Paws News October 2008

Paws Abilities Behaviour & Learning Centre
Newsletter Number – 23 OCTOBER 2008

A warm welcome to all Paws Abilities students, family, friends and clients. Well dog poisonings have reared it’s ugly head again with countless beloved pets dying in the area. I have been informed that the products used are ILLEGAL in this country! If this is the case, how are they getting onto the street? I believe that the time has come for us all to take a far more pro-active role and find out who is manufacturing these products. Take note that they are also lethal to humans and children! Write to the big chemical companies to find out who is producing these chemicals. Everyone should be taking a stand! Write to your local councillor, write to the SAPS, write to the NSPCA – write to the newspaper – don’t stop! Write letters to the newspaper – it seems that this might be the only way to make a difference! Bombard everyone who has a say in letters – who knows that might just do something – if only to shut us up!

Under the offences listed in the Animal Protection Act any person who:- Lays or exposes any poison or any poisoned fluid or edible matter of infectious agents, except for the destruction of vermin, or marauding domestic animals, or without taking reasonable precautions to prevent injury or disease being caused to animals ; Shall be guilty of an offence and liable on conviction to a fine or imprisonment for a period not exciding two years. Ok so now we know it is illegal – what are the police and other organisations doing about it!

I have been informed that these products are freely available at most taxi ranks and other places. If people know this, why are spot checks not being undertaken. So perhaps we should all write to or contact our local police stations and start to demand that they undertake searches etc and follow through with prosecutions! If anyone has any ideas – please let me know, I think that it is about time that we all stood together and did something! Together we can make a difference!

Please note that I have also started to make enquiries regarding where the law stand on possessing and selling the illegal poisons and will let you all know as soon as I receive feed back.


PREVENTATIVE MEASURES THAT CAN BE TAKEN
õ Don’t let your dogs sleep outside – they are much more vulnerable when in the garden. Even if you have to obtain an “indoor kennel” or “dog crate” and then go to the trouble of “crate training” your dog. At least if he is indoors and alive!
õ Before letting your dogs out in the garden for their early morning pee, first do a poison patrol and look for evidence of plastic packets with food in – often sausages and processed meats are used. Sometimes they are split open and filled with the poison and then tied together with wire
õ DO NOT TOUCH THE SUSPECT MEAT – unless you wear rubber gloves!!!!! Remember this poison can be toxic to humans and children are also especially vulnerable!!
õ When you are absent from the home – keep your dog/s in the back garden and if necessary erect some shade netting to make it difficult to throw poison tied to any object over your roof.
õ Be aware when your dogs bark and give you an “alarm” bark.
õ Be vigilant of strangers hanging around your house and “casing the neighborhood” often criminals suss out the streets first and then come back later to poison.
õ If your dog is poisoned – take action immediately. If your doggy is still breathing you will need to get him to a veterinarian immediately if he is going to have a chance of survival. WEAR RUBBER GLOVES for your own protection.
õ If sadly your dog is dead – again please do not handle or touch the body – without wearing rubber gloves. Many veterinarians have to take special precautions when disposing of these poor dogs bodies, so please contact your veterinarian or your local CMS or police station who will be able to advise you how to go about disposal.

This is one of the hardest things to write about and I pray that none of us will ever have to experience the horror of loosing their “best friend” in this callous, evil way!

So be careful, be aware and keep your babies safe!

KENNEL CARE VS HOME-ALONE CARE

HOME-ALONE CARE
It is generally not a good idea to have a friend or neighbour pop in daily to care for your dog when you are away.

For one thing, most people are not experienced enough to be able to spot illness timorously. For example, Billary fever, a disease presenting with symptoms of anaemia, lethargy and listlessness. In the latter stages, the dog exhibits a lack of appetite. Lack of appetite is often confused with the dog pining for his owners! Billary if left untreated can be fatal! If you decide on home care, a better option would be to get a responsible, full time house sitter, (someone who possesses animal-experience and knowledge).

I must add, that dogs suffering from noise phobias, who are thunder phobic, or suffer from sound sensitivity should never be left home alone! These dogs are more likely to present a danger to themselves and others. They are the dogs that often escape in panic when their owners are away, get run over on the roads during a storm, and end up as strays in animal shelters.

THINGS TO THINK ABOUT
Ø The dog should have adequate shelter from the elements. Ideally, if it is an inside dog, a doggie door with access to a secure room with a safe place/bed should be provided. It may be necessary to block off an open- plan kitchen, or make some other suitable arrangement.

Ø Do not change the dogs’ usual access to the house. Do not suddenly dump a house-dog in the garage – he will stress! Stress = noise pollution. One of the most common problems with dogs left “home – alone” whilst their owners are on holiday is noise pollution. Noise pollution = neighbour complaints!

Ø Clean water must be available at all times in a spill-proof dish. If all else fails, a washing up bowl wedged into a motor care tyre works well.

Ø The dog should be protected from external parasites with a long acting tick and flea preparation (available from your veterinarian). He should also be protected against biting flies (in the summer months). All these products are available from your veterinarian.

Ø The property and environment where the dog is to be confined should be completely escape proof.

Ø Do not leave the dog/s wearing a check chain, or a slip collar. If it gets stuck on a branch or fence, your dog could strangle himself! Leave him wearing flat collar, in which you can fit at least three fingers in to ensure it is not too tight.

Ø Anything dangerous in the environment must be removed, or made “safe”. Any poisonous substances need to be locked away. Contents of the garage need to be made safe. Spikes on any gates will need to be taped. Care needs to be taken if you own elderly dogs. They sometimes get disorientated and if you have a swimming pool, could fall in and drown...

Ø You will need to provide the dogs with an abundance of chew items. Leave an abundance of non-synthetic objects for him to vent on. Items such as cow hooves, pigs ears, etc. If you own several dogs, you should also consider any potential aggression that could occur in your absence. Stress can make aggression worse. If you are in any doubt, then rather kennel the dogs.

Ø Matters of hygiene need to be considered. Your house sitter must be prepared to “scoop the poop” at least once a day. This is to prevent an increase in flies for the duration of your absence

Ø Make sure that all your dogs have nametags on their collars. The nametags should clearly state the sitter’s contacts (as you will be away). Just in case of an accident and he manages to escape – he can be returned and not risk being at a welfare for a week and then being re-homed

Ø Lastly provide your sitter with all your relevant veterinarians’ numbers including an emergency hour’s numbers.

KENNEL CARE
Before choosing a boarding kennel, you should get plenty of referrals.
A good place to start is your local veterinarian. Groomer’s, friends (with good experiences), dog trainers etc. View the kennels well in advance, preferably NOT in the “off season”, as, when they are busy it will provide you with a better idea of how they cope under pressure. A visit prior to kennelling will also provide you with insight of their routines and the general care that they provide.

If a referral is not possible. You should look for kennel that is a registered member of the Pet Boarders Association. The organisation has a Code of Ethics, which provides the public with a certain amount of protection.

PREPARING YOUR PUP FOR A KENNEL STAY
Book well in advance. Good kennels are often booked up long before the holiday season.

In an ideal scenario, you should prepare you dog or pup well in advance.
THIS ALSO APPLIES TO PEOPLE WHO ARE EMIGRATING – WELL IN ADVANCE AC-CUSTOMISE YOUR DOG TO STAYING IN A KENNEL. So that he will have ‘COPING SKILLS” when you are apart.

Start to visit the kennel for short social visits. Do this regularly up to a month or two before leaving your dog there. Take his favourite toys. Play games with him. Play ball, pop treats, etc. Anything that you can do which will provide the dog/pup with a positive association to the environment. This will ensure that when he is actually left at the kennels, it will not be such a culture shock.

The next step would be to book him in for a morning stay. Once this is successful, the next step would be to book him in for a one-day stay. Thereafter, you could then book him in for a trial weekend. Ensure that you obtain feedback from the owners and staff as to how he coped.

Before booking in, protect your dog from any possible parasites by using a long acting tick & flea preparation. You should also provide the staff with a preparation to repel biting flies. Both products are available from your veterinarian.

Inform staff of any special diet that your dog requires. Realise that this could affect the price of his stay.

Depending on his length of stay, your dog might need additional exercise. Make sure this service is provided by the establishment. If you are only going away for a couple of days, it is not an issue. In addition (for short-term stays), if the dog is stressed, he will probably feel more secure if he is confined to a smaller area.

Only be concerned about adequate exercise if you are away for a longer period. However, it is important that you confirm this with the staff. Some kennels provide wonderful escape proof, exercise areas. If your dog is a “jumper” or expert escape artist, please inform staff. This could be critical to ensure your dogs safety.

TAKE A DOG HOLIDAY PACK for your dog.
Take a piece of your clothing to leave in his kennel. The clothing should have your scent on it. This will help your dog/pup to feel less abandoned in the kennel, and aid in providing him with feelings of security.

Take lots of stuff for him to chew. Take along his favourite toys and non-synthetic chews to vent on. (pigs ears, cow hooves, etc.) You can even provide the staff with some yummy fillings for them to pack inside the hooves. Peanut butter, Bovril, whatever … All of this will aid in relieving boredom, reducing stress and providing him with something to occupy himself with in your absence.

Do take his own bed and bedding.

DON’T FORGET TO LET STAFF KNOW THAT ….. you don’t care if his bedding, toys, or other items are destroyed, chewed up, or peed on. If you don’t let them know staff will often whisk them away, to make sure they are presented to you when you collect your dog – clean and in one piece.


HE JUST WANTS TO SAY "HI!" (Ed’s Note – I came across this “little gem” the other day whilst attempting to surf – it really is self explanatory and is oh soooooo true!!!
PICTURE THIS SCENARIO!!! Sitting quietly on the mall bench beside my husband, I was minding my own business when the man approached. I glanced up as the man sat next to me. He was a bit close for my comfort, so I edged a little closer to my husband who, busy reading a book, ignored me. Still feeling a bit uncomfortable with the strange man so close, I then turned my head slightly away from him, politely indicating I was not interested in any interaction. To my horror, the man leaned over me and began licking my neck while rudely groping me. When I screamed and pushed him away, my trouble really began. My husband angrily threw me to the ground, yelling at me "Why did you do that? He was only trying to be friendly and say hi! What a touchy bitch you are! You're going to have to learn to behave better in public." People all around us stared and shook their heads sadly. I heard a few murmuring that they thought my husband should do something about my behaviour; some even mentioned that he shouldn't have such a violent woman out in public until I'd been trained better. As my husband dragged me to the car, I noticed that the man who had groped me had gone a bit further down the mall and was doing the same thing to other women. This is a silly scenario, isn't it? First, anyone who knows me knows that I would never be in a mall except under considerable duress. More seriously, no rational human being would consider my response to the man's rudeness as inappropriate or vicious. By invading my personal space, the man crossed the lines of decent, civilized behaviour; my response would be considered quite justified. That my husband might punish me for responding to such rudeness by screaming and pushing the offender away is perhaps the most ridiculous aspect of this scenario. If he were to act in this way, there would be no doubt in the minds of even the most casual observers that his ego was of far greater importance than my safety or comfort, and that he was sorely lacking even rudimentary empathy for how I might be feeling in this situation. Fortunately for me, this scenario is completely imaginary. Unfortunately for many dogs, it is a very real scenario that is repeated far too often. Inevitably, as the owners who have allowed their dogs to act rudely retreat from the situation, there are comments made about "that aggressive dog" (meaning the dog whose space had been invaded) and the classic comment, usually said in hurt tones, "He only wanted to say hi!" While there are many frustrating aspects of being a dog trainer, one of the most disturbing scenarios is the situation where a dog is acting appropriately but nonetheless is punished (in the name of "training") by humans who do not understand what constitutes normal canine behaviour and responses. Sadly, normal behaviour is quickly labelled "problem" behaviour, and the dog is now a "problem dog." Depending on the skill and awareness of the trainer or instructor, the dog may be merely puzzled or irritated by well meaning attempts to desensitise or re-condition the behaviour or actually punished quite severely using any number of horrific and senseless techniques. During an off-lead play session at our camp, two adolescent dogs began to roughhouse at top speed, resulting in one of them crashing hard into an older dog who'd been minding his own business. With a loud roar, he chased the offender for a few steps to make his point: "Watch where the heck you're going!" A few minutes later, with the game still going strong, we watched as that same youngster found himself headed once again on a collision course with the older dog. It seemed another crash and altercation were inevitable. To the surprise of many who were watching, the youngster used all of his skills to avoid the crash, neatly swerving past the older dog who made no comment.
The puppy had learned that no matter how excited he might be by the game, he still had an obligation to be polite. We would look with a raised eyebrow at a mother who allowed a child to simply carom around a room bouncing off people and did nothing to calm the child, and who told those her child had shoved and pushed that, "He's just over excited." Just as parents bear some responsibility for their children's actions, dog owners have a responsibility to help their puppies act in an appropriate way - not to excuse rudeness. Sometimes, this requires that we not allow a young dog (or a dog of any age) to escalate to such a high level of excitement and arousal. As a rule of thumb, the more excited and emotional a dog becomes, the less capable they are of thinking clearly and acting appropriately. (This is also true of all other animals, including people.) Wise handlers know that when emotions are running high, a cool down period is a good choice to avoid problems. Sometimes, helping a young dog learn what is appropriate requires the assistance of a normal, well socialised dog who can make his or her point without leaving anything but a clear message imprinted upon the puppy. Normal dogs, like normal people, are often incredibly tolerant of the antics of youngsters. The tolerance level is highly individual and dependent upon the dog's experience with puppies. Dogs without much experience with puppies may not be nearly as tolerant as dogs who have seen a lot of puppies come and go. Tolerance levels are also highly dependent upon the youngster's age; there are different expectations for what constitutes appropriate behaviour at any given age. What we might find acceptable behaviour in a 3 year old child would be frowned upon in an 8 year old. Dogs also have a timetable in their heads - puppies under 16 weeks of age can usually take appalling liberties with an adult dog. As Dunbar notes, there appears to be a "puppy license" of sorts, possession of which entitles you to be an utter pest without much repercussion. Past the age of 4 ½ months, the "puppy license" expires as hormone levels shift and psychological changes occur. At this point, adult dogs begin to gradually insist on more controlled, respectful interactions from youngsters. No matter what the breed, no matter how much genetic manipulation may have muted or inhibited certain behaviours, a dog is a dog is a dog. And the basics of dog-to-dog communications remain the same: a growl means back off in any breed's language, a tail held high and stiffly is a warning, rolling over on your back is an apology, etc. My experience has been that it is owners of breeds considered non-aggressive that cause the most problems in dog-to-dog interactions simply by being unaware that their dog is rude. To the owners of non-aggressive breeds, there doesn't appear to be any thought that rudeness can take many forms. Anyone can recognize that a dog lunging and snarling is being rude. Far too few folks recognize that simply getting into another's dog space - however sweetly and quietly - is just as rude in the world of dogs. Owners of rude dogs do not perceive their dogs' actions as rude; they see only "friendliness," as if the behaviour for greeting people is the same as greeting another dog - it's not! Thus the classic line, "He's only trying to say ‘hi!'" Like people, dogs have varying thresholds for what I call the "fool factor." Consider yourself in this situation: you are walking down the street, and a group of loud, noisy teenagers - busy at the centre of their own world - bumps into you and knocks you down. Do you smile at them? Do you mutter, "Watch where you're going!" as you brush yourself off? Do you get quite vocal in expressing your displeasure? All depends on your tolerance threshold. It also depends on your mood, your health, the various stresses at work in your life, etc. Imagine that you had just won the lottery moments before they bumped into you. Chances are pretty good you'd be far more tolerant than if you'd just come from a meeting with the IRS. What if you'd been mugged a year earlier by a similar group of young hooligans? Chances are good that you might view this group as potentially dangerous, again altering your possible response to their rudeness. Our dogs are no different. Each dog - no matter what the breed - has his own tolerance threshold, and that threshold is variable as a result of many factors, including basic breed characteristics. Some breeds have been selectively bred to have a very high tolerance threshold because they are asked to work in large groups. Fox hounds come to mind as a breed specifically selected for tolerance of other dogs.
Generally speaking, the guardian breeds by their very nature and job descriptions are not meant to work in groups and have a stronger sense of personal space, thus are usually much less tolerant of rudeness. Bad experiences can make a dog quite sensitive to rude behaviour by other dogs. From the dog's point of view, there is the very real possibility that such rudeness could become an actual attack - it has in the past. Health problems can also affect a dog's tolerance level. A dog who is in pain (whether just muscle sore from hard work or play, or from a disease such as hip dysphasia or the creeping onset of arthritis) will have far less tolerance than he might when he's feeling fine. We cannot expect our dogs to be saints - at least not until we can rise to that level of tolerance ourselves. And that's unlikely to happen any time soon. We can expect our dogs to be tolerant to the degree that we educate them, socialize them and protect them - with respect to their individual needs and boundaries. To my way of thinking, a critical part of the relationships I have with my animals is this promise: "I will protect you." And to the best of my abilities, I do not violate this promise in any way. A few years ago, I was invited to be part of a fund-raising dog walk. One of my duties was to lead the entire group on the first lap of the walk. I had chosen my oldest bitch, Vali, to accompany me. As we waited, hundreds of dogs and handlers assembled in the park. Many of the dogs were quite excited. Some dogs were only under borderline control. Vali laid quietly at my side, watching it all with great tolerance. One particular dog caught my eye - a huge yellow Labrador who was dragging a small child behind him as he ploughed through the crowd. I watched as this dog marked not only every tree or bush he passed, but also several pants legs of unsuspecting people. More aware handlers quietly gathered up their dogs and moved out of Mr. Rude's path, thus avoiding potential altercations. As he moved closer to us, I saw Vali's head turn toward him and become quite still. Her eyes began to harden as she assessed - quite accurately - just how rude a dog this was. I could see her contemplating possible responses should the Lab be so rude as to invade her space (which in such public settings is perhaps 2-3 feet from her body). The only intervention necessary was to gently touch her on the head and say, "Yes. I see him. And you're right - he is rude. I'll handle it." Then I stepped slightly in front of her so that if he approached, he would have to first come through me. Immediately, Vali relaxed and went back to watching the crowd in general though she did keep an eye on Mr. Rude. Fortunately for us, Mr. Rude veered off to hassle another dog and the moment passed. There were other ways I could have responded. I could have seen Vali's very appropriate response as potential aggression, and told her harshly, "Leave it!" To my way of thinking, that does not acknowledge or respect her feelings; it merely demonstrates my own fears about losing control of my dog's behaviour. I could have ignored the subtle signs that she had some concerns about Mr. Rude, and waited until he invaded her space then punished her for defending herself against rudeness. To my way of thinking, that would violate my promise to protect those I love, and then add insult to injury by punishing her for protecting herself. Keeping that promise to my dogs means that I am obligated to watch for any sign that they are beginning to feel concerned about a situation, and to act quickly to eliminate or minimize their concerns. Unfortunately for many dogs labelled "dog aggressive," a weird loop begins to form between dog and handler in the struggle to deal with this behaviour. Understandably shocked when their dog exhibits any kind of aggressive behaviour, the handler begins to scan the world at large for anything that might trigger that behaviour again. They become hyper-alert to any potential situation, and upon sighting a potential problem, grab the lead with a death grip in order to control their "aggressive dog." Their own concern coupled with the death grip escalates the dog's anxiety and aggression, usually resulting in precisely the behaviour they sought to avoid in the first place. Far more insidious, however, is the message sent to the dog whose handler pays intense attention to the world at large but none to the dog himself!

In one of my seminars, a woman presented her terrier Brisky with the complaint that he was "dog aggressive." In reality, Brisky had very little off-lead socialization, was quite fearful of other dogs, and all his "aggression" was nothing more than defensive offence. If given a choice, Brisky would have happily left the room and driven himself home. The woman looked like a Secret Service agent on presidential detail - she never stopped scanning the room for any potential problem. Was that person going to get up and walk their dog past Brisky? Was that dog going to turn around and lie down facing Brisky? She saw potential disaster in every slight adjustment or movement of another dog. What she never looked at was Brisky himself. Consequently, his "sudden" explosions always came as a shock to her. I felt very sorry for Brisky. He sent many signals to his owner that he was worried and afraid. But all his communications were all ignored until he felt so pressured that he had to protect himself in the only way he knew how. It is very hard to feel safe and protected if the person you are with pays no attention to you. When working with people like Brisky's owners, my goal is to get them to watch the dog, not the world at large. If their attention is outward, instead of on the dog, they will miss the early signs that their dog is feeling uncomfortable and needs some help. The earlier the dog receives acknowledgment for what he's feeling, is helped to cope with the situation, and given evidence that you understand his concern and will deal with it on his behalf, the less likely his behaviour is to escalate into dramatic displays. This is true whether it's a dog like Vali who believes that a rude dog should be taken down a peg or a dog like Brisky who is afraid. I encourage handlers to be quite active in protecting their dog - whether that means quietly walking away to a safer area, or, when that's not possible, literally stepping in physically to present the first line of defence. Stepping in between two dogs is a classic act of leadership. Dogs do it with other dogs all the time, so this same gesture coming from a human leader is understood and appreciated. Brisky visibly relaxed when his owner began watching him, not the world; by the end of the day, he was far more tolerant of situations that had previously triggered his explosions. No doubt he felt safer - someone was finally listening to what he had to say, and offering him help (such as changing his body posture and thus his emotional state) when he needed it. The owner reported that she felt calmer knowing that Brisky would let her know how he was feeling, and that she could help him before he felt the need to protect himself. Instead of having to scan the world at large constantly, she could relax and focus only on what Brisky told her about the world as he saw it. In my opinion, an instructor's responsibility is not only to educate dogs and owners, but also to act to protect each dog from the other members of the class. This requires an ever-deepening understanding of canine behavior, and an attendance to subtleties of behaviour that foretell problems brewing. Certainly, no matter how aware or dedicated a handler, it is not possible to stop other dogs from being rude - or, more to the point, it is not possible to educate all other handlers so that they won't allow their dogs to be rude. I believe fools and rudeness are widespread, and to the best of my knowledge, there's no concerted government program to eradicate either rudeness or foolishness. (If there were, Capitol Hill would soon be a ghost town. . .) Here's my advice for dealing with the "fool factor." 1. Socialize your dog thoroughly with other dogs; for puppies, choose playmates of a similar age and adults who have been well socialized themselves. This means off-lead socialization, not sniffing noses at the end of the lead. The more experience a dog has with other dogs, the more refined his judgment will become about what constitutes rude or foolish behaviour and how best to deal with it. He'll also learn how to be a polite dog himself. If a dog has not or cannot be well socialized, be realistic about what you can expect from him in his dealings with other dogs. This may mean altering your training or competition goals to be fair to a dog who may not be able to cope with the stresses of these situations. 2. When socialising your dog under someone else's instruction or guidance, be careful. Some instructors and trainers are appalling ignorant about basic behaviour, and unable to set up a positive socialization situation. If you feel uncomfortable with a situation, remove your dog. It only takes a few seconds for a bad experience to leave a lasting impression, particularly on a young dog. Just turning dogs loose together to play is not socialization. There has to be supervision, and intervention when the potential for a problem appears. The instructor must pay attention to each individual dog as well as the pairings or subsets within the whole play group. If one dog is getting overly excited, it's time to gently capture him, take him out of the play group and calm him down before letting him play again. If a fearful dog has reached his limit, it's time to remove him from the group and give him time to relax and build his courage before putting him back in. If a particular dog or dogs begins to gang up on another dog, time to break up the brat pack. 3. Watch your dog. Your dog will tell you all you need to know about his perception of the world. When you're with him, really be with him. Pay attention to his behaviour. Position yourself and/or the dog so that the dog is always in your peripheral vision. Practice checking on your dog often. If he appears to be concerned, find out why. And then help him. Protect him. Teach yourself to recognize the small, subtle signs that he's shifted out of a perfectly relaxed state of mind. These may be as simple as the tilt of an ear, a raised eyebrow, a slight holding of the breath or tensing of the muscles. Each dog is different - learn to read your own dog. If you can't watch your dog in a situation where there are potential problems, put him somewhere safe. I've seen far too many incidents occur unnecessarily because a handler was engrossed in a conversation or fascinated by what was happening in the ring and ignoring the dog at their side. When a handler's attention is elsewhere, I call this handling by Braille - meaning, knowing nothing more than that there was still pressure on the lead and thus the dog was still present. Unbeknownst to you, the dog could be acting rudely himself or trying to avoid a rude dog. Handle your dog with awareness, not by the length of your lead. 4. Be pro-active in protecting your dog. If you see a fool and his rude dog headed your way, do your best to protect your dog. If possible, walk away, lightly and quietly asking your dog to come with you. Be sure you are breathing and relaxed - don't let your apprehension about a possible altercation impact negatively on your dog. If you can't walk away, try to get the fool to stop. Position yourself between the fool and your dog. If necessary, loudly & firmly tell the approaching person that your dog is not good with other dogs. In close quarters where there really aren't any options for moving away, shield your dog with your own body. (Remember, stepping between dogs is an act of protective leadership.) If you need to, sharply tell the fool to "please control your rude dog." You'll probably get a dirty look (fools rarely believe they or their dogs are rude and are shocked when spoken to sharply) but chances are good they'll at least make a show at controlling their dog or move huffily away from you. DOs & DON'Ts DON'T bring an intolerant or under-socialised dog to a puppy kindergarten or other concentrations of rudeness & stupidity when you know he can't handle puppies, stupidity, or rudeness! DON'T put your dog in a situation you or he are not prepared to handle. DON'T turn a rude puppy or dog loose with an intolerant adult. DON'T expect your dog to like every dog he meets (at least until you like every person you meet.) DON'T allow your dog to become overexcited or rude - help him find a more appropriate behaviour or remove him briefly from the triggering situation DON'T allow other people to allow their dogs to be rude to your dog. DON'T ignore your dog or what your dog tells you about his feelings. DON'T punish a dog for telling another dog to get the hell out of his face. DON'T punish an adult for reminding a puppy to mind his manners. DON'T let your training or competition goals overwhelm your good sense - always be fair to your dog. DO respect the fact that your dog has a need for & a right to his personal space. DO socialize your dog so that he's wise in the ways of other dogs. DO accept the inexplicable disliking that your dog may have for another dog. DO build your dog's tolerance levels through repeated, positive experiences. DO continually educate yourself regarding normal and appropriate canine behaviour in any given situation. DO plan ahead to how you will handle difficult situations, people or dogs. DO earn your dog's trust by keeping your promise to protect him. DO pay attention to your dog when you are with him. DO insist that your dog behave politely. DO respect that your dog's individual needs may or may not be in line with your training or competition goals. DO put your dog first - all your hopes, dreams, titles & goals all mean nothing if you ignore the needs, fears and realities of who your dog is. DO honour & respect your dog's concerns, whether or not you share them. (Remember how your mom left the light in the hall on at night when you were a kid? It probably wasn't because she was afraid of the dark.)

November Fireworks days (Guy Fawkes – 5 Nov and Diwali – 9 Nov)
This was issued by Johannesburg – What is happening in Ekuheleni?? Statement on official Fireworks policy of City of Johannesburg Issued by: Cllr Tim Sargeant DA Council Spokesperson on Environmental Matters
Rights of residents and domestic and other animals Annual illegal noise and consequent animal terror
"Fireworks Month" (November) is around the corner and the annual Johannesburg fireworks noise frenzy is about to affect every resident of the City as well as their pets and other suburban animals and birds.
Improper use of fireworks is illegal in Johannesburg and it is important to remind residents about the City's strict fireworks regulations and about the rights of residents to demand Council action against illegal fireworks usage.
A few facts: Unless special Council authorisation has been applied for and granted, there are only 11 days annually when residents are allowed to "light or ignite" fireworks. Guy Fawkes and Divali are such days. (R 500 fine on other days).
¨ Except for New Year's Eve, the only permissible time period for igniting fireworks on these days is between 19h00 and 22h00 (7 to 10 pm). (R 500 fine at any other time).
¨ No person may light or ignite fireworks in any place where animals are present (R 1 000 fine). This includes domestic homes.
¨ No person may allow any minor (child) under his or her control to "use, light or ignite" fireworks (R 1 500 fine). No exceptions to this rule.
¨ No person may use fireworks on any agricultural holding or at any school or senior citizens' residence without special Council authorisation ( R 1 000 to R 1 500 fine). This authorisation must be sought well in advance of intended day.
¨ No person can use fireworks within 500 metres of any petrol depot or petrol station without special Council authorisation ( R 1 500 fine).
¨ No person or organisation can "present a fireworks display" unless formally authorised to do so by the Council (at least 14 days' notice before the display is required by Council to consider such an application). Authorisation is also required from the Civil Aviation Authority and the Chief Inspector of Explosives. (Multiple fines of R 1 500 are applicable).
¨ At such a display (should permission be granted) a pyrotechnist and SA Police Services explosives expert must be present at all times. (R 1 500 fines).
¨ No person may deal in fireworks (sell or make available) unless they hold a fireworks license in terms of the Explosives Act as well as the written authority of the Chief Fire Officer.(R 1 500 fine).
The reign of terror which afflicts Johannesburg's large pet population when people indiscriminately (and often criminally) ignite noisy fireworks at all times of the day and night gets worse every year.
Firm enforcement of the bylaws will assist in reducing the noise and panic levels and allow people (and their pets) to plan for "noisy" periods thus producing a quieter, safer environment for all concerned.

Are You Over-Using Your Clicker?
Ed’s Note: This one is for our students who are clicker training their dogs (including me!)
By Aidan Bindoff on 01/11/2007

Browsing the various internet email lists for clicker training, you might get the idea that the clicker is the most over-used tool in clicker training! Let's examine that more closely...

"Over-used" suggests that something is used more often that it should be. What might be the problem with this? I guess your clicker might physically wear-out and stop working. This surely isn't a big deal though, you can always get a new clicker for a couple of dollars.

Maybe the value of the click itself is diminished by over-use? Evidence would suggest that, so long as the click is always followed by a primary reinforcer, the more often a clicker is used, the more value it has. I
would caution that sloppy timing can confuse some dogs and de-value the clicker as a training tool, but providing that your timing is good (practise without a dog until it is) and that you follow up promptly with a variety of primary reinforcers, your clicker should only gain value with repeated use.

Accordingly, following up with an aversive (intentionally or otherwise), or failing to follow up with a primary reinforcer will make your clicker less effective.

So maybe the problem is that the clicker is used when it isn't necessary to use a clicker? The clicker gives you a very precise means of marking tiny little pieces of behaviour. Not all behaviours we wish to reinforce
are tiny. Stays are a good example. Our criteria might be that our dog stays sitting for 20 seconds. If we click, we really aren't adding any useful information. We might as well just toss a treat or a ball. On the other hand, let's imagine our dog is sitting nicely for 20 seconds so we click and treat. Unfortunately, at the precise moment that we clicked, our dog raised his paw... Of course, solving this problem would be pretty straightforward. Simply stopping clicking the resultant paw raises and click only when the paw is on the ground.

So are clickers over-used? Yes, clickers are sometimes used where they don't provide a clear benefit, but I wouldn't get too hung up about it. Make your own choices, but make sure you always use a clicker when you
need accurate timing. Nothing else comes close for effectiveness, convenience and wide availability.


Bond With Your Dog Written by Glynne Anderson
When my son Jan was 12 years old he virtually drove me insane, begging for a puppy of his own. And like all mothers do, I eventually collapsed under pressure and surrendered, but not without a seriously good fight. But coming from a legal family and having grave doubts about my son's good intentions, I drew up a promissory note for him to sign, in which he agreed to be the sole caregiver of his new responsibility and if he reneged his dog would instantly become my property and he would lose all custody rights. So the document was witnessed, signed and framed in duplicate as a reminder of his solemn oath. And so baby Border Collie, Cassy arrived to elevate his happiness and my stress levels. In all fairness things went very well for about six months and then suddenly the wheels came off. Overnight, Jan discovered girls ... and the rest, along with the legal document, was history.

So, as trillions of mothers before me, I took over the duty of looking after and training young Cassy who was one very smart cookie and excelled in the competitive field. Like all dogs he adored working and so we spent mega hours training and competing together. But the story does not end there because while Mr Cass tolerated me, he did so with long, selfish teeth because the truth was he only had eyes for Jan. But the true drama only started when his "dad" left home for military duty. I honestly thought the dog had developed a terminal disease as he lost interest in all things dear to his Border Collie heart. But the vets were puzzled as they could find no medical reason for his sudden dramatic change in behaviour. It was only much later when Jan came home on a visit, that it became obvious that Cass had been pining for his dearly beloved because in an instant he was cured of his mystery disease. And when Jan later left home to be married, I insisted my Border Collie go too as I could not have endured the doom and gloom and bipolar episodes, for a second time. Cass was happy with his new family and took on the role of devoted protector extremely seriously, faithfully devoting himself to everything and anything Jan loved. Then one night he slipped quietly and peacefully away beside my son's bed, at the ripe old age of 15, never having had eyes for anyone but his beloved "dad" and master. The reason for telling this little story about man’s best friend is a question I received from an overseas reader who contacted me recently wanting help. Here is her dilemma:-
"We have a West Highland Terrier called Lilly who is 18 months old. Our daughter was given the dog for her 16th birthday. She loves her to death and went twice to dog school with her. She's a good dog too, but recently Lilly has slowly and continuously started to ignore our daughter. She jumps for joy when anyone comes home but doesn't even leave her basket when our daughter arrives. What should I do?" And my response is what a pity, because you have missed the most critical stage of your dog's development which is up to the age of 14 weeks. I am afraid the answer, however, is not what you should do, but rather what your daughter should have done when the dog was a pup. And that was to have bonded then, which has obviously not happened ... from the dog's point of view, that is. Unfortunately, Lilly is no longer a pup and has probably bonded with the person with whom she spends the most time. Sadly it may be too late to change the dog’s loyalties now, but I guess it's certainly worth a shot. You see humans just don't get this bonding thing because they usually think that lots of love and affection, and occasionally mad playing of games, are the magic ingredients to win a dog's heart, but they are not. The best way I know how is for the dog to sleep with your daughter and to be with her as much as possible. This usually works a charm when combined with ongoing training classes, feeding the dog herself, grooming her often and taking her for daily walks, which may just do the trick. But, unless your daughter is 100% committed to getting physically involved, she is fighting a losing battle because there are no quick fixes to gaining a dog's affection.


QUESTION AND ANSWER SECTION:

QUESTION:
You have adopted an adult dog ( 18 months old) from a rescue organization. Where should you have the dog sleep at night? A. In a crate. B. In the service porch. C. In your bedroom. D. In a dog house in the back yard.

Answer:
Keeping in mind that these dogs, like foster children, can be feeling insecure about their new membership in your group, it's best to have them sleep in circumstance that are reminiscent of the time in their lives when they felt totally secure; i.e., sleeping with their dam and litter mates.

Therefore, place their bed (or indoor crate) in a bedroom where a person of people are sleeping. Sleep in nearly "infectious" to dogs, who will usually fall asleep, and remain asleep, all through the night.


Question:
What's the best way to avoid a jealousy problem with an adult family dog when a new puppy is going to join the household?
A. See if you can get one of the new drugs for anxiety in dogs and dose the family dog..
B. Make the puppy's arrival mean the family dog gets more attention after it arrives.
C. Underfeed the adult dog for several days, then feed it fully when the puppy moves in.

Answer:
B. And be sure to show the adult dog less attention (enough less that he notices it) for at least 4 days prior to the new pup's arrival. Make the increased attention happy and joyous Don't coddle or try to reassure the dog. That can make him think something is "wrong." Let the puppy adapt to the situation.

Question:
Why do some dogs urinate on their owners?
A. Because they dislike them. B. Because they want to "dominate" them.
C. Because they feel "insecure" about their relationship with them. D. Because they "love" them.

Answer: C (and usually D)
Feelings of insecurity in dogs, and many cats, about their "people" stimulates what is often called "social urine marking" so as to set it apart from pure territorial marking. However, many dogs and cats will spray on strangers who enter their social group or territory: Take it from one behaviour consultant who has "been there." Dogs who have done this are not necessarily aggressively dangerous; they are usually insecure and
socially "bossy" with their owners and strangers. Peeing exclusively on the owner indicates the dog wants to lay claim to someone about whom he or she needs to feel more secure. Once this security is provided,
usually through a differential diagnosis and a well-designed and faithfully executed leadership program for the owner(s), the problem simply goes away.

You have a male, 75 lb. German Shepherd-Labrador Retriever, 11 months old, who was neutered at 6 months of age. He has always been very active, enjoying the evening on-leash walks with you nearly every day of the week. He loves to play fetch and retrieve happily and dependably. Besides a bout with roundworms as a 9-week-old, his health seems excellent. However, when out on the walks for the last two weeks, he has started stopping and resisting walking more than about Two blocks, about a third of your normal walking distance. This started three weeks ago. You got a choke chain collar, but it didn't help, so you're back to using your flat buckle collar.

Question: What kind of help should you seek to overcome the problem?
A. Ask your veterinarian. B. Call a dog trainer. C. Find a behaviour consultant.
D. Get a shock collar.

Answer:
A. Your veterinarian must examine your dog first. This avoids the danger of trying to "train" him to ignore his pain in order to overcome reluctance on the walks. Since 1967, we have found the majority of this type of complaint involves pain; pain from physical problems ranging from pancreatitis to hip dysplasia to spinal misalignments and injuries to pastern sprains... and many other
conditions in between. When any of these have been discovered, then treated
effectively, the balky-doggedness has resolved itself. When there has been no
physical problem involved, the Sof-Touch (TM) Training Safety Leash has worked
wonders.

Question:
Your 21 month old, neutered (at 11 months) male Labrador Retriever has recently
begun to growl and try to attack other dogs through the fence when they come by his front yard. He is also starting to snarl at dogs and strain on the leash when other dogs approach while you are walking him in the neighbourhood. You have scolded him and slapped his rump, but it hasn't calmed him down. He seems to enjoy the walks, lifting his leg on various scent posts along the way, even after he has run out of urine. Why is he getting aggressive and overprotective of his property?

A. It's natural for his age. B. You have done the wrong things during the walks.
C. Urinating off the property on the walks has caused him to extend his territory.

Answer:
A, B and C Partly
A. Your Lab is maturing and, even though neutered, goes through periods when his
territorial protective genes tell him he's more macho than when younger.
B. Allowing him to become preoccupied with other dogs' urine scents primes him
for defensive and aggressive behaviour when he meets them, on or off his own
property.
C. "The world is my toilet" is an attitude that can develop as he generalizes his territorial boundaries to those scents he leaves away from home. For this reason, it's important to establish a habit of having your dog urinate and void his bladder BEFORE arriving at places where other dogs may be playing or working, such as at Doggy Play Parks, Obedience classes, the beach, mountains, etc., etc., etc. Later, if the exercise of activities causes him to start urinating at those locations, distract him (or her) and take him out of the area and allow him to urinate there. This helps avoid the urinary rituals that can trigger defensive/aggressive behaviour toward other dogs.


THE SIT:

WHY IS THE “SIT” SO IMPORTANT?
Teaching a young pup to sit reliably on command is probably one of the most important lessons a puppy will ever learn!
· When owners arrive home – when visitors appear, or if the puppy is excited, he can not jump up at people, if he is in the “sit’ position.
· If he is doing something the owner disapproves of – he will stop immediately and cannot continue misbehaving if he is in the “sit” position.
· If he runs away from his owner or bolts to chase the cat/kids on bicycles etc – he cannot continue if he is in the “sit” position.
· If he is showing aggression to someone or something – it cannot go any further, if he is in the “sit” position.
· There are numerous behaviours that can be interrupted/redirected with a “sit”
· All pups and dog should be taught to sit, whilst there collars and leashes are being put on before going for a walk or training class!
· If an owner teaches his puppy nothing else in his entire life but a robot like “sit” on command, they will have an easier dog to live with. Make it your mission in life to ensure that you teach pups and owners to perform and perfect a completely reliable sit!

TEACHING THE “EASY” SIT:
· An easy way to teach him to “sit” on command is by the use of a food lure or his favourite toy as a motivation. Have the pup on his collar and leash for control. If performing the exercise standing you can pup a foot on the end of the leash, so that both hands are free). If sitting, the leash can be tucked under a knee etc.
Sit on the floor, holding his toy/treat in your right hand, and if possible have the pup on your left hand side, or facing you. For later training it is a good idea to perform as many of these exercises as you can, with the pup on your left hand side, as in later more formal training he will have to learn to “heel” on your left hand side.
Hold the treat parallel with the puppy’s nose, making sure that he is focused on it (try this only on an empty stomach.) Now very slowly, lift your hand up and move it backwards (into the pup face) keeping the treat at licking distance, attached to the pup’s nose. Do not move your hand too quickly or the pup will bounce around and loose interest. The pup in his effort to reach the food will automatically go into the “sit” position.
Hold the food at the appropriate angle to keep him in the “sit” position for a few
seconds while he is licking the treat simultaneously repeating the word “sit” with a smile and lots of verbal praise (don’t touch too much or you will excite the pup and he will move!) Release the pup and let him finish his treat with lots of verbal praise.
NOTE: Most owners teach their pups to “sit” facing them, which gives both owner and pup gratification. The pup is rewarded by the owner’s eye contact, sound, smell and presence. Once habituated, it is often very difficult to re-teach the pup to then sit on the handler’s left hand side. To avoid this becoming a habit, from the beginning, rather encourage puppies to sit and perform a variety of exercises on the handlers left hand side

POSSIBLE “SIT” PROBLEMS:

1. When the puppy sits he is facing the wrong way:
The pup wants to swing around to face the owner and is unhappy sitting on the owner’s left hand side.

Do not let the handler use his/her leash to force the pup to the correct position.
Do not use fingertips or hands to force the pup into the correct position.
Do not loose patience or raise your voice!

Solution:
a) Use a physical barrier to restrict the puppy’s movement. Or if your are working in a room or structure, use one of the corners to limit the puppy’s opportunity to “back” away.

b) With the owner kneeling and the pup on the left hand side - gently wedge the pup between your forearm and left leg – limiting the pup’s options.

2. The “hand shy” puppy:
This is a result of unintentional learning and is caused by thoughtless grabbing. Occasionally caused by lack of contact and punishment, it is more often caused by ignorance and inappropriate rough play / face hitting (sometimes as a result of annoyance). It may also be caused by over enthusiastic facial petting and praise, which pups find intimidating. When the cause of hand shy dogs and puppies is pointed out to owners they often are horrified and feel extremely guilty. This bad habit is easily formed by the owners, and instructors need to be patient and vigilant to rid handlers of this habit.

Handlers should use slow deliberate hand movements, and if ever necessary to move or physically manipulate the pup, (for example to insist on a straight sit,) handlers should never move or physically manipulate a pup using the curve of your fingers! Use flat closed hands.

3. The “leash pulling” handler:
Handlers who over-use the leash are very common. This mindset usually comes from archaic training methods that were based on correction and punishment.
Problems resulting from over use of the leash:
A shy puppy that is constantly pulled on the leash when walking or being worked will result in a dog that is likely to lag and be a slow worker.
If the pup is confident and bouncy – it could result in teaching the pup that it is acceptable to pull and have tension on the leash.
The pup learns that he only has to be obedient and comply with his handlers instructions when on leash! The minute the leash/collar is removed the dog becomes selectively “deaf” and disobedient!

Solution:
If the area is safe and escape-proof – remove the leash.
Tie the end of the leash to the handler’s belt or moon / treat bag.
Let someone else hold the leash (keep it loose) whilst the handler is working the puppy.




6b. EASY DOWN:
Using the same basic principle as when teaching the sit.
The object of this exercise is to get the puppy to lie down on command by using a food or toy lure.

1. Begin with the pup in the newly learned “Sit” position. The puppy should be on leash as before, and ideally the pup should be on the handler’s left hand side facing the same direction as the handler.
2. The handler should have the treat in the hand, level with the pups nose (he can lick it as he works.) The handler should slowly bring the hand with the food down towards the middle of his front paws aiming for the floor. As it is about to connect with the ground very slowly draw the food hand fractionally forward – just enough to lure him into the “Down” position, this is accompanied with the soft command “Down” given in a gentle happy tone of voice In effort to reach the treat the puppy will automatically lie down!
4. Once he is in the down position, keep the food hand still so he may feed, and repeat the command “Down” accompanied with verbal praise in a jolly manner so that he can associate the command with the action.
5. Again – immediately praise and reward.

NOTE:
The “Down” is an extremely vulnerable position, and many less confident or nervous puppies are not always so keen to comply.

Depending on the age group – the exercise can be postponed until a few lessons down the line, when the pup’s confidence has increased.
If the fear behaviour is mild, then the handler should simply kneel on the floor, and wedge the pup gently on their left hand side, between the left forearm and the left knee. The pup can then be gently assisted into the down by slowly and gently drawing his front legs forward and down with an accompanying treat and lots of praise.


That’s all for now folks, Please don’t forget to send me any news, views and even complaints. I managed to cover quite a lot in this issue and hope you all enjoyed the content.
Until next time
Regards
Louise
P.S. Gift vouchers are now available for all kinds of grooming, from Gentle Paws. They make a great gift - Christmas is just around the corner!
Contact Emma at 082-923-9317