“Paws Abilities” - Behaviour & Learning Centre
Newsletter Number –27 February 2009
A warm welcome to all Paws friends, students, behaviour clients and everyone else who receives this newsletter. We have a lot of info which is a follow on to the last issue (and yes - I do feel a bit better after I “vented” and let off steam in the last issue regarding dogs being “dumped”) Mind you in this issue I also do a fair bit of “venting” if only for personal therapeutic reasons! Come on guys – I would love your input! Join me – lets “vent” together!
You are welcome to pass this little publication onto anyone who has an interest in dog training and or dog behaviour. I am thrilled to often get correspondence from all over the world, from people who have had the newsletter forwarded to them by friends in SA, and it is always exciting to receive their feedback and input. What is extremely interesting, is that feedback indicates that we are right up there with the best of them - using the most up to date methods of (non-confrontational) training and behaviour modification, which is a great feather in our caps!
At the risk of sounding like a broken record - I regularly state – at Paws Abilities we are truly blessed with having some of the most incredible instructors I have ever known (in over 35 years of dog training). In saying that, I must also add that I believe that we also have some of the most dedicated handlers and dog owners I have ever known, who are an absolute pleasure to teach and who make it all worthwhile. So a big round of applause to my trainers and their handlers, you guys are the BEST!
Well at long last, the first stage of our renovations is completed and we now have a wonderful building where we can hold workshops, seminars, social events and lots of our charity fundraising without having to go the expense of hiring a hall. It ‘aint posh, but it is delightfully rustic - very dog friendly and practical, and, once we find the money to pay back the loan, we will then go onto stage two, which is the erecting of a huge roof area to provide shade and extra space under cover for all weather conditions! Stage three will be paving the outside areas that are under cover.
CHOOSING THE RIGHT BREED - A BACKGROUND ON DOGS
Taken from “Discover your Puppy’s Paws Abilities – available on order
By Louise Thompson Accredited Animal Behaviour Consultant
Where does Fido Come from?
Although dogs now live in mixed species packs with humans cats, horses or other animals, they maintain the basic pack behaviours so invaluable for wolf survival. However, when wolves and man first became working partners thousands of years ago, early humans selected to accentuate certain “wolfy” behaviours when they began to develop breed types for certain purposes. According to Raymond Coppinger and other researches, these breeds were developed from wolves whose behavioural development was arrested at a particular stage. Coppinger classifies wolf development in four stages:
1. The Adolescent stage, in which the cubs play around the den but retreat into the den when frightened and may bite when cornered;
2. The Rendezvous and follow stages, in which the cub progresses from playing with moving objects around the den site to stalking litter mates, insects and other critters.
3. The third stage in which pups pounce on and bite each other and other objects that they are stalking.
4. The Final adult stage in which the pup joins the pack to get the experience of hunting and killing.
Dogs that developed from wolves that were caught in the adolescent stage, would never progress to the hunting and killing conclusion, and so would make good guardian dogs for livestock. Dogs evolving from wolves whose development had been arrested in the object-playing stage, would become sporting dogs.
Dogs that developed from the stalking-stage wolves, would become the sheep-herders, and those that developed from the “pouncers” and followers, would become the livestock heelers. The world-renowned behaviourist, Fisher, considers Coppinger's work to provide guidelines for assessing dog behaviour and devising training programs to prevent and solve behaviour problems. He followed a brief description of Coppinger's work with a review of other studies that emphasises behaviour sequences common to many animals and simplifying behaviour to four survival strategies.
Fight, flight, freeze, and “fiddling around - also known as displacement behaviour.
Fisher says that pack behaviour is a useful guide for working with dogs but that the dominance structure tends to be flexible between animals in the household and between the humans and the dogs in the family. Dominance is only a problem if it gets out of control, said Fisher.
It would be useful for dog owners to know that the breed and character type of the dog must be taken into account when assessing behaviour. Some dogs get relief from expressing aggression. Most aggression arises from fear -- fear that a resource is in jeopardy or that safety is threatened.
Dogs can build on the things that they learn. Therefore, early socialisation by breeders is vital to produce a dog that has confidence, is adaptable, and recovers quickly from changes in the environment. Dogs must be manoeuvred into a "comfort zone" between fight and flight so that they can think and make decisions about their subsequent behaviour. Dogs should be praised only for choosing the correct behaviour, not for ceasing unacceptable behaviour.
MAKING THE “RIGHT” CHOICE
The results of this decision are permanent and will have an impact on you and your family for at least the next 10 to 15 years or so (age/longevity is breed specific). It is imperative that you choose your puppy from the correct breed group in order to find the perfect companion to fit in with your individual lifestyle, character and family dynamics. You must take into account the original purpose of each breed. This will give you an idea of the dog’s basic characteristics, intelligence, energy levels, compatibilities and training needs. When deciding on a breed to buy consider the following:-
· The reason that the family wants a dog?
Each family member may have different perceptions of owning a dog. A lap dog to cuddle, a big brave protection dog to take on long lonely walks, a working dog, something to brag to the neighbours about, or any combination thereof.
· The (adult) size of the prospective dog.
· The size and suitability of your property.
· The amount of hours you work a day away from the property. If you are away from home 14 hours a day, and your new dog will be alone for that time, it might be a better option to consider getting another species of pet!
· The amount of time you have available for exercise and training.
· The amount of time that you will have available for grooming and maintenance (long or shorthaired breeds).
· The age and character of your human children (if the children are small, are they going to be knocked over by a large exuberant breed). Families with undisciplined children tend to produce naughty undisciplined dogs, so perhaps a smaller, easier to manage breed would be a better choice.
The ENTIRE family need to agree on which breed of dog they like. The family needs to work out which would be the best breed to fit in with their individual lifestyle. The answer to the above is research, research and more research! Do not rush into anything and never let your heart rule your head! Resist the temptation to be impulsive! Take your time to be sure that you make the right decision! Never forget that all breeds of dogs are different!
If you are unable to work out which breed is best for your individual circumstances then contact a professional, accredited animal behaviour consultant who will guide you in making the right choice (contact details available at the end of this book). The following will give you an idea of the different groups or categories of the different dog breeds.
(Taken from “The Encyclopaedia of the Dog” by Dr B Fogle)
SIGHT HOUNDS: Bred for speed with aerodynamic build for flying like an arrow after their prey, sight hounds are almost invariably tall, long, lean, lithe running hounds. They are products of selective breeding thousands of years ago breeding as sophisticated as any selective breeding today. All sight hounds emanated from Southwest Asia.
Examples of the breeds are: Greyhound, Afghan Hound, Borzoi, Saluki, Irish Wolfhound, Whippet, etc.
Sight Hounds thrive on physical activity and need regular access to open spaces to run and exercise. They are generally of benign temperaments, but are not overly demonstrative. They are quiet and usually reliable with children. In their purebred form Hounds are not particularly territorial. All Sight Hounds have a strong instinct to chase small animals.
SCENT HOUNDS: While Sight Hounds rely upon vision and great speed to capture or corner prey, Scent Hounds use their noses and profound stamina to wear down “game” and bring the “game” to bay. The Bloodhound, whose membrane lining to its nasal cavity is of a greater surface area than its entire body, is the supreme scent follower. Although dogs use all of their senses when hunting, hearing is relatively unimportant to the Scent Hound. While the Sight Hound chases silently; the Scent Hound hunts methodically, but will bark, howl or bay when it encounters the scent trail of its prey.
Examples of the breeds are: Bloodhound, Basset Hound, Doberman, Harrier, English Foxhound, Beagle, Kerry
Beagle, American Water Spaniel, Rhodesian Ridgeback etc. Scent Hounds are generally amenable, and more
willing to live together than other types of dogs. Their formidable scenting ability is beyond human comprehension.
They possess certain physical characteristics that help them to pick up the faintest scent. For example, their lopped
and generally long ears crate air currents that help them to detect scents and their pendulous, moist lips work as a
wonderful scent ”trap”. The intensity with which these dogs work can be staggering! Some breeds do not have the
killer’s instinct, leaving the dirty work of the hunt to other dogs such as Terriers or to humans.
Scent Hounds are generally reliable with children and other dogs. As a group, they are not as demonstrative as
Terriers nor as affectionate as Companion Dogs or as trainable as Gundogs. Scent Hounds are most content when
working, be it following the trail of a fox or following the paw prints of the last dog that crossed its path.
SPITZ TYPE DOGS: No group of dogs has had a more influential relationship with humans than the Spitz type breeds that evolved throughout the Arctic regions of the world (now known as the Scandinavian countries and as Russia, Alaska, and Canada). The liaison between these dogs and many people living in these harsh regions is highly interdependent. It is likely that the tribes of people along the Arctic islands would not have survived without the help of these versatile canines.
Examples of the breeds are
Siberian Husky, Alaskan Malamute, Eskimo Dog, Pomeranian, Papillon, Finish Spitz, Keeshond, Chow Chow, Schipperke, etc. The anatomy of these breeds is well suited to harsh northern climates. Their coats are dense and have a water-resistant undercoat with thick fur even between their toes. Known to be somewhat aloof, they are not always easy to manage and many breeds require extensive training.
TERRIERS: Terriers evolved from hounds. In appearance, the German Dachshund is a classic example of a Scent Hound miniaturised and dwarfed through selective breeding. Selective breeding was also used to change personality. The Terrier’s aggressive instinct was enhanced so that it would work ruthlessly and efficiently without backing down when confronted by a fox or badger. There is no group of dogs more expert at tunnelling than terriers. These feisty dogs still willingly engage in head-on combat with earth-dwelling mammals on their opponents’ home territories.
Examples of the breeds are: Airedale Terrier, Fox Terrier, Scottish Terrier, Yorkshire Terrier, American Staffordshire Terrier, Bedlington Terrier, Staffordshire Bull Terrier, Jack Russell Terrier, Bull Terrier, Dachshund, etc. As family pets, Terriers are a joy. They love the rough and tumble and have unlimited energy. Often highly active (some bordering on hyperactivity), they do however retain their instinct to nip. Most make excellent pets if trained correctly. If the excessive yapping is controlled from an early age, they can make good city pets and superb watchdogs.
GUNDOGS : For thousands of years Sight and Scent hounds accompanied hunters in search of food or in pursuit of sport. Natural genetic variations of coat texture, length of bone, scenting ability and levels of obedience had always occurred. However, with the introduction of firearms to hunting, breeders took a far greater interest in these other traits. Dog breeding subsequently took a dramatic leap forwards, producing highly responsive and amenable workers. Today these trustworthy breeds are some of the world’s most popular canine companions.
Examples of breeds are: Labrador Retriever, Flat Coated & Golden Retriever, English Pointer, English Springer Spaniel, American Cocker Spaniel, English Cocker Spaniel, English Setter, Irish Setter, German Pointers, Weimaraner, Standard Poodle etc. The Gundog group are considered easier to train than many other groups. Gundogs are almost invariably relaxed with children, are less inclined to fight among themselves than any other breed and in most instances are eager and willing to obey commands.
LIVESTOCK DOGS: When our human hunter-ancestors became cultivators and farmers, the guarding activity of dogs was extended to protecting livestock. Shepherds soon discovered that if dogs were raised with sheep, goats, or cattle from an early age they looked after these animals as if they were members of their own pack. These guardians soon became indispensable.
Examples of the breeds are: German Shepherd, Belgium Shepherd, Border Collie, Shetland Sheepdog, Rough Collie, Bearded Collie, Corgi, Old English Sheepdog, Australian Shepherd, Giant Schnauzer, Bernese Mountain Dog, Bullmastiff, Boxer, Great Dane, Rottweiler, Shar Pei, St Bernard, Newfoundland, Pyrenean Mountain Dog, Bouvier Des Flandes. The herding breeds such as the Border Collie and other Shepherd breeds are often high-activity dogs needing lots of exercise and mental stimulation. Generally good all-round workers, they make good family companions. They do however, need lots of time and energy invested in them. The guarding varieties are less energetic, but can be strong-willed and need a great deal of training due to their size, power and strength.
COMPANION DOGS: All dogs offer companionship. They seem to understand our emotions. Most look upon the people they live with as part of their own community. Even the fiercest dog usually acts like a teddy bear with the people it knows. Almost all cultures in the world keep pets, usually dogs, for no obvious purpose other than companionship. Some breeds evolved for no other functional reason than to offer warmth, company and entertainment. These were generally small breeds, originally created for the amusement of women.
Examples of breeds are: Maltese, Chihuahua, Lhasa Apso, Shih Tzu, Pekingese, King Charles Spaniel, Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, French Bulldog, Pug, Poodles (Medium, and Toy) Dalmatian / which was previously a working dog).
DECIDING ON WHICH BREED IS RIGHT FOR YOUR FAMILY: Breed research, research and more research
It is imperative that you take into account that each individual breed has been specifically designed by humans (using selective genetics and breeding over hundreds of years) in order to perform a particular purpose or job. For example, the Border Collie (part of the “Herding Group”) was originally designed to herd/control sheep. The American Pit Bull Terrier was designed as a killing machine for the barbaric sport of dog fighting. Boxers were bred to bait bulls (hence the flat face) and Jack Russell Terriers were bred to go to “earth” to aid in vermin control.
Often the best family pets are to be found in the “Gundog Group”. With the correct genetics and the right upbringing, breeds such as the Labrador and the Golden Retriever can make wonderful family pets and obedient companions. This group of dogs also includes wonderful breeds such as the Pointer, the Springer Spaniel, the Irish Setter, the Weimararner and many more. The only dog within the “Gundog Group” who is reputed to be a bit short-tempered, is the Cocker Spaniel, as they have a rather “short fuse” and are considered “sharp” by those in the dog world. They do, however, adapt well and thrive with more mature families. The suitability of breeds in the “Gundog Group” is partly due to the fact that many of the breeds in this group were bred to have an exceptionally close bond with people, sometimes more so than with their own kind! Therefore, the adjustment into a human “pack” is very easy for them.
Find out what the breed’s original purpose was, and how this will relate or fit into your lifestyle. For example, if you were an avid roadrunner, an ideal training companion for you would be the Dalmatian. The Dalmatian’s original purpose was to be a carriage dog, (unique among all breeds), to clear a path in populated areas for horse-drawn carriages. For centuries, Dalmatians used to accompany stagecoaches on trips from London to Dover. The horses were changed every 20 miles or so, but the same dog did the entire trip from London to Dover and then still the return trip! In recent times, the Dalmatian was bred as a companion dog. But in years past, it was a superb working dog.
WHEN CHOOSING A BREED, TRY NOT TO BE INFLUENCED BY FASHION!
Dog fashions come and go, rather choose a breed that will suit you, your environment, family’s needs and lifestyle!
Before buying a pup: To help you decide which breed of dog is the “right” choice for you, visit as many of the local dog shows in your area as you can. Watch, learn, look (ask as many questions as you can from both breeders and dog handlers) and listen.
Dog people are usually thrilled to talk about their own particular breed and you can gain valuable information from them. You can also make a point of visiting your local dog obedience training school to give you an idea of which breeds seem to take your fancy, and see for yourself how easy or difficult the different breeds are to work with and train. If you are looking for a dog that is good with kids, see which owners also have (well-behaved) kids interacting with the dogs. This will provide another clue to help you decide which is the breed for you.
Find an obedience school, which uses only “Positive Reinforcement” or reward-based training methods. Today there is no place for abusive training methods with dogs being yanked about on choke chains, pinch collars and other kinds of torture equipment. The dog training school should be a place where owners and dogs alike have fun and learn in a positive, calm and gentle environment.
There are also numerous “breed” books with loads of information about each specific breed and its original purpose. Many of these books include basic breed characteristics. As previously mentioned, you must take into account practicalities like the size of your garden. For example, it would be lunacy to get a high-energy dog like a Border Collie or a Jack Russell Terrier if you live in a tiny-gardened townhouse. That is unless you are at home all day, and are prepared to take the dog out three times a day for a five-kilometre active walk.
You have to consider that high-energy breeds such as the Border Collie were bred expressively as working animals, designed to be able to run for long distances over rough terrain using exceptional concentration and intelligence when herding sheep for many hours at a time! They will not be satisfied with being left in a suburban garden with a handful of toys. They are highly intelligent, extremely agile, very demanding, and can be a quite a handful.
Having a big garden is not enough for high-energy breeds like the Border Collie: Border Collies need loads of mental stimulation, constant challenges, and mental gymnastics, in order to keep them out of trouble. As a breed, they are extremely time-consuming to keep. When Border Collies do not receive enough mental and physical stimulation, they often present with destructive behaviour, digging, chewing, pulling washing off the line, etc. This destructive behaviour is sometimes the only outlet they have to alleviate their frustration. High-energy, excitable breeds are best suited to larger properties, with a family that is in a position to entertain them and keep them occupied.
For example, breeds like the Jack Russell Terrier are notorious for being exceptionally energetic – bordering on hyperactive. They need tons of mental and physical stimulation. With regard to the Jack Russell Terrier - they can also be avid gardeners and are often tenacious hunters!
Fighting breeds such as Pit Bull Terriers, Staffordshire Terriers, Bullterriers, etc, are often totally incompatible with all kinds of other animals. I am not just talking about “dog–on-dog” incompatibilities.
These “fighting” breeds have exceptionally strong “prey drives” (hunting instincts) and it is unusual to find a terrier that is compatible with any small “prey” - type animals. Taking a chance with a pet rabbit or cat - could be disastrous! Some individuals in the “fighting breeds” group have ended up becoming so “dog-on-dog” anti-social, that they are doomed to spend the rest of their lives as “only” dogs! Some individuals have reached such a level of aggression (through genetic selection) that they cannot even be kept with another dog of the opposite sex! This does not appear to be a problem as long as the human “pack” fulfils the animal’s pack needs.
While many of these “Fighting breeds” are wonderful with people and children, it must never be forgotten that this love for people does not extend to other animals especially other dogs and small mammals. Terriers with their strong “prey” drive love to dig out moles and field mice which can cause havoc for a proud gardener. These breeds go way beyond normal puppy exploratory digging. So, if you pride aesthetic perfection in the garden, then you should think very carefully before purchasing a dog in the Terrier group.
Certain “Gun Dog” breeds, such as the Labrador and the Golden Retriever, are also notorious water lovers! This makes sense when one considers that their original purpose was to retrieve birds out of lakes and rivers!
Therefore, if you have a swimming pool and do not like soggy carpets or do not want to be continually cleaning the pool filter (which will become clogged up with dog hair), think very carefully before you choose a water dog!
WHAT IF YOU ALREADY HAVE A DOG?: If you already own a bitch, then taking on a bitch puppy is asking for trouble. It has been found that if there is an incompatibility resulting in aggression between pet dogs, bitches often fight far more intensely than male dogs. If you have an existing dog, only consider buying a dog of the opposite sex, or at some stage, the fur will fly! Should you already have an existing dog in the family, the “compatibility” of the two genetic/breeds also needs to be considered. If you are in any doubt regarding breed compatibility contact an accredited animal behaviour consultant for advice (details at the end of this book).
Introducing a male puppy to an older male dog can also end in disaster. If the older male dog accepts the male puppy when it is little, things usually are fine for the first six to nine months. As soon as the male puppy’s hormones start to develop, then the problems begin. Most (male dog) inter-dog aggression appears to begin when the puppy is about six to eight months of age and usually is at its worst when the puppy’s male hormone – “testosterone” - peaks at about twenty to thirty months of age. If you decide to take on a male puppy to go with your existing male dog, the puppy should be neutered at an early age to prevent status related inter-dog aggression. Do not neuter the existing older dog or they will retain their equality (equal status) In a pack there are no equals - only leaders and followers.
Neutering both dogs can actually increase the aggression as it equalises the “rank or status” of the two males. Just because both animals are of the same species or breed (even if they are related or siblings!) there is no reason that they should specifically like each other on sight. Dogs have tastes, likes and dislikes – just like us. No two dogs are the same! Certain breeds of the same sex do get on better with each other than other specific breeds. Breeds from the “Herding, Gundog and Hound” groups seem to cope better with living together in larger groups than most other breeds.
Keeping fighting breeds with terriers would also be courting disaster.
Often two terriers are unable to live together in peace and harmony due to their natural/genetic “bossiness” or high status. There are certain other breeds that, when put together, can also spell disaster. Breeds with a high natural level of canine “Status or Rank”, such as the Rottweiler, Bullmastiff and the SA Boerboel often have compatibility problems. This natural high level of “status” is not restricted to the large breeds by any means! Small Terriers, including the Yorkshire Terrier, Jack Russell Terrier and the SA Maltese “Poodle” (which is actually a Terrier) are extremely bossy by nature and can cause havoc when mismatched in a family.
Today’s lifestyle also demands that we look at our choice of pet in a different light. Many people (for various reasons including security) now live in complexes. Complex management often demand that residents only keep a small breed of dog. Often these small breeds are prone to yapping and noise pollution - not suitable for life in complexes - especially if they are left alone for the entire day whilst owners are at work. Should you find it impossible to make a good breed choice, contact an accredited animal behaviour consultant who will be able to assist, guide and advise you.
WHERE TO LOOK FOR A “GOOD” PUPPY?
Taken from “Discover Your Puppy’s Paws Abilities”
By Accredited Animal Behavoiur Consultant Louise Thompson (ABC of SA ©®™)
This is a very tough question. The most logical answer is to find a “reputable breeder”.
On paper, this seems easy enough – a quick phone call to the Kennel Union of Southern Africa in Cape Town will provide you with a list of individuals who breed pure bred, registered dogs. However, as “breeders” are they all likely to be “reputable”?
WHAT IS A “REPUTABLE” DOG BREEDER?
· A reputable dog breeder breeds dogs for the betterment of the breed, not to make a fast buck! He does NOT breed a litter and then look for homes for his puppies. He will have a waiting list of prospective (screened) owners BEFORE he even considers mating / breeding a litter.
· Most reputable breeders concentrate on one breed of dog only.
· A reputable breeder will not rush you into making a choice, nor will he pressure you to buy a puppy, nor would he ever permit you to take two puppies at the same time! It is a virtually impossible task to bring up two puppies from the same litter (or two pups of the same age from different litters) in one household. When you have two puppies of similar ages in the same household, the future inter-canine relationship usually ends up with one puppy being a “bully” and the other puppy being a “victim”!
· A reputable breeder will let you view and interact with both the dam (mother) and sire (father) of the puppies at their own establishment.
· A reputable breeder would not meet you at the garage on the side of the highway and tell you that the parents are just lovely!
· If the breeder says that you cannot have contact with either the dam or the sire, BEWARE! If he says that either the sire or the dam is vicious, shy or nervous – get in your car and leave! At least 65% of a puppy’s character and general nature is inherited from his parents! This means that if the “cute” puppy that you are viewing has a “nasty”, “vicious”, or “nervous” Mom or Dad, you could end up with a whole heap of trouble as the “cute” puppy grows to fill his parents’ shoes!
· A reputable breeder does not advertise in “Junk Mail” type publications, nor does he have any need to advertise in the local newspaper. He will already have a good reputation, and people like your local vet, dog trainer, behaviourist or dog-grooming parlour will be able to refer you to him.
· A reputable breeder should be able to give you valuable insight and information regarding history and actual genetics/breeding. In other words, he should be knowledgeable about his breed, its background, characteristics and specific behaviour traits. He should also have knowledge about the specific breed’s genetic faults and behavioural needs.
· A reputable breeder will be able to give you contact addresses of pups that he has bred in the past and actively encourage you to interact with their owners.
· A reputable breeder will also have lifetime contact with the animals that he has bred in the past.
· When looking for an ideal family dog you should preferably look for a breeder who has the litter born and brought up - at least partly, inside the house. This is so that you know that, from an early age, the puppies are used to the various sounds and “goings on” in the home. This will produce a more confident, well-adjusted, socialised puppy. If you have young children, then look for a breeder who also has youngish children. Look at the behaviour of the breeder’s children! If they are obnoxious brats – leave! If the breeder cannot control their children, the odds are that the kids will have teased the puppies and the dogs and they could well end up as highly-strung or nervous individuals due to these early poor interactions. Because of these negative experiences, these pups could also end up hating children!
· A good breeder keeps the dog’s environment, garden, and whelping area clean and free from any flies or other health hazards. All the dogs on the premises should be in good physical condition, have clean coats and be free of parasites (both visual, such as fleas and ticks, and internal such as worms) if the premises of the breeder do not meet with your standards – leave!
WHERE NOT TO PURCHASE A PUPPY
· From a flea market or pet shop. Many of these puppies are bred by unscrupulous “Puppy Farmers” who sell them to dealers who, in turn, unload onto the unsuspecting, gullible public!
· From the side of the road. These dealers often buy from “Mills” or puppy farms. Unscrupulous “Puppy Farmers” often keep random bred dogs and purebred dogs. They often allow the dogs to inter-breed producing “mongrels”.
· The Puppy Farmers’ breeding stock is often kept in appalling conditions. Filthy cages with little or no shelter, and little food. Many deny even basic veterinary care and most of these pups are sickly, small and unhealthy.
· Most of the bitches kept by “Puppy Farmers” are bred with every time they come into “season”, thus producing as many puppies as possible in order for the puppy farmer to make the most amount of money with the least input!
· Many pet shops and flea markets are getting bad reputations as many of the puppies sold by them come from dubious sources.
WHY NOT GIVE THE “POOR” PUPPY A HOME?
It is natural to want to give a puppy a home because you feel sorry for it, especially if you know it has had a “bad” beginning. Our human maternal and paternal instincts want to nurture and protect. However, by purchasing a puppy that has originated from a puppy farmer, you as an individual would be actively encouraging and supporting these unscrupulous parasites of society and helping them to make money.
I personally consider it “DIRTY MONEY” and believe that stricter regulations should be implemented to protect both the animals and the public. Until then, it is the public who, through education and common sense, should actively be encouraged to put them out of business!
THERE IS ONLY ONE SURE WAY TO DO THIS, DO NOT buy puppies from dubious sources!
When purchasing a puppy from dubious sources, there is no way of knowing the puppy’s’ background or early influences. Therefore, behaviourally, they might not be “sound”. You could be looking at serious future behavioural problems, from fear and anxiety to aggression.
As most of the puppies are not even inoculated, they often spread disease. Some of these pups are reported to be sold drugged! Many of them are sickly and there have been numerous reports of puppies dying after being with a new family for only a few days. This is heartbreaking for both the children and the new Mom and Dad. Some dealers will actually give you another puppy (rarely cash) if the one dies within a certain period of time - and this is stated in a purchase agreement! How confident are they of their stock??????
Many of these puppies are bred from behaviourally “unsound” parents. As the pup will inherit at least 65% of his parents’ character, what you see is not necessarily what you get! A large percentage of pups from these dealers end up as unsuitable pets suffering from various behavioural problems. Most are breed rejects - dogs that would not be accepted by the respectable dog breeding fraternity and do not conform to registered breed standards. They are at risk of having inherited genetic health problems such as hip displacia, eye and ear problems and various other genetic based diseases. Most of these pups are unregistered with the Kennel Union of SA, so that the genetics, both positive and negative, are completely unknown.
Now I am not advocating that everyone should rush out and only get purebred registered puppies. Many mixed-breed pups make wonderful companion animals and working dogs. But you must realise that it is a “pot luck” purchase. You will not even be able to judge what the pup will look like when it is a “grown-up” or accurately judge its future size! The advantages of buying a registered pup, from registered stock, from a registered “ethical” breeder, is that you, as the consumer, will know exactly what you are getting in size, shape conformation and character.
If you do not necessarily want a purebred dog with papers, then support your local Shelter, SPCA or Rescue Organisation, and give one of their “Poor Stray’s” A Good Home! In this way, you would be doing Dogdom a service, and saving a life!
Should you be interested in ordering a copy of the soft cover / spiral bound book “Discover Your Puppy’s Paws Abilities” please contact me (Louise) on (011) 969-4467 or 082-890-0905 or per e mail at louthomp@mweb.co.za they are available on order (excluding postage and packaging) and cost R150 each.
The book is a practical no-nonsense guide to choosing and raising the perfect puppy.
Lots of problem solving included in over 145 pages of information and dog knowledge.
For more information please contact Louise
INTRODUCING A NEW PUPPY INTO A MULTI-DOG HOUSEHOLD:
By Louise Thompson
Accredited Animal Behaviour Consultant (ABC of SA ©®™)
Choosing a new puppy is difficult enough, without having to take into account the social hierarchy and genetic compatibilities of the existing dogs in the home. There are numerous questions that need to be asked before you take on the lifetime responsibility of owning another dog. Before bringing a new puppy into a multi-dog household, you should take into account the genetics of the breed that you wish to purchase, and the genetics, sex, age and compatibility of the existing household pack. If you are already having aggression problems with your existing pack, it would spell disaster to introduce another animal into the pecking order.
There have been many cases reported of adult dogs mauling and killing young puppies. You also need to take into account the age and sex of your existing dog/s. Elderly dogs can be pestered into reacting to young puppies, who constantly demand to be entertained. If an elderly dog reacts negatively the entire pack can join in, once again ending in tragedy.
If your existing dog’s basic behavioural needs are not currently being adequately met, it can also go horribly wrong. For example, if your existing dog/s are not exercised off the property regularly, or given enough (appropriate) mental stimulation, or have never been trained or socialised, they will have exceptionally low tolerance levels, and few life skills to fall back on if anything goes wrong (life skills are learnt by experience.) Bear in mind also, that if you are having any other behavioural problems with your existing dogs, such as destructive behaviour, excess barking, or noise phobia’s, the young pup, when “mentored” by the existing dogs, could very well end up exhibiting the same problems. Puppies learn from example, and if they have poor role-models, you could very well end up with a group of dogs, all exhibiting the same behaviour negative behaviour traits!
The relationship between the humans and the existing dogs also needs to be taken into account. For example, if the existing dogs are overindulged, over-privileged brats, they might not take well, to a new puppy “underdog”, who will most likely, take away much valuable attention from their owners.
Some dogs are never able to get on with other dogs, no matter what you do, or how hard you try. These individuals are often found in the “fighting” group of dog breeds. Breeds like the Bullterrier, and the Staffordshire Terrier, were genetically engineered by man, for the cruel sport of dog fighting, whilst they are often wonderful with humans, this love of people does not extend itself to other dogs, or any small mammals.
I know of many Staffordshire Terriers who have to spend their lives in “one dog households” because of their intolerance of their own kind. This does not seem to present a problem as long as their behavioural and emotional needs are met.
WHICH BREEDS ARE GENERALLY COMPATIBLE? Gundogs are probably well known as being one of the best breeds to have as a household companion animal. They are also pretty laid back in the aggression stakes, and usually tolerant and even natured. All of which bodes well for introducing a new pup. Breeds in this group include Golden Retrievers, Labrador Retrievers, Pointers, and Setters. With Gundogs, often you can even get away with mixing them with a passive natured Terrier and of course one of the Herding Breeds. Herding breeds also tend to get along well together with other herding breeds. So often you can be very successful to mix breeds like the German Shepherd Dog and Border Collies for example. This is also due to the genetics, of being primarily developed to work together, for man. Herding breeds and Gundogs also often mix well together.
WHICH BREEDS ARE OFTEN INCOMPATIBLE? Terriers put with other Terriers are usually a no go, as are mixing Terriers and Guarding breeds. That is a recipe for disaster! Extreme care should be taken when considering introducing any animal into a group or even an individual dog within one of the “Fighting” breeds as they have an extremely high “Prey” drive (hunting instinct) and putting a helpless put in that position could end in tragedy! Little snappy dogs often will not accept pups that are going to grow up to be big pushy dogs. Dogs bred mainly for companions also generally do not mix well with the Guarding breeds.
It is worthwhile to find out what the original purpose of your breed was. It will give you an idea of how to meet his needs, both behavioural and physical i.e. exercise and mental stimulation and help you to decide whether you should bring in another pup into the group. If you are unsure of the compatibility of your existing pack and a prospective puppy, contact an accredited animal behaviour consultant for advice and guidance.
HOW TO START
On acquiring a new puppy - once you have him home, do not immediately thrust him into the stressful experience of meeting your own dogs – or indeed even your human family at one time.
Puppies need lots of peace and quiet and time, in order to be able to adjust to new surroundings and the excitement of a new environment, new people, and other pets.
Start by introducing you human family to the new pup, one at a time, and make sure any noisy, or naughty children, are well supervised. Do not let young children play, pick up, or tease a young puppy – EVER! Any bad experience at this tender age can have permanent, lasting results. Thus, the basic rule is that no child is ever left unsupervised, with any dog at any time! The same “calm – unhurried” logic applies when introducing a new pup to the rest of the existing pack.
You should use the “gradual accustomisation” method. Baby steps – adding only one small new person / animal / situation at a time – time and patience is the key here!
A good idea, which also aids in ensuring your puppies safety, is to crate train your new puppy, and introduce him (safe and snug in his crate) to the other dogs one at a time.
At no time in the beginning stages of this developing / budding relationship, should your puppy be left unsupervised with any of the adult, existing dogs. Another idea is to have a trailing line on the older dog that you are introducing, so that you can calmly intervene and redirect the adult dog, (without as little fuss as possible), if things start to get out of hand, or indeed, if you see things beginning to go wrong. If the older (existing dog) acts negatively – do not scold him or punish him in any way. Calmly (without saying a word or giving commands) pick up the end of his trailing house line and pop him outside (alone) for a few minutes of doggie reflection. After a few minutes “doggie time out”, he is permitted back inside the room again for a second (third, fourth, fifth, sixth – tenth chance). Give him a few minutes to settle and then if he growls or looks threateningly at the puppy – then simply repeat the “doggie time out” experience.
You will need to find ways to get the existing dog/s to associate the puppy with some wonderful, positive experience. The second that the older dog looks relaxed and his body language is positive (nice windmill wagging tail – soft facial muscles, and relaxed body language), reward him with lots of verbal praise and a high value treat.
At this stage, YOU SHOULD NOT TAKE ANY NOTICE OF THE PUPPY – WHO NEEDS TO FEEL IGNORED (as this is the natural order of a pack – last one in gets the least privileges and/or attention). If you give the puppy too much attention (in some cases even to the degree of eye contact), the older dog will have to defend his status, and this could negatively affect their future relationship. In fact, in general, whilst in the presence of any of the existing dogs, the puppy should be ignored. You can provide him with extra attention “one-on-one”, when the other dogs are not present.
The second the older dog looks relaxed or less stressed – praise verbally and pop him a high value treat. These high value treats should be reserved for ONLY when he is in the puppy’s presence or when interacting with the puppy. Initially, have the older dog on leash for control and discipline. Then you can progress to having the older dog free - (but on a longer house-line for safety), and start to facilitate “controlled” introductions.
Once the pup and one existing dog are coping (with the pup still safely in his crate) then you may introduce the second of your multi dog household, and repeat the same logic used as before. This should initially be “one-on-one” dog introductions. It is too soon to expose the puppy to the whole pack.
Don’t forget to ensure that each and every time the existing dog comes in contact with the puppy – something wonderful has to happen. A meal – a special game a special training session – whatever turns the older dog on.
The next step is to gradually introduce a second dog, and then the third and so on and so forth. Start with introducing the highest-ranking dog first and then if possible introduce the rest of the group in rank or pecking order. Once they are all together – with puppy still safe in his crate you are ready for the next step. The next step is to become brave enough to let them interact together FREE. This sometimes is very stressful for owners – who if they show their fears, could make maters worse! Again, a good idea is to introduce the puppy to one member of the pack at a time. If the owners have ANY CONCERNS regarding the puppy’s safety.
The existing older pack members should be gradually accustomised to wearing a plastic full cage muzzle. This takes about five to ten days, and is achieved through the use of treats and other positive associations. The following accustomisation programme is then to be undertaken in regards to getting them used to the muzzles.
THE HAPPY MUZZLE: A plastic cage muzzle is the most suitable one to use. It should fit snug around the dogs neck and loose enough around the face to facilitate panting. Many dogs learn to drink water and even eat treats whilst wearing a cage muzzle. The neck strap should be tied or attached to the dogs collar to ensure that he is not able to wriggle or buck out of the muzzle.
Once you have obtained a suitable full muzzle which fits each dog well, then you should begin to very gradually accustomise the dogs to wearing their muzzle. To avoid any increase in stress levels and to teach the dogs that wearing the muzzle is a pleasant experience do not just put it on and hope for the best! To get the dog used to wearing the happy muzzle is a GRADUAL desensitising process, as follows:-
RULES AND METHOD
· Be very calm and matter of fact about the whole thing – we do not want the dog to think it is a big deal!
· Initially let the dog sniff the muzzle, while giving it a tit bit, several times a day.
· Once the dog is calm, and not showing any signs of fear of the muzzle, it can then be CASUALLY slipped onto the head. DO NOT FASTEN IT YET! Just slip it on and then straight off – then reward with the tit-bit. Again, repeat several times a day – until the dog is calm, confident and comfortable with the procedure.
· Once the dog is coping with it, being put/slipped on the head you will begin to see the dog’s attitude of positive association towards the muzzle, with the reward.
· This from the dog’s point of view should be a pleasant rewarding experience. We do not want to make the dog afraid of the muzzle, or try to force it on, as this would raise the stress and anxiety levels of the dog, and again, we would be looking at possible other behavioural problems developing from force. Especially if the dog/s in question has had no previous training or mental/physical stimulation.
· The next step is to slip it on, over the head, and fasten the catch just for a couple of seconds – remove and then and give the dog a treat. In the beginning, remember to take it off immediately and praise/reward – repeat this several times a day, for the first couple of days.
· After that, work up to keeping it on for a second or two. Then remove and reward.
· This is NEVER to be used or associated by the dog with punishment; the dog is to think that having the muzzle put on is a huge treat!
· Gradually over a period of time start to leave it on a bit longer and longer. Put it on and then take it off before rewarding times, such as feed times, play time, and before walks.
· Once the dog is coping and happy with wearing the muzzle for a slightly longer period then ….
· You can pop is on just before taking him for a walk (if there are two dogs – please walk them separately during this period)
· Only leave the muzzle on the dog for extended periods of time, (and then only under your SUPERVISION) once the dog is happy and confident, showing you that he associates wearing it with praise and reward.
· You will soon see that the dog will show you by his positive response when he sees the muzzle, that he thinks it is a wonderful thing! He should be pleased and excited to see it and have it fitted on!
You now have a muzzle happy dog. Safe to be around both with other animals and people, and you have not stressed him out or affected your relationship with him in any negative way at all! NOTE: If at any time during the desensitisation period, the dog regresses, revert back one stage in the programme, until you reach a level where the dog coped, and then work from that stage of the desensitisation programme. When the actual free introduction is performed – the muzzle should be tied/secured to the collar at the back of the dogs neck so that the dog can not slip it off over its head.
As soon as the dogs are accustomised to wearing their muzzles – a controlled introduction on neutral ground should be performed. It is important that the area where the introduction occurs is neutral, as this will prevent any of the higher-ranking dogs from needing to defend territory or establish further status. Ideally a fenced off area would be a great advantage. Don’t forget to ignore the younger pup and give the older pack members lots and lots of attention and wonderful high value treats if they are interacting well.The area that is used for the introduction should not be too large – as the pup might feel threatened, but it should be large enough for the puppy and the dog to be able to keep out of each other’s ways if they so desire.
As with the initial crate controlled introduction – you should start with the alpha dog. Once coping with the alpha then slowly introduce the others. Once the entire group have been introduced individually, then the next step is to start introducing more than one at a time. This needs to be done gradually, until you achieve harmony with the entire group. As before I also suggest that you have the adult dogs on a trailing line, so that you are able to intervene with minimum fuss if things look like they need to be de-fused. Once a positive outcome is achieved on neutral ground you should then begin to perform the same in your own garden and then indoors during quiet times such as when watching television etc. Gradually – over a period of time you will begin to put the dogs in slightly more stressful situations together (still muzzled) and see how they cope.
If at any time they regress – you should return to the stage of the programme where they were coping. Repeat until you feel that they are more stable and then move onto the next stage.
Don’t forget that not all dogs accept new puppies. There are many things that have to be taken into account. The amount of social interactions the existing dogs have been exposed to: The level of their natural tolerance: Early experiences: Levels of exposure to different dogs and animals: Life skills learnt: And – most of all – breed genetics – some breed just don’t get on with others!
In the next issue we will cover getting puppy home and the first few days – tips and hints in more detail!
AGILITY TRAINING
We are thrilled to announce that our New Agility class is FINALLY starting on Saturday the 7th February.
Please note that in order to accommodate the different disciplines held each Saturday. AFTERNOON CLASSES ARE TO BROUGHT FORWARD, AS FROM THE 7TH FEBRUARY.
Below are the new time slots and a brief description of the Saturday classes on offer.
There has been a lot of interest in the agility class from handlers who are currently already training in the afternoon classes, therefore the new time slots make a lot of sense, as handlers and dogs will already be on the training grounds.
The new class structure and times, will save everyone time, petrol and resources.
Should you wish to enrol in our Agility class, please contact
Mandy at 082495-2050 or (011) 967-1158
PLEASE NOTE CLASS TIME CHANGES BELOW
Existing Time
NEW TIME
CLASS
Instructor
08.00 AM 10.00 AM 10:00 AM
13:00 PM
13:00 PM
13:00 PM
15:00 PM
15:00 PM
15:00 PM
NEW-CLASS
Unchanged
Unchanged
Unchanged
12:30 PM
12:30 PM
12:30 PM
14:00 PM
14:00 PM
14:00 PM
15:30 PM
Early Puppy Education Group 1 & 2
Puppy 3
Introduction to Clicker Training Introduction to Obedience Training
Social Obedience Beginners Class
Obedience Elementary Beg/Beginners
Social Advanced Class
Dog Sports Class
Obedience - Novice / C
Agility Class
Louise/Maureen
Louise
Siobhan
Louise
Siobhan
Rose
Maureen
Mandy
Rose
Mandy & Louise
INCREASE IN TRAINING FEES:
Please note that as from March, training fees will increase to R180.00 per month. All new students will be required to pay two months fees in advance and a joining fee of R100.00, which includes a training booklet – a grand total of R460 on registration (remember all fees are payable in advance). The Agility class is R200.00 per month, a portion of which will be put into a savings account to be used for maintenance or new equipment.
We are very aware of the prices charged by other schools/clubs, and we are proud to say that we still offer the most diverse training and generally provide the best facilities (which we continually strive to improve). In saying that, we the instructors, would like to take this opportunity to thank each of our students for your loyal support. Without you we have no school.
TOP DOGS ASSESSMENT
“Touch Our Pets” a community based animal assisted therapy organisation is having an assessment at the Paws Abilities Behaviour and Learning Centre training grounds on the 22nd February 2009.
Top Dogs are looking for happy, well socialised dogs who love people and who have the right attributes to undertake these social based interactions. The dogs do not have to be show dog obedience trained but owners do need to have basic leash control over their dogs and most importantly, the dogs need to possess an excellent temperament. In fact, the most important prerequisite is temperament – both a good temperament and tolerance towards people, and also a good tolerance towards other dogs. Before the dogs and handlers are permitted to go on a “visit” to any facility, they must have succeeded through the evaluation process, be a member of the TOP Dogs group (which also includes things like indemnity/liability coverage, veterinary certificates / proof of good health / regular internal and external parasite control etc) and have undergone life skills situational experiences with the group, who meet on a regular basis to provide their dogs with life skills. This is to ensure that the dogs are well prepared and have the correct attributes not only to do the job, but to enjoy the whole experience.
The dogs and handlers are to be put through their paces under the watchful eye of accredited animal behaviourist Louise Thompson at Paws Abilities in Benoni. This wonderful group of dedicated handlers and their dogs do a wonderful job both conducting visits to the elderly in care, hospitals, child care facilities, and are also involved in school education – educating children in both pet care and other aspects of pet care and prevent a bite.
Anyone who wishes to have their dog evaluated to see if he/she is a suitable candidate for this wonderful work or would like more information about the programmes can contact Angie Thornton at act@icon.co.za or myself (Louise) at louthomp@mweb.co.za
Any dog/s who does NOT make it through the assessment will be able to take advantage of chatting to our animal behaviourist/professional dog trainer – Louise, at the end of the afternoon, who is more than happy to help point them in the right direction, provide advice and make suggestions on how to help/improve. Often a dog who “fails” – with a little bit of effort from owners and the correct handling, can become a wonderful therapy dog. So there are really no such things a failure!
PONDERINGS OVER ANIMALS USED IN THERAPY:
By Louise Thompson Accredited Animal Behaviour Consultant (ABC of SA ©®™)
I wrote this article in (1996) and most of it still rings true!
Recently I was asked to begin a programme of animal therapy for a child (a twelve year old boy) who was receiving therapy for severe head trauma, resulting from injuries received in a car accident.
A Social Worker based at the hospital where the boy was receiving treatment approached me and asked if I was prepared to begin visits to the hospitalised child. Having been involved with similar visits for some years, I felt that it was a good idea, and volunteered my services.
The Social Worker said that she wanted the child to develop “a relationship” with a dog – and it was then that I heard the first warning bells! This was to be “one on one” therapy to see how, and if, the child responded to various interactions with a dog. I suddenly had lots of questions, and some serious misgivings, that were not relevant when dealing with group situations.
After discussions with many of my colleagues and a friend who specialised in psychology, it was felt that in this particular case, my fears were somewhat unfounded, BUT, it did leave rather a lot of questions unanswered for other cases, and the possible pitfalls that could occur with the PEOPLE handling some of the cases involving animal assisted therapy (i.e. handlers/facilitators and hosting staff/nurses therapists etc)
I felt that there are many hidden dangers not previously considered, some of the concerns that came to mind were: -
Over-bonding, of the child to the dog and/or the handler. If the therapy is in a group form, there is little chance of the children over-bonding with a single dog, as the dog “does the rounds”, and the children have to “share” the visit. As a matter of interest I sought professional advise from my psychologist friend who specialises in children – who confirmed all my fears!
As animal behaviour consultants, we can safely evaluate our animal’s suitability for human animal relationships. The facilitator or animal handler is NOT however, qualified to Asses the HUMAN FACTOR! In the case of social interactions, like healthy old age pensioners for example, we can safely cope. The organisation hosting the event will have instructed facilitators/handlers on the more practical aspects of the visit (mind out for Mrs Jones arthritic elbow etc!)
These social interactions are based on “Free” contact, giving a sense of touch, warmth and contact with the animal. The “Power of Group” also comes into play. Kids in hospital wards benefit by a bright cheerful introduction (likewise a group situation).
The factors that are common to both of these examples are: - The care staff, have instructed handlers/facilitators – of the general needs of the group, with the supervision of institute staff, a trained animal, a friendly handler/facilitator, the “Power of the Group” takes over.
In these sessions, the handler and usually vary from session to session. Often a roster is created. This is good, as a feeling of sharing develops. It would also be unreasonable to expect a single handler/facilitator to give of their time and costs thereof, on an individual basis. This in itself could cause stress for both handler/facilitator and the dog – if the intensity of the visits are too high.
From the above it is clear that both handlers and dogs are controlled by the requirements of the institutions and the needs of the particular group.
BUT – When animals are used for a definite therapeutic motive – as opposed to social interactions, the aims must be more clearly defined. The handler/facilitator and animal must be carefully matched to the situation, which is where the animal behaviour consultant may assist, in evaluating the realistic expectations of the animal’s function.
The most important factor has to be the patient. As animal behaviour consultants, we are in no position to evaluate patients! It is not our job! This is the function of the patients medical / psychological team.
In my experience, little or no research is done by many of the caregivers / therapists etc, as to what their realistic expectations of the animal and facilitator/handler, or indeed how both handler/facilitator and animal may best be utilised for each individual case.
In one case that I was facilitating – I was informed (by therapy staff) that my fears of –over-bonding with either myself, or the therapy dog, were groundless, as the child was retarded!!! After checking with my psychologist friend, in fact the opposite was true! In this particular case I terminated the visits, as my dog and I were being used as punishment, when the child was un-cooperative with his physical therapist!!!
One does not have to be a rocket scientist to work that this sort of “Emotional Russian Roulette” would be downright dangerous to any patients emotional well-being, and when push comes to shove, to a degree, we as individuals have to trust our instincts, and our integrity, and if we are at all uncertain, or have any questions, we need to research the subject, ask questions, seek opinions of our peers, and do not stop until the answers are satisfactory!
The psychologist with whom various aspects was discussed with suggested to me that the idea scenario would be to have a suitably trained, evaluated, companion dog, ready and waiting for the child upon release from the hospital, although in my opinion this is not always practical in the long term, as who would be available to monitor the relationship and ongoing training, and perform the necessary follow-up visits, as it is obvious if the relationship was not followed through it could in fact end in more damage than good being done!
If the therapy is to be a “one on one” basis with a single animal, what safeguards are in place to prevent any larger problems – such as the earlier example of the child over-bonding with either animal or facilitator, which could possibly, severely traumatise any child if the visits were suddenly terminated, or the dog dies, was ill or suddenly changed. As behaviourists or therapy assistants/facilitators we are not trained to pick up or deal with such problems!
Harm could be done for example, through inappropriate interaction or words (often institute staff speak about patients in their presence, as if the patient does not exist!!!)
It only takes one thoughtless word from a facilitator or a staff member and emotional damage can be irreversible!
There could be a depression due to an animal leaving, or even its death, with the subsequent emotional loss when an animal is withdrawn or changed. The rotation of different animals and handlers/facilitators would be more advisable in these kinds of cases.
Where does our responsibility begin and end? Often there is an overlap, between the behaviourist, the handler/facilitator and the therapist/social worker/psychologist/councillor.
We have to know and understand just where our expertise lies! We cannot put a single patient at risk emotionally! As behaviourists we may be able to judge the correct attributes needed in the therapy dog, but what of the patient/client?
Are there qualified persons available and willing to evaluate their condition and progress?
The other question that came to mind was, what of the person handling such an animal? Where are these people being recruited? Who is going to train them? Who is available to monitor and control them? Who is going to make sure that they are suitable, both emotionally and physically for such interactions?
Many patients will look and behave and act very differently from “normal” people Some are not very pleasant to look at – some are verbally abusive – some drool and dribble.
Is the handler emotionally prepared for this kind of challenge?
Not every handler/facilitator – no matter how noble their motives, is suitable for this kind of work! The handler and the animal have to be the “Tool” for the therapy – part of the background – a cheerful duo, who is there, merely to assist in the road to recovery or comfort and well being of the patient!
Staff, at the various institutions also need to be educated, in how to deal with such visits. Many of the sessions are “one on one” basis, in which the patient’s caregiver should be present to access the therapy and monitor the progress and results.
Records should be meticulously kept, of progress and methodology of sessions, which can be used for reference when dealing with similar cases.
The human mind is extremely complex, and as animal behaviour consultants we are Not qualified to evaluate or address this aspect of care-giving of therapy.
Guidelines are needed, and should be made available to all facilitators/handlers - as to the best therapy approaches, and type of animal to be used for each individual case, as there are so many variables to consider bringing in a “nice calm socialised dog”. The age, sex, and type of patient would need to be taken into account.
For example - some people are badly intimidated, by large formidable looking dogs. If so, a smaller dog or other less intimidating species would be necessary.
Mobility of the patient would also need to be considered. Often smaller animals are more practical to use, but can have higher energy levels – is this advantageous to a patient? I could go on and on ……..
Does any form of back up exist from psychologists or professionals persons to prevent things getting out of hand? If we as behaviourists have concerns – whom can we approach for guidance and help?
Certain Animal Behaviourists are qualified to evaluate and prepare the right temperament of dog for these interactions – but what about the “other” groups and individuals who are performing this service, often with little animal behaviour or training knowledge and/or experience?.
An in-depth knowledge of dog breeds, temperaments, normal and abnormal canine behaviour is needed, to be successful when working with these situations as a handler, facilitator or when advising a therapist.
The more I thought the more questions emerged, and to date many of them have been left unanswered, but my main concern is still the “one on one” and I believe that very careful planning and research is needed to avoid the pitfalls that were outlined above. A long-term overview, considering all of the many aspects involved would be essential.
HOW TO FIND A “GOOD” DOG TRAINING SCHOOL
By Louise Thompson Accredited Animal Behaviour Consultant (ABC of SA©®™)
Often it is so very difficult to find a good, dog training school. This is especially true in the outlying areas where schools seem to be stuck in the “dark ages” of dog training. Believe me that there are alternatives and indeed many excellent training establishments out there.
NEVER SEND YOUR DOG AWAY TO BE TRAINED “IN HOUSE” AT ANY TRAINING KENNEL - WHY????
Because you have no idea of how the dog is being treated, cared for, and most importantly what training methods are being used!!! Most of these establishments charge huge sums of money and because of time constraints, and will usually employ quick fix methods. Most of which involve force, and “breaking” the dogs spirit, to ensure it complies (do it or else!) This is very frightening when one must consider that statistics estimate that 95% of aggression is based in FEAR! Therefore, logically the “in house” training programme could trigger or cause your dog to “learn” to be aggressive as an exaggerated form of self-defence!
Owners need to be taught how to train their own dogs. This is in order to develop a good bond, and ensure the development of a good co-operative working relationship. A working relationship cannot be based on the master/servant concept of fear learning; it should rather be a relationship of cooperation and mutual RESPECT!
ALSO BEWARE OF LUDICROUS CLAIMS – SUCH AS POISON-PROOFING A DOG!
Many unscrupulous dog trainers make wild claims in order to make a fast buck. With the current epidemic of dog poisonings I have seen loads of adverts to “poison proof” dogs. Please know this claim is nonsense. Dogs are natural scavengers and will probably eat anything they come across that appears appealing.
Through harsh aversion techniques, many dogs can be taught not to take food from strangers – So what! Most poisonings occur whilst the owners are at work or if the dog is left to sleep outside and rarely given by hand as it is usually thrown over the wall. So teaching them not to take food from strangers is a pointless waste of time effort and energy. Rather bring the dog indoors at night where he is safe, and each morning before going to work check the garden for anything edible that does not below there. Sausages are often tied with wire and the “two step” poison laced inside. The dog gulps it down and if the perpetrator / culprit has worked out the correct dose – (they have more practice now) the dog will often be dead within a few seconds.
With regards to poison checking each morning – it is advisable to remove all dense ground cover and heavy shrubbed areas, as it is very difficult to find poison which often will be thrown in such areas to avoid detection! Prevention is better than cure! Remember that there is no such thing as reliable poison proofing of dogs – it goes against their basic genetic make up!
BACK TO FINDING A GOOD DOG TRAINING SCHOOL
If you reside in an outlying area and need to find a positive reinforcement school in your area then you should view the Animal Behaviour Consultants of SA website for a list of “approved” schools www.animal-behaviour.org.za or you can drop me a line and I will refer you to the nearest reputable facility in your area.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN A GOOD DOG SCHOOL:
No dog deserves to be abused when being “trained”!
Winning prizes is not the most important thing to look for. Don’t be fooled by the trophies on the wall! Some trainers need their students to win at all costs, and this sometimes can be at the expense of the dog’s well being, comfort or happiness!
Before enrolling in a class, visit the school first WITHOUT YOUR DOG, (as an observer). This is because many people feel obligated to “join in a class” when pressured from dog training instructors. If you don’t have your dog with you, and you feel that the school is unsuitable or you don’t approve of the methods etc you will not feel obliged to join – until you feel that it is a safe, pleasant environment, and the training methods are acceptable, and then note the following;-
WHEN CHECKING OUT A DOG TRAINING SCHOOL:
· Do the dogs look happy and relaxed? Are the people friendly and sociable?
· Is everyone shouting at his or her dogs – screaming, “Leave” and “Foui”? Dogs are not deaf - their hearing is considerably better than ours – why do people shout? All shouting does, is to teach the dog to ignore the owner? Is there a lot of dog on dog aggression?
· Can the school refer you to people who have completed their training at the school for references
· Does the instructor enquire if there are any problems at home with the dog, and either offers appropriate advice and/or refers the student to a professional ABC.
· What other facilities do they possess – how many disciplines do they teach?
· Do they have a good all round knowledge of the different disciplines – many often overlap each other therefore a good working knowledge is essential.
· Are the facilities dog friendly – shade, water, escape-proof fencing etc
· Are you able to see proof of instructors qualifications?
· Are they able to provide you with answers to your questions?
· What kind of equipment are the handlers using?
· Would you consider the training equipment cruel? Spike collars and even Check/choke chains if used incorrectly can cause severe damage to muscle and tendons and even the spine of a dog.
Some schools even use electric shock collars! In my opinion - this kind of torture equipment should have gone out with the Spanish Inquisition! Jerking dogs off their feet, yanking them into the “correct” position - or as a punishment if they dare to voice a fearful growl, or even hanging them up in tree’s (by the choke chain & leash) until they loose consciousness IS NOT TRAINING (yes people actually do this, and condone it, telling you it is training!) In my book, this is not learning, it is abuse! The sadist’s, who tell you this is the way to train dogs, should find another occupation.
WHAT YOU SHOULD BE LOOKING FOR:
· A friendly, fun, safe, environment for both the dog and handler
· Humane, gentle training methods, either using food/toy gentling motivation.
· Positive reinforcement methods are the only way to train a confident, sound, stable, dog.
· Minimum or no aggression between the dogs. The trainer should have enough experience and expertise Never to permit aggression to develop in class. The trainer should be able to “defuse” any potential aggression before it erupts!
· A dog training class is not an appropriate platform for solving serious behaviour problems. Difficult dogs should have private sessions and/or behaviour modification (with a qualified behavioural consultant) before they are permitted to work in a class.
· No instructor or handler should ever loose his temper with either a dog or handler, but should always show empathy and understanding of both dog and handler problems.
And so - I will now climb onto my next soapbox!
CHOKE CHAINS – SHOULD THEY NOT BE BANNED? OR ARE THEY?
By Louise Thompson accredited animal behaviour consultant. ABC of SA ©®™
In an earlier issue of our newsletter, we discussed the physical damage that could be done when training with a choke chain including orthopaedic damage to neck and spine, and other statistics showing permanent damage to tendons, ligaments etc. Many readers were outraged at the statistics and rightly so. Even if a dog wearing a choke chain is not yanked, what happens if he sees a cat, or decides to lunge out at another dog in the park – passing someone’s gate??? – the result is the same as if he were yanked by the owner deliberately– as soon as he reaches the end of the leash – zap – the whiplash effect can cause permanent injure.
My personal view is that training should always be a pleasant experience for dog and owner. The use of choke chains or check chains or whatever you want to call this benign looking bit of “training equipment” is widespread. Just take your dog for a walk in the park and you will see that the majority of dogs are walked wearing choke chains. Why?
I did a little experiment in our local park, and actually asked a sample group of owners (30 different owners over a period of a couple of weeks in several local parks in the Gauteng area) a few simple questions about what their dogs were wearing and why. The questions and answers were the following:-
Was the dog difficult to hold and was that why a choke chain was used? 64% said yes and that was the reason they used the device.
There are numerous gentle kinds of training equipment that help restrain a strong, difficult dog such as a dog headcollar, various no pull harness’s (we have a wonderful one that we have designed with “Dog On” products that reduces pulling by 85% - we call it the ABS harness) Owning a strong dog is no reason to use a device that causes pain and can injure a dog.
Did the dog try and wriggle out of a “normal” collar and was that the reason the choke chain was used?
40% stated that that was the case
A limited slip adjustable collar or a good design harness eliminates the ability for a dog to wriggle out of a flat collar
Was the dog vicious - 80% said No
Did the dog receive any formal training
50% said yes, and stated that they have undergone training at a dog training club or school – most had undergone a couple of months course to correct “problems” all stated that they had been taught to use leash and choke chain as a “correction” when the dog did not listen or was naughty or showed any kind of aggression. The ignorance is frightening.
Did the owner have any form of disability to cause them to feel a choke chain provided more control 99% said No
What other reason was the dog wearing a choke chain
99% stated they had never questioned the use of the choke chain – and mostly used them because “they had always used them”.
Education of the public at large is vital
Had they ever considered using any other method to correct the unwanted behaviour or “naughtiness” or “aggression”?
90% stated that they were not aware of any other method except corrections and punishment!
Most traditional dog training schools advocate the use of force as a means of learning and discipline. Most people who are not educated in dog training go to dog school to seek help with a problem. When confronted with such bully tactics they are generally unaware of any alternatives.
After questioning beginner handlers as to why they are being so harsh on their pet the answer is usually – but that is what the trainer said at the dog school. The trainer says we are not firm enough with the dog. The trainer says we must shout louder, yank the leash harder, correct more severely – so that the dog ‘gets the message”! What message is that - I would like to know.
Sadly the message is that the dog can not trust his owner, any hope of a good relationship quickly fades away, and the dog is often fearful of his owner and then often exhibits avoidance behaviour when put in such situations.
This is so very sad! After having abolished the use of any potentially damaging device at our school many, many years ago I just find it so difficult to understand that the very person who genuinely loves their dog – “it’s our baby” – would follow the instructions of some sadistic moron. I wonder what those same people would do if their teacher at their childs school told them to beat their child – would they???
Some breeds pull more than others – I have seen breeds such as Staffordshire Terriers with bleeding necks totally devoid of fur – what freaks me out, is that the owner will still have a choke chain on – they don’t even see or even associate the damage with the choke chain!!! Bare in mind also, that most animals mask symptoms of pain as a defence or survival mechanism. This does not mean they don’t feel pain!!!! Just that to show pain, would be to make themselves vulnerable!
THE PERPLEXING LAW: Now here’s the thing – and I would love someone in the “know” to please explain to me, when under the SA Animal Protection Act there is a clause, that says something to the effect that –
“it is an offence to attach any device to an animal that could cause pain or discomfort” – prey tell me, what other use, apart from causing pain and discomfort would a choke chain have? (I use them to fasten the gates so that the horses cant open the gates – they do work well for that purpose I grant you that!)
It appears that it is not an offence to sell or buy or use a choke chain – it all lies in the technical interpretation of the law, it is only an offence to misuse a choke chain. I want to know how do you NOT misuse a choke chain?
Now I don’t pretend to be the brightest light on the Christmas Tree, but logically to all intents and purposes - placing a choke chain connected to a leash on a dog (that is in my humble opinion) can not be interpreted any other way, than a direct, intent to cause pain/discomfort. So, does that mean that it can only be considered an offence if the dog moves forward and chokes itself – what? How does that make sense.
OK - So does it mean that it can only be an offence if a handler actively yanks the leash – how does that work?
Or is it only an offence if the handler knew that a yank on the leash that is connected to a slip/choke chain could cause damage??
Or - Does it mean that when the handler puts on the choke chain you have to prove that he deliberately planned to damage it’s trachea or neck tendons, or misalign its spine! Oh dear – I am now totally confused!
I realise that under the law, intent has to be proven, - but heck, how much logic does it take???
What about ignorance being no excuse for breaking the law???
What is frightening, is that prong or pinch collars (which look like objects directly out of a medieval torture chamber) actually do less damage than the benign looking little choke chain. The pinch collar generally pinches the skin without bruising the muscle and it’s scissor action is very painful – thus trainers say it is very “effective” when used to “correct” a dog.
Bye the way with regards to choke chains - the thinner the chain links, the more damage it does – and the more painful they are. However, the thicker wider links of the thicker choke chains – especially the square link ones, nip the skin as well! Of course I find both devices abhorrent and all such collars are totally banned at Paws Abilities (unless we use them on the handlers – mmmnn sometimes tempting!)
The Vast Majority of dog training schools, still continue to advocate and actively use force and pain as a means of learning. Such barbarism (including corporal punishment) has long been banned in our human children’s schools but we continue to make excuses for abuse against animals in the guise of “training methods!”
I regularly get new recruit students at our dog school, whose pets often arrive wearing the dreaded “choke chain”. I gently inform the prospective student that they are not permitted at Paws Abilities – as we do not permit force methods of learning. Many stand and try to argue their point – which comes in 99 versions of the advantages of the “beast”. My normal response is to calmly ask them to hang on a minute and then I go to my old dog training bag, (carefully packed for such an opportunity) and fish out an oversized choke chain, left over from the “dark ages”, go up to the new student with a smile, and say. “Here is a nice choke collar, I tell you what, I’ll just slip it on over YOUR head, do a bit of heelwork with you wearing it – give you a few gentle tugs – and if you think that it feels ok when I do it to you – then I will allow you to use one on your dog!” The reaction rages from outrage to humour – but the rule is for everyone – no exceptions!
Surely it is logical that if something doesn’t feel good on a human – if it hurts the human neck – then it obviously doesn’t feel good – and must hurt the dog, who after all has a central nervous system (just like we do), bleeds when cut (just like we do) and has a fully functioning beating heart to control his blood flow (just like we do!!! His brain registers the pain JUST LIKE WE DO!!!
For over a decade we have not had a choke chain on the Paws Abilities Training Ground fields (apart from the confiscated ones that I use to clip the gates closed!) I have yet to hear an argument that would make me change my mind! Anyway perhaps there is some kind lawyer or animal welfare office, who can explain the paradox of this to me – please drop me a line with your ideas and views on the subject.
We should all remember the saying - “First Do No Harm”.
Well that’s about it for now guys. I will keep you all posted of our upcoming events and other exciting news and provide feedback of other events. Please give me a shout with any views, news and other items, subject matter or articles that you would like to see included or discussed in our newsletter
Chow for Now
Louise
Consulting Rooms (011) 969-4467 Mobile 082-890-0905 E-mail louthomp@mweb.co.za
“Gentle Paws”
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To book an appointment contact:
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Electronic address. louthomp@mweb.co.za
“Gentle Paws” is run under the guidance of an accredited animal behaviourist and abides by the same values/principles as Paws Abilities Behaviour and Learning Centre.
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