Paws News July 2008

Paws Abilities
Behaviour & Learning Centre
Newsletter Number – 20 - July 2008

A warm welcome to all Paws Abilities students, family, friends and clients. We have all been very busy since the last newsletter. our Ed-U-Paws team have been hard at work attempting to educate kids and grown up’s alike. Unlike most demonstration teams, we perform very little formal/traditional obedience exercises, rather - we create things that are fun for people to watch. At the recent Methodist Church Holiday Club demo, we entered the hall – (the only part where our dogs were on leash) and formed a circle around our dogs favourite game. The ball pond game! Each dog had to scent out his favourite toy out of a paddling pool overflowing with brightly coloured (very tempting) balls – much to the delight of the children. Then each handler presented a very short talk on a particular subject – one that we felt was suitable for kids. Simple messages. We covered sterilisation, why family’s should not permit their bitches to have puppies. Also ensuring that pets have identification as an aid to keeping them same (name tags, microchips, even contact details written in permanent marker on the inside of a webbing colour). Another point that was made – was if people don’t necessarily need a pedigree dog/registered dog, they should rather adopt from welfare and in that way save a life. Lastly we covered choosing a breed NOT for its aesthetic appearance or for fashion.

We then held a basic quiz for the kids and asked several questions relevant to what had just been shortly discussed. We were amazed, these kids must have really been paying attention. Each and every question we asked – they got right! Top points to the kids at the Holiday Club!

Each dog and handler then performed a little sketch, which incorporated some fun, obedience skills. All the sketches were performed with the dogs off leash. We had one dog who even incorporated a dinner scene and then did the dishes before amazing us all by feat of skill and daring by riding a skateboard! The dogs performed like pro’s and it was obvious they were all having a ball and each dog really enjoying showing off. I was so proud of them - even with some hectic distractions (over 300 kids in the hall) – but I must add the children were soooo well behaved and a credit to the Holiday Club teaches and helpers. We did explain that the dogs needed a bit of quiet in order for them to concentrate and the kids were cooperative to the extreme. A good time was had by all! We will be putting on more and more education programmes, both theory – in the form of workshops, and practical - in the form of workshops with dogs in attendance, and of course the demonstrations with a view to entertain and educate.

Should anyone like to make enquiries about bookings or need any further information about our Ed-U-Paws team please give me a shout (details at the end of the newsletter)


At Paws Abilities - One of the things we tend to plug, and plug, and plug and plug – is the dramatic need for mass sterilisation in this country. The tragic fact is, that there are just far too many dogs.
We live in a world of DOG-OVER-POPULATION!

There is no way of knowing just how many thousands of dogs are killed each year by lethal injection – and YES I refuse to wrap it up in pretty words. Dead is Dead! The dogs are not “put to sleep” (if they were they would wake up again). To make the act more palatable, we tend to mask it in pretty, gentle words. Whether we say, euthanasia, or kill by lethal injection – the end result is the same DOGS DIE!

My heart goes out to the poor souls who have to repeatedly perform this act of mercy – These dedicated individuals do so out of absolute kindness and a passion for animals. It is about time that the rest of us started to WAKE UP and start to take some responsibility in this regard. If each and every person influenced and educated other people that they know – it would have a snowball effect and who knows how many lives would be saved in the long term.

It is a fallacy that the SPCA kills animals – it is the public’s ignorance and failure to curb irresponsible breeding, that kills animals. It is the over-production by the “puppy mills and puppy farmers” that kills animals. It is the pet shop and flea market industry - who in the end are partly responsible for killing animals!

THE IMPORTANCE OF STERILISATION
Taken from “Discover Your Puppy’s Paws Abilities”
By Louise Thompson (Accredited Animal Behaviour Consultant)

Too few male dogs are neutered today! There seems to be a big “hang-up” about this simple medical procedure. Myths and “old-wives” stories abound, given by owners as reasons why they don’t want to have their dogs “fixed”. This simple procedure is performed by your veterinarian under general anaesthetic when your male pup is about six months of age.
I am also not ashamed to admit that I am actively trying to discourage people from adding to the unwanted dog over- population! THE PUBLIC SHOULD LEAVE BREEDING TO THE PROFESSIONALS!

It has been scientifically proven that there is a direct link between the production of testosterone and dominant aggressive behaviour, both inter-canine (dog to dog) and canine-human (dog to human). The male dog’s level of testosterone “peaks” at about 30 months of age. The profile of a typical dog who has attacked, mauled or killed a child is: “A male dog between the ages of 24 and 30 months, who has not been neutered, of working and fighting breeds.”

It is even more disturbing that a good many of these attacks are by the family’s pet dog! In their own home! Most of these incidents could have been avoided and prevented!

The kind of relationship, or lack thereof, that one has with one’s dog can also be added to the profile. The following profile of pet dogs who would be more likely to attack, are:

· Dogs who have had no learning or education. A dog’s education should begin at a reputable puppy learning and socialising group from about seven weeks of age and all learning should be reward- based and should employ positive reinforcement methods of learning. Abuse and punishment have no place in animal learning. Education for a young pup and dog is vital to increase his levels of tolerance to all things and people, as well as to teach him basic manners and obedience so that he can develop into a socially acceptable companion animal.
· Dogs that are kept behind solid walls with no appropriate stimulation (visual, mental or physical). Dogs that have little or no contact with their owners, kept in permanent, solitary, confinement!
· Yard dogs, kept as mobile security systems or defence mechanisms.
· Abused dogs.
· Dogs who are kept chained up for long periods of time.
· Dogs who have been extensively physically punished, and develop “defensive” fear aggression.
· Dogs who have been teased and tormented by children and develop a negative association with children.
· Untrained, or semi-trained dogs who are taught “aggression” / “attack training” by ignorant dog training instructors, and are triggered by an inappropriate situation. This would be considered as a “misread signal” by the dog.
· Overtly indulged dogs that are given all the privileges of leadership in the human canine pack. These “spoiled brat” dogs often take it upon themselves to make a misguided critical decision in the home. No dog can cope with the responsibility of being the leader in the human/dog pack or group. Humans should be clear decision-makers and the dog should earn all privileges.
· Dogs that are over-protective, either of their environment (territory) or their owners.
· Injured or sick dogs – defensive aggression or fear/pain biters.

The above-mentioned kinds of dogs all have the potential to commit an unprovoked “attack”.

NEUTER HIM
Unless the dog is a show animal, is registered with the Kennel Union of Southern Africa, is tip top breed champion dog and is winning at breed and/or obedience dog shows - NEUTER HIM! Even a purebred dog (without appropriate registration papers) is worthless. A purebred registered dog that has not proved himself in the ring (either breed or obedience) is also worth dramatically less than a winner! NEUTER HIM!

One male dog can father hundreds of unwanted mongrel “randomly bred” puppies a year – of which a great number will be humanely killed by welfare agencies, as there are just too many dogs to place in homes! Many of these unwanted pups end up being abused and used for many horrendous purposes, from dog fighting bait, to animal experimentation, to being unloved and unwanted then dumped!
NEUTER HIM!
In South Africa, welfare societies humanely kill thousands of dogs each year, due to careless breeding. You do not need to add to the statistics!

ADVANTAGES OF NEUTERING A MALE DOG
Neutered dogs live longer – the risk of tescular cancer is eliminated.
Neutering lowers dominant aggressive behaviour towards owners by 65%.
Neutering lowers inter-dog aggressive behaviour by some 65%.
Straying and wandering is reduced by 80%.
Inappropriate urination/marking behaviour is reduced by 70%.
Neutering lowers the male dog’s urge to mount, and to simulate inappropriate copulation movements by 70%.
Neutering focuses attention and concentration.

DISPELLING THE NEUTERING MYTHS
Neutered dogs put on weight!
So will you if you eat too much and don’t exercise enough!


Neutered dogs make poor watchdogs!
How can that be, as neutering focuses attention and improves concentration? In reality, a neutered male dog is less easily distracted by things that a robber would be likely to use as a distraction (like a bitch in season).
Neutering my dog will make him a wimp.
Only if he was already a wimp to start with!
Neutering does not change, and cannot change, your dog’s basic character!
Welfare organisations destroys many thousands of dogs each year due to careless breeding. You do not need to add to the statistics!

If your dog is of a fighting breed and you are expecting a baby in the near future - Neuter him
If you have any hint of aggressive or dominant behaviour – Neuter him!
If you own more than one male dog and they are of different ages and you want to avoid future aggression/fighting when the lower dog reaches maturity, neuter the lower ranking (victim) dog at an early age to avoid status aggression.

As an afterthought - in closing, I might add that, unlike their human counterparts, the only time that a male dog thinks of sex is when there is a bitch in season within range, without a headache! The rest of the time, the male dog is more interested in his supper!

SPAYING YOUR BITCH PUPPY

As with neutering a male dog, there are also many advantages to spaying a bitch.
· The procedure is done under general anaesthetic by your veterinarian from about six months of age.
· Spayed bitches and neutered dogs make the best family pets.
· Unless you have a really good registered breed specimen and are prepared to go to the length of attending and winning breed-shows, which takes tons of time, energy, preparation and training. It is definitely worth having your bitch puppy spayed.

Advantages of spaying a bitch
· The bitch will not come into season and will not be able to conceive puppies.
· You will not have to worry about hormonal changes before, during and after a season. Hormonal changes in bitches often alter normal/usual behaviour (The doggie version of PMS)!
· You will save on kennel fees, for if a bitch is in season, she should be kennelled to avoid any mating accidents. This is law in some municipal areas and fines may be given for non-compliance.
· You will not have to worry about the mess and the time that it takes to clean up after a bitch in season. Discharge, bleeding, etc.
· You will not have to put up with the whole neighbourhood’s dogs camping on your doorstep, trying to mate with her.
· Sterilised bitches live longer and have fewer health risks.
· If your bitch is sterilised, you will not have to worry about one of the neighbourhood dogs mating with your bitch and creating more unwanted puppies in a world that is already over-populated with randomly bred strays. You will thus be saving dogs’ lives!

SPAY YOUR BITCH PUPPY - IT IS THE ETHICAL THING TO DO!

WHY NOT LET HER HAVE A LITTER FOR THE CHILDREN TO HAVE THE EXPERIENCE?
In a world of canine over-population, if you are using the excuse that you want your own children to see the “miracle of birth” - Forget it – YOU HAVE LOST THE PLOT!

Thousands of dogs and puppies are killed each year at various welfare organisations, due to there being more supply than demand. Do not kid yourself that they are all street mongrels – they are not. Take a drive to your local animal welfare centre – look into the eyes of the dogs in kennels on death row, and then perhaps you might re-think your ideas and values. Rather leave the breeding of dogs to the professionals who breed genetically sound animals and who breed expressly for the betterment of the breed. If you want the kids to experience the “miracle of birth” buy, them a good book or a video.



SOME PEOPLE SAY THAT THEY WILL HAVE THEIR BITCH SPAYED BUT FEEL SHE SHOULD HAVE A LITTER FIRST!!! This is totally illogical. Apart from hormone level changes, which can cause dramatic character and personality changes, there is no scientific evidence that this has any beneficial effect on the bitch. In fact, the reverse may well be true, putting the bitch at risk for birth complications, etc.

Do you have any idea of the time money and effort that it can take to bring a “Good” litter of puppies to the age where they can be homed?

CONSIDER
· The cost of a suitable stud (male) dog to cover the bitch (can be thousands of rands)!
· Feed costs – pregnant and lactating bitches need to be on a special diet. Special feed is very expensive!
· Construction and expense of a suitable whelping area and the time involved in supervising and being on call, waiting to deliver pups.
· Birth costs – whelping can go horribly wrong and the bitch could need medical intervention – this really costs! She could need a caesarean section and intensive care for some time afterwards – very costly indeed, not counting the time, effort and energy spent nursing the bitch back to health when she gets back home!
· The bitch could die during the birth, which could leave you with lots of hungry little mouths to bottle feed, clean and stimulate for toilet functions every two hours for the next six weeks or so! It should be noted that some (larger) breeds may produce up to sixteen pups in one litter!!!
· Behaviourally, orphan pups never develop normally due to a lack of canine maternal imprinting and non-interaction with siblings, etc. These orphaned pups often end up with severe behavioural problems later on.
· The pups could be sickly and need costly medication and veterinary fees.
· The cost of the inoculation of the litter of puppies – expensive!
· The cost of regular de-worming of the litter of puppies – expensive!
· The cost of special feed for puppies – expensive!
· If the pups are “purebred”, they will need to be registered with the registration authority, such as the Kennel Union of SA or the various Federations of certain breeds. A fee is applicable for each pup that is registered. Certain breeds also required tattooing before being homed – also expensive! Litters born to bitches under the age of 24 months are NOT eligible for registration.
· Time, energy and effort involved in feeding, cleaning, and training puppies. Puppies cry a lot, eat and drink a lot and they pee and pooh a lot – tons of time, effort, energy and money involved in cleaning up after them – expensive!

MOST IMPORTANT OF ALL!
For medium and large breeds, the end of the seventh week is the best time to place the puppies in their new homes. THAT IS IF THERE ARE ANY GOOD HOMES AVAILABLE!

Could you be able to find someone who you can trust to take on one of these puppies, bearing in mind that taking on a puppy is a twelve to fifteen year commitment?

WHAT ARE YOU GOING TO DO WHEN YOU REALISE
That you are not going to be able to get rid of all the puppies and that you might be saddled with the lot! Now the puppies are suddenly not so cute any more, and are fast becoming a nuisance, destructive and messy and are costing you a lot of money, time, effort and energy.

ARE YOU GOING TO KEEP THE ENTIRE LITTER????
Bear in mind that some breeds can produce up to A DOZEN or more puppies! Alternatively, are you just going to dump them at the local SPCA when you realise that you are unable to get rid of them? ………..

What do you think Animal Welfare Shelters do with pups when their kennels are full?
There are too many strays and unwanted dogs – and not enough good homes available---work it out for yourself!

Sterilise your bitch puppy. It is the ethical thing to do!
Breeding should be left to ethical, reputable professionals who breed solely for the improvement and betterment of the breed. In fact, my personal belief is that people should have to be licensed in order to be permitted the privilege of breeding a litter of puppies. A breeder should have to prove himself “Worthy” before being allowed to add to the canine population. The breeder should be considered the “Genetic Factory” of the end product – which should be a socially acceptable dog! In many ways, this is an awesome responsibility that I wish more breeders would consider.

PLEASE FORWARD THIS INFORMATION TO AS MANY PEOPLE AS YOU CAN – LETS EDUCATE – AND SAVE SOME LIVES!





Not every family are in a position to be able to have a dog or a puppy. There should be many things that family’s should consider before deciding to obtain a puppy.

The following articles are taken from “Discover Your Puppy’s Paws Abilities” a book which is available from Paws Abilities on order.

THINGS TO CONSIDER BEFORE BUYING A PUPPY
Owning a puppy is a privilege, a responsibility and a lifetime commitment! The average dog can live for 12 – 15 years. Therefore, this is not a decision to be taken lightly. A family should give serious thought and planning to the purchase, before going out to buy a puppy. A puppy is not something that should be bought on a whim, taken on as an act of sympathy or pity, or collected as a fashion statement or a fashion accessory!

My first advice to any family is “don’t rush into anything!” Take your time before making any decisions. A lengthy family discussion is a good thing at this time. The following should be fully discussed by the whole family:

ARE YOU A “WORTHY” PROSPECTIVE DOG OWNER?
Are you in a financial position to be able to afford the “privilege” of buying a “suitable” puppy and the continued ongoing financial burden of keeping a dog?
Are you sure that your house and garden (fencing, etc) is a safe/suitable and secure environment to keep a puppy/dog?
Are their any other considerations you need to take into account, such as religion, cultural aspects, children with allergies or family health problems, etc, that could affect any interactions with the puppy?
Does your lifestyle warrant owning a dog?
Do you and your family have the “TIME” and energy it takes to be a responsible dog owner for the next ten to sixteen years? (Longevity is breed specific)
Who is going to be responsible for caring, feeding, grooming and cleaning up after the new puppy?
Where is the pup going to sleep?
Who is going to be responsible for the regular exercise and training of the puppy for the next 10 to 15 years?
When you are away on holiday or business, what will happen to the dog/pup?
What breed of pup are you going to choose in order to fit in with your lifestyle and home environment?
Where are you going to purchase a dog/pup?

WHY DO YOU WANT A PUPPY?
This question is not as silly as it sounds! People buy pets for many different reasons, and you should be very sure of your motivation. You need to be sure that you truly WANT a puppy and all the hassles, responsibilities and expenses that come with it.

If you are getting a puppy just for the kids – DON’T!
Children as you well know have very short attention spans. The puppy will be a novelty for a while, and then it will start to grow up… At some stage, the puppy will start to nip the children’s hands, to chew up their toys, to become more demanding, and without the correct upbringing and training, will very soon become a damn nuisance! This is the time that most young children seriously start to lose interest!

If you are getting a puppy to teach your children responsibility, DON’T!
You know as a parent, no matter what rules you make, the children are not going to be caring for this pet for the next 10 to 15 years. YOU ARE! So do not try to fool yourself into thinking that the children will care for and look after the puppy, because you know that is not going to happen.

PUPPIES/DOGS ARE NOT!
· Puppies are not - toys or playthings to keep the kids occupied. They are complex creatures with emotions and feelings, and have very specific needs. They are gregarious, social animals needing lots of love, time and energy and a “genuine long-term, life-long commitment” from their owners.

· Puppies are not - mobile security systems. If you are getting a dog to keep in the yard just to protect your property – DON’T! For a dog to want to protect your family and property, he needs to feel and be included as part of the larger group/pack (family). If the relationship is appropriate and the dog is genetically sound, he will protect you and yours. But, if he is kept in solitary confinement behind four concrete walls with no stimulation and no interaction with your family, and/or is kept isolated from the world at large, then he will have no reason to protect anything but HIMSELF. If this is the case, then rather go out and spend the money on a good security system.

· Puppies are not - a fashion statement nor a status symbol!
With each new doggie movie that is released, hoards of unscrupulous backyard breeders and puppy mills mass-produce poor specimens of puppies for the gullible public to buy! The fashion changes with each new film release!


The public needs to understand that each dog you see starring in a film has been specially researched, selected, bred, and trained for the part. It would therefore be illogical to think that each individual dog of each breed has the same character, nature, or is equal in trainability to his film star counterpart!

· Puppies are not - a child substitute!
If you are getting a puppy for this reason, what is the position of the dog going to be when you become a harassed new mom? Is this pet going to end up in “doggie jail” – condemned to a life alone in the back garden, lonely, rejected, neglected and forgotten?
CAN YOU AFFORD TO KEEP A DOG? Dogs are expensive to purchase and maintain.
The following will give you an idea of what is involved.
· Cost of purchasing from a reputable breeder.
· Cost of safe fencing and securing the immediate environment.
· Cost of bedding and sleeping arrangements.
· Cost of good quality food and hygienic safe feed/water dishes.
· Cost of regular parasite control, both external (fleas/ticks) and internal (de-worming.) This is an ongoing cost; monthly for external parasites (fleas/ticks) and every three to four months or so for internal parasites (worms), for the rest of the dog’s life! If these things are neglected both the dog and the family’s heath can be compromised. Certain animal parasites such as tapeworms can be transmitted to humans!
· Biting flies can also be a problem and in the summer months preventative fly repellent will need to be applied every couple of days.
· Cost of brushes and grooming equipment, e.g. dog shampoos, dips, etc.
· Cost of professional grooming and clipping. This is specific to certain breeds and includes breeds such as the French Poodle, which needs regular bathing, clipping and brushing out.
· Cost of medical bills due to ill health or genetic problems.
If your dog/puppy gets ill, surgery and the veterinary bills can be very costly. A Pet’s Medical Aid could be considered.
· Cost of sterilisation for both dog and bitch puppies at about six months of age. Neutered male dogs and spayed female bitches make the best house pets with various other advantages, including longevity!
· Cost of kennelling the animal when you are away on holiday or business or the cost of paying someone to “house sit” and be a primary care giver.
· Cost of daily cleaning up after the pup – pups and dogs pee and poop a LOT!
· Cost of training classes and training equipment.
· Cost of entertainment, dog toys, chew items for teething, etc.
· Cost of replacement for all the goodies that the puppy is going to destroy!

Still convinced you want to buy a puppy?

DO YOU HAVE THE “TIME” TO CARE FOR, RAISE AND EDUCATE A PUPPY?
Owning a dog is extremely time-consuming. Training, exercising, feeding, grooming and cleaning up after a dog, all take time. As a prospective dog owner you must know that “TIME” is your most valuable commodity and, as the world seems to get smaller and busier by the day, you need to be sure that you are going to have enough time to meet all the future needs of your pup. Again I stress this can be for the next 12 years or so! The following will give you an idea of just what is involved in the daily routine of keeping a dog.

# Feeding: The average seven-week-old pup is fed four times per day. From about six months of age, pups are fed three times per day. The average adult dog is fed twice a day.

# Exercise: Dogs (depending on breed) need to be exercised off the property at least three to four times per week. This is for mental stimulation as well as exercise and to avoid behavioural problems such as confinement stress and the development of destructive behaviours.

# Grooming: This depends on the breed of dog and the individual type of coat. With a short-haired breed such as a Labrador or a Staffordshire Terrier you could get away with a quick rub over with a grooming glove, a couple of times a week. A long-haired breed such as a Border Collie would need daily brushing out. Breeds such as the French Poodle need regular professional attention.

# Training: With a tiny puppy you will need to spend a couple of minutes several times a day for learning. An adult dog will need a session of about 15 minutes several times a week. This is not only for learning but also for mental stimulation and discipline.

# Cleaning up: Dogs and puppies eliminate (toilet) several times a day. For reasons of hygiene for both pet and the family, faeces need to be picked up at least once a day.

# Washing: Blankets, bedding and sleeping areas will also need to be washed every week and regularly treated with a preventative tick/flea product.

# Washing up: Feed dishes need to be washed after each meal to stop attracting flies and the water bowl should be changed, washed and refilled daily.

As you can see from the above, owning and bringing up a dog is very time-consuming, energy-consuming and costly!
Perhaps some people should rather adopt an electronic goldfish!


DOG TRAINING HOMEWORK HINTS

õ If your pup has already been through baby puppy school and has already acquired the basic, beginner skills (such as focus and concentration), we strongly suggest that you DO NOT practise each exercise taught in class each and every day. Practise 1 X EXERCISE A DAY for a couple of minutes at a time only. By doing this, you and your dog will not become bored or stale!

õ If you have just – for the first time - started dog training and your dog/pup has NOT been through our excellent puppy learning and socialisation programme, then you will need to practise a little more - a couple of exercises for a couple of minutes each day. But beware of overdoing it!

õ Only practise for short periods at a time to avoid boredom setting in (both for you and the dog)!

õ NEVER practice with your dog after a bad day at the office, if you are tired or in a bad mood!

õ Make sure that each interaction and practice session is both fun and rewarding for your dog.

õ Try to practise in a different location and environment each day. Do so at different times, in a different direction and in different weather conditions, so as to ensure that your dog learns to obey you under any circumstances.

õ Put the exercises that you have learnt in class into practice in your daily routines. You do not have to set aside time for “formal” homework. Make it fit into your lifestyle!

õ There is no excuse for not performing homework! You can practise “stays,” “retrieves,” “recalls,” and straight “sits,” whilst you are sitting in a chair watching your favourite soapy on TV.

õ Only practise for a few minutes at a time. Rather have two or three very short practice sessions of a couple of minutes each, than one long, boring, hour-long session. Even “heelwork” exercises can be performed during daily activities. To reiterate, homework should not be formal. Incorporate homework into a fun play session!

õ Quit while you are ahead! If the dog has successfully performed an exercise once – do not repeat it again and again. Not only are you going to bore your dog to pieces and end up a “nag,” but if you – as the handler - make a mistake (which is more likely than the dog making a mistake), you will have to repeat the exercise to gain perfection (putting the dog under pressure) until you BOTH get it right. For example, it has been proved that one perfect “retrieve” is worth 20 bad ones! One minute’s perfect “heelwork” is worth hours of sloppy turns! One perfect recall with a “straight sit” is worth a dozen recalls with crooked sits.

õ Bit by bit, get your dog used to working with distractions. Start with mild, slight distractions and then, over a period of time, work up to something a bit more substantial, with louder noises and more physical activities.

õ If, at any time, the dog regresses, go back to the level where he was working competently. Stay at that level for a while and only then progress to more challenging work.



THE RETRIEVE EXERCISE

TEACHING YOUR DOG TO “FETCH” ON COMMAND
One of the exercises that many dogs appear to have problems with is the “retrieve” or “fetch” exercise. This problem is often caused by handlers scolding or punishing their pup when she is young (especially in the early sensitive stages of puppy development) for stealing, bolting or running away with shoes or other household objects. From such occurrences, the pup learns to associate picking things up with punishment. The pup then associates the concept of retrieve with a negative experience. If puppies (from an early age)are taught that it is rewarding to pick things up and to bring them to their owner, this negative association is avoided and the problem never develops!

The following explanations should give you an idea of how to encourage and teach retrieve (in a positive manner) to your dog from puppy-hood, and should also offer help for older, non-retrievers, including “problem dogs.” To achieve this, various different gentle retrieve methods can be used. Even stubborn dogs that have never retrieved, or have stopped retrieving, can be re-taught the joy of “fetch.”

None of the methods used here are harsh or involve discomfort or punishment for the dog in any way! All methods utilise the concept of positive reinforcement/reward-based learning, and are fun for both dog and handler.

THE RETRIEVE EXERCISE
The eventual aim of the following exercise is to achieve a full retrieve with the dog under full control and with full obedience and compliance:

1. The dog is sitting (off leash) in the “heel” position on the handler’s left-hand side. The steward or instructor will ask the handler: “Handler, are you ready?”
2. If ready, the handler then instructs the dog to “wait”. The dog is not permitted to move until the handler gives the command.
3. On the steward or instructor’s instruction: “Handler, throw your article,” the dumb-bell is thrown (by the handler) forward for about 8 – 15 meters. The dog is not permitted to move until instructed so by her handler.
4. On instruction from the steward or instructor: “Send your dog,” the dog is given the command “fetch” by the handler. On command, the dog moves forward and picks up the dumb-bell, quickly and immediately turning around and bringing it back to the handler. The dog then “presents,” (sits straight, facing the owner with the dumb-bell in his mouth). This means that she performs a “recall,” carrying the dumb-bell in her mouth, and then sits straight in front of the handler.
5. The dog must continue to hold the dumb-bell in her mouth until the steward gives the handler the instruction: “Take/remove the article.” The handler may then give the dog the “leave” command and remove the dumb-bell from the dogs’ mouth (the dog should release willingly). The dog must continue to sit straight in the frontal position and await the “finish” command.
6. On the steward’s instruction, “Finish,” the handler may then give the “heel” command and the dog can be brought around to the working heel side (the handler’s left-hand side) and complete the exercise in the sit position. The instructor/steward will then inform the handler that the exercise is over, and the dog may then be praised and released.
7. All “sits” must be straight – in a show ring, points will be deducted for crooked sits.

NOTE: For easy reference, all the retrieve objects in this booklet are referred to as “The Dummy.” In early learning stages, and in the lower show classes, “The Dummy” can be a favourite toy, a dumb-bell, a piece of wooden doweling, or any object of your preference.

In training or practice, it is strongly suggested that the exercise is split up into manageable sections, so as to not give the dog an opportunity to fail. For example, to avoid a dog “anticipating” what you are going to do (and thus loose marks in the show ring), we never practice a finish straight after a recall (whether the recall is in a retrieve or forms part of a separate exercise). In this way, the dog learns that she has to listen and not try to make her own decisions.

RULES TO ENSURE A HAPPY RETRIEVE
õ Never practise or train your dog when you are in a bad mood, or if you have had a bad day at the office!
õ Never practise or work your dog if she appears to be off-colour or ill.
õ Keep the breed characteristics (inherited genetics) of each individual breed in mind. Some breeds take longer to learn than others.
õ All learning should be FUN – for both dog and owner!
õ All learning should be based on positive reinforcement or reward-based methods of learning.
õ Abuse and/or abusive methods of learning have no place in dog training.
õ Always be consistent, calm and confident. You must always be consistent in your attitude, voice, commands and body language to obtain positive results.
õ Never chastise or punish a dog/puppy for picking up anything in her mouth. If the dog/puppy has something “undesirable” in her mouth, you can do a “trade” for a valuable object or treat.
õ Your voice is your most important training tool, so use it – especially for encouragement, affirmation and reassurance! In some breeds, a dog’s sense of hearing is at least THREE TIMES GREATER THAN YOURS! So volume is not needed! Rather use a soft, excited tone than an intimidating booming voice!
õ Always retain your sense of humour!

Keep all learning sessions fun and light!

õ Make sure that all training sessions are gentle and kind.\
õ Always end the practise session on a good note and, if possible, after a success!
õ Quit when you are ahead!!!! Unless you are following a programme such as the inducive retrieve programme outlined later in this book, keep all sessions short and end on a positive note!

õ If the dog has performed an exercise correctly the first time, DO NOT REPEAT THE EXERCISE, as you or your dog might make a mistake the second time, and then you will have to repair the damage done by the mistake! As said earlier: QUIT WHEN YOU ARE AHEAD!


WHAT NOT TO DO!
· DON’T chase your dog to get the dummy (or anything else he has in her mouth). Four legs are much faster than two, and you do not want the dog to learn this fact, or she will learn (much to her owner’s frustration!) a fun game called “Hit and Run!” Rather teach her to “trade” the dummy for either a valuable, alternative toy or a food treat!

· DON’T play tug-of-war with the retrieve dummy. The idea is to fetch the dummy, not to fight over it! Keep games separate and different to retrieve. Instead of teaching the dog to use her strength against you in games of conflict, rather find games that encourage co-operation and control.

· DON’T ever fake throwing the dummy. It may be funny to watch the dog search for an imaginary dummy, but you will not find it amusing in the show ring if she looks away when you are throwing the dummy and thinks that you are fooling around!

· NEVER correct or punish your dog when she brings you something. Praise her even if she has stolen and brought your best pair of shoes to you! This is to ensure that she always has a positive association regarding retrieve!

· NEVER practise retrieve for long periods of time. It is better to perform one or two enthusiastic, good, successful retrieves, than to perform 10 mediocre retrieves with a dog that is bored to tears! Quit before she loses her enthusiasm!

· BE CONSISTENT! Always use the same commands, tone of voice, facial expression, body language, and body posture: You need to “mirror” your responses to your dog!

COMMANDS USED FOR THE “FETCH” OR RETRIEVE EXERCISE
· “FETCH” – used when the dog is given, takes, picks up or has the dummy gently popped into her mouth. In other words, in the early stages of learning, the word “fetch” literally means to open her mouth and have a dummy gently put into it! The word should be exciting and should be accompanied by jubilant praise, which can initially include repeating the command “fetch,” so that she can associate the word with the action.

· “HOLD” – used when the dog retains, holds or carries the dummy in her mouth. In other words, when the dummy is in her mouth, she has to close her jaws and hang onto the dummy until instructed otherwise! Initially, the command can be repeated with praise, to let the dog form an association with the word: “Hold!” “Good dog!” etc.

· “LEAVE” - This is when the dog releases the dummy into your awaiting, outstretched, open hands on command! PRAISE IS NOT GIVEN for the “leave” command, as the “fetch” and “hold” need to be habituated first. A good idea is to calmly say “thank you,” instead of excited, exuberant praise for release!

· ONLY PRAISE FOR THE “FETCH” AND HOLD!”

RETRIEVE AS A TRAINING TOOL: The correct stimulation – both physical and mental - cannot be over-emphasised. I believe that a dog that never learns the joy of “fetch” misses out on a whole lot of fun, not to mention that it may be utilised as a useful training tool and as a reward for a job well done! It can also be a lazy way for you to exercise your dog when you have limited time!To reiterate, if you want your dog to learn to fetch, you must NEVER scold her for picking anything up, or she will associate it with a negative experience.
If the dog/pup - at some stage in her life - has had a negative experience with carrying something in her mouth, she will be disinclined to oblige when you actually want her to pick things up and “fetch,” as she will remember the negative experience of having something in her mouth and of being scolded/punished! Therefore, whenever she picks up something – she should be praised. If she has something undesirable in her mouth, praise as usual, and calmly remove the article. Then replace it with another toy or object that she is allowed to have.
The following methods will give you some alternative ways to teach retrieve and to overcome any problems that you might be having with your dog/puppy.
· Use a large dose of your own common sense and “read” your puppy/dog in order to decide which method will work for you and your dog/pup.
· Every dog and every owner is different and must be considered as individuals.
· You will need to be flexible to get it right!
· Keep your cool and develop a sense of humour!
THE PLAYFUL RETRIEVE: HOW TO BEGIN
As soon as the pup’s mouth is big enough to hold a ball or a toy, you can start to play. Nearly all puppies have a natural tendency to chase a moving object such as a ball. Begin in the house with you sitting on the floor, relaxed and in a good mood! Only roll the toy as far as your puppy can follow the movement with her eyes. Resist the temptation to bounce the ball or to throw it a long distance, as she will probably pounce on it.

The puppy’s concentration span is extremely short, so only “play the game,” for a couple of minutes at a time. Once the pup has learned the joy of chasing the rolling toy, clap your hands and encourage the puppy to bring it back to you (while you are sitting on the floor). By sitting on the floor, you are at the puppy’s level and in a non-threatening position. You are in the perfect position to welcome her and fuss over her if she does return. You are also curbing your own impulse to go forward towards her, which would be off-putting and intimidating to the puppy.
If she comes back to you, praise her and act as if the toy that she has just brought you is made of solid gold! If she does not come back to you, do not scold her or act displeased. And never chase after her, as this may teach her to run away with things and develop bad habits! Keep encouraging her to bring it, and if she doesn’t, nonchalantly move towards her, get it back, and try again. If, after several days, the pup still has not gotten the idea of bringing the toy back to you, try rolling it in the passage of your house with all the doors closed.
As the pup runs after the moving toy, clap your hands and - either kneeling or sitting on the floor - try to encourage her to bring it to you. If she runs at all, she will have no choice but to run to you! Then, when she gets to you, she can be fussed over, so that she gets the idea that this is what you want and finds the human reaction rewarding.
Don’t be in a hurry to leave the passage to play this game. If you do, you are giving the pup the opportunity to learn to disobey you. You want to limit her options in order to make sure that she succeeds and thus gains praise and reward.
The next step is to take her to a slightly less confined room, such as the kitchen, and get her to bring it back to you. Hopefully she will fetch it and bring it back to you as he did in the passage. If she does not bring it back, despite your encouraging voice and hand clapping, you have two choices:
1. Return to the passage and start from the beginning again.
2. Attach a thin, light line to her collar in order to narrow her options where, after fetching the ball, he may gently be drawn to you with encouragement and praise.
You have to keep the concept of learning light and fun for the puppy. Do not put any pressure on the pup or she will rapidly loose interest. The best way is to gently and playfully encourage the pup to do what you want, and to show pleasure when she gets it right. Do not be in a hurry to start playing outside, as that is a big transition.
You want your puppy to enjoy the game, but she must also know the rules before you add any further distractions.
When you feel that she is ready to play the game outside, put her on the light line, even if you did not have to use it before, so that she does not get the opportunity to dodge and run away. It will also remind her of the rules of the game. Throw the toy about the same distance than you did when playing in the house, and assume the familiar position of sitting or kneeling on the floor.
From here on, when successful, you can very gradually proceed to longer retrieves, eventually chopping off short pieces of the line - bit by bit - until eventually the line becomes a short piece of string attached to the puppy’s collar. You can also, over time, start to raise your body from the sitting/kneeling position to crouching, and bit by bit, over time, you can progress to the standing position for the entire retrieve.
If the puppy/dog regresses at any time, go back to the stage where she was coping adequately, and gradually move forward with the programme from there.
Although this is taught as a game, remember that this is a game of control and co-operation, played on your terms. Your pup will have a better readiness for learning routines than before!

GETTING IT RIGHT FROM THE BEGINNING Most young puppies love to play “Fetch”. Once your new puppy has had a chance to settle into her new home you can begin to lay a good foundation for her future reliable retrieve.
The best time to begin a training session with your pup is while she is chewing on toys. Call her to you, and if she brings the toy to you, praise her (praise her while she is carrying it), while coupling the praise with the “happy,” soft, excited voice command: “Fetch!” “Hold!” and gently remove the toy. Remember to praise the pup for coming to you.
The proper choice of the first dummy is crucial. An old sock tied with a knot in the middle is a good first choice. A piece of wooden doweling can also be used, as can a stuffed toy, etc. Initially, make sure that the dummy is not too small, or it will be difficult to remove from the pup’s mouth. Likewise, you don’t want the dummy to be too large, as this would be awkward for a young pup to carry. With a young puppy, do not start with a wooden competition dumb-bell, as the pup may try to fetch and carry it by the ends, and you do not want bad habits to set in.
Designate a couple of places on your property for retrieve. The area should be distraction free, initially with you blocking the exit. If you are going to train outdoors, make sure that the area is escape proof, and no more than 4 feet wide and 10 feet long.
Indoors, the long main passageway in the house is an ideal spot. Sit on the floor, blocking her exit. Sitting on the floor, or kneeling, is far better than standing, when one is inclined to lean over the pup, which she might find intimidating.
1. Give her a trigger word, such as “Let’s go get your dummy”! Always use the same “trigger” word, and not as a play or release command – retrieve is not to be confused with play. Let the pup see and smell the dummy and then tease her a bit by pulling it on the floor to stimulate her “prey drive” and to encourage her to chase it. At this stage, most puppies will happily chase and grab a valuable object/dummy. You should sound happy and exited and praise the pup with the command “Fetch” (as soon as she goes out to chase the object) and “Hold” when she has the object in her mouth). This is for the pup to learn to associate the word with the action.

2. As she picks up the dummy, give her the command “Hold” in an excited voice. And then, in a happy tone and with a big smile, give her the command “Come.” You can also clap your hands to add to the verbal encouragement, coaxing her to you.

3. When she gets to you, gently cup her face/muzzle lovingly in your hands, so that she does not drop the dummy. And, simultaneously, give the command “Hold” (remember to use a soft, light, happy tone), accompanied with tons of verbal encouragement and praise.

4. Give her a soft “Leave” command and, if she does not comply at once, gently remove the dummy from her mouth. Immediately throw it a short distance. If the pup has lost her enthusiasm, make it fun and drag the dummy on the floor - just out of reach in order to encourage her to chase it. Then roll/throw the dummy a couple of feet, or just far enough to get her to chase it, which will stimulate her “prey drive” and encourage her natural behaviours to hunt the toy.
Do this only once or twice (three times tops).

LEARN TO QUIT WHILE YOU ARE AHEAD!
Most pups will retrieve so enthusiastically that you will be tempted to throw the dummy too often.
RESIST THE TEMPTATION! A couple of short sessions per day are enough. After a while, the pup will begin to bring you a toy whenever she wants to retrieve, which will be a fair indication that you are right on track.

POSSIBLE PROBLEMS: You are bound to experience some problems along the way. Make sure that you are following each step correctly. Assuming that you are following the programme, here are some of the more common problems that you might experience.

REFUSAL TO GO OUT:
Usually this problem occurs because the pup does not like the dummy. Try a few alternative dummies. If that does not work, ask yourself if you are perhaps throwing it too far? A couple of feet is far enough at first.
Try a bit of teasing before actually throwing the dummy – “You can’t have it – it’s mine”. Then flash it (not too fast) in front of her face – enough to cause interest as it is pulled away. She should then snap at the dummy. Then give it a little toss and go through the process as previously described. As a last resort only, play tug-of-war until the pup is actively trying to get it away from you. Immediately remove it and throw it a short distance.
NEVER try to force a train and retrieve – especially with a puppy. Sometimes it is simply a matter of maturity.

DOESN’T BRING IT BACK:
This type of behaviour generally falls into two categories: “Rompers” and/or “Chewers” – who delight in throwing the dummy around, shaking it to death, and/or stopping to play and/or all of the above. “Catch me if you can!“ These pups like to play “hit and run” with the dummy. At this early stage of training, the above problems are usually quite easily solved. Since you are training in a confined area, the puppy’s options are limited!

DO NOT SCOLD THE PUPPY!
Calmly return to your starting point and begin again. If the pup indulges in this behaviour three times in a row, put the dummy away for a couple of days and then start again. Eventually she will learn that she can’t play this nice game if she doesn’t play by your rules!

DROPPING THE DUMMY AFTER PICKING IT UP:
Check the size of the dummy to make sure that it is not too large for the puppy to handle. Then check that it is not so long that it drags on the ground, as the puppy could tread on it and/or it could pop out of her mouth. Then make sure that you are not throwing the dummy too far! If not – then it depends on where she is dropping it.
The pup that drops it at a distance from you is simply confused. Walk calmly to the dummy with a smile and, with a happy tone of voice, give her the instruction to “fetch it” again and roll the dummy around. She should pounce on it. Quickly step back a stride or two and call her to you. Again, if she drops it three times in a row, give it a couple of days and start again.
THE FIGHTER:
This kind of pup will violently resist giving up the dummy – do not get angry! Quickly and firmly (remember to be gentle) offer her a trade for either a treat or for an alternatively valuable toy, whilst giving her the command “Leave.” If she is not interested in the “Trade,” then you need to gently limit the puppy’s options (If she is not given a chance to disobey you, she will never learn how)! DON’T GET CROSS or scold the puppy. Simply slide your thumb behind his long fang and rest your thumb on her tongue for a second, accompanied with the calm command “Leave,” and she will automatically open her mouth to release the dummy.

IMPORTANT TIPS:
· The speed that the pup brings the dummy back to you is very important. Do not worry about getting her to sit in front of you or formalising the exercise in any way whilst she is just learning. You should only add that part of the exercise when she is more mature.
· When calling the pup to you with the dummy in her mouth, never stand like a statue. Crouch down or go down onto your knees (leaning back – inviting body language) with wide, open, inviting arms to encourage her to come to you without dropping the dummy.
· If she is struggling to get the concept of returning to you, turn around and run away from her for a few steps whilst calling her to you. Try not to bend/tower over her (which is intimidating). Wait until she is in a good position - either at your side or in front of you - and then calmly slide the dummy out of her mouth, remembering to praise only when the dummy is in her mouth.

THE PASSIVE COMPULSION METHOD
If you have an older dog that is not interested in fetching, playing or retrieving, then you might have to consider “Helping” her to learn the exercise. This is similar to teaching a dog to sit when she does not comply with the command. Such a dog is gently (with minimum fuss) helped into the position and then praised for compliance. The same logic can be applied for teaching the non-retrieve dog to “Fetch” using passive compulsion.
The gentle compulsion method should not be conducted during a heavy formal training session. Rather incorporate the lesson into the dog’s daily household routine. In fact, a great time and place to teach retrieve is when sitting in your favourite chair watching television!
Tips and rules
· Keep all sessions short, fun and light.
· Make sure that the dog is hungry and fasted for at least 12 hours.
· Wear a pouch with some tasty treats in it. The dog is only going to receive the treat when she has earned it - on compliance!
The first retrieve object should be a thin piece of bird perch or wooden doweling.
You can use anything that is not too thick or heavy. Use a piece of doweling that is sized in relation to the size of the dog, her jaw shape and size. Usually a good beginner size of doweling for the non-retrieve dog is one about the size of your finger and long enough to just stick out of the dog’s mouth each side by an inch or so.

HOW TO BEGIN
Have the dog on leash (make sure it is a nice long leash) for control, and also in order to limit her options. Put the leash under your foot so that you have both hands free.
Show the dog the dowel and make sure that it does not suddenly “appear” out of nowhere, which could be frightening. Move slowly and never try to shove the dowel into her face. The dog needs to be aware of all your intentions in advance, and must feel safe and secure. She must feel that the dowel is not going to hurt her or be frightening.
Hold the dowel level with the dog’s mouth and give her a soft gentle command “Fetch”.
If the dog looks at you as if you come from Mars, SMILE and, very gently (keeping the dowel in your right hand in front of her mouth), slide your left-hand finger just behind her large fang in order to open her mouth enough for you to slide the dowel in just behind her fangs.
Be careful not to put the dowel in her mouth too deep or too far back, as it would make her gag, which could make her have a negative association with the concept of holding something in her mouth.
Without bending over her (which would be intimidating), gently cup your hands over her muzzle, and/or tickle the top of her head with one hand and gently support her closed jaw with the other hand. Simultaneously, give the command “Fetch” and “Hold,” with lots of verbal praise, big smiles and encouragement.
Help her in this way for a couple of seconds only, and then - without praise - give the command “Leave” (softly – don’t growl) and remove the dowel. Simultaneously, pop the treat into her mouth. Only give lots of praise and excitement for the “Fetch” and “Hold” section of the exercise, as you want the dog to associate praise with holding and carrying the dowel – not releasing it!
Repeat this several times per day for about a week or so, or until the dog is at the level where she is happy to open her mouth on command.
The next step is to teach her to move her head slightly forward to take the dowel from you hand. The dowel should be held level with the dog’s jaw - a couple of inches away from her face.
At this stage, do not lower the level or the angle at which the dowel is being held. Do this only when she is reliably managing at this height.
Over a period of time, you can gradually increase the distance, until she is managing to retrieve and hold a full arm’s length (which – at this stage - should still be level with her face).
Only once she is coping with a full arm’s length may you begin to lower the angle towards the ground. This must be a very gradual process, and you should stay at each height for a couple of days to ensure that the dog is reliable at each height before moving on.
Take your time before dropping the dowel on the floor. If you rush, you could put the dog off the exercise. Some dogs do not like the feel of sand/grass on their lips and, as the dowel is not raised from the ground like a dumb bell (as the dumb bell has block sides), you do not want the dog to regress.
The next step is to start to teach the dog to pick up the dowel from the floor – but, use the baby steps routine as before. Instead of putting the dowel directly on the floor, start by resting the piece of doweling on two bricks at arm’s length in front of the dog. This is so that the dog’s face does not come into contact with the grass or sand. Many dogs do not like the “feel” of grass or sand on their faces.
Once she is competent at this stage, it is time to (deliberately) regress a couple of stages and replace the dowel with a lightweight wooden dumb bell. As before, make sure that it is suitable for the size of your dog’s jaw and the shape of her mouth, in both size and weight.
Practise as before, until you are at the “brick on the ground” stage. From there on, it is simply a matter of showing the dog that the same is required from the ground. Then, over a period of time, slowly increase the distance that the dumb bell is thrown.
It is imperative that, if at any time the dog regresses, YOU GO BACK TO THE LEVEL WHERE THE DOG WAS COPING COMPETENTLY. Then re-teach, re-learn and refresh, and only work forward from there.


THE INDUCIVE RETRIEVE METHOD
Adapted from the original method developed in Canada by Glen Johnson.
This is a food incentive method that has proved to be very successful for the dog that retrieves and for the dog that is a non-retriever. This method is well proved on novices and on failures (who have tried many other methods).

Most novice dogs retrieve a thrown dumb bell by the end of one evening after the dumb bell is introduced. Real hard-core stubborn dogs take a week. The most defiant dogs that were worked with took eleven evenings! An evening is 3 – 5 hours.

RULES
· Always quit when you get tired and never get upset or angry with the dog.
· Always REMOVE, REWARD AND PRAISE (in that order)!
· No skipping steps – YOU WILL REGRET IT LATER!


LEARNING SEQUENCE

Each learning sequence should be performed as follows:
Do each step three times, and then heel the dog in a circle.
Repeat this sequence three times – in all a total of nine times!
Then REST the dog for three to five minutes.

· REST PERIODS are just that.
Do not play or interact with the dog. Rather read your obedience rules or something non-influential
· The dog must perform each step properly, that is, correctly NINE times in a go before advancing to the next step.
· If the dog refuses to take the dumb-bell, it is gently made to comply, with the minimum of fuss, either by gently brushing against the front teeth, or by sliding the mouth open. Then Remove, Reward, Praise, and repeat the exercise.
· Three refusals in a row is REGRESSION. When this happens (and it will!) REST for ten minutes and begin TWO STEPS BACKWARDS.
· NOTE: The dumb-bell is always presented from above, and the command to retrieve is given as the dumb-bell is given, level with the dog’s eyes. The dumb-bell ends up touching the muzzle, under the nose, UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED!

INTRODUCTION TO THE DOWEL
The piece of doweling used should be about the size of the bar on a normal dumb-bell. This homework is done BEFORE you start dumb-bell work. A good idea is to have it perfected a week before introducing the dumb-bell. The dog should preferably be at the Novice level of training.
IT IS IMPERATIVE THAT THIS PART IS PERFECTED BEFORE GOING ON TO ANY ACTUAL DUMB-BELL WORK!
EQUIPMENT NEEDED:
· 1 x even-tempered dog handler with his/her dog (and a strong back if they are working with a small dog).
· 1 x hungry dog (fasted for 12 hours).
· 1 x piece of wooden doweling, two to three inches long.
· 1 x large bowel of goodies, which have been cut into quarter inch cubes. The goodies can be liver, cheese, sausages – or whatever your dog fancies, even a bit of each!
· 1 x chair.
· 2 hours (this can be utilised in a dog training class or clinic for non- retrievers).

THE COMMAND “FETCH”
STEP ONE:
Have the dog in the heel position, preferably off leash. If that is not possible, drop the leash and place your foot on it, so that you have both hands free. Have the goodies in the right hand and the dowel in the left hand.
1. Present the dowel from above the dog’s eye level – simultaneously giving the command “Fetch” as the dowel passes the dog’s eye level.
2. Gently insist (if necessary) by brushing the dowel against the dog’s teeth, or sliding the dowel into the mouth just behind the fangs.
3. Immediately REMOVE, REWARD AND PRAISE (R.R.P.)!

STEP TWO:
1. Present the dowel and give the command “Fetch.”
2. Hold one end of the dowel down, or hold the mouth gently shut. Wait five seconds then R.R.P., followed with Learning Sequence (L.S.).






THE COMMAND “HOLD”
STEP ONE:
Have the chair with the plate of goodies on it, in front of the handler and dog, at arm’s length.
1. Present dowel, command, “FETCH.”
2. With hand under the dog’s chin (if necessary), prevent the dog from dropping the dowel and give the command “HOLD.”
3. Reach to the chair, grab the goodies and IMMEDIATELY - REMOVE, REWARD AND PRAISE & FOLLOW WITH THE LEARNING SEQUENCE (3 x repeats with a “heel” circle in between).

If at any time the dowel is dropped, put the goodies back onto the chair, present the dowel again, and make sure that you are extremely quick with the goodies!


TEACHING THE DOG TO “CARRY”
STEP ONE:
The chair is now twenty to thirty feet away, or you can use two chairs that are placed thirty feet apart, which saves you having to move around too much. Use only one goodie bowl, and carry it back and forth.
1. Present the dowel and give the command “FETCH.”
2. Give the command “STAY” – walk over to the chair, pick up the goodies, and TURN TO FACE THE DOG. Give the command “COME.” Then, immediately, REMOVE, REWARD, AND PRAISE - FOLLOWED BY THE LEARNING SEQUENCE.

PLEASE NOTE:
At this stage, you are working only for the “HOLD.” Do not correct the dog for any other imperfections. You can, however, encourage the dog with extra commands (till he gets the message) and give him lavish praise.
STEP TWO:
Put the goodies in your pocket, set up three broad dog jumps placed on three sides of a square, about the size of an obedience ring.
1. Have the dog in the “heel” position, and do a few paces of heelwork (between five and ten) and, while moving, present the dowel with the command “FETCH.”
2. After about three to eight paces, HALT, and immediately REMOVE, REWARD AND PRAISE. If the dog encounters the jump, command the dog to jump “OVER” or “HUP” and, if necessary, jump with the dog. If the dog drops the dowel, pick it up and then halt. Re-present the dowel, and immediately REMOVE, REWARD AND PRAISE, followed immediately by the LEARNING SEQUENCE.
IMPORTANT NOTE: This whole method follows the principle that success breeds success, and involves a total lack of negative training! A correction involves merely having to perform the exercise again, with help, in order to prevent the dog from making a mistake, so that you have an opportunity to reward the dog for his success! This method will prevail throughout this retrieve programme. The dog works for the reward, but loves the training because he is not punished for the mistakes and he always succeeds!

GUESS WHAT? YOU ARE NOW READY FOR THE SECOND PART OF THIS PROGRAMME!
Set your mind for the positive approach! Your dog has now experienced the retrieve command and the hold command, and has developed a positive association with the learning sequence. Make sure that you do not feed the dog for at least 12 hours prior to the next step and, if possible, allow the dog an hour or so in solitude and silence before beginning the session. This will add to the value of the lesson. He should now consider how nice it is to be with you and to train with you. And, of course, the other advantage is that he is also HUNGRY!








DUMB-BELL RETRIEVE TRAINING
THE COMMAND “FETCH”
Have the goodies at your side, the dog may sit or stand: Remember The RULES!!!
FETCH:
Present the dumb-bell, and give the command “FETCH.”
STEP ONE:
The dog takes the dumb-bell in his mouth and the handler helps the dog to hold it. Then, immediately RRP and LS.
STEP TWO:
The dog takes the dumb-bell in his mouth and holds it - on his own accord or assisted - and then the handler immediately RRP and LS.

READY:
STEP ONE:
The dog has to reach or stretch his head ONE INCH in front of his nose to take the dumb-bell. The handler holds the dumb-bell or helps the dog to hold it and then immediately RRP and LS.
STEP TWO:
The dog has to reach ONE INCH in front of his nose to take the dumb-bell. The dog now has to hold the dumb-bell on his own for a second or two, and then immediately RRP and LS.
STEP THREE:
The dog has to reach collar height from the floor, with the handler holding the dumb-bell, and then the handler immediately RRP and LS.
STEP FOUR:
The dog reaches out to the collar height. The dog holds the dumb-bell on his own accord and then the handler immediately RRP and LS.
STEP FIVE:
The dog reaches out to elbow height. The handler holds the dumb-bell, helping if necessary, and then the handler immediately RRP and LS.
STEP SIX:
The dog reaches out to elbow height, the dog holds the dumb-bell on his own accord, and then the handler immediately RRP and LS.
STEP SEVEN:
The dog reaches to the floor. Make sure that you do not take your hand off the dumbbell! The handler holds, and then immediately RRP and LS.
STEP EIGHT:
The dog reaches to the floor – the dog holds the dumbbell and then immediately RRP and LS.

THE COMMAND “HOLD”

HOLD:

The goodies are now six feet from the handler. The dog
may sit or stand. Present the dumb-bell and give the
command “HOLD.”
STEP ONE:
The dog reaches out one inch and holds the dumb-bell – immediately RRP and LS.
STEP TWO:
The dog reaches out to collar height and holds the dumb-bell – immediately RRP and LS.
STEP THREE:
The dog reaches elbow height. The dog holds the dumb-bell and immediately RRP and LS.
STEP FOUR:
The dog reaches to the floor. The dog holds the dumb-bell and then immediately RRP and LS.
STEP FIVE:
The handler holds one end of the dumb-bell on the floor and then the dog holds – immediately RRP and LS.
STEP SIX:
The handler places the dumb-bell on the floor and the dog moves forward and picks up the dumb-bell, immediately followed by RRP and LS.






PLACE RETRIEVE

RETRIEVE:
The goodies are now kept behind the handler and the dog stands.
STEP ONE:
The handler places the dumb-bell on the floor, and then gives the command “FETCH.” The dog holds, immediately RRP and LS.
STEP TWO:
The handler takes one step, places the dumb-bell on the floor and gives the command “FETCH.” The dog holds and then immediately RRP and LS.
STEP THREE:
The handler takes one step, places the dumb-bell on the floor and gives the command “FETCH.” Then the handler takes two steps backwards. The dog picks up and holds the dumb-bell and immediately RRP and LS.
STEP FOUR:
The handler takes one step, places the dumb-bell on the floor, and then takes one step back to the dog and gives the command “FETCH.” The dog moves forward, picks up the dumb-bell, and then carries it one step towards the handler - immediately RRP and LS.
STEP FIVE:
The handler takes two steps, places the dumb-bell on the floor, takes two steps back to the dog, gives the command – the dog then carries it two steps towards the handler – then - immediately RRP and LS.
STEP SIX:
The handler takes three steps, places the dumb-bell on the floor, then takes three steps back to the dog, gives the command. The dog then carries the dumb-bell three steps towards the handler – then - immediately RRP and LS.

RETRIEVE
RETRIEVE:
Goodies behind handler, dog stands; give commands while the dumb-bell is moving!
STEP ONE:
Handler slides the dumb-bell out three feet on the floor - the dog carries – then immediately RRP and LS.
STEP TWO:
Handler slides the dumb-bell out four feet on the floor – the dog carries – then immediately RRP and LS.
STEP THREE:
Handler slides dumb-bell out five feet on the floor – the dog carries – then immediately RRP and LS.
STEP FOUR:
Handler tosses dumb-bell out six feet onto the floor, the dog carries – then immediately RRP and LS.
STEP FIVE:
Handler tosses the dumb-bell seven feet out onto the floor, the dog carries – then immediately RRP and LS
STEP SIX:
The handler tosses the dumb-bell out nine feet onto the floor, the dog carries – then immediately RRP and LS

THE REAL THING

THE REAL THING:
Goodies behind handler – dog sitting.
STEP ONE:

Gently restrain the dog by holding him by the collar, give the command to “WAIT” – toss the dumb-bell about nine feet forward which should be increased by about a foot each time that you throw it. Give the command “FETCH” – the dog retrieves, returns to the handler, then immediately RRP and LS.
STEP TWO:

Give the command ‘WAIT,” then toss the dumb-bell nine feet forward – again remember to increase the distance by about a foot each time you throw it. The dog is then sent – performs the retrieve with the command “FETCH” – immediately on return RRP and LS.

THE AFTER RULES!
Always offer the dog his regular diet after a training session. However, for the real, hard-core “non-retriever,” you can skip meals for a day after three negative evenings of training. Keep in mind that, if you follow the programme exactly, then the dog does know what to do, but is possibly simply refusing to cooperate. He is only considered reliable when he has performed each command reliably for over a week.

You will find that after a while that the dog will retrieve at the oddest times, stealing the dumb-bell and showing other unusual behaviours. DO NOT STIFLE THE DOG’S ENTHUSIASM! If the dog steals the dumb-bell, remember to still RRP and perform the LS to reinforce the training! If he breaks a “stay” to retrieve – SAY AND DO NOTHING!!

Let the dog work it out for himself! Prevent the error next time by gently holding him by the collar and emphasising the “WAIT’ command, and then work on your “STAYS” when you are not practising dumb-bell work.


That’s all for now folks! In the next issue we will focus on some other aspects of training and behaviour. Please send me your news and views and I will be happy to include any subject matter that you would like to see in the newsletter. You are most welcome to pass this newsletter onto any of your friends – but it may not be printed without prior consent of said authors of the relevant articles. You can also contribute, comment or start any new topic on the Paws Abilities News and Views Blog Page - where the newsletter and any other questions or comments will be answered. The Blog is situated on the M Web Home Page and entitled “Paws Abilities News and Views”.

Best Regards
Louise
Paws Abilities Behaviour & Learning Centre