Paws News December 2007

Paws Abilities Behaviour & Learning Centre
Newsletter Number 13 December 2007

A warm welcome to all Paws connections! Well, we held the final workshop of the year last weekend and it was a great success. We covered various topics, including:-

Ø Hyperactivity & excitable behaviour
Ø Noise and thunder/firework phobias
Ø Grooming issues – prevention and solutions
Ø Separation anxiety
Ø And if we have time - kids and dogs, and preparing the dog for the arrival of a new human baby
We did not have time to go through the final section but I have put it in the proceedings.

I would like to take this opportunity to thank all those who attended, we appreciate your support, and the proceeds have gone to be used for various sterilisations of underprivileged animals.

Thanks also must go to Maureen and Rose for the wonderful treats they provided for us to eat each and every workshop, and of course to the others who helped, Mandy, Siobhan, Lindie and Emma – all of whose help was greatly appreciated.

I have copies of each workshop’s proceedings if anyone is interested please give me a shout. They are on sale (to cover printing costs) at R35 each plus packaging and postage. You can contact me via e mail at louthomp@mweb.co.za or telephone (office hours) 011 969-4467 or mobile 082-890-0905

TRAINING THROUGHOUT THE SILLY SEASON
Although we do wind down a bit over Christmas, the training school (behaviour practice and grooming parlour) is open right through December and January and we will make up classes of whoever is present. This is often a fun time for students, (and instructors) as we try to play (even more) games and have lots of fun. So if you are not going away – join us for some fun and games during the silly season!

YEAR END FUNCTION
We have decided to hold back on our year end bring and braai this year, as most of our students seem to be fully booked with various other events. We have therefore decided to have a bring and braai after the New Year. All students will be informed as soon as we set a date.


FEARS AND PHOBIAS
Many forms of problem behaviour are a result of a dog's fears. Some people assume shy dogs are more likely to be afraid and anxious. In fact, assertive dogs are more likely to worry about things over which they have no control but your dog's temperament may have little to do with anxiety. Anything that is new or unfamiliar to your dog could pose a threat to his life so it is normal for a dog to fear the unusual. A dog can become anxious if frequently exposed to something he fears. In the home environment, where your dog has you to protect him, this anxiety is unnecessary.

Your first instinct when your dog displays anxious behaviour such as trembling or hiding, is to comfort him by petting, sooth him with your voice or pick him up. Reassurances DO make him feel better but comforting also rewards him for acting afraid and makes it more likely that he will use the same strategy next time he needs to feel better. With some dogs, this becomes a problem. These dogs begin trembling and whining any time they feel they are not getting attention or whenever something new is expected of them. This is not an "act" because the dog actually feels anxious and fearful. You can help your dog overcome fear and prevent anxiety by ignoring anxious behaviour and rewarding appropriate attention seeking (such as play or obedience).

Phobias
If your dog is genuinely frightened of a specific person, object, or event that can be avoided, it is appropriate to simply avoid it. However, some dogs fear common events that can't be prevented, car rides, the groomer, or sunglasses.

You can help your dog overcome fear and prevent anxiety by ignoring anxious behaviour and rewarding behaviour that you prefer. Find something that your dog really likes; liver treats or a squeaky toy. Plan an activity that usually brings about anxious behaviour. If your dog is anxious around strangers, have a friend come over, a stranger to your dog. Ignore any trembling, whining or hiding. Sit beside or perpendicular to your friend (face-to-face orientation signals confrontation to a dog). Bounce a ball or share food with your friend while you talk for half an hour or so. Act happy and acknowledge your dog calmly each time he moves to play or stops shivering.

Don’t INVITE the dog to approach you by calling him or offering food but ignore all fearful behaviour and respond to all interactive behaviour. At any sign of overwhelming the dog, go back to a previous level of exposure to the fearful situation, perhaps by moving away from your friend or going outside to talk. Work up to the new level gradually.

If your dog is afraid of storms, you can buy a recording of thunderstorms and adjust the volume over the course of a half hour while playing with a ball or feeding him. The dog will NOT think the recording is a real storm. Storms include changes in temperature and barometric pressure so the recording is just a good first step to reduce his fear of the sounds that accompany a storm. Again, act happy and reward all interactive behaviour while ignoring all anxious behaviour. During a regular storm, offer your dog the same rewards for calm behaviour. If your dog is usually motivated by food but won't eat during a storm, wait until you see lightning and offer a delicious food treat that takes a moment to chew. Your dog will be gulping it down just as the thunder claps, perfectly timing the reward for NOT being afraid.

If your dog is afraid of riding in the car, reward him for jumping in and out of the car without taking a trip. The next day, start the car while rewarding him but do not take a trip. Then take several short trips so that you can stop the trip before he becomes overwhelmed. Be sure most trips end in happy events and not just the kennel or the vet's office. The point is to cheer your dog through becoming accustomed to the things he used to fear.

During this retraining period, be sure that all "new" experiences are good ones. Protect your dog by taking him out for a walk or into another room if you have repairmen or guests arriving when you have not prepared them in advance. You may ask your vet to prescribe a tranquilizer for impending storms or trips that will occur before you have had time to retrain your dog. Don't train when your dog is taking a sedative. Other medications, such as antidepressants may help a dog with chronic anxiety. Be sure to ask your vet about the effects of medication on learning and activity level. You cannot train a tranquilized dog but dogs on antidepressants can continue to learn.

Repetitive licking
There is a special manifestation of anxiety in which dogs lick a front paw at the "wrist" or flank so that a skin irritation develops. This is not usually related to allergies or flea dermatitis. A dog may spend hours licking the area. To stop the behaviour you can apply an anti lick ointment such as YUK to your dog's fur. In addition to the ointment, reward your dog any time he is NOT licking by stopping to pat him or offering him a toy. Ignore all licking behaviour. If you play with your dog to distract him from licking, he will learn to lick to get you to play. Only invite him to play when he is NOT licking. If your dog has caused a skin lesion, you should talk to your vet about some of the medications used to treat anxiety. Some licking habits have a neurological or inherited basis that responds to medication.

Separation anxiety
If your dog's anxious behaviour only occurs when you are not home, often referred to as separation anxiety, you can gradually accustom your dog to staying alone, just as you accustom him to other fear inducing situations. The most common problem with anxiety in dogs is destructive behaviour by the dog when the dog is left alone. There are many reasons a dog may misbehave when left unsupervised and most of them are NOT from anxiety. If your dog ONLY chews destructively or eliminates inside when you are not home, and never makes a mistake any other time, anxiety could be the problem.

A reliable indication that destructive behavior is related to anxiety is that the dog, if offered a treat when the owner leaves (good idea), doesn't eat it until the owner comes home. Once the owner arrives, the dog immediately runs to get the treat and wolfs it down. This indicates the dog's level of anxiety when alone is high enough to preclude eating. This is a pretty high level of anxiety, which could result in destructive behaviour. Destructive behaviour or house soiling when left alone is NOT spiteful behaviour. Don't fall into the trap of thinking your dog KNOWS what she did is wrong because she avoids you when you come home. Slinking around is just canine appeasement behaviour. You can prove this to yourself by putting one of your socks on the floor. Now, point to it, put your hands on your hips, and start yelling. Appeasement behaviour. You know she didn't do anything and so does she. Why is she acting "guilty"? She is appeasing you to avoid conflict. If you are her leader, appeasing you is her job.
When dogs are anxious they feel the urge to eliminate. The more anxious they get, the less likely they are to be able to wait. Additionally, some scent marking that occurs with elimination is reassuring to a dog. Therefore, elimination, temporarily, makes the dog feel better. Chewing also makes a dog feel better. It's distracting and helps relieve nervous energy. In fact, dogs sometimes chew things that smell the most like you, a chair you sit in, a shoe or your clothing.

If your dog is suffering from separation anxiety he or she probably has experienced one or more of the following past experiences:
Loss: If a puppy loses his or her mother before 8 weeks of age (if the puppy also lost her littermates anxiety is even more common), anaclitic depression can occur. This "depression" can cause an extreme fear of being alone that results in refusal to eat or relax when alone as well as generalized anxiety or neediness even when you are with her.

Isolation: Lack of companionship between 8 and 16 weeks of age, such as being caged alone at a pet store or kept in a kennel that does not allow puppies to play together, can contribute to anxiety later in life. Puppies raised in un-stimulating environments can be afraid of new things and generally insecure.

Abandonment: If a dog is abandoned by her previous owner, she knows that sometimes people leave forever. Separation is more difficult for these animals.

Life on the Streets: Stray dogs have to pay attention to everything. Over attention, called hyper-vigilance, is necessary to acquire food and avoid being attacked or trapped. You may see this expressed as excessive energy or a barking at activities that are normal household events.

Inherited predisposition: Some dogs are bred to watch and notice everything so their hyper-vigilance is instinctive and genetic. Sheepdogs, guard dogs and in some cases, sporting dogs inherit this type of obsessive attentiveness. This can make them nervous or easily bored. These breeds are designed to work with a human companion all day. They may not be prepared for hours alone in a working family.

Schedule Changes: An owner previously at home becomes a full time worker and the dog has no time to adjust to staying alone. When you adopt a dog from the shelter or a rescue organization you can pretty much count on changing her schedule.

Treating separation anxiety
You can't undo the experiences your dog has already had. That's ok. Dogs are born to learn. If the damage done by your dog is severe enough that you need to confine her to protect her from harm and your house from damage, click the crate link here to read about introducing your dog to a cage properly. A crate will keep your dog from hurting herself or your belongings during a retraining period of two months. However, a crate cannot be used to confine a dog for 8 hours and can't be introduced suddenly. As an alternative, teach your dog to stay alone using a tie down while you are home, described below. Make your coming and going rituals less emotional. No long goodbyes and no excited greetings. In fact, ignore your dog for 5 minutes before you leave and 5 minutes after you arrive.

Try not to jingle the keys and do not rush out of the house with coat and shoes flying. Keep it mellow. You can even help your dog by jingling your keys for no reason throughout the day so this noise is no longer a signal to panic. Do not serve dinner to your dog immediately after you arrive home. This just makes an association between your arrival and hunger ... you don’t want to create a need for dinner as well as your company. When you leave for the day, add white noise to your dog's environment, especially for hyper-vigilant dogs or point of access destruction (windows and doorways). You might have success with TV or radio if they are likely to be on when you are home. Tune to the station you listen to or try talk radio. Even if your dog will not eat when alone, offer her a Kong or Buster Ball stuffed with treats whenever you leave. Put the treat away as soon as you come home--during the ignoring. Your dog needs to learn this special treat is only available while she is alone.

Hire a dog walker to break up the day. You may also consider doggie day care. It's no joke. The dogs have a great day, make friends, and are tired from a hard day just like you. Great solution for those herding breeds. The dog must have three exercise periods each week (more is better) in which the he becomes tired (health conditions accounted for). Joining a dog play group at
A local park is a fitting activity. A structured activity, like fly ball or agility training is also good.

Teach your dog to accept confinement while you are home with a crate or tie down. A tie down is simply a leash that is too short to tangle, anchored to the floor or wall in your home. Attach your dog to the tie down with in reach of his comfortable bed. Sit just out of reach and read a book. Reward your dog for lying down, playing with toys, or ignoring you by petting him or tossing treats in his direction the instant he is not whining or pulling against the tie down. Use a phrase that will become a command later, such as "Relax". Gradually move farther away until you are out of view. This will teach your dog the behaviour you accept while you are out of view. Do not use a tie down to confine a dog when you are not home. It's a training aid for correcting behaviour and useful when you are home and require the dog to rest quietly when he does not need to be on a commanded stay.

You may want to consult with your veterinarian about temporarily medicating your dog. Sedating her is NOT recommended. Tranquilizers keep her asleep but do nothing for her state of mind. Valium will make it difficult for her to remember anything so she will not learn that staying home is ok. These types of drugs will not help you in the retraining process. However, there are many medications that may help. Your vet can discuss all your options.


COPROPHAGIA [Poop-eaters]
Submitted by Carol Web

The client called with a complaint that her healthy 10-month-old spayed female Cocker Spaniel had started eating her own faeces in the back yard about 3 months earlier. The family consisted of Mom, Dad and twin 6-year-old girls. When Mom first saw the dog, "Elsie”, perform the foul act, she burst from the house, grabbed her by the collar, slapped her rump and chased her into the house. Toilet times occurred twice a day and Mother was generally in charge of letting the dog out, etc. Unless one of the parents was with Elsie, she would defecate and turn immediately for her bonus meal.

The owners felt the problem was becoming unbearable... her cesspool breath was taking all the joy out of owning what was otherwise a sweet and lovable family companion. A thorough veterinary check, including urine, faecal and blood panels, found no physical/medical reason for her compulsive behaviour.

This case is not unusual, sad to say. Coprophagy [eating excrement] very often starts in dogs near the end of their growth-burst phase in physical development. This also coincides with a feeding change that many owners feel they should make; they cut down from two meals per day to one. Such was the case in Elsie's schedule. In addition, it occurred just before the onset of the problem.

We explained to the couple that dogs retain food on their stomachs for only 7-9 hours after eating, after which they experience an empty tummy. Many dogs try to fill this gnawing void by drinking copious amounts of water, often creating a household urination problem. Others, while still defecating twice a day, turn on the stool that is passed at the time they formerly would have eaten their second feeding on the old schedule.

The remedy in this case required returning to Elsie's twice a day schedule by splitting her single meal quantity in two. She was also put on the "No Free Lunch”, or “How to be Your Dog’s Boss” program, during which she was told pleasantly to "Elsie, Sit" whenever she sought attention or petting. She was praised and petted briefly, then released with a code-word and verbally praised again. This helps gain her orientation to the owners as leaders, while helping to fulfil her canine need to function. Then, to deal with the habit, she was accompanied to the toilet area after each meal. The instant she finished eliminating, Mom or Dad clapped their hands once and rushed toward the back door. Fortunately, Elsie was a peach of a dog and ran right with them. Some dogs have to be called with a panic recall command to attract them. Others have to be kept on leash and gently pulled away from the stool. However, if the "No free Lunch" program is faithfully followed, the single handclap usually suffices and leaving the stool and toilet area soon becomes a conditioned behaviour, i.e., the handclap is no longer needed. Stools are then picked up at a time when the dog cannot watch the owners.

Some health and nutritional conditions that contribute to coprophagy are:

Pancreatitis, often transient
Intestinal infections
Food allergies, creating mal-absorption
Over-feeding, which leads to undigested faecal matter.
Allelomimetic behaviour, i.e., dog watches owner picking up stools and takes up the practice as well. Which is why the "Secret Clean-Up" is a must for correction.

Elsie responded quickly and, at last check, effectively. She has not devoured her poop in several weeks and, further, shows no interest in it after defecating.

In a later issue, I will discuss dogs that eat other dog’s poop – which is a slightly different behaviour.


Allelomimetic Hostility in Family Dogs
Taken from the web – (apologies I forget which site)!
A newly married couple (no children) with two 2 year old, intact, male, littermate Siberian Huskies, sought help for what they described as "fighting that starts for no reason.” During the fact-finding interview they were asked to describe all the events that led up to the very first fight the dogs ever had. It occurred after dinner on a weekend about three months ago. The couple were in the kitchen cleaning up the dishes when the dogs started fighting in the room behind them.

They were both shocked, seeing the dogs locked onto each other cheeks; neither one seemed ready to let go of the other. Both had choke chain collars on and the husband grabbed both collars while the wife screamed, the dogs let go and both bit him on the forearms, releasing their bites immediately. He let go of the chokers and dogs resumed their contest, while the husband began kicking them to stop, what he feared would be serious bloodshed. Fortunately, the husband slipped and fell on his back, whereupon the dogs quit fighting, ran out of the kitchen, and stood in the living room, panting, but none the worse for wear. The only
blood was from fang scrapes on the husband arms. Both dogs displayed excellent bite inhibition, both in the fight and on their defensive reaction to being choked by the husband's grasp on the choke chains collars.

All this gory detail was great drama, but we still hadn't learned what caused the fight. So the interview continued to focus on the dinner table. I asked what they had been talking about during the meal and afterwards. Bingo! As is so often the case in family fighters, it turns out the couple had been having a heated argument about money problems during dinner. There had been quite a bit of shouting. The verbal slings continued during unsetting the table and the wash-up in the kitchen. They usually saved a bit of dinner as a treat for the dogs when the dished were done. It was at this time that the dog fight started... just as the treat was expected.


Allelomimetic behaviour is most graphically seen in schools of fish and flocks of flying birds.... as the leader goes, so does the flock, almost in unison. The meaning of this Greek term, "mutual mimicry" takes on new dimensions between humans and their domestic pets... it often expresses itself as "feel-like, act-like, be-like" behavior. Hence, the owners primed their dogs with hostility quite effective during the dinner, carried it into the kitchen, and then the dogs came together in a competitive situation...vying for the first morsel. The owners usually had both dogs sit before presenting the treat because some growling had started a few weeks before as they waited for their titbits.

Unfortunately, allelomimetic behaviour receives scant attention from the majority of experts in the field of pet animal behaviour. However, it plays a major role in diagnosing the causes of pet dog behaviour problems, from destructive chewing to aggression. It is especially important in cases bearing the catch-all diagnosis "separation anxiety”, so much in vogue these days. However, since allelomimetic behaviour was part of the cause for the dogs' fighting, it was also a major part of the cure.

These clients were quick to appreciate their role in the first, as well as nearly every one of the following battles their "boys" had waged. Therefore, I simply asked them how they could use this dynamic behavioural tool to solve the problem. After a long silence, they looked at each other and, exchanging knowing smiles, suggested that they should work out their money problems privately, or at least not speak angrily in front of the dogs. Then, they said they might start acting happy during and after dinner or whenever the dogs seemed to be getting up tight or were in close quarters, which had triggered a few fights. "So, what do you think?" they asked. I told them they had very accurately described our program for fighting dogs, right down to the act-happy routine, which I call the "Jolly Routine," This case spanned the usual six weeks, during which the couple taught the dogs some basic off-leash obedience commands (using allelomimetic behaviour) to Come, Sit, Stay, Heel and Down. At the end, they said even their three year old
marriage was back on a happy and highly satisfying track.

This case has an important moral for all dog owners... "If you want happy dogs, then be happy people."


CLICKER TRAINING TIPS
Managing the Treat-Free Competition Ring

Q: How do I move from food treats to praise only?
A: This question is often asked by pet owners or crossover trainers who are wary of being overly reliant on food in training and by competition obedience trainers who know they can't use food in the ring.

All treats, all the time I reply to each the same way: if your dog does the work, he deserves a paycheck. Praise can be an effective reinforcer, but most dogs are unwilling to work for praise alone. This means that if you want to maintain the strength of the behaviour you must continue to reward it, even if you are training for competition.

Patty Ruzzo, an extremely successful competition trainer, is often asked about "fading"—phasing out-food treats before competition. She says, "If you knew a famine was coming, would you starve your children to prepare them for it?” Of course not! You would feed them!

The only time you cannot reinforce your dog with food is during the trial performance itself. Think how many times you practice the required behaviours ahead of time. Actual performance is a small percentage of that total. Why deprive yourself of one the most powerful-not to mention incredibly convenient-reinforces available to you during training?

Realities of the ring
All that said, you do need to phase in alternative reinforces at some point, so the dog will not go into total shock in the ring. In addition, if you are a pet owner, you will sometimes need to use alternative rewards so your dog will remain happy and willing even when you do not have food available.

As noted earlier in this chapter, you have a whole slew of reinforces available to you. Once you have chosen your alternative rewards, it is time to phase them in like any other criteria starting slow and building gradually over time. Here is a series of steps you might use:

Do ten repetitions, or "reps”, reinforcing with food after each one. Do ten reps. reinforce with food after nine of them, with an alternative reinforcer after one. (Which one? Randomize. Number ten slips of paper, put them in a hat, mix them up, and draw one to determine which rep you will reward with the alternative reinforcer. For example, you draw number three, so you do two reps with food, then use the alternative reinforcer on the next one, then reinforce with food for the remainder of the session.)

Do ten reps, reinforcing with food after eight of them, with an alternative reinforcer for two. Randomize to determine which two.

Do ten reps. reinforce with food for seven and use an alternative reinforcer for the other three.

And so on. If you have properly conditioned your alternative reinforces, there should be no lessening of attitude, since you are still using a reward of value. If there is a change in attitude, go back to basics and try to increase the value of your reinforcer more gradually.

One final word: Just because your dog now understands that the behaviour may not be followed by, a food treat does not mean you should cut out food treats entirely. Think of training along a bell curve; for every time you train without food, you should have a session using food only, and most sessions should fall somewhere in the middle-sometimes a few more food rewards, sometimes a few more alternative rewards. Be unpredictable!


Use and misuse of treats
Treats are supposed to be used as reward for work well done. They are most definitely not supposed to be used when the dog begs for them... This is not only a matter of me not liking that you "spoil your dog" with too much love (I don't think there is such a thing as "too much love"), but because it destroys your relationship with the dog!

Let us look at the classic example: You sit in your chair and watch a good movie. The dog is bored. It wants some attention. You don't have time for that right now. When the dog pushes your hand with its nose, you get a little annoyed, but your soft heart also bleeds a bit - you feel sorry about the dog not enjoying the show too - so you give it a treat and say, "go, lie down". The dog takes the treat and eats it, leaving you alone for a little while. What is wrong with this picture? Isn't everybody happy?

Well, how about this picture then: You go to your chair, preparing for the movie you want to watch. Your dog follows you. When you sit down, it pushes your hand to get a treat. You ignore it. It pushes again. You say, "Go, lie down" - but the dog does not go away. It pushes your hand. You get a little angry. Now the dog puts a paw on your lap, demonstratively, and pushes your hand with its nose. You are a little ticked off now, so you tell the dog to lie down again. It does not. It scratches your thigh with its paw, pushes your hand with the nose, and when you still ignore it, it sits right in front of you and barks at you, as it jumps up at you and pushes your hand with its nose....

The only difference between these two stories is the time that has elapsed from the first to the second. Because, what you inevitably will get out of repeating the first is the second!

Here are your "Four Boxes" that explain it:

Command
Sight of you in your chair in front of the TV
-->Incitement - The dog is bored
- It wants some attention and you are the only pack member around

-->Reaction
The dog uses a natural begging gesture (nose-nudge against your hand)
-->Reward - The dog gets a treat...

In addition, what will come out of this sequences when repeated just 4-6 times?
Yes, you got it! This:

Command
Sight of you in your chair in front of the TV

-->Reaction
The dog uses a natural begging gesture (nose-nudge against your hand)
-->Reward - The dog gets a treat...

Further: when you have "worked on" the above result just a few times, you can leave out the reward in the end 5-10 as many times as the "training" took you - and you will still have some remains of your training survive... However, if you try to resist giving the reward, and the dog now insists on getting its treat, and you then try to "buy some peace" with a treat ("Okay, okay, okay - you get a treat, but then you have to leave me alone!"), you are really in deep trouble - because now you are rewarding the dog's persistency and continued nagging for its treat, ignoring your first refusal! Moreover, just for the record: dogs do not barter like that - they just learn from their experience - and the experience in this case was that persistency pays off...

Now - if the only consequence of a less-than-perfect training method like this would be that you could not watch TV; I probably would not care.... (I do not watch TV myself...). However, the consequences are far worse....

This is what you get:

Command
You want to watch TV
-->Incitement
The dog wants a treat
-->Reaction
You give the dog a treat
-->Reward
You get to watch TV

Take a good look at this.... and tell me what it is!

A very common mistake when using treats for training Treats are good when used as reward. No doubt. They can also be very good when used as incitement! There are many exercises where you can have great use of a treat as both the reward and the incitement.

Example: Getting the dog to put the bum on the ground. The treat can be a great reward. In addition, if you move it right up to the dog's nose and then slightly upwards backwards, 95% of all dogs will sit down when trying to follow the treat with the nose. (This is the famous "treat zipper" - referring to the zipper-like movement with the hand when you want the dog to sit at your side when practising "Heeling".)

The problem with using the treat as incitement, however, is that few people think about what the command now becomes... In addition, that is where they get trapped! Here is how it goes: you prepare yourself for the exercise. You pull your treat out. You give your command. You then use the treat zipper. The dog performs - and you reward the dog with the treat. Great, eh?

Not so! Look at the sequence of events one more time...In the first place, yes - you will get the result you want: the dog will learn
to perform on your command.... However, it will not last long. The reason is here:

Command
The dog notices your treat
-->Incitement
You give the command
-->Reaction
The dog performs
-->Reward
The dog gets a treat

Oops - right? This is the inevitable result of this training when the incitement makes itself redundant:

Command
The dog notices your treat
-->Reaction
The dog performs
-->Reward
The dog gets a treat

From here to extortion, like in the TV scene, is a very short time...Avoiding this is simple, though - when you understand the Four Boxes. You just do not pull out that treat until after your command! Then the unwanted training sequence will never take place. Your dog will instead learn to respond reliably to the command - and you will get a result that is not depending on "bribing"
the dog with the treat first. ("Bribing" is really nothing but having taught the dog to use the smell of the treat as command - not your word or sign...)"Bribing" is, of course, a despicable result that has very limited use. No blame on those trainers that do not want that kind of result of their training! Nevertheless, I hope you also see that this is not a matter of using treats or not using treats. It is a matter using treats right - or misusing them.



HOW TO OVERCOME TRAINING WITH DISTRACTIONS!
Once you leave your house with your dogs - often all your training will appear to go down the drain. How do you overcome these distractions? Find out right now!
What is reinforcement? Reinforcement is what happens when a behaviour is maintained or increased. Dog training is essentially a progression of reinforcements. Food, toys, play, attention, and 'life rewards' such as being let inside or taken for a walk are all potential reinforces.
Without reinforcement, behaviour will never be maintained or increased. This is fine if you want a behaviour to disappear - simply stop reinforcing it. However, if you want a particular behaviour, you need to reinforce it.
Most dog trainers these days use food as a reinforcer. It is by no means the only reinforcer, but food is convenient and, let's face it, all dogs need to eat!
So we start off training with food in a quiet, distraction-free area inside the house. We put any other pets out of the room. We turn off the TV. We wait until the kids are in bed. Then we shut the door and train. There are numerous books and articles explaining how to do this, so I will not re-hash the basics.
The problems begin when we get out of that distraction-free environment and into the real world. Here there are other dogs, birds, squirrels, cats, new smells, sights, sounds, people, cars, bikes, postmen - it's all out there! Our training usually starts falling apart once we leave the house.
However, it does not need to. The big secret to dog training is to always set the dog up for success. If the dog fails, we cannot reinforce. If we cannot reinforce, behaviour cannot be maintained or increased. If behaviour has not been maintained or increased, training has failed.
Therefore, we need to set the dog up to succeed. Going too far, too fast will only lead to failure. Allowing too many distractions or too big a distraction too soon is setting our dog up to fail. Without success, we have got nothing to reinforce.
The best way to set our dogs up for success is to control the environment as best we possibly can until they are well and truly proofed and ready for the big wide world.
Let's say we normally train in our kitchen with the door shut. Here is a list of things we can do to set up some low-level distractions:
1. Place a tennis ball in the middle of the floor2. Turn the radio on softly, and then turn it up gradually throughout our training session3. Have a friend come into the room with us4. Put a piece of stale dog food on the floor5. Wave our arms around6. Turn the taps on halfway through an exercise7. Whistle a tune8. Roll a tennis ball slowly in front of our dog9. Turn away from our dog
Alternatively, any combination of the above…………………
Remember, the secret is to always set our dogs up for success, so that we may reinforce (maintain or increase) their good behaviour.
If any of the distractions on that list are too much, then our dog fails. Just because I wrote it on my list of low-level distractions does not mean that your individual dog will not find any one of those things too distracting.
Be creative. Think of new things to add to the list. When your dog can cope with them all, start making up combinations. Invite two or more friends around to help. Have them toss a ball back and forth while you practise stays or recalls. Have one of them whistle a tune while the other waves her arms around. The sky is the limit so long as we always set our dogs up for success.
When we have trained with distractions inside the house, we are ready to find a quiet spot outside. No other dogs around, no kids playing, no cars screaming past, and hopefully no cats or squirrels. We train the behaviour, and then start adding the distractions from our list, always setting our dog up to succeed.
That is all there is to it - manufacture some controlled distractions, build them up, and always make them just easy enough you’re your dog/s continually succeed so that you can reinforce the behaviour.

That’s all for now folks. I would like to take this opportunity to wish all Paws Friends and Connections a very Merry Christmas and a safe and happy New Year!

Best Regards
Louise

PROBLEM PETS? Book NOW for a Private Behaviour Consultation.

Does your pet exhibit any of the following unwanted behaviours?
Aggression towards people or pets.
Anxiety, neurosis, fears or phobias
Self- mutilation.
Fighting or incompatibilities.
Digging or destructive chewing.
Escaping or gate bolting.
Excessive barking or howling.
Inappropriate toilet habits.
Tail chasing, spinning, or shadow chasing.
Hyper sexuality, leg/object mounting.
Disobedience, excitability, jumping up etc.
Physical disabilities.


THE BEHAVIOUR CONSULTATION: (Advanced booking is essential.)
Ø On the day of the appointment, the pet & family members will be seen at the Paws Abilities Consulting rooms, or occasionally, under special circumstances the pet will be seen in the owner’s home.
Ø When seen at the Paws Abilities consulting rooms, on consultation, the pet will be placed in a secure area, where observations will be made, whilst a full background and history is taken, and all problems being experienced are fully discussed.
Ø After an in-depth evaluation, an immediate prognosis is given, followed by a brief oral outline of what is needed for a successful resolution. This is backed up by a full written report, detailing the step by step instructions needed for success.
Ø The cost varies according to time/location etc, and an average of 2 hours is needed.
Ø The fee includes: the consultation, a detailed written report, and telephonic back up.
Ø A successful outcome depends largely on owner co-operation, compliance, & consistency.

For Gentle Solutions – That Work!
For the “LOVE” of Dogs!

Louise Thompson – Accredited Animal Behaviour Consultant.
Accredited Animal Behaviour Consultant & Professional Dog Trainer:
Accredited in 1995 with the Animal Behaviour Consultants of SA (©®™).
Certificate of Companion Animal Behaviour (Faculty of Veterinary Science,
Department of Ethology, University of Pretoria) 1996
Certificate of Advanced Companion Animal Behaviour (Pretoria Technikon) 1997
Member of (SAADOI) the SA Association of Dog Obedience Instructors &
various overseas “Like” organisations for animal trainers and animal behaviourists

Paws Abilities

Specialists in …
DOG TRAINING
EARLY PUPPY EDUCATION
ANIMAL BEHAVIOUR PROBLEMS

No Shouting! No Choke Chains! No Punishment!


Early puppy education group (from 7 weeks of age)
Proof of inoculation is required.

All Breeds of dogs and all ages most welcome!
Domestic and show, fun dog training classes.
Flyball, trick training & dog sports (games) available.
Private tuition and home training available.
Evening agility & dog jumping classes .
Specialised clicker training available!
Behaviour consultations for problem pets.
Special “social” training class available!
E mail consultations available.
Pet “Matching”.
Settling of new pup’s/kittens.
Litter assessments.
Behaviour assessments.
Preparation of an existing dog/s for the arrival of a new human baby.

On sale – training equipment, treats, toys, chews, booklets on training/behaviour and more….

NEW – “Gentle Paws” Dog Grooming Parlour!
A new concept in dog grooming!
Providing a safe, gentle experience for your pet.


To book an appointment to have your dog groomed please contact Emily at 082-923-9317
“Gentle Paws” -Your dog in safe hands!



For Gentle Solutions! Contact Louise.

Louise Thompson - Accredited Animal Behaviour Consultant and Professional Animal Trainer:
Accredited with the ABC of SA (©®™)


(011) 969-4467 082-890-0905 louthomp@mweb.co.za

Training grounds – Plot 72, Fifth Road, Cloverdene, Benoni

Consulting rooms – Plot 72, Fourth Road, Cloverdene, Benoni (consultations by appointment only)





EARLY PUPPY EDUCATION:

Pups may be admitted from about 7 weeks of age. Proof of inoculation is compulsory! Puppy school is a time and place where puppies and owners are educated. The aim is to produce a well adjusted, socially acceptable adult companion animal. All exercises are taught as fun games and learning methods are reward based, using the concept of positive reinforcement!


What we cover in class:-
Ø The principles of positive reinforcement learning
Ø Natural bite inhibition & passive, non-confrontational human leadership skills
Ø Leash skills – how to get your pup to walk on a loose leash
Ø Confidence building exercises – to produce a well adjusted pup
Ø Inter-canine social skills
Ø Teaching your pup to reliably “come” when he is called
Ø Handling and examination skills
Ø Basic canine communication and behaviour
Ø Puppy stages of behavioural development
Ø Basic “play” obedience exercises (sit, down, stand, recall, fetch, leave, wait etc)
Ø Teaching your pup to concentrate and focus
Ø Teaching the pup not to run away with your valuable possessions
Ø Basic puppy behaviour problem solving
Ø Basic puppy and dog care
Ø An accompanying in depth homework book is provided for all new students


Classes are held each Saturday morning at 8:00. Handlers are expected to be prompt and be at the grounds 10 minutes before class. They are also expected to clean up after their pups, to “scoop the poop”. Do not feed your pup prior to class as food is used as a motivator/training tool. Pups with a full tummy tend to sleep through the entire class – not conducive to learning!


WHAT TO BRING TO CLASS: (Please wear old clothes!)
Ø A hungry pup restrained on a light, flat collar (or harness) and soft leash
Ø Soft yummy dog treats
Ø A shallow water dish
Ø Dog brush and vitamin tablets – for pill taking & grooming practice
Ø Toys for playtime
Ø A large sense of humour, and a willingness to learn new things

Held under the direct supervision of our accredited animal behaviourist Louise Thompson, and our experienced, understanding instructors. All exercises are performed individually and gentle methods are found to suit each individual puppy and handler.



We “LOVE” Puppies!







DOMESTIC OBEDIENCE / SHOW OBEDIENCE
DOG SPORTS / SOCIAL CLASSES & MUCH MORE

Should you be experiencing any problems with your pet a behaviour evaluation may be require. This might need to be undertaken prior to integration into a training class.

Saturday classes are listed below:-

Ø Early puppy education class: Held at 8:00 am. This class includes “puppy one and puppy two” levels of early learning and education for pups and owners.
Ø Puppy three level – Held at 10:00 am.
Ø Specialised clicker class – Held at 10:00 am. This group is a specialised training methodology class, using the clicker as a positive reinforcement “marker” to mark wanted or desired behaviours.
Ø Introduction to dog training – Held at 1:30 pm. This group is for dogs and owners who have not had the advantage of attending the early puppy education group. For dogs and owners who have not trained before.
Ø The following five levels are held at 3:00 pm on Saturday afternoons
Social Class – for non-competitive handlers – fun and games with your dog.
Elementary Beginners / Beginners Class.
Novice Class/A Test / C Test Class.
Dog Sports Class – Fun mental exercise games and various dogs sports (ball pool, target retrieve, fly-ball, cross country, tricks and games). For dogs who are reliable off leash and have a reasonable level of obedience and social skills (all exercises are off leash)

We do not run our school like a military boot camp! All exercises, at all levels, are taught as fun games. Specially developed exercises make learning fun, for both owner and dog. All learning is achieved using positive reinforcement methods only. No chains, no yelling, no punishment, and no jerking of leashes!

THURSDAY AGILITY AND DOG JUMPING CLASS: Our agility class is conducted on Thursday evenings commencing at 18:30 pm. As all work is off leash, a basic level of obedience is required.

PRIVATE TUITION: Private tuition and home training is available on request (booking is essential). It is always preferable to bring your dog to class to promote canine socialisation/learning with distractions.

DOG PARK: All Paws Abilities students have access to the training grounds every Tuesday. This provides owners with a unique opportunity to be able to give their dogs some off leash playtime in a safe, fully fenced large area.

WE PROVIDE: Safe rural environment; Club house & shade areas; Toilet facilities; Exercise areas.
Regular fun events and social’s; A regular informative newsletter; Dog shows/fun days/charity events; We have on sale:- Gentle, non-confrontational, passive, dog training equipment; Toys; Treats; Chews; Behaviour and training books and booklets; Cold drinks and various refreshments;

Our team of specialised dog training instructors are a dedicated group of highly experienced individuals, and have experience in the following areas: Many years practical experience in their fields. Competitive achievements within the Kennel Union / Federation organisations, in one or more disciplines: Regular attendance of training seminars/workshops: Dog “Breed” knowledge: A sound scientific knowledge of basic canine behaviour. Knowledge of the critical stages of early canine development: Knowledge of many different, gentle, non-confrontational, positive reinforcement, training methods; People skills, the desire to learn, an open mind, and a sense of humour!

We “LOVE” all Dogs……….
We even “LIKE”, some of their Owners!







“Gentle Paws”
Your Dog – in Safe Hands

“Gentle Paws” - A New Concept in Dog Grooming!
Your dog’s comfort and safety ensured!
# The owner of Gentle Paws performs all grooming/washing/bathing/clipping.
# No assistants! No helpers! No stress! Unhurried, gentle, dog grooming.
# Difficult and problem dogs welcome.
# No overbooking – only a limited amount of dogs will be booked per day.
# Open-plan parlour – owners are welcome (and encouraged) to sit and enjoy a
cup of coffee and watch/wait/read a book while their dog is being groomed.
Gentle Paws has nothing to hide!
# Competitive prices – no hidden costs. Prices for dogs with badly mattered or
un-kept coats available on enquiry – up front!
# All dogs washed with warm water – All year round!
# Day-run/exercise area for large breeds to let off steam before grooming.
# Early puppy accustomisation programme. Get your puppy used to grooming
from an early age – this prevents grooming and handling problems later on in
life!
# Collection and delivery service available on request.
# Safe, calm, fully-fenced rural environment.
# On Sale: Gentle dog-training equipment, dog toys, treats, and yummy chews.

To book an appointment contact:
Emma Thompson @ (082-923-9317)
Electronic address. louthomp@mweb.co.za

“Gentle Paws” is run under the guidance of an accredited animal behaviour consultant
and abides by the same values and principles as
Paws Abilities Behaviour and Learning Centre.

If you have a dog with GROOMING ISSUES – WE CAN HELP!
Gentle, non-confrontational, gradual accustomisation programmes
(Positive reinforcement methods only) undertaken for dogs with grooming issues.