Paws News January 2006

PAWS ABILITIES NEWSLETTER NUMBER 5 –JANUARY 2006:

A warm welcome to all students, clients and friends. I would like to take this opportunity to wish you all a wonderful New Year and hope that 2006 brings you everything you ever dreamed of!

PAWS FOR PEOPLE THERAPY DOGS:
Paws for People held their East Rand evaluations here at Paws Abilities on the 15th January. There was a super turn out and several of our own students were evaluated. The standard was extremely high and I am very proud to inform you that ALL PASSED WITH FLYING COLOURS!

Thanks to Angie Thornton (Su Mi’s Mommy) their group leader, and her helpers – for all their hard work in preparing for the day, (and providing wonderful eats!) and I must just take this opportunity to sing the praises of Lesley De Klerk, (who runs the association) for her total dedication and the wonderful job that she does. “Paws for People” brings such joy to so many people – they make such a difference to many lonely and ill individuals.

The test is really tough, the initial section is a basic good citizen test, followed by a question section to evaluate handlers – who have to be very special people indeed! This is followed by some situation “role playing” – dogs put in positions that no domestic pets would ever had to cope with. I must tell you that all our dogs were absolutely fantastic. We have some amazing dogs here at the school. They all coped so well and were fantastic ambassadors for our own school! Well done to you all and congratulations and good luck with your supervised visits.


ARE YOU THE LEADER OF YOUR PACK?
Copyright: David Appleby 1999

You used to hear people suck on their teeth, like car mechanics do when they are about to tell you the bad news, and say "that's a dominant dog" as if the owner's cherished pet had popped out of the womb that way. Whatever a dog's physical capacity to become high ranking within a given group a sense of its ability to achieve it has to be learnt. This is developed by observing the signals from, and remembering the outcome of interactions with, other members of the group.

There are many variables in each dog to dog and dog to person relationship. In fact the situation can change from one scenario to another. Imagine for a moment that you are a dog walking towards another. It has got food. Do you want to go spoiling for a fight?

There are three things to consider.
What has been your previous relationship with this dog, have you or it been pushover or are the honours even?

Is the prize worth having? There may be a big difference between its desire to guard, and your desire to get, a chocolate bar and a bowl of cold porridge, but this depends upon how you feel about cold porridge.

Are you going to get hurt? Even if the other dog has lost to you in the past, it is in possession of the item. So even if you are top dog it may just not be worth the effort. If you think you can win, you really want the item and you have nothing to loose go-ahead and take it. If you are right, the other dog will predict it will come off worse if it challenges you and will give way.

The Problem
The signals dogs get from other pack members tend to be genuine and, although subtle, unambiguous. However, within the family, the dog’s adoptive pack, the wrong signals are sometimes given which results in faulty learning and relationship problems. Think of the example above and ask yourself if you are a dog with a bone will you give it to another dog? If you do, is that dog more or less likely to think you are weaker than it is. If it thinks you are weaker, is it more likely to throw its weight around or challenge you in other situations? Now let us put the questions in a family context. If you are wandering about the house with a piece of toast and you break some off and give it to your dog, is it going to see you as a stronger member of the pack or a weaker one? If the answer is weaker, is your dog more or less likely to challenge you in other situations?

Applying Rules
You can apply rules in their literal sense or you can adopt a policy of making it clear to your dog that you are in control by telling it to comply with a request first so that it "earns" the resource, egg. you may tell it to sit before you stroke it if it is seeking attention. These variations on a theme are not contradictory because the application of the rules is on a sliding scale. How you impose them is dependent upon what seems necessary, which you can only judge from your dog’s behaviour. Prior to maturity however, dogs will not necessarily show the consequences of receiving the wrong signals from the group it lives with. Whatever your dog’s age, if a rule does not seem very important to it concentrate oneness that are.


WHY DOES MY DOG?
by Stan Rawlinson.

I cannot tell you how many times people have said to me that their Dog thinks it is human and I always give the same answer “No it doesn’t it thinks you’re a dog”. If we could teach a dog to draw and give the concept of a “God” it would draw “God” as a dog. Many so-called dog trainers and countless owners have a mistaken perception of what really constitutes a dog, and often have expectations far above the animal’s actual ability.

Some people imagine that their dogs are little people in fur coats, and that their pets are able to understand complex thought patterns, and comprehend our moral and ethical codes; they assume a dog’s level of understanding is on a par with our own. Animals work on drive levels and instinct.
It is vital to keep in mind that they do not have the capacity to comprehend the complex thought processes that bring us to understand human emotions, language, and behaviour.

There is a scientific name for this “Anthropomorphism”: The textbook definition of anthropomorphism is “to assign emotions or thought patterns to animals or objects, which are incapable of achieving such dimensions”. This is like explaining that a vine climbs up the tree to get a better view of the garden.
How often have you blamed your computer for being bloody-minded and awkward?

I believe that anthropomorphism is one of the main reasons we find immense difficulty communicating successfully with our pets. So why do we do it? Humans always find it easier to relate to something when they see their own emotions and thought patterns into the actions of their animals. Using the vine illustration, this is an example of projection. Projection is a psychological phenomenon in which one projects their feelings upon others, animals, or objects. This is useful in everyday life for it takes the guesswork out of reality. Instead of constantly contemplating why something is as it is, you simply put it into context with how you think, and your everyday life.

Dogs are capable of linking ideas together, but are totally incapable of linking actions that are separated by time. If for example, a dog makes a mess on the floor during your absence, there is no point in telling the dog off or rubbing its nose in it, which to my mind is barbaric, you wouldn’t rub a child’s nose in a soiled nappy? And even if you did, what learning process would the child get?

The dog’s brain cannot link the action with any passage of time. So many people say, “He knows he has done wrong” or “He looks as guilty as hell”. NO HE DOESN’T, he looks submissive because he can read every nuance of your body language and is aware you are annoyed, but not why?. This is because their brains are not formulated to feel guilt, as we perceive it.

A dog’s brain is much smaller than a human, especially in the upper part of the brain called the cerebrum - the portion of the brain associated with intellectual functions such as speech, memory, consciousness, and logical and emotional thought. They cannot understand human language. It is far more important to use sound patterns, intonation, facial and body language as a form of communication. A dog wants to please and all learning should be based on positive reinforcement. We should be aware that a large part of a dog’s brain is occupied with sensory activity, particularly the interpretation of scent.

Instinct?
Dogs natural instinct plays a vital role and often it is difficult to understand why so few dog owners cannot differentiate between instinct and intelligence. Instinct is an urge from within. Instinct makes a dog act in a certain way and has no connection with intelligence. Dogs first instinct is to survive, when a pup is born he squirms about until he finds a teat and then sucks it. This does not require intelligence or a learning process it is purely instinctual. The maternal instinct tells the female to clean up the foetal membrane, and in the first 3 or 4 weeks to also eat the pup’s faeces this is to keep the nest clean and dry and to stop predators locating the and killing the pups.

Of course, we know that no predators are going to attack the litter, but try explaining that to the mother? She is not taught these actions, she has not seen another female do it except when she was so young as to be unable to assimilate this action, It is clearly instinct. Most instincts provide pleasure to the dog, and because it associates the action with pleasure, the instinct grows stronger with usage.


This is the basis of all training to harness your pet’s instincts and shape it’s behaviour patterns, so that it is acceptable to what we perceive as our expectations.

Instinct can be strengthened, weakened or even diverted. However, if an instinct is not present in the first place it cannot be added, and it cannot be taken away. It might lie dormant, but once developed it can never be weakened. A dog with an obsession for chasing cyclists can be controlled by shaping its behaviour, obedience training and by providing alternative outlets for its energy. The same if a dog is corrected the first time he chases another dog or a jogger it may give up the idea, but if it is allowed to chase joggers or dogs then this instinct becomes much stronger and can then become a problem behaviour that is difficult or even impossible to cure.

Basic Training
To start to teach your dog your language, you need to combine the words with an action that shows the dog what you want, and some reinforcement - either positive or negative. Say your dog’s name.
Does the dog respond (look at you, wag his tail, and move toward you)? Your dog should ALWAYS have a pleasant experience when he hears his name - NEVER unpleasant. Some people create a new “Bad Dog” name to use for those bad dog times. To teach the dog his name, position your dog close enough to touch, preferably on a leash so he does not move away. Say the dogs name cheerfully and give his ear or leash a tug toward you, or move his muzzle in your direction. When the dog looks in your direction, immediately use your “Good Dog” voice and praise and stroke your dog on the head or chest and start by giving your dog a treat, practice this until looking at you happens without the tug or treat, continue to practice for the dog’s entire life! It reinforces the communication link between the owner and pet.

Teach other words the same way. Simple one-word commands work best. Say the dog’s name (to get his attention - remember that communication link!), follow with a command, and then SHOW him what you want. PRAISE IMMEDIATELY when the action is completed - even if you MADE him do it! Eventually you dog will learn to respond to the command without needing to be shown - but you should never forget to praise.

Sometimes words are not enough when communicating with a dog. Since dogs must learn what each word means, all the other “extra” words are just a bunch of “Blah, Blah” to them! Remember the Gary Larson cartoon that shows an owner scolding his dog, Ginger, then shows what the dog hears “Ginger, blah, blah, blah, Ginger, blah...”

The word NO, is used far too often and actually means very little to a dog, it is better to use specific words. Keep them short, do not use words like “sit down”, it can confuse, use either “sit” or “down” depending on what you wish to convey.














CANINE BODY POSTURE’S

Active Submission


Most behaviour problems stem from an inability to comprehend the basics of canine communication. Most people (unfairly) attribute human feelings and emotions to dogs, (anthromorphismn) which can often result in confusion, stress and anxiety-related behaviour problems. A prime example of this is the following scenario:- The owner pops out of the room for a few minutes (let’ say to answer the phone,) and leaves a nice tasty roast beef sandwich unattended, on the coffee table. Fido (being a natural opportunist) seizes the moment and has a yummy snack! The owner returns to finish their lunch – and “Hey – you bad dog you ate my sandwich!!!” usually accompanied with a face like thunder, pretty aggressive human body posture, and lots of finger pointing and wagging! Fido interprets this as the higher ranking animal in the pack (his owner) displaying status! So in order to avoid any possible conflict HE DISPLAY’S ACTIVE SUBMISSIVE BEHAVIOUR, PURELY IN ORDER TO AVOID CONFLICT (see overleaf!)

The owner – who is really ticked off at loosing his/her, then takes this interaction one step further, and physically chastises the dog, which would more than likely lead to the next step of submission.

Passive Submission


If the message was perhaps, not received loud and clear on initial contact or perhaps in an inter-species interaction (especially human/canine interaction) – it is reinforced by the next step of submission. Again the dog performs this behaviour / response, very wisely in order to avoid conflict, and often if unheeded is followed through with yet another stage of submission - submissive urination




Offensive (agonistic/aggressive) Body Posture


This posture is generally displayed by a more confident animal – sometimes associated with territorial status and or possessions and/or resources. Again the message is pretty clear. “I am in control – this belongs to me – this is my patch, bed toy etc…”


Defensive (agonistic/aggressive) Body Posture


Of the agonistic behaviours – this one is by far, the one that should be taken seriously! Often results in panic, or fear-biting. This dog could be saying “I don’t have the skills to deal with this situation, please back off, you are not giving me any choice – if you do not back off (cease, desist etc) I am going to have to bite. The dog basically has not learnt any alternative or compensating behaviour to perform in this situation!
This posture could be associated with genetics, imprinting from dam, lack of socialisation, lack of canine education, isolation - confinement stress, negative reinforcement of behaviour, and/or abuse. Defensive fear may be due to a number of reasons and combinations of causes, This kind of dog should not be put under pressure, and will bite if provoked or cornered.





Stress and Anxious Body Posture


This body posture again is a potential fear biter – due to panic. Care needs to be taken when this posture and accompanying physical symptoms are displayed. A dog or puppy displaying the above should not be permitted to join in a puppy learning or dog training class, until the stress issues have been resolved. It may be necessary to seek the assistance of an accredited Animal Behaviour Consultant. Depending on the severity of the anxiety issues, drug therapy, (under the guidance of a veterinarian) in conjunction with behaviour modification therapy may also be indicated.

Relaxed Body Posture


This chap above is clearly not a problem and can be approached with no concerns.











Alert Body Posture


This is the typical “I’m on duty” kind of body posture.

This dog is aware of his surroundings and ready for all possibilities and any action …….



Play Bow – An Invitation to Play!


Play bow – invitation to play
Again a wonderful way in which nature leaves little to chance!

The invitation to play, could not possibly be misinterpreted by other pack members, it reduces aggression, tension and other potential conflict situations in the pack.


Question:
Why do some dogs urinate on their owners?

A. Because they dislike them.
B. Because they want to "dominate" them.
C. Because they feel "insecure" about their relationship with them.
D. Because they "love" them.


Answer: C (and usually D)
Feelings of insecurity in dogs, and many cats, about their "people" stimulates what is often called "social urine marking" so as to set it apart from pure territorial marking. However, many dogs and cats will spray on strangers who enter their social group or territory: Take it from one behaviour consultant who has "been there." Dogs who have done this are not necessarily aggressively dangerous; they are usually insecure and socially "bossy" with their owners and strangers.

Peeing exclusively on the owner indicates the dog wants to lay claim to someone about whom he or she needs to feel more secure. Once this security is provided, usually through a differential diagnosis and a well-designed and faithfully executed leadership program for the owner(s), the problem simply goes away.

Question:
A retired couple moved to a rural area during the summer, where most homes enjoyed at least 2 acres of property. They two neutered male cats, 4 and 7 years of age, who always lived and played happily together, suddenly started fighting in the middle of the night. What should you look for as possible causes?

A. The new cat food you started feeding them?
B. The neighbour’s dogs, who often bark at night?
C. Roaming neighbourhood cats?

Answer:
C. The neighbourhood dogs are probably barking at the neighbourhood stray cats who, according to their kind, are nocturnal creatures out looking for food or are toms in search of a stray female.

As for A., cats rarely become aggressive with each other over changes in diet. So, the first step is to keep the drapes and blinds closed at night. Second; cat-proof your property against strays. Spraying an animal repellent on outdoor winder panes and planter boxes, deck and porch rails and stairs would also be a winner.


You have a male, 75 lb. German Shepherd-Labrador Retriever, 11 months old, who was neutered at 6 months of age. He has always been very active, enjoying the evening on-leash walks with you nearly every day of the week. He loves to play fetch and retrieve happily and dependably. Besides a bout with roundworms as a 9-week-old, his health seems excellent. However, when out on the walks for the last two weeks, he has started stopping and resisting walking more than about

Two blocks, about a third of your normal walking distance. This started three weeks ago. You got a choke chain collar, but it didn't help, so you're back to using your flat buckle collar.

Question: What kind of help should you seek to overcome the problem?
A. Ask your veterinarian.
B. Call a dog trainer.
C. Find a behaviour consultant.
D. Get a shock collar.



Answer:
A. Your veterinarian must examine your dog first. This avoids the danger of trying to "train" him to ignore his pain in order to overcome reluctance on the walks. Since 1967, we have found the majority of this type of complaint involves pain; pain from physical problems ranging from pancreatitis to hip dysplasia to spinal misalignments and injuries to pastern sprains... and many other conditions in between. When any of these have been discovered, then treated effectively, the balky-doggedness has resolved itself.


TIPS FOR PERFORMING HOMEWORK:
NEVER practice with your dog after a bad day at the office, if you are tired or in a bad mood! Make sure that each interaction is fun and rewarding, for both you and your dog. Try to practise in a different location each day, facing a different direction, in different environments, at different times and in different weather conditions, to make sure that your dog learns to obey under all conditions and locations.
Put into practise the exercises that you have learnt in class, into your daily routines. You do not have to set aside time for “formal” homework. Make it fit into your lifestyle!
There is no excuse for not performing homework! You can practice “Stays’ “Retrieves”, “Recalls” and straight “Sits”, whilst you are sitting in a chair watching your favourite soapy on the TV. Only practise for a few minutes at a time. Rather perform 3 short practice sessions of a couple of minutes each, than one long boring hour long session.
Quit while you are ahead! If the dog has successfully performed an exercise – don’t repeat it again. Not only are you going to bore your dog to pieces and end up a “nag”, but if the handler makes a mistake, (which is more likely than the dog making a mistake) then you will have to repeat the exercise perfectly (putting the dog under pressure) until you BOTH get it right. It has been proved that, one perfect “Retrieve” is worth 20 bad ones! Two minutes perfect “Heelwork” is worth hours of sloppy turns! One perfect recall with a “Straight Sit” is worth a dozen recalls with crooked sits.
Bit by bit get your dog used to working with distractions. Start with mild, slight distractions and over a period of time work up to something a bit more substantial, with louder noises and more physical activities. If at any time the dog regresses – go back to the level where he was competent. Stay at that level for a while and only then progress to more difficult work.


BASIC COMMANDS:
Exercise
Instructors command to handler
Handlers command to dog
Watch

Dog’s name – Watch
Sit
All dogs sitting
Dog’s name – Sit
Down
Put your dog into the down
Dog’s name – Down
Stand
Put your dog into the stand
Dog’s name – Stand
Heelwork
Handler and dog forward
Dog’s name - Heel
Right turn
Right turn
Dog’s name – Heel
Left turn
Left turn
Dog’s name – In
About turn
About turn
Dog’s name – Heel
Halt
Halt
Dog’s name – Sit
Recall on the move
Recall on the move
Dog’s name – Come in
Recall to the front
Prepare your dog for a recall to the front:
Call your dog in
Dog’s name - Wait
Dog’s name – Come in
Recall to heel
Prepare your dog for a recall to the heel position
Call your dog / recall to the heel position
Dog’s name – Wait

Dog’s name – Heel
Sit stay
Prepare your dog for a sit stay.
Last command
Leave your dog

Halt and about turn.
Dog’s name – Wait
Dog’s name – Wait
No command – leave the dog with your right foot.
Stop on instructors command, step back with your right foot to turn and face the dog.
Down stay
Prepare your dog for a down stay.
Last command
Leave your dog

Halt
About turn
Dog’s name – Wait
Dog’s name – Wait
No command – step off with your right foot.
Stop on instructors command
Step back with your right foot to turn and face the dog
Stationary heelwork
At the halt/or stationary
Right turn
Left turn
About turn

Dog’s name – Heel
Dog’s name – In
Dog’s name – Heel


Retrieve
Handler, are you ready?

Throw the article / dumbbell

Send your dog


Remove the article
Finish
Wait for the instructors command. (lower levels may command – Dog’s name – Wait)
Dog’s name – Fetch/Hold
Dog’s name – Come In
Dog’s name – Sit
Dog’s name – Leave
Dog’s name - Heel
On completion of any exercise
Exercise over
Praise and release the dog (backwards)
Praise the dog in the stated position, then showing excitement and pleasure skip backwards a couple of steps and then release and praise/treat.
Distance control
Hand signals are used by the instructor
Initially both verbal and hand signal commands are used.
Sit
Down
Stand
All positions are performed in random order



Send Away
Prepare your dog for a send away – set the dog up and give him/her direction.
Send your dog





Recall your dog
Dog placed in the correct position and given direction.
Dog’s name – Away
The dog will move forward at a speed in a straight line until the handler “downs” the dog (handler only will see the marker)
Handler will recall the dog to the instructed position.
Dogs name – Come in or
Dogs name - Heel
Scent discrimination
Prepare your dog for scent discrimination.
Show him the cloth
Remove the cloth
Send your dog










Take the cloth
Exercise over
Let the dog sniff the cloth
Return the cloth to the instructor
Dog’s name – Seek
The dog must then go to where the clothes are placed, find the correct cloth, pick it up and return it to the handler, present with a straight sit in front of the handler and continue to hold the cloth until told by the instructor that the cloth must be taken from the dog.
Dog’s name “Leave”
Praise and release the dog.



NON FORMAL COMMANDS:
Do not use formal commands for non-formal interactions!
I have used the some of the following examples for multiple dog households, where the dogs are taught that certain commands which apply to the whole group. For single dog households, simply use the commands in the singular.

To get the dog/s to go into the kitchen
Dog’s name / All dogs - kitchen
To get the dog/s to go into the car
Dog’s name / All dogs - car
To get the dog/s to go outside
Dog’s name / All dogs - out
To get the dog/s to toilet on command
Dog’s name – Go / All dogs / busy
To get the dog/s to come / or accompany you / or just to stay near you (non-formal) when off leash on a walk in the park
Dog’s name / All dogs lets go
Comm’on guys – lets go!
To get the dog/s into his crate
Dog’s name / Go crate
To get the dog/s to release an object
Dog’s name / Leave it
To get the dog/s to go to his bed/basket
Dog’s name / Go to bed
To get the dog/s to move out of your way
Dog’s name / Get back
When letting him off his leash in a safe park / play area
OK or Free

RETRIEVE TRAINING:
One of the exercises that many dogs appear to have problems learning is the retrieve, or fetch exercise. The cause of this problem often stems from an early age, when the pup may have been scolded or punished, (especially in the early sensitive stages of puppy development) for stealing, bolting, or running away with shoes etc, or other household objects). The pup thus learns to associate picking things up, with punishment, as he associates the concept of retrieve with a negative experience. If puppies are taught from an early age that it is rewarding to pick things up, and then actively encouraged to bring objects to his/her owner, this negative association is avoided, and the problem never develops!

THE RETRIEVE EXERCISE:
The eventual aim of the exercise is to achieve a full retrieve, with the dog under full control, with full obedience and compliance, as follows:

1. The dog is sitting (off leash) in the “Heel” position on the Handler’s left hand side. The Steward or Instructor will ask the Handler “Handler, are you ready?”
2. If ready, the Handler then instructs the dog to “Wait. The dog is not permitted to move unless given the command by the Handler.
3. On the Steward or Instructors instruction” Handler throw your article” the dumbbell is thrown (by the Handler) forward for about 8 – 15 meters. The dog is not permitted to move until instructed by his Handler.
4. On instruction from the Steward or Instructor “Send your dog” the dog is given the command “Fetch” by the Handler. On command the dog moves forward and picks up the dumbbell, quickly turning round and bringing it immediately back to the Handler, and “Presents,” with the dumbbell in his mouth. This means he performs a “Recall” carrying the dumbbell in his mouth, and sits straight in front of the Handler (facing the Handler.)
5. The dog must continue to hold the dumbbell in his mouth until the steward gives the handler the instruction “Take/remove the article” The Handler, then may give the dog the “Leave” command and remove the dumbbell from the dogs mouth, (the dog should release willingly)The dog must continue to sit straight, in the frontal position and awaits the “Finish” command.
6. On the stewards instruction “Finish” the handler may then give the “Heel” command and the dog brought around to the working heel side, (the Handlers left hand side) and complete the exercise in the sit position. The instructor / steward will then inform the handler that the exercise is over and the dog may then be praised and released.
7. All “sits” must be straight – in a show ring points will be deducted for crocked sits.

NOTE: For easy reference all the retrieve objects are referred to as “The Dummy”. In early learning stages, and in the lower show classes, “The Dummy”, can be a favourite toy, a dumbbell a piece of wooden doweling, or any object of your preference

RULES TO ENSURE A HAPPY RETRIEVE:
· Never practise or train your dog when you are in a bad mood, or if you have had a bad day at the office!
· Never practise or work your dog if he appears to be off colour or ill.
· Keep in mind the breed characteristics of each individual breed (inherited genetics) and you must realise that some breeds and indeed some individuals, take longer to learn than others.
· All learning should be FUN – both for dog and owner!
· All learning should be based on the concept of positive reinforcement, or reward based methods of learning.
· Abuse and/or abusive methods of leaning have no place in dog training.
· Always be consistent, calm and confident. The need for consistency in both attitude, voice, commands, and body language it imperative if you want to obtain positive results.
· Never chastise or punish a dog/puppy for picking up anything in his mouth. If the dog/puppy has something “undesirable” in his mouth, you can do a “trade” (for a valuable object or treat).
· Your voice is your most important training tool, so use it – especially for encouragement, affirmation and reassurance! The dog’s sense of hearing in some breeds is at least THREE TIMES GREATER THAN YOURS! So volume is unnecessary, rather use a soft excited tone than an intimidating booming voice!
· Always retain your sense of humour!
· Keep all learning sessions’ fun, short and light!
· Make sure that all training sessions are gentle and kind.
· Always end the practise session on a good note and if possible after a success!
· Quit when you are ahead!!!!! Unless following a programme such as the “inducive retrieve” programme, keep the sessions short, and always end on a note of success!
· If the dog has performed an exercise correctly the first time, DO NOT REPEAT THE EXERCISE, or the second time he (or you) might make a mistake, and then you will have to repair the damage done by the mistake – QUIT WHEN YOU ARE AHEAD!


· DON’T chase your dog to get the dummy (or anything else he has in his mouth) Four legs are much faster than two, and you do not want the dog to learn this fact, or he will learn (much to his owners frustration!) a fun game called “Hit and Run!” Rather teach him to “trade” for either a valuable alternative toy, or a food treat!

· DON’T play tug o war with the retrieve dummy. The idea is to fetch the dummy, not to fight over it! Keep games separate, and different to the formal “retrieve” exercise (dogs get confused by us very easily!). Instead of teaching the dog to use his strength against you in games of conflict - rather find games that encourage co-operation and control.

· DON’T ever fake throwing the dummy. It may be funny to watch the dog search for an imaginary dummy, but you will not find it amusing in the show ring if he looks away when you are throwing the dummy, and he thinks that you are fooling around!

· NEVER correct or punish your dog when he brings you something. Praise him even if he has stolen and brought your best pair of shoes to you! This is to ensure that he always has a positive association regarding retrieve!

· NEVER practise retrieve for long periods of time. It is better to perform one or two enthusiastic, good, successful retrieves, than to perform 10 mediocre retrieves, with a dog that is bored to tears! Quit before he loses his enthusiasm!

COMMANDS USED FOR “RETRIEVE”: Always use the same commands, the same tone of voice, and the same body language. The most common commands used for retrieve are: -

· “FETCH” – used when the dog takes, picks up or has the dummy gently popped into his mouth. In other words, in the early stages of learning, the word “Fetch” means to open his mouth and have a dummy gently put in it!
The word should be exciting and accompanied by jubilant praise, which can initially include repeating the command word “Fetch” so that the dog can associate the word with the action of “Fetch”.

· “HOLD” – used when the dog retains, holds or carries the dummy in his mouth. In other words, when the dummy is in his mouth, he has to close his jaws, and hang onto the dummy – until requested otherwise! Again, initially this command must be accompanied by jolly verbal encouragement. Again the command can be repeated with praise, to let the dog form an association with the word. “Hold, good dog” etc.

· “LEAVE” This is when, on command, the dog releases the dummy into your awaiting outstretched open hands! PRAISE IS NOT GIVEN for the “Leave” command, as the “Fetch” and “Hold” need to be habituated first. A good idea, is to calmly say “thank you” instead of excited exuberant praise for release!

· ONLY PRAISE FOR “FETCH” AND HOLD”.

RETRIEVE AS A TRAINING TOOL: The correct stimulation for dogs – both physical and mental exercise, cannot be over-emphasised. I believe that a dog that never learns the joy of “fetch” misses out on a whole lot of fun, not to mention that it may be utilised as a useful training tool, and as a reward for a job well done! It can also be a lazy way to exercise your dog when you have limited time! If you want your dog to learn to fetch, you must NEVER scold him for picking anything up in his mouth or he will associate it with a negative experience.

If the dog/pup at some stage in his life has had a negative experience, associated with carrying something in his mouth, when you actually want him to pick things up and “Fetch,” he will be disinclined to oblige, as he will remember the negative experience, of having something in his mouth and being scolded/punished! So whatever he pick’s up in his mouth, he is to be praised for. If he has something that is undesirable in his mouth, praise as usual, and calmly remove the article then replace it with something that he is allowed to have.

The following methods will give you some alternative ways to teach retrieve and to overcome any problems that you might be having with your dog/puppy.
· Use a large dose of your own common sense, and “read” your puppy/dog in order to decide which method will work for you and your dog/pup.
· Every dog and every owner is different and must be considered as individuals.
· You will need to be flexible to get it right!

GETTING IT RIGHT FROM THE BEGINNING: Most young puppies love to play “Fetch”. Once your new puppy has had a chance to settle into his new home, then you can begin to lay a good foundation for his future reliable retrieve.

The best time to begin a training session with your pup is while he is chewing on toys. Call him to you, if he brings the toy to you then praise him (praise him while he is carrying it), while coupling the praise with the “happy” soft excited voice command, “Fetch “Hold” and gently remove the toy. Remember to praise the pup for coming to you.

The proper choice of the first dummy is crucial. An old sock tied with a knot in the middle is a good first choice. A piece of wooden doweling can also be used, as can a stuffed toy, etc.
Initially make sure that the dummy is not too small, or it will be difficult to remove from the pup’s mouth. Also you don’t want the dummy to be too large, as this would be awkward for a young pup to carry. With a young puppy, do not start with a wooden competition dumbbell, as the pup may try to fetch and carry it by the ends, and you do not want bad habits to set in.

Designate a couple of places on your property for retrieve. The area should be distraction free, initially with you blocking the exit. If you are going to train outdoors make sure that the area is escape proof, and no more than 4 feet wide and 10 feet long. Indoors the long main passage way in the house is also an ideal spot. Sit on the floor blocking his exit. Sitting on the floor, or kneeling, is far better than standing, when one is inclined to lean over the pup which he might find intimidating.

1. Give him a trigger “Let’s go get your dummy”! (Always use the same “trigger” each time, and not as a play or release command – retrieve is not to be confused with play) Let the pup see and smell the dummy and then tease him up a bit by pulling it on the floor to stimulate his “prey drive” and encourage him to chase it.
2. Most puppies at this stage will happily chase and grab a valuable object/dummy. As soon as it is in his mouth, you should sound happy and exited and praised the pup with the command – “Fetch” (as soon as he goes out to chase) and – “Hold” (when he has the object is in his mouth). This is for the pup to learn the association of the word and the action.
3. As he picks up the dummy, in an excited voice, give him the command “Hold” and then in a happy tone with a big smile give him the command “Come”. You can also clap your hands to add to the verbal encouragement, coaxing him to you.
4. When he gets to you, gently cup his face / muzzle lovingly in your hands, so that he does not drop the dummy, and simultaneously give the command (remember to use a soft, light happy tone) “Hold” accompanied with tons of verbal encouragement and praise.
5. Give him a soft “Leave” command and if he does not comply at once then, gently remove the dummy from his mouth. Immediately throw it a short distance. If the pup has lost his enthusiasm, make it fun, and drag the dummy on the floor just out of reach to encourage him to chase it, then roll/throw it a couple of feet, or just far enough to get him to chase it, which will stimulate his “prey drive” and encourage his natural behaviours to hunt the toy.

Do this only once or twice (three times tops) LEARN TO QUIT WHILE YOU ARE AHEAD!
Most pups will retrieve so enthusiastically that you will be tempted to throw the dummy too often. RESIST THE TEMPTATION! A couple of short sessions per day are enough. After a while the pup will begin to bring you a toy whenever he wants to retrieve which will be a fair indication that you are right on track.

POSSIBLE PROBLEMS: You are bound to experience some problems along the way; Make sure that you are following each step correctly. Assuming that you are following the programme, here are some of the more common problems that you might experience.

Refusal to go out: Usually this is because the pup does not like the dummy. Try a few alternative dummies. If that does not work, are you perhaps throwing it too far? A couple of feet is far enough at first. Try a bit of teasing before actually throwing the dummy – “You can’t have it – it’s mine”. Then flash it (not too fast) in front of his face – enough to cause interest as it is pulled away – he should then snap at the dummy, - then give it a little toss, and go through the process as previously described.
As a last resort only, play tug of war, until the pup is actively trying to get it away from you. Immediately remove it and throw it a short distance. NEVER try to force a train and retrieve – especially with a puppy. Sometimes it is simply a matter of maturity.

Doesn’t Bring It Back: This type of behaviour generally falls into two categories: “Rompers” and/or “Chewers” – who delight in throwing the dummy around, shaking it to death, and/or stopping to play and/or all of the above. “Catch me if you can! “ They like to play “hit and run” with the dummy. At this early stage of training the above problems are usually quite easily solved. Since you are training in a confined area the puppy’s options are limited! DO NOT SCOLD THE PUPPY!!! Calmly return to your starting point and begin again. Anytime the pup indulges in this behaviour three times in a row, put the dummy away for a couple of days and then start again. Eventually he will learn that he can’t play this nice game if he doesn’t play by your rules!

Dropping the Dummy after Pick Up: Check the size of the dummy, make sure that it is not too large for the puppy to handle. Then check that it is not so long that it drags on the ground, the puppy could tread on it and/or it could pops out of his mouth, next make sure that you are not throwing the dummy too far! If not – then it depends on where he is dropping it. The pup that drops it at a distance from you is simply confused. Walk calmly to the dummy with a smile and with a happy tone of voice give him the instruction again “fetch it” and roll the dummy around. He should pounce on it. Quickly step back a stride or two and call him to you. Again if he drops it three times in a row, give it a couple of days break and start again.

The Fighter: This kind of pup will violently resist giving up the dummy – do not get angry! Quickly and firmly (remember to be gentle) offer him a trade, for either a treat, or an alternatively valuable toy, whilst giving him the command “Leave.” If he is not interested in the “Trade” then you need to gently limit the puppy’s options. (If he is not given a chance to disobey you he will never learn how to!) Simply slide your thumb behind his long fang and rest your thumb on his tongue for a second, accompanied with the calm command “Leave” he will automatically open his mouth to release the dummy.

IMPORTANT TIPS:
The speed that the pup brings the dummy back to you is very important. Do not worry about getting him to sit in front of you or formalising the exercise in any way whilst he is just learning. That part of the exercise you should only add when he is more mature.
Never stand like a statue when you are calling your pup to you with the dummy in his mouth. Crouch down, or go down onto your knees (leaning back – inviting body language) with wide open, inviting arms to encourage him to come to you without dropping the dummy.
If he is struggling to get the concept of returning to you, turn around and run away from him for a few steps – whilst calling him to you. Try not to bend / tower over him (which is intimidating.) Wait until he is in a good position, either at your side or in front of you and then calmly slide the dummy out of his mouth, remembering to praise only when the dummy is in his mouth.

IN THE NEXT ISSUE WE COVER PART TWO THIS “PLAYFUL RETRIEVE” EXERCISE


That’s all for now folks – should you have any problems with your pets be it a training problem or a behaviour issue, please do not hesitate to contact me at (011) 969-4467

Happy Heeling
Louise