Paws News September 2008

Paws Abilities
Behaviour & Learning Centre
Newsletter Number – 22 September 2008

A warm welcome to all Paws Abilities students, family, friends and clients. Don’t forget to book early for our September video and practical workshops. Places are limited. For some of the mornings dogs will be welcome, but must have been booked in advance. See the flyer at the end of our newsletter.


APPEAL: We are re-vamping the school and want to close in the school lapa to create a real clubhouse. This is so that we can have a weatherproof venue for workshops, seminars, practical events and let’s face it, lots of parties and braai’s.

We are hopeful that some of you will have some building material that we can use. Bricks, wood, windows, and any kind of paving is desperately needed. Also sliding doors so the hall will be more user friendly..

We are also on the look out for second hand Wendy houses / even a wooden tool shed would do – many of our instructors dogs come with them to the school grounds and need shelter from the elements whilst their dedicated owners are teaching. Again please let us know if you can find us a few decent Wendy houses – we are of course broke so need serious bargains!

If anyone can help us please give me (Louise) a shout at (011) 969-4467 or 082-890-0905


The Canine character
A dog is a dog is a dog? Yes -- within limits
Canine character test indicates dog's pack and defence attitudes

The Martins brought home the cutest German Shepherd puppy several months ago, and the children named her Cheyenne--just like their old shepherd who died last winter. Cheyenne grew as shepherds do, and before long she weighed 50 pounds and was a handful at the end of a leash. And she stole food, off the counters, off the table, even out of the children's hands. This Cheyenne was nothing like the other Cheyenne. This Cheyenne chased the neighbour’s cat, shredded the children's socks and underwear, and liked nothing better than a romp through the neighbourhood with Mom and kids chasing behind, calling frantically for her to come back. The Martins were baffled--they bought a second German Shepherd because they liked the personality of the first, but they didn't know that within breeds, individual characters can vary widely.

During the last decade or so, dozens of books have been written and hundreds, maybe thousands, of seminars have been offered that focus on understanding learning style or working style as critical to getting the most out of a student, a subordinate, a colleague, or a spouse. In the last few years, dog trainers have incorporated the same principles into training programs. First, they determine the learning style of the dog based on his personality or drives; then they tailor a training program to fit that style.

The technique of recognizing dog drives --the inborn attitudes towards the stresses of life--is an old one, but until 1991 when Wendy Volhard put it down on paper, the knowledge was passed on from trainer to protégé. A founder with husband Jack Volhard of the so-called motivational method of training, Wendy Volhard attended a Schutzhund seminar taught by German trainer Jorg Silkenath. She became intrigued with the concept of drives and did further research before writing a series of articles for Off-Lead Magazine.

The concept is simple -- dogs have different personalities and therefore different learning styles, and techniques that work with one may not work with another. Thus some dogs obey with almost whispered commands, and others need firm words and stern expressions. Some dogs panic at quick movements and others stand their ground. Some dogs need wide space and others are not happy unless leaning against the master's leg.

Drives defined
The four drives outlined by Volhard include
PREY DRIVE PACK DRIVE FIGHT DRIVE FLIGHT REACTION

The prey drive includes those behaviours that highlight hunting and foraging behaviours. Dogs that hunt and kill their toys (or objects of clothing, pillows, etc.), chase anything that moves, steal food, stalk the cat, and pounce on toys or other animals are probably high in prey drive.

The Pack drive involves a dog's affinity for humans or other dogs. A dog with a high pack drive cannot get enough of people; he barks or cries when left alone, solicits play and petting, likes to touch, enjoys grooming, and loves the sound of his master's voice.

The Fight drive is defensive and indicates a dog's self-confidence in stressful situations. A dog with a strong fight-defence drive stands his ground, walks high on his toes, guards his territory and his family, may guard his toys and food, tolerates petting and grooming but does not really enjoy these activities, enjoys tug-of-war, and seems ready to fight.

The Flight drive is also a defence drive and indicates a dog's lack of self-confidence. A dog with high flight drive is unsure in new situations and may hide behind his person, is stressed when separated from his person, crawls on his belly or urinates when reprimanded, and may bite when cornered.

What they mean:
A dog with a strong fight drive may be described as dominant; a dog with a strong flight drive is often described as submissive and can become a fear-biter if not trained appropriately. Although each breed exhibits a general character, individuals in each breed can vary. Akitas, Rottweilers, Dobermans, and German Shepherds are guard breeds and are expected to be high in both prey and fight drives and moderate or low in pack and flight drives, some individuals in these breeds have a high pack drive or a high flight drive.

Golden Retrievers, Labrador Retrievers, Standard Poodles, and other companion breeds are expected to be high in pack drive and moderate in prey and fight drives, but some individuals may have a high defence drive and become either aggressive or excessively fearful. Problems can arise when a breed is chosen for its general drives but the individual dog differs from the prevailing character of the breed.

To determine the strength of these drives in an individual dog, Volhard devised a simple 12-question test for each. Each question is answered by "yes" or "no"; the number of "yes" answers determines the depth of the drive in the dog's personality.

Training tips
All dogs should be taught the meaning of each command and should be given the benefit of the doubt until the owner is certain that the command is understood. Once the dog understands, corrections can be used for mistakes, beginning with guidance back into position then progressing to voice correction in a soft tone, then a harsher tone, then a leash or collar correction.

Dogs that are high in flight drive should not be corrected harshly; even a loud tone of voice is too much.

Dogs that are high in fight drive can be handled more firmly, with a deeper, more forceful tone of voice.

However, the least amount of correction is always best. Rambo is high in prey and pack drives and continuously pulls on the leash during a walk. He constantly sniffs, marks with urine, and is ready to chase cats, squirrels, or kids on bicycles. So Bob Jones teaches his pet to watch his every move by combining the "sneak-away" attention-getter and a new focus for Rambo's prey instinct. Jones carries a strip of liver (see recipe) or a squeaky toy in his pocket during the walks and gives Rambo plenty of leash for wandering. Then, when the dog's nose is to the ground, Jones turns to the right and walks briskly away.
His momentum forces Rambo to follow, and when the dog gets close, Jones rewards him by giving him a bit of the liver or tossing the toy for him to catch.

Sunny is high in pack and flight drives, so Susan Smith knows that her pet is likely to hide behind her and even urinate submissively in new situations. On their walks, Smith also carries a strip of liver, which she asks strangers to offer the dog.

The Volhard method of training is based on motivating the dog to perform, not on punishing the dog for making a mistake. The Volhards have written several books about training that are available at local bookstores and also tour the country offering their seminar. If you're interested in attending contact a local dog obedience club for more information.
Norma Bennett Woolf


Misuse of Choke Chains
by Des Hawgood
Copyright © 2000 Institute for Animal Care Education

(Note from the Editor – aah a man after my own heart – he is singing my song!)

During a recently completed Instructors Course earlier this year, I elected, as a special study, to carry out a small survey into the Misuse of Choke Chains. The preferred name of these chains in the dog-training world is Check Chains, but as they check the dog initially by choking it, I decided that for my special study I would use Choke Chain as a more apt description.

My survey extended to 51 pages on completion so the following is a shortened version containing most of the important points discovered.

My interest in this survey stemmed from my original use of Choke Chains on my own Golden Retrievers, which I soon stopped once I realized that the chain was removing hair from my dogs necks. At the same time, I had taken up agility and soon realized that I had to maintain control over my dogs by voice and encouragement alone. I was further puzzled by seeing handlers who had good verbal control over their dogs during competition and yet slipping a choke chain over their dogs necks at the end of the run.

My study was therefore to find out if there were recorded injuries to dogs caused by these chains being misused, and to gather the views of as many differing bodies as I could. I therefore contacted The Kennel Club, The National Canine Defense League, The Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (RSPCA), Veterinary Practices, Trainers, Pet Shop Outlets and Chain Manufacturers/Distributors.

After badgering The Kennel Club and the RSPCA several times I managed to establish that neither have any particular policy on the use of Choke Chains, and that both consider they are relevant pieces of training equipment, if used "by experienced handlers". (Surely, that statement in itself constitutes a policy.)

The National Canine Defense League does not use choke chains in any of their kennels and advises against their use when re-homing dogs to new owners. From 16 Veterinary Practices, I received 13 responses and seven confirmed recorded cases of injured dogs caused by choke chains. This number in the Norwich area alone would amount to hundreds on a national scale if this were the average. Add to that the ones that never are brought to the attention of a veterinarian. Almost all the Practices agreed that they would advise against the use of chains if there were confirmed cases. None recommended
their use.

Most of the trainers I contacted do not use chains but 2 recommended their use, with one recommending their use on untrained dogs. One trainer advised that they should be banned altogether after nearly losing one of his own dogs through strangulation when a choke chain locked. Only one agreed they should only be used by experienced handlers, which I personally found disturbing. Seven thought it might be a good idea to add a warning label to each chain at the point of sale.

Pet shop outlets seem more interested in the till takings but agreed they may consider displaying "warning information" about choke chains only being used by experienced handlers if injury proof existed. The two distributors I contacted apparently are not aware of any problem but one of them decided to consider adding a warning into its standard label.
My survey also brought me into contact with Robin Walker, a Veterinary and Dog Behaviourist, who had an article on this very subject printed in The Veterinary Record in March 1999 showing evidence of injury to dogs. He listed:-

õ Injured ocular vessels
õ Tracheal and oesophageal damage
õ Severely sprained necks
õ Cases of fainting
õ Transient foreleg paralysis
õ Recurrent laryngeal nerve paralysis
õ Hind leg ataxia

Radiographs showed misalignment of the cervical vertebrae and in some cases Horner's Syndrome was diagnosed. I personally suffer from this condition. The injury was caused by a suddenly, but in my case voluntary, movement of the neck which has left the nerve supply to one eye damaged, resulting in occasional pain to the eye and headaches. The injury is not visible to another person so it would not appear to show in a dog without a radiograph. Some of the conditions described above were at the time known as "Woodhouse Neck".

My Conclusions
Obviously, the most dangerous chains are the long link chains. These can lock in the tightened position if one of the links turns at 90 degrees and jams across the opening in the end ring. Secondly, all chains would appear to be dangerous if used on an untrained dog, which is most likely to pull. Further stress is then put on the dog by the chain tightening and in some cases, the dog then starts to struggle. This situation in the hands of an inexperienced handler is obviously likely to lead to injury. There are obviously also ideal situations where a chain is used correctly and the trained dog responds correctly.

However, why the necessity to use a chain on a trained dog which should be responding to voice command?

Most of the injuries must be caused before dogs ever get to training classes and before the correct guidance is given to the new owner. Therefore, if we are concerned for general dog welfare and not just for the ones in the training classes, I can see no alternative but for some legislation to be put into place. Unfortunately, the Kennel Club and the RSPCA who between them control almost the total registration and welfare of dogs is this country cannot see that their may be a problem.


THE DANGER OF NOT CLEANING UP AFTER YOUR DOG!
At Paws Abilities we nag and nag and nag, students, friends, and users of our dog park to BE VIGILANT and scoop the poop in order to keep our grounds parasite free. One of the main problems with leaving any faeces lying around is that beetles and other parasites are then free to breed in the dung which is often digested through intent or just investigation by our dogs. The result can be fatal – read below!

DANGER
Once the dog has eaten a beetle or other intermediary carrying larvae of Spirocerca lupi, the larvae are released within the dog’s stomach during the digestive process.

The larvae reach the aorta (the main artery in body) via small arteries that drain the stomach. In the main artery they mature, a process which takes about three months, after which they pass through the wall of the artery into the wall of the oesophagus

In the oesophagus wall they form a swelling, known as a granuloma, in which the worms live. As the worms grow bigger the granuloma grows bigger. This growth can result in pressure on the windpipe, pressure on the aorta and occlusion of the oesophagus.

“Where such a granuloma has formed on the oesophagus a partial blockage and/or irritation would cause breathing problems, wheezing, coughing, and the dog may vomit after eating."
A granuloma on the oesophagus would cause difficulty in breathing and swallowing.
“In long-standing cases, the granuloma can become cancerous. In such cases it can either remain in the oesophagus and become a fibrosarcoma, or spread to the long bones in the body (i.e. the tibia, femur, radius, ulna) and form an osteosarcoma, which is not easily treatable,” he points out.

If the worms have damaged the wall of the aorta (main artery), a weakening can occur that develops into an aneurism. If the damage is not too extensive, aneurisms form and months could pass before they rupture; they may also not rupture. However, in the event of extensive damage to the aorta, the aneurism could rupture or burst, causing the death of the dog within minutes due to massive bleeding.

Treatment

Unfortunately, in the majority of cases, current available treatment is usually not effective. This is because diagnosis is usually made only when clinical signs indicate the existence of a problem. By this time, the granuloma will be quite large and there is a high chance that it has already become cancerous.

There are remedies available, which are always administered and supervised by a veterinary surgeon. These are known as macrocyclic lactones; however, it must be emphasized that they should not be used on Collies or Collie crosses, which are highly intolerant of macrocyclic lactones.

Preventative Measures
“Pet owners who feed meat and chicken to their dogs should ensure that it is properly cooked, and never fed raw,” advises Prof. Boomker.

Maintenance programmes for good hygiene and cleanliness of the area where the dog is housed and exercised should always be followed. As is the case with the majority of worms, however, standard disinfection is not always effective due to the indestructible nature of both egg and larvae.

“It must be emphasized that by far the most important preventative measure is the regular removal and appropriate disposal of faeces, which is essential to minimise the chances of infection.

“Faeces should be disposed of in a manner that ensures they are not accessible to dung beetles, birds, reptiles and other intermediaries which can spread the larvae of this parasite,” advises Prof. Boomker.

SO DON’T FORGET TO CARRY PACKETS AND SCOOP THE POOP
FOR THE HEALTH OF YOUR DOG!

Clicker info by Karen. It's the theory, not the tool. Newcomers to operant training may place superstitious value on the specific tools they see others using, not realizing that it's the process, not the equipment, that counts.
Many zookeepers are now using clicker training to help their animals accept medical care, move back and forth from one cage to another, and generally fit into and enjoy their zoo lives more. While different trainers prefer different tools (or sounds, like whistles or clicks), what's important to remember is that these cues are used only as connections to the animal's actions in real time.
Cues provide information to the animal; with that information, the animal learns how to make "good stuff" happen. It's the timing and the use of information that's crucial, not one particular cue or another.
What do hippos want to hear? I remember getting a frantic e-mail a while ago from a zookeeper who was responsible for three hippopotamuses. She needed to know—right now—where to get the kind of metal whistle that makes three sounds at once: a chord, a sort of hum, and a whistle. She wanted to train her hippos to come when called, go in their cages when told, and so on, and she knew hippos would only work for that unique sound!
She knew that because she'd watched a hippo keeper at another zoo do wonders with his peculiar whistle (which he had probably bought at a garage sale, for all I know.)
Hippos, of course, will work for any bridge they can perceive. I think stamping on the floor or flashing a strobe light would work pretty well, too, whether the hippos were in or out of the water.
Strange cues Remember that it's the process, not the equipment, that counts.
Still, everywhere in the agility competition world the target for teaching dogs to stop at the end of an obstacle and put a foot in the contact zone is: the plastic lid from a margarine container. Someone, somewhere, needing a visual cue, grabbed one of those, and the rest is history.
In the dolphin world, the "jump" cue is a sideways sweep of your arm from low to high. It could be a clap or a bow, the dolphins don't care, but no, it's that sweep. In the zoo world, as operant training wends its way from keeper to keeper, there's a standard cue now for "open your mouth." What you do is put your thumb and fingers together, and then spread them wide: a mime of the lion's jaw, the hippo's maw, the gorilla's gape. And this cue has spread. All over the world, exotic animals and birds oblige by opening wide and giving the keeper a good look at the oral cavity. Any decaying teeth? Any signs of infection? Vets LOVE to get that glimpse. Open wide, guys!
In the zoo world, as operant training wends its way from keeper to keeper, there's a standard cue now for "open your mouth."
Llamas need cues, too I discovered that I myself had triggered one of these contagious superstitions. When I lived in Seattle, Ellen Leach, a behaviourist and keeper at the Woodland Park Zoo, called me looking for help with the zoo's South American exhibit. There were several llamas in this exhibit, as well as tapirs and birds.
The llamas had not been handled and the keeper wondered if clicker training could make it easier to handle them, specifically to get them in and out of the barn when necessary, not just when they felt like coming in. I was glad to help, if I could.
I went to the zoo and visited the llama barn. The llamas were quite friendly, and promptly came in from outdoors to see me out of curiosity. But they were wary, too, since they had never been tamed or trained. Targeting would help, first to get them into the barn on cue and later to station them so one could proceed to touching, haltering, foot trimming, medicating, and so on.
One adult female was very receptive to clicks and treats, so I decided to demonstrate targeting with her. I looked around the barn for some harmless but unfamiliar object to use as a target (I didn't want to use a bucket or a lead rope or something with which she might already have a bad association). I saw an empty, used brown mailing envelope lying among some other papers on the keepers' desk. I picked that up and held it out to the llama. She looked at it: click, treat. She smelled it: click, treat. After a few more clicks, she was following the target, that envelope, through the door to the outside and back inside again. Point proven.
Ellen Leach applied targeting, shaping, and the other principles of operant training to her llamas. Soon, I presume, the herd was manageable and the problem s were over—at least they weren't asking me for more help.
My own claim to fame A year or so later, there was a county fair near my house which included a llama festival, and I went for some fun. I fell into conversation with a man who'd brought some harness-trained llamas pulling two-wheeled carts, and he let me drive one around a pasture. It was just like driving one of my ponies, except there was no bit in its mouth. A light hand on the noseband was all that was required, and I have very light hands.
I hope that the manila envelope fad passed quickly, and that before they took their llamas out in public, trainers learned to replace targets with voice cues for loading or unloading.
Later, I happened to see a substantial horse trailer arrive and start unloading more llamas. Guess what? Instead of leading them off with lead lines, the handlers were leading them off with...manila envelopes. Oh my goodness. What had I done?
I hope that the manila envelope fad passed quickly, and that before they took their llamas out in public, trainers learned to replace targets with voice cues for loading or unloading. Meanwhile, if you should happen to own or be responsible for a llama or alpaca, or for that matter, a camel, you need Jim and Amy Logan's excellent series of videos on clicker training llamas. The videos offer wise and witty advice. Manila envelopes are not mentioned at all!

CHALLENGE FEEDING YOUR DOG

Ways to prevent boredom in “only” dogs!

Is your dog looking for a new challenge?
Does he have too much time on his paws and energy to spare despite your best efforts to exhaust him with long walks?

Perhaps you need to think again about his meal times.

For many dogs feeding times are the highlight of the day, but 30 seconds later the bowl is empty and he is left with nothing to look forward to. This is obviously a very unnatural situation. Wild dogs and wolves spend a large portion of time and effort acquiring food.

No one is suggesting that you stop feeding your dog and send him out to find his own dinner, but you can make getting food slightly more challenging.

The first step is to do away with the food bowl. Eating a pile of food is never going to be a challenge. Instead, try scattering dry food around the garden. Not only does this encourage your dog to use his nose, which is mentally tiring, but you will be amazed at how much energy he will expend criss-crossing the garden to ensure that he has found every
last crumb.

Try filling a plastic container with snacks and dry food. Then, as your dog nudges it around he will be rewarded with food falling out. Alternatively, suspending a similar container just above nose height will encourage aerial nudging! There are also commercial product such as the Buster® Cube which work the same way. If you really want to up the ante, stuff food into sterilised bones, or specially made toys such as a Kong®. These have an advantage as canned food can be put in as well. Once your dog gets adept at emptying his Kong®, try freezing it - that will slow him down a bit. Obviously supervise your dog when ever he is chewing toys to make sure he only eats the food and not the toy!

So why bother? Apart from prolonging your dog's mealtimes and consequently his pleasure at being fed, these are great energy-burners. Too often we try to physically exhaust our dogs with long walks without burning off any mental energy. The other advantage is that all dogs can do this, even the older ones which are no longer up to two hour walks or long games of fetch, but still need something to keep them occupied if they are not going to get depressed. Have fun feeding your dog!


Why Breed or Buy – Whilst the homeless die!



HELPING YOUR KIDS TO GET THEIR DOGS TO BEHAVE

Often a family will purchase a dog – not because they like dogs, but they want to obtain one for the kids. It is often the children who are left with the responsibility of caring and training the pet, and sorting out the behavioural problems. The following information might help give young kids some guidelines on how to deal with some basic problems.

KIDS - IS YOUR BEST FRIEND ALWAYS IN TROUBLE?
Does this look familiar? Does your dog get into trouble? Are your parents frustrated with your best friend? Do you know what to do? It's important to know that your dog is not trying to cause problems. He is just doing what comes naturally for a dog. You have to help him learn new ways to entertain himself.

UNDERSTAND YOUR DOG’S POINT OF VIEW WILL HELP YOUR DOG BEHAVE!

TRY THESE THREE SUGGESTIONS
1. Pretend to be a dog by getting down on your knees and looking around your house. What do you see? Are there things on the floor that would be interesting and fun if you were a dog? How about shoes, pencils, paper clips, clothing, slippers, etc.?

WHAT YOU SHOULD DO
Pick up all objects from the floor and put them where they belong, or put them in a closet and shut the door.

2. Look around your house. Do you see a door that is open? What is on the other side of that door? Is it a closet with lots of cool things on the floor? Or is it a bedroom with sweet-smelling socks that are easy to reach?

WHAT YOU SHOULD DO
Close all doors that could lead to trouble. The best thing to do is to close all doors except for the room that you are in. If your dog is having behaviour problems he should be supervised at all times.

3. Trash the trash. Where does your family keep the dustbin or rubbish bin? Check the kitchen, bathrooms, bedrooms, and the yard.

WHAT YOU SHOULD DO
All rubbish needs to be put away. Indoor rubbish bins should be put under sinks and in closets or cupboards. If a rubbish bin cannot be put away, it must have a lid. It's natural for your dog to want things that smell good, taste good, look good, and feel good. It doesn't matter whom it belongs to.

· Getting your dog some tempting items that are especially for dogs is a good thing to do. If he has his own things, he can be directed to them when he needs something to do.
· Toys that are smooth, furry, fuzzy, or funny can be interesting. You can throw them or hide them. You can let your dog chew on them or you can put them in the water. What else can you think of?
· Large meaty bones, plastic bones, (great as they are unbreakable can smell and feel good to your dog).
· Use various “interactive” toys when your dog is bored or when you are not home. They allow your dog to play and have fun. Examples of interactive toys are: Food Cubes. Fill them with treats and watch the fun begin! A Rugga Toy or a Kong are great fun to play with. You can throw them and it will bounce funny. However, you can also fill it with food and have fun watching your dog try to get it out. Your dog will have fun, too!
· Toys that give your dog something to do are well worth the money that they cost.

WHO'S THE BOSS?
Dogs need structure in their lives. They need rules. They want to know who the leader is. If it is not clear who the leader is, your dog will appoint himself. A dog that thinks your house is his house, needs supervision, even if he is older. It is only natural that a dog, who doesn't know the rules, will make up his own. Let your dog know what is allowed, in a clear and gentle manner.

Getting up on the table is not where dogs should be, no matter how funny it is. Jumping on the couch is only cute if you allow your dog to do that. Some people like that, some don't.

Rules must be clear to your dog. If you can't make up your mind and you let your dog on your bed sometimes, but not other times, he will be confused. Make your rules and stick to them. Everyone in the family needs to know the rules and help your dog to remember them. This is called 'being consistent'.

Being consistent means that everyone does something the same way over and over again.

If you catch your dog doing something wrong, quietly move him away from the activity by leading him by the collar, or putting a leash on him, or calling his name. Then direct him to a different activity.


Case of the Month - Training a Dog to Bite the Family Child
The Collie puppy was a male and very friendly. He was obtained at 7 weeks of age. Now 7 months old, he had "bitten" the child when she rolled on the floor and bumped into him as he lay chewing his pig's ear chewy.

From puppyhood the father and mother and 9 year old daughter taught him to Sit by rewarding him with one of the commercial tidbits. At about 6 months he was introduced to pig's ears and always had one at his disposal. He had always been 'guardy' about his food, growling when people put the food down and stood close to him.

The father noticed at about 6 months, when they reached to pet him or give him a treat, he started to raise his flews and show his upper teeth. They scolded him; and he then added a growl to his routine. (They did not appreciate that the dog was simply getting 'hand-happy,' raising his upper lip to prepare to take a
goodie.)

Using advice from a book, (Ed’s note – be careful of the advice that you read!!!) he then started evening "training" sessions in which he would offer a pig's ear, then clamp the dog's snout when he raised his flews and shout loudly, "No!" Some of these sessions lasted up to an hour. Sure enough, the dog quit the behaviour with the father.

Then one day, the child rolled into him and he swung around with a loud, mouth open "get away" growl. His teeth hit her arm. Her skin was scratched through her loosely fitting shirt and she bled. There was no bite puncture. The father grabbed the dog by the neck, dragged him to the back door and threw him down the back stairs into the yard. The dog then started holing-up under the dining room table when in the house. He growled when people approached.

The father had effectively driven the aggressive reactions to extinction with him; but, at the same time, he had "loaded' the dog for the child. The process is called 'facilitation.' When she interfered with his chew-time on the pig's ear the pent-up aggressive behaviour was released.
Successful treatment for this kind of problem depends on the owner's appreciation for the root causes and dedication to regaining the dog's trust in the father. In this case, he did appreciate his role in the problem and carried out the remedial program successfully. A veterinary examination for possible neck or throat injuries was negative.

The program involved getting rid of the pig's ears and tidbits, putting the dog on the learn-to-earn praise and petting program, building his confidence that hands were for positive petting, not snout-clamps or neck-grabs and painful trips down the back stairs.



If my dog isn’t going to heaven – I don’t want to go!



ALL ABOUT PUGS Submitted by Cheryl Gaw
õ The Pug is appropriately known as the malto in parvo, meaning there’s a lot of dog in a little body. Pugs, being of oriental origin, were once used to guard Chinese temples. They later became favorites of European royalty, eventually reaching America as a much sought after pet. If you are considering adopting a Pug, you should well acquaint yourself with the characteristics of the breed to be sure you are receiving the best possible pet for you and your life style.Pros:
õ This dog is extremely loyal. He will follow you everywhere, and will love nothing more then to sleep on your lap.
õ His sociable and intelligent nature makes him a good judge of character. He is protective and will not hesitate to defend his owner.
õ The Pug requires very little living space. As long as he’s near his owner and had lots of attention, he’s happy.
õ Pugs are very curious, and love to explore new things.
õ Pugs like something if their owner likes it. If you laugh at something they do, they will keep doing it. Because of this, it is easy to teach them simple tricks.
õ Pugs are naturally attracted to children, and once the children understand not to pull on the curly tail, they make a nice couple.Cons:
õ Pugs like to be with their owners all the time. They become depressed if left alone or left out of activities.
õ Pugs are very sensitive to extreme temperatures, especially heat. If exposed to either extreme, they will easily die. They are also extremely sensitive to bee stings, usually with fatal results.
õ Pugs have a double coat, which results in a great deal of shedding. They also snore very loudly and sneeze often.
õ They require daily cleaning. Their wrinkles can trap bacteria, which will lead to infection if not properly cared for.
õ Just as the retriever is prone to hip problems, the Pug is prone to eye problems.
õ Pug puppies are excessively hyper. They like to bite as puppies. Other dogs may become annoyed by them.
õ A Pug is not a physical dog. It cannot swim well, can’t run fast outside, etc. 8.Pugs are difficult to house-break and have frequent accidents.
Now that you know the pro’s and con’s of owning a pug you can make an informed decision about whether or not a pug is the right pet for you. If you do choose a pug, please adopt by contacting Pug Rescue.

That’s all for now folks, Until next time
Regards
Louise

“Paws Abilities”
Behaviour & Learning Centre:


(011) 969-4467 082-890-0905 louthomp@mweb.co.za
Louise Thompson: Accredited Animal Behaviourist and Professional Dog Trainer



PAWS ABILITIES - “ED’U’PAWS” IS PROUD TO ANNOUNCE
FOUR VIDEO & PRACTICAL WORKSHOPS
TO BE HELD EACH SUNDAY MORNING IN SEPTEMBER 2008

The following events are to be hosted at Paws Abilities Behaviour & Learning Centre,
Fifth Road, Cloverdene, BENONI at 9:00 AM - each Sunday in September.
BOOKING ESSENTIAL – PLACES ARE LIMITED
Cost – R50 per person. (PAYABLE IN ADVANCE)
Light refreshments will be served.

SEPTEMBER 7TH: THE LANGUAGE OF DOGS
Sarah Kalnajs
A fantastic two-hour video focusing on dog communication signals, Arousal, calming signals, distance increasing signals, distance decreasing signals, and much more. This is a “MUST SEE” for anyone who is interested in understanding their dog, and being able to read their communication signals, without misunderstandings. Also a must for anyone who works with dogs!

SEPTEMBER 14TH: FEELING OUTNUMBERED?
Patricia B McConnel (PhD)
How to manage and enjoy a multi-dog household.

SEPTEMBER 21ST: A CLICKER MORNING – PRACTICAL & THEORY
Mary Ray
This is a revolutionary training tool – Learning – the sky’s the limit! The basic’s of clicker training made easy. See the renown champion Mary Ray’s video, and then put some of it into practice with our experienced instructors!

SEPTEMBER 28TH: T TOUCH – VIDEO AND SOME PRACTICAL
Linda Tellington Jones – Watch the expert in action – This DVD is a must for anyone who wants to understand the importance of touch, the techniques can improve many aspects of a dogs life, training, behaviour, health etc. The techniques also develops an animals self-awareness of its own body.

BOOK EARLY TO AVOID DISAPPOINTMENT
Louise Telephone (011) 969-4467 or Mobile 082-890-0905
Best Regards
Louise
DIRECTIONS TO PAWS ABILITIES

Plot 72
FIFTH Road
Cloverdene
Benoni

Directions from N12 Witbank / Johannesburg highway travelling towards Witbank.
1. Take the Putfontein off ramp and turn left into Putfontein Road
2. Take the first road to your right into 3rd Avenue / Laan
3. Turn right into 5th Road / Weg
4. The school entrance is the first gate that you come to on the right hand side. There is a sign on the 6 foot pre-cast wall with a picture of a dog on it.
You will see our floodlights and clubhouse.

Directions from Rynfield, Benoni, travelling away from Benoni.
1. Get onto the Pretoria Road – past the Bunny Park
2. Turn right into Vlei Road, which is the last set of traffic lights on the Pretoria Road. There is a shopping centre on your left hand side (Rynfield Terrace) and a new wedding venue (called Royal Palms) on the right hand side.
3. Stay on Vlei Road. (going towards Crystal Park) After a 4-way stop street (the service entrance to Ebotsi golf-estate is on the right hand side) the road name changes into Cloverdene Road.
4. Turn Right into 5th Road.
5. We are the last entrance on your left hand side.
6. There is a large sign on the wall with a big picture of a dog on it (dead giveaway!) Wrought iron gates and you will be able to see our club-house (lapa) and floodlights.

Louise Thompson
Accredited Animal Behaviour Consultant & Professional Dog Trainer: Accredited with the Animal Behaviour Consultants of SA (©®™).the
Certificate of Companion Animal Behaviour (Faculty of Veterinary Science, Department of Ethology, University of Pretoria)
Certificate of Advanced Companion Animal Behaviour (Pretoria Technikon)
Services Offered by Paws Abilities!
Private, Pet Behaviour Consultations for Problem Pets
Dog Training Classes
Domestic/ Show Classes
New Fun Dog Sports
Early Puppy Education
Agility / Dog Jumping
Character & Litter Assessments
Pet Matching
Puppy & Kitten “Settling”
Preparation for a human baby, into a canine/human household
Gentle Dog Grooming
Private Dog Training
On Sale, training equip, treats, toys behaviour booklets etc
Dog Walking Service
Pet Advice
Professional House/Pet Sitting Services
No Choke Chains, No Shouting
No Punishment!

All Behaviour Modification, and Animal Training, is Undertaken WITHOUT the use of Force,
or Negative Compulsion! Only Positive Reinforcement, and Reward Based Methods are Utilised!

Member of (SAADOI) the SA Association of Dog Obedience Instructors