Paws News August 2007

Paws Abilities Behaviour & Learning Centre
NEWSLETTER NUMBER NINE:
AUGUST 2007:
WHAT’S NEWS?
A warm welcome to all students, behaviour clients and paws abilities friends. Well, - several of us braved the elements, grabbed our passports made sure that our inoculations were up to date, and made the great trek to Dalmas court house, to show our disgust at the psycho who cut his 4-month-old husky’s head off with a chain saw. For many of us (myself included) it was the first time I had ever demonstrated - ever! Like many others ,I just felt that this time we could not just walk away. I must admit that I was not personally holding my breath for a prison sentence, and not withstanding our shock and horror that he was allowed to keep his other five dogs, the result did get the issue of animal abuse into the press and he did have to give R5000 to Springs SPCA. At the trail, there was an affidavit from a local veterinarian who stated that his other five dogs were in good condition and well looked after. After the trial, we discovered where this maniac lives and all went to his home and continued to demonstrate outside his house. We observed the rest of the dogs and I noticed that both of his Great Danes had, what appeared to be skin cancer on their noses, and the male had a large ulcerated area on one of his back legs. Pictures were taken, by both ourselves and the press, and several of us immediately called the Springs SPCA to lodge another complaint against this man. I will keep you all informed - as,- if I am correct, if these new charges stick, I think it is possible that his suspended sentence will be void – wouldn’t that be a bit of light at the end of the tunnel? For updates and information about the gate log onto the husky justice website

We are up and running and preparing for our series of four half day workshops. Ashbury school have kindly let us use their school hall so it is all systems go! THE PAWS ABILITY BEHAVIOUR & TRAINING WORKSHOPS ARE TO BE HELD AT ASHBURY SCHOOL IN BENONI: We are very grateful to the school for their generous offer. Overleaf I have listed the subject matter for each talk. Don’t forget a printed, bound booklet and light refreshments are included in the admission cost. PLEASE BOOK NOW TO AVOID DISAPPOINTMENT. Any profit we manage to make is being donated to charity!
ALSO PLEASE INFORM AND PASS ON OUR FLYERS TO YOUR OWN E MAILS LISTS – WE ARE TRYING TO GET A GOOD TURNOUT


THREE BASIC RULES TO PRODUCE A WELL BEHAVED DOG!
1. Consistency: Communication between different species is not an easy task, especially when one species can talk and the other cannot! Inconsistency makes that task all the more difficult. By adopting consistent behaviours in yourself, setting consistent boundaries and keeping some sort of consistent routine - your dog will have an easier job of figuring out what you expect.

2. Lead by example: dogs tend to mimic our actions. Do not rely on the dog interpreting our intentions correctly. If we yell at our dog for being aggressive, this can lead to more aggression from our dog. Dogs don't necessarily understand that we are angry and upset with their actions, they just follow our lead. When we learn calm approaches to dealing with this sort of problem, our lead is followed with calmness in return.

3. Reward good behaviour: behaviour that is effectively rewarded tends to increase or continue. Therefore it makes sense to reward the behaviour we want to see in our dogs. In the same way we get paid to work, our dogs expect to be paid too. Life in the pack works that way; food, security, shelter, play, and social contact, are the rewards dogs work for. Whilst our pet dogs get most of this stuff for free, it makes sense to ask them to do something to earn it, no matter how simple the task. Asking a dog to sit before letting it outside, or asking for a short 'stay' before being fed are two simple examples. By adopting these three qualities and making them habits in your day-to-day interaction with your dog/s, you will see positive changes in your relationship. Dogs do respect these qualities and respond in kind with faithful companionship.

There is a method which we call NILIFF - Nothing in life is for free!


Question: Who was it who said that a country’s morality could be judged by the way they treat their animals? Answer: Gandi

We “LOVE” Dogs – We even “LIKE” people and sometimes we even like human “KIDS”!

Workshop One is to be held on the 26th August 2007

WORKSHOP ONE:
The following will be covered
What is a behaviour problem?
What kinds of dogs end up at shelters and why?
Some basics on canine behaviour
Basic canine communication
Calming signals – natural conflict avoidance
Canine body postures
How to be your dog’s boss (without the use of force!)
Stages of early canine behavioural development
Early education – What is puppy school?
How to choose a good dog training school
Punishment vs. positive reinforcement training
Dog training – an overview
Why training should be fun for your dog too!
The day ends with an open question and answer session.


Workshop Two is to be held on the 30th September 2007

WORKSHOP TWO
The following topics will be covered
Causes of behaviour problems
Genetics/ breed specifics – what you see is not necessarily, what you get!
Where to buy a puppy.
Solving destructive chewing problems.
Entertaining your dog – preventing boredom in dogs.
How to play with your dog.
Stealing – the “hit and run” dog/pup.
Barking – causes and solutions.
Collar and leash “manners”.
The importance of exercise and mental stimulation.
Teaching your dog to “come” reliably.
How to be a “good dog” ambassador.
The day ends with an open question and answer session.


Workshop Three is to be held on the 28th October 2007

WORKSHOP THREE
The following will be covered
Various forms of dog aggression
Aggression towards people
Canine incompatibilities
Predatory aggression
Hormone related aggression
Fear aggression
Dominant aggression
And various other forms of aggression.
Fear of storms and sound sensitivity
Separation anxiety
The day ends with an open question and answer session


Workshop Four is to be held on the 25th November 2007

WORKSHOP FOUR:
The following topics will be covered.
Including the dog/pup in the human pack/group
How to touch your dog/pup
Greeting and dismissals
Jumping up at people
Doggy “time out”
Car travel – problems and solutions
Are you expecting a new baby? Problems and solutions.
The day ends with a open question and answer session.

DON’T FORGET TO BOOK YOUR PLACE IN THE NEXT WORKSHOP – PLACES ARE LIMITED!
Contact LOUISE AT - (011) 969-4467 MOBILE 082-890-0905 E MAIL louthomp@mweb.co.za
CONTACT LOUISE @ (011) 969-4467 082-890-0905 louthomp@mweb.co.za Fax (011) 334-0126 (mark for attention Louise)




HELPING KIDS TO GET THEIR DOGS TO BEHAVE:
Taken from an article by Sarah Whitehead:
Often a family will purchase a dog – not because they like dogs, but they obtain one for the kids. It is often the children who are left with the responsibility of caring and training the pet and sorting out the behavioural problems – the following exert helps give young kids some guidelines on how to deal with some basic problems.

IS YOUR BEST FRIEND ALWAYS IN TROUBLE?
Does this look familiar? Does your dog get into trouble? Are your parents frustrated with your best friend? Do you know what to do? It's important to know that your dog is not trying to cause problems. He is just doing what comes naturally for a dog. You have to help him learn new ways to entertain himself.

To understand your dog’s point of view and to help your dog behave, try these three suggestions:
1. Pretend to be a dog by getting down on your knees and looking around your house. What do you see? Are there things on the floor that would be interesting and fun if you were a dog? How about shoes, pencils, paper clips, clothing, slippers, etc.?

WHAT YOU SHOULD DO: Pick up all objects from the floor and put them where they belong, or put them in a closet and shut the door.
2. Look around your house. Do you see a door that is open? What is on the other side of that door? Is it a closet with lots of cool things on the floor? Or is it a bedroom with sweet-smelling socks that are easy to reach?

WHAT YOU SHOULD DO: Close all doors that could lead to trouble. The best thing to do is close all doors except for the room you are in.
If your dog is having behaviour problems, he should be supervised at all times.

3. Trash the trash. Where does your family keep the dustbin or rubbish bin? Check the kitchen, bathrooms, bedrooms, and the yard.

WHAT YOU SHOULD DO: All rubbish needs to be put away. Indoor rubbish bins should be put under sinks and in closets or cupboards. If a rubbish bin cannot be put away, it must have a lid. It's natural for your dog to want things that smell good, taste good, look good, and feel good. It doesn't matter whom it belongs to.

· Getting your dog some tempting items that are especially for dogs is a good thing to do. If he has his own things, he can be directed to them when he needs something to do.
· Toys that are smooth, furry, fuzzy, or funny can be interesting. You can throw them or hide them. You can let your dog chew on them or you can put them in the water. What else can you think of?
· Large bones that are real, made of plastic, and are unbreakable can smell and feel good to your dog.
· Use 'Interactive' toys like these below when your dog is bored or when you are not home. They allow your dog to play and have fun.
· Food Cubes. Fill them with treats and watch the fun begin!
· Rugga Toy or Kong. You can throw it and it will bounce funny. But you can also fill it with food and have fun watching your dog try to get it out. You dog will have fun, too!
· Toys that give your dog something to do are well worth the money that they cost.

WHO'S THE BOSS? Dogs need structure in their lives. They need rules. They want to know who the leader is. If it is not clear who the leader is, your dog will appoint himself. A dog that thinks your house is his house needs supervision, even if he is older. It is only natural that a dog who doesn't know the rules, will make up his own. Let your dog know what is allowed, in a clear and gentle manner. Getting up on the table is not where dogs should be, no matter how funny it is. Jumping on the couch is only cute if you allow your dog to do that. Some people like that, some don't. Rules must be clear to your dog. If you can't make up your mind and you let your dog on your bed sometimes, but not other times, he will be confused. Make your rules and stick to them. Everyone in the family needs to know the rules and help your dog to remember them. This is called 'being consistent'. Being consistent means everyone doing something the same way over and over again. If you catch your dog doing something wrong, quietly move him away from the activity by leading him by the collar, or putting a leash on him, or calling his name. Then direct him to a different activity.


A CHILD SAFE DOG – KIDS NEED TO BE TRAINED TOO!
Young children need to be taught the correct responses to dogs and puppies. Far too many children are bitten and maimed each year, and in most cases it could have been prevented by education of both puppy and child. Children tend to give off all the “wrong signals” to dogs and no young child should ever be left unsupervised with any dog – no matter how dependable he is. All children should be educated from an early age how to interpret basic dog body language, and warning signals, and should be taught basic common sense rules, when around and interacting with dogs.

Supervising your kids and dogs, is vital to avoid both the puppy and the child learning the wrong lessons. In fact at this early stage – especially with young children, the child will need as much training as the puppy If you do not have children of your own – borrow a “tame, well-behaved” child from the neighbourhood. The child must be strictly supervised and not permitted to scare or hurt the pup either intentionally or by accident, both must be watched carefully. Introduce one “tame” child at a time, and then when the foundation is laid for positive interaction – gradually over a period of time build up slowly to several “tame/well trained” children to interact with the pup.

TIPS FOR SUPERVISING KIDS/FRIENDS/FAMILY
· Never allow any children to play with dogs or puppies unsupervised – no matter how reliable the dog or pup may be.
· Young children should never be permitted to carry dogs or young puppies.
· Do not allow children to tease or torment puppies. The pups will associate pain and discomfort with the children and as a result may come to learn to hate all children.
· No teasing games or roughhousing ever!!!
· Children should also not be permitted to carry puppies – if a pup is dropped or inadvertently hurt it could affect his perception of children for ever!
· Children should also never be allowed to hug a dog, as the body language is threatening – especially when a dog is resting or sleeping.
· Patting is also not a good idea, rather teach the children how to stroke a dog gently following the line of the fur.
· Play/interaction with children should be a rewarding experience for both child and puppy.
· The pup should never be taught roughhouse or competitive play, especially when around children - as this would teach him – by example – that it is acceptable to use his power and strength against humans.
· Rough play teaches the pup all the wrong examples and sends him all the wrong signals (developing “prey” drive and hunting instincts)
· Rough play also sets a bad example and teaches the pup that it is OK to be rowdy and rough when around people!
· Encourage the kids (and dad) to play games that promote co-operation and control, and encourage positive traits in the pet. Games such as “Fetch” or “Hide and Seek” etc.
· Encourage children to play productive calm controlled games, as described in earlier articles.
· Do not allow children to play chasing games – these encourage all the wrong instincts in dogs – and develop the pups “prey drive” which in the future could have disastrous results.
· Do not feed pups “ad lib”. Pups need to develop an owner dependence on food. Food should be put down for 5 minutes only, and if the pup does not finish within that time, it should be removed after 5 minutes until the next meal.
· Even if the pup only begins to eat after 4 and ½ minutes – it should still be removed after 5 and then the pup should only be offered food at the next correct mealtime.
· Get all your visitors to examine and touch the pup – work yourself on parts of the pup that he finds distasteful. Start with a section that the pup finds acceptable and work forward from there
· Make certain that you, as the “respected leader” initiate contact and interaction with the pup.
· It has been proved that the less “eye contact” one has with a dog, the more influence you have over the animal.
· Set rules and make sure that you keep them, always keeping your temper and with a high degree of patience.
· Say what you mean and mean what you say – even if it means gently physically helping the dog/pup to comply. Once compliance has been achieved he should still be praised and/or rewarded.
· Reward and praise all acceptable behaviour and ignore and/or distract any negative or unwanted behaviour.
· Think of how long it has taken for a bad habit to develop – it could take the same amount of time to eliminate that bad habit!
· Always go through doorways and openings before your pup, - the leader or alpha dog always leads –not follows.
· Try to expose your puppy to as many different and a wide variety of experiences as you can. This will help to develop his self-confidence and thus produce a more stable animal.
· Dr Platzhund from Talk Radio 702 says “Overindulgence by owners creates insecure and dogs that are over-dependant on us”. These dogs are not happy. Dogs need to learn that it is not possible to be with us for 24 hours per day.
· Give the puppy some “Time Out” - starting with a few minutes per day and gradually over a period of time the pup will learn that he is able to cope without you in his presence all the time.
· Make sure the pup is socialised with both his own kind and an assortment of humans from an early age – Puppy learning and socialising groups are an essential part of your puppy’s education.
· Ensure that his learning continues – he can begin formal obedience training from about six months of age! Remember to use it don’t lose it!
· Make sure that your pup is taken out for regular walks in different locations to increase his tolerance and confidence, and to give him appropriate mental and physical stimulation.


We are always reading about dogs that attack, maul and sometimes even kill people or children. While sometimes there are mitigating circumstances the following article gives a wonderful outline on some basic issues that are often neglected to be taken into account. When choosing a pet dog, owners should understand the individuals genetic make up and take into account for what purpose the dog was originally genetically engineered. The following article was written by a veterinary behaviorist, in response to a recent attack on a small child by a male Bull Terrier dog, who incidentally had not been castrated. It outlines the misconceptions and myths about genetics, hormones, the importance of canine and owner education and owner ignorance:
Breed characteristics
The bull terrier is the most powerful dog, weight for weight, in dogdom.
The bull terrier has been genetically selected over hundreds of years to be aggressive to the point of killing anything on the property.
The bull terrier is a fighting breed with a low threshold for tolerance and a high threshold for pain.
The bull terrier has been artificially selected to be brawn with very little brain.
The artificial breeding of the bull terrier has helped create an unpredictable temperament in some lines within the breed.
The unpredictable temperament is mostly in the males of the breed and emerges anytime from 13 to 36 months.
The failure to castrate a male bull terrier as a “pet” is irresponsible.
The bull terrier can never ever be “very highly trained” because they do not have the genetic mental ability for “intelligence”, reliability and stability of character.
Bull terriers can be tenacious over-protective dogs for their owners.
Bull terriers were designed to fight in pits and have a very short fuse for aggression.
A bull terrier living behind four walls with minimal positive, meaningful stimulation will be exponentially more aggressive.
According to the Dog Encyclopaedia (Dr Bruce Fogle) the Bull Terrier “was developed to produce a dog that dazzled observers in the dog-fighting pit” and “strength and tenacity to create the ultimate fighting dog” and “when it does bite, the damage is considerable, because it does not let go easily”.
How did this dog attain 40 Kg when the breed should be between 24 and 28 Kg?

Understanding the background to the attack
1. The kids are visitors to the gran’s property and they have not had the dogs growing up with them with any form of consistency during the dog’s early socialization and imprinting period towards humans, from 8 to 20 weeks of age.
2. When Charley ran out to greet her gran the child’s behaviour must have triggered a response in the dog (this needs to be elucidated).
3. The response of the gran to the grandchild must have further incited the dog e.g. the child running up and screaming with excitement where after the gran lifts the child echoing her vocal and gesticulatory excitement.
4. Any dog not recognizing this human interaction as acceptable, rewarding and familiar may feel that the grandmother was threatened by the child and instinctively the dog’s fighting instincts came into play, during which endorphins are released within the brain, creating an uncontrollable, irrational yet natural onslaught. During the process the dog loses all sense of reality and is in a full attack mode using all its strength for the purpose it has been bred.
5. The raising of the child into the air gave it a height advantage which is often deemed inappropriate by dogs because newcomers and weaklings have to earn the privilege by working their way up in the linear hierarchy. In the case of the child it was given immediate high status.
6. The sudden, extreme consideration directed towards the child, by the gran, was a diversion of attention from the dog. As the dog would respond to any other animal threatening its status it would lash out in an attempt to put the usurper in its rightful position in the hierarchy. Where the “top dog” is a bull terrier and the low-ranking member is child, the latter has not got a chance of retaliation
7. The dog does not see the child as a cute human baby. A child is a noisy, reckless, undisciplined, inconsistent, attention seeking creature with body language conducive to being prey (running and screaming) to a predator (canine).
8. When the child was grabbed by the dog there must have been screaming and yelling from the grandmother’s shocked state. This incites the dog to further aggression because the grandmother is deemed to be threatened by the presence of the child. One should (albeit seem impossible) go down, call the dog to you, in a calm and pleasant manner to avoid further instigation. One needs to understand dogs to apply this BUT a bull terrier has very little capacity in responding to anything reasonable when it is in attack mode. One can equate this to a body builder on steroids and cocaine.
9. In my opinion, any parent or grandparent who entertains the idea that an adult dog of this breed is reliable with children have only themselves to blame for their irresponsibility, ignorance and negligence.
10. If a bull terrier dog is brought in to a home at 6-8 weeks, with kids, and the puppy grows up with the same children on a daily basis it may become equally protective and dedicated towards them provided that:
(a) the puppy emanates from a reputable breeder
(b) the puppy completed a puppy socialization course from 9 to 17 weeks
(c) the puppy is not subjected to teasing, badgering, rough and tumble, tug ‘o’ war games during its impressionable period
(d) the puppy completed a basic obedience course
(e) the puppy is castrated at 6 months
(f) the puppy is never left alone with children
11. The bull terrier dog must have been made to feel so important within its home environment, by the grandmother, that it took the law into its own hands as pack leader. If dog owners are not assertive:
(a) over-affectionate towards their dogs without purpose,
(b) allow the dogs to do what they want, when they want
(c) allow the dogs to be on the furniture
(d) allow the dogs to eat without working for it etc.

By being over-attentive and over-attached, all “high-ranking” dogs regard this behaviour as a sign of weakness meted out by the “omega” (lowest ranking) pack members.
AN ELDERLY WOMAN CAN NEVER BE MORE ASSERTIVE THAN A MALE BULL TERRIER, UNLESS SHE HAS HAD YEARS OF HANDS-ON EXPERIENCE, UNDERSTANDING AND KNOWLEDGE OF CANINE BEHAVIOUR
12. The little girl’s love for her gran’s dogs is irrelevant. It is not comforting nor assertive behaviour from the dog’s perspective.
13. Dogs need not display any signs of aggression previously. Not all dogs warn by growling first. Do human criminals warn anyone about their intended crime before they carry it out? There is always a first time.
14. Dogs respond by instincts and not by premeditation!

15. Statistics, court cases and the media have proved that many individuals within this breed are relatively untrustworthy and socially unacceptable
16. Most of it has to do with the genetic line bred by breeders of disrepute.
17. A reputable breeder will select dogs of good and reliable temperament so that they can be enjoyed as pets.


UNDERSTANDING AGGRESSION:
Aggressive behaviour is part of the normal behavioural repertoire of almost any animal species, including dogs. Owners are sometimes confused as to whether or not their dogs are displaying aggressive behaviour. What is aggression?

Behaviourally, aggression is any behaviour whose intent is to intimidate or harm another animal. Thus, growling, baring teeth, snarling, and snapping are all aggressive behaviours, just as is biting. Although aggressive behaviours are normal for any dog, they are generally unacceptable in most situations. From the dog's perspective, there is always a reason or motivation for aggressive behaviour. Because humans and dogs have different communication systems, misunderstandings may occur between the two species. A person may intend to be friendly toward a dog, or at least not threatening, but the dog may perceive the person's behaviour as threatening or intimidating. Dogs generally, are not schizophrenic, psychotic, crazy, or necessarily "vicious" when they display aggressive behaviour. Dogs show aggression for many different reasons and often for more than one reason.

Dominance aggression is motivated by a challenge to a dog's social status or to its control of a social interaction. Dogs are social animals and normally live in groups or packs. Dogs view their human families as their social group. Based on the outcomes of social challenges among group members, a dominance hierarchy or "pecking order" is established. If a dog perceives its own ranking in the hierarchy to be higher than that of its owners, it is likely the dog will challenge the owner in certain situations. Because people do not always understand canine communication, they may challenge the dog's social position inadvertently, without even being aware they are doing so. Dominantly aggressive dogs may growl when disturbed when resting or sleeping, especially from a favourite spot such as the couch or the bed. Physical restraint, even when done in a friendly manner like hugging may also cause the dog to respond aggressively. Reaching for the dog's collar or reaching out over its head to pet it can be interpreted by the dog to be dominance challenges. Dominantly aggressive dogs are often described as "Jekyll and Hydes" because they can be very friendly when not challenged. Dominance aggression can be directed at people or at other animals. The most common reason dogs in the same family fight with each other is because of an instability in the dominance hierarchy.

Fear motivated aggression is a defensive reaction and occurs when the dog believes it is in danger of being harmed. Remember it is the dog's perception of the situation, not the intent of the human which determines whether the situation is potentially harmful. For example, you may be raising your arm to throw a ball, but a dog may perceive this to be a threatening arm movement, and bite you because he believes he is protecting himself from being hit or struck. A dog may also be fearfully aggressive when approached by other dogs. Protective, territorial, and possessive aggression are all very similar, and involve the defence of valuable resources. Territorial aggression is usually associated with defence of property.
However, a dog's sense of territory may extend well past the boundaries of his yard. For example, if a dog is walked regularly around the neighbourhood, and is allowed to urine-mark, to him, his territory may be the entire block! Protective aggression usually refers to aggression directed toward people or animals whom the dog perceives as threats to his family, or pack. Dogs become possessively aggressive when defending their food, toys, or other valued objects such as Kleenex stolen from the trash!

Redirected aggression is relatively common but is behaviour that pet owners may not always understand. If a dog is aroused into an aggressive response by a person or animal whom it is prevented from attacking, it may then redirect this aggression onto someone else. A common example occurs when two family dogs become excited, bark, and growl in response to another dog passing through the front yard. The two dogs, confined behind a fence, may turn and attack each other because they cannot attack the intruder.

Predation is usually considered to be a unique kind of aggressive behaviour, because it is motivated by the intent to obtain food, and not primarily by the intent to harm or intimidate. Dogs differ in their likelihood to show aggressive behaviour in any particular situation. Some dogs tend to respond aggressively with very little stimulation. Others may be subjected to all kinds of threatening stimuli and events, and never attempt to bite. The difference in this threshold at which a dog displays aggressive behaviour is influenced by both environmental and genetic factors. If this threshold is lowered, a dog will be more likely to bite. Raising the threshold makes a dog less likely to respond aggressively. This threshold can be raised or lowered using behaviour modification techniques. How easily this threshold can be changed is influenced by the dog's gender, age, breed, general temperament, and by whether the appropriate behaviour modification techniques are chosen and correctly implemented. Working with aggressive animals can be a potentially dangerous undertaking, and should be done only by, or under the guidance of, an experienced animal behaviour professional who understands animal learning theory and behaviour.

The Use of Punishment: Punishment will not make a dog less aggressive. If the aggression is motivated by fear, punishment will only make the dog more fearful, and therefore more aggressive. Attempting to punish or dominate a dominantly aggressive dog is likely to cause the dog to escalate his behaviour in order to retain his dominant position. This is likely to result in a bite or severe attack. Even if one person can successfully intimidate the dog, it is highly unlikely that everyone else the dog encounters will be able to do the same. Punishing territorial, possessive, or protective aggression is likely to elicit additional defensive aggression.
Appropriate Behaviour Modification Techniques: With the use of techniques called counter conditioning and desensitisation it is possible to teach the dog a new, non-aggressive response, and significantly raise the threshold at which aggressive behaviour is likely to occur. In order to be successful, these procedures must be implemented in a series of very small increments or steps. If done incorrectly, these techniques can make the problem worse, and may put people in danger. They should be implemented by, or under the direction of, an animal behaviour professional who understands animal learning theory and behaviour.
Preventing Problems: Because both environmental and genetic factors influence how readily any dog will display aggression, dog owners can take several steps to prevent aggressive behaviour problems from developing. Dogs with aggressive behaviour problems should NEVER be bred, as they can pass these behavioural tendencies along to their offspring. Between the ages of 4 and 16 weeks, puppies experience a crucial developmental period during which time they form their first social bonds. Puppies exposed to many different people, places, animals, and environmental events during this time will be better able as adults to accept changes in their environment. This socialization process must be done gradually, and in such a way that a puppy has only positive experiences. Puppies socialised in this way will be less likely to be afraid, defensive, and aggressive. Puppies which are fearful and aggressive may need professional help. Dog owners should NEVER encourage aggressive behaviour. Playing tug-of-war or wrestling games encourages the dog to attempt to "best", or "win out” over the owner, which can result in the beginning of a dominance aggression problem. When dogs are encouraged to "go get 'em" or to bark and dash about in response to outside noises or the approach of a person, territorial and protective aggressive behaviour may be the result. Intact males’ dogs are more likely to display dominance, territorial, and protective aggressive behaviour than are neutered males or females. Neutering a male dog will thus help to reduce the frequency of these types of aggressive behaviours. Neutering will not affect fear motivated, redirected or possessive aggression. If you have any concerns contact an accredited animal behaviour consultant who will be able to guide you and assist you with a resolution.


THE IMPORTANCE OF NEUTERING:
Not enough male dogs are sterilised today! There seems to be a big “hang up” about this simple medical procedure, myths and “old wives” stories abound, and usually given as reasons by owners, as why they don’t want to have their dogs “fixed”. I am also not ashamed to admit that I am actively trying to discourage people from adding to the unwanted dog over population! This simple procedure is performed under general anaesthetic by your veterinarian, on average, when your male pup is about six months of age.
In dogs, it has been scientifically proved that there is a direct link between the production of testosterone and dominant aggressive behaviour, both inter-canine (dog to dog) and human-canine (dog to human). The male dog’s level of testosterone “peaks” at about 30 months. Did you know that the profile of a typical dog who has attacked, and either mauled or killed a child is: - “A male dog between the ages of 24 and 30 months, which has not been castrated of various working and fighting breeds.” What is even more disturbing is that a good many of these attacks are by the family pet dog! In their own home! Most of these incidents could have been avoided and even prevented!

The following description of dogs who would be more likely to attack, are: -
· Dogs that have had no learning or education. A dog’s education should begin at a reputable puppy learning and socialising group from about seven weeks of age and all learning should be reward based/positive reinforcement methods of learning. Abuse and punishment have no place in animal learning. Education for a young pup and dog is vital to increase his levels of tolerance to all things, and people, as well as him learning basic manners and obedience to develop into a socially acceptable companion animal.
· Owners who keep dogs living behind solid walls with no appropriate stimulation, (visual, mental or physical) kept as mobile security systems or defence mechanism, including dogs that have little or no contact with their owners and who are kept just as “Yard Dogs”.
· Abused and or injured or sick dogs.
· Dogs that are kept chained up for long periods of time.
· Dogs that have been extensively physically punished, and develop “defensive” fear aggression.
· Dogs who have been teased and tormented by children and develop a negative association with children.
· Untrained/partly untrained dogs that are taught “aggression” by ignorant trainers, and are triggered by an inappropriate situation. This would be considered as a “misread signal” by the dog.
· Overtly indulged dogs that are given all the privileges of leadership in the human canine pack. These “spoiled brat” dogs often take it upon themselves to make a misguided critical decision in the home. No dog can cope with the responsibility of being the leader in the human – dog pack or group. Humans should be clear decision-makers and the dog should earn all privileges.

Unless the dog is a show animal, registered and a tip top breed champion dog with registered with the Kennel Union of Southern Africa or Federation papers, and is winning at breed and/or obedience dog shows: - NEUTER HIM! Even a pure bred dog, (without Kennel Union registration papers) is worthless. A pure bred registered dog that has not proved himself in the ring (either breed or obedience) is also worth dramatically less than a winner! One male dog can father hundreds of unwanted mongrel “randomly bred” puppies a year – of which a great number will be humanly killed by welfare agencies, as there are just too many dogs to place in homes! Many of these unwanted pups end up being abused and used for many horrendous purposes, from dog fighting bait (for big money) to animal experimentation or just unloved and unwanted then dumped! NEUTER HIM! Neutering your Male Dog is the Ethical Thing to Do!

ADVANTAGES OF NEUTERING A MALE DOG
Neutered dogs live longer – risks of testicular cancer are eliminated.
Neutering lowers dominant aggressive behaviour towards owners by 65%.
Neutering lowers inter-dog aggressive behaviour by some 65%
There is a reduction of straying and wandering by some 80%
There is a reduction of inappropriate urination/marking behaviour by 70%
Neutering also lowers the male dog’s urge to mount, and simulate inappropriate copulation movements by some 70%
Neutering focus’s attention and concentration.

DISPELLING THE NEUTERING MYTHS:
Neutered dogs put on weight! ------------------- So will you if you eat too much and don’t exercise enough!
Neutered dogs make poor watchdogs! --------------------- How can that be? As neutering focuses attention and improves concentration.
Neutering my dog will make him a wimp. -----------------------------Only if he was already a wimp to start with! Neutering does not change, and can not change your dog’s basic character!
Unless the dog is a show animal, registered and a tip top breed dog with papers, and is winning at breed and/or obedience dog shows: -Neuter him
If your dog is of a fighting breed and you are expecting a baby in the near future - Neuter him
If you have any hint of aggressive or dominant behaviour – Neuter him
If you have more than one male dog of different ages and want to avoid future aggression/fighting when the lower dog reaches maturity. Neuter the lower ranking (victim) dog at an early age to avoid status aggression.

As an after thought - in closing I might add, that unlike their human counterparts, the only time that a male dog thinks of sex, is when there is a bitch in season within range without a headache! Dogs have sex for procreation only – not for recreation. The rest of the time, the male dog is more interested in his supper!


That’s all for now folks – please give me a shout if there is anything that you would like to be included in our newsletter. I need your input, ideas news, and view so please don’t hesitate to contribute.

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Happy Heeling
Louise Thompson