September 2005 News

“Paws Abilities”
Behaviour & Learning Centre
Newsletter No 2 / September 2005.

FROM THE EDITOR:
A warm welcome to all “Paws Abilities” students and friends: This is our second “official” newsletter, and I have been thrilled with the response. As I said in the first issue, please don’t hesitate to forward this little publication to anyone who you think might be interested. Provide us with your news, views and criticisms - contact me, Louise at (011) 969-4467, mobile 082-890-0905 or via e mail at louthomp@mweb.co.za

K9 KIDS NEWS:
Our outreach programme to help kids and dogs in underprivileged area begins at the end of this month with the first selection of dogs and kids being made. A big thank you to all the Paws students, staff and friends, who have already done an amazing job of collecting much needed money to start this programme (don’t stop now – we are just beginning!). We need funds for sterilisation, inoculations, de-worming, kids T shirts and caps, leads, collars etc. We are also desperately looking for fencing (& posts) in order to erect some separated training areas, for the kids whose dogs have limited social skills (dogs and/or people)

I have put together some raffle lists – so please come to training and collect your lists – the prize is three months free dog training or a full private behaviour consultation. Lists are available at the school.

We have been having meetings with various vets in the area and will be printing a list of vets who are aiding us in the near future. We are also very thrilled to be able to inform you that all the local SPCA’s have given us their blessing and full support and have offered to help us with transport and other assistance if needed.

In the first issue we discussed thinking about getting a new puppy. In this issue I though we could discuss some of the various breeds and their characteristics to give an idea of what breed of dog would be best for you!

FUN DAY:
Now that the weather is getting warmer we are planning to hold our annual fun day next month. Included on the day for the first time is to be the Kennel Union of SA “Canine Good Citizen Test”, which is open to all students. We will also be holding our usual games (with the dogs of course – egg and spoon race (with your dog on a leash,) sack race, cup case race, and of course my own personal favourite the 11 legged race. We have also decided to hold a mock obedience show of various levels and a mock agility competition – in order to give students an idea of what competing in the ring is all about! So it is going to be a full day with loads of fun for the whole family – more to come where it is nearer the date:

MAKING THE RIGHT CHOICE.
The results of this decision are permanent, and will have an impact on you and your family for at least the next 10 to 15 years or so (age/longevity is breed specific). It is imperative that you chose your puppy from the correct breed group in order to find the perfect companion to fit in with your individual lifestyle, character and family dynamics, and original purpose of each breed must be taken into account. This will give you an idea of the dogs’ basic characteristics, intelligence, energy levels compatibilities and training needs.

When deciding on a breed to buy, take the following into consideration:-
· The reason that the family want a dog? Each family member may have different perceptions of owning a dog. A lap dog to cuddle, a big brave protection dog to take on long lonely walks, a working dog, something to brag to the neighbours about, or any combination thereof.
· The (adult) size of the prospective dog and the energy level of the animal
· The amount of time you have available for exercise, training and maintenance (grooming long or short haired breeds)
· The age and character of your human children (if the children are small, are they going to be knocked over by a large exuberant breed?) Families with undisciplined children tend to produce naughty undisciplined dogs so perhaps a smaller, calmer, easier to manage breed would be more ideal.

The family need to agree on which breed of dog they like. They then have to work out the best choice of breed to fit in with their individual lifestyle? The answer to the above is research, research and more research! Do not rush into anything! All breeds of dogs are different! If unsure of what breed of dog is best for you and your family, please contact an professional accredited animal behaviour consultant who will be able to advise and guide you in making the right choice (contact details available at the end of this newsletter)

The following will give you an idea of categories of the different dog breeds. (Taken from “The Encyclopaedia of the Dog” by Dr B Fogle)

Sight Hounds: Examples of the breeds are:- Greyhound, Afghan Hound, Borzoi, Saluki, Irish Wolfhound, Whippet etc.
Bred for speed with aerodynamic build for flying like an arrow after prey, sight hounds are almost invariably tall, long, lean, lithe running hounds. They are products of selective breeding thousands of years ago, as sophisticated as any selective breeding today. All sight hounds emanated from Southwest Asia.
Sight hounds thrive on physical activity and need regular access to open spaces to run and exercise. They are generally of benign temperaments, but are not overly demonstrative. They are quiet and usually reliable with children, but in their purebred form are not particularly territorial.
All sight hounds have a strong instinct to chase small animals.

Scent Hounds: Examples of the breeds are:- Bloodhound, Basset Hound, Doberman, Beagle, Kerry Beagle, Spaniel, Rhodesian Ridgeback etc.
While Sight Hounds rely upon vision and great speed to capture, or corner prey. Scent Hounds use their noses and profound stamina to wear down “game”,
and bring the “game” to bay. The Bloodhound, whose membrane lining to its nasal cavity is of a greater surface area than its entire body, is the supreme
scent follower. Although dogs use all of their senses when hunting, hearing is relatively unimportant to the scent hound. The sight hound chases silently;
the scent hound hunts methodically, but will bark, howl, or bay when it encounters the scent trail of its prey.

Scent hounds are generally amenable, and more willing to live together than other types of dogs.
Their formidable scenting ability is beyond human comprehension. They possess certain physical characteristics that help them to pick up on the faintest
scent; for example, their lopped and generally long ears crate air currents that help them to detect scents, and their pendulous, moist lips can also trap
scent. The intensity, which these dogs work, can be staggering! Some breeds do not have the killer’s instinct, leaving the dirty work of the hunt to other dogs
such as terriers, or to the humans. Scent hounds are generally reliable with children and other dogs. As a group they are not as demonstrative as terriers, or
as affectionate as companion dogs, or as trainable as gundogs. Scent Hounds are most content when working, be it following the trail of a fox or
following the paw prints of the last dog that crossed its path.

Spitz Type Dogs: Examples of the breeds are:- Siberian Husky, Alaskan Malamute, Pomeranian, Papillon, Keeshond, Chow Chow, Schipperke etc.
No group of dogs has had a more influential relationship with humans that the Spitz type breeds that evolved throughout the Arctic regions of the world, in what are now the Scandinavian countries, and in Russia, Alaska, and Canada.
The liaison between these dogs and many people living in these harsh regions is highly interdependent, and it is likely that the tribes of people along the Arctic islands would not have survived without the help of these versatile canines. The anatomy of these breeds, are well suited to harsh northern climates. Their coats are dense and have a water resistant undercoat, with thick fur even between their toes. Known to be somewhat aloof, they are not always easy to manage, and many breeds require extensive training

Terriers: Examples of the breeds are:- Airedale Terrier, Irish Terrier, Kerry Blue Terrier, Smooth Fox Terrier, Wire Haired Fox Terrier, Cairn Terrier, West Highland White Terrier, Scottish Terrier, Yorkshire Terrier, American Staffordshire Terrier, Boston Terrier, American Pit Bull Terrier, Miniature Pinscher, Miniature Schnauzer, Bedlington Terrier, Staffordshire Bull Terrier, Parson Jack Russell Terrier, Jack Russell Terrier, Bull Terrier, Dachshund etc.

Terriers evolved from hounds – in appearance, the German Dachshund is a classic example of a scent hound, miniaturised and dwarfed through selective breeding. Breeding also considered personality – the Terriers aggressive instinct was enhanced, so that it would work ruthlessly and efficiently without backing down when confronted by fox or badger. There is no group of dogs more expert at tunnelling than terriers; these feisty dogs still willingly engage in head on combat with earth dwelling mammals on their opponents home territories. As family pets, terriers are a joy, they love the rough and tumble and have unlimited energy. Often highly active (some bordering on hyper-activity) they do however retain their instinct to nip. Most make excellent pets if trained correctly and if the excessive yapping is controlled from an early age they can make good city pets and superb watchdogs.

Gundogs: Examples of breeds are:- Labrador Retriever, Flat Coated & Golden Retriever, English Pointer, English Springer Spaniel, American Cocker Spaniel, English Cocker Spaniel, English Setter, Irish Setter, German Pointers, Weimaraner, Standard Poodle etc.

The Gundog group, are considered easier to train than many other groups. Gundogs are almost invariably relaxed with children, less inclined to fight among themselves than any other breed, and in most instances are eager and willing to obey commands. For thousands of years, sight and scent hounds accompanied hunters in search of food or in pursuit of sport. Natural genetic variations of coat texture length of bone, scenting ability, and levels of obedience had always occurred, but with the introduction of firearms to hunting, breeders took a far greater interest in these other traits. Dog breeding subsequently took a dramatic leap forwards, producing highly responsive and amenable workers. Today these trustworthy breeds are some of the world’s most popular canine companions.

Livestock Dogs:- Examples of the breeds are:- German Shepherd Dog, Belgium Shepherd Dog, Border Collie, Shetland Sheepdog, Rough Collie, Bearded Collie, Corgi, Old English Sheepdog, Australian Shepherd Dog, Giant Schnauzer, Schnauzer, Bernese Mountain Dog, Mastiff, Bullmastiff, Boxer, Great Dane, Rottweiler, Shar Pei, St Bernard, Newfoundland, Pyrenean Mountain Dog, Bouvier Des Flandes,

When our human hunter ancestors became cultivators and farmers, the guarding activity of dogs was extended to protecting livestock. Shepherds soon discovered that if dogs were raised with sheep, goats, or cattle from an early age, they looked after these animals as if they were members of their own pack. These guardians soon became indispensable. The herding breeds such as the Border Collie and other Shepherd breeds are often high activity dogs needing lots of exercise and mental stimulation. Generally good all round workers they make good family companions, but do need lots of time and energy invested in them. The guarding varieties are somewhat less energetic, but can be strong willed and also need a great deal of training due to their size, physical power and strength.

Companion Dogs:- Examples of breeds are: - Maltese, Chihuahua, Lhasa Apso, Shih Tzu, Pekingese, King Charles Spaniel, Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, French Bulldog, Pug, Poodles (Medium, and Toy) Dalmatian (Dalmatian was previously a working dog)

All dogs offer companionship – they seem to understand our emotions. Most look upon the people they live with as part of their own community, even the fiercest dog usually acts like a teddy bear with the people it knows. Almost all cultures in the word keep pets, usually dogs, for no obvious purpose other than companionship. Some breeds evolved for no other functional reason than to offer warmth, company and entertainment.
These were generally small breeds, originally created for the amusement of women.

DECIDING ON WHICH BREED IS RIGHT FOR YOUR FAMILY:
Breed research, research and more research:
Take into account the original purpose of each breed, (achieved by using selective genetics and breeding) For example, the Border Collie (a herding breed) was originally designed to herd/control sheep, and the American Pit Bull Terrier was designed as a killing machine for the barbaric sport of dog fighting. Boxers were bred to bait bulls (hence the flat face,) and Jack Russell Terriers were bred to go to “earth” to aid in vermin control.

Often, the best family pets are found in the “Gundog Group”. With the correct genetics and the right upbringing, breeds such as the Labrador, and the Golden Retriever, can make wonderful family pets and obedient companions. The only dog of this group, who is reputed to be a bit short-tempered, is the Cocker Spaniel, as they have a rather short fuse, and are considered “sharp” by those in the dog world, but they do adapt well with more mature families.

The suitability of breeds in the “Gundog Group” is partly due to the fact, that many breeds in this group have been bred to have a closer bond with people,
than they do with there own kind! Therefore, the adjustment into a human “pack” is very easy for them. Do try to find out what the animal’s original purpose was, and how will this relate or fit into your lifestyle. Another example of acquiring a dog fit your need is, if you are an avid road runner, an ideal companion to go running with you would be the Dalmatian. The Dalmatian was originally bred as a carriage dog, unique among all breeds, to clear a path in populated areas for horse drawn carriages. For centuries, Dalmatians used to accompany stagecoaches on trips from London to Dover in the Britain. The horses were changed every 20 miles or so, but the same dog did the entire trip from London to Dover and the return trip! In recent times the Dalmatian has bred as a companion dog, but in years past, it was a superb working dog.

WHEN CHOOSING A BREED, DON’T BE INFLUENCED BY FASHION! Dog fashions come and go, rather choose a breed that will suit you and your environment and family lifestyle!

Before buying a pup: To help you decide which breed of dog is the “right” choice, for you, visit as many of the local dog shows in your area as you can. Watch, learn, look, ask lots of questions from both the breeders and dog handlers alike, and listen. Dog people are usually thrilled to talk about their own particular breed, and tons of valuable information can be gained from them. You can also make a point of visiting your local dog obedience training school to give you an idea of which breeds seem to take your fancy and how easy or difficult they are to work with and to train.

Find an obedience school, which uses only “Positive Reinforcement” or reward based training methods. Today there is no place for abusive training methods, with dogs being yanked about on choke chains, pinch collars and other kinds of torture equipment. The dog training school should be a place where owners and dogs alike, have fun, and learn in a positive calm and gentle environment. At the dog training school, you can observe the different breeds in action. See which breeds are easy to handle. If you are looking for a dog that is good with kids see which owners also have (well behaved) kids interacting with the dogs, which will also give you some clues to which is the breed for you. Ask questions, chat to handlers and trainers alike. The more questions you ask, the more information you receive and the better your choice will be. There are also numerous “breed” books, which will give you loads of information about each specific breed, its original purpose, and these books include basic breed characteristics.

Take into account practicalities like the size of your garden etc. For example, it would be absolute lunacy to get a high-energy dog like a Border Collie or a Jack Russell Terrier, if you live in a tiny gardened townhouse. That is unless you are at home all day, and prepared to take the dog out three times a day for a five-kilometre run. You have to consider that breeds such as the Border Collie were bred as working animals, designed to be able to run for long distances over rough terrain when herding sheep for many hours at a time! They are highly intelligent, extremely agile and can be a quite a handful Having a big garden is simply not enough for breeds like the Border Collie, they need loads of mental stimulation – constant challenges, and things to do and learn in order to keep them out of trouble, and as a breed, are extremely time consuming to keep. When Border Collies do not receive enough mental and physical stimulation they often present with destructive behaviour, digging, chewing, pulling washing off the line etc. This destructive behaviour is sometimes the only outlet they have to alleviate their frustration.

Hyperactive, excitable breeds are best suited to larger properties, with a family that is in a position to entertain them and keep them occupied. For example, breeds like the Jack Russell are notorious for being very excitable and often hyperactive. They also need tons of mental and physical stimulation. With regard to the Jack Russell Terrier, they can also be avid gardeners and are often tenacious hunters!

Fighting breeds, such as Pit Bull Terriers, Staffordshire Terriers, Bullterriers etc are often totally incompatible with all kinds of other animals, and I am not just talking about dog incompatibilities. They have exceptionally strong “prey drives” (hunting instincts) and it is unusual to find a terrier that is compatible with any small “prey” type animals. Taking a chance with a pet rabbit or cat - could be disastrous! Some individuals in the “fighting breeds” group are bred to be so anti-social (among their own species), that they are doomed to spend the rest of their lives as only dogs! Some cannot even be kept with another dog of the opposite sex! This does not appear to be a problem as long as the human “pack” fulfils the animals’ pack needs. While many of these “Fighting breeds” are wonderful with people and children, it must never be forgotten that this love for people does not extend to other animals especially other dogs and small mammals.

Terriers, as previously mentioned, with their strong “prey” drive, love to dig out moles and field mice and are avid gardeners. These breeds go way beyond normal puppy exploratory digging. So if you pride aesthetic perfection in the garden, then you should think very carefully before purchasing a Terrier …..
Certain “Gun Dog” breeds, such as the Labrador and the Golden Retriever are also notorious water lovers! This stands to reason as they were bred to retrieve birds out of lakes, and rivers! So if you have a swimming pool and don’t like soggy carpets or don’t want to be continually cleaning the pool filter (which will get clogged up with dog hair) think very carefully before you choose a water dog!

DOG FASHIONS: People seem to go through “fads” and the newest craze seems to be different each month. Try not to be influenced by fashion, but rather use a large dose of common sense. Choose the right breed for your individual needs, character, lifestyle and life-space!

WHAT IF YOU ALREADY HAVE A DOG? If you already own a bitch, then taking on a bitch puppy is asking for trouble. It has been found that if there is an incompatibility resulting in aggression between pet dogs; bitches often fight far more intensely than male dogs. If you have an existing dog - only consider buying a dog of the opposite sex or at some stage, the fur will fly! Should you already have an existing dog in the family then the “compatibility” of the two genetic/breeds also needs to be considered. If you are in any doubt regarding breed compatibility, contact an accredited animal behaviour consultant for advice (details at the end of this newsletter.)

Introducing a male puppy to an older male dog can also end in disaster. If the older male dog accepts the male puppy when it is little, things usually are fine for the first six to nine months. As soon as the male puppy’s hormones start to develop, then the problems begin. Most (male dog) inter-dog aggression appears to begin when the puppy is about 6 to 8 months of age and usually is at it’s worst when the puppy’s male hormone – “testosterone”, - peaks at about 20 to 30 months of age. If you decide to take on a male puppy to go with your existing male dog, the puppy should be neutered at an early age to prevent status related inter-dog aggression. Do not neuter the existing older dog, or they will retain their equality, and in a pack there are no equals, only leaders, and followers. Neutering both dogs can actually increase the aggression as it equalises the “rank or status” of the two males. Just because both animals will be of the same species, or breed, (even if they are related or siblings!) there is no reason that they should specifically like each other on sight. Dogs have tastes, - likes and dislikes – just like us, and no two dogs are the same!

Some breeds of the same sex do get on better with each other than other specific breeds. Breeds from the “Herding, Gundog and Hound” groups seem to cope with living together in larger groups than most other breeds. There are certain other breeds that when put together can spell disaster. Breeds with a high natural level of “Status or Rank”, such as the Rottweiler, Bullmastiff and the SA Boerboel often have compatibility problems.

This natural high level of “Status” is not restricted to large breeds by any means! Small Terriers, including the Yorkshire Terrier, Jack Russell Terrier, the SA Maltese “Poodle” (which is actually a Terrier) to name but a few, are extremely bossy by nature and can cause havoc when mismatched in a family.


CHALLENGE FEEDING YOUR DOG – WAYS TO PREVENT BOREDOM IN “ONLY” DOGS!
This is a great way to keep an “only dog” busy – also helps to prevent separation anxiety & adds owner “status” as he has to “earn” his meals!
(This method is not suitable for multi dog households!)

Is your dog looking for a new challenge? Does he have too much time on his paws and energy to spare despite your best efforts to exhaust him with long walks? Perhaps you need to think again about his meal times.

For many dogs feeding times are the highlight of the day, but 30 seconds later the bowl is empty and he is left with nothing to look forward to. This is obviously a very unnatural situation. Wild dogs and wolves spend a large portion of time and effort acquiring food. No one is suggesting that you stop feeding your dog and send him out to find his own dinner, but you can make getting food slightly more challenging.

The first step is to do away with the food bowl. Eating a pile of food is never going to be a challenge. Instead, try scattering dry food around the garden. Not only does this encourage your dog to use his nose, which is mentally tiring, but you will be amazed at how much energy he will expend criss-crossing the garden to ensure that he has found every last crumb. Try filling a plastic container with snacks and dry food. Then, as your dog nudges it around he will be rewarded with food falling out. Alternatively, suspending a similar container just above nose height will encourage aerial nudging!

There are also commercial products such as the Buster® Cube which work the same way. If you really want to up the stakes, stuff food into sterilised bones, cow hooves or specially made toys such as a Kong®. These have an advantage as canned food can be put in as well. Once your dog gets adept at emptying his Kong®, try freezing it - that will slow him down a bit.

Obviously supervise your dog when ever he is chewing toys to make sure he only eats the food and not the toy!

So why bother? Apart from prolonging your dog's mealtimes and consequently his pleasure at being fed, these are great energy-burners. Too often we try to physically exhaust our dogs with long walks without burning off any mental energy. The other advantage is that all dogs can do this, even the older ones which are no longer up to two hour walks or long games of fetch, but still need something to keep them occupied if they are not going to get depressed.

Have fun feeding your dog!




HOW TO TOUCH YOUR DOG/PUPPY:
When touching your pup/dog concentrate on your movements, make sure that they are confident and firm.

MOVE YOUR HANDS SLOWLY but firmly! Avoid hesitant jerky or dithering hand movements – the pup/dog will see this as lack of confidence and he could then feel unsure of you. A common fault with many people is to move too quickly, both in body language and when touching their pets.

With a young pup or an excitable dog, fast hand movements cause excitement and encourage boisterous/snappy behaviour and even can encourage aggressive/defensive behaviour. Remember dogs mirror their owner’s behaviour. Slow, steady, calm, firm movements set a good example.

The dog/pup uses his mouth much in the same way that we use our hands so we have to try and get the pup/dog to understand the basic rules.

Touch Rules:
Never pat a dog or allow children to pat a dog especially on its head. This could be misinterpreted as aggression and cause a dog to nip or bite. Patting does not feel very pleasant, especially when whacked on the head by well meaning children. Pat yourself on the head and see how you like it! Wouldn’t you rather be stroked and caressed than patted?
Never allow children to hug a dog for the same reasons as explained above.
Leaning over a dog or pup (towering over from above) is extremely threatening and could cause an aggressive defensive response. So expecially with strange dogs don’t lean over them when petting and encourage kids not to do the same!
Teach children from the beginning the correct ways to interact with animals!
Try to consciously use firm slow hand movements, and here I can not over emphasise the SLOW hand movements. Move your hands the same way that his hair falls, which is comforting for him, emulates grooming and makes him feel safe and loved. Beware of overdoing it!

GREETING YOUR DOG
Let your dog say hello to you (when you are in the mood not on the pup’s terms) by showing him inviting body language - open arms/open hands big smile, and leaning your shoulders and body back!
Leaning over the pup is rejection and tells him (in dog body language) to go away!
The open arms are very important, as dogs perceive this as being invited into your personal space. You can then give him a cuddle and stroke as explained above. Keep your hands low in order not to encourage him to jump up at you, and stroke his face and ears.
Remember to dismiss him BEFORE HE HAS HAD ENOUGH AND ON YOUR TERMS!. Remember all interactions should begin and end on your terms not the dogs.

DISMISSAL:
To dismiss the dog when you have had enough: Simply elevate your head and turn your face and shoulders away from the dog/pup. Break the eye contact and ignore him. In dog language this means:- “I’ve had enough now you can go”. “I’m OK right now – I don’t need you with me/to back me up, at the moment”.


COPROPHAGIA
Young and growing dogs have a high requirement for energy, and it has been shown that they can obtain useful additional nutrition from eating their own or other dogs faeces during this critical phase. However, after growth has been completed and with more attractive alternative food available, faeces eating usually stops. However, a few individuals, especially of "greedy" breeds such as Beagles and Labradors, may continue with this unpleasant habit.

Coprophagia (as faeces-eating is technically known) does not necessarily occur because the dog is ill (e.g. has a worm infestation) or fed on an inappropriate or imbalanced diet. However, such conditions can in a few individuals be the reason that dogs eat their own faeces, and when corrected (i.e. wormed and put on a balanced diet) the habit ceases. Research has shown that dogs eating their own faeces are not a health risk either to themselves, or necessarily to humans whose faces and hands they may lick. For instance, in relation to roundworm infection between dogs and man, this is always rare and does require that the worm eggs he "aged" some three weeks outside the dogs body before becoming infective. Nevertheless, coprophagia is an emotionally repulsive activity, and is probably best curbed.

Treatment
1. Meal Frequency: Since coprophagic dogs are usually hungry dogs, it is best to spread their food ration across 3-4 meals per day.

2. Fibre: A physically full stomach gives a feeling of satiety, and high fibre diets are thus superior to refined food. Accordingly, bulk the fibre content of the diet, either by feeding an existing high fibre complete dry diet, or alternatively adding fibre to the existing diet. Convenient sources of fibre are bran (scalded), shredded paper tissue, refined wood pulp or ground alfalfa meal. Addition of high-fibre vegetables such as cabbage, carrots etc. will, if eaten, also be useful.

3. Training: To defecate on command, at a place which then becomes inaccessible to the dog. Simply take your dog regularly and especially at times associated with defecation (e.g. early morning, and after meals) and wait until he defecates. Say a special word (e.g. "busy "or "hurry") and then reward with a titbit for successful defecation. Pick up the faeces and dispose. This will motivate him to only defecate in your presence.

4. Lifestyle: There is ample evidence that bored dogs in kennels are more likely to be or to become coprophagic. Accordingly, ensure there is plenty of action in your dogs life, with access to toys, frequent walks etc.

5. Repulsion: A number of preparations are available for incorporation into the diet, some based on amino acids, others simply iron tablets of the sort taken by women during pregnancy. One such brand is Fursamal, which seems to decrease the palatability of faeces subsequently passed.

6. Punishment: No amount of scolding seems to break the habit, the dog only waiting until the owner is absent before eating faeces. Punishment must be remote and seemingly related to the faeces rather than the owner. Accordingly, throw a light object (e.g. cold drink can with a couple of marbles in it - taped closed) which can be an effective discouragement for sensitive dogs.

Problem avoidance - Coprophagia is usually a passing phase in puppies, but is made more likely if puppies are denied sufficient and easy access to food. Thus, a frequent generous feeding regime of an appropriate diet should prevent the problem occurring. Your dogs lick can then be a source of pleasure!

If the problem persists contact an accredited animal behaviour consultant who will be able to advise you.


THE IMPORTANCE OF STERILISATION:

Not enough male dogs are sterilised today! There seems to be a big “hang up” about this simple medical procedure, myths and “old wives” stories abound, and usually given as reasons by owners, as why they don’t want to have their dogs “fixed”. I am also not ashamed to admit that I am actively trying to discourage people from adding to the unwanted dog over population! This simple procedure is performed under general anaesthetic by your veterinarian, on average, when your male pup is about six months of age. The most suitable family pet is either a neutered (castrated) male dog or a spayed (sterilised) bitch of the Gundog group / breeds.

In dogs, it has been scientifically proved that there is a direct link between the production of testosterone and dominant aggressive behaviour, both inter-canine (dog to dog) and human-canine (dog to human). The male dog’s level of testosterone “peaks” at about 30 months. Did you know that the profile of a typical dog who has attacked, and either mauled or killed a child is: -

PROFILE OF A DANGEROUS DOG:
“A male dog between the ages of 24 and 30 months, which has not been castrated of various working and fighting breeds.” What is even more disturbing is that a good many of these attacks are by the family pet dog! In their own home! Most of these incidents could have been avoided and even prevented!
The kind of relationship, or lack thereof, can also be added to the profile. The following profile of ignorant owners, whose pet dogs would be more likely to attack, are: -
· Dogs that have had no learning or education. A dog’s education should begin at a reputable puppy learning and socialising group from about seven weeks of age and all learning should be reward based/positive reinforcement methods of learning. Abuse and punishment have no place in animal learning. Education for a young pup and dog is vital to increase his levels of tolerance to all things, and people, as well as him learning basic manners and obedience to develop into a socially acceptable companion animal.
· Owners who keep dogs living behind solid walls with no appropriate stimulation, (visual, mental or physical).
· Yard dogs, kept as mobile security systems or defence mechanism.
· Dogs that have little or no contact with their owners and who are kept just as “Yard Dogs”.
· Dogs that have never been socialised and are kept in solitary confinement!
· Abused dogs.
· Dogs that are kept chained up for long periods of time.
· Dogs that have been extensively physically punished, and develop “defensive” fear aggression.
· Dogs who have been teased and tormented by children and develop a negative association with children.
· Untrained/partly untrained dogs that are taught “aggression” by ignorant trainers, and are triggered by an inappropriate situation. This would be considered as a “misread signal” by the dog.
· Overtly indulged dogs that are given all the privileges of leadership in the human canine pack. These “spoiled brat” dogs often take it upon themselves to make a misguided critical decision in the home. No dog can cope with the responsibility of being the leader in the human – dog pack or group. Humans should be clear decision-makers and the dog should earn all privileges.
· Dogs that are over protective, either of their environment (territory) or their owners.
· Injured or sick dogs – defensive aggression or fear/pain biters.

These kinds of dogs are potential “attack” dogs.
Unless the dog is a show animal, registered and a tip top breed champion dog with registered with the Kennel Union of Southern Africa or Federation papers, and is winning at breed and/or obedience dog shows: - NEUTER HIM!

Even a pure bred dog, (without Kennel Union registration papers) is worthless. A pure bred registered dog that has not proved himself in the ring (either breed or obedience) is also worth dramatically less than a winner! NEUTER HIM!
One male dog can father hundreds of unwanted mongrel “randomly bred” puppies a year – of which a great number will be humanly killed by welfare agencies, as there are just too many dogs to place in homes! Many of these unwanted pups end up being abused and used for many horrendous purposes, from dog fighting bait (for big money) to animal experimentation or just unloved and unwanted then dumped! NEUTER HIM!

Neutering your Male Dog is the Ethical Thing to Do!
In South Africa welfare societies humanely kill thousands of dogs each year, due to careless breeding. You do not need to add to the statistics!

ADVANTAGES OF NEUTERING A MALE DOG
Neutered dogs live longer – risks of prostate cancer are eliminated.
Neutering lowers dominant aggressive behaviour towards owners by 65%.
Neutering lowers inter-dog aggressive behaviour by some 65%
There is a reduction of straying and wandering by some 80%
There is a reduction of inappropriate urination/marking behaviour by 70%
Neutering also lowers the male dog’s urge to mount, and simulate inappropriate copulation movements by some 70%
Neutering focus’s attention and concentration.
IT IS OBVIOUS THAT THE ADVANTAGES OF NEUTERING GREATLY OUTWEIGH THE DISADVANTAGES.

DISPELLING THE NEUTERING MYTHS:
Neutered dogs put on weight!
So will you if you eat too much and don’t exercise enough!

Neutered dogs make poor watchdogs!
How can that be? As neutering focuses attention and improves concentration. Therefore in reality, a neutered male dog is less easily distracted by things that a robber would be likely to use as a distraction (like a bitch in season).

Neutering my dog will make him a wimp.
Only if he was already a wimp to start with!
Neutering does not change, and can not change your dog’s basic character!

It seems to me that the decision to keep a dog entire must of course depend on many factors,
BUT :- Unless the dog is a show animal, registered and a tip top breed dog with papers, and is winning at breed and/or obedience dog shows: -Neuter him

SPCA destroys many thousands of dogs each year due to careless breeding. You do not need to add to the statistics!
If your dog is of a fighting breed and you are expecting a baby in the near future - Neuter him
If you have any hint of aggressive or dominant behaviour – Neuter him
If you have more than one male dog of different ages and want to avoid future aggression/fighting when the lower dog reaches maturity. Neuter the lower ranking (victim) dog at an early age to avoid status aggression.

As an after thought - in closing I might add, that unlike their human counterparts, the only time that a male dog thinks of sex, is when there is a bitch in season within range without a headache! The rest of the time, the male dog is more interested in his supper!

SPAYING YOUR BITCH PUPPY:
As with neutering a male dog there are also many advantages to spaying a bitch.
The procedure is done under general anaesthetic by your veterinarian from about six months of age.
Spayed bitches and neutered dogs make the best family pets.
Unless you have a really good registered breed specimen, and are prepared to go to the length of attending and winning breed shows which takes tons of time energy, preparation and training it is definitely worth having your bitch puppy spayed:

Advantages of spaying a bitch:
· The bitch will not come into season and not be able to conceive puppies.
· You will not have to worry about hormonal changes before, during and after a season. Hormonal changes in bitches often alter normal/usual behaviour. (A kind of doggie P.M.S!)
· You will save on kennel fees, for if a bitch is in season she should be kennelled to avoid any mating accidents.
· You will not have to worry about the mess and time it takes to clean up after a bitch is in season. Discharge, bleeding etc.
· The bitch not being able to have a season makes your life a whole lot easier, you will not have the whole neighbourhood dogs camping on your doorstep, trying to mate her.
· Sterilised bitches live longer and have fewer health risks
· If your bitch is sterilised you will not have to worry about one of the neighbourhood dogs mating your bitch and creating more unwanted puppies in a world that is already over-populated with randomly bred strays, thus saving dogs lives!

Unless you have a really good registered breed specimen, and are prepared to go to the length of attending and winning breed shows, (which takes total dedication, tons of time energy, preparation and training) spay your bitch puppy. IT IS THE ETHICAL THING TO DO!

WHY NOT LET HER HAVE A LITTER FOR THECHILDREN TO HAVE THE EXPERIENCE? In a world of canine over population, to use the excuse that you want your own children to see the “miracle of birth” forget it – YOU HAVE LOST THE PLOT! Thousands of dogs and puppies are killed each year at various welfare organisations due to there being more supply than demand. Don't kid yourself that they are all street mongrels – they are not. Take a drive to your local animal welfare centre – look into the eyes of the dogs in kennels on death row and then perhaps you might re-think your ideas and values. Rather leave the breeding of dogs to the professionals who breed genetically sound animals and who breed expressly for the betterment of the breed.
IF YOU WANT THE KIDS TO EXPERIENCE THE “MIRACLE OF BIRTH” THEN RATHER BUY THEM A GOOD BOOK OR A VIDEO

Do you have any idea of the time money and effort it can take to bring a “Good” litter of puppies to the age where they can be homed!
CONSIDER: The cost of a suitable stud (male) dog to cover the bitch (can be thousands of rands!)
CONSIDER: Feed costs – pregnant and lactating bitches need to be on a special diet: Special feed is very expensive!
CONSIDER: Construction and expense of a suitable whelping area and the time involved in supervising and being on call waiting to deliver. CONSIDER: Birth costs – whelping can go horribly wrong and the bitch could need medical intervention – this really costs! CONSIDER: The bitch could die during the birth, which could leave you with lots of hungry little mouths to bottle feed, clean and stimulate toilet functions every two hours for the next six weeks or so! It should be noted that some (larger) breeds can produce up to sixteen pups in one litter!!!
CONSIDER: Behaviourally orphan pups never develop normally, due to a lack of canine maternal imprinting and non-interaction with siblings etc. CONSIDER: Orphaned pups often develop behaviour problems later on. CONSIDER: The pups could be sickly and need costly medication and veterinary fees CONSIDER: The cost of the inoculation of the litter of puppies – expensive! CONSIDER: The cost of regular de-worming of the litter of puppies – expensive! CONSIDER: The cost of special feed for puppies – expensive!
CONSIDER: If the pups are “purebred” they will need to be registered with the registration authority such as the Kennel Union of SA or the various Federations of certain breeds. A fee is applicable for each pup that is registered. Certain breeds also required tattooing before being homed – also expensive! Litters born to bitches under the age of 24 months are NOT eligible for registration.
CONSIDER: Time energy and effort involved in feeding, cleaning and training puppies. Puppies cry a lot, eat and drink and lot and they pee and pooh a lot – tons of time, effort, energy and money involved cleaning up after them – expensive!

MOST IMPORTANT OF ALL!
· CONSIDER: For medium and large breeds, at the end of the seventh week is the best time to place the puppies in their new homes. THAT IS IF THERE ARE ANY HOMES AVAILABLE!
· Who would you be able to find whom you can trust to take on one of these puppies, bearing in mind that taking on a puppy is a twelve to fifteen year commitment?
· WHAT ARE YOU GOING TO DO WHEN YOUR REALISE:-
That you are not going to be able to get rid of all the puppies and that you might be saddled with the lot! And now the puppies are suddenly not so cute any more, and are fast becoming a nuisance, destructive and messy and costing you a lot of money, time, effort and energy. ARE YOU GOING TO KEEP THE ENTIRE LITTER. Bear in mind some breeds can produce up to A DOZEN or more puppies! Or are you just going to dump them at the local SPCA when you realise that you are unable to get rid of them? ………..
· Sterilise your bitch puppy it is the ethical thing to do!
Breeding should be left to the ethical reputable professionals who breed solely for the improvement and betterment of the breed In fact my personal belief is that people should have to be licensed, in order to be permitted the privilege of breeding a litter of puppies.
A breeder should have to prove himself “Worthy” before being allowed to add to the canine population.

The breeder should be considered the “Genetic Factory” of the end product – which should be a socially acceptable dog! In many ways this is an awesome responsibility that I wish more breeders would consider.










A recent article appeared in the press regarding a young child who was mauled by a bull terrier.
Tragically the child died. This is the response from a Veterinary Animal Behaviorist::

Opinion on the bull terrier dog attacking the granddaughter

Breed characteristics
The bull terrier is the most powerful dog, weight for weight, in dogdom.
The bull terrier has been genetically selected over hundreds of years to be aggressive to the point of killing anything on the property.
The bull terrier is a fighting breed with a low threshold for tolerance and a high threshold for pain.
The bull terrier has been artificially selected to be brawn with very little brain.
The artificial breeding of the bull terrier has helped create an unpredictable temperament in many lines within the breed
The unpredictable temperament is mostly in the males of the breed and emerges anytime from 13 to 36 months
The failure to castrate a male bull terrier as a “pet” is irresponsible.
The bull terrier can never ever be “very highly trained” because they do not have the genetic mental ability for “intelligence”, reliability and stability of character
Bull terriers can be tenacious over-protective dogs for their owners
Bull terriers were designed to fight in pits and have a very short fuse for aggression
A bull terrier living behind four walls with minimal positive, meaningful stimulation will be exponentially more aggressive
According to the Dog Encyclopaedia (Dr Bruce Fogle) the Bull Terrier “was developed to produce a dog that dazzled observers in the dog-fighting pit” and “strength and tenacity to create the ultimate fighting dog” and “when it does bite, the damage is considerable, because it does not let go easily”.
How did this dog attain 40 Kg when the breed should be between 24 and 28 Kg?!

Understanding the background to the attack
1. The kids are visitors to the gran’s property and they have not had the dogs growing up with them with any form of consistency during the dog’s early socialisation and imprinting period towards humans, from 8 to 20 weeks of age
2. When Charley ran out to greet her gran, the child’s behaviour must have triggered a response in the dog.(this needs to be elucidated)
3. The response of the gran to the grandchild must have further incited the dog e.g. the child running up and screaming with excitement where after the gran lifts the child echoing her vocal and gesticulatory excitement.
4. Any dog not recognizing this human interaction as acceptable, rewarding and familiar may feel that the grandmother was threatened by the child and instinctively the dog’s fighting instincts came into play, during which endorphins are released within the brain, creating an uncontrollable, irrational yet natural onslaught. During the process the dog loses all sense of reality and is in a full attack mode using all its strength for the purpose it has been bred.
5. The raising of the child into the air gave it a height advantage which is often deemed inappropriate by dogs because newcomers and weaklings have to earn the privilege by working their way up in the linear hierarchy. In the case of the child it was given immediate high status.
6. The sudden, extreme consideration directed towards the child, by the gran, was a diversion of attention from the dog. As the dog would respond to any other animal threatening its status it would lash out in an attempt to put the usurper in its rightful position in the hierarchy. Where the “top dog” is a bull terrier and the low-ranking member is child, the latter has not got a chance of retaliation
7. The dog does not see the child as a cute human baby. A child is a noisy, reckless, undisciplined, inconsistent, attention seeking creature with body language conducive to being prey (running and screaming) to a predator (canine).
8. When the child was grabbed by the dog there must have been screaming and yelling from the grandmother’s shocked state. This incites the dog to further aggression because the grandmother is deemed to be threatened by the presence of the child. One should (albeit seem impossible) go down, call the dog to you, in a calm and pleasant manner to avoid further instigation. One needs to understand dogs to apply this BUT a bull terrier has very little capacity in responding to anything reasonable when it is in attack mode. One can equate this to a body builder on steroids and cocaine.
9. In my opinion, any parent or grandparent, who entertains the idea that an adult dog of this breed is reliable with children have only themselves to blame for their irresponsibility, ignorance and negligence.
10. If a bull terrier dog is brought in to a home at 6-8 weeks, with kids, and the puppy grows up with the same children on a daily basis it may become equally protective and dedicated towards them provided that:
(a) the puppy emanates from a reputable breeder
(b) the puppy completed a puppy socialization course from 9 to 17 weeks
(c) the puppy is not subjected to teasing, badgering, rough and tumble, tug ‘o’ war games during its impressionable period
(d) the puppy completed a basic obedience course
(e) the puppy is castrated at 6 months
(f) the puppy is never left alone with children
11. The bull terrier dog must have been made to feel so important within its home environment, by the grandmother, that it took the law into its own hands as pack leader. If dog owners are:-
(a) over-affectionate towards their dogs without purpose,
(b) allow the dogs to do what they want, when they want
(c) allow the dogs to be on the furniture
(d) allow the dogs to eat without working for it etc.,etc.
By being over-attentive and over-attached, all “high-ranking” dogs regard this behaviour as a sign of weakness meted out by the “omega” (lowest ranking) pack members.

AN ELDERLY WOMAN CAN NEVER BE MORE ASSERTIVE THAN A MALE BULL TERRIER UNLESS SHE HAS HAD YEARS OF HANDS-ON EXPERIENCE, UNDERSTANDING AND KNOWLEDGE OF CANINE BEHAVIOUR

12. The little girl’s love for her gran’s dogs is irrelevant. It is not comforting nor is it assertive behaviour from the dog’s perspective.
13. Dogs need not display any signs of aggression previously. Not all dogs warn by growling first. Do human criminals warn anyone about their intended crime before they carry it out? There is always a first time.
14. Dogs respond by instincts and not by premeditation!
15. Statistics, court cases and the media have proved that this breed is relatively untrustworthy and socially unacceptable
16. Most of it has to do with the genetic line bred by breeders of disrepute.
17. A reputable breeder will select dogs of good and reliable temperament so that they can be enjoyed as pets.


Teaching Your Dog to do Tricks
You can have fun teaching your dog simple tricks. And you can amaze your neighbours and friends.

Everything I teach uses a conditioned reinforcer -- a marker that tells the dog, "You're right!" To teach a conditioned reinforcer, select a marker word (one you don't use in ordinary conversation like "yay" or "YESS!"), use a clicker, or simply a tongue cluck. A lid from a Snapple bottle works, as would a ball-point pen clicking on and off. To teach the dog that the marker means food is coming, sit in a quiet place with a handful of dog treats. Make the sound and then feed immediately. Do this about 10 times. Then ask for a behaviour the dog knows how to do, such as sit. Command "sit" and then mark the behaviour with your special sound and feed. To be effective, you must feed every time you use the mark. It is important to be patient in teaching any new behaviour If your dog isn't doing what you want it to do, give the dog time to learn. If you become frustrated, stop training. Make your training sessions fun -- for both you and your dog.

Most dogs can be taught most of the tricks described here. Few dogs will be able to learn all of the tricks. The easiest tricks to teach are those that take advantage of a natural behaviour of the dog. Dogs that like to bark can be taught to "speak" easily; dogs that naturally extend their paws can be easily taught to "shake hands." Some dogs have good balance and can "sit up." Others lack this balance and can never do this trick no matter how hard they try.
Know your own dog -- work with it and give it a chance to learn. If the dog doesn't catch on at first, keep trying. If your dog can't do something, even though it tries, give up and move on to something else. Here are some tricks you and your dog might enjoy:

Shake hands. With your dog sitting, reach down and take hold of its right paw with your right hand and lift the paw gently. Tell your dog "Shake!" as you do it. Lift the paw until it is on the level of the dog's chest and then shake it gently just as though you were shaking hands. Praise. Repeat six times a day for a few days, then just try reaching out for the paw, but don't take it. If the dog lifts its paw, take it and shake it gently, praising. Keep up the praise. You can encourage this behaviour by holding a treat tightly cupped in your hand. Some dogs will paw at your hand. Mark the behaviour and reward. Or put a piece of tape on the bottom of your dog's foot -- the dog will probably lift a paw to get rid of the tape. Mark the behaviour as dog lifts a paw.

Wave. This is a variation of "shake hands." Wave at the dog -- be sure to use a signal that is unlike any that you use in obedience or other activities. At the same time, tell the dog, "wave." You can encourage this behaviour by gently touching the dog's paw with your right hand as you wave with your left and say, "wave."

Roll over. Make learning this trick a game. Get down on the floor with your dog and wait until it is lying on its side. Put one hand in the middle of its back, your other hand under its chest and shoulders. Tell your dog "Roll over!" and turn it gently over as you do so. When it is over, praise. Do this three or four times a day. Once the dog gets the idea, cut down on your assistance until the dog is doing it on its own. Keep up the praise. An alternative method is to lure the dog over by using food held just about an inch from its nose. Once the dog is over, give the food reward.

Sit up. Sitting up is an entirely unnatural position for a dog, so it will have to be helped at first (a few dogs can never do this). To start, sit it in a corner, facing out. Tell your dog "Sit up!" and lift it gently with your hand on dog's chest until dog is in an erect sitting position. Keep it there a few moments, then put one finger under dog's chin to help your dog keep its balance. Repeat the command, hold the dog there for a few seconds, then let it down. Praise. Repeat this six times a day until the dog will stay without your help once you have got it up. Then keep working on this trick until the dog goes up by himself. Caution: Especially at first, do not hold the dog in a sit-up position too long. It can hurt the dog's back before the muscles become accustomed to this exercise -- then the dog will become discouraged and will not want to do this trick. Do not do this with puppies.

Catch. The best time to practice this is just before mealtime when the dog is hungry. Stand close in front of your dog and toss it small bits of food, saying "Catch" as you throw them. What the dog catches it will eat. If the dog doesn't catch it, be quick and take the bits of food away so the dog isn't rewarded for the ones it misses. Before long your dog will get the idea that the more it catches, the more it gets to eat. Make it as easy as possible for the dog to catch the food you throw. You can increase the distance later. Popcorn, without salt or butter, is good for teaching this.

Say Your Prayers. Select a chair in the house for your dog to use, one heavy enough so it will not slide when the dog leans against it, and just high enough for your dog to rest its forepaws on it comfortably. Take your dog to the chair and sit the dog in front of the chair. Give the command, "Say your prayers." As you do this, lift its front feet and place them on the edge of the chair, and gently lower its chin until the chin is resting on the dog's paws. Soothe your dog with kind words as you do this, hold the dog in position a few moments, then release with much praise. As with all other tricks, it is simply a matter of repetition until the dog gets the idea and performs the trick on its own. One difficulty is placement of the head. Holding the head in a certain position is something quite foreign to dogs, and it may take many repetitions before the dog understands this particular part. Keep at it with patience and praise until your dog catches on. Obedience training in the "stay" is helpful here.

Bring the newspaper. Here tricks come into the area of usefulness because it is handy to have your dog bring the evening newspaper, your shoes, or whatever you happen to want but are too lazy or tired to get up and get yourself. Once your dog has learned the basics of getting and bringing to you any one thing, it can be taught to recognize the word for, and bring you, any number of items.
First the dog must learn the simple retrieve. Without going into the regular obedience retrieve you can get the idea across to your dog by simply playing ball.

Throw a ball and let your dog bring it back to you in play. Go on from this to throwing a stick, a rolled-up newspaper, a glove, or any item small enough for your dog to carry but large enough it won't swallow it.

When the dog is carrying things happily for you, give your dog a newspaper to carry. Give it the command, "Bring the paper" or "Fetch the paper" and encourage your dog to bring it to you. At first, you'll need to go outside with the dog to encourage it to pick up the paper and bring it in. Take the paper from the dog when it gets inside. Then give the dog lots of praise and a treat. After about 10 days or so, the dog will be getting the idea and you can stand at the door and tell it to get the paper. Whenever the dog does go out and brings back the paper, be sure to praise a lot. Note: if your dog is likely to run away when off lead, do not try this trick. When you want your dog to bring anything other than the paper, you'll have to work with the dog on each item. It won't take as long to teach, but you must be patient. At first the dog will be confused so be sure to praise. If you tell the dog "no" and act angry, it will think you're upset because it brought you something. The dog won't understand that it brought the wrong thing.

Crawl. To teach your dog to crawl, you need a chunk of its favourite food. Tell the dog to lie down. Place your left hand over but not touching his back. Hold the food in your right hand, out a foot or two in front of its face. Tell your dog "Crawl" and start moving the food away. If the dog starts to stand up, gently help it back down with your left hand and command "Crawl" again. Repeat several times a day. When the dog actually crawls, even two or three steps, give it the treat. Eventually it will get the idea that it must crawl a little way before it gets a treat.

All these tricks are easier to teach if your dog is obedience trained. How's that for a sales pitch for obedience!


QUESTION AND ANSWER SECTION:

Question: Your puppy's name is "Jake." You got him at 7 weeks of age. He knows his name, but he is starting to ignore it when he is interested in something other than you. Why is this?
Answer: It's probably because you use the name "Jake" when you talk about (but not to) Jake, after which you haven't reinforced his responses at those times. Hence... you extinguished Jake's responses to "Jake."
Solution: Give Jake a nick-name. Make it a name that you and others don't usually use in conversation around Jake.

Question: You’re 21 month old, neutered (at 11 months) male Labrador Retriever has recently begun to growl and try to attack other dogs through the fence when they come by his front yard. He is also starting to snarl at dogs and strain on the leash when other dogs approach while you are walking him in the neighbourhood. You have scolded him and slapped his rump, but it hasn't calmed him down. He seems to enjoy the walks, lifting his leg on various scent posts along the way, even after he has run out of urine. Why is he getting aggressive and overprotective of his property?
A. It's natural for his age.
B. You have done the wrong things during the walks.
C. Urinating off the property on the walks has caused him to extend his territory.
Answer: A, B and C Partly: A. Your Lab is maturing and, even though neutered, goes through periods when his territorial protective genes tell him he's more macho than when younger. B. Allowing him to become preoccupied with other dogs' urine scents primes him for defensive and aggressive behaviour when he meets them, on or off his own property. C. "The world is my toilet" is an attitude that can develop as he generalizes his territorial boundaries to those scents he leaves away from home.
For this reason, it's important to establish a habit of having your dog urinate and void his bladder BEFORE arriving at places where other dogs may be playing or working, such as at Doggy Play Parks, Obedience classes, the beach, mountains, etc., etc., etc. Later, if the exercise of activities causes him to start urinating at those locations, distract him (or her) and take him out of the area and allow him to urinate there. This helps avoid the urinary rituals that can trigger defensive/aggressive behaviour toward other dogs.

Question: The family's 10 month-old mixed-breed Golden Retriever has suddenly started growling and acting ambivalent about the 13 year old daughter, fearfully backing up while growling. He had always been affectionate and obedient with the girl. To make things a bit more confusing for the parents, the dog didn't act this way all day, every day. To treat this situation most effectively, which of the following steps is most important?
A. Recommend obedience training. B. Desensitize the dog from the reactions to the girl. C. Discover, then treat the cause(s). D. Counter-condition the dog through positive associations (food, for instance) relative to the daughter.

Answer: “C” Obviously, "Find the Cause" should be the first watchwords, and the first action taken, in analyzing all behaviour problems, even if the problem seems simple. This avoids violating the second watchwords for solving behaviour problems in all animals, even people!” DO NO HARM."

To send aggressive dogs to obedience school, desensitize them to provocative situations, or to counter-condition them, with or without food, risks creating a tragedy. The same holds true for giving the dog a drug; it merely attempts to treat the behaviour, rather than discover and treat the underlying cause. A classic example of failure to find the cause was reported recently in a leading veterinary journal. The cause for such a problem was never fully investigated, yet a treatment program was instituted which involved behaviour modification. Ultimately, the girl's mother discovered the cause. It was her daughter's acne medication! When the girl forgot to use it for several days, the dog became friendly, non-aggressive. When she started using it again, he became aggressive to her. After again stopping the medication, the dog returned to normal and was still friendly and obedient 18 months later. Moral: Changes in scent, appearance, gait, emotional states, etc., etc., may affect a family pet's behaviour.

Question: You're trying to teach your 7 month old dog not to charge out the front door ahead of you when you open it to go for a walk. If you spend a few minutes, twice in training, how long should it take before the dog can be deemed "dependably" trained not to charge ahead?
A. 1 week B. 4 weeks C. 6 weeks D. 3 months
Answer: Most professionals adhere to the principle of training with increasing distractions during a 42 (days, that is) or 6 week time span. Pavlov demonstrated this principle in training his dog's conditioned reflexes; salivation, for instance, and unconditioned reflexes; withdrawing a paw from a pin-prick or electric shock. It is interesting that tissue and bone in dogs and humans requires about seven weeks to heal. Cats heal quicker, possibly because their purring promotes speedier healing.



PET LOSS: LAST NOTE FROM THE EDITOR:
I recently have had a really bad run, on loosing some of my geriatric pets, two months ago I had to have my 35 year old horse put to sleep, then within a short period of time had to make the same sad decision with two very elderly dogs (both large breeds well into their teens) and then two weeks ago had the sad task of having my last 14 year old GSD dog Zulu put to sleep. I would like to say up front IT WAS NOT EASY! Even though I consider myself a “practical lass”, and know in my heart that I made all the right decisions, it was still very, very hard. I then got to thinking, about how lucky I was to have such wonderful people around me who understood. Family, friends, Paws students and instructors, everyone was fantastic and supportive. But what about people who don’t have the fantastic support system that I am blessed to have. After completing a course many years ago in grief counselling, I have decided to put together some material to be made available to people who are not in such a fortunate position as I was. Following is the first of several articles that I think could be of help, to people suffering after the tragic loss of a much loved pet:

Ten Tips on Coping with Pet Loss (by Moira Anderson Allen, M.Ed).
Anyone who considers a pet a beloved friend, companion, or family member knows the intense pain that accompanies the loss of that friend.
The following are some tips on coping with that grief, and with the difficult decisions one faces upon the loss of a pet.

1. Am I crazy to hurt so much? Intense grief over the loss of a pet is normal and natural. Don't let anyone tell you that it's silly, crazy, or overly sentimental to grieve! During the years you spent with your pet (even if they were few), it became a significant and constant part of your life. It was a source of comfort and companionship, of unconditional love and acceptance, of fun and joy. So don't be surprised if you feel devastated by the loss of such a relationship. People who don't understand the pet/owner bond may not understand your pain. All that matters, however, is how you feel. Don't let others dictate your feelings: They are valid, and may be extremely painful. But remember, you are not alone: Thousands of pet owners have gone through the same feelings.

2. What Can I Expect to Feel? Different people experience grief in different ways. Besides your sorrow and loss, you may also experience the following emotions: Guilt may occur if you feel responsible for your pet's death-the "if only I had been more careful" syndrome. It is pointless and often erroneous to burden yourself with guilt for the accident or illness that claimed your pet's life, and only makes it more difficult to resolve your grief.

Denial makes it difficult to accept that your pet is really gone. It's hard to imagine that your pet won't greet you when you come home, or that it doesn't need its evening meal. Some pet owners carry this to extremes, and fear their pet is still alive and suffering somewhere. Others find it hard to get a new pet for fear of being "disloyal" to the old. Anger may be directed at the illness that killed your pet, the driver of the speeding car, the veterinarian who "failed" to save its life. Sometimes it is justified, but when carried to extremes, it distracts you from the important task of resolving your grief. Depression is a natural consequence of grief, but can leave you powerless to cope with your feelings. Extreme depression robs you of motivation and energy, causing you to dwell upon your sorrow.

3. What can I do about my feelings? The most important step you can take is to be honest about your feelings. Don't deny your pain, or your feelings of anger and guilt. Only by examining and coming to terms with your feelings can you begin to work through them.
You have a right to feel pain and grief! Someone you loved has died, and you feel alone and bereaved. You have a right to feel anger and guilt, as well. Acknowledge your feelings first, then ask yourself whether the circumstances actually justify them. Locking away grief doesn't make it go away. Express it. Cry, scream, pound the floor, talk it out. Do what helps you the most. Don't try to avoid grief by not thinking about your pet; instead, reminisce about the good times. This will help you understand what your pet's loss actually means to you.
Some find it helpful to express their feelings and memories in poems, stories, or letters to the pet. Other strategies including rearranging your schedule to fill in the times you would have spent with your pet; preparing a memorial such as a photo collage; and talking to others about your loss.
4. Who can I talk to? If your family or friends love pets, they'll understand what you're going through. Don't hide your feelings in a misguided effort to appear strong and calm! Working through your feelings with another person is one of the best ways to put them in perspective and find ways to handle them. Find someone you can talk to about how much the pet meant to you and how much you miss it-someone you feel comfortable crying and grieving with. If you don't have family or friends who understand, or if you need more help, ask your veterinarian or humane association to recommend a pet loss counsellor or support group. Check with your church or hospital for grief counselling. Remember, your grief is genuine and deserving of support.

5. When is the right time to euthanase a pet? Your veterinarian is the best judge of your pet's physical condition; however, you are the best judge of the quality of your pet's daily life. If a pet has a good appetite, responds to attention, seeks its owner's company, and participates in play or family life, many owners feel that this is not the time. However, if a pet is in constant pain, undergoing difficult and stressful treatments that aren't helping greatly, unresponsive to affection, unaware of its surroundings, and uninterested in life, a caring pet owner will probably choose to end the beloved companion's suffering. Evaluate your pet's health honestly and unselfishly with your veterinarian. Prolonging a pet's suffering in order to prevent your own ultimately helps neither of you. Nothing can make this decision an easy or painless one, but it is truly the final act of love that you can make for your pet.

6. Should I stay during euthanasia? Many feel this is the ultimate gesture of love and comfort you can offer your pet. Some feel relief and comfort themselves by staying: They were able to see that their pet passed peacefully and without pain, and that it was truly gone. For many, not witnessing the death (and not seeing the body) makes it more difficult to accept that the pet is really gone. However, this can be traumatic, and you must ask yourself honestly whether you will be able to handle it. Uncontrolled emotions and tears-though natural-are likely to upset your pet. Some clinics are more open than others to allowing the owner to stay during euthanasia. Some veterinarians are also willing to euthanasia a pet at home. Others have come to an owner's car to administer the injection. Again, consider what will be least traumatic for you and your pet, and discuss your desires and concerns with your veterinarian. If your clinic is not able to accommodate your wishes, request a referral.

7. What do I do next? When a pet dies, you must choose how to handle its remains.
Sometimes, in the midst of grief, it may seem easiest to leave the pet at the clinic for disposal. Check with your clinic to find out whether there is a fee for such disposal. Some shelters also accept such remains, though many If you prefer a more formal option, several are available. Home burial is a popular choice, if you have sufficient property for it. It is economical and enables you to design your own funeral ceremony at little cost. However, city regulations usually prohibit pet burials, and this is not a good choice for renters or people who move frequently. Check with your veterinarian, pet shop, or phone directory for options available in your area. Consider your living situation, personal and religious values, finances, and future plans when making your decision. It's also wise to make such plans in advance, rather than hurriedly in the midst of grief.

8. What should I tell my children? You are the best judge of how much information your children can handle about death and the loss of their pet. Don't underestimate them, however. You may find that, by being honest with them about your pet's loss, you may be able to address some fears and misperceptions they have about death. Honesty is important. If you say the pet was "put to sleep," make sure your children understand the difference between death and ordinary sleep. Never say the pet "went away," or your child may wonder what he or she did to make it leave, and wait in anguish for its return. That also makes it harder for a child to accept a new pet. Make it clear that the pet will not come back, but that it is happy and free of pain.

Never assume a child is too young or too old to grieve. Never criticize a child for tears, or tell them to "be strong" or not to feel sad. Be honest about your own sorrow; don't try to hide it, or children may feel required to hide their grief as well. Discuss the issue with the entire family, and give everyone a chance to work through their grief at their own pace.

9. Will my other pets grieve? Pets observe every change in a household, and are bound to notice the absence of a companion. Pets often form strong attachments to one another, and the survivor of such a pair may seem to grieve for its companion. Cats grieve for dogs, and dogs for cats. You may need to give your surviving pets a lot of extra attention and love to help them through this period.
Remember that, if you are going to introduce a new pet, your surviving pets may not accept the newcomer right away, but new bonds will grow in time. Meanwhile, the love of your surviving pets can be wonderfully healing for your own grief.

10. Should I get a new pet right away? Generally, the answer is no. One needs time to work through grief and loss before attempting to build a relationship with a new pet. If your emotions are still in turmoil, you may resent a new pet for trying to "take the place" of the old-for what you really want is your old pet back. Children in particular may feel that loving a new pet is "disloyal" to the previous pet.

When you do get a new pet, avoid getting a "look-alike" pet, which makes comparisons all the more likely. Don't expect your new pet to be "just like" the one you lost, but allow it to develop its own personality. Never give a new pet the same name or nickname as the old. Avoid the temptation to compare the new pet to the old one: It can be hard to remember that your beloved companion also caused a few problems when it was young!

A new pet should be acquired because you are ready to move forward and build a new relationship-rather than looking backward and mourning your loss. When you are ready, select an animal with whom you can build another long, loving relationship-because this is what having a pet is all about!




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QUESTION – HOW MANY DOGS DOES IT TAKE TO CHANGE A LIGHT BULB?
1. The Golden Retriever: The sun is shining, the day is young, we've got our whole lives ahead of us, and you're inside worrying about a stupid
burned out bulb?

2. The Border Collie: Just one. And then I'll replace any wiring that's not up to code.

3. The Dachshund: You know I can't reach that stupid lamp!

4. The Rottweiler: Make me.

5. The Boxer: Who cares? I can still play with my squeaky toys in the dark.

6. The Labrador Retriever: Oh, me, me!!!!! Pleeeeeeeeeze let me change the light bulb! Can I? Can I? Huh? Huh? Huh? Can I? Pleeeeeeeeeze, please, please, please!

7. The German Shepherd: I'll change it as soon as I've led these people from the dark, check to make sure I haven't missed any, and make just one
more perimeter patrol to see that no one has tried to take advantage of the situation.

8. The Jack Russell Terrier: I'll just pop it in while I'm bouncing off the walls and furniture.

9. The Old English Sheep Dog: Light bulb? I'm sorry, but I don't see a light bulb!

10. The Cocker Spaniel: Why change it? I can still pee on the carpet in the dark.

11. The Chihuahua: Yo quiero Taco Bulb. Or "We don't need no stinking light bulb."

12. The Greyhound: It isn't moving. Who cares?

13. The Australian Shepherd: First, I'll put all the light bulbs in a little circle........

14. The French Poodle: I’ll just ask the Border Collie and he'll do it. By the time he finishes rewiring the house, my nails will be dry.

QUESTION?
How many cats does it take to change a light bulb?
Silly thing! - Cats do not change light bulbs. People change light bulbs. So, the real question is: "How long will it be before I can expect some light, some dinner, and a massage?" ALL OF WHICH PROVES, ONCE AGAIN, THAT WHILE DOGS HAVE MASTERS, CATS HAVE STAFF!


“PAWS ABILITIES” BEHAVIOUR & LEARNING CENTRE:
Experienced Instructors under the direct supervision of accredited animal behaviour consultant
Pleasant rural environment: Safe fenced off grounds: Safe parking: Toilet facilities: Training equipment treats/toys on sale:
Puppy learning groups (from 7 weeks of age): Dog training for all ages / breeds: Show and domestic obedience classes: Private tuition on request:

Does your pet exhibit any of the following negative behaviours?
Digging; Chewing; Destructive behaviours; Inappropriate Toileting; Anxiety; Fears & Phobia’s; Sound Sensitivity; Disobedience; Hyperactivity ADD; Excessive Barking / Howling; Incompatibilities; Aggression; Fighting; and more:-

HELP IS NOW AT HAND!
Contact Louise to book a private confidential behaviour consultation (by appointment only) at (011) 969-4467
Louise Thompson: Accredited Animal Behaviour Consultant
Accredited with the Animal Behaviour Consultants of Southern Africa (©®™)
All Accredited Animal Behaviour Consultants are strictly bound by the ABC of SA Code of Ethics & full Constitution: