Paws News August 2008

Paws Abilities
Behaviour & Learning Centre
Newsletter Number – 21 - AUGUST 2008

A warm welcome to all Paws Abilities students, family, friends and clients. Well the World of Dogs and Cats was a great success and there certainly were some new and exiting stalls and displays.

I did not manage to see enough of the wonderful displays or competitions, as I was on duty at the Animal Behaviour Consultants of SA (©®™) stand, but I have it on good authority that the standard was very high and there were some wonderful things to see. I could however, hear the roar and delight of the crowd – which was a great encouragement.

There were also some fantastic retail stands with every gizmo and gadget known to mankind/dogdom


Man’s Best Friend Returns Home
This interesting snippet was taken from the New York Daily – Sunday, September 2nd 1945. (supplied by Jan at Paws Abilities)

People may be surprised to hear that one of America’s most decorated veterans is in fact German.
A German Shepherd that is named, Chips. This brave pooch initially joined the war in 1943 when he was donated by the Wren family to serve as one of our nation’s canine units.

Chips was initially a sentry dog and with his handler, Pvt. John P. Rowell, he served as a guard for the Roosevelt-Churchill conference in 1943. Little did those great men know that a hero was sniffing just outside their meeting room. Chips was an exceptional sentry but it seemed that his heart was set on the excitement of the American Infantry.
He was assigned to the 3rd Infantry Division in North Africa and his actions would make him the pride and joy of the unit.

Participating in the landings of Sicily, Chips and his handler became pinned down by an Italian machinegun team.
Pvt. Rowell tried to control the dog and keep his head down but Chips, sensing his handler’s danger, broke free and made a heroic dash right towards the relentless fire. He leaped into the pillbox and attacked the Italian gunnery crew.
Wounded, he continued to fight until the four Italian soldiers were forced to abandon the pillbox and surrender to the Allied forces.

Despite his scalp wound and extensive powder burns, he stayed in the fight and helped secure the surrender of a further 10 Italian POWs. For his actions he was rightly awarded the Purple Heart and Silver Star.
Later these were revoked when the military realized that Chips was not a GI’s nickname but that the recipient had in fact been a dog. Undeterred, his unit unofficially awarded him a Theatre Ribbon with an Arrowhead for an assault landing, and Battlestars for each of his eight campaigns.

Chips is an example of how this war didn’t leave a single one of us unaffected and how it took bravery of behalf of all to bring it to victory. Chips has been given an honourable discharge and will be returning home in December. (That is December 1945)!


Why I Hate the Long Down by Karen Prior
Dear Clicker Friends, When I first took a dog to obedience class, back in the Pleistocene, we were given six weeks to teach our dog to obey five basic commands: sit, down, stay, heel, and come. The behaviours were a given: these are the things any well-trained, obedient dog should be able to do. The important thing was not just doing the behaviour, but Obeying the Command No Matter What.
Perhaps the most important of all the behaviours, and the most difficult, was the long down. Could your dog lie down and stay down while you walked away? Could he stay there until you came back and told him he could get up? What if his mortal enemy was next to him, or the instructor walked behind him, or some other dog got up and came over to him? Never mind! He'd better not budge! If he moved, we screamed, "No! Down!" and rushed back and jerked him into position again.
We were encouraged to "proof" our dogs by making them do long sits and downs in distracting areas. People sometimes took this to extremes. Once at a dog show I saw a woman "down" her dachshund two feet from the entrance to a building, with crowds of people going in and out. The owner, her back to the dog, was chatting with friends down the path a few yards, when a man walked past the dog, not seeing him at all, and almost stepped on his paw. The little dog, still in the down position, shrank back a few inches. "Your dog moved," someone said. "NO! Down!" she screamed, running back to him and jerking him forward to the pavement's edge again.
Other parts of the old training are fading, but somehow the custom of teaching sit-stay and down-stay for longer and longer durations and in the face of bigger and bigger distractions, remains. And I hate it.
I have no objection to teaching dogs to wait patiently when there's nothing else going on; the "settle" exercise. One common and sensible way to do this is to provide the dog with a physical cue, a blanket or mat, that, when spread, means "Relax here; we're going to do nothing for a while." A "while" can be anything from a few minutes to the length of a ClickerExpo lecture; dogs accept the concept easily. Nobody is making a test out of it; nobody is staying "and you have to stay in the same position without moving, and you have to stay motionless No Matter What." The settle exercise is a way of calming the dog down; it is NOT a tool for proofing against distractibility.
Why not teach the skill of resistance to distractions with a moving exercise, such as walking beside you, or coming when called? For one thing, it's much easier for a dog to learn what he got clicked for when he's moving; it's as if his muscles know what was happening at the time. If he's sitting or lying down motionless, and hears a click, how can he tell what it's for? The number of seconds or minutes he's been there? How can he judge that? The fact that near him someone was flapping a towel and he did nothing? Doing nothing is a difficult behaviour to distinguish.
Secondly, I think the long down as it is generally practiced is an artificially difficult exercise in itself, because the dog is so vulnerable. The dog has been asked to lie down in an exposed situation, maybe outdoors. The owner is further and further away. If it's in a training class there are other strange dogs around. The dog has no permission to flee or defend itself if things do go wrong; and no one knows better than the dog that things could go wrong.
Look at the facial expressions of dogs learning the down-stay in classes, and especially being put in down-stays in hallways and parking lots and other public spaces. They are not just a little stressed; they're really worried. And they should be! Now on top of that we add deliberate disturbances, such as oblivious strange men with big feet, to teach them to resist "distractions?"
In the video/DVD BowWow Take II Virginia Broitman and Sheri Lippman show some excellent examples of teaching distraction resistance with a moving dog. Put out a bowl, upside down, with food under it. Then ask your dog to walk at your side past the bowl without looking at it. Can he do it? Click! Treat! How about a little closer? Could you heel him between two bowls and retain his attention? How about putting him in a sit and calling him to you through a maze of bowls? What if it were just one bowl but it was right side up and you could see the food? Start with a target stick and target him past the temptation, if necessary. The dog is getting clicked and treated for continuing to walk forward instead of turning toward the distraction. That, he can understand.
Distractions can always be increased. What if one of the temptations was a cat in a carrier? Or a rolling ball, first in the distance, then right across the dog's path? I think experiencing earning clicks and treats in the face of such temptations gives both the dog and the owner a clear sense of what it means to control oneself. It also seems to me that this kind of training or proofing for ignoring temptations and distractions might carry over more easily to the real world, for example when a squirrel runs by, if it were done in a moving exercise than in a still exercise.
Then, when the dog is already an ace at ignoring distractions, you could ask him to lie on his mat even at the vet's office; or to do a sit-stay while tied to a parking meter, while you mail a letter. Now, downing amidst distractions should not be quite so terrifying. And if the dog is a little anxious, here's a comforting touch I've seen used in Europe: fold up his leash and ask him to lie down with his paws on the leash. Now he's not just in limbo, doing nothing, for an unknown length of time, he's Doing a Behaviour he can get clicked for: touching a target until he hears a click. Besides, it's got to help his peace of mind. He KNOWS you won't forget to come back for the leash!

A question of BARKING By Glynne Anderson
I have known people to sell up and move elsewhere because they just can't take their neighbours one more minute.

And if that's not drastic enough, I also know of several cases where poison has been used to settle the score, not to mention a well-placed bullet resulting in a life wasted in jail. And the reason for such animosity?
You guessed, the family pets! Nothing is more annoying than a pet owner in denial. Incessant barking, fouling, cruelty or digging up next door's rare Aspidistras are but a few things that can sour a relationship. And cats too can be the cause of making deadly enemies, especially if they are killing the neighbour's beloved wild birds, or beating up their kitty cat and eating its food. All these little annoyances have a habit of erupting into World War 3. So if you are a tormented neighbour, no matter on which side of the fence you reside, please, before resorting to heavy artillery, negotiate a fair deal. If you don't settle amicably, you are sure to finish up either in hospital or in another town as well as penniless and petless. Remember, if your animal is causing a reason for complaint, it is your responsibility to solve the problem and keep your neighbours happy.

Question. We live in an up-market area but my neighbour, diagonally across from me, has five German Shepherd dogs which bark incessantly and never shut up. Recently I have run out of patience, so I've rigged up a siren on a tree in my property, as close as I can get to their bedroom window. Now, every time their dogs bark, I set off my siren so they can get a taste of their own medicine.
I just wish he would get rid of the dogs because my sleep is being sorely interrupted and I'm perpetually in a bad mood. Can you suggest something more? Answer. Isn't that interesting! My neighbour opposite me has five German Shepherds who guard our neighbourhood and alert all our dogs to potential danger. I sleep well at night knowing the security crew are on duty protecting our interests.
However, some twit keeps activating a siren in protest of our awesome canine crime busters which probably stems from ignorance and immaturity. Having studied dog communication for many years, I can honestly say I have never heard the neighbourhood watch across the road bark incessantly, nor have I ever heard them bark for no apparent reason either, hence our crime-free area.
Coincidently, I noticed a "For Sale" board recently on the same property belonging to the siren king. So if that's your sign, I'd like to take this opportunity of wishing you happy landings, hopefully on another planet where sirens rule.
Question. My wife and I are both doctors and because we are hardly ever home we purchased a male Boerboel for protection.
Our religion does not permit us to have the dog indoors, and because he gets out of our property if we let him loose, we have enclosed a narrow, concreted space between the house and a high boundary wall where he now lives. The only problem is our neighbour, who can see our dog from her bedroom window, has been telling us it’s cruel to keep a big dog under these conditions and has even asked to purchase the dog from us.
We don't want to sell him because he is our protection, and apart from that, it's none of her business what we do. He gets fed every day and our helper keeps his place very clean.
Three days ago he went missing. He couldn't have gotten free unless someone stole him and I suspect it was my neighbour as there has been bad blood between us since the Boerboel was a pup.
When I asked her, she denied all knowledge of the dog's whereabouts, but we believe she's lying. I reported the matter to the police and the SPCA, but they both say there is nothing they can do. We have now approached an attorney and will not rest until we locate this dog. Is there anything you may be able to suggest to help get him back? Answer. No, nothing. Firstly your dog was not much good to you penned up in a small area. That is cruel and not a good life for a large animal that has a right to company, respect and stimulation.
I hope your attorney sends you a very large bill which may just wake you up to the fact that dogs are not remote-controlled machines, but rather highly intelligent, emotional creatures with dreams, hopes and expectations just like us.
And as for your neighbour, theft is not to be condoned, so do not get another dog and treat it in the same manner as she will still be watching you from her bedroom window.
Till next time, love 'em, spoil 'em and have lots of fun.
Glynne Anderson is a pet behaviour consultant and professional dog handler.



BARKING DOGS:
(With input from accredited animal behaviour consultants ABC of SA)

Noise pollution is one of the most common behaviour problems experienced with certain breeds of dogs today, especially with owners and pets living in cluster homes or complexes.

Dog noise pollution is a major factor of modern living and can lead to costly legal bills and major disagreements with frustrated neighbours who have endured sleepless nights and have a desperate need for some peace and quiet!

There is nothing more frustrating that trying to have a quiet Sunday nap or being wakened up in the middle of the night, by yapping mutts! Caring pet owners have been known to have to relocate in order to protect their dogs and themselves from prosecution and to achieve harmonious living with neighbours!

In many municipalities there are laws governing the amount of “acceptable” noise that is produced by dogs. Several legal warnings are usually given and if not treated or if the barking does not improve, owners may be required by law to get rid of their beloved pet! In some complexes there are clauses in the lease in this regard and governing bodies have legal recourse to enforce dog owner’s compliance.

The most common breeds that exhibit this unwanted behaviour are toy or miniature breeds like the German Dachshund, Miniature Schnauzer, the Yorkshire Terrier, Jack Russell Terrier, SA Maltese “Poodle” (which is in fact part terrier) Miniature Pincher, Toy Pomeranians etc. In fact, most terriers are prone to yapping if there behaviour is not moulded or shaped/redirected from an early age


Why is the dog barking?
Is the dog is barking in the garden – either at the moon or as a long or short range communication with neighbourhood dogs or is he barking to demand attention (to be let inside or to get his own way), or because it is excitement when playing or due to the dog suffering from stress and anxiety?

The above needs to be considered as they have a direct bearing on the cause of the barking. If you are in doubt contact an accredited animal behaviour consultant who will be able to advise and assist you.

You also need to take into account the frustration level of the dog. Does he receive enough of your time? Does he have enough exercise off the property (walks runs)? Does he receive enough mental stimulation?

Does he have anything to do when you are absent from the home or asleep at night (chews, bones, cow hooves etc)? All of the above can also have a bearing on the dogs noise pollution levels!

Barking is a normal behaviour and is a natural way for dogs to communicate (especially over distance!) It is normal for a dog to bark when someone passes your house, or when the postman comes!

When this “normal “barking becomes excessive that is when it presents a problem, as the resulting noise pollution can be a nuisance to family and neighbours alike.

Barking can also be an expression of frustration and confinement stress (un-socialised yard dogs kept in permanent solitary confinement) It can be a way for your dog to let you know that he is stressed, unhappy, anxious, bored, or just plain fed up! It is also a way for them to inform you of any danger

If the dog is barking in the garden – during the day or at night YOU MUST GO AND CHECK TO SEE IF YOU CAN FIND THE CAUSE OF THE BARKING. THIS MUST APPLY EACH AND EVERY TIME!

After all, the dog could be warning you of a prowler or burglar, Or a young child having fallen in the swimming pool (there have been many cases of the above examples!) Never leave a barking dog just to bark without checking up on him. He could just save you, or a member of your family’s life!

If the dog is barking outside a door as a demand to be let in, he must only be let in the second he is quiet. Reward the positive and ignore/distract the negative.

Often dogs bark as an expression of excitement or hyperactivity – if this is the case the game should stop immediately. It can continue after a couple of minutes or when the dog is quiet, but then the second it gets too excited and the barking commences it must again stop. This will have to be constantly repeated to have a lasting effect.


The most common causes of excessive barking are:-
Confinement:
Yard dogs kept in solitary confinement with little or no interaction with their owners.
Lack of mental and physical stimulation.
Boredom and mental inactivity
Inappropriate stimulation: Getting a calm dog “wound up” for fun and family entertainment.
Learnt behaviour – unintentionally encouraged when the dog was a pup - It was cute for a while but soon becomes a pain in the ……
Neglect and cruel treatment.
Stress and anxiety
Lack of confidence and fear related behaviours
Over-indulgence. The dog that barks to get his own way - including. Attention seeking behaviours and the spoilt dog brat – syndrome!

Often the easiest way to teach a dog not to perform an inappropriate behaviour is to teach him to perform the behaviour on command. Barking is a good example of this premise.

10 TIPS TO HELP KEEP THE PEACE:

1. Exercise him often. A couple of good walks or play sessions a day can help your dog be calm, Instead of barking all day, he may sleep all day." A tired dog is a good dog!
2. Let him chew it over. Your dog will have a hard time barking if he's busy chewing on bones or doggie toys. Chewing is a real stress-reducer and occupier of time If you're going to be gone, give your dog his very favourite chew treat just before you leave.
3. Mask outside or competing noises. If your dog is supersensitive to noises in the environment, try blocking some of that noise so he's not as inspired to bark. White noise machines can do the trick. So can playing your stereo at a normal level.
4. Catch up on your cleaning. Turning on the vacuum cleaner can also block unwanted noises - the approaching steps of the postman, for example - and prevent your pet from going into a barking frenzy.
5. Insist on quiet time. Sometimes a dog will keep barking even after you acknowledge his watchdog woofs. "Say 'Quiet!' sharply, but softly, if he blinks and stops barking, praise him warmly.
6. It does not hurt to occasionally give your pet a treat after the noise stops. What you are doing is taking his mind off the barking and making him realise that it is so good when he stops,
7. Leave the party. Some dogs, like people, hate talking without an audience. So if all your praise and commands fail to keep him quiet, leave. Chances are your dog wants you to hang around, so turning your back and leaving the room can make him see he's doing something wrong.
8. To reinforce the lesson, ring a bell (or sound a tuning fork) before leaving .Let it ring for a couple of seconds, and when you think the dog hears it, leave, Over time, your dog will learn to associate the ringing with your leaving, and he will be more likely to keep his thoughts to himself. It also helps to praise your pooch once he stops barking.
9. Dampen his enthusiasm. To remind your dog that you would appreciate some quiet time, give him a short blast with a squirt bottle, BUT MAKE SURE THE DOG DOES NOT SEE YOU – BE SNEAKY, as you don’t want the dog to associate the squirt with you, or affect your relationship with him in any negative way. If they don't like water, they will tend to stop. It is best to aim for the body and not the face.
10. Bring him inside. If your dog sleeps outside and likes to exercise his vocal cords at night, you may want to bring him indoors. "He will have less to bark at.

If you think your dog is suffering from any form of behaviour problem associated with your absence from the home – such as separation anxiety. It might be necessary to book a behavioural assessment with an accredited animal behaviour consultant.

GADGETS, COLLARS AND QUICK FIXES!
There are also various gadgets and gizmos available to treat inappropriate barking issues.
I must emphasise that THERE ARE NO “QUICK FIX SOLUTIONS” TO THIS PROBLEM. It takes time, patience and effort to modify this behaviour!

· Electric shock collar where the dog is shocked on the throat.
The electric shock is trigger by the dogs bark:
I believe that this is a cruel and inappropriate device that can produce untold negative and even dangerous behaviours in dogs. For example if a dog happens to bark and receive a “jolt” at the precise second a young blond little girl walked past him, he could associate that pain and trauma with the little girl.
This could develop into a permanent dislike of blond girl children – which could have disastrous catastrophic results. PAIN OFTEN IS A TRIGGER FOR AGGRESSION and in some individuals could be enough to trigger an attack!

NOTE:
Under the law in SA it is considered a criminal offence “To attach any device or contraption to an animal that could cause pain or discomfort” The use of these cruel devices could leave you open for prosecution under the animal protection act!

· Ultrasonic devices, which produce and/or emit high-pitched sounds, which are unpleasant to dogs: These have been found to be effective for a short period of time only as most dogs become accustomed or desensitized to the unpleasant sound within a few weeks!

· Citronella collar: These appear to be the most passive and kind, and most successful of all the gadgets, with a good success rate when coupled with the behaviour changes outlined above. The device comprises of a collar with a small battery operated spray container of harmless citronella oil. Each time the dog barks it triggers an electronic impulse and the dog receives a tiny mist spray of this substance. Dogs find it unpleasant as it is offensive to their olfactory senses (there sense of smell).

It must be noted that the citronella oil collar must be used under strict supervision at all times. The dog should still be permitted to bark at “appropriate” times. It must also be noted that all the “other” needs of the dog must be met, for this tool to be effective.


HOW TO FIND A GOOD DOG TRAINING SCHOOL
This usually begins at about the age of five and a half, to six months of age, after an initial puppy school learning and socialising programme and in the beginning should be a continuation of early learning in puppy school. At this age, all learning should still be fun and mentally challenging, never putting the puppy under too much pressure.

Some schools are run by accredited animal behaviour consultants. Some ABC’s run “Specialist” Schools – concentrating on one or more disciplines. Many schools offer domestic and show obedience classes, and other various disciplines of dog sport and fun! Participation in most dog sports requires a certain amount of basic obedience training.

KINDS OF DOG SPORTS: Domestic obedience – All dogs should learn the basics of good manners and basic obedience such as walking to heel on a leash, sit, down, stand for examination, stay, and retrieve. This is not only for discipline, and control, but also to give the dog some mental and physical stimulation.

Dog training used to be really boring! Years ago training used to involve being marched up and down a field for an hour of military style heelwork! Not any more! Nowadays classes are fun and exciting for both dog and owner.

Newer sports are available at many schools, which can be competitive or just for fun and fitness, (of dog and owner!) These dog sports include:- Dog carting, flyball races, and dog jumping and agility even “heelwork to music” – dancing dogs! Some of the above are incorporated into working trials, and other specialist competitions or sports.

All of these give your dog something valuable to do and to work his brain and keep him mentally and physically active and occupied. A dog that works is a happy contented dog.

HINTS FOR FINDING A GOOD DOG TRAINING SCHOOL:
Many dog training schools cater for dogs from puppyhood through to adult dog training.
If you are unsure of the quality of the dog training you might be receiving, contact the ABC of SA Secretary who will refer you to a reputable school in your area:

WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN A GOOD DOG SCHOOL:
Winning prizes is not the most important thing to look for. Don’t be fooled by the trophies on the wall! Some trainers need their students to win at all costs, and this sometimes can be at the expense of the dog’s well being!

Before enrolling in a class, visit the school first WITHOUT YOUR DOG, (as an observer), and note the following;-

WHEN CHECKING OUT A DOG TRAINING SCHOOL:
· Do the dogs look happy and relaxed? Are the people friendly and sociable?
· Is everyone shouting at his or her dogs – screaming, “Leave” and “Foui”? Dogs are not deaf - their hearing is considerably better than ours – why do people shout? All shouting does, is to teach the dog to ignore the owner?
· Is there a lot of dog on dog aggression?
· Can the school refer you to people who have completed their training at the school for references
· Does the instructor enquire if there are any problems at home with the dog, and either offers appropriate advice and/or refers the student to a professional ABC.
· What kind of equipment are the handlers using?
· Would you consider the training equipment cruel? Spike collars and even Check/choke chains if used incorrectly can cause severe damage to muscle and tendons and even the spine of a dog.

Some schools even use electric shock collars! In my opinion - this kind of torture equipment should have gone out with the Spanish Inquisition!

Yanking dogs off their feet, and jerking them off their feet or even hanging them up in tree’s (by the choke chain & leash) until they loose consciousness (yes people actually do this, and condone it, telling you it is training!) In my book, this is not learning, it is abuse!

The sadist’s, who tell you this is the way to train dogs, should find another occupation.

WHAT YOU SHOULD BE LOOKING FOR:
· A friendly fun environment for both the dog and handler
· Humane, gentle training methods, either using food/toy gentling motivation.
· Positive reinforcement methods are the only way to train a confident, sound, stable, dog.
· Minimum or no aggression between the dogs. The trainer should have enough experience, Never to permit aggression to develop in class.
· Difficult dogs should have private sessions and behaviour modification (with a qualified behavioural consultant) before they are permitted to work in a class.
· No instructor or handler should ever loose his temper with either a dog or handler, but should always show empathy and understanding of both dog and handler problems.


Be Aware of Ticks and Fleas on Your Dog or Puppy
Taken from the Tellington Touch Newsletter (last summer I think!) by Nicki Elliott. (©)

Summer is here, and not having had a particularly cold winter, the tick and flea population will not have been badly affected. Now with all the rain, the grass is growing quickly and we are seeing flea infestations and cases of tick bite fever.

Have you got a new puppy and the pup can’t stop scratching? Are fleas driving your puppy and you crazy? Puppies under twelve weeks of age should be combed with a proper flea comb, designed to remove fleas and eggs from the skin and fur. Comb every inch of the puppy's body. Keep two bowls of water beside you, one with mild dish detergent and one with plain water. Once you comb a flea out, dip the comb in the soapy water to get the flea off, and rinse the comb in the clean water bowl. This procedure should be repeated daily. You can also use the combing method on older pups if you wish, but for pups over twelve weeks, there are other treatments available.

If you want to go Natural, garlic has long been heralded for repelling bloodsuckers. By keeping garlic in your puppy’s diet, he'll stay free of the bloodsuckers that are out to make a meal out of him. A word of caution though, although garlic, in small amounts, is beneficial to a dog, too much has a toxic effect. If you're concerned about the amount your puppy may be receiving, please do not hesitate to contact a homeopathic veterinarian for the correct amount for your pup's weight. Brewer's yeast is another food additive that naturally repels fleas. It should be noted, however, that neither of these natural additives will get rid of already-established fleas, but they do help prevent them from infesting.

For those holistic followers the following recipes can be wonderful remedies. Since they are all natural, they will only help repel fleas, ticks and flies etc. and must be applied more frequently as well.

Herbal Repellent Mix: Dried peppermint, eucalyptus, bay leaf herbs, marjoram, eucalyptus, rosemary, sage, clove buds. Crush your botanicals well and fill a muslin bag or use it in the cedar chip mixture of your puppy’s bed. The muslin bags can be placed near your puppy’s bedding area.

Tick Spritzer Blend:
2 drops of Lavender, Basil, Lemon, Sweet Myrrh, Eucalyptus
1 tea spoon apple cider vinegar
1 tea spoon vodka
1 cup of dried marjoram, eucalyptus, rosemary
2 cups of water

Flea Spritzer Blend:
2 drops of cedarwood, lemongrass, rose geranium
1 tea spoon apple cider vinegar
1 tea spoon vodka
1 cup of dried peppermint, eucalyptus, bay leaf herbs
1- 2 cups of water
Add the essential oils and vodka in a bottle, tighten the lid and shake well. Once the mixture blended (should turn white), add apple cider vinegar. If you have some herbs mentioned above you can make a herbal tea to use in your spritzer. Boil 2-4 cups of water and remove from heat. Add your dried herbs in the water and let is simmer for 30 minutes. Once cool, drain and use instead of plain water in your spritzer. If you are using a herbal tea, this mixture must be kept in the refrigerator as the herbal teas have the tendency to go bad faster.

Once you have your spritzer you can use this by gently spraying it in to your dogs coat, legs, tummy and back. Rub it in well and apply it as necessary. Do not use any of the essential oils on your dogs face or around nose, ears and eyes. Respect the sensitive nose he/she has and go easy when using aromatic substances such as essential oils.

Check your dog often for fleas and ticks by play petting and inspecting. Never squeeze the tick’s body. Try to grab it (with your tweezers) where its mouth-parts enter the skin and pull gently without letting go. It will eventually release its hold by withdrawing its barbed mouth-part from the skin. Keep in mind that not all ticks carry a disease causing organism, and just because your pup had a tick bite does not mean he will get Tick Bite Fever.

Even if a tick is a carrier, its bite may not always cause the development of disease, but proper caution and care always is crucial in prevention. If your puppy is off his food, listless and pale or you see any abnormal rashes on his body, please take him to your Veterinarian immediately. It is better to have a simple blood test than to loose your pup to Tick Bite Fever.

Chemical Products:
There are a large number of tick and flea-killers that can be used "on the dog", some are preventative and work well to kill the bugs when infested, and some are for immediate extermination only. I strongly suggest that you check with your Veterinarian which product would be most suitable for your particular animal before using any of these products.

Please Note that nearly all the product you use for your dogs will NOT be suitable for your cats!

Ticks & Fleas are everywhere and even if you don’t take your puppies out, they can still pick up either of them anywhere. If your puppy is allergic to fleas you will really need to stay on top of your tick and flea protocol. Just one flea will cause your pup to itch like mad and his skin to flare up.

Your dog, or yourself for that matter, will never be flea free until you've rid your home of eggs and larvae that are in your carpets, your furniture and your dog's bedding. The cheapest, and easiest trick I've ever heard of is using good old Borax. Sprinkle your carpets, under your furniture cushions, and on top of anything upholstered, let sit for a couple of hours, and vacuum it up. Immediately empty your vacuum, or place your used vacuum bag into a garbage bag and dispose of it immediately. The Borax dries up the adults and larvae on contact, and unhatched eggs will get sucked up along with the carcasses. Wash all sheets, bedding and removable covers in hot water with as much bleach as you can get away with (without ruining the items).


GATE BOLTING AND ESCAPING:
Once your pup gets a little older, at some stage he is going to experiment and try to see how far he can go and what he can get away with, and start to try and explore beyond the boundaries of the garden gate. This also happens with older dogs that have not been taught gate rules.

One of the most dangerous things in the suburbs and the country is to see a dog on the road, where he is not only a danger to himself but also a danger to others: There is nothing more frustrating that each and every time you open the gate, to bring the car into the driveway your dog does his escape trick – bolting down the road at two hundred miles an hour causing a danger, not only to himself but also to traffic.

If you have done your homework and taught the puppy to always “come” when he is called this should not be a problem – but if the pup has ever been punished after being called this does sometimes develop. Also if the pup finds the outside of the yard more exciting and rewarding than inside then this would also increase the likelihood of him learning to bolt!

WHY DO DOGS BOLT?
Often dogs that bolt out of gates etc, are frustrated and bored and are usually dogs who are permanently confined to the yard. Lack of mental and physical stimulation is the root of all evil for household dogs. Dogs need things to do!

It must also be remembered that each individual breed of dog was specifically developed for a particular purpose and this has to be kept in mind when choosing and owning a dog to make sure that it is suitable for your lifestyle and environment.

Dogs that are kept confined in a walled in garden without being taken off the property regularly and dogs who have not received any “doggie” education such as training etc. are the most likely candidates for gate bolting:
In other words, for the dog - it is far more rewarding and exciting to duck out of the gate for an adventure, that it is to stay in the yard, which to the dog is a familiar boring environment:

TIPS TO PREVENT YOUR DOG FROM ESCAPING
· Make sure that the dog is exercised regularly off the property –take the car do not go for walks by directly leaving the property from the gate.
· Take the dog to a reputable training school (using only positive reinforcement methods of training)
· All dogs need to learn the basics of “come” “sit” “down” “stay” and walking on a leash.
· Give the dog lots of interesting doggie things to chew to keep him occupied, such as cow hooves and appropriate bones, (never cut or cooked) an ox femur is ideal.
· Make sure that you NEVER punish the dog for escaping or when he returns, or the dog will have learned a valuable lesson – Unfortunately it is the wrong lesson!
· He will have learned that the best thing to do when he escapes is to stay as far away as possible from you, as (in his mind) you don’t like it when he comes back.
· When you get the dog back, or if he comes when called PRAISE and reward the dog. Coming home should be a rewarding experience for the dog.
· Neuter male dogs at an early age – this drastically reduces sexual reasons for escaping.
· Manage the problem! Ensure that when you get a pup or dog that the garden is safely fenced or walled to prevent any future escaping.

VISITORS ARRIVING AND LEAVING:
A good idea when any visitors are arriving or leaving is to have the dog on leash, for control and discipline, and to put him in a “sit stay”. Make sure that you are always in the same place in the garden, as eventually through repetition, we want the dog to automatically go into the “sit stay” at that place, on his own whenever there is a car around.

This is achieved through very gradual repetition, never putting the dog in a position where he can fail, and keeping him on leash until he is reliable and then gradually over a period of time, increasing the time and distance that the dog is in that position.

This is where the dog training school comes in as they will be able to help you learn and teach your dog these basic commands.

THE GATE ENCLOSURE – SAFETY WITH EASE!
A really simple method to teach your dog safety when the garden gates open for visitors or when you are leaving home is to make a special enclosure – right next to the gate.

Swimming pool fencing or some simple wire mesh can be used and a small square enclosure can be made (one metre square is fine or at least big enough for the dog to turn around in), and it should be as near the gate as possible.

It should have one section or door/gate that is able to be opened and fastened securely with ease.

All you have to do is, using a food treat or lure, lead the dog into the enclosure with a command each and every time you go through or near the gate.

In the beginning, you will have to repeat this command continually to get the dog to associate the action with the food reward. Set up practise sessions, of about 5 repetitions per session and you will need several sessions per day. In the beginning, you will not even have to use the car.

Again, I emphasise that you will have to have several sessions per day before the dog gets the message. Use the same command each time – make sure that the command that you use does not sound like any of his other commands, and always use the same tone of voice, the same word and each time the same identical accompanying body language.

You want the dog to associate the command with moving into the enclosure. This should be rewarding for the dog – each time he goes inside the area, he gets a treat.

As soon as he gets the idea, and is moving in and out of the enclosure, happily on command then the next step is to use the car coming and going to reinforce the pattern of behaviour including the car.

Every time a car is at the gate, he should be delighted to go into his area. Make a point initially of driving in and out as often as possible to reinforce the behaviour. Again I emphasise that this has to be constantly repeated to have a lasting effect!


Do not use the enclosure for punishment, only praise and reward. You will find that after a short period of time the dog will start to automatically enter the enclosure when he sees the car. You will have to repeat this on a regular basis to have any real effect and so that the dog does not forget the command and actions:


Why I REALLY Hate Electronic Shock - Invisible - Fences by Pam Dennison @ positivedogs.com
(Lou’s comment “Oh how American’s just love the “quick fix” – think about how it can all go sooooo wrong”!

I have decided to write this article so I don’t have to keep repeating myself. Once you have tried the electronic collar and created neurotic or problem behaviours, you cannot go back and erase them. You are now in for major retraining, so please consider carefully before purchasing these antiquated and inhumane devises.

Many of you may say, “But my dog only had to go through the fence line once and then always stayed in the yard. What’s the big deal?” There IS a big deal and one that you may not recognize at first as relating to the electric fence. How many times do you have to be stung by a wasp to be terrified of wasps? I doubt more than once, but then, how do you then feel about wasps? Are you terrified? Do you run around frantically, screaming in a panic, trying to get away from it? Does your heart rate go through the roof? Is this pleasant for you?

We’ll start out looking at this from a behavioural standpoint. Your dog goes through the fence line and a child, dog or car happens to be passing by. He gets zapped by a very painful electric shock. He may very well now associate the pain of the shock with the child, dog or car. There are two options of how he may behave around those things now: he may become terrified and depending on his personality, will take that terror and either become shy and fearful or aggressive. There is a third option – he may have made no bad associations. However, why take the risk?

Okay, you have been stung by a wasp and now become freaked out whenever you see one. I decide that your fear is a bad thing and want you to love wasps. How easy will it be to then change your mind about them in the future?
Your dog goes through the fence line and gets zapped by a very painful electric shock as he notices the signal flags marking the property border. He makes the association between the intense pain and the signal flags. From now on, he will freak out at the sight of any kind of flag. (Yes, this really has happened - often.)

You have an electric fence and you don’t see any outward sign that there is a problem. However, a cat wanders into your yard and while your dog “respects” the electric shock fence and stays in the yard, you come home to find a dead cat. (Displaced aggression from the electric shock fence.)

Your dog may start to become neurotic about weird things or become timid, fearful or aggressive. He may start to become aggressive toward the other dogs you have. He may now be fearful about leaving the property at all – even in “safe” areas.

He may also become fearful of new places – especially if you use one of the “dummy” collars and leave it on all of the time. Think about it: He has a real or dummy collar on and you take him to a new location – maybe even a training class. He is now freaked because he doesn’t know where the boundaries are and is terrified of being shocked. He moves around slowly and cautiously because he doesn’t know where the “safe” places are.

Associative learning is happening 24 hours per day, 7 days per week, whether we want it to or not. Add to those associations intense pain, and you have a recipe for disaster.

Okay, let’s now look at the logistical problems with electric shock fences. Notice how I don’t use the term “invisible fence?” It is too easy to forget what they actually do – shock your dog with an electric current - when one uses the generic terminology. I don’t want you to forget what this device does.

You have an electric fence. It may keep your dog within the boundaries, but does it keep out rotten kids that want to torment your dog, other dogs – good ones and “bad” ones, cats, skunks, squirrels, bears, coyotes, fox or deer? Of course not.

If your dog decides to chase these things and braves the electric current running through his neck, do you really think he’ll come back and risk more electric current? I think not!

Let’s say you leave your dog outside, unattended and it starts to rain. You don’t know it is raining because you are involved with something else or you aren’t home in the first place. These collars malfunction quite often and then whammo! You now have either a dead dog or one with so much neck damage, that you are now spending thousands of dollars in vet bills. Plus you will now have a completely and utterly freaked out dog whenever it rains.

You bring your dog inside and his electric collar is still on. Your dog walks past the microwave or other such appliance. There have been cases where appliances have set the collars to shock the dogs. The dog feels intense pain as the shock rips through his neck.

Voila! He is now freaked out with common appliances. Or perhaps part of the fence line is close to a room he is in and he gets zapped with an electric shock. Now he is completely freaked out because there is no safe place for him to be in.

I hope I have made my point against electric shock fencing and that you agree that they are cruel and brutal products.

If you don’t have time or inclination to train, and provide for your dog’s needs, get a stuffed animal!




HOMEWORK HINTS
õ If your pup has already been through baby puppy school and has already acquired the basic, beginner skills (such as focus and concentration), we strongly suggest that you DO NOT practise each exercise taught in class each and every day. Practise 1 X EXERCISE A DAY for a couple of minutes at a time only. By doing this, you and your dog will not become bored or stale!
õ If you have just – for the first time - started dog training and your dog/pup has NOT been through our excellent puppy learning and socialisation programme, then you will need to practise a little more - a couple of exercises for a couple of minutes each day. But beware of overdoing it!
õ Only practise for short periods at a time to avoid boredom setting in (both for you and the dog)!
õ NEVER practice with your dog after a bad day at the office, if you are tired or in a bad mood!
õ Make sure that each interaction and practice session is both fun and rewarding for your dog.
õ Try to practise in a different location and environment each day. Do so at different times, in a different direction and in different weather conditions, so as to ensure that your dog learns to obey you under any circumstances.
õ Put the exercises that you have learnt in class into practice in your daily routines. You do not have to set aside time for “formal” homework. Make it fit into your lifestyle!
õ There is no excuse for not performing homework! You can practise “stays,” “retrieves,” “recalls,” and straight “sits,” whilst you are sitting in a chair watching your favourite soapy on TV.
õ Only practise for a few minutes at a time. Rather have two or three very short practice sessions of a couple of minutes each, than one long, boring, hour-long session. Even “heelwork” exercises can be performed during daily activities. To reiterate, homework should not be formal. Incorporate homework into a fun play session!
õ Quit while you are ahead! If the dog has successfully performed an exercise once – do not repeat it again and again. Not only are you going to bore your dog to pieces and end up a “nag,” but if you – as the handler - make a mistake (which is more likely than the dog making a mistake), you will have to repeat the exercise to gain perfection (putting the dog under pressure) until you BOTH get it right. For example, it has been proved that one perfect “retrieve” is worth 20 bad ones! One minute’s perfect “heelwork” is worth hours of sloppy turns! One perfect recall with a “straight sit” is worth a dozen recalls with crooked sits.
õ Bit by bit, get your dog used to working with distractions. Start with mild, slight distractions and then, over a period of time, work up to something a bit more substantial, with louder noises and more physical activities.
õ If, at any time, the dog regresses, go back to the level where he was working competently. Stay at that level for a while and only then progress to more challenging work.


THE DOG OWNER’S GUIDE TO BEING A GOOD DOG AMBASSADOR
Unfortunately, there are fewer and fewer open areas where you can walk your dog safely and off leash. There was a time when it was safe to let your dog off leash most of the time. But with the dramatic increase in modern traffic and the increase in the urban sprawl, there are now few places left for us doggy people to let our dogs run free.

CLEAN UP AFTER YOUR DOG! Leave the area you are walking in as clean as possible. Take a couple of plastic packets with you – be considerate of other people and keep South Africa clean! Many parks are currently being closed to our pets! Thoughtless dog owners give the rest of us a bad name. Be a responsible dog owner! Good manners in the park means that you should be considerate of other park users.

Do not permit your dog to chase children or bikes, or to interfere with picnickers. Joggers should also be considered.

Make sure that you teach your dog a reliable “recall” (to come robotically when ahe is called). Just because your dog comes when called at home does not mean that ahe will do so under distractions!

If in doubt, use a long line to give her some freedom, but also to ensure that you have full control and can gently insist on compliance.

WHEN TO USE THE LEASH
If you cannot see your dog – she is not under control! It makes sense to call your dog to you when approaching a corner if you cannot see around the bend! When walking in the park, if you see another dog and owner approaching, call your dog to you immediately and put her on leash, until the other person is out of range.

õ Anywhere near a road, even if it appears to be unused. Many dogs (and horses and their riders) are run over by thoughtless drivers each year. Country roads give us a false sense of security and you should be prepared for the unexpected.
õ While we encourage puppies to be socialised, this does not mean that your pup should run up to any strange dog that she sees. When your pup sees another dog, call her to you, have a really exciting game and reinforce this with lots of praise and pop her a treat. If the other dog is friendly and the owner is agreeable, you can permit them to greet each other in a sensible manner.
õ You should then call your puppy/dog to you and have an even more exciting game ready, or a special toy or high-value titbit. At the same time, walk or preferably run in the opposite direction (quick movements will excite her), so that when she has finished with her game/reward, the other dog is out of sight.
õ In rural or country areas, when you are walking on footpaths, you should be vigilant for both livestock and workers. If apparent, put your dog on leash.
õ Care should also be taken if there are growing crops – and do not forget that grass is also a crop! In some areas, it is an offence to allow a dog to be “at large” in a field where there is livestock. This means that, even if the dog is not actually chasing the sheep in the same field, you must still play it safe and keep her on leash.
õ A dog is a natural hunting carnivore, so rather do not give her the opportunity to get into trouble! Remember, if the dog chases the livestock, the farmer has the right to shoot her! Few people realise that certain kinds of livestock, for example sheep, suffer from severe stress, even if they have not been physically injured. Just the trauma of being chased can cause a sheep to die of shock!
õ Care should also be taken with regard to wild birds, buck and any accompanying wildlife.


RULES TO ENSURE A HAPPY RETRIEVE
õ Never practise or train your dog when you are in a bad mood, or if you have had a bad day at the office!
õ Never practise or work your dog if she appears to be off-colour or ill.
õ Keep the breed characteristics (inherited genetics) of each individual breed in mind. Some breeds take longer to learn than others.
õ All learning should be FUN – for both dog and owner!
õ All learning should be based on positive reinforcement or reward-based methods of learning.
õ Abuse and/or abusive methods of learning have no place in dog training.
õ Always be consistent, calm and confident. You must always be consistent in your attitude, voice, commands and body language to obtain positive results.
õ Never chastise or punish a dog/puppy for picking up anything in her mouth. If the dog/puppy has something “undesirable” in her mouth, you can do a “trade” for a valuable object or treat.
õ Your voice is your most important training tool, so use it – especially for encouragement, affirmation and reassurance! In some breeds, a dog’s sense of hearing is at least THREE TIMES GREATER THAN YOURS! So volume is not needed! Rather use a soft, excited tone than an intimidating booming voice!
õ Always retain your sense of humour!
õ Keep all learning sessions fun and light!
õ Make sure that all training sessions are gentle and kind.\
õ Always end the practise session on a good note and, if possible, after a success!
õ Quit when you are ahead!!!! Unless you are following a programme such as the inducive retrieve programme, keep all sessions short and end on a positive note!
õ If the dog has performed an exercise correctly the first time, DO NOT REPEAT THE EXERCISE, as you or your dog might make a mistake the second time, and then you will have to repair the damage done by the mistake! As said earlier: QUIT WHEN YOU ARE AHEAD!


That’s all for now folks! In the next issue we will focus on some other aspects of training and behaviour. Please send me your news and views and I will be happy to include any subject matter that you would like to see in the newsletter. You are most welcome to pass this newsletter onto any of your friends – but it may not be printed without prior consent of said authors of the relevant articles. You can also contribute, comment or start any new topic on the Paws Abilities News and Views Blog Page - where the newsletter and any other questions or comments will be answered. The Blog is situated on the M Web Home Page and entitled “Paws Abilities News and Views”.

Best Regards
Louise
Paws Abilities Behaviour & Learning Centre

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