Paws News February 2008

Paws Abilities Behaviour & Learning Centre
Newsletter Number 15 FEBRUARY 2008

A warm welcome to all Paws Abilities students, behaviour clients, family, and friends. Finally, the sun has come out. Mind you, that doesn’t help much at night when we are having load shedding.

So far, at my house, we have been lucky – but with our agility group, fast approaching it is re-opening on Thursday evenings – it could be fun. Agility in the dark! I wonder if it could be a new concept. Perhaps we should consider using guide dogs instead!

Well the silly season is now officially ended so things are now getting back to normal – well as normal as it can be with my hectic lifestyle!

At training, I am glad to see many old familiar faces returning, after a well earned rest and now we can all get back to business!


PAWS - DOG TRAINING CLASSES.
Our training classes at the dog school are back in full force.
The classes now held on Saturday’s are as follows:-

08:00 am Puppy One.
08:00 am Puppy Two.
10:00 am Puppy Three.
10:00 am Clicker Class.
01:00 am New recruits class – (new dogs, sub adolescent’s and first time handlers/dogs)
01:00 am Elementary Beginners.
03:00 pm Beginners.
03:00 pm Show Obedience Class.
03:00 pm Social Class.
03:00 pm Dog Sports Class. Games, – ball pond (scent), fly-ball, target recall, cross-country, etc.

Thursday evening class
06:30 pm Agility and dog jumping class – from beginners to advanced.

As you can see, we now cater for all kinds of dog training disciplines. Years of experience has shown us that not all people yearn for a formal obedience class, and some dogs (just like people) get bored with sticking to one discipline.
After a lot of thought and planning, we decided to create a spot for everyone and although it is a lot more work for us, I now see happier, more satisfied handlers and dogs! This is the main aim of our school. A trained dog is a happy dog!
The trick is to work out where each individual dog and handlers talent lie and I think we finally have the right recipe, as it is working really well!

DOG SPORT IN HOUSE COMPETITION
This is a new experiment for us and a small amount of dogs from the Sport Class, are going to compete for the Paws Abilities “Top Dog” event. Sadly after much planning, and date changing, many of the students unfortunately are unable to compete on the day, and as we have a full calendar for the first quarter of the year, we were unable to change the date. Nevertheless, even with a few dogs (and as this is a bit of an experiment) we are going to have lots of fun. The competitors are a bit NERVOUS and need everyone to come and cheer and shout for them on the day!

We invite you all to come and watch on Saturday the 16th from about 8:30 am. It should be a fun hour or two as each dog has to compete in each and every class, and the winner will be whoever gets the highest combined score.

The competition includes: - A cross country course; A trick routine; A target recall; A (sign posted) obedience course;
A ball pond scent retrieve; A mini Flyball, course and much much more! So, come and watch the fun and games. If this is a success, we are considering evolving this new sport further a field and eventually hosting an annual event open to all!


IN THE PIPELINE:
We are planning to host a series of practical training and or behaviour workshops in the near future PLEASE let us know what you would like to see as subject matter. I need some feedback before we go onto the planning stages.
We have decided that a limited number of dogs will be able to attend each practical workshop, so Please, rack your brains, and let us know what skills you would like to learn, and what “hands on” practical guidance you would like, or what kinds of behavioural problems you would like us to cover. You can give me (Louise) a ring at (011) 969-4467 (o/h) or per email at louthomp@mweb.co.za
EXCERPTS FROM A DOG'S DIARY – This is one of my all time favourites!
Day number 180
8:00 am - OH BOY! DOG FOOD! MY FAVOURITE!
9:30 am - OH BOY! A CAR RIDE! MY FAVOURITE!
9:40 am - OH BOY! A WALK! MY FAVOURITE!
10:30 am - OH BOY! A CAR RIDE! MY FAVOURITE!
11:30 am - OH BOY! DOG FOOD! MY FAVOURITE!
12:00 noon - OH BOY! THE KIDS! MY FAVOURITE!
1:00 PM - OH BOY! THE YARD! MY FAVOURITE!
4:00 PM - OH BOY! THE KIDS! MY FAVOURITE!
5:00 PM - OH BOY! DOG FOOD! MY FAVOURITE!
5:30 PM - OH BOY! MOM! MY FAVOURITE!

Day number 181
8:00 am - OH BOY! DOG FOOD! MY FAVOURITE!
9:30 am - OH BOY! A CAR RIDE! MY FAVOURITE!
9:40 am - OH BOY! A WALK! MY FAVOURITE!
10:30 am - OH BOY! A CAR RIDE! MY FAVOURITE!
11:30 am - OH BOY! DOG FOOD! MY FAVOURITE!
12:00 noon - OH BOY! THE KIDS! MY FAVOURITE!
1:00 PM - OH BOY! THE YARD! MY FAVOURITE!
4:00 PM - OH BOY! THE KIDS! MY FAVOURITE!
5:00 PM - OH BOY! DOG FOOD! MY FAVOURITE!
5:30 PM - OH BOY! MOM! MY FAVOURITE!

EXCERPTS FROM A CAT'S DIARY
DAY 752 My captors continue to taunt me with bizarre little dangling objects. They dine lavishly on fresh meat, while I am forced to eat dry cereal. The only thing that keeps me going is the hope of escape, and the mild satisfaction I get from ruining the occasional piece of furniture. Tomorrow I may eat another house-plant.

DAY 761 Today my attempt to kill my captors by weaving around their feet while they were walking almost succeeded, must try this at the top of the stairs. In an attempt to disgust and repulse these vile oppressors, I once again induced myself to vomit on their favourite chair...must try this on their bed.

DAY 765 Decapitated a mouse and brought them the headless body, in an attempt to make them aware of what I am capable of, and to try to strike fear into their hearts. They only cooed and condescended about what a good little cat I was...Hmmm. Not working according to plan.

DAY 768 I am finally aware of how sadistic they are. For no good reason I was chosen for the water torture. This time however it included a burning foamy chemical called "shampoo." What sick minds could invent such a liquid. My only consolation is the piece of thumb still stuck between my teeth.

DAY 771 There was some sort of gathering of their accomplices. I was placed in solitary throughout the event. However, I could hear the noise and smell the foul odour of the glass tubes they call "beer". More importantly, I overheard that my confinement was due to MY power of "allergies.” Must learn what this is and how to use it to my advantage.

DAY 774 I am convinced the other captives are flunkies and maybe snitches. The dog is routinely released and seems more than happy to return. He is obviously a half-wit. The bird on the other hand has to be an informant, and speaks with them regularly. I am certain he reports my every move. Due to his current placement in the metal room, his safety is assured. However, I can wait; it is only a matter of time!


“PAWS FOR LAUGHTER”:
The Puppy Rules:
1. The puppy is not allowed in the house.
2. OK, the puppy is allowed in the house, but only in certain rooms.
3. The puppy is allowed in all rooms, but has to stay off the furniture.
4. The puppy is allowed on the old furniture only.
5. Fine the puppy’s allowed on all the furniture, but is not allowed sleeping with humans on the bed.
6. OK, the puppy is allowed on the bed, but only on invitation by humans.
7. The puppy can sleep on the bed whenever he wants, but not under the covers.
8. The puppy can sleep under the covers by human invitation only.
9. The puppy can sleep under the covers every night.
10. The humans must ask permission to sleep under the covers with the puppy!


HOW TO PHOTOGRAPH A NEW PUPPY:
(Taken from Golden Retriever Club Magazine)

1. Remove film from box and load camera.
2. Remove film box from puppy’s mouth and throw in trash.
3. Remove puppy from trash and brush coffee grounds from muzzle.
4. Choose a suitable background for photo and mount camera on tripod and focus.
5. Find puppy and take dirty sock from mouth.
6. Place puppy in pre-focused spot and return to camera.
7. Forget about spot and crawl on knees after puppy; focus with one hand/fend off puppy with the other.
8. Get tissue and clean nose print from lens.
9. Take flashcube from puppy’s mouth and throw in trash.
10. Put cat outside and put peroxide on the scratch on puppy’s nose.
11. Put magazines back on coffee table.
12. Try to get puppy’s attention by squeaking toy over your head.
13. Replace your glasses and check camera for damage.
14. Jump up to grab puppy by scruff of neck saying “No, outside!”
15. Fix a cold drink / beer.
16. Sit back in your favourite chair and resolve to teach puppy “sit” and “stay” first thing tomorrow.


DIFFERENT GROUPS OR CATEGORIES OF THE DIFFERENT DOG BREEDS.
(Adapted from “The Encyclopaedia of the Dog” by Dr B Fogle)included in “Discover Your Puppy’s Paws Abilities” by Louise Thompson
(Accredited Animal Behaviour Consultant)

Often people get the different groups of dogs confused. Here is a nice easy outline of the breeds with some great breed info!

SIGHT HOUNDS
Bred for speed with aerodynamic build for flying like an arrow after their prey, sight hounds are almost invariably tall, long, lean, lithe running hounds. They are products of selective breeding thousands of years ago – breeding as sophisticated as any selective breeding today. All sight hounds emanated from Southwest Asia.

Examples of the breeds are
Greyhound, Afghan Hound, Borzoi, Saluki, Irish Wolfhound, Whippet, etc.

Sight Hounds thrive on physical activity and need regular access to open spaces to run and exercise. They are generally of benign temperaments, but are not overly demonstrative. They are quiet and usually reliable with children. In their purebred form Hounds are not particularly territorial. All Sight Hounds have a strong instinct to chase small animals.

SCENT HOUNDS
While Sight Hounds rely upon vision and great speed to capture or corner prey, Scent Hounds use their noses and profound stamina to wear down “game” and bring the “game” to bay. The Bloodhound, whose membrane lining to its nasal cavity is of a greater surface area than its entire body, is the supreme scent follower. Although dogs use all of their senses when hunting, hearing is relatively unimportant to the Scent Hound. While the Sight Hound chases silently; the Scent Hound hunts methodically, but will bark, howl or bay when it encounters the scent trail of its prey.

Examples of the breeds are
Bloodhound, Basset Hound, Doberman, Harrier, English Foxhound, Beagle, Kerry Beagle,
American Water Spaniel, Rhodesian Ridgeback etc.

Scent Hounds are generally amenable, and more willing to live together than other types of dogs. Their formidable scenting ability is beyond human comprehension. They possess certain physical characteristics that help them to pick up the faintest scent. For example, their lopped and generally long ears crate air currents that help them to detect scents and their pendulous, moist lips work as a wonderful scent ”trap”. The intensity with which these dogs work can be staggering! Some breeds do not have the killer’s instinct, leaving the dirty work of the hunt to other dogs such as Terriers or to humans. Scent Hounds are generally reliable with children and other dogs. As a group, they are not as demonstrative as Terriers nor as affectionate as Companion Dogs or as trainable as Gundogs. Scent Hounds are most content when working, be it following the trail of a fox or following the paw prints of the last dog that crossed its path.

SPITZ TYPE DOGS
No group of dogs has had a more influential relationship with humans than the Spitz type breeds that evolved throughout the Arctic regions of the world (now known as the Scandinavian countries and as Russia, Alaska, and Canada). The liaison between these dogs and many people living in these harsh regions is highly interdependent.
It is likely that the tribes of people along the Arctic islands would not have survived without the help of these versatile canines.

Examples of the breeds are
Siberian Husky, Alaskan Malamute, Eskimo Dog, Pomeranian, Papillon, Finish Spitz, Keeshond, Chow Chow, Schipperke, etc.

The anatomy of these breeds is well suited to harsh northern climates. Their coats are dense and have a water-resistant undercoat with thick fur even between their toes.
Known to be somewhat aloof, they are not always easy to manage and many breeds require extensive training.

TERRIERS
Terriers evolved from hounds. In appearance, the German Dachshund is a classic example of a Scent Hound miniaturised and dwarfed through selective breeding. Selective breeding was also used to change personality. The Terrier’s aggressive instinct was enhanced so that it would work ruthlessly and efficiently without backing down when confronted by a fox or badger. There is no group of dogs more expert at tunnelling than terriers. These feisty dogs still willingly engage in head-on combat with earth-dwelling mammals on their opponents’ home territories.

Examples of the breeds are
Airedale Terrier, Fox Terrier, Scottish Terrier, Yorkshire Terrier, American Staffordshire Terrier, Miniature Schnauzer, Bedlington Terrier, Staffordshire Bull Terrier, Parson Jack Russell Terrier, Jack Russell Terrier, Bull Terrier, Dachshund, etc.

As family pets, Terriers are a joy. They love the rough and tumble and have unlimited energy. Often highly active (some bordering on hyperactivity), they do however retain their instinct to nip. Most make excellent pets if trained correctly. If the excessive yapping is controlled from an early age, they can make good city pets and superb watchdogs.

GUNDOGS
For thousands of years Sight and Scent hounds accompanied hunters in search of food or in pursuit of sport. Natural genetic variations of coat texture, length of bone, scenting ability and levels of obedience had always occurred. However, with the introduction of firearms to hunting, breeders took a far greater interest in these other traits. Dog breeding subsequently took a dramatic leap forwards, producing highly responsive and amenable workers. Today these trustworthy breeds are some of the world’s most popular canine companions.

Examples of breeds are
Labrador Retriever, Flat Coated & Golden Retriever, English Pointer, English Springer Spaniel, American Cocker Spaniel, English Cocker Spaniel, English Setter, Irish Setter, German Pointers, Weimaraner, Standard Poodle etc.

The Gundog group are considered easier to train than many other groups. Gundogs are almost invariably relaxed with children, are less inclined to fight among themselves than any other breed and in most instances are eager and willing to obey commands.

LIVESTOCK DOGS
When our human hunter-ancestors became cultivators and farmers, the guarding activity of dogs was extended to protecting livestock. Shepherds soon discovered that if dogs were raised with sheep, goats, or cattle from an early age they looked after these animals as if they were members of their own pack. These guardians soon became indispensable.

Examples of the breeds are
German Shepherd Dog, Belgium Shepherd Dog, Border Collie, Shetland Sheepdog, Rough Collie, Bearded Collie, Corgi, Old English Sheepdog, Australian Shepherd Dog,
Giant Schnauzer, Schnauzer, Bernese Mountain Dog, Mastiff, Bullmastiff, Boxer, Great Dane, Rottweiler, Shar Pei, St Bernard, Newfoundland, Pyrenean Mountain Dog, Bouvier Des Flandes.

The herding breeds such as the Border Collie and other Shepherd breeds are often high-activity dogs needing lots of exercise and mental stimulation. Generally good all-round workers, they make good family companions. They do however, need lots of time and energy invested in them. The guarding varieties are somewhat less energetic, but can be strong-willed and need a great deal of training due to their size, physical power and strength.

COMPANION DOGS
All dogs offer companionship. They seem to understand our emotions. Most look upon the people they live with as part of their own community. Even the fiercest dog usually acts like a teddy bear with the people it knows. Almost all cultures in the world keep pets, usually dogs, for no obvious purpose other than companionship. Some breeds evolved for no other functional reason than to offer warmth, company and entertainment. These were generally small breeds, originally created for the amusement of women.

Examples of breeds are
Maltese, Chihuahua, Lhasa Apso, Shih Tzu, Pekingese, King Charles Spaniel, Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, French Bulldog, Pug, Poodles (Medium, and Toy) Dalmatian (Dalmatian was previously a working dog).


10 TIPS FOR DEALING WITH PROBLEM BEHAVIOUR
by Suzanne Clothier

At one time or another, every owner has to deal with problem behaviour. Understanding why your dog does what he does, and how to handle the situation correctly can help resolve problems quickly.

Here are some basic guidelines that apply to nearly all problem situations:

1. Control the dog and you control the situation. By putting on a training collar and lead, you can control the dog. For many dogs, their training equipment means business, not playtime, and this can help in a problem situation. A dog that is on lead cannot run away or chase people or other animals, and his owner has a chance to help him understand what he should do by guiding him with the leash and collar.

2. Be positive. Instead of saying "NO", try giving your dog something positive that he can do for you, such as "Sit", or "Heel". This positive approach means you can praise generously for his good actions, instead of simply yelling at him. For example, a dog who jumps up can be told to sit, and helped if necessary, then praised for sitting.

3. Allow a dog to be a dog. Often, what owners consider problem behaviour is simply normal dog behaviour that they find unpleasant or annoying. For example, digging is a natural canine activity but distressing to a garden proud owner. Instead of scolding for what comes naturally, it might be kinder to set up an area in which you have buried small treats to make it more attractive than the rest of the yard, and praising your dog for digging in "his" garden. Whenever natural behaviours conflict with what you might like, be creative and see if you can find an outlet for those interests and activities that is suitable for you both.

4. Be consistent. It is unfair to the dog to change your rules depending on what you are wearing, who's visiting, or the kind of day you've had. If your dog is allowed on the furniture, he will be confused when you yell at him because Aunt Bess is visiting and she doesn't think dogs should sit in chairs! If he's allowed to jump up when you're wearing jeans and a sweatshirt, don't be surprised if he cannot tell the difference between that and your best evening gown. Whatever your rules are, keep them consistent.

5. Have your dog earn what he wants. While everyone needs a few freebies now and then, your dog will not think you are a wonderful owner if you play with him, walk him, feed him, and pet him whenever he demands it. In fact, this often creates problems since from the dog's point of view an owner who can be "trained" this well is not one who deserves much respect. Teach your dog to say "please" by sitting, laying down or following some other command before he gets what he wants.

6. Be clear. Owners often confuse dogs by changing the words or commands, repeating them over and over again without showing the dog what is meant, and worst of all, assuming that the dog understands. When in doubt, gently show your dog physically exactly what you mean, giving the command at the same time so that he can associate the two. Use clear, matter of fact commands when addressing your dog, and be sure that your praising tone is excited, enthusiastic and upbeat.

Remember that while we use words to communicate, dogs are masters of reading body language. If your body language tells the dog one thing, but your voice tells the dog something else, chances are he will believe your body language. This is why people who bend towards their dog and shake a finger at them while scolding "No, no, no" often receive a playful bark - their body posture is much more like a dog inviting play than a dog who is annoyed or angry.

7. Exercise, exercise, exercise! The most common cause of problem behaviour is boredom and a lack of sufficient exercise. While you work or go out, your dog has little or nothing to do, and his need to exercise will not go away. A familiar yard or house is boring, and few dogs exercise on their own without interaction with their owners. Take the time to play with your dog, jog with him, walk in the woods, swim, or take long brisk walks each day. A tired dog is always a well behaved dog!

8. Provide mental stimulation. Especially for “only” dogs. Dr. Roger Abrante's suggestions regarding using 1/3 of your dog's diet for treats to be earned during training, 1/3 to be given as usual in a food bowl, and 1/3 to be "hunted" (try a Buster Cube, an ingenious toy which the dog must persistently work with to receive a few kibble at a time. Even a border collie will be amused by this for hours Buster Cubes are available from your local pet store or from DogWise.com.) This "home alone" 1/3-1/3-1/3 program helps your dog expend some energy and provides much needed stimulation. Understand your dog's genetic heritage. Whether you own a Doberman or a Beagle, a Samoyed or a Westie, it is important to understand what your dog was bred to do. Owners often forget that the behaviour that prompts a dog to run or stay close, hunt or guard, chase and kill or herd, work with people or work independently are all the result of generations of carefully selected traits.

9. Research your breed's history, and talk to people who understand your breed's characteristics. You may find that Rover's tendencies, while annoying or amusing, are precisely what makes him what he is. You can then decide how best to work with your dog's instincts and where you need to concentrate training efforts.

10. Train your dog. Every dog should have basic manners, but dogs are not born knowing how to behave. Take the time to train your dog on a consistent basis using kind, positive methods. Find a class near you whose methods and philosophies you like. If faced with a behaviour problem you can't solve, ask people you trust for a recommendation a accredited animal behaviour consultant and get professional help fast. The sooner you begin working on a problem the sooner you will have it solved.


OFFENCES UNDER THE ANIMAL PROTECTION ACT:
NUMBER 71 OF 1962

(Assented to 16 June 1962) (Date of Commencement: December 1962)

The term “animal” means any equine, (horse), bovine (cow or cattle), sheep, goat, pig, fowl, ostrich, dog, cat, or other domestic animal or bird, or any wild animal, wild bird or reptile which is in captivity or under the control of any person.

2. Offences in respect of animals. ---- (1) Any person who -----
a) (Obvious Cruelty) Overloads, overdrives, overrides, ill-treats, neglects, infuriates, torturers or maims, or cruelly beats, kicks, goads, or terrifies any animal; or

b) (Chaining up or confinement) Confines, chains, tethers or secures any animal unnecessarily, or under such conditions, or in such a manner or position, as to cause that animal unnecessary suffering or in any place which affords inadequate space, ventilation, light, protection, or shelter from heat, cold or weather; or
c) (Lack of food and water) Unnecessarily starves or under-feeds, or denies water or food to any animal; or
d) (Poisoning) Lays or exposes any poison or any poisoned fluid or edible matter of infectious agents, except for the destruction of vermin, or marauding domestic animals, or without taking reasonable precautions to prevent injury or disease being caused to animals ; or
e) (Neglect) Being the owner of any animal, deliberately or negligently keeps such animal in a dirty, or parasitic condition, or allows it to become infested with external parasites or fails to render, or procure, veterinary or other medical treatment or attention, whether through disease, injury, delivery of young, (pregnancy or labour) or any other cause, or fails to destroy (provide euthanasia or destroy) or cause to be destroyed, any such animal which is so seriously injured, or diseased or in such a physical condition, that to prolong its life would be cruel, and would cause such animal unnecessary suffering; or
f) (Equipment) Uses on, or attaches to any animal any equipment, appliance or vehicle, which causes, or will cause, injury to such animal, or which is loaded, used or attached in such a manner as will cause such animal to be injured, or to become diseased, or to suffer unnecessarily; or
g) (Hunting) Save for the purpose of training hounds maintained by a duly established and registered vermin club in the destruction of vermin, liberate any animal in such a manner or place as to expose it to immediate attack or danger of attack, by other animals or by wild animals, or baits or provokes any animal or incites any animal to attack another animal; or
h) Liberates any bird in such manner as to expose it to immediate attack, or danger of attack by animals, wild animals or wild birds; or
i) (Transport – including carts etc) Drives or uses any animal which is so diseased, or so injured, or in such physical condition that it is unfit to be driven, or to do any work; or
j) (Trapping) Lays any trap or other device for the purpose of capturing, or destroying, any animal, wild animal or bird, the destruction of which is not proved to be necessary, for the protection of property, or for the prevention of the spread of disease; or
k) Having laid any such trap or other device, fails either himself, or through some competent person, to inspect and clear such trap or device, at least once each day; or
l) Except under the authority of a permit issued by the magistrate of the district concerned, sells a trap, or other device, intended for the capture of any animal, including any wild animal (not being a rodent) or wild bird, to any person who is not a bona fide farmer; or

m) (Road transport) Conveys, carries, confines, secures, restrains or tethers any animal –
(i) under such conditions, or in such a manner or position, or for such a period of time, or over such a distance, as to cause that animal unnecessary suffering; or
(ii) in conditions affording inadequate shelter, light or ventilation, or in which, such animal is excessively exposed to heat, cold, weather, sun, rain, dust, exhaust gas, or noxious fumes; or
(iii) without making adequate provision for suitable food, potable water and rest, for such animal, in circumstances where it is necessary; or

n) (Poisoning) without reasonable cause administers to any animal any poisonous or injurious drug or substance; or
o) ……………….
p) (Abandonment) Being the owner of any animal, deliberately or without reasonable cause or excuse, abandons it, whether permanently or not, in circumstances likely to cause that animal unnecessary suffering; or
q) Causes, procures or assists in the commission or omission of any of the aforesaid acts or, being the owner of any animal permits the commission or omission of any such act; or
r) By wantonly or unreasonably or negligently doing or omitting to do any act or causing or procuring the commission or omission of any act, causes any unnecessary suffering to any animal; or
s) Kills any animal in contravention of a prohibition in terms of a notice published in the Gazette under section (3) three of this section,

Shall, subject to the provisions of this Act and any other law, be guilty of an offence and liable on conviction to a fine or the imprisonment for a period not exceeding twelve months or to such imprisonment without the option of a fine.

ANIMAL FIGHTS:
1) Any person who -
a) Possess, keeps, imports, buys, sells, trains, breeds or has under his control, an animal for the purpose of fighting any other animal;
b) Baits, or provokes, or incites, any animal to attack another animal, or to proceed with the fighting of another animal,
c) For financial gain or a form of amusement promotes animal fights;
d) Allows any of the acts referred to in paragraphs (a) to (c) to take place on any premises, or place in his possession, or under his charge or control
e) Owns, uses or controls any premises, or place, for the purpose or partly for the purpose, of presenting animal fights on any such premises, or place, or who acts, or assists, in the management of any such premises, or place, or who receives any consideration, for the admission of any person, to any such premises or place; or
f) Is present as a spectator, at any premises, or place, where any of the acts referred to in paragraphs (a) to (c) is taking place, or where preparations are being made for such acts.

Shall be guilty of an offence and liable on conviction to a fine or imprisonment for a period not exciding two years.


WHEN DOGS FIGHT ………..
By Mogens Eliasen
Additional input by L Thompson (ABC of SA)

What do you do when dogs fight? The answer very much is, "that depends...” There are several types of dogfights. Each one of them has its own characteristics - and you need to know the difference, before you do anything to attempt taking control over such a situation.

TYPES OF DOGFIGHTS
Rank hierarchy disputes between two males. This is by far the most common kind of dogfight in a natural dog environment. It is also the kind of fight you often don't really need to do much about - because - if “Nature” rules - the outcome will not cause any serious damage on either party! Sure, the sound effects are as if dozens of dog packs are getting savagely murdered - but it is often a display with very little seriousness of intent behind it. Male dogs, in general, have very strong bite inhibitors, and they will generally not do any harm on purpose. (HOWEVER - Be aware that fighting dog breeds, like Bull Terriers, Mastiffs, Pitbulls, and Staffordshire Terriers etc are dangerous exceptions to this...)

Rank hierarchy disputes between two bitches....
This is a serious thing. Bitches are called "bitches" for a darn good reason: they want to kill each other! I am serious. Do not expect a bitch to involve itself in some serious fighting without a clear intention of destroying its counterpart. Female dogs do not have those strong bite inhibitors that the males have... Nature protects the females in general by giving them very little motivation to fight, so serious quarrels between two bitches are rare - but dangerous when they happen... (You may consider fighting between any two dogs of which one is a fighting breed as compatible to a bitch fight...)

Rank hierarchy disputes between a male and a female
This is a rare occurrence. Females are generally OK with the natural dominance from the males - they know who makes the final decisions in all “important” matters anyway... The females let the males brag about their virtues - and then they get away with what they want anyway. Not much different from the human world! The real difference is that the males accept it - and NEVER dispute the privileges of a female. In most cases, a male will never hurt a female by intent - even if it costs him his life to not do it.
This makes a fight between a male and a female extremely dangerous - for the male! If he cannot escape, it is possible that he might get killed – there have been cases documented of this - even if he is much larger and much stronger than the female....

Rank hierarchy disputes between two puppies
Have a good laugh - and don't worry! Provided the puppies are litter mates. If not, you are in serious trouble... Nature has no way of solving the problem with two puppies being of different ages and sizes. In addition, puppies have no bite inhibitors. They develop with puberty. Therefore, a five-month-old puppy can easily kill a two-month-old puppy by accident... or, two 4 months old puppies of breeds that are significantly different in size can also become a very serious problem for the small one....

Disputes between a puppy and an adult.
As long as the adult has physical power to win, there is no problem in this. Even a female, generally will not hurt a puppy. But please note that Nature considers a puppy as "a dog that has not yet reached puberty"! Don't come to me and call an 8-month old dog a "puppy"! It is not! It is a young adult - a juvenile. It does not obtain the standard "puppy protection" or “puppy privilege” from another adult dog, but gets treated for what it most often is: a brat!

Then we have some exceptions....
Sometimes, dogs will fight for other reasons than hierarchy disputes. Rarely - but it does happen. Territory boundary disputes is one example. Those are generally not very severe, in terms of consequences, as the weaker party normally simply will leave the scene - and be left alone by the "winner" when doing so.

Other fights start over possession of a treasure of some kind, such as food or an exceptionally attractive toy. In addition, those are, in principle, related to hierarchy disputes - by often being used as excuses to start one...

Two males fighting over "the rights" to mate a bitch in heat is in principle also a hierarchy dispute. Nothing more. It is very rare, though. Males "in love" are generally very peaceful. Sex and aggression are not really linked for dogs (unless there is human interference! As I already indicated, in terms of fighting, I will never trust a bulldog, a bull terrier, a bull mastiff, or any other dog of a breed that is man-made for dog-dog fights. One of the most prominent features that made these dogs good fighters in the arena is their lack of bite inhibitors - and that “lack” is a genetic defect, that cannot be "bred away" again, as it represents the absence of a gene. Genes that are extinct are extinct. Like dinosaurs. They never come back, no matter what you do in your breeding... Many dogs of these fighting breeds still retain some bite inhibitors, and some dogs of other breeds have lost them, so this is not a back/white issue. It is a matter of risk management!

Then there is the situation with a very small dog being attacked by a larger dog.
This involves a serious risk of the small dog being so scared that it will see itself as a possible prey for the larger dog - and this, in turn, will make the larger dog react in accordance with its hunting instincts - and not its social instincts! Very dangerous... Owners of small dogs are not necessarily "hysterical" when they do not want their small dogs to be attacked "in play" by someone else's much larger dog! It is outright ignorant and irresponsible of the owner of the larger dog to let it happen - and it is nothing less than a ridiculous insult to call the owner of the smaller dog names because he/she is concerned about the little dog's safety. That concern is extremely legitimate, and all owners of bigger dogs should respect that!

What you do when dogs fight... First thing to consider is this: is this fight putting any of the dogs at serious risk? If NOT - do not do anything, but let the dogs resolve their dispute the natural way. Yes - this calls for some serious and very fast judgment from your side! So, if you are in doubt, you act as if this fight could be dangerous... The big question is how you do it...

In general, the "standard way" of grabbing each dog by the collar is a very dangerous solution. In the heat of a fight, no dog will notice the presence of your hand - and you will seriously have to count your fingers afterwards! Screaming and yelling at the fighting dogs will do nothing more and nothing less than encouraging them to fight even more viciously! Same thing goes with hitting them or kicking them - it will only make things worse (intensifying the aggression) - and it will for sure do so.

The safe approach is to grab the dog's hind legs and firmly lift them and twist them, forcing the dog to roll over onto its shoulders. It that position, it cannot bite you - and it cannot fight the other dog either - because it is forced into a submissive position that automatically will cause such changes in its hormone chemistry that its fighting mood will disappear in a matter of 30-60 seconds. When this happens, you just release it, and it will take off, showing all signs of embarrassment!

OK - that was one dog. However, what about the other one? Obviously, doing this is impossible for one person, dealing with two dogs. If you are two, it is simpler: each grab a dog, and when you got them turned over, slowly pull them apart, so you do not cause any damage from a set of teeth that has a firm grip in some skin on the other dog...



Now, which dog do you grab, your own or the other?
I see two main situations here: You know your dog has a problem with provoking fights, and you want to teach your dog a lesson about not doing it. The fight comes as a surprise to you, and you do not really know who started it.

The first situation calls for your grabbing your own - provided you can trust the other owner...
This further gets complicated by the fact of your possibly not knowing the other dog and the other owner... maybe the other owner isn't there! Another complication is: does your dog have its bite inhibitors intact? If you do not know for sure that the answer is "yes", then you have to act as if it was "no" - otherwise, you will be facing some severe liabilities afterwards...

Well, this can get ugly. But, if we assume that you know your dog is OK, and that it has its bite inhibitors intact, and you are alone about dealing with this aggressor that attacked your dog, then the answers is simple: grab the other dog by the hind legs and help your own dog nail it! Now, if your dog is one with no bite inhibitors, you run a serious risk of inflicting some very serious damage on the other dog - maybe even killing it....

I have no advice for you in that situation - you will have to make that judgment call yourself and take the consequences of your choice of dog. Yes, I know: you will meet many other people who will not understand this - and they will get extremely offended and possible extremely aggressive to you when you do this... particularly if you grab their dog by the hind legs! My personal take on this is that I don't give a damn. The dogs come first. Idiotic owners later. But I acknowledge that this is not for everybody to do. I have no specific recommendations here that will cover everything you can run into in regards to stupid people that go berserk. There is no way out of making some serious decisions - and making them fast. However, if you are well prepared, it is much easier - and has a much greater chance of working out as it should!

How you avoid dog fights - or at least minimize the risk of them. First of all: you want to be very careful with your choice of breed.... If you do want one of the fighting breeds, then you have to accept your responsibilities.

Next: make sure that your dog learns from puppyhood that dominance from an older dog is to be responded to with submission, not aggression. You have a very narrow window for this: in the period from 8 weeks of age untill 12 weeks of age, your puppy must learn this from several other adult dogs. If not, it will never learn it, and you have a dog that will show "behavioural problems" with other dogs, either by excessive fear or by unacceptable aggression. Further: when you meet with another dog and you feel the tension, you make a quick agreement with the other owner to let the dogs’ figure this out on their own - and you both let go of the leashes! I know, this sounds crazy - but reality is that those leashes, when tightened by nervous handlers, do nothing but escalating the conflict. Without that moral support from a tight leash, the dogs are far less inclined to use aggression.

Finally: be a good pack leader for your dog! This means that you train it well, so you can always call it, also when it is in the middle of playing with another dog!

It also means that you avoid confrontation with other dogs, or rather: that you take care of those confrontations! The way to do this is to put your dog in a PARK or FREEZE while you go up towards the upcoming dog and bring it under control before it can approach your dog... (The PARK/FREEZE command is the command you use to make the dog stay on a spot until you release it. It may stand, sit, or lie down, as it wishes, but it cannot leave the spot - one of the most fundamental commands you can teach your dog. Any puppy in the world will learn this before it is 8 weeks old, so you really have zero excuse for not getting it done...).

How you deal with the strange dog? Well, if the owner is with it, you try to resolve this potential dispute upfront, through human communication with the owner.

If the owner is not there or not cooperative, you squat down and get the other dog to come to you for the treat you offer. While it eats your treats (have a few more ready), you clip the snap of your leash on its collar... (Yes, this implies that your dog can do its PARK/FREEZE without it’s' leash!)

If the strange dog ignores you and heads right towards your dog, you instantly release your dog from the PARK and hope things will work out OK. If not, you prepare yourself for dealing with the fight. And now you realize the second good reason for being able to get your dog to PARK without leash: you don't want your dog to enter this situation with a leash attached to it...

Some alternatives you also might want to consider...
Carrying a stick for defence is tempting. Well, if you plan on using it to hit the other dog, you could be in for some very unpleasant consequences, such as causing severe damage - or making the conflict even worse!

You are much better off using your leash.... A good solid leather or thick webbing leash will make an excellent and fairly risk-free weapon. If you swing it in the air like a helicopter rotor, holding on the snap, you can scare just about any dog quite effectively. If you hit it is the or its front legs, it will hurt like hell - and not do any serious damage. Most dogs, even when in a mood of fighting, will take to running away from such a "heli leash". (Once again, you see the importance of you controlling your dog without leash...) Or if your dog is off leash – consider carrying two leashes!

Other defence weapons that can come in handy, include pepper spray. Although intended mainly for bears in the USA (which do not always respond to them as the manufacturer’s declare - besides, if you really can get close enough to use it on a bear, you should have been gone long time ago...), they are actually quite effective on dogs. Be aware, though, that they are illegal in many places. However, the possible fine you are facing will most likely be negligible or actually even acceptable, compared to the cost of "repairing" your dog after a nasty fight...

Regardless of the kind of defence approach you use, you are in for a hard time if the owner of the other dog witnesses what you do.... Idiots that let their fighting dogs run lose and present a danger for other people and other dogs, are often of a macho nature and would love the opportunity to make a fight with you! In addition, if your dog is heavily engaged in a fight with another dog, it will not come and help you defend yourself...The law-abiding citizen will simply pull out his cell phone and call the Police, then wait and see what is left of his dog when the fight is over...

So what do you do?
Make your own judgment on that - no recommendation given from my side, other than this: avoid confrontation – do not put your dog in a position where it is able to make the “wrong” choices. Dogs know this, and when their instincts are intact, they follow that rule very carefully. You need to do the same.


TEACHING YOUR DOG TO DO TRICKS
You can have fun teaching your dog simple tricks and amaze your neighbours and friends.

Everything taught in this article uses a conditioned reinforcer as a form of praise, a marker that tells the dog, "You're right!" I have proved that it makes no difference if the “marker” is a word, a noise, a clicker or some other sound. The same basic principle applies.

To use a conditioned reinforcer word:
To teach a conditioned reinforcer word select a marker word (one you do not use in ordinary conversation like "yay" or "YESS!"),

To use a conditioned reinforcer sound:
You can use a clicker, Or simply a tongue cluck. A lid from a Snapple bottle works, As would a ballpoint pen clicking on and off.

To teach the dog that the marker means food is coming, sit in a quiet place with a handful of dog treats. Make the sound and then feed immediately. Repeat about 10 times. Then ask for a behaviour the dog knows how to perform reliably, such as “Sit”. Command, "Sit" and then mark the behaviour with your special sound and immediately feed.
To be effective, you must feed every time you use the mark. It is important to be patient when teaching any new behaviour If your dog appears to be a bit slow or isn't doing what you want it to do, give the dog time to learn. If you become frustrated, stop training before you loose your cool and do any damage and start again later. Make you are training make sessions fun -- for both you and your dog. Most dogs can learn most of the tricks described here. Few dogs will be able to learn all of the tricks. The easiest tricks to teach are those that take advantage of the natural behaviour of the dog.

For example.
Dogs that like to bark can learn to "speak" easily.
Dogs that naturally extend their paws can be easily taught to "shake hands."
Some dogs have good balance and can "sit up."
Others lack this balance and can never do this trick no matter how hard they try, usually this is due to the individual animal’s conformation or the way it’s body is put together.

Get to know what “turns your dog on”. Know your own dog, work with it and give him a chance to learn. If the dog does not catch on at first, keep trying. If your dog cannot do something even though it tries really hard to please you, give up before you or the dog become frustrated and quickly move on to something else. Here are some tricks you and your dog might enjoy:

Shake hands.
With your dog sitting, reach down and take hold of its right paw with your right hand and lift the paw gently.
Tell your dog "Shake!" as you do it. Lift the paw until it is on the level of the dog's chest and then shake it gently just as though you were shaking hands. Praise. Repeat six times a day for a few days, then just try reaching out for the paw, but do not take it. If the dog lifts its paw, take it and shake it gently, praising. Keep up the praise. You can encourage this behaviour by holding a treat tightly cupped in your hand. Some dogs will paw at your hand. Mark the behaviour and reward. Alternatively, put a piece of tape on the bottom of your dog's foot -- the dog will probably lift a paw to get rid of the tape. Mark the behaviour as dog lifts a paw.



Wave.
This is a variation of "shake hands." Wave at the dog -- be sure to use a signal that is unlike any that you use in obedience or other activities. At the same time, tell the dog, "wave." You can encourage this behaviour by gently touching the dog's paw with your right hand as you wave with your left and say, "wave."

Roll over.
Make learning this trick a game. Get down on the floor with your dog and wait until it is lying on its side. Put one hand in the middle of its back, your other hand under its chest and shoulders. Tell your dog "Roll over!" and turn it gently over as you do so. When it is over, praise. Do this three or four times a day. Once the dog gets the idea, cut down on your assistance until the dog is doing it on its own. Keep up the praise. An alternative method is to lure the dog over by using food held just about an inch from its nose. Once the dog is over, give the food reward.

Sit up.
Sitting up is an entirely unnatural position for a dog, so it will have to be helped at first (a few dogs can never physically perform this trick – think of the dog’s conformation). To start, sit it in a corner, facing out. Tell your dog "Sit up!" and lift it gently with your hand on dog's chest until dog is in an erect sitting position. Keep it there a few moments, and then put one finger under dog's chin to help your dog keep its balance. Repeat the command, hold the dog there for a few seconds, and then let it down. Praise. Repeat this six times a day until the dog will stay without your help once you have got it up. Then keep working on this trick until the dog goes up by himself.

Caution:
Do not hold the dog in a sit-up position too long – especially in the beginning. It can hurt or damage the dogs back before the muscles get a chance to become accustomed to this exercise. If this happened, the dog will become discouraged and will not want to do this trick. Do not do this with puppies.

Catch.
The best time to practice this trick is just before mealtime when the dog is hungry. Stand close in front of your dog and toss it small bits of food, saying, "Catch" as you throw them. What the dog catches it will eat. If the dog does not catch it be quick and remove the bits of food so the dog is not rewarded for missing the “catch”. Before long your dog will get the idea that the more treats he catches, the more it gets to eat. Make it as easy as possible for the dog to catch the food you throw. You can increase the distance and/or make it more difficult later. Rather try to ensure that the dog does not fail in the beginning. Popcorn, without salt or butter, is good for teaching this.

Say Your Prayers.
Select a chair in the house for your dog to use. Make sure that the chair is heavy enough so it will not slide when the dog leans against it, and it should be just high enough for your dog to rest its forepaws on it comfortably. Take your dog to the chair and sit the dog in front of the chair. Give the command, "Say your prayers." As you do this, simultaneously lift its front feet and place them on the edge of the chair and gently lower the dog’s chin, until the chin is resting on his paws. Soothe your dog with kind words as you do this whilst you gently hold the dog in the position a few moments and then release with much praise. As with all other tricks it is simply, a matter of repetition until the dog gets the idea and performs the trick on its own. One difficulty is placement of the head. Holding the head in a certain position is something quite foreign to dogs and it may take many repetitions before the dog understands this particular part. Keep at it with patience and praise until your dog catches on. Obedience training in the "stay" is helpful here.

Bring the newspaper.
Here tricks come into the area of usefulness because it is handy to have your dog bring the evening newspaper, your shoes, or whatever you happen to want but are too lazy or tired to get up and get yourself. Once your dog has learned the basics of getting and bringing to you any one thing, it can be taught to recognize the word for, and bring you, any number of items. First, the dog must learn the simple retrieve. Without going into the regular obedience retrieve, you can get the idea across to your dog by simply playing ball. Throw a ball and let your dog bring it back to you in play. Go on from this to throwing a stick, a rolled-up newspaper, a glove, or any item small enough for your dog to carry but large enough it won't swallow it. When the dog is carrying things happily for you, give your dog a newspaper to carry. Give it the command, "Bring the paper" or "Fetch the paper" and encourage your dog to bring it to you. At first, you will need to go outside with the dog to encourage it to pick up the paper and bring it in. Take the paper from the dog when it gets inside. Then give the dog lots of praise and a treat. After about 10 days or so, the dog will be getting the idea and you can stand at the door and tell it to get the paper. Whenever the dog does go out and brings back the paper, be sure to praise a lot. Note: if your dog is likely to run away when off lead, do not try this trick. When you want your dog to bring anything other than the paper, you will have to work with the dog on each item. It will not take as long to teach, but you must be patient. At first, the dog will be confused so be sure to praise. If you tell the dog "no" and act angry, it will think you are upset because it brought you something. The dog will not understand that it brought the wrong thing.

Crawl.
To teach your dog to crawl, you need a chunk of its favourite food. Tell the dog to lie down. Place your left hand over but not touching his back. Hold the food in your right hand, out a foot or two in front of its face. Tell your dog "Crawl" and start moving the food away. If the dog starts to stand up, gently help it back down with your left hand and command "Crawl" again. Repeat several times a day.

When the dog actually crawls, even two or three steps, give it the treat. Eventually it will get the idea that it must crawl a little way before it gets a treat.

All these tricks are easier to teach if your dog is obedience trained. How's that for a sales pitch for obedience training!

A note from Louise. As everyone who has ever known me - knows – I have absolute abhorrence for punishment as a means of learning and discipline. I have fought for many years against the use of choke chains in obedience training and any kind of dog learning and personally find the use of either a pinch or prong collar and a choke chain totally unacceptable. The quick fix methods perhaps might work – but to me the cost is too great! In my humble opinion, pain should not be a method or tool of learning!
What I found interesting is this article taken from one of the web sites (sorry guys can’t remember which one)
The numbers seem to speak for themselves
A Study on Prong Collars was done in Germany:
100 dogs were in the study. 50 were trained using choke and 50 used prong.
The dogs were studied for their entire lives. As dogs died, autopsies were performed on each dog.
Of the 50 which had chokes, 48 had injuries to the neck, trachea, or back. 2 of those were determined to be genetic. The other 46 were caused by trauma.
Of the 50 which had prongs, 2 had injuries in the neck area, 1 was determined to be genetic. 1 was caused by trauma.
Whilst I find the use of prong or pinch collars totally unacceptable – what is interesting (from a technical point of view) is that the incredible high amount of damage incurred was by the choker chains – not the pinch collar, which looks aesthetically like a tool from the Spanish inquisition!

Me - I will stick to my flat collar, or if I had a dog that was want to wriggle out of the check – perhaps I would make use of a nice gentle webbing semi check that I know can do no damage! Besides for a big strong dog – what is wrong with using a headcollar??? Not macho enough! Why is it that some dog trainers need to perform the whole macho thing?
It seems to me the harsher the training methods used the bigger the chip on the instructors shoulders ……………..perhaps I am talking out of turn again (oooops – me and my big mouth – what else is new!! Ha Ha!)

At Paws Abilities – in all our training classes, the collar is simply on the dog to ensure that it does not leave the grounds. Therefore the rest in my book is irrelevant!!



Not a lot about obedience training in this issue – I will ensure that the next issue has lots of training tips.

Please give me some feedback about the newsletter (I need your views, any news, criticisms and comments) and PLEASE remember to let me know what you would like us to cover for the practical dog workshops we are intending to host (a limited amount of dogs will be permitted) You decide on the subject matter.

At this stage we are planning the first workshop to be held in April – probably at the end of April (most likely the last weekend) and it will be held at the Paws Abilities Behaviour and Learning Centre, here on the east rand, in Benoni at our training grounds.


Best Regards
Louise






“Gentle Paws”
Your Dog – in Safe Hands

“Gentle Paws” - A New Concept in Dog Grooming!
Your dog’s comfort and safety ensured!
# The owner of Gentle Paws performs all grooming/washing/bathing/clipping.
# No assistants! No helpers! No stress! Unhurried, gentle, dog grooming.
# Difficult and problem dogs welcome.
# No overbooking – only a limited amount of dogs will be booked per day.
# Open-plan parlour – owners are welcome (and encouraged) to sit and enjoy a
cup of coffee and watch/wait/read a book while their dog is being groomed.
Gentle Paws has nothing to hide!
# Competitive prices – no hidden costs. Prices for dogs with badly mattered or
un-kept coats available on enquiry – up front!
# All dogs washed with warm water – All year round!
# Day-run/exercise area for large breeds to let off steam before grooming.
# Early puppy accustomisation programme. Get your puppy used to grooming
from an early age – this prevents grooming and handling problems later on in
life!
# Collection and delivery service available on request.
# Safe, calm, fully-fenced rural environment.
# On Sale: Gentle dog-training equipment, dog toys, treats, and yummy chews.

To book an appointment contact:
Emma Thompson @ (082-923-9317)
Electronic address. louthomp@mweb.co.za

“Gentle Paws” is run under the guidance of an accredited animal behaviour consultant
and abides by the same values and principles as
Paws Abilities Behaviour and Learning Centre.

If you have a dog with GROOMING ISSUES – WE CAN HELP!
Gentle, non-confrontational, gradual accustomisation programmes
(Positive reinforcement methods only) undertaken for dogs with grooming issues.