Paws News April 2009

“Paws Abilities” - Behaviour & Learning Centre
Newsletter Number –29 - April 2009


A warm hello to all Paws family and friends,
I would like to extend a huge thank you to all the Paws Abilities Student and Friends who gave up a day of training to attend and participate in the Benoni High School Annual Dog Walk, which was put together for the Benoni SPCA. Thank You Everyone – the turnout was absolutely, fantastic – with nearly 400 dogs turning out for a wonderful morning of fun in the sun!

A great time was had by all and after the walk, which was lead by Chris Boyle (Ex Chair of Benoni SPCA) and his famous assistance dog Pringle. As they went on their walk - dogs from each category were evaluated and prizes were handed out. This was one of the best-behaved groups of dogs I have seen in a long time. No aggression, no fights – great manners and lots of loving owners.

A great thank you goes to my fellow judges, Chris Boyle and Di Shroder for all their hard work, and I would like to mention the wonderful “runners” / scholars from the school who dashed too and fro for us getting entrants numbers so we could put together the short lists – well done kids – you were a great help.

In addition, a big thank you must also go to Benoni High School and all the staff who were involved in promoting and helping on the day.

The East Rand is indeed blessed to have a school who cares so much for the less fortunate animals, and a public who rise to the occasion each and every year! Again, thanks to everyone involved!


THE POWER OF THE INTERNET – SEE HOW WE CAN MAKE A DIFFERENCE! Recently, some “real” fur items slipped through in Mr Price Home, due to mislabelling. A “Fur Free” member brought it to “Fur Free’s” attention and they enquired about it. Mr Price’s response was truly amazing, and “Fur Free” would like to encourage everyone to support them as much as possible!
From: Nikki Beukes [mailto:NBeukes@mrpricegroup.com] Sent: 19 March 2009 12:21 PM
Hi Anneke
As promised, I would respond to you with regards to the animal fur product in our stores. We regret to say that there were 3 items in our stores that were real fur. We humbly do apologise for this as we were not aware of it at the time the order was placed.
With immediate effect we have instructed the stores to remove from the shop floors and destroy the goods. We have also responded to the factory in China and no future business will be done with them, from Mr Price Home.
Thank you for bringing this to our attention. We will support your organization to the full.
Many Thanks

Nikki Otto
Mr Price Home
Retail Manager

65 Masabalala Yengwa Avenue (previously NMR avenue)
Head Office, Upper Level
North Concourse,
Durban Station
Durban
4001
Tel: 031 - 3108842
Cell: 083 401 4334www.mrpricehome.com


MEDIA STATEMENT ISSUED ON 23 MARCH 2009
CONTACT CHRISTINE KUCH ON 011-907-3590 OR 082 828 0337

POLICE DOGS – THE FULL PICTURE!
PLUS, WHAT HAPPENS AFTER 2010?

Media appeals asking individuals to donate their pets to the South African Police Service (SAPS) are not telling the whole story according to the National Council of SPCAs.

The SAPS has a recruitment drive ahead of 2010 and the public is being asked to assist by donating dogs to the SAPS.

What they aren’t being told is that not every dog is suitable. Dogs undergo a training process – and those that fail are donated to the SPCA. So please do not conclude that every dog donated remains with the police.

Previously, dogs that were found to be unsuitable were auctioned. The National Council of SPCAs was instrumental in working with the SAPS to have this system changed as it was open to exploitation by breeders plus security companies obtaining dogs this way. There were no welfare checks (background checks on buyers or checks on the properties where the dogs would be taken) when dogs no longer required by the SAPS were sold off in this way.

SPCAs will not supply the police, security companies, defence force or any other company or commercial operation with dogs. Animals adopted from an SPCA go to homes in the sense of domestic properties where the animals will live as and be treated as pets / companion animals. Pre-home checks are carried out. Animals are sterilised before being adopted and a legally binding agreement signed between the individual SPCA and the adopter.

One vital question is what will happen to the dogs once 2010 is over???

Ed’s Note:
My sources inform me that usually some 90% of these dogs fail the stringent (and some people consider it to be excessively harsh) tests. The gunshot test is the first that usually disqualifies over 65%. Most of the dogs are GSD’s and B Collies – both, which possess a genetic predisposition to noise phobia and fear. The next test is an evaluation using agitation to assess suitability for protection work or “manwork” – Fear and stress is the usual motivator and the dog usually acting at that stage out of an exaggerated form of self-preservation. Bully tactics are the usual training method used. Compulsion and force – Obey or else! Another problem is that we also have fewer and fewer qualified members of the SAPS who are qualified to actually evaluate these dogs.

Bear in mind these are often family pets who are dumped at the kennels and you know what – often stay in them for a very, very long time before the government decides that they need to get rid of their “surplus government property”! This is what they are by law!

To give you an idea of conditions – Several years ago I attended a course, which was hosted at one of the police training centres. One of the practical exercises was to work with some young barely trained German Shepherd X Belgium Shepherd dogs. The exercise involved the handler (i.e. me) going to the kennel, putting a leash on the dog, taking it to the training area and performing some basic heelwork and simple training exercises with the dog. We were to be marked on our handling competence.

I must tell you that I have rarely, (in over 35 years of working with dogs), – been presented with young adolescent (7 – 8 months old) dogs, who when entering their kennel, cringed and hid in fear – defecated and urinated in terror – refused (high value) treats when offered)These dogs were not even in particularly good condition, and they were bred by the SAPS – not donated dogs!

As a matter of interest, I wrote a letter of complaint to the relevant authorities in regard to the behavioural issues and conditions I had witnessed. Needles to say no more courses were hosted using the aforementioned facility!


Ed’s Note:
Was going through my files and found these two little gem articles by David Appleby.
Both articles are still as relevant today as they were in the 1990’s. I have found that often we tend to loose sight of the basics and sometimes the “obvious” is as plain as the nose on your face!

THANKS FOR NOTHING (David Appleby)
If someone takes you for granted it probably makes you pretty fed up with them.
At the very least you are likely to be less enthusiastic about repeating any effort involved in helping or pleasing them.

If the person continues to abuse your good will, the time may come when you don’t respond to their wishes at all. With this I mind, spare a thought for your dog and the times that you fail to recognize its willingness to lease you.

There cannot be many dog owners who are unaware of the need to praise their dog when it sits or lies down, on command during training sessions. In casual situations however, such as when the dog sits at the kerb, praising it for responding is often forgotten or reduced to a monosyllabic grunt that conveys very little enthusiasm.

When the owner eventually notices that a lack of response has developed, they may either write the dog off as a training failure, or salvage the situation by encouraging the it to do what is required by praising it in an animated and effervescent style and/or by using tidbits.

This assumes that the owner is not a bully who adopts the “do what I tell you, or I will hurt you” method. The consequence of this unkind and unscientific approach, is frequent smacks, from hands the dog is supposed to trust, and/or leash delivered jerks on the neck. The jerk being the one on the other end of the lead.

To return to the point before I was wax lyrical about the sins of punitive dog training. In any event the prescribed technique is one that requires that appropriate behaviour is not taken for granted, but is rewarded effectively so as
to reinforce it, and prevent canine apathy.

Recall is a classic example of a situation where owners sometimes take their dogs for granted, and eventually show little or no appreciation for the fact that the dog comes back. This contrasts dramatically with the owner’s behaviour
when their dog was first let of the lead in a public place. Then their voice had a sense of urgency in its tone that betrayed apprehension about whether their dog would indeed come when called, or run off despite the training carried out at home. When the dog does come back to its owner, it is smothered by the relief driven praise it receives, making it willing to come back with more enthusiasm on the next occasion. As the days pass and the dog’s recall becomes reliable, the owner may start to take it for granted. Gone are the euphoric displays of delight when the dog returns. As a result, the dog may start to amble up in its own time, or allow itself to be distracted with increasing regularity.

The owner may feel frustrated that their dog does not come back as quickly as it used to, but why should it? What is the incentive? Having the lead clipped on because the owner wants to go home? I don’t think so.

Lets take this to extremes. The next few times you take your dog for a walk encourage it to come back to you and give it lots of praise every, and I mean every, time it looks at you. If your dog is not very responsive to praise, produce a tidbit from your pocket each time you praise it. You should find that your dog becomes attentive and looks at you with increasing frequency, because you are reinforcing the behaviour. This technique will put you in a position where you respond to your dog’s attempts to communicate by looking at you, which is an appropriate behaviour that often goes unnoticed let alone rewarded by most owners.

So far I have concentrated on the obvious subject of rewarding a dog’s appropriate response to its owners commands and wishes, but on many occasions a dog should be rewarded for doing nothing. If you find that difficult to believe,
just think how many times you would be grateful if your dog did not react to something or to a particular situation. If you are one of the lucky people whose dog does not over react to things, just think how you would feel if they did. Despite this, we all have a tendency to ignore our dog when it behaves in a manner we find convenient. Lets look at some examples.

When was the last time you praised your dog for lying down quietly whilst you watched television? If you feel that you can not see the point, you should be made aware that some dogs learn to get their owners attention away from the
television by running round the room, stealing items that it is attracted to by scent, such a tea towel, underwear or tissues from the waste paper bin.

Some dogs will repeat anything that causes their owners to leap into action and give them some attention, rather than just sitting there. To prevent or stop the problem, reward your dog for doing nothing. Of course the rewards have to come at the time your dog is lying down quietly. If you praise it when it gets up at the end of a film, you will reward, and therefore reinforce, movement rather than restfulness.

Most people, even most dog owners, don’t like the experience of excitable dogs jumping up at them as they enter a home. If a dog does start to jump up, its owners are likely to make an effort to stop the problem. Frequently these
attempts are futile because the dog finds the owners activity exciting, which results in yet more jumping up, both on that occasion, and on future occasions when the dog is presented with a similar situation. Faced with the fact that it is possible for all dogs to develop the anti-social behaviour of jumping up, failing to reward a dog for keeping its paws on the ground is ungrateful and short sighted . If you reward your dog for not jumping up, it will learn that it gets affection and attention when it remains calm, which will encourage it to remain calm in future.

Many dog owners are distressed by the fact that their dogs become difficult to handle when they encounter another dog on a walk.

Hence it is surprising that so many owners appear to give little thought to praising their dog for not reacting to the other dogs, when it is walked past them on a lead. In contrast, they are likely to come down on their dogs like a tonne of bricks if they are distracted or show any aggression towards other dogs.


Unfortunately, this can mean that the dog becomes more inclined to react to the presence of other dogs because its owner becomes animated if it does, but ignores it if it does nothing.

Now that I have started you off, you can probably think of many situations where you should praise your dog for doing nothing, rather than ignoring it, because its behaviour is convenient. For a final example just think how sick you would feel if your loving Fido landed you in court because it snapped at a child that dashed past while you were walking him or her on a lead. Next time it does not happen show Fido some gratitude, and at the same time do yourself a favour by rewarding and reinforcing appropriate behaviour.
©: David Appleby


DOG TRAINING CLASSES. WHO ARE THEY FOR?
By David Appleby©

Ideally they should be a place where dogs of good temperament go, so that their owners can learn the techniques necessary for their training. If this is done well, progress will be achieved, both in the training environment and in everyday life. The better behaved the dog is, the more socially acceptable it will be. For this process to have the best chance of success main-stream training classes should have an atmosphere in which owner and dog alike can relax and learn.

Unfortunately this atmosphere can be disrupted by problem dogs; making it difficult for owners to learn, problem dog owners to find the help they need, and class instructors to teach.

Particularly if their problems are antisocial, dogs with behavioural problems often detrimentally affect the training and behaviour of other dogs present in a class.

For example, if a dog is fearful of other dogs and displays aggression
towards them, it may cause other dogs to learn to be defensive at worst and make it more difficult for them and their owners to concentrate at best.

The mainstream dog training class can also reduce the potential of dogs with behaviour problems themselves because their special needs are not addressed. There are also consequences associated with their presence that go beyond being disruptive and teaching other dogs inappropriate patterns of behaviour. These include the fact that the majority of the trainer's attention has to be given to these dogs and their handlers. The safety of other people and their dogs can be put at risk and the ability of the trainer may be unjustifiably called into question if they "can't sort this one out". These factors often result in owners leaving a training club and vowing never to return.

Furthermore the confidence of the problem dog owner can be detrimentally affected, having implications for
their already stressed relationship with the dog and in some cases euthanased or re-homing options may even be considered. The points above should illustrate why the mainstream dog training class should be where well-mannered dogs go to learn. Understandably however, many owners only think of taking their dog to training classes after it has developed problem behaviour and so it is presently not unusual for dogs with behaviour problems to be mixed with those of good temperament.

So where should problem dogs go?
Owners of dogs with maladaptive behaviour require advice that meets their individual needs and the companion animal behaviour counsellor is ideally placed to initially consult an owner whose dog exhibits problem behaviour. However,
behaviour modification is an on-going process during which owners often need local support for the implementation of the program suggested by the counsellor and access to resources.

There is, therefore, a growing need for trainers to offer local facilities to which dogs can be referred by pet behaviour counsellors for continuing improvement. For this reason the development of rehabilitation groups cannot come soon enough.

As a general rule, rehabilitation offers the opportunity for a dog to learn or re-train in an environment that replicates the context[s] in which the problem behaviour is displayed, in a controlled manner.There are numerous reasons for a referral approach. Problem behaviour can reflect a complex interaction between factors both internal and external to the dog and success requires the cause, and not just the symptoms, of the problem to be identified and addressed, otherwise the problem could just be expressed in another way.

So whilst the owner may be pleased with the initial results, the long-term implications of trying to stop what a dog does without considering why it does it can be far reaching, which is a major reason why pet behaviour counselling is both time-consuming and intensive.

Additionally, professional counsellors only work on veterinary referral because it is essential that possible physical causes for problem behaviour are investigated and treated or excluded prior to the introduction of a modification program.

This referral between trainer and pet behaviour counsellor should work in both directions. For example, if a dog arrives at a beginner's class and it is apparent that the problems are more complex than a training approach can
address, referral to a pet behaviour counsellor may be in the dog and owner's best interest. This would have to be after examination to eliminate medical problems and further referral by their veterinary surgeon.
When sufficient progress has been made using the modification program advised, it is likely that the client will be referred back to the trainer’s rehabilitation service to continue to reinforce the new patterns of behaviour.

Who should offer rehabilitation facilities?
In addition to the important aspect of practical experience, successful rehabilitation work requires an understanding of canine ethology, learning theory, human/animal psychology, and good teaching and communication skills,
[human/human as well as human/canine]. Fortunately there are various opportunities to expand knowledge available to the trainer interested in type of work in the form of symposiums, seminars and courses.

There are other considerations such as the need for adequate insurance and the location. There is an overwhelming consensus amongst those who do rehabilitation work that a successful rehabilitation group requires safe, secure outdoor facilities. Of course, it is beneficial if this is combined with an indoor facility which can be utilized for initial discussions, progress evaluations, video viewing, etc.

Two-level approach
The problem dog owner's primary need is to gain the ability and confidence to deal with their specific problem. To ensure that this need is catered for a two-level approach is appropriate. Level one allows individual assessment of the
owner's needs and their relationship with their dog, and also provides the opportunity to develop good communication and the training skills. Level two involves joining a group.

Moving into a group situation does not mean that the problem dogs are worked together whilst their problems continue. Where other dogs are required as part of a program of behaviour modification the trainer arranges for stooges of good temperament. Here the term ‘group’ refers to the handlers being brought together once they have developed some confidence and achieved some initial objectives. The group situation has many positive consequences. Importantly the handlers feel they are no longer alone. The cohesion of the group through common interest and experience can develop their confidence and provide a network of support. Of course the objective of rehabilitation groups is that those attending them will be able to enter into main stream classes or will no longer require support because they can reintegrate with the rest of canine and human society.

Ed’s Note
The above article describes exactly how such issues are dealt with at Paws Abilities
1. The dog training environment is not a suitable platform to solve real behavioural problems!
2. Behaviour modification is really a counselling session, aimed specifically at behaviour modification, or elimination of unwanted behaviour – this is not a training session – but a counselling session.
3. Private one on one individual training lessons to provide the owner with handling skills..
4. Eventual integration into a mixed group / class.
4.
This article is based on the booklet Running Rehabilitation Groups by Kym Lawrence who is a member of the APBC.
©: David Appleby 1999


SCENT GAMES by John Rice & Suzanne Clothier

Long before you pull out the tracking flags, dust off the utility articles or decide that your dog needs to learn how to use his nose, he's busy using his nose to explore his world. The sense of smell is functional at birth, and from the moment he's born, your dog lives in a world rich with scents. All you need to do is teach the dog specifically how you want him
to use his astonishing olfactory powers. The easiest way to accomplish this is through games. The Scent Work Games presented below are suitable for any breed at any age from 6 weeks on, but we recommend strongly that these games be a regular part of your puppy's development. All of these games stress reliance on his nose, not his eyesight.

To avoid confusing your dog, we recommend you choose one word which indicates food or dog toys (we use "SEEK"), and a completely different word for objects with human scent or people themselves (we use "FIND IT").

In this fashion, the dog is always clear about WHAT he's looking for with his nose and will not confuse food scents with human scent. One of the most common problems with using food to teach scent discrimination or tracking is that you must ultimately teach the dog that the food is not what you really meant at all!

WHICH HAND?
This is the simplest of all games. With food or a toy in only one hand, present both closed hands to the dog. Ask him, "Which one?" You may improve upon this game by insisting he touch with a paw or scratch lightly at the correct hand before receiving his treat, or simply have his nose bump your hand. If he gets it wrong, show him the correct hand but DO NOT give the treat! Just try again. Add lots of dramatic flair to this - dogs love a good show.

LIGHTS OUT:
This one is great fun for the dog. Show your dog a treat (preferably crunchy) or his favourite toy, and then place it out of his sight but easily accessible in a dark room. Tell him to SEEK - follow him in to listen for his success which you will praise enthusiastically. Obviously, the rewards for the dog are multiple - he gets a treat or finds his toy plus a very happy handler. If using a toy, be sure to reward his find with some play before starting again. When multiple treats or toys are used, this particular game helps to build persistence and trust in the handler. The dog may initially find only 2 out of 3 treats, but he quickly discovers that persistence in searching when you give the SEEK command pays off. He learns to believe you - there really is another one there! You can increase the difficulty of LIGHTS OUT by hiding the cookies in less accessible places (like in a shoe, or placed on a low shelf.) This can be practiced outdoors as well as in your car, or a parking lot or anywhere else!

HIDE & SEEK:
This is a doggy favourite best played at night or in a darkened house initially. Partially open closets are great (closed closets may not allow sufficient scent to escape), as are shower stalls/tubs with the curtain drawn, standing behind an open door, crouching behind a bush, standing very still near a tree (dogs, like all predators, distinguish movement much better than stationary objects) or sitting on a picnic table or laying across your car's trunk, or wherever!

To add to the dog's eagerness (or in the event that you are unable to sneak away or can't leave the dog), have someone hold the dog. They should be verbally exciting to the dog, asking, "Where did she go? What is she gets lost? Can you FIND her?" and release the dog with a FIND IT command.

Give the dog a chance to work it out, but if he passes you more than twice, give him a "clue" by making a noise AFTER he's passed you the third time.

A good clue is a distinctive but brief sound, such as clearing your throat or a short whistle that does not allow the dog to find you by using his hearing, but helps him target the general area you are in for further investigation with his nose. However the dog finds you, tons of praise is to be heaped upon his head, and of course a treat or two never hurts. Toy motivated dogs will delight in a game of fetch or tugging as a reward.

As the dog gets more skilled at HIDE & SEEK, you can increase the difficulty of the game by throwing a blanket or tarp over yourself, not moving until the dog actually touches you, or even hiding in an area that the dog can smell you, see you (or part of you) but cannot get to you. This is useful for teaching a scratch or bark alert if desired (commonly used in drug work/search and rescue training). ALWAYS praise the dog generously for his brilliance.
WHAT A KLUTZ:
This game allows you to show the dog how important his nose is to you. Dogs like to feel useful, and this particular game helps boost a dog's confidence and self importance. As you are walking, discreetly drop an object you have been carrying or held in your pocket. Continue walking for 10-15 steps, then stop as if mildly concerned, patting your pockets and looking around. Here's your chance to really put on a performance! Ask the dog, "Where is it? Can you help? Can you FIND IT?"

Begin walking back towards the spot where you dropped the article, encouraging the dog to sniff the ground by pointing and telling him to FIND IT. As you get closer to the object, give the dog a little room so that he can find it all by himself. If he needs help, try a subtle kick of the object (after all, you are the klutz who dropped it - why not go ahead and trip over it too?) to bring it to his attention while you pretend not to notice.
Once the dog indicates the article, make a huge fuss over this genius who has saved you from dropping an old glove! Vary the type of article you use, and be sure to include metal objects such as car keys, a crumpled soda can, even a ring or bracelet you have worn.

Obviously, be careful when you drop these and be sure you can find them again! Don't use valuable items - just facsimiles. Your dog's ability and willingness to work on metal objects will be helpful in the Utility ring, but more importantly, this skill could come in very handy some day should you lose your car keys. NOTE: Metal/hard objects do not hold scent as well as fabric or leather. This does not mean that your dog can't find them, just that his reaction may be different and he will probably have to work closer to the object before locating it.

The difficulty of WHAT A KLUTZ can be increased by: longer periods of time between the drop and the search, having the object thrown to the side or even off the path you are travelling, and multiple object drops. Especially fun are surprise set-ups where you plant an object along a path before taking the dog that way. You may point out the object to the dog with a question of "What's that?" and praise him for investigating, or walk past it and then send him back with a FIND IT command. This is a great preparation for tracking dogs who must learn to indicate on found items. A final twist for tracking prospects is the addition of objects dropped by people other than yourself. Be warned - this can be so much fun for the dog that he'll gladly show you all the neat trash dropped by other folks along the street, in the rest areas, etc.! John had been shown some unusual objects by his dogs while simply out walking.

3-2-1-FIND IT:
Use a favourite toy or even just a stick that you come across in the woods. After a few moments of playing with object, hold the dog as you throw the object into grass, brush, woods thick enough to lightly disguise the object. The dog may see and "mark" the fall of the object, but as the difficulty of the game increases, this will only help
him define the area he needs to search. Once the object has landed and stopped moving, count to 3 before releasing the dog to "FIND IT." You may gradually increase the time before releasing the dog, and of course, the heaviness of the cover (one good reason to avoid mowing your lawn regularly!)

THINGS THAT GET LOST IN THE NIGHT:
Using the same rules as 3-2-1-Find It, this game relies on the natural cover of darkness to encourage the dog to use his nose. Instead of marking the fall with his eyes, your dog may listen carefully. Once again, this only helps the dog narrow the area he will have to search. This can be played inside (throwing the object into a dark closet, corner or room) or outside. When beginning this game, don't get too enthusiastic and throw the toy very far. The point of all these games is success, not frustration for the dog. Also, be sure YOU know where the heck it landed in case the dog needs some help.

ONE & ONLY:
This is a more advanced scent game, but extremely useful to teach the dog the concept that only one object is desired from a group of similar objects. I normally start this with tennis balls (my dogs' favourites). Play with the dog for several minutes with the One & Only object you'll want the dog to find. This allows your scent (as well as
lots of good dog spit) to thoroughly cover the object. Then move off to an area where you have planted several similar objects. Throw the One & Only into that area, using a 3-2-1-Find It technique. If the dog picks up an incorrect object, say nothing as you take it and put it down or pocket it, but with enthusiasm, give the FIND IT command again, leading the dog back to the general area to be searched if needed.

Obviously, when the dog gets it right, reward this with a minute or two of play before repeating ONE & ONLY again. This can be combined with the more difficult levels of 3-2-1-FIND IT for really advanced discrimination by the dog.

Once your dog has mastered these games, any formal scent discrimination exercise becomes a snap for that educated nose. Furthermore, you have learned to understand just how powerfully discriminating a dog's nose can be, and to trust that when it comes to working in a world of scent, your best bet is to follow the guy who knows what he's doing - your dog.


CHILD SAFETY AROUND OTHER PEOPLE'S DOGS
Your dog won't bite - but what about your child's friend's dogs? Half of all children are bitten by a dog by the time they are 12 years old and the majority of these are bites by a dog that the child knows. Your child is more likely to be bitten by your own dog, or a dog belonging to a friend, neighbour or relative than by a strange dog running loose.

It is your responsibility as a parent to ensure the safety of your children,
so... ………………. If your kids visit houses where there are dogs, ensure that the dog is separated from the children, or supervised if the children are allowed to play with the dog or in the presence of the dog.

õ Meet the dog for yourself - if you have any worries then insist that the dog is crated when your child visits - or invite the other child to your house instead.
õ If your children report that the friend's dog growled, snapped, barked at them, urinated in the house in their presence or did anything that worried or surprised your child then your child should not be allowed to return to that house unless the dog is crated at all times when children are present.
õ Remember that 50% of all children are bitten by a dog before they are 12 and most of these bites are at someone's home by a known dog.
õ Ensure that your children know how to read basic dog body language and know to wait for the friend's dog to approach them when they visit (if they must interact with the dog) and know to avoid dangerous interactions with the dog -
õ Teach children only to pet happy dogs and only when the adult owner is present.
It is your responsibility as a dog owner to make sure that your dog does not bite or frighten visiting children,
So …………….. Supervise at all times and if you can't supervise then separate children and dogs.
õ Create kid and dog "zones" using a crate or other barriers so that both dog and kids can be comfortable, happy and safe.
õ Never allow children to play rough games with the dog - enforce Rules in your house.
õ Don't be offended if another parent asks you to keep your dog separate from their child.
õ Child-proof your dog - Read the book Child Proofing Your Puppy by Brian Kilcommons or contact an accredited animal behaviour consultant who will perform an evaluation with your dog – and put together a child-proof programme for your dog.
õ Learn more about bite prevention
õ Learn more about dog communication
õ Be sure that your dog does not guard food or possessions. A dog like this is potentially very dangerous and should be kept separate from children.


Tips for Dog Owners - child safety around dogs

The 3 Most Important Dog Owners Can Do for Dog Bite Prevention...

1. Spay or Neuter Your Dog - Neutered pets are calmer, healthier and less likely to be aggressive than if they are left unaltered. Neutering prevents unwanted dogs that may end up in shelters or in less than ideal conditions where they may grow up to be poorly socialized or aggressive.

2. Condition Your Dog For the World - You can't prepare the world for your dog, but you can prepare your dog for the world. Give your puppy lots of new positive experiences - Train using positive methods and do not pin, shake, roll or otherwise act aggressively with your puppy or dog. These methods can result in a dog that redirects its aggression toward weaker family members such as children. Learn to read your dog's body language. Teach your dog to accept human handling using positive methods.

3. Supervise Your Dog - Supervise your dog at all times around children - even if the dog knows the children. Do not allow children to hug and kiss or otherwise maul the dog. If visiting children are bothering your dog, put the dog away or send the children home.


Dog bite prevention and dog communication - how to read dog body language and prevent a dog bite
Taken from “prevent a bite” website.

Your dog may be trying to tell you something - are you listening? Dog behaviour is complex and signals that dogs send are often subtle. The following is not intended to be a treatise on dog behaviour. It is intended to alert parents to situations that could compromise child safety around dogs.

Parents seeing potential danger signs in their dog's behaviour are encouraged to err on the side of caution and implement dog bite prevention measures (increase supervision and use physical barriers when supervision is not possible) until it can be determined whether the dog is actually a danger to the children and if so, until the problem is resolved through consultation with the appropriate professional.

Many dog bites could be prevented if parents and children were aware of the subtle communication signs that dogs send. A dog may warn that is wants to be left alone by leaving the room, showing a half moon eye, yawning or licking its chops when the kids are bothering it for weeks, months or even years before finally getting the point that is feels it has no choice but to bite.

As children grow, the attitude of the dog may change. Behaviour that the dog tolerated from a baby may no longer be tolerated once the baby starts to walk. An older dog may be less tolerant than he was when he was younger. If you have ever heard yourself say..."My dog is good with the [baby, child, kids], she lets them climb all over her, lie on her and pull her fur. She has never even growled", then you are allowing situations to occur that could easily lead to a bite situation. Dogs do not like being treated this way by children. They may tolerate it, but they don't enjoy it. No
dog should be expected to tolerate repeated rough or inconsiderate handling by children. It is possible to condition dogs to the types of things that children may do, but even a dog that is conditioned to children should not be left unsupervised with them and should have a safe place to which he can retreat from the children.

Learn to Speak Dog and teach your kids too.
In some cases, the dog may be trying to exert control by urinating in your presence. An adult dog (male or female) that intentionally urinates in your house in your presence (or in the presence of guests or children) or on your belongings (in your presence), or on a person or another animal may be sending a message.

If the dog also shows signs of pushy or aggressive behaviour towards family members or visitors then the dog could be very dangerous and there is a risk that this dog could bite anyone who does anything the dog considers insubordinate. Guests, and children (even your own children) could be at risk. Professional help is needed immediately to determine whether there is a bite risk and if possible solve the problem. This may not be a house soiling problem, this may be an aggression problem. Contact an accredited animal behaviourist to book an evaluation – better safe than sorry!

Signs of anxiety that indicate your dog is uncomfortable with the current situation that indicate the need for intervention to prevent the dog from being pushed to the point of biting and to make sure your canine friend is happy and
not being made to feel anxious: one paw raised - very cute - but the dog is not happy and does not want to be petted or bothered. Half moon eye - dog just wants to be left alone - watch for this one when kids are mauling the dog

Watch for any out-of-context behaviour (intervene if these happen during interactions with children - the dog has had enough) - such as: -
õ yawning when not tired
õ licking chops without the presence of food
õ sudden scratching when not itchy
õ sudden biting at paws or other body part
õ sudden sniffing the ground or other object
õ wet dog shake when not wet or dirty
õ dog gets up and leaves an uncomfortable situation (one of these days he may bite rather than leave)
õ turning head away
õ dog rolls over on back in submissive way (please don't hurt me!)
õ tail between legs
õ tail low and only the end is wagging
õ tail between legs and wagging
õ ears sideways for erect eared dog
õ ears back and very rapid panting
õ barking and retreating
õ hiding behind person or object
õ tail down or straight for curly-tailed dog (husky, malamute, pug, chow chow, spitz-type dogs etc.)
õ dog goes into another room away from you and urinates or defecates

All dogs should have a safe place, such as a crate or mat that they can go to when they want to be left alone. All family members and guests should be taught not to bother the dog when he is in his safe place.

Signs of arousal that indicate your dog is interested in something, or trying to decide on a course of action and is not receptive to attention (such as petting from a child) include:
õ ears forward
õ mouth closed
õ eyes intense
õ body rolled forward
õ body tense
õ tail high (may or may not be wagging)
õ slow deliberate tail wag

Signs of a happy dog that is receptive to attention or wants to play:
õ panting, relaxed, happy expression
õ body position relaxed
õ lying with one paw tucked under
õ enthusiastic tail wag
õ tail thumping on floor
õ play bow (front end down; rear end up; tail wagging)

Signs of aggression directed toward you or another person that indicate the need for professional help include the following:
õ growl
õ guarding (dog's own possessions or resting area; favourite human's possessions) against family members or guests - this is a very dangerous situation - children are in immediate danger since they could inadvertently come between dog and a guarded area or object (dog may be continually expanding his guarded area or repertoire of guarded objects unbeknownst to you)
õ snap and miss (the miss was intentional and the dog may not miss the next time)
õ snarl
õ aggressive barking which is not stopped by your command for quiet lunging on or off the leash, with barking or growling
õ bite (other than playful puppy nipping by a puppy)
õ dog raises tail when you or child approach (may not apply to breeds with naturally raised or curled tails - e.g. pug, husky, spitz-type breeds etc.)
õ dog urinates intentionally in the house or on your possessions in your presence or in the presence of children or guests and shows other signs of pushy or aggressive behaviour

If your dog has ever shown these signs, or you have that feeling in the back of your mind that your dog is likely to bite someone, then you should get help from a professional.

Signs of imminent bite:-

õ dog freezes - becomes suddenly stiff
õ dog stands with front legs splayed, head low, looking at you
õ dog curls lip to show teeth

Cease all interaction with dog, do not approach, look away and give dog the opportunity to leave:


SO YOU THING YOU WANT TO BUY A PUPPY??
Taken from “Discover Your Puppy’s Paws Abilities” by Louise Thompson ABC of SA (available on order)

THINGS TO CONSIDER BEFORE BUYING A PUPPY:
Owning a puppy is a privilege, a responsibility and a lifetime commitment! The average dog can live for 12 – 15 years, so this should not be a decision taken lightly. A family should give serious thought and planning to the purchase, before going out to buy a puppy. A puppy is not something that should be bought on a whim, taken on as an act of sympathy or pity, or collected as a fashion statement or a fashion accessory! My first advice to any family is “don’t rush into anything!” Take your time before making any decisions. A lengthy family discussion is a good thing at this time. The following should be fully discussed by the whole family.

ARE YOU A “WORTHY” PROSPECTIVE DOG OWNER?
Are you in a financial position to be able to afford the “privilege” of buying a “suitable” puppy and the continued ongoing financial burden of keeping a dog?

Are you sure that your house and garden (fencing etc) is a safe/suitable and secure environment to keep a puppy/dog?
Are their any other considerations you need to take into account, such as religion, cultural aspects, children with allergies or family health problems etc that could affect any interactions with the puppy?
Does your lifestyle warrant owning a dog?
Do you and your family have the “TIME” and energy it takes to be a responsible dog owner for the next ten to sixteen years? (Longevity is breed specific)
Who is going to be responsible for the care, feeding, grooming and cleaning up after the new puppy?
Where is the pup going to sleep?
Who is going to be responsible for the regular exercise and training of the puppy for the next 10 to 15 years?
When you are away on holiday or business what will happen to the dog/pup?
What breed of pup are you going to choose in order to fit in with your lifestyle and home environment?
Where are you going to purchase a dog/pup?

WHY DO YOU WANT A PUPPY?
This is not quite as silly a question as it sounds! People buy pets for many different reasons and you should be very sure of your motivation. You need to be sure that you truly WANT a puppy and the hassles and responsibilities that come with it

If you are getting a puppy just for the kids – DON’T!
Children as you well know have very short attention spans, the puppy will be a novelty for a while, and then it starts to grow up……… At some stage, the puppy starts to nip the children’s hands, chew up their toys, becomes more demanding and without the correct upbringing and training, soon becomes a damn nuisance! This is the time that most young children seriously start to lose interest!

If you are getting a puppy to teach your children responsibility, DON’T!
You know as a parent, no matter what rules you make, the children are not going to be caring for this pet for the next 10 to 15 years. YOU ARE! So do not try to fool yourself into thinking that the children will care for and look after the puppy, because you know that is not going to happen.



PUPPIES/DOGS ARE NOT!
· Puppies are not - Toys or playthings to keep the kids occupied. They are complex creatures with emotions and feelings, with very specific needs. They are extremely social animals needing lots of love, time, and energy and a “genuine long-term -life commitment” from their owners.
· Puppies are not - Mobile security systems. If you are getting a dog to keep in the yard just to protect your property – DON’T! For a dog to want to protect your family and property, he needs to feel and be included as part of the larger group/pack (family). If the relationship is appropriate and the dog is genetically sound, he will protect you and yours. But, if he is kept in solitary confinement behind four concrete walls with no stimulation and no interaction with your family, and/or is kept isolated from the world at large, then he will have no reason to protect anything but HIMSELF. If this is the case, then rather go out and spend the money on a good security system.
· Puppies are not - A fashion statement nor a status symbol!
With each new doggie movie that is released, hoards of unscrupulous back yard breeders and puppy mills mass-produce poor specimens of puppies for the gullible public to buy! The fashion changes with each new film release!
The public needs to understand that each dog you see starring in a film has been specially researched, selected, bred, and trained for the part. It would therefore be illogical to think that each individual dog of each breed has the same character, nature, or is equal in trainability to his film star counterpart!
· Puppies are not: - A child substitute!
If you are getting a puppy for this reason what is the position of the dog going to be when you become a harassed new mom? Is this pet going to end up in “doggie jail” – condemned to a life alone, in the back garden, lonely, rejected, neglected and forgotten?

CAN YOU AFFORD TO KEEP A DOG?
Dogs are expensive to purchase and maintain. The following will give you an idea of what is involved.
· Cost of purchasing from a reputable breeder. Or even (more ideally) an adoption from a shelter or SPCA
· Cost of safe fencing and securing the immediate environment.
· Cost of bedding and sleeping arrangements.
· Cost of good quality food and hygienic safe feed/water dishes.
· Cost of regular parasite control, both external (fleas/ticks) and internal (de-worming.) This is an ongoing cost, monthly for external parasites (fleas/ticks) and every three to four months or so for internal parasites (worms), for the rest of the dog’s life! If these things are neglected both the dog and the family’s heath can be compromised. Certain animal parasites such as tapeworms can be transmitted to humans!
· Biting flies can also be a problem and in the summer months preventative fly repellent will need to be applied every couple of days.
· Cost of brushes and grooming equipment - dog shampoos, dips etc.
· Cost of professional grooming and clipping. This is specific to certain breeds and includes breeds such as the French Poodle, which needs regular bathing, clipping, and brushing out.
· Cost of medical bills due to ill health or genetic problems.
If your dog/puppy gets ill, surgery and the veterinary bills can be very costly. A Pet’s Medical Aid could be considered.
· Cost of sterilisation for both dog and bitch puppies at about six months of age. Neutered male dogs and spayed female bitches make the best house pets with various other advantages including longevity!
· Cost of kennelling the animal when you are away on holiday or business or the cost of paying someone to “house sit” and be a primary care giver.
· Cost of daily cleaning up after the pup – pups and dogs pee and poop a LOT!
· Cost of training classes and training equipment.
· Cost of entertainment / dog toys / chew items for teething, etc.
· Cost of replacement for all the goodies that the puppy is going to destroy!

STILL CONVINCED YOU WANT TO BUY A PUPPY?

DO YOU HAVE THE “TIME” TO CARE FOR, RAISE AND EDUCATE A PUPPY?
Owning a dog is extremely time-consuming. Training, exercising, feeding, grooming and cleaning up after a dog all take time. As a prospective dog owner you must know that “time” is man’s most valuable commodity and, as the world seems to get smaller and busier by the day, you need to be sure that you are going to have enough time to meet all the future needs of your pup. Again I stress this can be for the next 12 years or so! The following will give you an idea of just what is involved in the daily routine of keeping a dog.

# Feeding: The average seven-week-old pup is fed four times per day. From about six months of age, pups are fed three times per day. The average adult dog is fed twice a day.
# Exercise: Dogs (depending on breed) need to be exercised off the property at least three to four times per week. This is for mental stimulation as well as exercise and to avoid behavioural problems such as confinement stress and the development of destructive behaviours.
# Grooming: This depends on the breed of dog and the individual type of coat. With a short haired breed such as a Labrador or a Staffordshire Terrier you could get away with a quick rub over with a grooming glove, a couple of times a week. A longhaired breed such as a Border Collie would need daily brushing out. Breeds such as the French Poodle need regular professional attention.
# Training: With a tiny puppy you will need to spend a couple of minutes several times a day for learning. An adult dog will need a session of about 15 minutes several times a week. This is not only for learning but also for mental stimulation and discipline.
# Cleaning up: Dogs and puppies eliminate (toilet) several times a day. For reasons of hygiene for both pet and the family, faeces need to be picked up at least once a day.
# Washing: Blankets, bedding and sleeping areas will also need to be washed every week and regularly treated with a preventative tick/flea product.
# Washing up: Feed dishes need to be washed after each meal to stop attracting flies and the water bowl should be changed, washed and refilled daily.

As you can see from the above, owning and bringing up a dog is very time consuming, energy consuming and costly!

Still convinced that you want to buy a Puppy?


What is your dog's personality? (Taken from a behaviour web site)
Although the term "personality" may not be appropriate to describe a canine companion's characteristics, dogs do have individual strength and weaknesses that make up the dog's temperament. Knowing your dog's temperament will help you decide how to raise your dog. You may even want to find a dog trainer with experience motivating dogs just like yours. You can also use temperament characteristics to help you select a dog that will best adapt to your family and lifestyle.

TESTING
Much has been written about temperament testing. Research about reliability is not all positive. Canine behaviourists
evaluate dogs for placement in new homes as well as for selection of dogs for specific work. This type of testing is valid when the tester has years of experience with hundreds of dogs. But checking off responses to exercises is of little value unless you can compare it to your knowledge of those hundreds of other dogs. It is difficult to list exercises with which you could reliably select a dog for your family. However, the information provided in this article gives you the background you need to interact with a dog and draw some conclusions.

TERMINOLOGY
"Dominant" and "Subordinate" describe a social status extremes while "Assertive" and "Submissive" describe reactions to threats. Many people use "dominant" as the opposite of "submissive" so I am pointing out that this is not how I use the terms to avoid any confusion.

EVALUATING PUPPIES
Temperament testing is often cited as a method for predicting the adult personality of a puppy. Research shows that it is not accurate. Generally, puppies (6-12 weeks) display more subordinate and submissive behaviour to strangers than they will as adults. Adolescent dogs (6-18 months depending on breed) generally display more assertive and dominant behaviour to strangers than they will as adults. A puppy gets a lot of clues about social status from his environment. Since the environment is always changing, so is a dog's behaviour. Evaluating puppies is helpful but cannot fully predict an adult dog's behaviour.

PREDICTING AGGRESSION
A special mention of temperament testing and predicting aggression is in order. It may be common sense to assume that assertive dogs are dominant and submissive dogs are subordinate. This is NOT the case. In fact, this is not even
the norm.

It also would be common sense to assume that assertive or dominant dogs would be more likely to be aggressive. This is also not reality. Consider these examples to help you understand the difficulty of predicting aggression in dogs.

Your Golden Retriever, listens to everyone, even strangers. This labels her a subordinate dog. She also runs up to every baby carriage and mail carrier to investigate, making her an assertive dog. While investigating, she bowls people over with her licking and tail wagging. However, when pinched, stepped on and /or even grabbed by children she does not bite. As you can see assertiveness occurs in subordinate dogs and is not a predictor of aggression.

Your neighbour’s German Shepherd understands many commands but ignores them from anyone but her owner.
She accepts leadership from few people and never from strangers. This is a trait of a socially dominant dog. Further evidence of her high social status is that she engages in prolonged eye contact with you when you walk by the fence. She doesn't bark, just stares at you.


However, when her owner got a 6' foot tall cat scratching post, the shepherd hid in the basement for two days because she reacts submissively to threatening situations. If their home were broken into, chances are the dog would hide again. Dominance is not a good predictor of assertiveness or aggression.

Last example. Your sister's subordinate and submissive Sheltie rolls over on her back when approached by anyone, even toddlers. Once when she was hiding from the exterminator, you reached under the bed to comfort her and she bit you! Not dominant OR assertive, yet someone got bitten.

The point is, aggression is not predictable based on characteristics of temperament alone. Temperament measures do
not predict biting now or in the future.

EXTREME BEHAVIOUR
Extreme behaviour during evaluation is always a concern. Extremely submissive, assertive, dominant or subordinate dogs will be more difficult to train than dogs with more moderate temperaments.

Overt threats from a puppy (under 6 months of age), growling and threatening body postures, are always undesirable pet behaviours, even for a future watch dog. Puppies displaying these behaviours lack social skills to interact safely with other animals, including people. These dogs may be unable to accept the ever widening social group encountered by a dog living in a human family. Overt threats in an adult will require careful handling as well but are as much caused by learning as by innate temperament.

Fear of people in a puppy, exhibited by hiding and crying out when touched, is also undesirable behaviour for a pet. An
overly fearful puppy may not be able to accept the busy life of a human family. Unusual fears in adults may be learned from specific experience and will require special handling as well.

Both of these extremes of assertiveness and submissiveness are observed in puppies and dogs kept in isolated environments, especially without a mother or siblings, during critical periods of development. If you are considering adopting a dog that displays extreme behaviour, please contact a behaviourist for assistance.

ABUSED DOGS
A very special evaluation is required for dogs that have been subjected to extremely poor care. Mistreated dogs may display behaviour that is not indicative of their true temperament. If you are considering adopting a dog that you know has not had proper care, consult a dog trainer for advice with temperament evaluation. Be sure you can offer this dog the social situations that will prevent him or her from harming a person or coming to harm as a result of extreme behaviour. Evaluating a dog's temperament can help you to choose a dog that will fit into your family or help you determine which type of training will be most effective for a dog you already live with. All dogs have a mouth, and all dogs can bite, regardless of their temperament.

IF IN DOUBT Contact a professional animal behaviour consultant (Contact the ABC of SA www.animal-behaviour.org.za) for a list of accredited behaviour consultants – see one in your area.


TEACHING DEAF DOGS TO “WATCH”
The problem with working with deaf dogs is not that they cant be taught hand signals – that is basically easy! Consistency and patience wins out. The problem is teaching the dog to actually look at the handler. After all it cant hear you. So what to do? It of course depends on the severity of the hearing disability. With dogs who are only partially deaf a good high pitched gundog silent whistle (the pitch is out of range of most humans – but dogs with impaired hearing often can hear it). A couple of “toots” on the whistle often get the dog to look at the handler – whereupon he can immediately receive a treat to reinforce the behaviour. Once habituated to “watch” you have his attention then can progress to hand signals.

The problem is with the dog who cannot hear at all or who cannot hear well enough to even hear the whistle. A vibrating collar is the answer. NO - I AM NOT TALKING ABOUT AN ELECTRIC SHOCK COLLAR !!! I am talking about a vibrating movement (can be a pebble or small marble sewn within a soft webbing collar) so when it is turned on (with a remote control) it gently wobbles/wriggles/vibrates so that the dog can be taught to associate the vibration or wobble with an instruction to look at their owner / handler! Kind and gentle – this is purely an attention seeker. A device that can be used to teach the dog to look at his owner/handler on cue! The collar is activated by a small remote about the size of a clicker and can be made up quite easily and the remove available from most electronic stores.

How to make your own Vibrating Collar! (Courtesy of Bill Bishop USA)
The basic idea is to use the guts of a radio remote controlled toy car as a means to turn on and off a vibrator fixed to the dog's collar. The car has everything you need---hand held radio transmitter/actuator, small radio receiver with antenna, and a small motor that forms the basis of the vibrator.


I bought the least expensive remote controlled toy car I could find. There is a wide variety available, each offering different styling and each offering different remote control options., but all you need is the simplest and cheapest. The one I used cost about $10. Its remote control feature was very limited. When you turned the car on (There's an on-off
switch on the car.) it ran forward continuously. When you pulled the trigger on the remote control unit, the car's direction reversed.

In this particular car (and probably most others, although I'm not an expert) the battery, receiver electronics and on-off switch were all right next to each other in a plastic assembly which I 'extracted'. Basically, I broke the car apart until this was all that was left. You want these components to occupy as little space as possible because they will be hanging on your dog's collar. I also 'extracted' the motor, and epoxied a small piece of metal to the side of its shaft. The idea is to fix something to the shaft that will cause the motor to be out of balance so that when it runs it will shake (vibrate). Anything will work, even a pebble.

You can try a few things by first fixing them to the shaft with tape to get a feel for whether or not there's enough vibration. Heavier things will cause greater vibrations. I put the motor in a plastic 35 mm film canister -- you can get them free at any photo store -- and stuffed some paper in to hold it in place.

The battery/receiver/on-off switch assemblies, and the vibrator, are sewn onto a collar. It's probably best to sew the antenna in too, and not have it stick up where it might get in the dog's way. If the remote controlled car you started with is normally stopped and only runs when activated, then you're finished. In my case, the car ran all the time, and reversed when activated, i.e., the motor ran all the time, only changing direction. Thus, it vibrated all the time, whether the actuator was pressed or not. In order to prevent it from running forward continuously, and only running (in this case backward, but who cares, all you want to do is have it turn) when activated, I put a diode in series with one of the leads to the motor. You can buy diodes at Radio Shack for less than a buck. Try the diode in each lead to the motor, and in each direction in each lead, until you hit upon the right lead and direction to do what you want. If this seems to hard to do, find a car that is normally stopped, and only runs when activated (either backwards or forwards, it doesn't matter).



Well that’s about it for now guys. I will keep you all posted of our upcoming events and other exciting news and provide feedback of other events.

Paws Abilities Students - remember our 3-month grading will be taking place soon, and we have some lovely certificates to award.

We are also holding a Good Citizen Test in the near future – I will let you know as soon as a date is finalised.


Please give me a shout with any views, news and other items, subject matter or articles that you would like to see included or discussed in our newsletter

Chow for Now

Louise
Consulting Rooms (011) 969-4467 Mobile 082-890-0905 E-mail louthomp@mweb.co.za