Paws News November 2007

Paws Abilities Behaviour & Learning Centre
Newsletter Number 12 - November 2007

A warm welcome to all Paws connections! Well, we have one more workshop to hold before the end of this year and it should prove to be an interesting one. The date is SUNDAY NOVEMBER THE 25TH. NEW VENUE, Paws Abilities training grounds in Benoni (Just off the N12 Jhb / Witbank highway) we are covering various topics, which include:

Ø Hyperactivity & excitable behaviour
Ø Noise and thunder/firework phobias
Ø Grooming issues – prevention and solutions
Ø Separation anxiety
Ø And if we have time - kids and dogs, and preparing the dog for the arrival of a new human baby

If we don’t have time to discuss the last item, I will print it and include written material in full in the printed copy of the proceedings for your perusal. DO NOT FORGET TO BOOK SOON – PLACES ARE LIMITED: Contact Louise (011) 969-4467 louthomp@mweb.co.za Mobile: 082-890-0905


GRAND OPENING
It is with great pleasure that we announce that our very own Doggy Grooming Parlour. “Gentle Paws” will be open within the next week. My daughter Emma, has finished her apprenticeship and course, and is fit, ready, and eager to go!

Over the last few months, I have received numerous horrific reports from people who have had terrible experiences at various grooming parlours. So to say that “Gentle Paws” is going to be a bit different is probably a huge understatement!

“GENTLE PAWS” YOUR DOG – IN SAFE HANDS “GENTLE PAWS” - A NEW CONCEPT IN DOG GROOMING!
v Gentle Paws owner performs all grooming/washing/bathing/clipping herself – no unskilled assistants - no helpers!
v Unhurried, gentle grooming and bathing – difficult and problem dogs most welcome.
v No overbooking – only a limited amount of dogs will be booked per day (patience and gentle handling - always)!
v No rough handling of dogs – no choke chain/tethers – comfort and safety of the dog ensured.
v All dogs washed with warm water – All year round!
v Day run / exercise area available for large breeds to let off steam prior to grooming
v Gentle, gradual accustomisation programmes undertaken for difficult/problem dogs
v Early puppy accustomisation programme – get your puppy used to grooming from an early age – this prevents grooming and handling problems later on in life!
v Open plan parlour – owners are welcome (and encouraged) to sit and enjoy a cup of coffee whist their dog is being groomed. Gentle Paws has nothing to hide!
v All grooming is undertaken in full view of owners – open door policy!
v No “staff” taking your dog “around the back” where who knows what goes on!!!!
v Competitive prices – no hidden costs. Prices for dogs with badly mattered or un-kept coats available on enquiry – up front!
v Collection and delivery service available on request
v Safe, calm, fully fenced rural environment
v Gentle dog training equipment, toys, treats and chews on sale – competitive prices

To book an appointment contact Emma Thompson @ (082-923-9317) Electronic address louthomp@mweb.co.za

“Gentle Paws” is run under the guidance of an accredited animal behaviour consultant and abides by
the same values and principles as Paws Abilities Behaviour and Learning Centre


HEALTH - CARSICKNESS
by Claire Grobbelaar T Touch Practitioner
Carsickness - is a problem many puppies and dogs face. If not treated early it can become a life long unpleasant experience - even get into the car can become a difficulty. Carsickness can vary from vomiting and/or drooling to a withdrawn puppy with a "hang-dog-look". Try some of the following. You might need to combine a few and you might even have to start off with changing your dog perception of just getting into the car.

1) Do 5-10 minutes of Lying Leopard TTouch™ on the dog's body and stroke the ears gently and do some small TTouch circles on the ears just before driving. If you have a passenger, this person can also do the touches on them whilst you drive. (see various articles on www.ttouch.co.za)
2) Put a Body wrap on your puppy 10 minutes before you drive. Also have the puppy wear the wrap at other pleasant times such as eating or playing, otherwise the wrap becomes associated with driving. (See body wrap article at www.ttouch.co.za )
3) The Bach© Remedy Scleranthus can also help for motion sickness. Give 4 drops four times a day before driving.
4) Eco Travel can also assist in minimizing the effect of carsickness.
5) Feed a ginger biscuit to your dog 10 -15 minutes before you drive. Ginger helps to settle the stomach.
6) If your dog is clicker trained you can use your clicker experience to click & reward your puppy for approximations of approaching and getting into the car.
7) Sit and play or feed treats to your puppy in a stationary car - try to associate the car with fun stuff.
8) Go for short rides every day and gradually increase your distance.
9) Place a thick layer of newspaper under your dog's blanket in the car - it helps to deflect the static that builds up under the car.


THE RETRIEVE EXERCISE:

One of the exercises that many dogs appear to have problems learning, is the “retrieve”, or “fetch” exercise. The cause of this problem often stems from an early age, when the pup may have been scolded or punished, (especially in the early sensitive stages of puppy development,) for stealing, bolting, or running away with shoes or other household objects.

The pup thus learns to associate picking things up, with punishment, as he associates the concept of retrieve with a negative experience. If puppies are taught from an early age that it is rewarding to pick things up and actively encouraged to bring objects to his/her owner, this negative association is avoided, and the problem never develops!

The following articles are to give you an idea of how to encourage and teach retrieve, from puppy-hood, (in a positive manner) and to offer help for older, non- retrievers including “problem dogs,” using various different gentle retrieve methods. Even stubborn dogs that have never retrieved, or have stopped retrieving, can be re-taught the joy of ‘fetch”

None of the methods used in this book are harsh, or involve discomfort or punishment for the dog in any way! All methods are utilising the concept of positive reinforcement / reward based learning, and are fun for both dog and handler.
THE RETRIEVE EXERCISE: The eventual aim of the exercise is to achieve a full retrieve, with the dog under full control, with full obedience and compliance, as follows:

1. The dog is sitting (off leash) in the “Heel”, position on the Handler’s left hand side.
The Steward or Instructor will ask the Handler - “Handler, are you ready?”
2. If ready, the Handler then instructs the dog to “Wait.
The dog is not permitted to move until given the command by the Handler.
3. On the Steward or Instructors instruction “Handler throw your article” the dumbbell is thrown (by the Handler) forward for about 8 – 15 meters. The dog is not permitted to move until instructed by his Handler.
4. On instruction from the Steward or Instructor, “Send your dog” the dog is given the command “Fetch” by the Handler. On command the dog moves forward and picks up the dumbbell, quickly turning round and bringing it immediately back to the Handler, and “Presents,” (sits straight facing the owner with the dumbbell in his mouth). This means he performs a “Recall” carrying the dumbbell in his mouth, and sits straight in front of the Handler (facing the Handler.)
5. The dog must continue to hold the dumbbell in his mouth until the steward gives the handler the instruction “Take/remove the article”. The Handler, then may give the dog the “Leave” command, and remove the dumbbell from the dogs mouth, (the dog should release willingly). The dog must continue to sit straight, in the frontal position and await the “Finish” command.
6. On the steward’s instruction, “Finish” the handler may then give the “Heel” command and the dog brought around to the working heel side, (the Handlers left hand side) and completes the exercise with the dog in the sit position. The instructor / steward will then inform the handler that the exercise is over and the dog may then be praised and released.
7. All “Sits” must be straight – in a show ring points will be deducted for crocked sits.

For easy reference, in this booklet, all the retrieve objects are referred to as “The Dummy”.
In early learning stages, and in the lower show classes, “The Dummy”, can be a favourite toy, a dumbbell, a piece of wooden doweling, or any object of your preference. In training or practice, it is strongly suggested that the exercise is split up into manageable sections, thus not giving the dog an opportunity to fail. For example to avoid a dog “anticipating” what you are going to do (and thus loosing marks in the show ring) we never practice a finish straight after a recall, this is whether the recall is in a retrieve or as a separate exercise. Therefore, the dog learns that he has to listen and not try to make his own decisions.

RULES TO ENSURE A HAPPY RETRIEVE:
· Never practise or train your dog when you are in a bad mood, or if you have had a bad day at the office!
· Never practise or work your dog if he appears to be off colour or ill.
· Keep in mind the breed characteristics of each individual breed (inherited genetics) some breeds take longer to learn than others.
· All learning should be FUN – both for dog and owner!
· All learning should be based on positive reinforcement, or reward based methods of learning.
· Abuse and/or abusive methods of leaning have no place in dog training.
· Always be consistent, calm and confident. You will need to always be consistent in your attitude, voice, commands, and body language to obtain positive results.
· Never chastise or punish a dog/puppy for picking up anything in his mouth. If the dog/puppy has something “undesirable” in his mouth, you can do a “trade” for a valuable object or treat.
· Your voice is your most important training tool, so use it – especially for encouragement, affirmation and reassurance! The dog’s sense of hearing in some breeds is at least THREE TIMES GREATER THAN YOURS! So volume is not needed, rather use a soft excited tone than an intimidating booming voice!
· Always retain your sense of humour!
· Keep all learning sessions’ fun and light!
· Make sure that all training sessions are gentle and kind.
· Always end the practise session on a good note and if possible after a success!
· Quit when you are ahead!!!!! Unless following a programme such as the inducive retrieve programme as outlined later in this little book, keep the sessions short, and always end on a note of success!
· If the dog has performed an exercise correctly the first time, DO NOT REPEAT THE EXERCISE, or the second time he (or you) might make a mistake, and then you will have to repair the damage done by the mistake – QUIT WHEN YOU ARE AHEAD!


WHAT NOT TO DO!
· DON’T chase your dog to get the dummy (or anything else he has in his mouth). Four legs are much faster than two, and you do not want the dog to learn this fact, or he will learn (much to his owners frustration!) a fun game called “Hit and Run!” Rather teach him to “trade” for either a valuable alternative toy, or a food treat!
· DON’T play tug of war with the retrieve dummy. The idea is to fetch the dummy, not to fight over it! Keep games separate and different to retrieve. Instead of teaching the dog to use his strength against you in games of conflict - rather find games that encourage co-operation and control.
· DON’T ever fake throwing the dummy. It may be funny to watch the dog search for an imaginary dummy, but you will not find it amusing in the show ring if he looks away when you are throwing the dummy, and he thinks that you are fooling around!
· NEVER correct or punish your dog when he brings you something. Praise him even if he has stolen and brought your best pair of shoes to you! This is to ensure that he always has a positive association regarding retrieve!
· NEVER practise retrieve for long periods of time. It is better to perform one or two enthusiastic, good, successful retrieves, than to perform 10 mediocre retrieves, with a dog that is bored to tears! Quit before he loses his enthusiasm!

BE CONSISTENT! Always use the same commands, tone of voice, facial expression, body language, and body posture: You need to “mirror” your responses to your dog!

COMMANDS USED FOR THE “FETCH” OR RETRIEVE EXERCISE:
· “FETCH” – used when the dog is given, takes, picks up, or has the dummy gently popped into his mouth. In other words, in the early stages of learning, the word “Fetch” means literary to open his mouth and have a dummy gently put in it! The word should be exciting and accompanied by jubilant praise, which can initially include repeating the command word “Fetch” so that the dog can associate the word with the action of “Fetch”.
· “HOLD” – used when the dog retains, holds or carries the dummy in his mouth. In other words, when the dummy is in his mouth, he has to close his jaws, and hang onto the dummy until instructed otherwise! Initially, the command can be repeated with praise, to let the dog form an association with the word. “Hold, good dog” etc.
· “LEAVE” - This is when, on command, the dog releases the dummy into your awaiting outstretched open hands! PRAISE IS NOT GIVEN for the “Leave” command, as the “Fetch” and “Hold” need to be habituated first. A good idea, is to calmly say “thank you” instead of excited exuberant praise for release!
· ONLY PRAISE FOR THE “FETCH” AND HOLD”.

RETRIEVE AS A TRAINING TOOL: The correct stimulation – both physical and mental exercise, cannot be over-emphasised. I believe that a dog that never learns the joy of “fetch” misses out on a whole lot of fun, not to mention that it may be utilised as a useful training tool, and as a reward for a job well done! It can also be a lazy way for you to exercise your dog when you have limited time!
If you want your dog to learn to fetch, you must NEVER scold him for picking anything up in his mouth. Or he will associate it with a negative experience. If the dog/pup at some stage in his life has had a negative experience, associated with carrying something in his mouth, when you actually want him to pick things up and “Fetch,” he will be disinclined to oblige, as he will remember the negative experience, of having something in his mouth and being scolded/punished! Therefore, whenever he picks up something in his mouth – he should be praised. If he has something undesirable in his mouth, praise as usual, and calmly remove the article then replace it with another toy or object that he is allowed to have.
The following methods will give you some alternative ways to teach retrieve and to overcome any problems that you might be having with your dog/puppy.
· Use a large dose of your own common sense, and “read” your puppy/dog in order to decide which method will work for you and your dog/pup.
· Every dog and every owner is different and must be considered as individuals.
· You will need to be flexible to get it right!
· Keep your cool and develop a sense of humour!

THE PLAYFUL RETRIEVE - HOW TO BEGIN
As soon as the pup’s mouth is big enough to hold a ball or a toy you can start to play. Nearly all puppies have a natural tendency to chase a moving object such as a ball. Begin in the house with you sitting on the floor, relaxed and in a good mood! Only roll the toy as far as your puppy can follow the movement with his eyes. Resist the temptation to bounce the ball, or throw it a long distance, He will probably pounce on it.
The puppy’s concentration span is extremely short, so only “play the game”, for a couple of minutes at a time. Once the pup has learned the joy of chasing the rolling toy, while you are sitting on the floor, clap your hands and encourage the puppy to bring it back to you. By sitting on the floor, you are at the puppy’s level, and in a non-threatening position. You are in the perfect position to welcome him and fuss over him if he does return. You are also curbing your own impulse to go forward towards him, which would be off putting and intimidating to the puppy.
If he comes back to you, praise him and act as if the toy that he has just brought you is made of solid gold! If he does not come back to you - do not scold him or act displeased and never chase after him, (which would teach him to run away with things and develop bad habits!) Keep encouraging him to bring it, and if he doesn’t, nonchalantly move towards him, get it back, and try again. If after several days the pup still has not got the idea of bringing the toy back to you, try rolling it in the passage of your house with all the doors closed.
As the pup runs after the moving toy, clap your hands and either kneeling or sitting on the floor try to encourage him to bring it to you. If he runs at all, he will have no choice but to run to you! Then when he gets to you he can then be fussed over, so that he gets the idea that this is what you want and finds the human reaction rewarding.
Don’t be in a hurry to leave the passage to play this game. If you do, you are giving the pup the opportunity to learn to disobey you, you want to limit his options, to make sure that he succeeds and thus gains praise and reward.
The next step is to take him to a slightly less confined room, such as the kitchen, and get him to bring it back to you. Hopefully he will fetch it and bring it back to you as he did in the passage. If he does not bring it back – despite your encouraging voice and hand clapping you have two choices.
1. Return to the passage and start from the beginning again.
2. Attach a thin light line to his collar in order to narrow his options, where after fetching the ball, he may gently be drawn to you with encouragement and praise.
You have to keep the concept of learning, light and fun for the puppy, do not put any pressure on the pup or he will rapidly loose interest. The best way is just gentle playful encouragement, to get the pup to do what you want, showing pleasure when he gets it right. Do not be in a hurry to start playing outside, as that is a big transition. You want your puppy to enjoy the game but he must also know the rules before you add any further distractions.
When you feel he is ready to play the game outside, put him on the light line, even if you did not have to use it before – so he does not get the opportunity to dodge and run away and it will also remind him of the rules of the game. Throw the toy about the same distance that you did when playing in the house, and assume the familiar position sitting or kneeling on the floor. From here on, when successful, you can very gradually proceed to longer retrieves, eventually chopping off short pieces of the line, bit by bit, until eventually the line becomes a short piece of string attached to the puppy’s collar. You can also, over time, start to raise your body from the sitting/kneeling position, to crouching, and bit by bit, eventually over time, progress to the standing position for the entire retrieve.
If the puppy/dog regresses at any time then go back to the stage, where he was coping adequately, and move forward with the programme gradually from there. Although this is taught as a game, remember that this is a game of control and co-operation, played on your terms. Your pup will have a better readiness for learning routines than before!

GETTING IT RIGHT FROM THE BEGINNING. Most young puppies love to play “Fetch”. Once your new puppy has had a chance to settle into his new home, then you can begin to lay a good foundation for his future reliable retrieve.
The best time to begin a training session with your pup is while he is chewing on toys. Call him to you, if he brings the toy to you then praise him (praise him while he is carrying it), while coupling the praise with the “happy” soft excited voice command, “Fetch “Hold” and gently remove the toy. Remember to praise the pup for coming to you.
The proper choice of the first dummy is crucial. An old sock tied with a knot in the middle is a good first choice. A piece of wooden doweling can also be used, as can a stuffed toy, etc. Initially make sure that the dummy is not too small, or it will be difficult to remove from the pup’s mouth. In addition, you don’t want the dummy to be too large, as this would be awkward for a young pup to carry. With a young puppy, do not start with a wooden competition dumbbell, as the pup may try to fetch and carry it by the ends, and you do not want bad habits to set in.
Designate a couple of places on your property for retrieve. The area should be distraction free, initially with you blocking the exit. If you are going to train outdoors, make sure that the area is escape proof, and no more than 4 feet wide and 10 feet long.
Indoors, the long main passageway in the house is also an ideal spot. Sit on the floor blocking his exit. Sitting on the floor, or kneeling, is far better than standing, when one is inclined to lean over the pup, which he might find intimidating.
1. Give him a trigger word “Let’s go get your dummy”! (Always use the same “trigger” each time, and not as a play or release command – retrieve is not to be confused with play). Let the pup see and smell the dummy and then tease him up a bit by pulling it on the floor to stimulate his “prey drive” and encourage him to chase it. Most puppies at this stage will happily chase and grab a valuable object/dummy. You should sound happy and exited and praise the pup with the command – “Fetch” (as soon as he goes out to chase) and – “Hold” (when he has the object in his mouth). This is for the pup to learn the association of the word and the action.
2. As he picks up the dummy, in an excited voice, give him the command “Hold” and then in a happy tone with a big smile give him the command “Come”. You can also clap your hands to add to the verbal encouragement, coaxing him to you.
3. When he gets to you, gently cup his face / muzzle lovingly in your hands, so that he does not drop the dummy, and simultaneously give the command (remember to use a soft, light happy tone) “Hold” accompanied with tons of verbal encouragement and praise.
4. Give him a soft “Leave” command and if he does not comply at once then, gently remove the dummy from his mouth. Immediately throw it a short distance. If the pup has lost his enthusiasm, make it fun, and drag the dummy on the floor just out of reach to encourage
him to chase it, then roll/throw it a couple of feet, or just far enough to get him to chase it,
which will stimulate his “prey drive” and encourage his natural behaviours to hunt the toy.

Do this only once or twice (three times tops). LEARN TO QUIT WHILE YOU ARE AHEAD! Most pups will retrieve so enthusiastically that you will be tempted to throw the dummy too often. RESIST THE TEMPTATION! A couple of short sessions per day are enough. After a while the pup will begin to bring you a toy whenever he wants to retrieve which will be a fair indication that you are right on track.
POSSIBLE PROBLEMS: You are bound to experience some problems along the way. Make sure that you are following each step correctly. Assuming that you are following the programme, here are some of the more common problems that you might experience.
REFUSAL TO GO OUT: Usually this is because the pup does not like the dummy. Try a few alternative dummies. If that does not work, are you perhaps throwing it too far? A couple of feet is far enough at first.
Try a bit of teasing before actually throwing the dummy – “You can’t have it – it’s mine”. Then flash it (not too fast) in front of his face – enough to cause interest as it is pulled away – he should then snap at the dummy, - then give it a little toss, and go through the process as previously described. As a last resort only, play tug of war, until the pup is actively trying to get it away from you. Immediately remove it and throw it a short distance.
NEVER try to force a train and retrieve – especially with a puppy. Sometimes it is simply a matter of maturity.
DOESN’T BRING IT BACK: This type of behaviour generally falls into two categories: “Rompers” and/or “Chewers” – who delight in throwing the dummy around, shaking it to death, and/or stopping to play and/or all of the above. “Catch me if you can! “ They like to play “hit and run” with the dummy. At this early stage of training the above problems are usually quite easily solved. Since you are training in a confined area, the puppy’s options are limited!
DO NOT SCOLD THE PUPPY! Calmly return to your starting point and begin again. Anytime the pup indulges in this behaviour three times in a row, put the dummy away for a couple of days and then start again. Eventually he will learn that he can’t play this nice game if he doesn’t play by your rules!
DROPPING THE DUMMY AFTER PICK UP: Check the size of the dummy to make sure that it is not too large for the puppy to handle. Then check that it is not so long that it drags on the ground, the puppy could tread on it and/or it could pop out of his mouth Then make sure that you are not throwing the dummy too far! If not – then it depends on where he is dropping it.
The pup that drops it at a distance from you is simply confused. Walk calmly to the dummy with a smile and with a happy tone of voice give him the instruction again “fetch it” and roll the dummy around. He should pounce on it. Quickly step back a stride or two and call him to you. Again, if he drops it three times in a row, give it a couple of days break and start again.
THE FIGHTER: This kind of pup will violently resist giving up the dummy – do not get angry! Quickly and firmly (remember to be gentle) offer him a trade, for either a treat, or an alternatively valuable toy, whilst giving him the command “Leave.” If he is not interested in the “Trade” then you need to gently limit the puppy’s options. (If he is not given a chance to disobey you he will never learn how to!) DON’T GET CROSS or scold the puppy. Simply slide your thumb behind his long fang and rest your thumb on his tongue for a second, accompanied with the calm command “Leave” and he will automatically open his mouth to release the dummy.
IMPORTANT TIPS:
Ø The speed that the pup brings the dummy back to you is very important. Do not worry about getting him to sit in front of you or formalising the exercise in any way whilst he is just learning. That part of the exercise you should only add when he is more mature.
Ø Never stand like a statue when you are calling your pup to you with the dummy in his mouth. Crouch down, or go down onto your knees (leaning back – inviting body language) with wide open, inviting arms to encourage him to come to you without dropping the dummy.
Ø If he is struggling to get the concept of returning to you, turn around and run away from him for a few steps – whilst calling him to you. Try not to bend / tower over him (which is intimidating.) Wait until he is in a good position, either at your side or in front of you and then calmly slide the dummy out of his mouth, remembering to praise only when the dummy is in his mouth.


THE PASSIVE COMPULSION METHOD:
If you have an older dog that is not interested in fetching, playing or retrieving, then you might have to consider “Helping” him to learn the exercise. In much the same way that if a dog is instructed to “Sit”, if he does not comply, he is gently (with the minimum of fuss) helped into the position, and then praised for compliance. The same logic can be applied for teaching the non-retrieve dog to “Fetch” when using passive compulsion.
This gentle compulsion method should not be conducted during a heavy formal training session. Rather incorporate the lesson into the dog’s daily household routine. In fact a great time and place to teach retrieve is when sitting in your favourite chair watching television!
Tips and rules
Ø Keep all sessions short, fun and light.
Ø Make sure that the dog is hungry and fasted for at least 12 hours.
Ø Wear a pouch with some tasty treats in it. The dog is only going to receive the treat when he has earned it - on compliance!
The first retrieve object should be a thin piece of bird perch, or wooden doweling.
You can use anything that is not too thick or heavy. Use a piece of doweling that is sized in relation to the size of the dog, his jaw shape and size. Usually a good beginner size of doweling for the non-retrieve dog is one about the size of your finger and long enough to just stick out of the dogs mouth each side by an inch or so.
HOW TO BEGIN: Have the dog on leash (make sure it is a nice long leash) for control and in order to be able to limit his options. Put the leash under your foot so that you have both hands free. Show the dog the dowel, and make sure that it does not suddenly “appear” out of nowhere, which could be frightening. Move slowly and never try to shove the dowel into his face. The dog needs to be aware in advance of all your intentions, and feel safe and secure that the dowel is not going to hurt him or be frightening.
Hold the dowel level with the dog’s mouth and give him a soft gentle command “Fetch”. If the dog looks at you as if you come from Mars, then SMILE, and very gently with your left hand (keeping the dowel in your right hand in front of his mouth) slide your finger just behind his large fang just to open his mouth enough for you to slide the dowel in just behind his fangs.
Be careful not to put the dowel in his mouth too deep or too far back, as it would make him gag which could end up causing a negative association with the concept of holding something in his mouth.
Without bending over him, as this would be intimidating, and why it is a good idea to start in a chair or sitting down. Gently cup your hands over his muzzle and/or tickle the top of his head with one hand and gently support his closed jaw with the other hand. Simultaneously give the command “Fetch” and “Hold” with lots of verbal praise, big smiles and lots of praise and encouragement.
Help him in this way for a couple of seconds only, and then without praise, give the command “Leave” (softly – don’t growl!) and remove the dowel. Simultaneously pop the treat into his mouth. Only give lots of praise and excitement for the “Fetch” and “Hold” section of the exercise – as you want the dog to associate praise with holding and carrying the dowel – not releasing it! Repeat this several times per day for about a week or so, or until the dog’s at the level where he is happy to open his mouth on command.
The next step is to teach him to move his head slightly forward to take the dowel from you hand. The dowel should be held level with the dogs jaw - a couple of inches away from his face. Do not lower the level, or the angle which the dowel is being held at this stage, until he has showed that he is reliably managing at this height. Gradually over a period of time you can increase the distance until he is managing to retrieve and hold a full arms length (which should still be level with his face at this stage)
Only once he is coping with a full arms length, may you begin to lower the angle – again very gradually towards the ground. This must be a very gradual process, and you should stay at each height for a couple of days ensuring that the dog is reliable at each height, before moving on. Take your time before dropping the dowel on the floor – if you rush, you could put the dog off the exercise. Some dogs do not like the feel of sand/grass on their lips and as the dowel is not raised from the ground like a dumb bell (as the dumb bell has block sides) you do not want the dog to regress.
The next step is to start to teach the dog to pick up the dowel from the floor – but – use the baby steps routine as before. Instead of putting the dowel directly on the floor, start by resting the piece of doweling on two bricks at arms length in front of the dog. This is so the dogs face does not come into contact with the grass or sand. Many dogs do not like the “feel” of grass or sand on their faces.
Once he is competent at this stage, then it is time to (deliberately) regress a couple of stages and replace the dowel with a lightweight wooden dumb bell. Make sure as before, that it is suitable, in both size and weight, for your dog’s size jaw and the shape of his mouth. Practise as before until you are at the “brick on the ground” stage. From there on, it is simply a matter of showing the dog the same is required from the ground, and then gradually over a period of time, slowly increasing the distance that the dumb bell is thrown. It is imperative, that if at any time the dog regresses, YOU GO BACK TO THE LEVEL WHERE THE DOG WAS COPING COMPETENTLY – and then re-teach, re-learn, refresh, and then, only work forward from there.


THE INDUCIVE RETRIEVE METHOD:
Adapted from the original method developed in Canada by Glen Johnson.
This is a food incentive method that has proved very successful for the dog that retrieves and for the non-retriever. This method is well proved on novices and on failures from many other methods. Most novice dogs retrieve a thrown dumbbell by the end of one evening after the dumb bell is introduced. Real hard-core stubborn dogs take a week. The most defiant worked with, took eleven evenings! An evening is 3 – 5 hours:
RULES:
· Always quit when you get tired and never get upset or angry with the dog.
· Always REMOVE, REWARD AND PRAISE in that order!
· No skipping steps – YOU WILL REGRET IT LATER!


LEARNING SEQUENCE:
Each learning sequence should be performed as follows: -
Do each step three times, and then heel the dog in a circle.
Repeat this sequence three times – in all a total of nine times!
Then REST the dog for three to five minutes.


· REST PERIODS are just that.
Do not play or interact with the dog. Rather read your obedience rules or something non-influential
· The dog must perform each step properly, that is correctly NINE times running before advancing to the next step.
· If the dog refuses to take the dumbbell it is gently made to comply, with the minimum of fuss, either by gently brushing against the front teeth, or sliding the mouth open. Then Remove, Reward, Praise, and repeat the exercise.
· Three refusals in a row is REGRESSION. When this happens (and it will!) REST for ten minutes and begin TWO STEPS BACKWARDS.
· NOTE: The dumbbell is always presented from above, and the command to retrieve is given as the dumbbell is given / level with the dogs eyes. The dumbbell ends up touching the muzzle, under the nose UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED!

INTRODUCTION TO THE DOWEL:
The piece of doweling used should be about the size of the bar on a normal dumbbell. This homework is done BEFORE you start dumbbell work. A good idea is to have it perfected a week before introducing the dumbbell. The dog should preferably be at Novice level of training. IT IS IMPORTANT THAT THIS IS COMPLETED BEFORE GOING ONTO ACTUAL DUMB BELL WORK!
· 1 x even tempered dog handler with his/her dog (and a strong back if they are working with a small dog)
· 1 x hungry dog (fasted for 12 hours)
· 1 x piece of wooden doweling, two to three inches long.
· 1 x large bowel of goodies, which have been cut into quarter inch cubes. The goodies can be liver, cheese, sausages or cooked chicken liver, or whatever your dog fancies, or even a bit of each!
· 1 x chair
· 1 - 2 hours (remember there are lots and lots of “rest times” where you are not actively interacting with the dog.


THE COMMAND “FETCH”
STEP ONE:
Have the dog in the heel position, preferably off leash if possible, in not, then drop the leash and place your foot on it, so that you have both hands free. Have the goodies in the right hand and the dowel in the left hand.
1. Present the dowel from above the dog’s eye level – simultaneously giving the command “Fetch” as the dowel passes the dog’s eye level.
2. Gently insist (if necessary) by brushing the dowel against the dog’s teeth, or sliding the dowel into the mouth just behind the fangs.
3. Immediately REMOVE, REWARD AND PRAISE (R.R.P.)

STEP TWO:
1. Present the dowel and give the command “Fetch”
2. Hold one end of the dowel down, or hold mouth gently shut, wait five seconds then R.R.P. followed with Learning Sequence (L.S.)


THE COMMAND “HOLD”
STEP ONE:
Have the chair with the plate of goodies on it, in front of the handler and dog, at arms length.
1. Present dowel, command, “FETCH.”
2. With hand under the dogs chin (if necessary) prevent the dog dropping the dowel and give the command “HOLD.”
3. Reach to the chair, grab the goodies and IMMEDIATELY - REMOVE, REWARD AND PRAISE & FOLLOW WITH THE LEARNING SEQUENCE ( 3 x repeats with a “heel” circle in between.)

If at any time the dowel is dropped, put the goodies back onto the chair, present the dowel again, and make sure that you are extremely quick with the goodie!


TEACHING THE DOG TO “CARRY”
STEP ONE:
The chair is now twenty to thirty feet away, or you can use two chairs that are placed thirty feet apart, which saves you having to move around too much. Use only one goodie bowel, and carry it back and forth.
1. Present the dowel, give the command “FETCH”
2. Give the command “STAY” – walk over to the chair, pick up the goodie, and TURN TO FACE THE DOG, give the command “COME” then immediately REMOVE, REWARD, AND PRAISE, FOLLOWED BY THE LEARNING SEQUENCE.

PLEASE NOTE: At this stage you are working only for the “HOLD.” Do not correct the dog for any other imperfections, but you can encourage the dog, with extra commands (till he gets the message) and give him lavish praise.
STEP TWO:
Put the goodies in your pocket, set up three broad dog jumps placed on three sides of a square, about the size of an obedience ring.
1. Have the dog in the “heel” position, and do a few paces of heelwork (between five and ten), and while moving, present the dowel with the command – “FETCH.”
2. After about three to eight paces, HALT, and immediately REMOVE, REWARD AND PRAISE. If the dog encounters the jump, command the dog to jump “OVER” or “HUP” and if necessary jump with the dog; if the dog drops the dowel, pick it up then halt. Re-present the dowel, and immediately REMOVE, REWARD AND PRAISE, which is followed immediately by the LEARNING SEQUENCE:

IMPORTANT NOTE: This whole method is following the principle that success breeds success and involves a total lack of negative training! A correction involves merely having to perform the exercise again, with help, in order to prevent the dog from making a mistake, so that you have an opportunity to reward the dog for his success! This method will prevail throughout this retrieve programme. The dog works for the reward, but loves the training because he is not punished for the mistakes and he always succeeds!
GUESS WHAT? YOU ARE NOW READY FOR THE SECOND PART OF THIS PROGRAMME: Set your mind for the positive approach! Your dog has now experienced the retrieve command, the hold command and has developed a positive association with the learning sequence. Make sure that you do not feed the dog for at least 12 hours prior to the next step, and if possible allow the dog an hour or so in solitude and silence before beginning the session. This will add to the value of the lesson. He should now consider how nice it is to be with you, to train with you, and of course the other advantage is that he is also HUNGRY!


DUMB BELL RETRIEVE TRAINING:
THE COMMAND “FETCH”: Have the goodies at your side, the dog may sit or stand: Remember The RULES!!!
FETCH:
Present the dumbbell, and give the command ‘FETCH.”
STEP ONE:
The dog takes the dumbbell in his mouth, and the handler helps the dog to hold it, and immediately RRP and LS.
STEP TWO:
The dog takes the dumbbell in his mouth, and the dog holds it on his own accord or assisted and then the handler immediately RRP and LS.


READY:
STEP ONE:
The dog has to reach or stretch his head ONE INCH in front of his nose to take the dumbbell. The handler holds the dumbbell or helps the dog to hold it and then immediately RRP and LS.
STEP TWO:
The dog has to reach ONE INCH in front of his nose to take the dumbbell. The dog has now to hold the dumbbell on his own for a second or two and then immediately RRP and LS.
STEP THREE:
The dog has to reach collar height from the floor with the handler holding the dumbbell then the handler immediately RRP and LS.
STEP FOUR:
The dog reaches out to the collar height; the dog holds the dumbbell on his own accord and then the handler immediately RRP and LS.
STEP FIVE:
The dog reaches out to elbow height, the handler holds the dumbbell and helps if necessary and then the handler immediately RRP and LS.
STEP SIX:
The dog reaches out to elbow height, the dog holds the dumbbell on his own accord, and then the handler immediately RRP and LS.
STEP SEVEN:
The dog reaches to the floor – make sure that you do not take your hand off the dumbbell – the handler holds, and then immediately RRP and LS.
STEP EIGHT:
The dog reaches to the floor – the dog holds the dumbbell and then immediately RRP and LS.





THE COMMAND “HOLD”
HOLD:

The goodies are now six feet from the handler; the dog may sit or stand;
Present the dumbbell and give the command “HOLD.”
STEP ONE:
The dog reaches out one inch, and holds the dumbbell – immediately RRP and LS.
STEP TWO:
The dog reaches out to collar height the dog holds the dumbbell – immediately RRP and LS.
STEP THREE:
The dog reaches elbow height; the dog holds the dumbbell and immediately RRP and LS.
STEP FOUR:
The dog reaches to the floor - the dog holds the dumbbell and then immediately RRP and LS.
STEP FIVE:
The handler holds one end of the dumbbell on the floor and then the dog holds – immediately RRP and LS.
STEP SIX:
The handler places the dumbbell on the floor – and the dog moves forward and picks up the dumbbell, immediately followed by RRP and LS.



PLACE RETRIEVE:
RETRIEVE:
The goodies are now kept behind the handler, the dog stands.
STEP ONE:
The handler places the dumbbell on the floor, and then gives the command “FETCH” Dog holds, immediately RRP and LS.
STEP TWO:
The handler takes one step, places dumbbell on the floor, commands “FETCH” – Dog holds and then immediately RRP and LS.
STEP THREE:
The handler takes one step, places the dumbbell on the floor and gives the command FETCH – then the handler takes two steps backwards –the dog picks up and holds the dumbbell and immediately RRP and LS.
STEP FOUR:
The handler takes one step, places dumbbell on the floor, and then takes one step back to the dog, gives the command FETCH – the dog moves forward, picks up the dumbbell then carries it one step towards the handler - immediately RRP and LS.
STEP FIVE:
The handler takes two steps, places dumbbell, takes two steps back to the dog, gives the command – the dog then carries it two steps towards the handler – then - immediately RRP and LS.
STEP SIX:
The handler takes three steps, places dumbbell, then takes three steps back to the dog, gives the command, the dog then carries the dumbbell three steps towards the handler- then immediately RRP and LS.



RETRIEVE:
RETRIEVE:
Goodies behind handler, dog stands; give commands while the dumbbell is moving!
STEP ONE:
Handler slides the dumbbell out three feet on the floor - the dog carries – then immediately RRP and LS.
STEP TWO:
Handler slides the dumbbell out four feet on the floor – the dog carries – then immediately RRP and LS.
STEP THREE:
Handler slides dumbbell out five feet on the floor – the dog carries – then immediately RRP and LS.
STEP FOUR:
Handler tosses dumbbell out six feet onto the floor, the dog carries – then immediately RRP and LS.
STEP FIVE:
Handler tosses the dumbbell seven feet out onto the floor, the dog carries – then immediately RRP and LS
STEP SIX:
The handler tosses the dumbbell out nine feet onto the floor, the dog carries – then immediately RRP and LS


THE REAL THING:

Goodies behind handler – dog sitting.
STEP ONE:

Gently restrain the dog by holding him by the collar, give the command to “WAIT” – toss the dumbbell about nine feet forward which should be increased by about a foot each time that you throw it. Give the command ‘FETCH” – the dog retrieves, returns to the handler, then immediately RRP and LS.
STEP TWO:

Give the command ‘WAIT” then toss the dumbbell nine feet forward – again remember to increase the distance by about a foot each time you throw it. The dog is then sent – performs the retrieve with the command “FETCH” – immediately on return RRP and LS.

THE AFTER RULES!
Always offer the dog his regular diet after a training session. However - for the real hard-core “non-retriever” you can skip meals for a day after three negative evenings of training. Keep in mind that if you follow the programme exactly, then the dog does know what to do but is possibly simply refusing to cooperate: He is only considered reliable when he has performed each command reliably for over a week.

You will find after a while that the dog will retrieve at the oddest times, stealing the dumbbell and showing other unusual behaviours DO NOT STIFLE THE DOGS ENTHUSIASM, if the dog steals the dumbbell, remember to still RRP and perform the LS to reinforce the training! If he breaks a “stay” to retrieve – SAY AND DO NOTHING!! You are going to let the dog work it out for himself! Prevent the error next time by gently holding him / restraining him by the collar and emphasising the “WAIT’ command, and then work on your “STAY’S” when you are not practising dumbbell work.


Clicker Tips – THINGS TO REMEMBER
Clicker Training is surely becoming more and more popular here in South Africa and it’s something that is possible for you to try at home. As a result, I’ve decided to put into this section for the next couple of months, one of the handouts we give to our class. It includes some basic rules to Clicker Training. The easy ones you’ll understand and perhaps the ones you don’t grasp will encourage you to seek more information!

Keep practice sessions short.
Much more is learnt in a few short lessons rather than a 30 minute long session. End on a good note


Primary Reinforcer (PR): Anything the dog will work for such as food, play, toys, car ride. Often people don’t understand what their dogs like best. Try a toy, different treats or even a sudden valuable game!


Food is a primary reinforcer: Different foods have different values. Use a lower value food in a low-distraction environment and a higher value food for a high-distraction situation.

Reinforce with anything the dog wants:


a. Food - If using food treats, make them small and easy to swallow. Use really tasty treats at first – this encourages the dog to work for them. Remember to mix the treats up. Have some really exiting ones and other mediocre ones. Give an especial treat (freeze dried liver perhaps) for a good response.
b. Toys

c. Praise or attention

d. The opportunity to do something the dog wants car, chase squirrels, etc.
e. The opportunity to perform a well-known behaviour.


Secondary or Conditioned Reinforcer (SR/CR) This tells the dog that it has done something desirable and that a PR will follow. Also called a Conditioner Reinforcer as the animals is conditioned to it’s sound. Learned signals that indicate a PR is coming! i.e.: clicker, whistle in dolphin training, bells on slot machine, tin opener for cats!

Reinforcement (FR). Remember that behavior that is reinforced is likely to be repeated. Even if it is reinforced irregularly. Un-reinforced (never ever reinforced in any way) behavior extinguishes itself


Behaviour is strengthened when reinforcement is given at unpredictable intervals.
Think like a gambler : “Maybe I’ll be lucky this time”

Go onto Fixed or Random rate of reinforcement (FR) only when the dog is reliable in a BH. This is when you ask for 2 Behaviors before C/T/ This we will call fixed Ratio : every 2 times or every 3 times. Terminology may be different in different books. Check your insert for our purposes.

If your dog is afraid of the clicker: Layer the metal tab of the clicker with tape, put it into your pocket or behind your back, use rather a ball point clicker. Click each time before you feed him. Ignore fearful behaviour



Things that affect the dogs attitude towards training:
If every time you call your dog and he comes you crate it or the game is over the association will become negative.
Will he then still come? This depends on many things – such as


a. The dogs emotional state

b. It’s heath

c. It’s genetic propensity for trainability or for performing a given behaviour.

d. Stress in the Environment
e Your attitude toward training and that behaviour
f Significant events that occur during the training
g The pleasantness or unpleasantness of whatever routinely follow this behaviour
h Physical comfort or discomfort associated with the behaviour -The “fun factor”



Be sure to lower your dog’s daily intake of food when training.



For hard to treat dogs:
Fry up some bacon and toss the kibble into the bacon at. If your dog has a weight problem, build toy drive by pairing the toy with his favorite treat and C/T for interaction with the toy. (make sure the toy is not accessible except when you play with him)

If your dog is food obsessed and only stares at the food:

a. Do an exercise where the dog has to look at you to get a C/T

b. Keep the treats OFF your body. Keep them in a bowl around the house or in a treat bag on your bum

c. Don’t hold treats in your hand, wait until AFTER the behaviour to get the treat. Don’t hold several in your hand!


FEEDBACK ON THE AGGRESSION WORKSHOP
As usual, we had a great turnout and a good time was had by all. Special thanks to Rose and Maureen for supplying a fantastic afternoon tea which was thoroughly enjoyed by all.

CHANGE OF VENUE FOR THE NEXT WORKSHOP!
Don’t forget to book well in advance for our next work shop which will be held at the end of November (November 25th) at the Paws Abilities Training grounds. Booking with Louise (011) 969-4467 082-890-0905 louthomp@mweb.co.za


CLASS TESTING (NOVICE / A CLASS)
Rose’s obedience class is hopefully going to be tested on the morning of the 25 (the day of the workshop) Thanks need to go in advance, to KUSA obedience Judge, Paul Lakin and his steward Julie Sayer for all their hard work. Your efforts are greatly appreciated and thanks from all of us. We will let you know of the various scores in the next issue.


TRAINING THROUGHOUT THE SILLY SEASON
Although we do wind down a bit over Christmas, the training school (behaviour practice, and grooming parlour) is open right through December and January and we will make up classes of whoever is here attending. This is often a fun time for students, as we try to play (even more) games and have lots of fun. So if you are not going away – join us for some fun and games!

Anyway – that’s all for now folks. Please don’t hesitate to send me articles for this publication, any news, views, criticisms or complaints.

Happy Heeling
Louise