alone in its concrete jail whilst the owners jol and work long hours – as they don’t want the responsibility (the novelty/ fashion statement has now worn off)

We are having a baby and wont have time for a dog?
Did they not intend to have a baby when they got married? Give me a break!!! Are they all so ignorant that they don’t know of the various programmes that prepare an existing dog for the arrival of a new human baby?
Again this is just an excuse – on looking more carefully – there is usually another angle to the story, dog is destructive, naughty, etc – a nuisance and they don’t want to be bothered any more!

Whichever way you look at it – all of the above is just a bullshit excuse to get rid of a pet that has either outlived its usefulness, or has become a nuisance, or something that the novelty has worn off and is now just a possession – or has lost its puppy appeal and they have realised that owning an adolescent or adult dog actually requires a bit of effort!

Generally – IT IS A BLOODY COP OUT!!! People take the easy way out – and I for one, am sick and tired of it. I am also sick and tired of these sub-humans trying to emotional blackmail me – I have now just about HAD IT!

I have had numerous owners who usually all me AT THE LAST POSSIBLE MINUTE before they are due to leave the country – (expecting me to be sympathetic) and, basically try to emotionally blackmail me into taking on their dog - and if I don’t “make a plan” they will take the dog and have it euthanised. Well you know what – I refuse to take on their guilt. I am also at the stage where being polite is becoming more and more difficult!

Just because they were so bloody irresponsible and left it till the last minute - when in reality it is an impossibility to find a home in such a short space of time. They must not put their hump on my back. I am not playing this game any more– oh no! I truly wish that I could make each and every one of these people take responsibility for their own mess!

I wish I could force them to have to hold their own dog whilst a Veterinary Nursing Sister, Animal Welfare Officer or a Veterinarian sticks a needle in its vein and kills it. I wish I could make them watch and listen and feel the guilt that the person who is performing the deed must feel.

Welfare agencies agree that the average age that people appear to “dump” their dogs is the difficult “teenager stage” (6 to 18 months) when many pups are at their most unmanageable / difficult stage of behavioural development. Most of these dogs who end up at shelters who do not have a no-kill policy will be killed by lethal injection! Lets face it, we all know that there are just not enough homes!!

The numbers are now alarming. The no kill shelters are FULL!! All the shelters are FULL in fact OVERFLOWING. In some of the no-kill shelters - some dogs have been kennelled for months and in some cases YEARS!

If a dog is handed over to a shelter that does not have a no-kill policy, legally they are entitled to euthanase it whenever they want to – usually it is when the shelter gets too full. Holiday seasons must be tragic. It is obvious that many dogs never make it out ……………..

I would like to APPEAL to everyone to make it their lives mission to DISCOURAGE friends, family, acquaintances NEVER TO BUY FROM pet shops, back yard breeders, the flea market, the junk mail, and even not to buy unregistered purebred dogs!

WHY?
Because by buying from places and people listed above YOU ARE ENCOURAGING irresponsible breeding, the terrible conditions found in most puppy mills/farms and actively boosting their trade. Where do you think most pet shops get their “stock”??? Even if it is a good pet shop, clean and well kept – where do the pups come from. They have to buy somewhere and a reputable breeder would NEVER let their offspring be sold in a pet shop!!! In the next issue I will put in an article regarding what is a reputable breeder.

Even if you buy from an acquaintance that just “had a litter”, you are encouraging their irresponsibility in not having their pet sterilised.

FOR EVERY DOG PURCHASED FROM A PET SHOP OR BREEDER – A DOG IN A SHELTER IS KILLED!
WHY BREED OR BUY WHILST THE HOMELESS DIE!

A RAY OF SUNLIGHT AT THE END OF THE TUNNEL
How I Wish ALL Pets Were Lucky Enough to Have Such Wonderful Owners – I live in eternal hope!!!

THE JONKER FAMILY ARE MOVING - AGAIN!
This time we are packing for the move Down Under – to Melbourne, Australia. Packing up your earthly possessions and pulling out the roots is not for the faint hearted. And you quickly realise that this is the most life changing decision you will ever make.

We decided that I would stay in South Africa until the end of January 2009 to complete my studies and to pack up and wrap up our affairs in South Africa while Riaan left for Australia a few months ago.

As we were not granted relocation allowance we had to work according to a tight budget, but on top of the list was Harry and Thomas’ quarantine cost. Jip, the two four-legged family members are coming with on this whirl-wind adventure to a kingdom far, far away!

Checking the basics
Australia requires a quarantine period of 210 days (approximately seven months). Dogs are required to spend a minimum of 90 days (three months) in South Africa at any of the two approved quarantine stations: Kookaboora in Pretoria or Keringa Kennels in Kempton Park.

Dogs are required to spend a minimum of 30 days (one month) in Australia at any of the approved quarantine stations in Perth, Melbourne or Sydney. The remaining 90 days may either be spent either in South African or Australian quarantine station. The total number of days in quarantine should be 210 days.

Dogs should be living in the country of origin for at least six months before being imported into Australia. So there is no way of getting around the 210 days quarantine. Not even by shipping them via Canada to Australia unless you intend to take a six month vacation with the dogs to Canada…

Checking the quarantine station and quote
I obtained the contact details of Keringa and Kookaboora from the Internet, phoned them and made an appointment to visit the quarantine station one Saturday morning.
I was greeted by the friendly staff and they took me on a guided tour of the kennels and explained in detail how the microchipping and blood testing worked and how the dogs would be transported from the quarantine station and be loaded on the aircraft by the quarantine personnel themselves.

The quotation from Keringa Kennels was in my Inbox by Monday morning. The quote includes accommodation, food, microchipping, cost of all blood tests, import and export permits, travel containers and travel charges. The quote contains the South African quarantine charges for 90, 120 or 180 days. We chose the 90 day option and this amounted to just under R40 000 (inclusive of travel costs). Once you accept the quote it is valid for 30 days provided that your dog is admitted into quarantine within those 30 days.

Ready….
This would however not be the case as the first available date that Harry and Thomas could start quarantine was on 23 March 2009. The quarantine stations are extremely busy but I requested that Harry and Thomas be put on a waiting list.

The call came on 14 November 2008 to inform me that Harry and Thomas could commence their quarantine period of 90 days on 2 December 2008. Their vaccinations had to be up-to-date, so a trip to the vet was put on the to-do-list. Keringa sent me all the necessary paperwork including the updated quote (which was only R1 000 more than the original quote as the import permit charges increased) and a Pet Information sheet. The Pet Information sheet required me to tell Keringa all the nitty-gritty details of Harry and Thomas – their temperament, how often and how much they eat every day, if they are taking any medication, if they are allowed to eat Hills Maintenance dog food or whether I require that they be fed something else, how often they are groomed….

All set
The last weekend with Harry and Thomas consisted of various outings. Saturday I took them to the doggy parlour and they came back two sexy studs.On Sunday it was a visit to my Mom, who usually looks after the dogs when we go on holiday. Harry fell into “nobody-loves-me” mode as he thought I was going to leave him with Mom. On Monday he was still feeling very sorry for himself but after taking him for his daily trip around the block all tension subsided. Looks like endorphins make dogs feel better too!

They went ballistic when I loaded their sleeping baskets in the car on Tuesday morning and were on the back seat in a flash. I took along their leashes, food and water bowls. But none of that was necessary as Keringa provides it all.

We arrived at Keringa shortly after 8 AM and the dogs stayed in the car while I handed over all the completed paperwork and their vaccination records. The handlers were summonsed and we went to fetch Harry and Thomas. Harry shook like a leaf at first but when he had the leash on he regained all his confidence. I walked with them to the kennel (the size of half a single garage with three pre-cast walls and a front gate), went inside and they followed. I told them to be good boys and with tears in my eyes left them behind, in a place I thought that would take their spirits away.

Still on the GO
But how very, very wrong I was proved to be….
I am only able to visit Harry and Thomas on Saturdays as I work full-time during the week. I set up my visiting times from 11 – 12 on Saturdays and during the week I phone the Kennel Manager, Collin, at least once.I arrived for my first visit on Saturday 6 December 2008. And what a surprise!
Their bedding was stacked on top of the kennel, the kennel was clean (they are washed every day) and a large bowl of water was in the corner. But the dogs were nowhere to be found…

However, Collin led me to a private “garden” – a walled area of about 5m x 5m with a Wendy house, green grass and a big water bowl – where Harry and Thomas eagerly awaited at the gate.
As soon as the gate opened they were all over me, barking and jumping and were so excited to see me. A word of advice though – don’t go all dressed up or with plans to go the mall afterwards – unless you can create a new “paw-print” fashion craze. Harry, having his self-image shattered by robbers in 2006, has regained his confidence and Thomas was all sparkling-eyed.

It is believed that a dog’s perception of time differs from human’s and they are equally glad to see you whether you left them for 5 hours or 5 weeks. Harry and Thomas each received a doggy treat (you can bring your own or buy at reception) and we bonded for one full, undisturbed, hour. When it was time to say goodbye, the obediently sat on the porch of the Wendy house as if to say: “OK, cheers, see you next week!” But this time I left with the absolute comfort that they are receiving the best five-star treatment.

I would encourage all dog owners to make their dogs part of the relocation process. From my experience it is harder on the owners to see their dogs in the kennels. Believe me, 210 days fly at the speed of light and when you look back it would be a blip in their life cycle that would make all the difference.

Should you have any queries please feel free to contact me at leana.jonker@rmb.co.za until the end of January 2009 or after that date on riaan.jonker1@hotmail.com


KENNEL CARE VS HOME-ALONE CARE
(INCLUDING HOW TO PREPARE YOUR DOG FOR KENNELS AND QUARANTINE

HOME-ALONE CARE
It is generally not a good idea to have a friend or neighbour pop in daily to care for your dog when you are away.

For one thing, most people are not experienced enough to be able to spot illness timorously. For example, Billary fever, a disease presenting with symptoms of anaemia, lethargy and listlessness. In the latter stages, the dog exhibits a lack of appetite.

Lack of appetite is often confused with the dog pining for his owners! Billary if left untreated can be fatal! If you decide on home care, a better option would be to get a responsible, full time house sitter, (someone who possesses animal-experience and knowledge).

I must add, that dogs suffering from noise phobias, who are thunder phobic, or suffer from sound sensitivity should never be left home alone! These dogs are more likely to present a danger to themselves and others. They are the dogs that often escape in panic when their owners are away, get run over on the roads during a storm, and end up as strays in animal shelters.

THINGS TO THINK ABOUT
Ø The dog should have adequate shelter from the elements. Ideally, if it is an inside dog, a doggie door with access to a secure room with a safe place/bed should be provided. It may be necessary to block off an open- plan kitchen, or make some other suitable arrangement.

Ø Do not change the dogs’ usual access to the house. Do not suddenly dump a house-dog in the garage – he will stress! Stress = noise pollution. One of the most common problems with dogs left “home – alone” whilst their owners are on holiday is noise pollution. Noise pollution = neighbour complaints!

Ø Clean water must be available at all times in a spill-proof dish. If all else fails, a washing up bowl wedged into a motor care tyre works well.

Ø The dog should be protected from external parasites with a long acting tick and flea preparation (available from your veterinarian). He should also be protected against biting flies (in the summer months). All these products are available from your veterinarian.

Ø The property and environment where the dog is to be confined should be completely escape proof.

Ø Do not leave the dog/s wearing a check chain, or a slip collar. If it gets stuck on a branch or fence, your dog could strangle himself! Leave him wearing flat collar, in which you can fit at least three fingers in to ensure it is not too tight.

Ø Anything dangerous in the environment must be removed, or made “safe”. Any poisonous substances need to be locked away. Contents of the garage need to be made safe. Spikes on any gates will need to be taped. Care needs to be taken if you own elderly dogs. They sometimes get disorientated and if you have a swimming pool, could fall in and drown...

Ø You will need to provide the dogs with an abundance of chew items. Leave an abundance of non-synthetic objects for him to vent on. Items such as cow hooves, pigs ears, etc. If you own several dogs, you should also consider any potential aggression that could occur in your absence. Stress can make aggression worse. If you are in any doubt, then rather kennel the dogs.

Ø Matters of hygiene need to be considered. Your house sitter must be prepared to “scoop the poop” at least once a day. This is to prevent an increase in flies for the duration of your absence

Ø Make sure that all your dogs have nametags on their collars. The nametags should clearly state the sitter’s contacts (as you will be away). Just in case of an accident and he manages to escape – he can be returned and not risk being at a welfare for a week and then being re-homed

Ø Lastly provide your sitter with all your relevant veterinarians’ numbers including an emergency hour’s numbers.

KENNEL CARE
Before choosing a boarding kennel, you should get plenty of referrals.
A good place to start is your local veterinarian. Groomer’s, friends (with good experiences), dog trainers etc. View the kennels well in advance, preferably NOT in the “off season”, as, when they are busy it will provide you with a better idea of how they cope under pressure. A visit prior to kennelling will also provide you with insight of their routines and the general care that they provide.

If a referral is not possible. You should look for kennel that is a registered member of the Pet Boarders Association. The organisation has a Code of Ethics, which provides the public with a certain amount of protection.

PREPARING YOUR PUP FOR A KENNEL STAY
THE SAME APPLIES WHEN PREPARING A DOG FOR QUARANTINE!

Book well in advance. Good kennels are often booked up long before the holiday season.

In an ideal scenario, you should prepare you dog or pup well in advance. Start to visit the kennel for short social visits. Do this regularly up to a month or two before leaving your dog there. Take his favourite toys. Play games with him. Play ball, pop treats, etc. Anything that you can do which will provide the dog/pup with a positive association to the environment. This will ensure that when he is actually left at the kennels, it will not be such a culture shock.

The next step would be to book him in for a morning stay. Once this is successful, the next step would be to book him in for a one-day stay. Thereafter, you could then book him in for a trial weekend. Ensure that you obtain feedback from the owners and staff as to how he coped.

Before booking in, protect your dog from any possible parasites by using a long acting tick & flea preparation. You should also provide the staff with a preparation to repel biting flies. Both products are available from your veterinarian.

Inform staff of any special diet that your dog requires. Realise that this could affect the price of his stay.

Depending on his length of stay, your dog might need additional exercise. Make sure this service is provided by the establishment. If you are only going away for a couple of days, it is not an issue. In addition (for short-term stays), if the dog is stressed, he will probably feel more secure if he is confined to a smaller area.
Only be concerned about adequate exercise if you are away for a longer period. However, it is important that you confirm this with the staff. Some kennels provide wonderful escape proof, exercise areas. If your dog is a “jumper” or expert escape artist, please inform staff. This could be critical to ensure your dogs safety.

TAKE A DOG HOLIDAY PACK for your dog.
Take a piece of your clothing to leave in his kennel. The clothing should have your scent on it. This will help your dog/pup to feel less abandoned in the kennel, and aid in providing him with feelings of security.

Take lots of stuff for him to chew. Take along his favourite toys and non-synthetic chews to vent on. (pigs ears, cow hooves, etc.) You can even provide the staff with some yummy fillings for them to pack inside the hooves. Peanut butter, Bovril, whatever … All of this will aid in relieving boredom, reducing stress and providing him with something to occupy himself with in your absence.

Do take his own bed and bedding.

DON’T FORGET TO LET STAFF KNOW THAT ….. you don’t care if his bedding, toys, or other items are destroyed, chewed up, or peed on. If you don’t let them know staff will often whisk them away, to make sure they are presented to you when you collect your dog – clean and in one piece.
TEACHING YOUR DOG TO DO TRICKS
It can be great fun for family and friends to see your dog performing tricks. It is also another way to give your dog some added mental stimulation, getting your “best friend’s” old “grey matter” to work a bit more!

Everything taught in this little booklet uses the principles of positive reinforcement and to make it a bit easier for owners/handlers I have added the use of a conditioned reinforcer as a form of praise. A conditioned reinforcer is
a marker that tells the dog, "You’re right – I am pleased with you!" I have proved that it makes no difference if the “marker” is a word, a noise, a clicker or some other sound. In all cases, the same basic principles of positive reinforcement apply. However, the clicker certainly makes it easier and the human reaction time seems to be better when using the clicker.

A conditioned reinforcer word:
To teach a conditioned reinforcer word you must first choose a marker word (Choose a word that you are not likely to use in everyday conversation like "yay" or "YESS or Yippee!"),

To make a conditioned reinforcer sound: You can use a clicker, A tongue cluck. A lid from a Snapple bottle works, A ballpoint pen clicking on and off. Remember it must always be the same, sound the same and immediately be followed by a reward – EVERY TIME!

To teach the dog that the marker means reward,
(A reward = a food treat is coming), sit in a quiet place with a handful of dog treats. Make the sound and then pop a treat/feed immediately.

Repeat about 10 times. Then ask the dog for a behaviour that the dog knows really well and can already perform
reliably, such as “Sit”.

Give him the command, "Sit," and then mark the behaviour with your special sound and immediately pop him a treat/feed. To be effective, you must feed every time you use the mark.

It is important to be patient when teaching your dog any new behaviour’s. If your dog appears to be a bit slow, or
isn't doing what you want it to do, give the dog time to learn. If you become frustrated, stop training before you loose your cool and do any damage, and start again later or the next day. Make you are training make sessions fun -- for both you and your dog.

Most dogs can learn most of the tricks described here. A few dogs will be able to learn all of the tricks. The easiest tricks to teach are those that take advantage of the natural behaviour of the dog.

For example.
Dogs that like to bark can learn to "speak" easily.
Dogs that naturally extend their paws and use their feet
can easily be taught to "shake hands."
Some dogs have good balance and can "sit up” which is
an almost instinctive behaviour (depending on shape and size)
Others lack this balance and can never do this trick successfully, no matter how hard they try. Usually
this is due to the individual animal’s conformation or the way
its body is put together.

Get to know what “turns your dog on”. Know your own dog’s abilities, physical confirmation limitations, work with it and give him a chance to learn.

If the dog does not catch on at first, do not give up; keep trying. If your dog cannot do something even though it tries really hard to please you, rather quit or give up before the dog become frustrated and you loose your temper and spoil what was already learnt. It would be a good idea at this time to quickly move on to another exercise or trick or onto something else that the dog is good at.

Shake hands.
With your dog in the “Sit” position, reach down and take hold of its right paw with your right hand and gently lift his paw slightly.

Tell your dog "Shake!" as you do it. Lift his paw until it is level of the dog's chest and then shake it gently just as though you were shaking a humans hand in greeting. Immediately mark the behaviour, reinforce and pop his treat with lots of praise. Repeat at least six times a day for a few days, then just try reaching out for the paw, but do not take it.

If the dog lifts its paw, take it and shake it gently, marking, reinforcing and then praising. Keep up the praise. You can encourage this behaviour by holding a treat tightly cupped in your hand. Some dogs will paw at your hand.
Mark the behaviour and reward. Alternatively, put a piece of tape on the bottom of your dog's foot…. the dog will probably lift a paw to get rid of the tape. Mark the behaviour as dog lifts a paw followed by immediate praise/reward.

Wave.
This is a variation of "shake hands." Wave at the dog; be sure to use a signal that is unlike any that you use
in obedience training or any other activity or command. At the same time, tell the dog, "wave." You can encourage this behaviour by gently touching the dog's paw with your right hand as you wave with your left and say, "wave."

Roll over.
Make learning this trick a game. Get down on the floor with your dog and wait until it is lying on its side. Put one hand in the middle of its back, your other hand under its chest and shoulders. Tell your dog "Roll over!" and turn it gently over as you do so. When it is over, mark the behaviour, followed by immediate praise/reward. Do this three or four times a day. Once the dog gets the idea, cut down on your assistance until the dog is doing it on its own. Keep up the praise.

An alternative method is to lure the dog over by using food held just about an inch from its nose. Once the dog is over, mark the behaviour, followed by praise and the food reward.

Roll over and Play “Dead”
Teach the “roll over” as per the previous section.
Once the dog is able to perform it on command, then simply add the word “bang” with an accompanying hand signal,
preferably your hand and finger pointed at him in the shape of a gun.
It does take a bit of time to get the dog to associate the pointed gun-finger (which is in fact a hand signal) with the verbal command “bang” but after a few repetitions per day most dogs “get it” quite quickly.

The next step is to start rewarding the dog for speed. The quicker he drops and rolls over the better treat he gets and the verbal praise is more exuberant.

Gradually start making your voice more exciting and a little bit sharper. Make sure that you pop the treat as soon as he is in position. After some time you will find that the command “bang” accompanied by the gun hand / pointed finger is all that is needed.

The next step is to get him to “wait” in the “dead” position for a second or two. Initially you can hold him in the position for a second or two with the food treat, whilst repeating the word “wait”. Pop the treat in his mouth with the words (to reinforce the position) “good wait”. Gradually over a period of time, make him wait longer and longer – up to about 10/20 seconds for effect! Some dogs do this so well it has been used in the movies and it becomes quite a clever party trick.

Sit up & Beg.
Sitting up is an entirely unnatural position for a dog, so it will have to be helped at first (a few dogs can never physically perform this trick – think of the dog’s conformation).

To start, sit it in a corner, facing out. Tell your dog "Sit up!" and lift it gently with your hand on dog's chest until dog is in an erect sitting position. Keep it there a few moments, and then put one finger under dog's chin to help your dog keep its balance. Repeat the command, hold the dog there for a few seconds, and then let it down. Mark the behaviour, praise and pop the treat. Repeat this six times a day until the dog will stay without your help once you have got him up. Then keep working on this trick until the dog goes up by himself.

Caution:
Do not hold the dog in a sit-up position too long – especially in the beginning. It can hurt or damage the dogs back before the muscles get a chance to become accustomed to this exercise. If this happened, the dog will become
discouraged (as he would be physically uncomfortable) and will not want to do this trick.

IMPORTANT: Do not perform this trick with puppies.
Dogs need to be mature and their orthopaedics fully formed before they are physically stable enough especially with large breeds. Performing this exercise, prior the bones being fully formed may result in permanent damage! Other breeds that SHOULD NOT be taught this exercise are Dachshunds, Basset Hounds and any other long bodied shaped dogs. Due to the abnormal length of their bodies, it can cause spinal injury and even permanent damage. It could also exasperate any genetic back/spine problem often seen in some of these breeds.

Catch.
The best time to practice this trick is just before mealtime when the dog is hungry. Stand close in front of your dog and toss it small bits of food, saying, "Catch" as you throw them. What the dog catches it will eat. If the dog does not catch it, be quick and remove the bits of food so the dog is not rewarded for missing the “catch”. Most dogs “catch on” (excuse the pun) really quickly and will get the idea that the more treats he catches, the more treats they gets to eat.

Especially in the early stages of learning, try to make it as easy as possible for the dog to catch the food you throw. You can increase the distance and/or make it more difficult later. Rather try to ensure that the dog does not fail in the beginning. Popcorn, without salt or butter, is good for teaching this.

Say Your Prayers.
Select a chair in the house for your dog to use. Make sure that the chair is heavy enough so it will not slide when the dog leans his weight against it. The chair should also be just high enough for your dog to rest its forepaws on comfortably.

Take your dog to the chair and sit the dog in front of the chair. Give the command, "Say your prayers." As you do this, simultaneously lift its front feet and place them on the edge of the chair and gently lower the dog’s chin, until the chin is resting on his paws. Soothe your dog with kind words as you do this whilst you gently hold the dog in the position a few moments and then release with much praise. As with all other tricks it is simply, a matter of repetition until the dog gets the idea and performs the trick on its own.

One difficulty with this trick is the placement of the head. Holding the head in a certain position is something quite foreign to dogs and it may take many repetitions before the dog understands this particular part. Keep at it with patience and praise until your dog catches on. Obedience training in the "stay" is helpful here. Don’t forget to mark the behaviour, praise and pop a treat.

Bring the newspaper.
Here tricks come into the area of usefulness because it can be quite handy to have your dog bring the evening newspaper, your shoes, or whatever you happen to want but are too lazy or tired to get up and get yourself.

Once your dog has learned the basics of getting and bringing to you any one thing, it can be taught to identify a number of items by name and thus be taught to bring each and any of these items to you on command.

First, the dog must learn the simple retrieve.
Without the necessity of going into the regular full obedience retrieve, you can get the idea across to your dog by simply playing ball. Throw a ball and let your dog bring it back to you in play. Go on from this to throwing a stick, a rolled-up newspaper, a glove, or any item small enough for your dog to carry but large enough so that he wont be able to swallow the item. When the dog is carrying things happily for you, give your dog a newspaper to carry. Give him the command, "Bring the paper" or "Fetch the paper" and encourage your dog to bring it to you.

At first, you will need to go outside with the dog to encourage it to pick up the paper and bring it in. Take the paper from the dog when it gets inside. Then give the dog lots of praise and a treat.

After about 10 days or so, the dog will be getting the idea and you can stand at the door and tell it to get the paper. Whenever the dog does go out and brings back the paper, be sure to praise a lot. Note: if your dog is likely to run
away when off lead, do not try this trick.

When you want your dog to bring anything other than the paper, you will have to work with the dog on each item providing each item with a name, which should always said in the same voice, with the same accompanying body language and reward. Remember to always be consistent! It will not take as long to teach, but you must be patient. I once had a student who owned a Bullterrier puppy who at the age of five months could differentiate over 20 different names of object/toys on command! So it can be done! At first, the dog will be confused so be sure to praise. If you tell the dog "no" and act angry, it will think you are upset because it brought you something. The dog will not understand that it brought the wrong thing.

Crawl.
To teach your dog to crawl, you need a chunk of its favourite food. Tell the dog to lie down. Place your left hand over but not touching his back. Hold the food in your right hand, out a foot or two in front of its face.

Tell your dog "Crawl" and start slowly moving the food away. If the dog starts to stand up, gently help it back down
with your left hand and command "Crawl" again. Repeat several times a day. When the dog actually crawls, even two or three steps, mark the behaviour, praise simultaneously whilst giving him the treat. Eventually he will get the idea that it must crawl a little way before it gets a treat.

“High Five”
This trick can be taught with or without a marker, either using the basic principles outlined in the rest of this booklet or by following an alternative method set out below.

First, start out with your dog in the SIT position facing you. Now, with your dog sitting in front of you, gently tickle the hairs on one of the dog's front paws.

THIS PART IS CRUCIAL: As soon as your dog's paw moves, praise your dog and give a treat. It's important to praise and reward your dog immediately ....even if the paw just barely moves. Now repeat this process quickly until your dog starts to pick up the same foot ... without you tickling the hairs. (It might take a few repetitions, but your dog will get the hang of it.)

Next, you want to keep praising and rewarding, him every time the paw comes up ...but gradually withhold your praise
until his paw comes up a little higher each time. Your goal is to have your dog's paw come up about chest high. (..Your dog's chest, that is :-) Once he raises the paw to chest height CONSISTENTLY, add the command "high five" just before rewarding and praising ...while the paw is in the air.

So if you were to map this out in your dog's mind, the "timeline" for this trick would look like this:

COMMAND ---> DESIRED BEHAVIOUR ---> REWARD

It's pretty simple, really.

I MUST ADD THAT ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE EASIER IF THE DOG IS ALREADY AT LEAST PARTIALLY EXPOSED TO SOME BASIC DOG SCHOOL OBEDIENCE

Great Ad for Good Dog Schools!!!!


PARENTS HELPING KIDS TO GET THEIR DOGS TO BEHAVE
Often the parents of children will get a dog – not because they particularly like dogs, but because the feel the children should have one. It then, is often the children who are left with the responsibility of caring and training the pet and trying to sort out the behavioural problems.

PARENTS!!! - Please help us reduce the amount of unwanted dogs who end up at shelters OR WORSE! Don’t let your dog become another statistic. The following will provide you with some ideas to help young kids deal with some of the basic problems.

CHILDREN - IS YOUR BEST FRIEND ALWAYS IN TROUBLE? Does this look familiar? Does your dog get into trouble? Are your parents frustrated with your best friend? Do you know what to do? It's important to know that your dog is not trying to cause problems. He is just doing what comes naturally to a dog. YOU have to help him learn new ways to entertain himself.

To understand your dog’s point of view and to help your dog behave, try these three suggestions. Pretend to be a dog by getting down on your knees and looking around your house. What do you see? Are there things on the floor that would be interesting and fun if you were a dog? How about shoes, pencils, paper clips, clothing, slippers, etc.? What you should do. Pick up all objects from the floor and put them where they belong, or put them in a closet and shut the door.

Look around your house. Do you see a door that is open? What is on the other side of that door? Is it a cupboard or
wardrobe or play room with lots of cool things on the floor? Or is it a bedroom with sweet-smelling socks that are easy
to reach?

What you should do. Close all doors that could lead to trouble. The best thing to do is close all doors except for the room you are in. If your dog is having behaviour problems, he should be supervised at all times.

Trash the rubbish. Where does your family keep the dustbin/rubbish bin? Check the kitchen, bathrooms, bedrooms,
and yard.

What you should do. All rubbish needs to be put away. Indoor rubbish bins should be put under sinks and in closets or cupboards. If a rubbish bin cannot be put away, it must have a lid. It's natural for your dog to want things that smell good, taste good, look good, and feel good. It doesn't matter whom it belongs to.

· Getting your dog some tempting items that are especially for dogs is a good thing to do. If he has his own things, he can be directed to them when he needs something to do.
· Toys that are smooth, furry, fuzzy or funny can be interesting. You can throw them or hide them. You can let your dog chew on them or you can put them in the water. What else can you think of?
· Large bones that are real, made of plastic, and are unbreakable can smell and feel good to your dog.
· Use 'Interactive' toys when your dog is bored or when you are not home. They allow your dog to play and have fun. Interactive toys like Food Cubes. Fill them with treats and watch the fun begin!
· Rugga Toys or a Kong. You can throw it and it will bounce funny. But you can also fill it with food and have fun watching your dog try to get it out. You dog will have fun, too!
· Toys that give your dog something to do are well worth the money that they cost.

Who’s the Boss? Dogs need structure in their lives. They need rules. They want to know who the leader is. If it is not clear who the leader is, your dog will appoint himself. A dog that thinks your house is his house, needs supervision, even if he is older. It is only natural that a dog who doesn't know the rules, will make up his own. Let your dog know what is allowed, in a clear and gentle manner. Getting up on the table is not where dogs should be, no matter how funny it is. Jumping on the couch is only cute if your mom and dad allow your dog to do that. Some people do, some people don’t.

Rules must be clear to your dog. If you can't make up your mind, for example you let your dog on your bed sometimes, but not other times, he will be confused. Make rules and stick to them. Everyone in the family needs to know the rules and help your dog to remember them. This is called 'being consistent'. Being consistent means everyone doing something the same way, over and over again. If you catch your dog doing something wrong, don’t scold him or be cross, rather quietly move him away from the activity by gently leading him by the collar, or putting a leash on him, or calling his name. Then direct him to a different activity.


TEACHING YOUR DOG/PUPPY TO “SIT”
WHEN HE IS GETTING “DRESSED”

When you are about to take Fido for a walk, there is nothing more frustrating than owning a dog who leaps and bounces off the ceiling, becoming totally uncontrollable in his excitement at the prospect of going out for a walk! This certainly dampens many owners enthusiasm for walks, and makes the prelude to “walkies” a nightmare!

This excitable, uncontrolled behaviour is totally unacceptable, but fortunately is easily solved with a bit of practice, patience, and most important CONSISTENCY!

Ideally, this particular bad habit, should never have been allowed to develop in the first place!.
From the first time a young pup has his collar fitted, he should be made to “Sit” still whilst it is put on and the leash clipped on. This sounds very easy and indeed it is. By following a few simple rules below you will be amazed at how quickly good habits develop!

Use a collar that is quick and easy to put on and take off. Buckle collars are clumsy and difficult to work with. A quick-release, webbing collar is probably the easiest, as it has a plastic clip that is very easy to use and very user friendly.

All dogs and pups should permanently wear a “house collar”, with the dog’s name, address, and your contact telephone number on it. This can be in form of a name tag or it could be written in permanent marker, on the inside of his collar. This is vital, and a way to increase your chances of getting your beloved pet back if he ever strays.

Never leave your dog or puppy unsupervised if he is wearing a collar that can tighten, (such as a half check or full check/choker chain). This is very dangerous, as it could become caught on something and the dog/pup could choke which could result in death by strangulation!

Only leave him in a buckle type, or quick release flat collar, and even then you should make sure that it is loose enough for him to wriggle out of if he did become stuck on something, thus avoiding a tragedy! You should also make sure that if your dog/pup is ever confined in his dog crate / mobile indoor kennel, that all collars and leashes are removed – again this is to ensure safety in the crate.

HOW TO DEVELOP THE “GOOD” COLLAR AND LEASH HABIT!
Using a soft food treat, lure the pup into the “sit” position. You do this by simply holding the treat in your hand and

Have the dog/puppy on your left hand side for future good training habits. In formal training class, dogs are taught to walk on the owners left hand side, therefore the sooner he gets into this habit, the easier future training will be, and you will have the advantage of not having to “re-teach” him to “Sit” and “work/play” in the “Heel” position.
Place a food treat or lure in your hand. Show the dog you have the food and slowly push your food hand over the dogs head towards the tail. As the dog lifts his head to follow the food, his bottom will drop onto the ground and he will be “Sitting”. Let him lick some of the food and tell him he is a good boy to “Sit” whilst using the rest of the treat to ensure that he remains in the “Sit” position for a couple of seconds. Make sure that your vocalisation is in a happy, jolly praise voice. Repeat until you can see that he is following your food hand as a hand signal.
Now you need to keep him in the “Sit” position – whilst repeating the happy command to “Sit” whilst simultaneously slipping his collar up.
If your hand is in the correct position, and it doesn’t move or wander, you can actually “wedge/block” him, so that he will not need to get up or move (to follow your food hand.) Which is why it is so important – that once the pup is in the correct position, to keep the lure or food hand still. You can then simultaneously fit his collar on and clip on his leash!
Repeat this regularly so that he will begin to associate the “Sit” with putting his collar and leash on.
You should also practice simply clipping and unclipping his leash with him in the sit position.

The same method can be used, to make putting doggy coats on and off easier, and even for pill popping!


The following is an excerpt from my Book, Discover Your Puppy’s Paws Abilities. And I encourage you to forward this article to friends and in fact anyone who is thinking about obtaining a puppy. We try to encourage them to not let their heart rule their head.

THINGS TO CONSIDER BEFORE BUYING A PUPPY:
Owning a puppy is a privilege, a responsibility and a lifetime commitment! The average dog can live for 12 – 15 years, so this should not be a decision taken lightly. A family should give serious thought and planning to the purchase, before going out to buy a puppy.

A puppy is not something that should be bought on a whim, taken on as an act of sympathy or pity, or collected as a fashion statement or a fashion accessory! My first advice to any family is “don’t rush into anything!” Take your time before making any decisions. A lengthy family discussion is a good thing at this time. The following should be fully discussed by the whole family.

ARE YOU A “WORTHY” PROSPECTIVE DOG OWNER?
# Are you in a financial position to be able to afford the “privilege” of buying a “suitable” puppy and the continued
ongoing financial burden of keeping a dog?
# Are you sure that your house and garden (fencing etc) is a safe/suitable and secure environment to keep a
puppy/dog?
# Are their any other considerations you need to take into account, such as religion, cultural aspects, children with
allergies or family health problems etc that could affect any interactions with the puppy?
# Does your lifestyle warrant owning a dog? Do you and your family have the “TIME” and energy it takes to be a
responsible dog owner for the next ten to sixteen years? (Longevity is breed specific)
# Who is going to be responsible for the care, feeding, grooming and cleaning up after the new puppy?Where is the
pup going to sleep?
# Who is going to be responsible for the regular exercise and training of the puppy for the next 10 to 15 years?
# When you are away on holiday or business what will happen to the dog/pup?
# What breed of pup are you going to choose in order to fit in with your lifestyle and home environment?
# Where are you going to purchase a dog/pup?

WHY DO YOU WANT A PUPPY?
This is not quite as silly a question as it sounds! People buy pets for many different reasons and you should be very sure of your motivation. You need to be sure that you truly WANT a puppy and the hassles and responsibilities that come with it

If you are getting a puppy just for the kids – DON’T! Children as you well know have very short attention spans, the puppy will be a novelty for a while, and then it starts to grow up……… At some stage, the puppy starts to nip the children’s hands, chew up their toys, becomes more demanding and without the correct upbringing and training, soon becomes a damn nuisance! This is the time that most young children seriously start to lose interest! If you are getting a puppy to teach your children responsibility, DON’T! You know as a parent, no matter what rules you make, the children are not going to be caring for this pet for the next 10 to 15 years. YOU ARE! So do not try to fool yourself into thinking that the children will care for and look after the puppy, because you know that is not going to happen.

PUPPIES/DOGS ARE NOT!
· Puppies are not - Toys or playthings to keep the kids occupied. They are complex creatures with emotions and feelings, with very specific needs. They are extremely social animals needing lots of love, time, and energy and a “genuine long-term -life commitment” from their owners.

· Puppies are not - Mobile security systems. If you are getting a dog to keep in the yard just to protect your property – DON’T! For a dog to want to protect your family and property, he needs to feel and be included as part of the larger group/pack (family). If the relationship is appropriate and the dog is genetically sound, he will protect you and yours. But, if he is kept in solitary confinement behind four concrete walls with no stimulation and no interaction with your family, and/or is kept isolated from the world at large, then he will have no reason to protect anything but HIMSELF. If this is the case, then rather go out and spend the money on a good security system.

· Puppies are not - A fashion statement nor a status symbol! With each new doggie movie that is released, hoards of unscrupulous back yard breeders and puppy mills mass-produce poor specimens of puppies for the gullible public to buy! The fashion changes with each new film release!

The public needs to understand that each dog you see starring in a film has been specially researched, selected, bred, and trained for the part. It would therefore be illogical to think that each individual dog of each breed has the same character, nature, or is equal in trainability to his film star counterpart!

· Puppies are not: - A child substitute! If you are getting a puppy for this reason what is the position of the dog going to be when you become a harassed new mom? Is this pet going to end up in “doggie jail” – condemned to a life alone, in the back garden, lonely, rejected, neglected and forgotten?

CAN YOU AFFORD TO KEEP A DOG?The following will give you an idea of what is involved.
· Cost of purchasing from a reputable breeder.
· Cost of safe fencing and securing the immediate environment.
· Cost of bedding and sleeping arrangements.
· Cost of good quality food and hygienic safe feed/water dishes.
· Cost of regular parasite control, both external (fleas/ticks) and internal (de-worming.) This is an ongoing cost, monthly for external parasites (fleas/ticks) and every three to four months or so for internal parasites (worms), for the rest of the dog’s life! If these things are neglected both the dog and the family’s heath can be compromised. Certain animal parasites such as tapeworms can be transmitted to humans!
· Biting flies can also be a problem and in the summer months preventative fly repellent will need to be applied every couple of days.
· Cost of brushes and grooming equipment - dog shampoos, dips etc.
· Cost of professional grooming and clipping. This is specific to certain breeds and includes breeds such as the French Poodle, which needs regular bathing, clipping, and brushing out.
· Cost of medical bills due to ill health or genetic problems.
If your dog/puppy gets ill, surgery and the veterinary bills can be very costly. A Pet’s Medical Aid could be considered.
· Cost of sterilisation for both dog and bitch puppies at about six months of age. Neutered male dogs and spayed female bitches make the best house pets with various other advantages including longevity!
· Cost of kennelling the animal when you are away on holiday or business or the cost of paying someone to “house sit” and be a primary care giver.
· Cost of daily cleaning up after the pup – pups and dogs pee and poop a LOT!
· Cost of training classes and training equipment.
· Cost of entertainment / dog toys / chew items for teething, etc.
· Cost of replacement for all the goodies that the puppy is going to destroy!

DO YOU HAVE THE “TIME” TO CARE FOR, RAISE AND EDUCATE A PUPPY?
Owning a dog is extremely time-consuming. Training, exercising, feeding, grooming and cleaning up after a dog all take time. As a prospective dog owner you must know that “time” is man’s most valuable commodity and, as the world seems to get smaller and busier by the day, you need to be sure that you are going to have enough time to meet all the future needs of your pup. Again I stress this can be for the next 12 years or so! The following will give you an idea of just what is involved in the daily routine of keeping a dog.

# Feeding: The average seven-week-old pup is fed four times per day. From about six months of age, pups are fed three times per day. The average adult dog is fed twice a day.

# Exercise: Dogs (depending on breed) need to be exercised off the property at least three to four times per week. This is for mental stimulation as well as exercise and to avoid behavioural problems such as confinement stress and the development of destructive behaviours.

# Grooming: This depends on the breed of dog and the individual type of coat. With a short haired breed such as a Labrador or a Staffordshire Terrier you could get away with a quick rub over with a grooming glove,
a couple of times a week. A longhaired breed such as a Border Collie would need daily brushing out. Breeds such as the French Poodle need regular professional attention.
# Training: With a tiny puppy you will need to spend a couple of minutes several times a day for learning. An adult dog will need a session of about 15 minutes several times a week. This is not only for learning but also for mental stimulation and discipline.

# Cleaning up: Dogs and puppies eliminate (toilet) several times a day. For reasons of hygiene for both pet and the family, faeces need to be picked up at least once a day.

# Washing: Blankets, bedding and sleeping areas will also need to be washed every week and regularly treated with a preventative tick/flea product.

# Washing up: Feed dishes need to be washed after each meal to stop attracting flies and the water bowl should be changed, washed and refilled daily.

As you can see from the above, owning and bringing up a dog is very time consuming,
energy consuming and financial costly!

Still convinced that you want to buy a Puppy?



TOP DOGS ASSESSMENT
“Touch Our Pets” a community based animal assisted therapy organisation is having an assessment at the Paws Abilities Behaviour and Learning Centre training grounds on the 22nd February 2009. The dogs and handlers are to be put through their paces under the watchful eye of accredited animal behaviourist Louise Thompson at Paws Abilities in Benoni.

This wonderful group of dedicated handlers and their dogs do a wonderful job both conducting visits to the elderly in care, hospitals, child care facilities, and are also involved in school education – educating children in both pet care and other aspects of pet care and prevent a bite.

Anyone who wishes to have their dog evaluated to see if he/she is a suitable candidate for this wonderful work or would like more information about the programmes can contact Angie Thornton at act@icon.co.za or myself (Louise) at louthomp@mweb.co.za

Top Dogs are looking for happy, well socialised dogs who love people and who have the right attributes to undertake these social based interactions. The dogs do not have to be show dog obedience trained but owners do need to have basic leash control over their dogs and most importantly, the dogs need to possess an excellent temperament. In fact, the most important prerequisite is temperament – both a good temperament and tolerance towards people, and also a good tolerance towards other dogs.

Before the dogs and handlers are permitted to go on a “visit” to any facility, they must have succeeded through the evaluation process, be a member of the TOP Dogs group (which also includes things like indemnity/liability coverage, veterinary certificates / proof of good health / regular internal and external parasite control etc) and have undergone life skills situational experiences with the group who meet on a regular basis to provide their dogs with life skills. This is to ensure that the dogs are well prepared and have the correct attributes not only to do the job, but to enjoy the whole experience.

Any dog/s who does NOT make it through the assessment will be able to take advantage of chatting to our animal behaviourist/professional dog trainer – Louise, at the end of the afternoon, who is more than happy to help point them in the right direction, provide advice and make suggestions on how to help/improve. Often a dog who “fails” – with a little bit of effort from owners and the correct handling, can become a wonderful therapy dog. So there are really no such things a failure!


Well that’s about it for now guys. I will keep you all posted of our upcoming events and other exciting news and provide feedback of other events.

Please give me a shout with any views, news and other items, subject matter or articles that you would like to see included or discussed in our newsletter
Chow for Now

Louise
Consulting Rooms (011) 969-4467 Mobile 082-890-0905 E-mail louthomp@mweb.co.za